[Adam Lincoln]

Okay, off to Font next weekend again, then again weekend after. Third time this year   Just for getting in the mood, lets hear your top 10 7's

[dave]

i think i'm covering old ground here..and you might have done most of em....but sod it, heres the ones i enjoyed:

• Lepreux Direct, Elephant
• Jet Set, Roche Aux Sabots
• El Pousah
• Vin Rouge, Isatis
• Voltex, Franchard Sablons
• Cortomaltese, Cuvier
• Impasse Du Hasard, Cuisiniere
• Duroxmanie Direct, Cuvier
• Festin De Pierre, Cuvier
• Toit De Cul De Chien, Cul De Chien

Thats 10, and you should probably do carnage anall, evn though its not actually that good. peace out.

[Carnage]

These would be mine. Haven't done all but either done or messed around on each:-

Cortomaltese
Medaille Un Chocolat
Little Karma Assis ('cos I'll never do the proper one!)
La Joker
Magic Bus
Rubis Sur Ongle
Jet Set
Graviton
La Belle Guelle
La Coeur

BTW- Have any of you boys printed off the topo for the new area Roche Qui Tourne near Milly from Bleau.info. Looks like a good area, about 80 probs from 4 - 8b. Guessing it wont have been poffed too much yet. Defo gonna check it when I get out there in March.  :D

[ian h]

cul de chien
helicoptere
araginee
chasseaur de prises
el pousif
le couer
voltex
l egoiste
cortomaltese
hyper plomb (not that i done it)

[Adam Lincoln]

Everyone mentions Courtno maltise... Always thought it a bit of an eliminate. Once established you can use a hold out left which makes it easier. Though i reckon still 7a. Anyone know if this infact in?

[Kim]

a few different ones:
le Mur Cordier - Cuisiniere
Gargantoit - Gorges du Houx
la Baleine - Petit Bois
a l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu, Roche aux Sabots - my nemesis
el Poussif - Isatis - my other nemesis!
all the dynos at Franchard Sablons are cool and Smatch at Roche aux Sabots is fun
lepreux direct, la coeur and jet set are bo as t'others mentioned

[Carnage]

Dunno if its in. Saw a Frenchman lambasting his mate for having the cheek to even use the crack thing you slap again to.

[AndyR]

a few different ones:
le Mur Cordier - Cuisiniere

Any tricks for this? Flailed pretty miserably on it and it brought on a fine dose of font-elbow :evil:

[Kim]

Everyone mentions Courtno maltise... Always thought it a bit of an eliminate. Once established you can use a hold out left which makes it easier. Though i reckon still 7a. Anyone know if this infact in?

nah, it's out, it's quite far left tho innit? don't remember being tempted to use it anyway (i don't think, hope i didn't   ).

[ian h]

re: cortomaltese

i always understood the hold out left was out, altough i have only done the problem using it.

never really bothered trying it without though as seems abit pointless

[dave]

nah, it's out, it's quite far left tho innit? don't remember being tempted to use it anyway (i don't think, hope i didn't   ).

i've never even noticed this hold. its not needed anyway.

[ian h]

use the left hold for my foot

[Kim]

a few different ones:
le Mur Cordier - Cuisiniere

Any tricks for this? Flailed pretty miserably on it and it brought on a fine dose of font-elbow :evil:

yeah, let me see if i can remember....
think i started left foot and left hand on, and go up with right hand. once you get into the groove with both hands high in it, get your right outside edge on really high, so your proper laybacking (popped off loads from here, feels well tenuous), then slap out to arete with right hand and if your feet don't pop you're sorted!

[Doylo]

Surpolm de coquille assis
ange naif
rubi sur l'ongle
surpolomb de bivoac/retour aux sources
big boss

have a crack at Buerra Marga at Istasis for 6a+ :shock:  :shock:

[Scouse D]

Think it's deffo out. The best way i find is not to match the slopers but get RH one and jump through to top with left. If left foot stays on it's a doddle!
As Kim says Gargantoit is superb and burly, and la baleine is top although not done it(hard and high!!).
Jump at 95.2 is proper bo too, and is surplomd du bivouac at 95.2

[dave]

fucking hell i'm psyched for font. only 7 weeks to go.

[AndyR]

a few different ones:
le Mur Cordier - Cuisiniere

Any tricks for this? Flailed pretty miserably on it and it brought on a fine dose of font-elbow :evil:

yeah, let me see if i can remember....
think i started left foot and left hand on, and go up with right hand. once you get into the groove with both hands high in it, get your right outside edge on really high, so your proper laybacking (popped off loads from here, feels well tenuous), then slap out to arete with right hand and if your feet don't pop you're sorted!

Nice one - cheers.

[Adam Lincoln]

Aye, Surplomb de Bivouac is my favourite problem in Font! Reet Bo

[dave]

one question for everyone -is t'joker at cuvier really that good? in know its supposedly a "classic", but when we were trying it last time it just seemed shit, they'd not even chipped the holds to be nice holds. I got more psyched for that 7b dyno to the right of it.

[tc]

Off the top of my head:
El poussah
Alta
Mur des lamentations
Ange naif
Aerodynamite
Rubis sur l'ongle
Super joker
Carnage/ Berezina
Sale gosse
Cul de chien roof

Is that ten? Should be enough for a good coupla days :?

[billy]

Can't think of any others of the top of my head (not been to font for a long while....... getting withdrawal symptoms with all this talk of it!),  but the Excaliber arete thing at cuisinere is absolutly awesome (7a+ apparently on bleau.info). :D

Oh and la joker at cuvier is a pretty sound problem!

[Adam Lincoln]

Hmmm, seems ive done most of the peoples favourites...

Have to do some more digging. Though meeting up with some Bleausards, so should be able to keep me entertained!

Here are a few of my favorites, on top of the ones suggested!

Fleur De Rhum - Apremont
Mister Proper - 95.2
Egoiste/Egoiste Sit - Apremont
Hyperplomb - Apremont
Clin Doeil - Apremont

[dave]

how did you do Clin D'oeil? we sort of rocked round right and went for the top round there, but i suspect thats "cheating".

[Kim]

for your viewing pleasure.....




...Scouse on Gargantoit 7a/+ Gorge du Houx

psyche!

 :up:

[ian h]

surplomb de bivouac? 95.2

cant find this in my guide. any more info?