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Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April (Read 7496 times)

HarryBD

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#25 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:42:41 pm
Diary still hasn’t arrived so what training I’ve done is scribbled down on a post it (I thought I’d done more than a single post it notes width of training)

M - bike 4 x my lockdown lap, 100 of each pull-up press-up crunch and squat. Not doing this again as it promoted bad form for me. Max hangs before this 2A 6x10s at bw half crimp felt steady
T - core BD beta plus 3x8 hanging leg raises and LMC pull-ups challenge (14)
W - 4 x Lockdown lap on bike, 5x 10 pull-ups, 2 x 25 press-ups, max hangs as above BD core
T - Loop of baildon on the bike.
F - Pull-ups, 5x10 with 8 kg, BD beta core
S - shit mood and didn’t want to do anything but made myself get out for two lockdown loops on the bike and felt better after this so did max hangs as above. Ready to add a little weight there.
S - longer ride round Bolton Abbey really enjoyed it and waved at lots of friendly cyclists not holding traffic up. BD core

Also did some sort of stretching most days but when my diary arrives this’ll be more focused

HarryBD

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#26 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:46:33 pm
Murph I’ve self imposed a booze ban. I’m not a big drinker but do like citrusy IPAs and was finding myself having a fair bit. Quite like the Punk AF chilled as a bit of a reward having done some reasonable exercise. Will be having an Easter egg each this weekend but apart from that no puddings. I have very little self control when it comes to food so I need sweet stuff to be not in the house or it’s getting smashed

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#27 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 02:35:06 pm
Lockdown week 3

Weight: 10st11lb - I have gained at least 4lbs during the lockdown. That is to be expected though given the amount of food and drink I have consumed and the lack of big days out. At least I am training heavy! I should have at least a few weeks to get back to my fighting weight before climbing is officially allowed again anyway.

M: Run 9km 500m elevation gain.

T: Walked 7km to pick up my 15kg of weights and cycled back with them. Felt exhausted and slept all afternoon.

W: Shoulder recruitment and core. 5 x 4 travelling pull ups + 2 x 2 sling assisted one arm pull ups each arm. Find weight needed for pulley assisted one-armers (11.75kg left arm, 10.5kg right arm). 2.5 pulley assisted single one-armers on left arm and 4 on right arm. Find weight for pulley assisted one arm hangs on 30mm rung (4kg). This is quite big but the 20mm rung is impossible for me and has no in-cut and I actually just struggle to hang one-armed anyway. Will do this until I can hold the 30mm rung for 5 seconds comfortably on each arm and then add a biro that makes the run 22mm. 5 x pulley assisted hangs (5 secs each arm). Tried to find max. two armed weight added hang and single pull-up on 15mm edge but didn't have enough weight. 5 x 10 seconds hangs + 15kg. 5 x single pull-ups + 15kg. 1 set of repeaters (6 seconds on 4 seconds off for a minute x 6 with 2 minute rests). Run 9km 500m elevation gain.

T: 300 pull-ups. 100 on bar (normal, travelling, sling-assisted one-armers, frenchies, typewriters), 150 on edges (15mm, 20mm, 30mm) +8kg (50), + 4kg (50), body weight (50). 50 pull ups bar (+15kg, 12kg, 10kg, 8kg, 6kg). Run 9km 500m elevation gain.

F: Repeaters (15mm edge, 6 seconds on 4 seconds off for a minute x 6 with 2 minutes rest) 2.5 sets. Gave up halfway through the last set as it felt like bone on wood and my left shoulder was getting cranky. Run 9km 500m elevation gain.

S: Run 20km 1000m elevation gain. Foam rolling + shoulder mobility.

S: Shoulder recruitment + core. 100 pull-ups on the bar (normal, sling assisted one armers, travelling, frenchies, typewriters. 5 x pulley assisted single one armers each arm (11.75kg left, 10.5kg right). Pulley assisted hangs (4kg) (30mm edge x 5 each arm). Took advantage of one litre water bottle offer (buy 6 get 6 free). Found max. hang weight on 15mm edge and max. single pull-up weight on same run. (30kg for hang 5 seconds and 22kg for single pull-up). 100 pull-ups on edges (15mm, 20mm, 30mm - 50 +6kg and 50 body weight).   

A pretty good week's training. It is hard to get the motivation to start the sessions but once I get going it is alright. Also after a month of just pull-ups and hangs it would be nice to actually to go climbing to see if there has been any benefit! A couple of the sessions were about finding max. hangs. Once I get consistent with 15mm hangs + 30kg I will decrease the edge size as opposed to adding more weight as 15kg hanging between my legs and 15 litre bottles in a backpack is awkward and uncomfortable hanging in the doorway. Trying to keep consistent with the running and maintain my base level despite the ban but the discreet circuit I am doing is getting boring. Passed 500 miles (800km) with 145,416ft (44,323m) elevation gain for the year this week. Next aim is 1000km and 50,000m elevation gain. Restrictions on individual sports are easing here now so hopefully this will get easier. They have moved from being against the law to personal responsibility. Hopefully I will be climbing again by the end of the month!

Will Hunt

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#28 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 02:46:37 pm
What's your lockdown loop, Harry? I used to go up Park Road to Dick Hudsons and drop back down Heights Lane to get to Eldwick. Might have to reverse that and gain the height initially by heading up Lady Lane. Not sure my legs would get up Park Road these days!

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#29 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 02:55:17 pm
They have moved from being against the law to personal responsibility. Hopefully I will be climbing again by the end of the month!

Would be interested to know how they're phasing sports/activities back in and how climbers/bikers etc there are responding?

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#30 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 03:19:44 pm
Quote
Would be interested to know how they're phasing sports/activities back in and how climbers/bikers etc there are responding?

It will come into effect tomorrow and it is still unclear about what and what is not permissible. Ski touring and mountain biking are still mentioned as no go sports, although I don't think it is technically illegal. I have not seen climbing specifically mentioned anywhere though. In reality is still going to be very restrictive. You are still only allowed to be in close contact with people you live with and cannot leave your area without a good reason. Therefore, the climbing would have to be in your own area (postcode). I will wait to see how it develops but in the meantime I don't want rock to get in the way of my finger boarding and pull ups!   

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#31 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 03:27:20 pm
M: 300 core movements, 100 press-ups.

T: 100 pull-ups, 50 front lever pulls, 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs

W: 15 pull-ups, BM 2K 6C beastly workout 2 sets. Same cheat holds as before. Lower body and back stretching. 100 press-ups

T: Joe Wicks Core Workout. Painful but too short. 10lb wrist curls

F: 100 Pull-ups, Crimpd small holds - 14mm BW, 10mm BW * 3, 14mm +10lb, 14mm +20lb. CWP inspired one arm hangs with sling assist, BM2K bottom middle * 6 hangs. All hangs half crimp, 7 secs. Lower body stretching

S: 100 press-ups, 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs

S: 50 pull-ups, BM 2K 6C beastly workout 2 sets. Same cheat holds as before. Lower body stretching. Front and lateral raise drop sets

Keeping a tally of pull-ups and press-ups since lockdown, up to 425 and 600 respectively. Pull strength still way down since before wrist injury but it's slowly coming back

Murph

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#32 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 03:47:48 pm
Keeping a tally of pull-ups and press-ups since lockdown, up to 425 and 600 respectively. Pull strength still way down since before wrist injury but it's slowly coming back
Good idea that Ross. Think I might borrow it. Good numbers too keep it up.

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#33 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:05:01 pm


Bottom 1k 18mm edge

I thought that edge was considerd the archetypal 20mm edge, its just a bit rounded? Either way good numbers!

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#34 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:12:59 pm
In the interests of community spirit I’ll rejoin PC if I may..

Been 15 odd months since last PC contribution - strange year -  I’d stopped training and had focussed on trying to get on rock as much as possible, but largely failed due to work and weather.. Still some major highlights at Griff’s inc Mutton Bustin on wet holds, King of Lambs trav + Mutton King

The cosmic irony of lockdown kicking in just as the weather broke hurt enough that I had been planning on the local/obscure option, but sadly read the Covid climbing thread here and felt the only unambiguous option was moratorium, inspired that many others on here, who are just as passionate, were making the sacrifice..

So had a frenetic weekend last week, making home gym in our incomplete but waterproof garage extension; rowing machine, cycling machine, pull-up/dips station, hip stretcher, lifting platform, 5 fingerboards with pulley, mini campus board, small 25 degree board, rings, rope climbing rope, bachar ladder.
Just finished that, then floored to find out my old mentor and much loved friend was one of the first UK doctors to die from the virus; everything has been much more serious since.. Strange couple of weeks at work, closing down my service and preparing for god knows what..

70kg (lost a few pounds prob by avoiding the hospital WHS and daily 5 choccy bars!)

M- nul
T- DL gentle re-intro: 5 sets up to 160 (felt heavy!), 30 min gentle board work.
W- Some deep press-ups, some dips, Fboard BM2k smalls open crimp 11 sets inc (+30kg x 5s) x 3
T- Weighted pull-ups up to (+20 x 3) x 3.  Few rope climbs.
F- DL 11 sets inc 6 singles at 180 - felt good as start to remember the nuances- plenty more in the tank but as I know from painful experience it doesn’t do to get impatient with DL. That’s all my olly weights used up; will have to get imaginative about how to add more weight to the bar. 30 min boardwork. Campus board 3 to 1 drop downs - felt hard ?a hard board or prob just me being poop.
S- hard time with ring muscle-ups but finally managed 3 singles. 6 sets weighted pull-ups inc (+30x3)x3. 2 hours prepping field for planting.

Coming back after a break is always humbling, but done it so many times I’m not bothered - feels great to be doing shit (esp DL ☺️)

Anyway cheers all good to be back

HarryBD

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#35 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:17:53 pm
What's your lockdown loop, Harry? I used to go up Park Road to Dick Hudsons and drop back down Heights Lane to get to Eldwick. Might have to reverse that and gain the height initially by heading up Lady Lane. Not sure my legs would get up Park Road these days!

It's grim, up park lane left at the eldwick rab up heights lane, left down lady lane repeat. you get about 2mins recovery each lap 2mins hard up park lane then keep pressing over the top for 6mins

edit to add I wouldn't want to do my loop in reverse as the park lane surface looks quite loose for now
« Last Edit: April 06, 2020, 04:23:52 pm by HarryBD »

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#36 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:18:41 pm


Bottom 1k 18mm edge

I thought that edge was considerd the archetypal 20mm edge, its just a bit rounded? Either way good numbers!

I've always worked with it being 18mm as I'd read that depth on here (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=28846.0 was the only one I could find quickly) and on reddit a few times. Regardless its the main edge I train on whatever the size  :shrug:

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#37 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:20:22 pm
Didn't actually use the fingerboard this week. Would like to do 2 board sessions and 2 x 30 mins fingerboard this week but not sure if that will be too much too soon for the fingers. Plus a couple of core workouts plus some pull ups plus a bit of cardio to keep weight down. Not sure how it will all fit in.

My advice would be ease yourself into it carefully. From what you always used to post pre-lockdown am I right in saying you were climbing outside maybe twice a week?

If so, two fingerboard sessions and two board sessions is a big increase in both volume and intensity, which you shouldn't underestimate. When I first started fingerboarding I spent months gradually easing into it, doing sub maximal work just getting used to form and using the thing. Feel like that has definitely paid dividends in subsequent years.

Then again, you've been climbing for a long time so you should be pretty well adapted already it might just be a case of being cautious.

Just finished that, then floored to find out my old mentor and much loved friend was one of the first UK doctors to die from the virus; everything has been much more serious since..

Sorry to read that, condolences. Welcome back and hope it helps.

Will Hunt

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#38 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:39:01 pm
What's your lockdown loop, Harry? I used to go up Park Road to Dick Hudsons and drop back down Heights Lane to get to Eldwick. Might have to reverse that and gain the height initially by heading up Lady Lane. Not sure my legs would get up Park Road these days!

It's grim, up park lane left at the eldwick rab up heights lane, left down lady lane repeat. you get about 2mins recovery each lap 2mins hard up park lane then keep pressing over the top for 6mins

Fuck that  :lol:


Didn't actually use the fingerboard this week. Would like to do 2 board sessions and 2 x 30 mins fingerboard this week but not sure if that will be too much too soon for the fingers. Plus a couple of core workouts plus some pull ups plus a bit of cardio to keep weight down. Not sure how it will all fit in.

My advice would be ease yourself into it carefully. From what you always used to post pre-lockdown am I right in saying you were climbing outside maybe twice a week?

If so, two fingerboard sessions and two board sessions is a big increase in both volume and intensity, which you shouldn't underestimate. When I first started fingerboarding I spent months gradually easing into it, doing sub maximal work just getting used to form and using the thing. Feel like that has definitely paid dividends in subsequent years.

Then again, you've been climbing for a long time so you should be pretty well adapted already it might just be a case of being cautious.

Wise words. It probably sounds like a lot but each session is quite short. So I did some fingerboarding today and it looked like 15 mins of hanging on a variety of edges. Then experimented some more with the monos. Found that middle finger is stronger so did some assisted hangs on index finger and ring finger. This was a 7 second hang (which I was generally doing comfortably, could have hung for longer) followed by a minute and a half or so of rest. Feet were on the floor but in front of me on a set of scales - the scales were reading about 35kg so I guess I'm hanging about 16kg on each finger? I did about 5 hangs on each finger. Moved the scales a bit closer for the weaker ring fingers but didn't check the weight. Then finished with about 5 hangs on the BM2k small crimps with 10kg added - 7s hang each time.

I'm not particularly strict on rest times so sometimes end up taking more or less due to boredom/tiredness. Thus I don't feel like I'm getting especially tired - not sure if this is good for the effectiveness of the training.

So overall it didn't feel like I worked very hard and it didn't take very long. With so much opportunity to do bits and pieces over a lunchtime, the MO is to do high frequency, medium intensity, low volume. Board sessions tend to be about an hour and a half inc warm up time.

Would you still say this sounded like too much and maybe focus on doing fewer sessions and making them harder work. I need dem gainzzzzz, Nick.

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#39 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:44:28 pm
What Nick said. Spend a month doing the same exercises - get used to the pain of the holds - getting good form on shoulders etc..

If it’s a 6 month indoor training scenario (likely) then what’s a few sessions getting you body used to it.

I’ve spent the first two weeks doing pretty much the same thing. Gradually ramping up the difficulty in each session until I feel I’m close but not at my limit. For me that’s been three finger sessions and three one arm sessions. I’m planning to do the same for the next two weeks then up the ante.

For context - yesterday I couldn’t hold one of the BM crimps as if felt like bone on wood. Painful - having used the holds too much. Need to get used to the equipment and the stresses on the body.

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#40 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:55:23 pm
home gym in our incomplete but waterproof garage extension; rowing machine, cycling machine, pull-up/dips station, hip stretcher, lifting platform, 5 fingerboards with pulley, mini campus board, small 25 degree board, rings, rope climbing rope, bachar ladder.

 8)

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#41 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:56:41 pm
That sounds okay Will for a standard session. Although personally I found repeaters to be a good way of getting into it and building up form and tolerance, as your time under tension is so much higher. Would recommend adding them in.

I don't feel like I'm getting especially tired - not sure if this is good for the effectiveness of the training.

So overall it didn't feel like I worked very hard and it didn't take very long.

For pure strength sessions (when you're getting up to max) each rep should feel really fucking hard, like you could only go for a couple of seconds more, but you can almost then recover in a minute or two and you finish without really feeling tired, but somewhat powered out. Repeaters slightly down that spectrum where the individual reps are okay but the end of each set feels pretty hard and you feel more worked at the end of the session but still power out not tired. 

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#42 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 05:16:41 pm
My update:

M - warm up with pull ups and push ups, general hangs. Then on low BM2k edge half crimp did 20s +5kg, +10kg, +15kg & 3x +20kg. All pleasantly steady. Next same edge and grip did 10s +27kg and 3x 10s +30.5kg. New PB and again pretty steady felt like I could have gone longer. Warmed down doing 4x 10r pull ups.

T - nothing

W - repeaters half crimp low BM2k edge 1x 7/3 +10kg, 1x 7/3 +19kg and 4x 7/3 +15kg (completed all the hangs bar the last hang of the last set so felt like I'd got the intensity right), all superset w/ 5r leg raises (locked off on a bar) +4kg ankle weights & 20 push ups

T & F - nothing

S - did a 20 min HIIT circuit with girlfriend, exposing my complete lack of general fitness. Then warm up with pull ups and push ups, general hangs, etc.. Then on low BM2k edge half crimp did 20s +5kg, +10kg, +15kg & 4x +20kg. Steady away again. Next as Monday same edge and grip did 10s +27kg and 5x 10s +30.5kg. Last hang bit of a fight but completed. Finished with 3 sets of 6 pull ups on the same edges and 10r 11kg dumbbell overhead presses.

S - pressed for time as left it late but repeated Tuesday's session keeping rest times to 2.5mins instead of longer as previously. Repeaters half crimp low BM2k edge 1x 7/3 +10kg, 4x 7/3 +15kg & last 1x 7/3 +15kg on a 19mm edge instead, all superset w/ 5r leg raises (locked off on a bar) +4.5kg ankle weights & 20 push ups.

Stronger than I ever have been on that low BM2k edge but need to mix it up next week really, my skin being pretty sore in a few specific spots for one thing! Meant to do some yoga this week as well but didn't. At least got a good walk in every day.

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#43 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 05:25:25 pm
Quote
Would be interested to know how they're phasing sports/activities back in and how climbers/bikers etc there are responding?

It will come into effect tomorrow and it is still unclear about what and what is not permissible. Ski touring and mountain biking are still mentioned as no go sports, although I don't think it is technically illegal. I have not seen climbing specifically mentioned anywhere though. In reality is still going to be very restrictive. You are still only allowed to be in close contact with people you live with and cannot leave your area without a good reason. Therefore, the climbing would have to be in your own area (postcode). I will wait to see how it develops but in the meantime I don't want rock to get in the way of my finger boarding and pull ups!

Cheers John. Doesn't fill me with optimism for going climbing any time soon over here. Weather's totally mint too.  :wall: :chair:

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#44 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 05:27:03 pm
The weather has been absolutely outrageous since the lockdown started!

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#45 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 06:48:21 pm
The weather has been absolutely outrageous since the lockdown started!

Paper over the windows :)

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#46 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 08, 2020, 11:26:46 am
This?
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/17-bell-hagg/boulders/230-golf-course#.XosONSTTXYU

Yep, can’t picture those problems exactly...

I found those PeakBouldering problems yesterday- on a natural boulder right below the wall so actually easier to access without walking through the golf course (it’s directly opposite 85 Redmires Road if anyone’s interested post-lockdown) and high enough up the bank to be feasible without upsetting anyone when the leaves are on the trees as the site suggests.

The quarried rock I noticed the other day is comically unfeasible- as I wandered over to take pictures of it yesterday I was instructed to “keep off the green” by another trespassing member of the public:lol:

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#47 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 08, 2020, 11:29:25 am
Are you normally not allowed to walk on golf courses there then?

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#48 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 08, 2020, 11:49:32 am
Paper over the windows :)
That reminds me about having sex in the car in busy parkings as a teenager.

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#49 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 08, 2020, 08:21:55 pm
Late post....

I’ve had a bit of a break from here for the last few months, but like some others being in lockdown has given my a lot of psych for training in the ways I still can, so I’m back at least for a bit!

Goals

Train hard in lockdown


M - Got beastmaker set up in isolation digs. Foot on circuit around board to warm up. Then freshly baked madeleines and strong coffee. Almost makes up for my cancelled font trip. After that, max hangs. I’m doing +15kg as max weight now. Used to be 20kg, but I reckon still more than 5kg fatter. Front lever progressions on rock rings. HIIT session, 10x burpees, press ups, plank rows (10kg). Three sets. Yoga evening.

T - Rest. Long day at work.

W - Attempted Anderson style hangs. Traps highly limiting, probably from HIIT last week. Converted to some foot on finger board circuits. Yoga I think. Night shift.

T - nothing. Night shift.

F - Slept most of day by mistake.

S - Yoga in sunshine to start day. Anderson repeaters. So far away from PB. Went to bigger holds to complete so at least getting something done. Be cool to see this progress. 10kg dumbbell bench press 15 reps x3. Don’t have heavier weight.

S - More yoga in the sun. Dead hangs, 8x10sec . (+weight 0, 10, 10, 15(6sec), 10(lots of shoulders?), 15(6sec), 10, 10). Slightly worse than Monday but day two on. Might have rested but working Monday long day and Tuesday night.

Feels like a good start after some time off. Not pushing too hard where I’m below PBS. I’ve never been very structured in my training and have really noticed effects of sleep deprivation. Gonna do what I can, when I can.

 

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