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Topic slit Hubble with kneepad (Read 30631 times)

Fultonius

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Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 03:14:41 pm
The comments on that post are amazing. Someone with the handle

DourOldScotMSmithItsNotLikeitWasInMyDay has accused Buster of cheating because of the knee pad. Which does tie in well with the discussed Dave Graham opinion on tactics.

Because not eating for a year and dehydrating yourself for a week are legit but not knee pads. Which got me thinking: props to Matt Wright for what must be among the heaviest ascents of Hubble, if not even the first to break the ten stone barrier?

Oh the irony, considering Malc was one of the early adopters of custom knee pads and is a total knee bar wizard!! I'm sure I saw him down dumby with an old rock shoes sole attached to a pair of climbing jeans...

cowboyhat

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#1 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 03:24:14 pm
Dunning too (IIRC from a conversation with him, it sounded like he was very light at the time)..

Simpson  :worms:
Gaskins
:worms:

No can of worms required; whether they climbed Hubble or not, they're barely ten stone together.

In fact baring that in mind i'm prepared to give them the benefit of the doubt.

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#2 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 04:16:08 pm
The G must have done it because he was a skinny fucker. And bald.  :smartass:

cheque

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#3 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 04:36:24 pm
Spare a thought for those of us who weigh less than 10 stone, own a kneepad and still havenít done Hubble.

dunnyg

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#4 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 05:51:39 pm
#onewadisoneprayer

andy popp

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#5 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 06:34:25 pm
And bald.  :smartass:

I didn't realise baldness was a necessary qualification?


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#6 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 07:29:25 pm
Lasers. Dreds. Power. That picture has the lot :)

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#7 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 07:52:44 pm
Funny old game. The worlds first 8c+ gets upgraded to 9a due to inflation 27 ish years later making it retrospectively the worlds first 9a. Now itís been done with a kneepad (people donít tend to do that unless it makes something easier) - if it ends up back as 8c+ was it still the worlds first 9a or is it the worlds first 8c+ again? Answers to Mr J Gaskins, Warton Cottage, South Lakes.

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#8 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 07:56:09 pm
Question is: What can you use to make it harder again. Must be some duff boots that were only available in the 90's???

Doylo

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#9 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 08:14:38 pm
Maybe when the kneescum is really polished in 20 years itíll be the worlds first 9a again.

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#10 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 08:22:12 pm
Funny old game. The worlds first 8c+ gets upgraded to 9a due to inflation 27 ish years later making it retrospectively the worlds first 9a. Now itís been done with a kneepad (people donít tend to do that unless it makes something easier) - if it ends up back as 8c+ was it still the worlds first 9a or is it the worlds first 8c+ again? Answers to Mr J Gaskins, Warton Cottage, South Lakes.

Well Matt Wright says it's still 9a with the kneebar, so does that mean it was actually 9a+ without?  :popcorn:








:tumble:

36chambers

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#11 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 08:33:56 pm
Funny old game. The worlds first 8c+ gets upgraded to 9a due to inflation 27 ish years later making it retrospectively the worlds first 9a. Now itís been done with a kneepad (people donít tend to do that unless it makes something easier) - if it ends up back as 8c+ was it still the worlds first 9a or is it the worlds first 8c+ again? Answers to Mr J Gaskins, Warton Cottage, South Lakes.

Well Matt Wright says it's still 9a with the kneebar, so does that mean it was actually 9a+ without?  :popcorn:


Also didn't he say it's 9a with the knee bar if you use your right knee, however if you use your left knee it's actually only 8c+?

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#12 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 08:49:25 pm
Funny old game. The worlds first 8c+ gets upgraded to 9a due to inflation 27 ish years later making it retrospectively the worlds first 9a. Now itís been done with a kneepad (people donít tend to do that unless it makes something easier) - if it ends up back as 8c+ was it still the worlds first 9a or is it the worlds first 8c+ again? Answers to Mr J Gaskins, Warton Cottage, South Lakes.

Well Matt Wright says it's still 9a with the kneebar, so does that mean it was actually 9a+ without?  :popcorn:


Also didn't he say it's 9a with the knee bar if you use your right knee, however if you use your left knee it's actually only 8c+?


Could be 8c with both knees then. The worlds 4th 8c? Not got the same ring to it.

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#13 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 08:49:54 pm
sounds like a classic

Fiend

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#14 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 09:01:22 pm
Can't Ned just highball it and then we can be done with it?

remus

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#15 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 09:27:12 pm
Funny old game. The worlds first 8c+ gets upgraded to 9a due to inflation 27 ish years later making it retrospectively the worlds first 9a. Now itís been done with a kneepad (people donít tend to do that unless it makes something easier) - if it ends up back as 8c+ was it still the worlds first 9a or is it the worlds first 8c+ again? Answers to Mr J Gaskins, Warton Cottage, South Lakes.

Well Matt Wright says it's still 9a with the kneebar, so does that mean it was actually 9a+ without?  :popcorn:


Also didn't he say it's 9a with the knee bar if you use your right knee, however if you use your left knee it's actually only 8c+?


Could be 8c with both knees then. The worlds 4th 8c? Not got the same ring to it.

Did Ben even use the toe hook that seems de-rigeur these days? Let's just say it how it is and put the grade down to 8b+.

remus

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#16 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 09:29:20 pm
Can't Ned just highball it and then we can be done with it?

He'd probably find a heel hook and downgrade it to 8A+.

Bradders

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#17 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 09:32:30 pm
Funny old game. The worlds first 8c+ gets upgraded to 9a due to inflation 27 ish years later making it retrospectively the worlds first 9a. Now itís been done with a kneepad (people donít tend to do that unless it makes something easier) - if it ends up back as 8c+ was it still the worlds first 9a or is it the worlds first 8c+ again? Answers to Mr J Gaskins, Warton Cottage, South Lakes.

Well Matt Wright says it's still 9a with the kneebar, so does that mean it was actually 9a+ without?  :popcorn:


Also didn't he say it's 9a with the knee bar if you use your right knee, however if you use your left knee it's actually only 8c+?


Could be 8c with both knees then. The worlds 4th 8c? Not got the same ring to it.

Why not, we don't want it to be an eliminate after all :lol:

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#18 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 10:03:33 pm
Stardate 2030. A man-child snatches a window of good conditions between tropical storms and feral bands of cannibalistic Sheffielders. Glorying in the sub 35c temps and less than 120% humidity he pulls on to Hubble. He climbs to the belay making full use of his two left rubber knees, hooks for feet, Ape Index of +6", and 8 stone body mass. He promptly downgrades the route  to 8a+ (or font 7c above a pad stack). Jenns of 8a.nu trundles over, his disembodied head installed on an all-terrain Roomba, and hands over an enormous golden trophy inscribed "Most Humble Climber".

cheque

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#19 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 10:43:25 pm
sounds like a classic

This would be a great burn if anyone considered Hubble a classic.

36chambers

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#20 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 10:58:56 pm
So are we basically saying Hubble is the Keen Roof of 9a?

I predict another 5 ascents before the end of 2021 and by then it'll be a certified trade route :smart:

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#21 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 11:09:58 pm
Get spidermonkey on it, get it cusped.

SA Chris

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#22 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 12, 2020, 11:22:38 pm
Looks like the most clad ascent too. Long sleeve top and knee pad. Most have only managed it shirtless or in a vest.

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#23 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 15, 2020, 07:54:57 pm
The comments on that post are amazing. Someone with the handle

DourOldScotMSmithItsNotLikeitWasInMyDay has accused Buster of cheating because of the knee pad. Which does tie in well with the discussed Dave Graham opinion on tactics.

Because not eating for a year and dehydrating yourself for a week are legit but not knee pads. Which got me thinking: props to Matt Wright for what must be among the heaviest ascents of Hubble, if not even the first to break the ten stone barrier?

Just wanting to clarify, did Matt climb it with the pad? I hadn't assumed he did, but have heard otherwise.

Always good to know the quality of the gold you're trading  ;) - and I think the significance of any ascent works that way. I just don't think I'd claim an ascent using a pad,


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#24 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 15, 2020, 08:24:21 pm
A detailed video of Matt Wright describing his beta for Hubble is on his instagram here https://www.instagram.com/p/CGQJzFOjBBk/

He describes the knee bar/scum from 53s in, and the footage appears to show that he can only keep it in for the first part of the move before it comes out.

I will never climb Hubble so don't have to worry about whether I would use the knee bar or not.

 

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