[shark]

11.7-8 Average 161.5 (up 2.0lbs)

M. AM Northern General for dressing change. Nurse impressed with how well finger was healing. No need to go back unless it gets infected
PM. Online mind meld with the Kettle. He suggested I resumed training.
Eve. Assisted one armers and recruitment and speed pulls fingerboard session. Found a use for the lattice rung. The bevel on the jug meant I could do hangs loading the first joint of my mid two rather than weighting the injured tips. Far from ideal and hurts a bit.

T. Made a TRX/rings out of string and plastic tube. Nearly crushed my bad finger with a barbell sorting out a set up for hip thrusts. Also had to drop the barbell to get out of a back squat. Decided that front squat was safer. Experimented with the exercises John recommended - static overhead press, front squat, hip thrust, straight leg deadlift and something approximating Y and T on rings facing down and up.

W.

T. Eve Assisted one armers. Fingerboard - recruitment and speed pulls

F. Eve. Weights.

S.

S.

Easing back into it. Finger recovering well but still a few weeks before I can climb on it.

[Will Hunt]

Weighed myself this week and weight is down to 66/67kg. So have lost 2-3kg at some point.

M - board session playing on new BM holds. They're quite generous. Good to do big moves to and from. Mostly pinches so good for working that weakness. Finished a project from last week. Need to set some harder things. Stopped as was getting some pain in RH middle finger.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-X3b3ljBJk/?igshid=we91z77vffh5

T - core and stretching

W - rest. A few pull ups for the LMC comp.

T- board. Lots of fun. Set two things that will hopefully take some time. Finished Lockdown 2 which is now called Totally Zen.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-ew_V0D9rs/?igshid=pnyqa8q7ctq

F - experimented with weighted pull ups. Warmed up and did a few sets with 10kg added. Managed 7 on the best set.

S - family walk. Saw a man climbing on an obscure buttress. Cracked out the sniper rifle and loaded in a clip of hollow point rounds. He just exploded.

S- morning ride of about 15 miles. Did some stretching when home and squeezed in just a little core before lunch.

Didn't actually use the fingerboard this week. Would like to do 2 board sessions and 2 x 30 mins fingerboard this week but not sure if that will be too much too soon for the fingers. Plus a couple of core workouts plus some pull ups plus a bit of cardio to keep weight down. Not sure how it will all fit in.

[Nutty]

Goals: Get strong, don't get injured, stay healthy and sane.

M: Put 14 new footholds up on the garden board.
T: Garden board session. Managed to do one of my benchmark problems second go which indicates progress. Finished session when left middle finger felt slightly sore around DIP joint.
W: Rest
T: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 25mm edge.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 20mm edge. Forgot that I was supposed to be dropping the edge size down this session so did a couple of bodyweight +20% hangs on the 25mm edge before remembering and doing the 20mm hangs.

Good to get out on the board this week. Left middle finger seems ok. Making steady progress on the fingerboard - plan is to do 3 more sessions on the 20mm edge (2 this week ,1 next) before decreasing edge size again to 15mm.

[Murph]

Jealous of any of you losing weight during confinement. Eating and drinking are two of the only things I seem psyched for. Any tips?

M-kettlebells
T-5k run
W-kettlebells
T-5k run
F-kettlebells
S-5k run
S-

I have a bm1k, bm2k, bm micros, a trx and a garage board that I'm not using. I'm not really sure what the malfunction is...

[mr chaz]

Nice one Shark.

Goals: i) Exercise everyday and ii) End lockdown fitter than I started.

M. Fingerboard - max one arm hangs on 18 mm edge with 7kg assistance pulley.
T. 20 minute yoga sesh with gf, followed by 20 minute full body HIIT.
W. Fingerboard - 2 arm hangs aiming for 20 s on various holds.
T. 20 minute Kettlebell workout. Feel like I need a 12kg weight to get the most out of this (biggest we've got is an 8kg).
F. Fingerboard - max 1 arm hangs on 18 mm edge with 7kg assistance pulley.
S. 15 minute lower body HIIT routine, followed by 12 minute hip mobility routine (saw some vast improvements since last week with this).
S. Watched Stone Love  . Fingerboard - repeaters, managed to complete 2 sets (each set takes 8 mins) before I felt like I was either going to throw up or shit myself. Followed by a quick 12 minute HIIT routine with the gf.

Feeling truly excellent after 2 weeks of this. I'm feeling really motivated to carry on (admittedly the weather is making it easy) and also to unlock some greatly needed hip flexibility (probably my single biggest climbing weakness and something I've never addressed).

[gollum]

Aim to make the very most I can of being inside. Let’s see how long I can be disciplined enough and let’s see what the outcome look like.

Plan is actually as follows:
Weekdays : 10 miles combining walk and run.
Alternate chest and shoulders with back and arms
Alternate light core work/heavy finger work with heavy finger work/light core work

Weekends : Just the walk/run

M - 10k treadmill run at a steady pace.
Weights with body weight, bands and light kettle bells. Work for an hour on chest exercises. Had to get quite creative and never realised quite how hard bench pressing with kettlebells is.
Afternoon, an hours walk on treadmill at Backyard Ultra pace.
Beastmaker repeaters. It’s been a while so keep on bigger holds for each grip position but get them all done relatively comfortable so will be pushing a bit harder over coming weeks. Finish off with some planks and other light core exercises.

T - Treadmill 10k early on in the morning. Then start work on something from Andy Pollitt’s ‘Punks in the Gym’ where he would do 7 pull ups every minute for 50 minutes, I decide to start with 5 reps working my way around the doorways off the hall, changing every 10 minutes. I manage to get to get to the end. Some door frames are much more painful than others. Finish off the morning training with some curls and tricep presses.
Afternoon is heavy core, light fingers. Do some lever raises for 3x3 followed by planks, crunches, bicycles etc. Finish with some benchmarking on 30 second holds with Ash’s mono gadget. Interesting results.
Complete the afternoon with an hour long walk on the treadmill.

W - Treadmill hour first half at M pace, second half at just over 10k pace and then as haven’t been out for five days go straight for 5k around the block at a steady pace.
Bit of snowboarding or rather playing Steep on the XBox. Thanks SA Chris for the recommendation. Fair to say I’m a better snowboarder than I am a gamer. Entertaining and distracting though.
Then do an hours weights working chest and shoulders. Follow this with a bit of light core work.
Last session of the day is a repeater session on Beastmaker. Pretty much the same as Monday although three in a set on the 10mm edge.

T - How to change the programme, I can’t so just change the order.
Start the day with pull ups à la AP. EMOM for 50 sets, first 25 for 5 reps, last 25 for 6. Manage to find a bar that seems to stay in door frame, so hands don’t hurt today. Finish this session with some locks on the bar at 90 degrees. Arms are a tremblin’ when I finish.
Move on to a core session doing lever pulls, planks etc etc and followed up with a really old school 2x75 sit ups....... well they seemed to work for me twenty years ago.
Then first run of the day with 30 minutes at 10k pace.
Break for lunch, watch the news and then back on it.
But of biceps and triceps work with bands and kettlebells. Can definitely train these small muscles effectively despite limited kit.
Then on to another hour on the treadmill running at marathon pace.
Final exercise of the day is a bit of work with the mono tool, doing 30 second hangs with a range of weights for two reps. All pretty light but a bit heavier than Tuesday.

F - Treadmill 10k first thing. Then on to chest and shoulder work with bands, kettlebells and body weight exercises. Finish off the morning with some light core work.
After lunch spend an hour walking at pace on the treadmill whilst watching Doctor Sleep. Finish off exercise for the day with repeaters on the Beastmaker.

S - 5k around the block, picking up some essentials for elderly neighbours.

S - Treadmill 10k, plus short run walk to top up distance to 100k

[spidermonkey09]

Fancy swapping houses Murph?!    good stuff everyone.

Had to check my diary to see what i did this week as all the days are mingling into one!

M- rest. Stretched everything and did some foam rolling.

T- max hangs. Back to two arms for a bit of a change. Used the BM2K slot with a battery in it so approx 20mm. Just a benchmarking session, but up to 30kg which was pleasing as was near enough my previous 2A max, which was on a 23mm incut edge. Inspired by JohnM's regime, finished off with 50 pullups and 40 pressups. Stretched in the evening.

W- repeaters. Anderson hangs using BM2K bottom outside, 35 slopers snd battery edge. Started on bodyweight and completed the whole set which was pleasing. Slopers felt nails with 10kg added. Some experimentation on the newly constructed TRX to finish: IYT and rows. Stretched in the evening.

T- core. Abripperx for the first time in a few weeks. Got taken to the cleaners. Why is it so hard?!

F- max hangs. 30kg. Just about completed the set, will do it again before adding more weight though. Did 10 pullups on bottom outside edge to see if I could; has to be so slow and controlled. Feels dangerous! 50 normal pullups and some TRX to finish. Good session. Stretched in evening.

S- repeaters. Anderson hangs again. Added 1.25kg as base weight. Fine on the bottom outside and battery edge but weak as piss on the slopers, didnt even complete the first set! Must have been a bit wasted from the day before. Some brief TRX to finish. Stretched in evening.

S- rest. Easy hour or so on the bike and stretching.

Good week, seem to have got into a good 2 on, 1 off routine with max hangs on day 1 and repeaters on day 2. Will go up in the air this week though as giving blood today. Home made TRX works well; to anyone else considering it, rolled up magazines work brilliantly as handles. A Summit would be perfect. More of the same this week, if anyone has a good structured TRX session please feel free to share.

[tomtom]

Jealous of any of you losing weight during confinement. Eating and drinking are two of the only things I seem psyched for. Any tips?

Ive lost 0.5-1 kg in the last two weeks. Why? For me...

I’m doing the Joe Wicks PE hiit thing every morning.

I don’t drink any more (though have had the odd half glass of wine with some pasta).

No eating out (lunch at work or otherwise) and one takeaway a week (sat night curry treat).

Total control of diet... indo the shopping and the cooking. No chocs or biscuits on the list. Few of any puddings. Sensible breakfast, light lunch. Early normal sized dinner.

Childcare. Despite confinement - every day I have the boy the Fitbit tells me I’m doing 10k steps or more. Which is 3-4 days a week. Despite not getting out for a walk or run at all.

Fingerbord 3 times a week.

I dunno - no silver bullets there - just lots of little things.

I do - however - have a penchant for a mini magnum after the lad has finally gone to sleep.

[yetix]

M: rest
T: rest
W: BM1k max hangs upto 25kg added x3, back 2 on same edge -18kgx3. Muscle ups 3x5, IYT on rings 3x12, push ups on rings 3x12
T: rest
F: BM1k max hangs upto 25kg added x3
S: pistol squats 3x5 with 5kg added
S: BM1k max hangs upto 25kg added x6, back 2 on same edge 22kgx3. Weighted pull ups 3x5, 1 arm rows 3x5, 2 arm rows 3x12

A2 is still feeling mildly sore to touch and will add more weight to hangs once the discomfort passes.

[tomtom]

What edge for you max hangs on the 1K Yetix?

[shark]

Jealous of any of you losing weight during confinement. Eating and drinking are two of the only things I seem psyched for. Any tips?

Had this discussion with John. He was of the view that if training for strength then best to forget about dieting (obviously eat healthy with plenty of protein).

As I don’t know when I can climb again because of the injury and lockdown I’ve come round to his way of thinking and hence put on 2lb this week.

Reckon I’ll grind out 1lb weight loss a week for a couple of months when I start climbing outside again aiming sub 11 stone again in the autumn.

[Nibile]

I am compelled to say that it's not about weight loss, it's about fat loss, if one wants to do things right and for the long term.
Anyway...

Power Club

Mon - very tired. TB DL 5x5 (90 kg), 10 x 70 kg, 20 x 60. Bar work. Core.
Tue - recovery session, light boxing bag.
Wed - ab wheel static + normal, heavy. Press ups gym style, hard. Garage, back3, front3, normal hang, 10" each back to back. Rest, x10. Lateral raises gym style. Landmine complex, fantastic.
Thu - boxing bag, power.
Fri - lateral raises, push ups, triceps. TB DL finisher 30" 80 kg (60%) x 5 x10. Absolutely brutal, completed it but it was fucking hard. So happy, previous test with 80 kg was regular EMOM 80 x5 x 12. So this time 50 reps in 4'30" instead of 60 in 9'. No wonder I have doping-limit hematocrit.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - tired. Two laps on circuit. Unsurprisingly no progress. Weights.

Enjoying the board at the moment, but running out of training fantasy a bit.
Last rest day was March the 3rd...

[Murph]

Thanks chaps thanks nibs. Yes it is about fat loss. Rather I could rephrase mine to say "jealous of anyone not packing on lard"  TT - solid advice there. So eating chocolate biscuits and drinking beer because weekend are things I probably should take off my to do list. I'll not sweat a couple of kilos but have struggled with my weight for years - sort of all or nothing. Need to get out of that for the next few months and make the best of it.

Spider- I know right - lead a horse to water and all that. should get stuck in really!

Ok thanks all for the motivational feedback. This week I will do my best. Going to come out of this stronger and hit some fingerboard benchmarks.

[yetix]

What edge for you max hangs on the 1K Yetix?

Bottom 1k 18mm edge

[cheque]

Started feeling ill last Sunday. Not Coronavirus symptoms and didn’t turn into anything that stopped me working every day but didn’t feel up to training and obviously stayed completely indoors for a week. 

M-W Nothing

T- Deadlift. Did two reps of 50, 70, 80 & 90kg then one of 100kg which equals my post-injury PB. Couldn’t lift it again.

F- Rest.

S- 3x6 pull-ups, 3x25 push-ups. Didn’t stretch and went to bed at 3. 

S- Sore and tired. Walked to Bell Hagg which was fucking amazing after a week indoors. As the golf course I walk across to get there is closed I was able to wander back across the whole course rather than just using the one right of way across it- last time this was possible was early 2018 when it was one big snowdrift. Turns out there’s a very small quarry on there with potential for three or four boulder problems- the Catch 22 being that when we can climb again the course will be open again and it’s not only above one of the greens it’s also visible from peoples houses. 

Rock climbing is feeling very distant at the moment so lacking motivation and imagination for training- fiddling about in the studio much more appealing. Also eating Easter eggs every day. Not ill or completely cooped up this week so should get more exercise done.

[mark20]

S- Sore and tired. Walked to Bell Hagg which was fucking amazing after a week indoors. As the golf course I walk across to get there is closed I was able to wander back across the whole course rather than just using the one right of way across it- last time this was possible was early 2018 when it was one big snowdrift. Turns out there’s a very small quarry on there with potential for three or four boulder problems- the Catch 22 being that when we can climb again the course will be open again and it’s not only above one of the greens it’s also visible from peoples houses

This?
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/17-bell-hagg/boulders/230-golf-course#.XosONSTTXYU

[36chambers]

STG: to be able to hang all the holds on the BM2K (across the respective range of finger arrangements) for 5 seconds. Haven't tried yet.

M: Run. Weighted max hangs. 2 handed, 10 sec, 20 mm, +45 kg, 8 sets. Felt fine.
T: Run.
W: Run. Crimpd's varied grip work out. Using homemade ~11 mm edge. Front three half crimp felt pretty fierce.
T: Run.
F: Run. Weighted max hangs. 2 handed, 10 sec, 20 mm, +50 kg, 4 sets at max. 2 sets at 45 kg.   
S: Run
S: weighted pull ups. +20 kg (and above) for 6 sets of 5 (as wide as possible to prevent elbows locking past 90 degrees). Mono no hangs, open handed. Went up to 15 kg on index and mid. Only went up to 7.5 kg on ring, I noticed it hurts a tad if I try and keep the rest of my fingers curled. 8 sets of 7 seconds.

Did various stretching and core stuff throughout the week, but can't remember which days as my life is a blur.

[tomtom]

What edge for you max hangs on the 1K Yetix?

Bottom 1k 18mm edge

Effort. I think I got up to about 15kgs on them last year then stopped! I can’t hang them with my back 3 without any assistance - my hands are so index and middle loaded!

[cheque]

This?
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/17-bell-hagg/boulders/230-golf-course#.XosONSTTXYU

Yep, can’t picture those problems exactly (there are two arêtes) but I imagine it’s easy if you read the descriptions when there. There’s also a friable-looking flake but it’s probably only a “fore”. 

[SA Chris]

Lets not start putting terrible puns about here.

[yetix]

What edge for you max hangs on the 1K Yetix?

Bottom 1k 18mm edge

Effort. I think I got up to about 15kgs on them last year then stopped! I can’t hang them with my back 3 without any assistance - my hands are so index and middle loaded!

Before I hurt my finger I was upto 34kg added in 4F HC, and feels like I could add more atm but would become uncomfortable, so as this is a marathon not a sprint gonna rehab it nice and slowly and slowly increase the load up!

Back 2 I'm taking 22kg off, so that's a total weight hang of 43ish kg I think on those, so I think like you I'm mostly loading my front two! (would mean in theory front 2 were taking 56ish kg) not sure if this is normal or not, but just thought seeing as I don't want to increase the load on the middle fingers atm that I could increase the back 2 load and see if I experience some 4 finger improvement, if not maybe it'll make my ring finger a little less injure prone in the future maybe.

I'd like for future me to get to Murph numbers on the smaller edge!

[Murph]

I'd like for future me to get to Murph numbers on the smaller edge!

Likewise! A shadow of my former. Best of luck.

[nai]

M - Joe Wicks with kids
hip mobility
shoulder massage then new set of mobility exercises, as others didn't seem to be hitting the right areas
evening walk

T Legs hurt, not going walking again
hip mobility

W Leg still hurt

Andersons session 8. Went backwards again. Decided it was time to move on
TRX
Weigted pullups, managed 4x5 +21kg and 4.75 of the last set.
Core?

Th hip mobility

F -
Brief board warm up, tried a couple of hard problems, did the moves but snap not there as expected
max hangs, scores up 1kg on F3 and 4f 1/2 crimps and 2kg on M2 drags but I don't know whjat to make of that yet, I seem to fluctuate session to session and some days the wood just feels grippier. But I suppose encouraging that I could open a new block seemingly ahead, hopefully this was a low day and/or the Andersons have laid foundation for further improvements.
DL
OH squat
Core

S shoulder and hip massage and mobility

S - Intended to train but woke with a cricked upper back and sore left elbow, elbow cam and went so nothing to worry about, tried freeing the back during the day but the knot persisted.

[nai]

Lets not start putting terrible puns about here.

had to be eagle eyed to spot that one

[yetix]

I'd like for future me to get to Murph numbers on the smaller edge!

Likewise! A shadow of my former. Best of luck.

I'm sure it'll come back fast once you get cracking again!