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new wall in shef (Read 175302 times)

Fiend

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#600 Re: new wall in shef
January 10, 2007, 11:03:07 am
You will be pleased to know that the blue circuit has gone to be replaced by the black circuit and I am glad to report that there were no light bulbs to be seen anywhere!! Tried a few of the problems last night and they seem pretty tasty - the exception being the mantle problem on the slab section but that is due to the fact I am as weak as a a kitten and lack the power to get off the ground on the beastly thing.

Word. How you getting on down there butters? Might be down on Thursday then, get some circuituous action going...

I reckon the blue holds are for people who like climbing on English limestone  :thumbsdown:

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#601 Re: new wall in shef
January 10, 2007, 11:31:55 am
Gave myself a serious beasting working the spotty roof problem on the far skip - nearly had it first go but failed to get the move out from the roof to the vertical section cracked and then it turned into a war of attrition but I beat the thing in the end but it has left me feeling like a skip has been dropped on me.  ;D

I think will love the black circuit BTW - Dunc will be able to tell you more about it as he was trying to do all 50 problems last night but I think they will be to your liking...

See you Thursday anyway but I might be going down tonight to see if I can do all of the spotty circuit in a visit.... should be fun or more likely the end of me.

bluebrad

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#602 Re: new wall in shef
January 10, 2007, 11:49:26 am
yay! a new circuit!

and black! thereby enabling you to stand on all footholds as viewed from above  :P

joking - can't wait to try it!!

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#603 Re: new wall in shef
January 11, 2007, 02:52:45 pm
i was at the works yesterday and the new blacks are sweet, much better than the blues. they felt much more physical than the old blues and the new red and blacks to replace the browns are also really good. Are all the circuits up for change or is the resetting spread through the year?

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#604 Re: new wall in shef
January 11, 2007, 09:39:20 pm
Redblackswirls are pimp. Nice circuit, good variety. The ones over the box roof and the arch just right are cool. Two things make this circuit good - obvious starting positions, and useful little footholds which reduces the scrabbling that marred some previous problems. Still, some "general" smears on the wall would be preferable in general.

The difficulty is a bit funny - I thought it said at the desk that the problems were ft6a to ft7a, starting easy and getting harder?? Within that spectrum, almost everything felt like ft6a apart from 10 and 37 which felt 7a, and a small few that felt in between...

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#605 Re: new wall in shef
January 11, 2007, 09:47:32 pm
God....

now i'm in the process of losing me *spastic foot* i'm gagging to get on these new circuits..... you wouldnt believe how bloody boring 5 weeks of campusing can be!!


5 ft of tape on me foot and some brufen and i'll me on this stuff on sunday :great:

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#606 Re: new wall in shef
January 11, 2007, 11:58:55 pm
I reckon the blue holds are for people who like climbing on English limestone 

nice one, the blue problems were good, the holds weren't all jugs like nearly all the other circuits with the exception of the reddy/pink efforts. anyway, english limestone is for the discerning punter, look at the harris and ru.

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#607 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 09:41:25 am
wasn't meant to be going to the works last night - but the lure of the new problems was irresistible! black and black n red seem awesome ace fun - also the fact that i've been going to the works a few weeks now means i seem to be climbing better (or deluding myself) - yay!!

black n red seem easier than the browns - or is that just me?

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#608 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 10:09:32 am
black n red seem easier than the browns - or is that just me?

Nope, definately easier, not much harder than the black. Fiends description seems right on the money, one or two tricky problems and the rest a bit trivial :(

I dont want to sound ungrateful, cos I'm really enjoying the Works,   :bow: its just that I really liked the brown circuit (how sad is that ?) and now there seems to be  a gap in the grading between red/black and pink.

Perhaps after the browns have been cleaned up they could be reapplied to fill the gap ?  :please:

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#609 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 12:18:05 pm
Can I add my positive karma for the Blues - I was a sceptic turned advocate; initially horrified by the holds and some of the problems I then discovered that yes, it was indeed a Minus Ten/Raven Tor/Rubicon combo circuit. Shiny, awkward and at times painful but ultimately quality.

Last Saturday I did all the Blues again and most of the Browns (apart from the vertical one opposite the coffee machine - nails!) which was like a full day out on the lime and the grit - I was well and truly f*cked on Sunday and had to cheat whilst chuffing on a 6a+ at MCC (although I was 20 mtrs up at the time and agreeing with Bonjoy that doing routes indoors in winter is sh*t).

Bye bye Blues and Browns - I shall miss thee!

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#610 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 12:41:38 pm
it was indeed a Minus Ten/Raven Tor/Rubicon combo circuit. Shiny, awkward and at times painful

Exactly  :thumbsdown:

P.S. The brown opposite reception, there was some trickery with the left arete and high foot I think.

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#611 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 12:46:52 pm
......I was 20 mtrs up at the time and agreeing with Bonjoy that doing routes indoors in winter is sh*t).

Agreeing with Bonjoy in my head that is... he wasn't like climbing next to me or anything like that...

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#612 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 12:53:25 pm
it was indeed a Minus Ten/Raven Tor/Rubicon combo circuit. Shiny, awkward and at times painful

Exactly  :thumbsdown:


No no no.... This type of climbing is great.  It's like having a pissed up fist fight and winning; rough sex vs making love; the left hand path; Kali vs Shiva and this thing..  :devangel:

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#613 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 02:04:23 pm
Black and red are a little easier than the brown circuit - AT THE MOMENT. Brown was piss easy when me and Ron had just set it and the holds had friction. Within a day the whole circuit was a batter-fest. I would imagine that red and black will go the same way.

All this forgranted, there are some new problems on the comp wall (as of this morning). Not a full reset cos there is a comp in a few weeks, just enough so there's some fresh stuff for you all to fall off.

New hard circuit might occur in the next week or so. Bye bye red circuit and purple circuit, and 'Hello' 50 problem Yellow circuit -grades from 7a to 7c.
There should also be a new brown circuit of 30 problems in the 6b -6c range in the next week or two.

And also a new easy circuit shortly too.

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#614 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 03:08:43 pm
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New hard circuit might occur in the next week or so. Bye bye red circuit and purple circuit, and 'Hello' 50 problem Yellow circuit -grades from 7a to 7c.
Splendid. I'd like to humbly request some really brick hard slabs on tinys and mindbendingly sequency hard roofs on the skips please.

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#615 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 03:18:51 pm
Oh, and more speed co-ordination problems like the purple opposite the reception please. That one is excellent. (yes, I know you can do it slowly too). Bring on the 2nd gen moves!

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#616 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 03:21:47 pm
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mindbendingly sequency hard roofs on the skips please.

Feet first per chance? 

I'd be up for some more hard slabs.  The orange problem with the foot swap is genius. 

I hope my intended on the comp wall hasn't gone.  I was hoping to bag it this afternoon...

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#617 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 03:57:31 pm
The orange problem with the foot swap is genius. 

...and defeated the flash attempt from legendary school room mutant, Stanage projecteer, and Font8b climber, Paul B, from what I remember. So it must be good.

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#618 Re: new wall in shef
January 12, 2007, 04:05:17 pm
ohhh the shame of it...  ;) Really good problem.

went down last night for the first time after an extended break from training and the place felt plenty hard enough, nice to see some more basic problems appearing on the comp wall and the numbering on the campus board.

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#619 Re: new wall in shef
January 13, 2007, 06:03:10 pm
Blacks are suffering a bit already, hand-holds are a bit chalky but fine, but some footholds are getting well polished with the amount of rubber on them, eeek!

Good steady circuit though with a nice variety but consistent level of difficulty (or ease, as it were). Although I only did the first half due to sore skin and general weakness. Ohhh the shame of it...

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#620 Re: new wall in shef
January 14, 2007, 09:31:22 pm
did the black circuit yesterday, didn't notice anything too smeggy on it. Felt a lot easier than red/black circuit. a nice, gentle, exceptionally well set circuit.

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#621 Re: new wall in shef
January 14, 2007, 09:56:48 pm
That's cos I was brushing every problem as I went on it!

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#622 Re: new wall in shef
January 14, 2007, 10:01:38 pm
When I left i saw you vigorously brushing problem 3 on the slab, so I climbed them in the pre-brushed state(and flashed all bar 2- medal please!). Can't believe you resorted to brushing...that's tantamount to chipping in my book. (my book is not a very sensible book).
Really didn't think they were that smeggy though, they felt delightfully clean compared to the purples.

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#623 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 10:46:03 am
Was rained off on Saturday and spent the afternoon at the works, first impressions:

when are they going to extend into the building next door,  the place was rammed!

The Holds were filthy i didn't need to use any chalk on my hands all afternoon you just had to waft them in the air to get a nice coating. More brushing peeps and less chalking up.

Agree with the comments about some small holds at ground level, some of the problems seemed to involve chest height starting foot holds!

The Illy coffe was lovely :o) more home made cakes and less chocolate bars please?

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#624 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 11:41:59 am
Purple circuit and red circuit go this Thursday. New yellow circuit appears friday. 40 problems Font 7a to 7c. To be set by me and the weasel. You have been warned........

 

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