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Jordan onsights Carmen Picasso E8 (Read 10847 times)

dave

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#25 Re: Jordan onsights Carmen Picasso E8
March 14, 2007, 05:57:48 pm
nice to see some photos of that route. Any idea any one of his helmet stickers is a car sticker?

SA Chris

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#26 Re: Jordan onsights Carmen Picasso E8
March 15, 2007, 07:37:17 am
Very excellent ascent, but I'm not entirely sure PF are correct to report it as being the best syle yet on the route.
Flash with preplaced gear after watching someone, Versus - Flash on pre-placed gear and abseil inspection/gear test, having not watched someone.  :-\ Both pretty fine style, wouldn't like to say which was better.

Indeed. Both are fine ascents but if you wanted to get pedantic BB may just pip JB as it was graded E9 when he did it, so bit more psychy.

Either way Space Waddity all round.

SA Chris

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#27 Re: Jordan onsights Carmen Picasso E8
March 15, 2007, 07:39:09 am
nice to see some photos of that route. Any idea any one of his helmet stickers is a car sticker?

Either that, or it's stuck on the inside of a small transparent section of his helmet.

Good pics.

Johnny Brown

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#28 Re: Jordan onsights Carmen Picasso E8
March 15, 2007, 09:23:57 am
Quote
Quote
Very excellent ascent, but I'm not entirely sure PF are correct to report it as being the best syle yet on the route.
Flash with preplaced gear after watching someone, Versus - Flash on pre-placed gear and abseil inspection/gear test, having not watched someone.  Undecided Both pretty fine style, wouldn't like to say which was better.

Indeed. Both are fine ascents but if you wanted to get pedantic BB may just pip JB as it was graded E9 when he did it, so bit more psychy.

Aye, and the knowledge that it has already been onsighted makes a big difference. I'd give BB the onsight here too as he paid scant attention to Dave's sequence and then came up with a different one. Perhaps more impressive was his ascent of Eternal ten minutes earlier, after waltzing up it on the flash he then reversed it just as casually.

Not to diss Jordan's ascent though, fine effort. Ben reckoned hard E7 but then he is firmly in the  yorkshire 'less is more' school of grading.

Paz

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#29 Re: Jordan onsights Carmen Picasso E8
March 15, 2007, 07:51:13 pm
Yes, I agree the important thing's that these are basically equivalent ascents but for a smidgeon of differing beta.  I was kind of going with the converse option of calling this a flash, but you'd prefer to retro-uprate the older ascent to the same `onsight' with a pre placed wire?

Anyway, I don't know what the blinking fuss is about how it was reported here.  If JR calls an ascent onsight, then all you can say is it was a Roberts Onsight, and given the man hadn't top roped it before it was a good one at that ;-). 

Johnny Brown

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#30 Re: Jordan onsights Carmen Picasso E8
March 16, 2007, 10:27:56 am
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you'd prefer to retro-uprate the older ascent

No, that was my opinion on the day. As Joe Brown said 'the fact that we never made these claims ourselves didn't matter; others made them for us'

In general I think onsights shouldn't be so rigidly enforced. I don't think seeing a video negates the onsight, or even someone working the route. If you have a discussion about the moves and holds, then yes you only get the beta-flash. But its still a better ascent than the guys who go on routes in pairs, one of them chalking and working with the main intention of giving the other guy beta for the flash. But lets not get into a debate.

GCW

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#31 Re: Jordan onsights Carmen Picasso E8
March 16, 2007, 10:32:51 am
  But lets not get into a debate.
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