[nai]

goals - come out ahead

M -
Lunch  - Andersons seesison 4, hangs and pickups
TRX - I,Y, Reverse fly, low row, archer row, face pulls
Core

T - 4x5mins LI Aero
Hip and shoulder mobility

W -
Hip and shoulder mobility

Th Andersons 5 - despite rest felt tired, pretty poor session, especially LH mono pickups, ring and index just opening up out of crimp.
OH squat
weighted pullups
DL
Core

F - hip and shoulder mobility
core

S hip mobility

S Andersons 6. Pretty underwhelming again
TRX
Hip mobility

I'm struggling with the Anderson hangs now, all over the place with them same as max hangs, the only grips that are consistent and improving are M2 hangs and pinky pickups, which are both drags, all half crimp grips are up and down session to session.

And I've realised I didn't benchmark before starting so won't know if they've had any effect anyway.

Also finding it counterintuitive to take two rest days between sessions and trying to turn on strength on schedule, maybe that's why the results are all over the place. So I'm just going to work out when I feel good now.

[jwi]

good job everyone.

STG. Improve half crimp finger strength. Improve pullup strength. Beat previous test scores done on this in the last year.

LTG. Climb again.

Mon. Rest

Tue. Morning: Hangboard 1-arm hangs. 5 x 10 s half crimp, planned 5 x 10s open, but aborted after half set and took a 2h nap instead.
Evening Physical. Dips 3x6. Assorted core exercises.

Wed. Morning too tired for cardio.
Evening Hangboard 1-arm hangs. 4 x 10 s half crimp, 4 x 10s open hand. Stretching

Thu. Noon. Pullups 2x12, Pushups + assorted core. Stretching
Evening. 40 min stamina training on oversized fingerboard + 2x5 min shaking out from jugs.

Fri. Rest

Sat. Noon. Easy cardio, about 30min.
Evening. Hangboard 1-arm hangs. 6 x 10 s half crimp, 6 x 10s open hand. Medium-wide pinch-block 6x10s. Hangboard full crimp 4x10s
Stretching.

Sun. Noon. Physical Pullups 3x6. Pushups, vups, supermans. a bit of stretching
Evening. Hangboard repeaters. Half crimp 3x6x(7s hang);r=3s, R=3min. Open hand 3x6x(7s hang);r=3s, R=3min
More stretching.

[Coops_13]

Recently got a puppy, which currently means fuck all sleep and limited chance of floor exercise without being viciously attacked. The dog's a right bastard.

Welcome to puppy club. Mine's got used to me doing press-ups but still chases the ab-wheel with open jaws...

M: 300 core movements, 100 press-ups

T: 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs

W: Sunken Gardens - Portable Fingerboard. 30 pull-ups (board not good for these). 5 sets repeaters * 6 reps 25mm edge - end of every set difficult. 3 sets BW 10 sec hang 15mm edge. Lower body stretching in between

T: 100 press-ups
Made a meal of trying to put a backboard of ply up over the doorway. Managed to drill six holes with the drill bit going the wrong way and breaking a drill bit  Studs ended up being too deep to be usable...

F: Sunken Gardens - Portable Fingerboard. 80 pull-ups (part at home). 5 sets repeaters * 6 reps 25mm edge. 3 sets BW 10 sec hang 15mm edge.
300 core movements

S: 100 press-ups, 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs
BM 2K arrived so created set up to go over pull-up bar with ply and some other beams - works surprisingly well!

S: 50 pull-ups, BM 2K 6C beastly workout 2 sets on the new fingerboard. Used thumbs to pinch slopers, 14mm instead of middle two, 30mm instead of front two. Really good burn from this. 20 front lever pulls. Lower body stretching

Completed my week aim of three fingerboard sessions and four core, need to pick up the other aspects. Worried about adding weight to my doorway pull-up bar set-up (and weights haven't arrived yet) so will stick to repeaters for now. Fingers are still a long way off their best given my finger injury last May and my five-month lay-off recently - psyched to get them firing again

[Footwork]

Being furloughed from the 1st so will have more time but will need to work out a system so I don't get chronically bored or just fatigued from over-fingerboarding.

Think the crux for me will be trying not to drink so much (every night this week I think) and having enforced rest days; at least one, maybe two a week.

Yeah I'm struggling with routine at home. Not been furloughed yet but see it coming in a month or so, unless the market picks up suddenly... 

Drinking way more than usual and not training. My sole motivation for climbing is to do it outside. If I never got shut down outside I wouldn't train (logical really).

I think I did Ab ripper once last week and that was it. Need to step. it. up

[Duma]

T: run. mono no hangs. Was planning on doing a proper fingerboard session but got carried away playing with these. Chisel grip... 

What's a chisel on a mono?? Chisel is pinky and index dragging, middle two half crimp surely?

[tomtom]

If anyone is struggling for routine and motivation - I recommend having a partner who is a keyworker and getting a toddler to look after. 😃

My fingerboard hours are in the diary and each one is 60-90 min where I can escape from catching up on work or having to watch Fireman Sam and empty a potty. I am very much looking forward to One armer Tuesday as it’s now known.

In it for the long haul...

[Coops_13]

I've just made my plan alternating days of fingerboard / pull-ups one day, press-ups and core the next. I have weekly aims such as number of days doing 100 press-ups etc. This seems to be working but yes, I am drinking more...

[Footwork]

I've just made my plan alternating days of fingerboard / pull-ups one day, press-ups and core the next. I have weekly aims such as number of days doing 100 press-ups etc. This seems to be working but yes, I am drinking more...

I reckon if I put it in my work calendar it will help me focus. All I need to do now is move 5ft from the kitchen table to the pull up bar.

I'll aim for 4 sessions a week.

1x core, press ups and trx
1x fingerboard and pull ups
1x max hang type stuff and yoga/ mobility
1x finger stretches and massage

[Bradders]

T: run. mono no hangs. Was planning on doing a proper fingerboard session but got carried away playing with these. Chisel grip... 

What's a chisel on a mono?? Chisel is pinky and index dragging, middle two half crimp surely?

Have a similar question; quite a few seem to be doing these in half crimp, any particular reason? I've been doing these too but fully open, as that's how I'd normally take a pocket. Should you do both?

Recently got a puppy, which currently means fuck all sleep and limited chance of floor exercise without being viciously attacked. The dog's a right bastard.

It gets easier, really quickly in my experience.

[shark]

All I need to do now is move 5ft from the kitchen table to the pull up bar.

You can do it, we believe in you

[tomtom]

All I need to do now is move 5ft from the kitchen table to the pull up bar.

You can do it, we believe in you

How many years do you think it would take you Shark? 😢😃

[36chambers]

What's a chisel on a mono?? Chisel is pinky and index dragging, middle two half crimp surely?

What I mean is the pip joint at 90 degrees and the dip joint at 180. When doing it as a full hand grip, I normally have my front three fingers in this position, and pinky dragging. I don't actually know if I'm using the term correctly

Have a similar question; quite a few seem to be doing these in half crimp, any particular reason? I've been doing these too but fully open, as that's how I'd normally take a pocket. Should you do both?

No reason other than I was curious about how strong my individual fingers are (partly inspired by https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30522.msg600842.html). I'm planning on doing some open hand stuff to actually train for monoing too.

Recently got a puppy, which currently means fuck all sleep and limited chance of floor exercise without being viciously attacked. The dog's a right bastard.

It gets easier, really quickly in my experience.

I hope so, it would be nice to be able to relax again.

[Bradders]

Okay gotcha, thanks.

My sole motivation for climbing is to do it outside. If I never got shut down outside I wouldn't train (logical really).

Think of it this way; if you don't do something you will get shut down when you eventually get back outside.

I really struggled with motivation (lack of) early last week and my mood is very up and down, but I'm lucky because I actually really like fingerboarding 

M - despair

T - utterly miserable but did a warm up routine on the fingerboard. Half crimp low edge on BM2k 20s +6kg, +11kg & + 16kg. Tried +21kg and got to 18s. Then middle mono pick ups 10s 5kg, 10kg & 15kg.

W - marginally better mood. Had a really good warm up, then did half crimp low edge on BM2k 20s +6kg, +11kg & 3x +16kg. Tried a couple of one arm hangs pinching the (plastic and therefore very slippery) top of the door frame with the other hand and on the low middle slot did 3 hangs each arm, all 8-10s before failure. Next did f3 open 3x 10s +11kg. Last middle mono pick ups 10s 10kg & 3x 15kg.

T - nothing

F - another good warm up including 3x 8r 11kg overhead press. Then did half crimp low edge on BM2k 20s +6kg, +11kg & 3x +16kg. Next same edge and half crimp did 10s +25kg, +30kg & +27kg. Second of those matches my PB and didn't quite feel maximal so pretty good. Lastly did f3 open 2x 10s +11kg, tried a third but failed at 6s.

S - big session, big warm up lots of moving planks, push ups, pull ups, etc. Then tried some undercut pick ups using my portable fingerboard, in half crimp on a 14mm edge did 1x 10s 20kg and 4x 10s 22kg. Super set these with leg raises with ankle weights, 1x 5r +2kg and 4x 5r +4kg. Next did mono pick ups 5x 15kg superset w/ attempted 10s front levers w/ one leg tucked (nails). Then repeaters on the low BM2k edge 4x 7/3 6r +10kg (felt okay, completed all reps), superset with 20 push ups. Finally did 5x 10r 5kg dumbbell side raises superset w/ 20 push ups.

S - longer walk c. 3.6 miles

Have done at least a couple of miles walking every day, more than I would normally.

[spidermonkey09]

Yeah I'm struggling with routine at home. Not been furloughed yet but see it coming in a month or so, unless the market picks up suddenly... 

Drinking way more than usual and not training. My sole motivation for climbing is to do it outside. If I never got shut down outside I wouldn't train (logical really).

I think I did Ab ripper once last week and that was it. Need to step. it. up

Yeah, I enjoy training but I do it for outdoors rather than for its own sake. Absolutely guarantee I will go outside again when  this is done and feel no different on the rock despite all the training!

Got into the habit of doing abripper every week since xmas. Amazing how it still feels nails.

Last day of work for me today. Management talking about how I might be back in a month but the only way I can see that happening is if one of the people they've kept on gets ill tbh.

[Duma]

What's a chisel on a mono?? Chisel is pinky and index dragging, middle two half crimp surely?

What I mean is the pip joint at 90 degrees and the dip joint at 180. When doing it as a full hand grip, I normally have my front three fingers in this position, and pinky dragging. I don't actually know if I'm using the term correctly

Sounds like a half crimp to me. A chisel is what I drop into when failing to hold a half crimp at the end of a set...

[Murph]

Well done everyone who has been plugging away. I've not much to add and the normal weekly format has fallen by the wayside - without going to work all the days have sort of cascaded into an indistinguishable collage of grey.

A few short runs from the house.
Two kettlebell sessions.
Dug the mess out from under the garage board. And sat under it for an hour not sure of myself.
Boozed too much while gaming online with my mate in the evenings.
Developed a new level of respect for convicts who keep themselves in shape in movies like De Niro in Cape Fear or Sarah Connor in T2.

[tomtom]

Developed a new level of respect for convicts who keep themselves in shape in movies like De Niro in Cape Fear or Sarah Connor in T2.

Last week it got the point where I wondered if MrsTT was going to stab me in the hand with a pen like Sarah Connor does in T2...

[SA Chris]

I'd be more worried if she had a syringe full of Drain-O to be honest.

[JohnM]

Yeah, I enjoy training but I do it for outdoors rather than for its own sake. Absolutely guarantee I will go outside again when  this is done and feel no different on the rock despite all the training!

I am the same. I only train for outdoors. It is a necessary evil to have a chance at the routes that inspire me outdoors. That is why I dislike the growing prevalence of parkour style boulder indoors as it has very little translation. Strangely I am not finding it hard at all that I can't climb outdoors at the moment. The fact that I will again someday (I am hoping June), is enough!

[tomtom]

Me too John - but I’m going to embrace the opportunity and try and throw myself at the finger boarding/training and see if it bumps me over a couple of strength plateaus.

Otherwise it’d be the Pringles and beer training programme. 😂

[cheque]

Me too, I’m a rock climber. It’s weird to say it (and probably due to not having had a proper day out where the focus was on my own climbing since October) but I miss being out in the countryside more than I miss the physical activity of climbing at the moment.

But we’re all indoor climbers now and whichever one of the five stages of grief we’re currently at we have to make the best of it. On the glorious day when we can get out again we’ll all have poor footwork, no endurance, crap skin, no head game whatsoever and probably too-many-pull-up-related injuries but some of us will be stronger than others and with smaller beer bellies. I for one am determined to be in that category!

[Will Hunt]

I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.

[36chambers]

I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.

+1

[lagerstarfish]

Developed a new level of respect for convicts who keep themselves in shape in movies like De Niro in Cape Fear or Sarah Connor in T2.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Solitary-Fitness-Charles-Bronson/dp/1844543099

[tim palmer]

I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.

+1

This seems to be the sentiment of pretty much everyone, from my experience of the Leeds depot I rarely see anyone else climbing on the board so I don't necessarily think everyone is already training like fury (but I do tend to climb at quiet times).

 Since having kids (and breaking my ankle in a minor but functionally significant fashion) my normal routine pretty much solely comprises fingerboarding and board climbing. I think I am significantly stronger now than I was 4 years ago and when I have climbed outdoors (rarely) I have climbed a few things I haven't been able to in the past. 

I am curious to see how this goes,  maybe no 8b in Yorkshire will safe from the downgrading but it is pretty boring.