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new wall in shef (Read 173816 times)

Nibile

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#625 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 02:22:17 pm
im getting so depressed about the climbing scene here where i live, that yersterday night i found myself planning a trip north just to climb at the works.

Bonjoy

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#626 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 03:07:40 pm
 You ever considered a long working holiday over here Nibs?

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#627 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 03:48:47 pm
you mean in the last five minutes?

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#628 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 03:51:20 pm
If you have considered it I would stronly suggest you reconsider. Given the choice of going anywhere to do some working but mainly climbing I would not come to England. There are so many bigger and better places, with good weather and vast amounts of rock... Britain might look good from Italy, but let me tell you, Italy looks VERY appealing from over here. Hell, I'd swap places with you!

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#629 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 04:28:44 pm
i really understand what you mean, but right now the thing i miss the most here is some good, psyching athmosphere.
my very good friend eric, whos the only one ive gone on a road trip with recently besides my g/f, was here for one month and is going back to nyc tomorrow, and i really thank him for being with me climbing during this month more than with his g/f that lives here...

my g/f is deep into the biggest exam of the year, and i dont want to bother her.

others? dunno.
people seem to be reluctant to change their destinations, for something new and unknown, and their habits, for thinking about climbing NOT as something you may want to do on a sunday afternoon after lunch.

i have tons of rock and boulders and projects and new lines in a few hours drive, but if im alone they have no appeal. i would like to feel part of a climbing community, more than someone whos seen as a lonesome fool.

thats why i like the peak more than font. its the athmosphere of sharing something very deeply.

SA Chris

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#630 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 04:39:51 pm
i have tons of rock and boulders and projects and new lines in a few hours drive, but if im alone they have no appeal. i would like to feel part of a climbing community, more than someone whos seen as a lonesome fool.

I know how you feel brother.

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#631 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 04:46:33 pm
If you have considered it I would stronly suggest you reconsider.

Is this the equivalent of a Christian spelling it Gdo?

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#632 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 04:47:11 pm
Nibile; If you want psyche all you have to do is buy me a plane ticket over there in march time and I guarantee psyche! I am happy to go out climbing every day and on rest days seek out amazing projects. Really, I will sacrifice the whole scene over here to be able to climb on amazing rock in the north of italy and switzerland. Besides, I'm already percieved as a lonesome fool!

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#633 Re: new wall in shef
January 15, 2007, 05:07:02 pm
 :)

Percy B

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#634 Re: new wall in shef
January 19, 2007, 05:04:01 pm
New Yellow circuit has been set - 42 problems from Font 7a to 7c. Dirtier than chimney sweeps jockstrap. You have been warned.....

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#635 Re: new wall in shef
January 19, 2007, 07:05:53 pm
New Yellow circuit has been set - 42 problems from Font 7a to 7c. Dirtier than chimney sweeps jockstrap. You have been warned.....

Is that a good thing?   :shrug:

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#636 Re: new wall in shef
January 21, 2007, 10:47:44 am
Apparently.......if you like the crimp the yellows are for you!

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#637 Re: new wall in shef
January 21, 2007, 11:24:21 am
aha  I see, maybe its time for a change of venue.

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#638 Re: new wall in shef
January 21, 2007, 08:36:37 pm
New yellow circuit is good although I initially thought you were mistaken and by crimp you meant small sloper  :shrug:, however it does have some very nice crimpy problems, some of which are basic, uncle you should like 29 very nice lock on it, most of the skip problems are basic as well. I doubt 28 will last too long, that sloper was feeling dire already. All in all, a good effort with the new circuit.

Percy, I notice you've added some more basic problems to the comp wall, is there any chance that you could put some more up after the upcoming competition, preferably without using the moon holds? they're grim. Im sure uncle would be up for helping out  :whistle:

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#639 Re: new wall in shef
January 21, 2007, 10:07:56 pm
i like the yellow problems.

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#640 Re: new wall in shef
January 21, 2007, 10:24:44 pm
the jury's out for me on the yellows. some great, others not so good, don't think its as good as the purples on the whole. also some odd starts, stuff that starts low but not low enough to be a proper sitter etc. on the plus side, i'm going to font in 3 days time.

Paul B

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#641 Re: new wall in shef
January 21, 2007, 10:34:22 pm
hmmm wasn't a fan of the purples, it featured a disproportionate amount of slopers. The start of one of the problems is really low and seems to depend on you scumming your knee across the panel.

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#642 Re: new wall in shef
January 22, 2007, 09:49:46 am
New yellow circuit is good although I initially thought you were mistaken and by crimp you meant small sloper  :shrug:, however it does have some very nice crimpy problems, some of which are basic, uncle you should like 29 very nice lock on it, most of the skip problems are basic as well. I doubt 28 will last too long, that sloper was feeling dire already. All in all, a good effort with the new circuit.

Percy, I notice you've added some more basic problems to the comp wall, is there any chance that you could put some more up after the upcoming competition, preferably without using the moon holds? they're grim. Im sure uncle would be up for helping out  :whistle:

Always! Just in case you haven't seen my credentials...


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#643 Re: new wall in shef
January 22, 2007, 11:01:24 am
 Did the 1 to 15 (except the offwidth) of the yellows yesterday. Good set of probs, particulary 4 - heinous slab on pebbles and 7 - very technical vertical thing. Looking forward to tackling the next bunch on tues.
 Paul - I'd have thought you'd be a fan of the moon grips. Ideal for basic edgey probs and ting. I rate them. The only holds I take exception to on the comp wall are the horrible blue blob holds with the funny question mark shape on. The rest of that set are ok it's just that one design.

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#644 Re: new wall in shef
January 22, 2007, 11:09:29 am
been flain around on a few yellows, real variety. Great set of problems - with the weather as it is probably the most tried set of font 7 something problems in the Uk at present! the place was rammed when i left on sunday.

still cant do all the red / black swirls mind.. there are few utter stinkers tucked away on that circuit!!

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#645 Re: new wall in shef
January 22, 2007, 12:27:07 pm
Glad the new circuit has been well received. If you don't like them - well, there are plenty of other problems to try. The Berghaus bouldering league starts this Friday at 7pm. 3 hours, 25 problems of all grades from font 3 to 7c+. And Percy's 'Special' problem - the first person to dispatch it gets £50 cash. No shit! It costs just the usual entry plus £2 for a scorecard. No scorecard - no climbing on the comp wall. Its as simple as that. See ya there.

Paul B

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#646 Re: new wall in shef
January 22, 2007, 12:27:49 pm
Paul - I'd have thought you'd be a fan of the moon grips. Ideal for basic edgey probs and ting. I rate them. The only holds I take exception to on the comp wall are the horrible blue blob holds with the funny question mark shape on. The rest of that set are ok it's just that one design.
You've got to be joking! they just hurt in all the wrong places. Have you ever spent a session on a moon board, or should I say THE moon board? your fingers will ache like buggery, and not in a good way!

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#647 Re: new wall in shef
February 01, 2007, 04:57:17 pm
Percy - any pictures from the first round of your league for us southerners (+ nibs and other non-Sheffield types) to get jealous over?

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#648 Re: new wall in shef
February 01, 2007, 05:07:24 pm
Pics on the way, as soon as I've scanned them. Some of us luddites still use film. :o

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#649 Re: new wall in shef
February 01, 2007, 09:58:44 pm
Percy, just o say quality venue and quality problems, last weekend was the first time I really enjoyed climbing indoors. Just a shame its over 200 miles round trip!

However, can we have more slopers

 

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