Mostly Peak [various crags, mostly grit][57 probs, up to 8A+]

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Teaboy said:
Or is the expectation that people will know the rules and go along to kid themselves they are the first to climb the clean and brushed problems they find?

I think the expectation is that people may find this piece of rock, enjoy climbing on it (or not) and then just move on, without recourse to registering their movements. Perhaps it's stupid suggesting that just one piece of rock could potentially be left for exploration? Granted there are other bits of rock knocking around, but I can't think of another example on an established crag.

I suppose the other stand to the discussion is that Jon clearly knew of the tradition and stuck two fingers up to it in his naming of the problems. Something which could have easily been cleared up with a direct message, hey Jon?
 
I intended to document them despite the embargo, hence the names. I already made clear it was to some extent a statement about the ban and the idea that bits of crag should be treated differently based on the random diktat of guide writers. In that context why would I ask permission? It would completely undermine the point about knowledge being free and not owned and controlled by gatekeepers.
That said I've made the point and I don't wish to cause upset, so will remove the descriptions if requested.
 
Andi I know you don't always feel one of the 'in' crowd at UKB but you really don't help yourself wading in all guns blazing. The context here is that in response to Jon's original post we've recently had a very long and involved debate about whether Grinah should remain undocumented. You might like to give that a read before dismissing this as an echo chamber. Suffice to say there are a range of opinions and issues at stake, and all discussed without the same heated insults. FWIW my emotional response is often aligned with yours but I don't think blindly following tradition is ever a strong argument, particularly when the tradition is just the opinion of the local 'in' crowd thirty years previous.

I like to think I know the Roaches pretty well but I must admit I don't recall hearing about this before for the First Cloud. First thing I did was check my guides and, yes, it's all there in black or white. But I don't generally carry a guide to the Roaches and haven't for years. Such traditions are far from the norm in climbing, in fact they are a very rare reaction to them. With the increasing pressure on the boulders and the decreasing ability of boulderers to explore I think there is a debate to be had about whether some form of documentation might be better than none, whether it is done via egos being buttered or not. I agree claiming problems of a difficulty which means they are highly unlikely to be new probably isn't the way to go about it.

Good line on the fossil collecting though, oof!
 
There's a lot of talk of "bans" and "banning" here. Nothing is banned, it's just nice to leave some places undocumented.

I developed an entire crag this year (last year). It was amazing to do that, but, perhaps decades ago the climbs I did had been done before. I've no intention of recording it or documenting it. I don't get why everything has to become part of the "circuit"? Even GG managed to withhold.

The First Cloud, for as long as guidebooks have been mentioning it, has been that place where "there are a few good problems to be had" (albeit they're not that great and it's actually a bit disappointing after wading up through the bracken). I'm certainly not gatekeeping, no more than Jon is gatecrashing anyway.

As for all guns blazing and heated insults? I don't think I went that far. I think "fossil hunter" was about as insulting as I got ;)
 
Apologies, I didn't mean "selfish" as a heated insult. I simply meant it as acting in one's own self interests and disregarding the interests of others (regardless of whether they are a minority or not). :sorry:
 
AndiT said:
I developed an entire crag this year....I've no intention of recording it or documenting it.

Sorry to wade in, but this is a strange statement. If you don't document the climbs then you haven't developed the venue at all! Sounds to me like you just went climbing at a new venue and then gave nothing back to the community by sharing the place; now who's selfish?! :p

Seriously, I've a lot of respect for people like Jon, given the vast majority of my time climbing is based on their sharing the knowledge on where to go, and what to do. If we didn't have that climbing would be rather inaccessible to most people, and so if in his judgement these problems are worth sharing I trust him that it's the right thing to do.
 
I'm getting flashbacks to the Grinah Stones thread. And not good ones.

It's good to have the debate I suppose.

Well done everyone.

For what it's worth I agree with Bonjoy here.
 
Johnny Brown said:
With the increasing pressure on the boulders and the decreasing ability of boulderers to explore I think there is a debate to be had about whether some form of documentation might be better than none, whether it is done via egos being buttered or not.

I think the healthy part of all this is that our generation still has new lines in the Peak to explore and these kind of debates have been going on ever since guidebooks were first scribed. 30 odd years ago I remember certain factions of a certain guide team who would sniff and throw derisory comments about new lines on Grit, that they would claim as 'eliminate and not worth documenting along with some pretty sizable crags that were dismissed (Then they'd go and nick all the lines and write them up for themselves!) There were debates on putting boulder problems in the guides back then and we were told 'It's not proper climbing' and not to waste time trying to document so many decent finds. Times and trends change, as does the sharing of information.

Dave Gregory who was pretty good at the new routing lark, always told us to keep exploring and extoled the virtues of sharing the information of new developments with climbers. Which I suppose is at the individuals personal choice. If you go and spend ages cleaning a load of new lines, climb them and decide not to publish any of it, that's fine. But someone else most likely will eventually. It's also fine if you want to share your hard work with others on Insta and spread the footfall and word to keep them in climbable nick. I've no doubt that loads of stuff I've been cleaning and climbing has been done before 'back in the day' - but it's good to see areas like Bamford going through a bouldering renaissance and people enjoying the climbing.

I think we are going through a really decent spell for new lines and it's quite exciting that an area such as the Peak has so many secrets and plumb lines left which are steadily getting done.

I'd be intersted to hear of your new Crag Andi, but then I am a guidebook nerd :)
 
The crag is called the Wickenstones. It's about a ten minute walk from my house and lies within a small holding. It's an obvious set of rocks clearly visible from the road and ranging from 15 to 35 foot in height. Most of the crag is around vertical although the left hand side is more bulbous with an overhanging base. The gritstone ranges from a bit snappy to excellent, although it's all a bit scrittly at the top as it's effectively unused. The issue is is that lies in a patch of private land which is all clearly visible from the owners house. I spent lockdown talking regular dog walks which would take me through the owner's property (a footpath basically goes straight through his garden, it feels quite instrusive to be fair when you have to duck under their washing line to get along the path) until one day I finally met him, got chatting and managed to get permission to climb on the rocks. So, as you can imagine, that leaves me in a funny position. The best position I think is that I just leave it as it is. It's never going to get public access but that doesn't mean other people won't get to climb on it in the future, the owner is really lovely person, but you certainly wouldn't want to take advantage of that. If that makes sense?
 
AndiT said:
The crag is called the Wickenstones.

Is this different to Garden Buttress of the The Wicken Stones described in the Roaches guide?

PS is Miriam Farm Rocks / ERF rocks still a no go?
 
AndiT said:
If that makes sense?

Yep it does thanks Andi, glad you gained access in the end and had decent experience with it all

There was a discussion way back in 2007 when it was discussed by the BMC and folk on the other channel too...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/crag_access/erf_rocks_access-237930
 
Andi do I remeber something about some climbing on a sensitive crag, an angry farmer and Justin Critchlow flying a kite or something?
 
Is this it… https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=862

Comment from a couple of years ago
 
No, this is a crag which lies between "Garden Buttress" (which can still be accessed if you ask the owner) and Miriam Farm Rocks (AKA ERF Rocks) which used to be an ok, but now you'll be asked to leave.... it's on my agenda to try and remedy this.

Grimer, you're confusing a few stories there but you've got the general gist: There was no crag, there was a kite being flown and there was an angry farmer with his mates dipping sheep up the road. "what the bloody hell are you doing on my land!", Justin (flying a kite): "playing cricket, what does it look like?"
 
steveri said:
Is this it… https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=862

Comment from a couple of years ago
That was my comment, I didn't go again so didn't follow it up. Still waiting for Andi T to sort it out.... Titan is still on my lifetime wishlist.
 
Ah, apols for poor quality research, should have checked grid ref. Always grateful to anyone doing careful diplomacy.
 
No apologies needed.

Leave it to me. I'll make a definite point of visiting and seeing what I can arrange. It was the very first case I was given by Dave Bishop (legend!) many years ago and now I'm living so near I really want to fix some sort of access and do it in a fair and amicable way.

As to the original thread, I would like to apologise to Jon for being so haughty and I hope there're no hard feelings and I'll explain my outburst in person when I next meet you. Sorry x
 

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