UKBouldering.com

Topic slit Hubble with kneepad (Read 29620 times)

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2756
  • Karma: +153/-8
#275 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 14, 2020, 08:05:59 pm
So good! I want that on a t-shirt

When’s your birthday?

Rob F

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 208
  • Karma: +17/-0
#276 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 14, 2020, 08:48:32 pm
Agreed, that's my number one Xmas present 😀

rjtrials

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 51
  • Karma: +1/-4
#277 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 15, 2020, 12:00:02 pm
I'll definitely buy a couple!

tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 854
  • Karma: +73/-1
#278 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 15, 2020, 07:27:50 pm
Great link, for anyone that's interested:

https://elanguageworld.com/perks-of-being-multilingual/
Ich stimme Dir vollkommen zu. Tu as tout à fait raison.

bigironhorse

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 768
  • Karma: +16/-0
    • YouTube

AMorris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 364
  • Karma: +53/-0
  • Trying to find form

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20457
  • Karma: +635/-11
#281 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 29, 2020, 06:28:35 pm
That’s nearly as bad as crack climbing shenanigans 😀

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8030
  • Karma: +574/-16
  • insect overlord #1
#282 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 04:05:13 pm
Quote from: teestub link=topic=30919.msg619611#msg619611
did Megos use a pad, or is he in fact an ethical thought leader?!

I believe he is

My love for Megos grows  :wub:

Quote from: Alex Megos link==https://www.instagram.com/p/CJJHEj5hsoP/
After doing Dreamtime, I set my sights on the famous @dave_graham_ test piece "The Story of Two Worlds" on the other side of the boulder. There are various videos online from lots of different climbers, all theoretically climbing the same boulder and claiming the same grade- 8C. It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning HOW things are climbed. This issue was recently brought to my attention after the discussion about @yannick_flohe 's "dab" on Dreamtime. Climbing and especially bouldering is all about the HOW. Even more surprising though was the fact that people don't really seem to care too much about the HOW, although it is supposed to be the most important part of climbing/bouldering in some people's eyes.
After watching all those videos of "The Story of two Worlds", I noticed there are huge differences. Some use a kneepad, although the FA was done without. Most sit down to start, some don't. One climber (@dai_koyamada) started lower than all the others and didn't use a kneepad. And in the end they all climbed the same 8C? That thought seems very alienating to me.
Yes, climbing is a funny sport and it's not only about getting to the top. It's HOW you get to the top. I would wish for more awareness within the climbing community, that there are differences in ethics, styles and grades. We, as climbers, should be more open about it and communicate HOW we have done certain climbs. Ticking a grade shouldn't be the most important part of climbing. Climbing is so much more than that.
There are differences in HOW things get climbed and we should acknowledge those.
Glad I managed an ascent of "The Story of two Worlds" on my last day. I valued climbing it without a kneepad and I did (barely). I'd say 8C seems about right.

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4885
  • Karma: +507/-27
#283 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 04:13:37 pm
This is him preparing the terrain for for Ondra's eventual padded ascent of Perfecto Mundo... #rubberbeef

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3601
  • Karma: +279/-23
#284 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 04:41:30 pm
Quote from: Alex Megos link==https://www.instagram.com/p/CJJHEj5hsoP/
One climber (@dai_koyamada) started lower than all the others and didn't use a kneepad. And in the end they all climbed the same 8C?

Well technically Dai did TSOTW low start, so explicitly not the same 8C, but don't let factual accuracy get in the way of things

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1493
  • Karma: +150/-3
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#285 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 06:03:02 pm
Quote from: teestub link=topic=30919.msg619611#msg619611
did Megos use a pad, or is he in fact an ethical thought leader?!

I believe he is

My love for Megos grows  :wub:

Quote from: Alex Megos link==https://www.instagram.com/p/CJJHEj5hsoP/
After doing Dreamtime, I set my sights on the famous @dave_graham_ test piece "The Story of Two Worlds" on the other side of the boulder. There are various videos online from lots of different climbers, all theoretically climbing the same boulder and claiming the same grade- 8C. It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning HOW things are climbed. This issue was recently brought to my attention after the discussion about @yannick_flohe 's "dab" on Dreamtime. Climbing and especially bouldering is all about the HOW. Even more surprising though was the fact that people don't really seem to care too much about the HOW, although it is supposed to be the most important part of climbing/bouldering in some people's eyes.
After watching all those videos of "The Story of two Worlds", I noticed there are huge differences. Some use a kneepad, although the FA was done without. Most sit down to start, some don't. One climber (@dai_koyamada) started lower than all the others and didn't use a kneepad. And in the end they all climbed the same 8C? That thought seems very alienating to me.
Yes, climbing is a funny sport and it's not only about getting to the top. It's HOW you get to the top. I would wish for more awareness within the climbing community, that there are differences in ethics, styles and grades. We, as climbers, should be more open about it and communicate HOW we have done certain climbs. Ticking a grade shouldn't be the most important part of climbing. Climbing is so much more than that.
There are differences in HOW things get climbed and we should acknowledge those.
Glad I managed an ascent of "The Story of two Worlds" on my last day. I valued climbing it without a kneepad and I did (barely). I'd say 8C seems about right.

I think that's worth a Wad. What's his avatar/profile? Doesn't seem to post here much. Is he worthy?

 ;D  ;D

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1493
  • Karma: +150/-3
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#286 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 06:07:46 pm
Quote from: Alex Megos link==https://www.instagram.com/p/CJJHEj5hsoP/
One climber (@dai_koyamada) started lower than all the others and didn't use a kneepad. And in the end they all climbed the same 8C?

Well technically Dai did TSOTW low start, so explicitly not the same 8C, but don't let factual accuracy get in the way of things

And please don't use one error, to misrepresent the whole.

I'm sure Mr Megos would welcome your correction, in the spirit of "factual accuracy".

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6653
  • Karma: +419/-7
#287 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 06:53:04 pm
This is him preparing the terrain for for Ondra's eventual padded ascent of Perfecto Mundo... #rubberbeef

Defo a dig.

TSOTW is appropriately the arse of Dreamtime.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1842
  • Karma: +137/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#288 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 08:00:37 pm
Megos’s post seemed to start by being an attempt to justify his mate dabbing on Dreamtime then moved onto knee beef.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 6950
  • Karma: +505/-95
    • Unknown Stones
#289 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 09:28:02 pm
Megos’s post seemed to start by being an attempt to justify his mate dabbing on Dreamtime then moved onto knee beef.

I was curious about this so looked up the dab in question. I know we like to have a laugh on the Bring Out Your Dabs thread, but surely we haven't sunk so low as to say that this is not a valid ascent?

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CI0_u6joprP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1842
  • Karma: +137/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#290 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 09:47:25 pm
but surely we haven't sunk so low as to say that this is not a valid ascent?

How hard are you allowed to kick a tree (or brush a pad) before it invalidates an ascent?!

AMorris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 364
  • Karma: +53/-0
  • Trying to find form
#291 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 09:51:52 pm
what an amazing bit of footage that is though, get a really nice look at the holds on it

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2756
  • Karma: +153/-8
#292 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 10:00:44 pm
Good find, Will. If you read the comments  ‘SwizzyBouldering’ I.e. Martin Keller, goes for the jugular on this chap (Megos’ trip buddy) for touching the tree ( :blink:), even talking about the ‘how’ of bouldering. In light of this, the Megos post is just a retort rather than an ethical line in the sand. I’ll bet a non-alcoholic beverage that Martin was a recent ascentionist of TSOTW...

The Frankenjura is bad for people sniping at each other I heard so Megos will be well practised in these online bun-fights - good for goss.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 6950
  • Karma: +505/-95
    • Unknown Stones
#293 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 10:28:24 pm
but surely we haven't sunk so low as to say that this is not a valid ascent?

How hard are you allowed to kick a tree (or brush a pad) before it invalidates an ascent?!

Not sure exactly where you'd draw the line, but I'd guess that brushing a tree while moving your leg upwards and hanging off the top of a boulder making conversation with your entourage is comfortably far enough away from where that line should be.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1842
  • Karma: +137/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#294 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 23, 2020, 10:57:39 pm
He wasn’t even on top of the boulder, his foot came off again after that! Once you decide you’re ok with dabs then it’s just a matter of negotiation what’s ok and what isn’t.

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1493
  • Karma: +150/-3
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#295 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 24, 2020, 03:03:59 am
I fess up. I used the tree on Suicide Wall. Thankfully the old one below Indecent isn't there anymore, and the old bent Elder has been removed from Out of my tree.

Are trees "in" these days? Is it possible to use the tree to climb Dreamtime? If you can say "the tree is in", there's no dab. Is it easier?

What about other shrubs? Grass; lichen?

That said, if I'd noticed, I'd be gutted  ;)  :lol: Back around.

(.. trying to think of problems with trees, heathery top-outs etc. I think I'd quite easily differentiate between trees and pads in most cases.)
« Last Edit: December 24, 2020, 03:09:00 am by DAVETHOMAS90 »

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1575
  • Karma: +89/-3
#296 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 24, 2020, 07:39:22 am
I’ll bet a non-alcoholic beverage that Martin was a recent ascentionist of TSOTW...

10 points...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuePYCBhvHp/?igshid=1sujil5eksonv

After (as always seems the case for him) a decades long battle with it.

If you look through his insta there are quite a few posts from him calling people out for things like inattentive parking, stashing pads in a bad/obvious way, etc., etc. Which I think is rather a good thing to do! Especially as it sounds like the guy who dabbed on Dreamtime is basically a strong indoor climber, who's been outside about 3 times, hasn't a clue about ethics, yet is instantly strong enough to be doing these hard things.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 11839
  • Karma: +561/-64
  • Whut
#297 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 24, 2020, 10:19:01 am
WoodFT, is that a over-caffeinated sugary non-alcoholic beverage??  ;)


Helps to wash down all that tasty beef ofc...

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 11839
  • Karma: +561/-64
  • Whut
#298 Dab
December 24, 2020, 11:03:46 am
About that dab.... Quite hard to tell as it's a grainy, near pitch dark video that one can't slo-mo down, but...

Can't hear any sound
No change in movement of the leg whatsoever
Even if it was a proper dab, it would have inhibited his movement and made it harder not easier.

I call "bark-scuffing dab so minor that it's fine within the spirit of the law".

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4898
  • Karma: +192/-3
#299 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
December 24, 2020, 11:07:30 am
I'd def be happier with that than adding a sit start to a sport route and claiming a higher grade.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal