UKBouldering.com

Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April (Read 7489 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 09:23:47 am
11.7-8 Average 161.5 (up 2.0lbs)

M. AM Northern General for dressing change. Nurse impressed with how well finger was healing. No need to go back unless it gets infected
PM. Online mind meld with the Kettle. He suggested I resumed training.
Eve. Assisted one armers and recruitment and speed pulls fingerboard session. Found a use for the lattice rung. The bevel on the jug meant I could do hangs loading the first joint of my mid two rather than weighting the injured tips. Far from ideal and hurts a bit.

T. Made a TRX/rings out of string and plastic tube. Nearly crushed my bad finger with a barbell sorting out a set up for hip thrusts. Also had to drop the barbell to get out of a back squat. Decided that front squat was safer. Experimented with the exercises John recommended - static overhead press, front squat, hip thrust, straight leg deadlift and something approximating Y and T on rings facing down and up.

W.

T. Eve Assisted one armers. Fingerboard - recruitment and speed pulls

F. Eve. Weights.

S.

S.

Easing back into it. Finger recovering well but still a few weeks before I can climb on it.


« Last Edit: April 06, 2020, 09:30:45 am by shark »

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#1 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 09:38:54 am
Weighed myself this week and weight is down to 66/67kg. So have lost 2-3kg at some point.

M - board session playing on new BM holds. They're quite generous. Good to do big moves to and from. Mostly pinches so good for working that weakness. Finished a project from last week. Need to set some harder things. Stopped as was getting some pain in RH middle finger.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-X3b3ljBJk/?igshid=we91z77vffh5

T - core and stretching

W - rest. A few pull ups for the LMC comp.

T- board. Lots of fun. Set two things that will hopefully take some time. Finished Lockdown 2 which is now called Totally Zen.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-ew_V0D9rs/?igshid=pnyqa8q7ctq

F - experimented with weighted pull ups. Warmed up and did a few sets with 10kg added. Managed 7 on the best set.

S - family walk. Saw a man climbing on an obscure buttress. Cracked out the sniper rifle and loaded in a clip of hollow point rounds. He just exploded.

S- morning ride of about 15 miles. Did some stretching when home and squeezed in just a little core before lunch.

Didn't actually use the fingerboard this week. Would like to do 2 board sessions and 2 x 30 mins fingerboard this week but not sure if that will be too much too soon for the fingers. Plus a couple of core workouts plus some pull ups plus a bit of cardio to keep weight down. Not sure how it will all fit in.

Nutty

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 359
  • Karma: +17/-0
#2 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 09:45:43 am
Goals: Get strong, don't get injured, stay healthy and sane.

M: Put 14 new footholds up on the garden board.
T: Garden board session. Managed to do one of my benchmark problems second go which indicates progress. Finished session when left middle finger felt slightly sore around DIP joint.
W: Rest
T: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 25mm edge.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 20mm edge. Forgot that I was supposed to be dropping the edge size down this session so did a couple of bodyweight +20% hangs on the 25mm edge before remembering and doing the 20mm hangs.

Good to get out on the board this week. Left middle finger seems ok. Making steady progress on the fingerboard - plan is to do 3 more sessions on the 20mm edge (2 this week ,1 next) before decreasing edge size again to 15mm.

Murph

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 653
  • Karma: +66/-0
#3 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 09:49:26 am
Jealous of any of you losing weight during confinement. Eating and drinking are two of the only things I seem psyched for. Any tips?

M-kettlebells
T-5k run
W-kettlebells
T-5k run
F-kettlebells
S-5k run
S-

I have a bm1k, bm2k, bm micros, a trx and a garage board that I'm not using. I'm not really sure what the malfunction is...

mr chaz

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 452
  • Karma: +59/-0
#4 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 09:57:52 am
Nice one Shark.

Goals: i) Exercise everyday and ii) End lockdown fitter than I started.

M. Fingerboard - max one arm hangs on 18 mm edge with 7kg assistance pulley.
T. 20 minute yoga sesh with gf, followed by 20 minute full body HIIT.
W. Fingerboard - 2 arm hangs aiming for 20 s on various holds.
T. 20 minute Kettlebell workout. Feel like I need a 12kg weight to get the most out of this (biggest we've got is an 8kg).
F. Fingerboard - max 1 arm hangs on 18 mm edge with 7kg assistance pulley.
S. 15 minute lower body HIIT routine, followed by 12 minute hip mobility routine (saw some vast improvements since last week with this).
S. Watched Stone Love  :bow:. Fingerboard - repeaters, managed to complete 2 sets (each set takes 8 mins) before I felt like I was either going to throw up or shit myself. Followed by a quick 12 minute HIIT routine with the gf.

Feeling truly excellent after 2 weeks of this. I'm feeling really motivated to carry on (admittedly the weather is making it easy) and also to unlock some greatly needed hip flexibility (probably my single biggest climbing weakness and something I've never addressed).

gollum

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 369
  • Karma: +24/-0
#5 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 10:15:01 am
Aim to make the very most I can of being inside. Let’s see how long I can be disciplined enough and let’s see what the outcome look like.

Plan is actually as follows:
Weekdays : 10 miles combining walk and run.
Alternate chest and shoulders with back and arms
Alternate light core work/heavy finger work with heavy finger work/light core work

Weekends : Just the walk/run

M - 10k treadmill run at a steady pace.
Weights with body weight, bands and light kettle bells. Work for an hour on chest exercises. Had to get quite creative and never realised quite how hard bench pressing with kettlebells is.
Afternoon, an hours walk on treadmill at Backyard Ultra pace.
Beastmaker repeaters. It’s been a while so keep on bigger holds for each grip position but get them all done relatively comfortable so will be pushing a bit harder over coming weeks. Finish off with some planks and other light core exercises.

T - Treadmill 10k early on in the morning. Then start work on something from Andy Pollitt’s ‘Punks in the Gym’ where he would do 7 pull ups every minute for 50 minutes, I decide to start with 5 reps working my way around the doorways off the hall, changing every 10 minutes. I manage to get to get to the end. Some door frames are much more painful than others. Finish off the morning training with some curls and tricep presses.
Afternoon is heavy core, light fingers. Do some lever raises for 3x3 followed by planks, crunches, bicycles etc. Finish with some benchmarking on 30 second holds with Ash’s mono gadget. Interesting results.
Complete the afternoon with an hour long walk on the treadmill.

W - Treadmill hour first half at M pace, second half at just over 10k pace and then as haven’t been out for five days go straight for 5k around the block at a steady pace.
Bit of snowboarding or rather playing Steep on the XBox. Thanks SA Chris for the recommendation. Fair to say I’m a better snowboarder than I am a gamer. Entertaining and distracting though.
Then do an hours weights working chest and shoulders. Follow this with a bit of light core work.
Last session of the day is a repeater session on Beastmaker. Pretty much the same as Monday although three in a set on the 10mm edge.

T - How to change the programme, I can’t so just change the order.
Start the day with pull ups à la AP. EMOM for 50 sets, first 25 for 5 reps, last 25 for 6. Manage to find a bar that seems to stay in door frame, so hands don’t hurt today. Finish this session with some locks on the bar at 90 degrees. Arms are a tremblin’ when I finish.
Move on to a core session doing lever pulls, planks etc etc and followed up with a really old school 2x75 sit ups....... well they seemed to work for me twenty years ago.
Then first run of the day with 30 minutes at 10k pace.
Break for lunch, watch the news and then back on it.
But of biceps and triceps work with bands and kettlebells. Can definitely train these small muscles effectively despite limited kit.
Then on to another hour on the treadmill running at marathon pace.
Final exercise of the day is a bit of work with the mono tool, doing 30 second hangs with a range of weights for two reps. All pretty light but a bit heavier than Tuesday.

F - Treadmill 10k first thing. Then on to chest and shoulder work with bands, kettlebells and body weight exercises. Finish off the morning with some light core work.
After lunch spend an hour walking at pace on the treadmill whilst watching Doctor Sleep. Finish off exercise for the day with repeaters on the Beastmaker.

S - 5k around the block, picking up some essentials for elderly neighbours.

S - Treadmill 10k, plus short run walk to top up distance to 100k

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2814
  • Karma: +159/-4
#6 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 10:18:00 am
Fancy swapping houses Murph?!    :o good stuff everyone.

Had to check my diary to see what i did this week as all the days are mingling into one!

M- rest. Stretched everything and did some foam rolling.

T- max hangs. Back to two arms for a bit of a change. Used the BM2K slot with a battery in it so approx 20mm. Just a benchmarking session, but up to 30kg which was pleasing as was near enough my previous 2A max, which was on a 23mm incut edge. Inspired by JohnM's regime, finished off with 50 pullups and 40 pressups. Stretched in the evening.

W- repeaters. Anderson hangs using BM2K bottom outside, 35 slopers snd battery edge. Started on bodyweight and completed the whole set which was pleasing. Slopers felt nails with 10kg added. Some experimentation on the newly constructed TRX to finish: IYT and rows. Stretched in the evening.

T- core. Abripperx for the first time in a few weeks. Got taken to the cleaners. Why is it so hard?!

F- max hangs. 30kg. Just about completed the set, will do it again before adding more weight though. Did 10 pullups on bottom outside edge to see if I could; has to be so slow and controlled. Feels dangerous! 50 normal pullups and some TRX to finish. Good session. Stretched in evening.

S- repeaters. Anderson hangs again. Added 1.25kg as base weight. Fine on the bottom outside and battery edge but weak as piss on the slopers, didnt even complete the first set! Must have been a bit wasted from the day before. Some brief TRX to finish. Stretched in evening.

S- rest. Easy hour or so on the bike and stretching.

Good week, seem to have got into a good 2 on, 1 off routine with max hangs on day 1 and repeaters on day 2. Will go up in the air this week though as giving blood today. Home made TRX works well; to anyone else considering it, rolled up magazines work brilliantly as handles. A Summit would be perfect. More of the same this week, if anyone has a good structured TRX session please feel free to share.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#7 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 10:19:35 am
Jealous of any of you losing weight during confinement. Eating and drinking are two of the only things I seem psyched for. Any tips?

Ive lost 0.5-1 kg in the last two weeks. Why? For me...

I’m doing the Joe Wicks PE hiit thing every morning.

I don’t drink any more (though have had the odd half glass of wine with some pasta).

No eating out (lunch at work or otherwise) and one takeaway a week (sat night curry treat).

Total control of diet... indo the shopping and the cooking. No chocs or biscuits on the list. Few of any puddings. Sensible breakfast, light lunch. Early normal sized dinner.

Childcare. Despite confinement - every day I have the boy the Fitbit tells me I’m doing 10k steps or more. Which is 3-4 days a week. Despite not getting out for a walk or run at all.

Fingerbord 3 times a week.

I dunno - no silver bullets there - just lots of little things.

I do - however - have a penchant for a mini magnum after the lad has finally gone to sleep.

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 610
  • Karma: +33/-0
#8 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 10:28:12 am
M: rest
T: rest
W: BM1k max hangs upto 25kg added x3, back 2 on same edge -18kgx3. Muscle ups 3x5, IYT on rings 3x12, push ups on rings 3x12
T: rest
F: BM1k max hangs upto 25kg added x3
S: pistol squats 3x5 with 5kg added
S: BM1k max hangs upto 25kg added x6, back 2 on same edge 22kgx3. Weighted pull ups 3x5, 1 arm rows 3x5, 2 arm rows 3x12

A2 is still feeling mildly sore to touch and will add more weight to hangs once the discomfort passes.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#9 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 10:35:26 am
What edge for you max hangs on the 1K Yetix?

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#10 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 10:42:55 am
Jealous of any of you losing weight during confinement. Eating and drinking are two of the only things I seem psyched for. Any tips?

Had this discussion with John. He was of the view that if training for strength then best to forget about dieting (obviously eat healthy with plenty of protein).

As I don’t know when I can climb again because of the injury and lockdown I’ve come round to his way of thinking and hence put on 2lb this week.

Reckon I’ll grind out 1lb weight loss a week for a couple of months when I start climbing outside again aiming sub 11 stone again in the autumn.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#11 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 11:01:21 am
I am compelled to say that it's not about weight loss, it's about fat loss, if one wants to do things right and for the long term.
Anyway...

Power Club

Mon - very tired. TB DL 5x5 (90 kg), 10 x 70 kg, 20 x 60. Bar work. Core.
Tue - recovery session, light boxing bag.
Wed - ab wheel static + normal, heavy. Press ups gym style, hard. Garage, back3, front3, normal hang, 10" each back to back. Rest, x10. Lateral raises gym style. Landmine complex, fantastic.
Thu - boxing bag, power.
Fri - lateral raises, push ups, triceps. TB DL finisher 30" 80 kg (60%) x 5 x10. Absolutely brutal, completed it but it was fucking hard. So happy, previous test with 80 kg was regular EMOM 80 x5 x 12. So this time 50 reps in 4'30" instead of 60 in 9'. No wonder I have doping-limit hematocrit.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - tired. Two laps on circuit. Unsurprisingly no progress. Weights.

Enjoying the board at the moment, but running out of training fantasy a bit.
Last rest day was March the 3rd...

Murph

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 653
  • Karma: +66/-0
#12 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 11:12:17 am
Thanks chaps thanks nibs. Yes it is about fat loss. Rather I could rephrase mine to say "jealous of anyone not packing on lard"  TT - solid advice there. So eating chocolate biscuits and drinking beer because weekend are things I probably should take off my to do list. I'll not sweat a couple of kilos but have struggled with my weight for years - sort of all or nothing. Need to get out of that for the next few months and make the best of it.

Spider- I know right - lead a horse to water and all that. should get stuck in really!

Ok thanks all for the motivational feedback. This week I will do my best. Going to come out of this stronger and hit some fingerboard benchmarks.

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 610
  • Karma: +33/-0
#13 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 11:13:09 am
What edge for you max hangs on the 1K Yetix?

Bottom 1k 18mm edge

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#14 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 11:42:55 am
Started feeling ill last Sunday. Not Coronavirus symptoms and didn’t turn into anything that stopped me working every day but didn’t feel up to training and obviously stayed completely indoors for a week.  :yawn:

M-W Nothing

T- Deadlift. Did two reps of 50, 70, 80 & 90kg then one of 100kg which equals my post-injury PB. Couldn’t lift it again.

F- Rest.

S- 3x6 pull-ups, 3x25 push-ups. Didn’t stretch and went to bed at 3.  :oops:

S- Sore and tired. Walked to Bell Hagg which was fucking amazing after a week indoors. As the golf course I walk across to get there is closed I was able to wander back across the whole course rather than just using the one right of way across it- last time this was possible was early 2018 when it was one big snowdrift. Turns out there’s a very small quarry on there with potential for three or four boulder problems- the Catch 22 being that when we can climb again the course will be open again and it’s not only above one of the greens it’s also visible from peoples houses.  :lol:

Rock climbing is feeling very distant at the moment so lacking motivation and imagination for training- fiddling about in the studio much more appealing. Also eating Easter eggs every day. Not ill or completely cooped up this week so should get more exercise done.

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 874
  • Karma: +128/-0
#15 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 12:12:35 pm
Quote from: cheque

S- Sore and tired. Walked to Bell Hagg which was fucking amazing after a week indoors. As the golf course I walk across to get there is closed I was able to wander back across the whole course rather than just using the one right of way across it- last time this was possible was early 2018 when it was one big snowdrift. Turns out there’s a very small quarry on there with potential for three or four boulder problems- the Catch 22 being that when we can climb again the course will be open again and it’s not only above one of the greens it’s also visible from peoples houses
This?
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/17-bell-hagg/boulders/230-golf-course#.XosONSTTXYU

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#16 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 12:39:50 pm
STG: to be able to hang all the holds on the BM2K (across the respective range of finger arrangements) for 5 seconds. Haven't tried yet.

M: Run. Weighted max hangs. 2 handed, 10 sec, 20 mm, +45 kg, 8 sets. Felt fine.
T: Run.
W: Run. Crimpd's varied grip work out. Using homemade ~11 mm edge. Front three half crimp felt pretty fierce.
T: Run.
F: Run. Weighted max hangs. 2 handed, 10 sec, 20 mm, +50 kg, 4 sets at max. 2 sets at 45 kg.   
S: Run
S: weighted pull ups. +20 kg (and above) for 6 sets of 5 (as wide as possible to prevent elbows locking past 90 degrees). Mono no hangs, open handed. Went up to 15 kg on index and mid. Only went up to 7.5 kg on ring, I noticed it hurts a tad if I try and keep the rest of my fingers curled. 8 sets of 7 seconds.

Did various stretching and core stuff throughout the week, but can't remember which days as my life is a blur.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#17 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 12:42:14 pm
What edge for you max hangs on the 1K Yetix?

Bottom 1k 18mm edge

Effort. I think I got up to about 15kgs on them last year then stopped! I can’t hang them with my back 3 without any assistance - my hands are so index and middle loaded!

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#18 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 12:44:24 pm
This?
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/17-bell-hagg/boulders/230-golf-course#.XosONSTTXYU

Yep, can’t picture those problems exactly (there are two arêtes) but I imagine it’s easy if you read the descriptions when there. There’s also a friable-looking flake but it’s probably only a “fore”.  ;)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29220
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#19 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:02:27 pm
Lets not start putting terrible puns about here.

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 610
  • Karma: +33/-0
#20 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:03:32 pm
What edge for you max hangs on the 1K Yetix?

Bottom 1k 18mm edge

Effort. I think I got up to about 15kgs on them last year then stopped! I can’t hang them with my back 3 without any assistance - my hands are so index and middle loaded!

Before I hurt my finger I was upto 34kg added in 4F HC, and feels like I could add more atm but would become uncomfortable, so as this is a marathon not a sprint gonna rehab it nice and slowly and slowly increase the load up!

Back 2 I'm taking 22kg off, so that's a total weight hang of 43ish kg I think on those, so I think like you I'm mostly loading my front two! (would mean in theory front 2 were taking 56ish kg) not sure if this is normal or not, but just thought seeing as I don't want to increase the load on the middle fingers atm that I could increase the back 2 load and see if I experience some 4 finger improvement, if not maybe it'll make my ring finger a little less injure prone in the future maybe.

I'd like for future me to get to Murph numbers on the smaller edge!

Murph

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 653
  • Karma: +66/-0
#21 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:09:03 pm
I'd like for future me to get to Murph numbers on the smaller edge!
Likewise! A shadow of my former. Best of luck.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#22 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:10:59 pm
M - Joe Wicks with kids
hip mobility
shoulder massage then new set of mobility exercises, as others didn't seem to be hitting the right areas
evening walk

T Legs hurt, not going walking again
hip mobility

W Leg still hurt

Andersons session 8. Went backwards again. Decided it was time to move on
TRX
Weigted pullups, managed 4x5 +21kg and 4.75 of the last set.
Core?

Th hip mobility

F -
Brief board warm up, tried a couple of hard problems, did the moves but snap not there as expected
max hangs, scores up 1kg on F3 and 4f 1/2 crimps and 2kg on M2 drags but I don't know whjat to make of that yet, I seem to fluctuate session to session and some days the wood just feels grippier. But I suppose encouraging that I could open a new block seemingly ahead, hopefully this was a low day and/or the Andersons have laid foundation for further improvements.
DL
OH squat
Core

S shoulder and hip massage and mobility

S - Intended to train but woke with a cricked upper back and sore left elbow, elbow cam and went so nothing to worry about, tried freeing the back during the day but the knot persisted.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#23 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:11:25 pm
Lets not start putting terrible puns about here.

had to be eagle eyed to spot that one

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 610
  • Karma: +33/-0
#24 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:12:17 pm
I'd like for future me to get to Murph numbers on the smaller edge!
Likewise! A shadow of my former. Best of luck.

I'm sure it'll come back fast once you get cracking again!

HarryBD

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 87
  • Karma: +5/-0
#25 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:42:41 pm
Diary still hasn’t arrived so what training I’ve done is scribbled down on a post it (I thought I’d done more than a single post it notes width of training)

M - bike 4 x my lockdown lap, 100 of each pull-up press-up crunch and squat. Not doing this again as it promoted bad form for me. Max hangs before this 2A 6x10s at bw half crimp felt steady
T - core BD beta plus 3x8 hanging leg raises and LMC pull-ups challenge (14)
W - 4 x Lockdown lap on bike, 5x 10 pull-ups, 2 x 25 press-ups, max hangs as above BD core
T - Loop of baildon on the bike.
F - Pull-ups, 5x10 with 8 kg, BD beta core
S - shit mood and didn’t want to do anything but made myself get out for two lockdown loops on the bike and felt better after this so did max hangs as above. Ready to add a little weight there.
S - longer ride round Bolton Abbey really enjoyed it and waved at lots of friendly cyclists not holding traffic up. BD core

Also did some sort of stretching most days but when my diary arrives this’ll be more focused

HarryBD

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 87
  • Karma: +5/-0
#26 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 01:46:33 pm
Murph I’ve self imposed a booze ban. I’m not a big drinker but do like citrusy IPAs and was finding myself having a fair bit. Quite like the Punk AF chilled as a bit of a reward having done some reasonable exercise. Will be having an Easter egg each this weekend but apart from that no puddings. I have very little self control when it comes to food so I need sweet stuff to be not in the house or it’s getting smashed

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#27 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 02:35:06 pm
Lockdown week 3

Weight: 10st11lb - I have gained at least 4lbs during the lockdown. That is to be expected though given the amount of food and drink I have consumed and the lack of big days out. At least I am training heavy! I should have at least a few weeks to get back to my fighting weight before climbing is officially allowed again anyway.

M: Run 9km 500m elevation gain.

T: Walked 7km to pick up my 15kg of weights and cycled back with them. Felt exhausted and slept all afternoon.

W: Shoulder recruitment and core. 5 x 4 travelling pull ups + 2 x 2 sling assisted one arm pull ups each arm. Find weight needed for pulley assisted one-armers (11.75kg left arm, 10.5kg right arm). 2.5 pulley assisted single one-armers on left arm and 4 on right arm. Find weight for pulley assisted one arm hangs on 30mm rung (4kg). This is quite big but the 20mm rung is impossible for me and has no in-cut and I actually just struggle to hang one-armed anyway. Will do this until I can hold the 30mm rung for 5 seconds comfortably on each arm and then add a biro that makes the run 22mm. 5 x pulley assisted hangs (5 secs each arm). Tried to find max. two armed weight added hang and single pull-up on 15mm edge but didn't have enough weight. 5 x 10 seconds hangs + 15kg. 5 x single pull-ups + 15kg. 1 set of repeaters (6 seconds on 4 seconds off for a minute x 6 with 2 minute rests). Run 9km 500m elevation gain.

T: 300 pull-ups. 100 on bar (normal, travelling, sling-assisted one-armers, frenchies, typewriters), 150 on edges (15mm, 20mm, 30mm) +8kg (50), + 4kg (50), body weight (50). 50 pull ups bar (+15kg, 12kg, 10kg, 8kg, 6kg). Run 9km 500m elevation gain.

F: Repeaters (15mm edge, 6 seconds on 4 seconds off for a minute x 6 with 2 minutes rest) 2.5 sets. Gave up halfway through the last set as it felt like bone on wood and my left shoulder was getting cranky. Run 9km 500m elevation gain.

S: Run 20km 1000m elevation gain. Foam rolling + shoulder mobility.

S: Shoulder recruitment + core. 100 pull-ups on the bar (normal, sling assisted one armers, travelling, frenchies, typewriters. 5 x pulley assisted single one armers each arm (11.75kg left, 10.5kg right). Pulley assisted hangs (4kg) (30mm edge x 5 each arm). Took advantage of one litre water bottle offer (buy 6 get 6 free). Found max. hang weight on 15mm edge and max. single pull-up weight on same run. (30kg for hang 5 seconds and 22kg for single pull-up). 100 pull-ups on edges (15mm, 20mm, 30mm - 50 +6kg and 50 body weight).   

A pretty good week's training. It is hard to get the motivation to start the sessions but once I get going it is alright. Also after a month of just pull-ups and hangs it would be nice to actually to go climbing to see if there has been any benefit! A couple of the sessions were about finding max. hangs. Once I get consistent with 15mm hangs + 30kg I will decrease the edge size as opposed to adding more weight as 15kg hanging between my legs and 15 litre bottles in a backpack is awkward and uncomfortable hanging in the doorway. Trying to keep consistent with the running and maintain my base level despite the ban but the discreet circuit I am doing is getting boring. Passed 500 miles (800km) with 145,416ft (44,323m) elevation gain for the year this week. Next aim is 1000km and 50,000m elevation gain. Restrictions on individual sports are easing here now so hopefully this will get easier. They have moved from being against the law to personal responsibility. Hopefully I will be climbing again by the end of the month!

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#28 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 02:46:37 pm
What's your lockdown loop, Harry? I used to go up Park Road to Dick Hudsons and drop back down Heights Lane to get to Eldwick. Might have to reverse that and gain the height initially by heading up Lady Lane. Not sure my legs would get up Park Road these days!

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4286
  • Karma: +341/-25
#29 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 02:55:17 pm
They have moved from being against the law to personal responsibility. Hopefully I will be climbing again by the end of the month!

Would be interested to know how they're phasing sports/activities back in and how climbers/bikers etc there are responding?

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#30 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 03:19:44 pm
Quote
Would be interested to know how they're phasing sports/activities back in and how climbers/bikers etc there are responding?

It will come into effect tomorrow and it is still unclear about what and what is not permissible. Ski touring and mountain biking are still mentioned as no go sports, although I don't think it is technically illegal. I have not seen climbing specifically mentioned anywhere though. In reality is still going to be very restrictive. You are still only allowed to be in close contact with people you live with and cannot leave your area without a good reason. Therefore, the climbing would have to be in your own area (postcode). I will wait to see how it develops but in the meantime I don't want rock to get in the way of my finger boarding and pull ups!   

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#31 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 03:27:20 pm
M: 300 core movements, 100 press-ups.

T: 100 pull-ups, 50 front lever pulls, 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs

W: 15 pull-ups, BM 2K 6C beastly workout 2 sets. Same cheat holds as before. Lower body and back stretching. 100 press-ups

T: Joe Wicks Core Workout. Painful but too short. 10lb wrist curls

F: 100 Pull-ups, Crimpd small holds - 14mm BW, 10mm BW * 3, 14mm +10lb, 14mm +20lb. CWP inspired one arm hangs with sling assist, BM2K bottom middle * 6 hangs. All hangs half crimp, 7 secs. Lower body stretching

S: 100 press-ups, 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs

S: 50 pull-ups, BM 2K 6C beastly workout 2 sets. Same cheat holds as before. Lower body stretching. Front and lateral raise drop sets

Keeping a tally of pull-ups and press-ups since lockdown, up to 425 and 600 respectively. Pull strength still way down since before wrist injury but it's slowly coming back

Murph

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 653
  • Karma: +66/-0
#32 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 03:47:48 pm
Keeping a tally of pull-ups and press-ups since lockdown, up to 425 and 600 respectively. Pull strength still way down since before wrist injury but it's slowly coming back
Good idea that Ross. Think I might borrow it. Good numbers too keep it up.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2814
  • Karma: +159/-4
#33 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:05:01 pm


Bottom 1k 18mm edge

I thought that edge was considerd the archetypal 20mm edge, its just a bit rounded? Either way good numbers!

measles23

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 264
  • Karma: +45/-1
#34 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:12:59 pm
In the interests of community spirit I’ll rejoin PC if I may..

Been 15 odd months since last PC contribution - strange year -  I’d stopped training and had focussed on trying to get on rock as much as possible, but largely failed due to work and weather.. Still some major highlights at Griff’s inc Mutton Bustin on wet holds, King of Lambs trav + Mutton King

The cosmic irony of lockdown kicking in just as the weather broke hurt enough that I had been planning on the local/obscure option, but sadly read the Covid climbing thread here and felt the only unambiguous option was moratorium, inspired that many others on here, who are just as passionate, were making the sacrifice..

So had a frenetic weekend last week, making home gym in our incomplete but waterproof garage extension; rowing machine, cycling machine, pull-up/dips station, hip stretcher, lifting platform, 5 fingerboards with pulley, mini campus board, small 25 degree board, rings, rope climbing rope, bachar ladder.
Just finished that, then floored to find out my old mentor and much loved friend was one of the first UK doctors to die from the virus; everything has been much more serious since.. Strange couple of weeks at work, closing down my service and preparing for god knows what..

70kg (lost a few pounds prob by avoiding the hospital WHS and daily 5 choccy bars!)

M- nul
T- DL gentle re-intro: 5 sets up to 160 (felt heavy!), 30 min gentle board work.
W- Some deep press-ups, some dips, Fboard BM2k smalls open crimp 11 sets inc (+30kg x 5s) x 3
T- Weighted pull-ups up to (+20 x 3) x 3.  Few rope climbs.
F- DL 11 sets inc 6 singles at 180 - felt good as start to remember the nuances- plenty more in the tank but as I know from painful experience it doesn’t do to get impatient with DL. That’s all my olly weights used up; will have to get imaginative about how to add more weight to the bar. 30 min boardwork. Campus board 3 to 1 drop downs - felt hard ?a hard board or prob just me being poop.
S- hard time with ring muscle-ups but finally managed 3 singles. 6 sets weighted pull-ups inc (+30x3)x3. 2 hours prepping field for planting.

Coming back after a break is always humbling, but done it so many times I’m not bothered - feels great to be doing shit (esp DL ☺️)

Anyway cheers all good to be back

HarryBD

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 87
  • Karma: +5/-0
#35 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:17:53 pm
What's your lockdown loop, Harry? I used to go up Park Road to Dick Hudsons and drop back down Heights Lane to get to Eldwick. Might have to reverse that and gain the height initially by heading up Lady Lane. Not sure my legs would get up Park Road these days!

It's grim, up park lane left at the eldwick rab up heights lane, left down lady lane repeat. you get about 2mins recovery each lap 2mins hard up park lane then keep pressing over the top for 6mins

edit to add I wouldn't want to do my loop in reverse as the park lane surface looks quite loose for now
« Last Edit: April 06, 2020, 04:23:52 pm by HarryBD »

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 610
  • Karma: +33/-0
#36 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:18:41 pm


Bottom 1k 18mm edge

I thought that edge was considerd the archetypal 20mm edge, its just a bit rounded? Either way good numbers!

I've always worked with it being 18mm as I'd read that depth on here (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=28846.0 was the only one I could find quickly) and on reddit a few times. Regardless its the main edge I train on whatever the size  :shrug:

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#37 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:20:22 pm
Didn't actually use the fingerboard this week. Would like to do 2 board sessions and 2 x 30 mins fingerboard this week but not sure if that will be too much too soon for the fingers. Plus a couple of core workouts plus some pull ups plus a bit of cardio to keep weight down. Not sure how it will all fit in.

My advice would be ease yourself into it carefully. From what you always used to post pre-lockdown am I right in saying you were climbing outside maybe twice a week?

If so, two fingerboard sessions and two board sessions is a big increase in both volume and intensity, which you shouldn't underestimate. When I first started fingerboarding I spent months gradually easing into it, doing sub maximal work just getting used to form and using the thing. Feel like that has definitely paid dividends in subsequent years.

Then again, you've been climbing for a long time so you should be pretty well adapted already it might just be a case of being cautious.

Just finished that, then floored to find out my old mentor and much loved friend was one of the first UK doctors to die from the virus; everything has been much more serious since..

Sorry to read that, condolences. Welcome back and hope it helps.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#38 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:39:01 pm
What's your lockdown loop, Harry? I used to go up Park Road to Dick Hudsons and drop back down Heights Lane to get to Eldwick. Might have to reverse that and gain the height initially by heading up Lady Lane. Not sure my legs would get up Park Road these days!

It's grim, up park lane left at the eldwick rab up heights lane, left down lady lane repeat. you get about 2mins recovery each lap 2mins hard up park lane then keep pressing over the top for 6mins

Fuck that  :lol:


Didn't actually use the fingerboard this week. Would like to do 2 board sessions and 2 x 30 mins fingerboard this week but not sure if that will be too much too soon for the fingers. Plus a couple of core workouts plus some pull ups plus a bit of cardio to keep weight down. Not sure how it will all fit in.

My advice would be ease yourself into it carefully. From what you always used to post pre-lockdown am I right in saying you were climbing outside maybe twice a week?

If so, two fingerboard sessions and two board sessions is a big increase in both volume and intensity, which you shouldn't underestimate. When I first started fingerboarding I spent months gradually easing into it, doing sub maximal work just getting used to form and using the thing. Feel like that has definitely paid dividends in subsequent years.

Then again, you've been climbing for a long time so you should be pretty well adapted already it might just be a case of being cautious.

Wise words. It probably sounds like a lot but each session is quite short. So I did some fingerboarding today and it looked like 15 mins of hanging on a variety of edges. Then experimented some more with the monos. Found that middle finger is stronger so did some assisted hangs on index finger and ring finger. This was a 7 second hang (which I was generally doing comfortably, could have hung for longer) followed by a minute and a half or so of rest. Feet were on the floor but in front of me on a set of scales - the scales were reading about 35kg so I guess I'm hanging about 16kg on each finger? I did about 5 hangs on each finger. Moved the scales a bit closer for the weaker ring fingers but didn't check the weight. Then finished with about 5 hangs on the BM2k small crimps with 10kg added - 7s hang each time.

I'm not particularly strict on rest times so sometimes end up taking more or less due to boredom/tiredness. Thus I don't feel like I'm getting especially tired - not sure if this is good for the effectiveness of the training.

So overall it didn't feel like I worked very hard and it didn't take very long. With so much opportunity to do bits and pieces over a lunchtime, the MO is to do high frequency, medium intensity, low volume. Board sessions tend to be about an hour and a half inc warm up time.

Would you still say this sounded like too much and maybe focus on doing fewer sessions and making them harder work. I need dem gainzzzzz, Nick.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#39 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:44:28 pm
What Nick said. Spend a month doing the same exercises - get used to the pain of the holds - getting good form on shoulders etc..

If it’s a 6 month indoor training scenario (likely) then what’s a few sessions getting you body used to it.

I’ve spent the first two weeks doing pretty much the same thing. Gradually ramping up the difficulty in each session until I feel I’m close but not at my limit. For me that’s been three finger sessions and three one arm sessions. I’m planning to do the same for the next two weeks then up the ante.

For context - yesterday I couldn’t hold one of the BM crimps as if felt like bone on wood. Painful - having used the holds too much. Need to get used to the equipment and the stresses on the body.

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#40 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:55:23 pm
home gym in our incomplete but waterproof garage extension; rowing machine, cycling machine, pull-up/dips station, hip stretcher, lifting platform, 5 fingerboards with pulley, mini campus board, small 25 degree board, rings, rope climbing rope, bachar ladder.

 8)

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#41 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 04:56:41 pm
That sounds okay Will for a standard session. Although personally I found repeaters to be a good way of getting into it and building up form and tolerance, as your time under tension is so much higher. Would recommend adding them in.

I don't feel like I'm getting especially tired - not sure if this is good for the effectiveness of the training.

So overall it didn't feel like I worked very hard and it didn't take very long.

For pure strength sessions (when you're getting up to max) each rep should feel really fucking hard, like you could only go for a couple of seconds more, but you can almost then recover in a minute or two and you finish without really feeling tired, but somewhat powered out. Repeaters slightly down that spectrum where the individual reps are okay but the end of each set feels pretty hard and you feel more worked at the end of the session but still power out not tired. 

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#42 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 05:16:41 pm
My update:

M - warm up with pull ups and push ups, general hangs. Then on low BM2k edge half crimp did 20s +5kg, +10kg, +15kg & 3x +20kg. All pleasantly steady. Next same edge and grip did 10s +27kg and 3x 10s +30.5kg. New PB and again pretty steady felt like I could have gone longer. Warmed down doing 4x 10r pull ups.

T - nothing

W - repeaters half crimp low BM2k edge 1x 7/3 +10kg, 1x 7/3 +19kg and 4x 7/3 +15kg (completed all the hangs bar the last hang of the last set so felt like I'd got the intensity right), all superset w/ 5r leg raises (locked off on a bar) +4kg ankle weights & 20 push ups

T & F - nothing

S - did a 20 min HIIT circuit with girlfriend, exposing my complete lack of general fitness. Then warm up with pull ups and push ups, general hangs, etc.. Then on low BM2k edge half crimp did 20s +5kg, +10kg, +15kg & 4x +20kg. Steady away again. Next as Monday same edge and grip did 10s +27kg and 5x 10s +30.5kg. Last hang bit of a fight but completed. Finished with 3 sets of 6 pull ups on the same edges and 10r 11kg dumbbell overhead presses.

S - pressed for time as left it late but repeated Tuesday's session keeping rest times to 2.5mins instead of longer as previously. Repeaters half crimp low BM2k edge 1x 7/3 +10kg, 4x 7/3 +15kg & last 1x 7/3 +15kg on a 19mm edge instead, all superset w/ 5r leg raises (locked off on a bar) +4.5kg ankle weights & 20 push ups.

Stronger than I ever have been on that low BM2k edge but need to mix it up next week really, my skin being pretty sore in a few specific spots for one thing! Meant to do some yoga this week as well but didn't. At least got a good walk in every day.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4286
  • Karma: +341/-25
#43 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 05:25:25 pm
Quote
Would be interested to know how they're phasing sports/activities back in and how climbers/bikers etc there are responding?

It will come into effect tomorrow and it is still unclear about what and what is not permissible. Ski touring and mountain biking are still mentioned as no go sports, although I don't think it is technically illegal. I have not seen climbing specifically mentioned anywhere though. In reality is still going to be very restrictive. You are still only allowed to be in close contact with people you live with and cannot leave your area without a good reason. Therefore, the climbing would have to be in your own area (postcode). I will wait to see how it develops but in the meantime I don't want rock to get in the way of my finger boarding and pull ups!

Cheers John. Doesn't fill me with optimism for going climbing any time soon over here. Weather's totally mint too.  :wall: :chair:

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2574
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#44 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 05:27:03 pm
The weather has been absolutely outrageous since the lockdown started!

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#45 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 06, 2020, 06:48:21 pm
The weather has been absolutely outrageous since the lockdown started!

Paper over the windows :)

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#46 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 08, 2020, 11:26:46 am
This?
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/17-bell-hagg/boulders/230-golf-course#.XosONSTTXYU

Yep, can’t picture those problems exactly...

I found those PeakBouldering problems yesterday- on a natural boulder right below the wall so actually easier to access without walking through the golf course (it’s directly opposite 85 Redmires Road if anyone’s interested post-lockdown) and high enough up the bank to be feasible without upsetting anyone when the leaves are on the trees as the site suggests.

The quarried rock I noticed the other day is comically unfeasible- as I wandered over to take pictures of it yesterday I was instructed to “keep off the green” by another trespassing member of the public:lol:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29220
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#47 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 08, 2020, 11:29:25 am
Are you normally not allowed to walk on golf courses there then?

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#48 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 08, 2020, 11:49:32 am
Paper over the windows :)
That reminds me about having sex in the car in busy parkings as a teenager.

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 721
  • Karma: +60/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
#49 Re: Power Club 525 30 Mar - 5 April
April 08, 2020, 08:21:55 pm
Late post....

I’ve had a bit of a break from here for the last few months, but like some others being in lockdown has given my a lot of psych for training in the ways I still can, so I’m back at least for a bit!

Goals

Train hard in lockdown


M - Got beastmaker set up in isolation digs. Foot on circuit around board to warm up. Then freshly baked madeleines and strong coffee. Almost makes up for my cancelled font trip. After that, max hangs. I’m doing +15kg as max weight now. Used to be 20kg, but I reckon still more than 5kg fatter. Front lever progressions on rock rings. HIIT session, 10x burpees, press ups, plank rows (10kg). Three sets. Yoga evening.

T - Rest. Long day at work.

W - Attempted Anderson style hangs. Traps highly limiting, probably from HIIT last week. Converted to some foot on finger board circuits. Yoga I think. Night shift.

T - nothing. Night shift.

F - Slept most of day by mistake.

S - Yoga in sunshine to start day. Anderson repeaters. So far away from PB. Went to bigger holds to complete so at least getting something done. Be cool to see this progress. 10kg dumbbell bench press 15 reps x3. Don’t have heavier weight.

S - More yoga in the sun. Dead hangs, 8x10sec . (+weight 0, 10, 10, 15(6sec), 10(lots of shoulders?), 15(6sec), 10, 10). Slightly worse than Monday but day two on. Might have rested but working Monday long day and Tuesday night.

Feels like a good start after some time off. Not pushing too hard where I’m below PBS. I’ve never been very structured in my training and have really noticed effects of sleep deprivation. Gonna do what I can, when I can.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal