Women who have climbed Deliverance at Stanage

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And didn't Marc Le Menestrel do it static? Flash? On his first day on grit?

He's quite short isn't he?
 
Will Hunt said:
The crux is queueing with all the Londons. I failed to overcome this hurdle and haven't returned in the intervening 10 years.

Turn up at 5am on a week day in the middle of summer and it'll just be you and the sheep. :2thumbsup:
 
nai said:
And didn't Marc Le Menestrel do it static? Flash? On his first day on grit?

He's quite short isn't he?

No, Yes, Yes and Yes, respectively.

Marc was the first person (to my knowledge) to use the high right foot method, which is where the “static” myth comes from. This was about 97 I guess,
 
Stu Littlefair said:
nai said:
And didn't Marc Le Menestrel do it static? Flash? On his first day on grit?

He's quite short isn't he?

No, Yes, Yes and Yes, respectively.

Marc was the first person (to my knowledge) to use the high right foot method, which is where the “static” myth comes from. This was about 97 I guess,

Wasn’t this the same trip when he did Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method? IMO the most aesthetic beta?
 
Aussiegav said:
Wasn’t this the same trip when he did Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method?

Can anyone describe in more detail what this is?
 
Will Hunt said:
Aussiegav said:
Wasn’t this the same trip when he did Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method?

Can anyone describe in more detail what this is?

Toe on the rail, see Ben Moon in hard grit for a demo. Jason Myers did the FA with some wild low feet smearing on nothing, the heel beta came along at a later date.
 
remus said:
Toe on the rail, see Ben Moon in hard grit for a demo. Jason Myers did the FA with some wild low feet smearing on nothing, the heel beta came along at a later date.

Or that controversial OTE cover. I think in all honesty the heel beta came along after the over-brushing of the rail improved it to the point where a heel was feasible.

RE the OP - I'm on the short man (5 foot 6 and a bit), nearly-but-not-quite list for Deliverance. Hand my hand on the top and dropped it a couple of times. Think that ship may have sailed with my middle-aged knees and ankles now!
 
Marc was the first person (to my knowledge) to use the high right foot method, which is where the “static” myth comes from. This was about 97 I guess

Pretty sure this is how Johnny says he did it in the early neineties. Marc may have been the first to do the direct start though, and certainly the first (and probably the only) to onsight the whole problem including direct start and high foot with the only beta offered (from me) being disregarded.

Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method? IMO the most aesthetic beta?

Having done both, no way is the toe more aesthetic than the heel. It's much more powerful and has a really bunched and grotty match move. When you get the position right the heel method is one of the most beautiful moves on grit, you don't need to match or even use any of the intermediates.

I think in all honesty the heel beta came along after the over-brushing of the rail improved it to the point where a heel was feasible

Nonsense. The heel bit has barely changed since before MleM came along - I remember Sharma experimenting with the heel before it had been repeated.
 
I don't think the heel leavened placement changed on BP, the hand holds got a bit more positive post the early ascents I think.
 


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