This morning I was changing a lightbulb and rather annoyingly one of the wires snapped whilst I was removing.I spent over an hour getting more and more frustrated trying to get the little wire out of the socket with various pliers and scissors etc.I eventually found some tweezers and the wire came out in less than a second...
Did John Dunne use a kneebar to clip the chains on Austrian Oak when he did the first ascent?
Quote from: Will Hunt on December 24, 2020, 03:09:10 pmDid John Dunne use a kneebar to clip the chains on Austrian Oak when he did the first ascent?He may have done. The belay was up and left before and I gather people did use a kneebar to clip it. Steve Dunning put in the current belay and it was far harder to clip (some dropped the redpoint here) than before until I discovered an unobvious but solid kneebar comfortable enough to be used wearing shorts so no kneed for kneepad.Kneebars are not a recent invention. Mass produced kneepads with sticky rubber are and provide frictional as well as pain reducing advantages. The issues raised pertain primarily to use of kneepads to make moves easier and provide rests which werenít possible before.
What happened to those cricketers who got found out tampering with the ball???
if they make something easier you should be honest and say so
Iím old school enough to think that bouldering should be done with an approved sequence
Bouldering is so arbitrary anyway that rules should exist.
Megos isnít saying they shouldnít be used heís just saying if they make something easier you should be honest and say so which seems fair to me.
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