Here’s a bunch of new things I’ve done since the last update. There’s a few of other people’s things in there too, e.g. where they’re part of the same development, or on the same block. The starring is conservative, they’re pretty much all decent, if I do say so myself.
Harland Edge – Distant Boulder
Hard Yards 7A+ - Sit start up Weather Front and trav low left to finish around the arete. A good techy fingery trav on perfect rock.
Duke’s Seat
Hawk Kestrel Manoeuvres in the Park 6C+
Lefthand start to Peregrination, start with LH on low undercut gain the arete/lip at (but not before) where it juts out. A bit arbitrary, but worth it for the tortured pun I thought.
Kestrel Kingdom 6C
A more direct/RH sit start to Peregrination
Private Prow RH 6C+
Start on the block on the right and gain the prow by an interesting sideways move and cutloose. Novel!
Wharncliffe – near My Condition
Below and right/SE of My Condition is an overhanging block stack.
Ripperoni Pepperoni 6B+
Sit start on the left arete and climb up until a rock round onto the slab can be made.
Stakka Bo 6B+
Sit start on jams in the middle of the stack and climb direct to the apex.
Stanage Plantation
Downhill below the Pebble, almost at the fence, near a marshy area. In the same cluster Crispin fairly recently added some new probs.
Vibin’ in the Ritz Car 7A+
From sitting on the far right, a right to left slopey trav of the mini Cowper Stone type boulder. Tops out at an angle change at the end of the steepness.
Bamford – Salmon boulders and beyond
Simon Jacques has also added a load of good easier probs around these boulders and further left and is I think recording in a PDF topo.
* Chinook 8A
The wall left of Something Silly from a sit start. Excellent if a bit reachy. FA Ned Feehally
Tsumen 6B+
The back left arete of the Something Silly block via a hanging flake, from a sit start.
Quinnat 7A
The wall left of Tsumen from sitting.
Sockeye 6C+
Below and left/NW of Something Silly is a sharp steep arete/prow. Climb this direct from a sit start.
Steelhead 7A
On the block immediately behind Sockeye. Sit start into a mantel onto the green slab.
Roughed Up 6B+
On the crag above the last couple of problems is a wall with a low roof/cave. Sit start in the break at the back, gain the lip and exit up the wall. No side wall.
Rough N Tumble 6C+
As for Roughed Up, then continue via the lip to climb the left arete.
The breaky buttress/wall just right of this block has some good warm-ups in the 4-6A+ range.
* Pog Champ 7A+
50m left of the Something Silly etc across a vague scoop/gully. Where a ruined wall meets the edge. Top notch steep compression prow from sitting. Not huge but packs a punch.
Poggers 7A+
The right arete of Pog Champ from sitting. Extreme toe hooking.
* Klem Fandango 7A (6C from stand)
10m left of the ruined wall. Climb the steep highish arete from a sit start.
* Hello Steven 7B
The wall right of Klem Fandango has a hard start and a steep finish. I climbed this with a cop out finish (7A+) into KF at the top, Jim Pope added the logical direct finish.
Rough Diamond 6B
20m downhill and 20m left of the ruined wall is a diamond shaped steep slab. Climb the prowy left arete of this from a low sit start.
Xenolith 6B
Climb the right side of Rough Diamond from standing.
Carats for Power 7B+
The centre of the slab/wall climbed dynamically rightwards. FA Ned Feehally
Zirconia 7C
Right arete of the face from sitting. Short and powerful.
Sturgeon 6C
Back up on the crag and a further 25m left is a sharp vertical arete. Climb the right side of this from standing.
Burbage South
Peaking Duck 6B+
Just right of Definitive 5.11 is a decent but hemmed in double arete prow. Climb this from a sit start.
Quack Pipe 7B
Starting from the end of the D5.11 crack, without the low plinth, climb the lip/prow rightwards all the way onto the back face of the block and a rockover onto the green slab. Fairly bizarre upside down toe-hooking fun.
Froggatt
Love Thy Kneebar 7A+
Below road level, 20m beneath the white gate near the main parking is a small undercut prow. Sit start under the roof, climb the arete/prow.
* Burt Backaround 7B
On the roadside rocks, 20m or so right of Isla Grace is a buttress with two obvious highball aretes. This is the central/left one, with hard moves above the low roof and easier climbing above.
** Elephants Gerald 7A+
The right arete. Start on the left/front side up the smooth arete, then switch sides at the flake and finish up the right side. Really brilliant (except for the cars).
* Lionel Reachy 7C
A further 20m down the road is another striking highball arete. Climb this on it’s right side above a branch patio (get to it while it lasts!). FA Ned Feehally
Renegade Pastor SS 7C+
On the Renegade Master buttress. As per the name. Some tricky setup moves into the original one move 7C. Wouldn’t surprise me if this settled out at 8A. FA Ned Feehally
* Egg Dance 7B+
The right arete of Ladies Wall from a sit start. Remarkably good for such an obvious unclimbed line. 7A from standing. FA Ned Feehally.
* Smiling Moon 7A+
25m below and right/south of Grands Doigts is a block with a crescent moon shaped ramp on the left side. Sit start on the ramp and climb up rightwards to a pocket on the arete and a juggy finish.
Lunar Lander 6C
The blunt central arete of the Smiling Moon block via slopey campussing.
Waxing Cresent 8A+
The right sidewall of the Smiling Moon block from sitting, on nano-hoists. FA Ned Feehally
Kogepan 7A+
This is one from ages ago that I forgot to record in a previous update. On the Stottie boulder, climb the steep face just right of centre. Not to be confused with an easier line above a bad landing a metre of so to the left.
Powdered Toast Man 7B+
Kind of a RH version of Kogepan. Climb the wall between Kogepan and the arete (high left foot rockover). FA Ned Feehally
<Jim’s Arete, don’t know the actual name> 7B
The left arete of the Pig heart Boy wall. FA Jim Pope
* Murder of Crows 7A
From the start position of Pig Heart Boy undercut right until a reach/launch for the ledge is possible. Finish up easy but prickly ground.
Cast Away 7A
May or may not share ground with the mysterious old line Cast Off. From the ground climb the wall and flakes left of Leggit. Great climbing but bring a spotter for the block behind.
* Beaunus Material 7B
As mentioned on the Rainbeau thread. Climb the low start to Rambeau into a steep RH finish staying on the underside of the prow. No harder (possibly easier) than standard Rambeau but quite different in style and very good. FA Ned Feehally
Curbar
* Fridge Magnate 7A+
Down and right/south of The Art of White Hat Wearing is an overhanging fridge type big block reminiscent of the Ultimate Gritstone Experience. Climb the prow of this front on from sitting.
Vittorio Bertazzoni 7A
The left arete of the prow.
Fridgeface 7A
The left wall of the block, with a tricky pull on
Gumotex 6C
The left arete of the crack/chimney left of Kayak, from a sit start.
Higgar
As mentioned on the other thread (apologies again for the retro-claim).
By Jupiter 6C
The left side of the scoop left of Jupiter’s Slab. Climbed from sitting on the ledge.
Jupiter’s Scoop 7A
The scoop direct i.e. without the shield/flake out right on Jupiter’s Slab.
Smallfield Roof
Fouganza 7B
Climb the main roof left to right without the low shelf to finish up the rh sidewall. FA Ned Feehally
Cratcliffe
Samantha Muesli 7B?
Supposedly E3 6a right of Invasion of the Cider Women. Given the grade disparity I reckon the original stepped in off the arete. Reclimbed by Adam Long via a direct start, grade is a guess, I didn’t get up it.
Gnomic Aphorisms 6C?
Highball arete right of Samantha Muesli.
FA Adam Long, though may actually be the line of SM which was put up by Paul Mitchell.
Roaches, Five Clouds Cloud Nein 7A -At the very far RH end of the Five Clouds is a head height roof. Start on the juggy break on the right of the roof, climb the lip left to a tricky rock/mantel around the left side of the arete.
No Claims Bonus 7A - Start on the left side of the same roof and follow the lip right, to finish up the right side of the arete. No footblock out right.
Gradbach Hill
* Monkey on My Bach 7A
On the buttress left of Phantom. The right arete/prow of the Hour Glass wall. A good huggy prow from a sit start.
Blackwell Dale – Hunky Roof
Hunk Life 7A+
This is the cave above Sean’s Roof, with some short sport routes on it. Big moves gain the hanging groove on the left side of the steepness.
The A6 Wave
Ride the Mild Surf 7A+
Right to left traverse on the left side of the crag. Start at jugs on bad Thumb, follow break and crimps leftwards all the way to the easy exit groove.
* Wave Mechanics 7C+
Sit start in the back of the roof left of Dan’s Groove. Cross the roof direct then go right to finish up Ned/James’ Problem. The tall can lank past the initial crux which drops a grade or two.
Mechanical Dan 7B+
The start of Waves Mechanics, then finish up Dan’s Groove.
Yorkshire - Snowden Crags
Guten Tag Frau Griggs 7B+
Below the Brock Block and right of the Skull Wall boulder is a vertical wall with a crack in it.
An eliminate line with good moves. Start right of the crack on the big sidepull and a pebble, climb direct via a thin sidepull and slopey arete. Avoids the slopey edges and other holds out right at this grade.
* Fewston, We Have a Problem 7A+
Sit start to JCB, climbing direct into the original via the overhanging scoop.
NOTE: Some of the best things have been up at Grinah Stone where we did some cracking stuff which probably hasn’t been done before as they required cleaning by abseil. I’d love to be able to share these and to encourage more traffic, but I’ll stick by the agreed no documentation thing. FWIW I think this rule is well past it’s use by date. There are so many hurdles to put people off going to this place that even people ‘in the know’ rarely actually make it up. I really think the place would still be extremely quiet if written up, people would just get more and better climbing done when they were there. If anyone wants info on stuff I know about up there by all means PM me.
Some images:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXyahu3IJaF/
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXyeFPpIJXp/
Harland Edge – Distant Boulder
Hard Yards 7A+ - Sit start up Weather Front and trav low left to finish around the arete. A good techy fingery trav on perfect rock.
Duke’s Seat
Hawk Kestrel Manoeuvres in the Park 6C+
Lefthand start to Peregrination, start with LH on low undercut gain the arete/lip at (but not before) where it juts out. A bit arbitrary, but worth it for the tortured pun I thought.
Kestrel Kingdom 6C
A more direct/RH sit start to Peregrination
Private Prow RH 6C+
Start on the block on the right and gain the prow by an interesting sideways move and cutloose. Novel!
Wharncliffe – near My Condition
Below and right/SE of My Condition is an overhanging block stack.
Ripperoni Pepperoni 6B+
Sit start on the left arete and climb up until a rock round onto the slab can be made.
Stakka Bo 6B+
Sit start on jams in the middle of the stack and climb direct to the apex.
Stanage Plantation
Downhill below the Pebble, almost at the fence, near a marshy area. In the same cluster Crispin fairly recently added some new probs.
Vibin’ in the Ritz Car 7A+
From sitting on the far right, a right to left slopey trav of the mini Cowper Stone type boulder. Tops out at an angle change at the end of the steepness.
Bamford – Salmon boulders and beyond
Simon Jacques has also added a load of good easier probs around these boulders and further left and is I think recording in a PDF topo.
* Chinook 8A
The wall left of Something Silly from a sit start. Excellent if a bit reachy. FA Ned Feehally
Tsumen 6B+
The back left arete of the Something Silly block via a hanging flake, from a sit start.
Quinnat 7A
The wall left of Tsumen from sitting.
Sockeye 6C+
Below and left/NW of Something Silly is a sharp steep arete/prow. Climb this direct from a sit start.
Steelhead 7A
On the block immediately behind Sockeye. Sit start into a mantel onto the green slab.
Roughed Up 6B+
On the crag above the last couple of problems is a wall with a low roof/cave. Sit start in the break at the back, gain the lip and exit up the wall. No side wall.
Rough N Tumble 6C+
As for Roughed Up, then continue via the lip to climb the left arete.
The breaky buttress/wall just right of this block has some good warm-ups in the 4-6A+ range.
* Pog Champ 7A+
50m left of the Something Silly etc across a vague scoop/gully. Where a ruined wall meets the edge. Top notch steep compression prow from sitting. Not huge but packs a punch.
Poggers 7A+
The right arete of Pog Champ from sitting. Extreme toe hooking.
* Klem Fandango 7A (6C from stand)
10m left of the ruined wall. Climb the steep highish arete from a sit start.
* Hello Steven 7B
The wall right of Klem Fandango has a hard start and a steep finish. I climbed this with a cop out finish (7A+) into KF at the top, Jim Pope added the logical direct finish.
Rough Diamond 6B
20m downhill and 20m left of the ruined wall is a diamond shaped steep slab. Climb the prowy left arete of this from a low sit start.
Xenolith 6B
Climb the right side of Rough Diamond from standing.
Carats for Power 7B+
The centre of the slab/wall climbed dynamically rightwards. FA Ned Feehally
Zirconia 7C
Right arete of the face from sitting. Short and powerful.
Sturgeon 6C
Back up on the crag and a further 25m left is a sharp vertical arete. Climb the right side of this from standing.
Burbage South
Peaking Duck 6B+
Just right of Definitive 5.11 is a decent but hemmed in double arete prow. Climb this from a sit start.
Quack Pipe 7B
Starting from the end of the D5.11 crack, without the low plinth, climb the lip/prow rightwards all the way onto the back face of the block and a rockover onto the green slab. Fairly bizarre upside down toe-hooking fun.
Froggatt
Love Thy Kneebar 7A+
Below road level, 20m beneath the white gate near the main parking is a small undercut prow. Sit start under the roof, climb the arete/prow.
* Burt Backaround 7B
On the roadside rocks, 20m or so right of Isla Grace is a buttress with two obvious highball aretes. This is the central/left one, with hard moves above the low roof and easier climbing above.
** Elephants Gerald 7A+
The right arete. Start on the left/front side up the smooth arete, then switch sides at the flake and finish up the right side. Really brilliant (except for the cars).
* Lionel Reachy 7C
A further 20m down the road is another striking highball arete. Climb this on it’s right side above a branch patio (get to it while it lasts!). FA Ned Feehally
Renegade Pastor SS 7C+
On the Renegade Master buttress. As per the name. Some tricky setup moves into the original one move 7C. Wouldn’t surprise me if this settled out at 8A. FA Ned Feehally
* Egg Dance 7B+
The right arete of Ladies Wall from a sit start. Remarkably good for such an obvious unclimbed line. 7A from standing. FA Ned Feehally.
* Smiling Moon 7A+
25m below and right/south of Grands Doigts is a block with a crescent moon shaped ramp on the left side. Sit start on the ramp and climb up rightwards to a pocket on the arete and a juggy finish.
Lunar Lander 6C
The blunt central arete of the Smiling Moon block via slopey campussing.
Waxing Cresent 8A+
The right sidewall of the Smiling Moon block from sitting, on nano-hoists. FA Ned Feehally
Kogepan 7A+
This is one from ages ago that I forgot to record in a previous update. On the Stottie boulder, climb the steep face just right of centre. Not to be confused with an easier line above a bad landing a metre of so to the left.
Powdered Toast Man 7B+
Kind of a RH version of Kogepan. Climb the wall between Kogepan and the arete (high left foot rockover). FA Ned Feehally
<Jim’s Arete, don’t know the actual name> 7B
The left arete of the Pig heart Boy wall. FA Jim Pope
* Murder of Crows 7A
From the start position of Pig Heart Boy undercut right until a reach/launch for the ledge is possible. Finish up easy but prickly ground.
Cast Away 7A
May or may not share ground with the mysterious old line Cast Off. From the ground climb the wall and flakes left of Leggit. Great climbing but bring a spotter for the block behind.
* Beaunus Material 7B
As mentioned on the Rainbeau thread. Climb the low start to Rambeau into a steep RH finish staying on the underside of the prow. No harder (possibly easier) than standard Rambeau but quite different in style and very good. FA Ned Feehally
Curbar
* Fridge Magnate 7A+
Down and right/south of The Art of White Hat Wearing is an overhanging fridge type big block reminiscent of the Ultimate Gritstone Experience. Climb the prow of this front on from sitting.
Vittorio Bertazzoni 7A
The left arete of the prow.
Fridgeface 7A
The left wall of the block, with a tricky pull on
Gumotex 6C
The left arete of the crack/chimney left of Kayak, from a sit start.
Higgar
As mentioned on the other thread (apologies again for the retro-claim).
By Jupiter 6C
The left side of the scoop left of Jupiter’s Slab. Climbed from sitting on the ledge.
Jupiter’s Scoop 7A
The scoop direct i.e. without the shield/flake out right on Jupiter’s Slab.
Smallfield Roof
Fouganza 7B
Climb the main roof left to right without the low shelf to finish up the rh sidewall. FA Ned Feehally
Cratcliffe
Samantha Muesli 7B?
Supposedly E3 6a right of Invasion of the Cider Women. Given the grade disparity I reckon the original stepped in off the arete. Reclimbed by Adam Long via a direct start, grade is a guess, I didn’t get up it.
Gnomic Aphorisms 6C?
Highball arete right of Samantha Muesli.
FA Adam Long, though may actually be the line of SM which was put up by Paul Mitchell.
Roaches, Five Clouds Cloud Nein 7A -At the very far RH end of the Five Clouds is a head height roof. Start on the juggy break on the right of the roof, climb the lip left to a tricky rock/mantel around the left side of the arete.
No Claims Bonus 7A - Start on the left side of the same roof and follow the lip right, to finish up the right side of the arete. No footblock out right.
Gradbach Hill
* Monkey on My Bach 7A
On the buttress left of Phantom. The right arete/prow of the Hour Glass wall. A good huggy prow from a sit start.
Blackwell Dale – Hunky Roof
Hunk Life 7A+
This is the cave above Sean’s Roof, with some short sport routes on it. Big moves gain the hanging groove on the left side of the steepness.
The A6 Wave
Ride the Mild Surf 7A+
Right to left traverse on the left side of the crag. Start at jugs on bad Thumb, follow break and crimps leftwards all the way to the easy exit groove.
* Wave Mechanics 7C+
Sit start in the back of the roof left of Dan’s Groove. Cross the roof direct then go right to finish up Ned/James’ Problem. The tall can lank past the initial crux which drops a grade or two.
Mechanical Dan 7B+
The start of Waves Mechanics, then finish up Dan’s Groove.
Yorkshire - Snowden Crags
Guten Tag Frau Griggs 7B+
Below the Brock Block and right of the Skull Wall boulder is a vertical wall with a crack in it.
An eliminate line with good moves. Start right of the crack on the big sidepull and a pebble, climb direct via a thin sidepull and slopey arete. Avoids the slopey edges and other holds out right at this grade.
* Fewston, We Have a Problem 7A+
Sit start to JCB, climbing direct into the original via the overhanging scoop.
NOTE: Some of the best things have been up at Grinah Stone where we did some cracking stuff which probably hasn’t been done before as they required cleaning by abseil. I’d love to be able to share these and to encourage more traffic, but I’ll stick by the agreed no documentation thing. FWIW I think this rule is well past it’s use by date. There are so many hurdles to put people off going to this place that even people ‘in the know’ rarely actually make it up. I really think the place would still be extremely quiet if written up, people would just get more and better climbing done when they were there. If anyone wants info on stuff I know about up there by all means PM me.
Some images:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXyahu3IJaF/
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXyeFPpIJXp/
hmy: bloody hell. That's, ummm....something, even by your standards.
