[spidermonkey09]

Theres probably a sweet spot isnt there. If the lockdown lasts 3 months (ie a standard length block of training) I suspect most will emerge stronger. Beyond this I would suspect a tail off will occur as people get bored and sack it off in favour of netflix and beer. A six month lockdown might result in a bigger strength gap between the keen and the obsessed, whereas a three month lockdown might bring them closer together.

[Nibile]

Nevermind guys, the first five or six years of training on one's own are a bit hard, then you get used to it and after fifteen or twenty years it feels like a piece of cake.

[Murph]

You're an inspiration nibs. I'm glad you are still quietly smashing it.

[tim palmer]

Nevermind guys, the first five or six years of training on one's own are a bit hard, then you get used to it and after fifteen or twenty years it feels like a piece of cake.

Out of curiosity,  have you seen improvements outdoors and did they plateau? 

[Bradders]

I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.

+1

This seems to be the sentiment of pretty much everyone, from my experience of the Leeds depot I rarely see anyone else climbing on the board so I don't necessarily think everyone is already training like fury (but I do tend to climb at quiet times).

 Since having kids (and breaking my ankle in a minor but functionally significant fashion) my normal routine pretty much solely comprises fingerboarding and board climbing. I think I am significantly stronger now than I was 4 years ago and when I have climbed outdoors (rarely) I have climbed a few things I haven't been able to in the past. 

I am curious to see how this goes,  maybe no 8b in Yorkshire will safe from the downgrading but it is pretty boring.

There was a great scene on the board maybe a year or so ago; quite a few people keen and psyched, lots of heckling, lots of punting. Great fun. Seems to have really tailed off ever since though, usually just me (or you, or Foley) there when I've been on it in the last few months.

I've always prioritised climbing outside (and in the current situation it's hard to regret that!), but I've also always tried to fit training in around outdoor stuff. That's been really hard now I think about it, and it's meant I've never had an extended block of time purely dedicated to training; trying to balance doing both is pretty impossible, especially if you're trying hard/projecting outside.

Very interesting to see how it'll go just purely training, although without a board I'm definitely concerned about keeping certain climbing specific technique and strength and also maintaining power.

[tomtom]

That’s the tough one Bradders. You can train the individual elements of climbing with relatively little kit - but need a board to link them together. Or be much better at structuring work outs than I am!

[abarro81]

If you don't have a board I think you just have to accept that at the end of this period you'll be strong-but-shit for a little while. In my experience you can get away with this most on bouldering, slightly less on redpoint routes or longer bouldering, and least on onsighting routes...

[Nibile]

 

You're an inspiration nibs. I'm glad you are still quietly smashing it.

Cheers Murph!
 

[Nibile]

Nevermind guys, the first five or six years of training on one's own are a bit hard, then you get used to it and after fifteen or twenty years it feels like a piece of cake.

Out of curiosity,  have you seen improvements outdoors and did they plateau?

Outdoors?
What does that mean?

[Nibile]

Jokes apart, I haven't climbed outside in the last three years.
Before that, I'd been going outside maybe once or twice per year. Last proper (kind of) year of climbing was probably 2014.
I've always been quite bad at planning, so I'd generally do my climbing (almost) regardless of projects on rock, bar the usual day off before, and even that not always.
With experience I've found very useful for me to play things well during a small trip, rather than programming a training cycle for an objective. Also because I couldn't plan in advance when I could go on a trip and I've had many projects relatively close to home (1,5 hours drive), so I could go every weekend waiting for the right moment (that not always came).

[jwi]

If you don't have a board I think you just have to accept that at the end of this period you'll be strong-but-shit for a little while. In my experience you can get away with this most on bouldering, slightly less on redpoint routes or longer bouldering, and least on onsighting routes...

A friend who is a mountain guide do lots of skitouring in the spring + hangboarding in the evenings and can usually climb to the third bolt of any route in the world, but never to the fourth bolt, regardless of grade at the end of the season...