[Scouse D]

don't get me wrong, I ain't done eclipse, but I've done most of it(to the crack anyroad) I i start at the two undercuts. The way to pull on is to believe that your hads will stick and jump your feet to head level-as soon as they hit the footholds the undercuts feel good...saying that it would make more sense to do as stu says and start as for arabesque....

[Stu Littlefair]

Jesus dave - that sounds suicidal! I'll stick with my own method, if it's all the same by you as I can't bear the thought of what would happen if your feet missed  :shock:

[dave]

I recon a good (i.e. hands out of pockets) spot is pretty essential!

[Scouse D]

Aye Stu-it fucking hurts if you get it wrong...tis truley stupid beta.

[mark]

Everyone mentions Courtno maltise... Always thought it a bit of an eliminate. Once established you can use a hold out left which makes it easier. Though i reckon still 7a. Anyone know if this infact in?

I'm with you on this. Completely eliminate. Big hold out left that makes it considerably easier. Very good problem with the hold but not allowed on Cortomaltese, I reckon. Seems weird that an eliminate gets so much praise in the midst of endless non-eliminates.

[Omega]

Aye Stu-it fucking hurts if you get it wrong...tis truley stupid beta.

here you go - some truly stupid beta in action:

http://www.powerband.cactusclimbing.co.nz/global/video/eclipse.htm

[Adam Lincoln]

Off to Font in 24 hours!!!  

(Sorry, just had to tell someone)  :roll:

[Johnny Brown]

9) Power (7c), Rocher Canon
Does exactly what it says on the tin

Hmmmm, I favour a little peak technique. Get yer weight on yer foot and yer in. Good to see the strong struggle on it though :wink:

As for eclipse, I started like Scouse, though being a fair bit shorter, there was real positive thinking involved. Couldn't get into the crack though

[Adam Lincoln]

As for eclipse, I started like Scouse, though being a fair bit shorter, there was real positive thinking involved. Couldn't get into the crack though

Hmm was going to have a play on this at the weekend, might not bother then now  :shock:

[Adam Lincoln]

Just spoke to my mate in Fontainbleau. Its been dry for days, the grounds covered in snow and its below freezing  

[Doylo]

BASTARD, BASTARD      

[Adam Lincoln]

Well, Font was mint! Both days cool, but with sun! Friciton was ace

Loads of stuff done, the best being Rubis Sur L'ongle which and i onsighted and L'ange naif. Hurt my finger on this though  :roll:

ps - congrat to Ru for doing his first 8a in the forest  :drink:

[dave]

any good photos?

[Adam Lincoln]

any good photos?

Yup, loads of good ones. Will put them up this evening as i couldnt be arsed bringing camera into work. Good pics of Rubis Sur L'ongle, L'ange naif, yogi and Sal Grosse

[Doylo]

Which 8a did Ru get done?

[Doylo]

Adam, you seem to have put a 7a down on yer scorecardythingy as 8a. :shock:

[Adam Lincoln]

Adam, you seem to have put a 7a down on yer scorecardythingy as 8a. :shock:

Oops, yeah, Jet Set didnt really warrant 8a ;-)

Well spotted

As for the 8a Ru, did, cant remember the name

[Blunk]

So what is the crux on Rubis sur L'Ongle? In the videos I have seen of it everyone aces it, with nary a wobble to indicate difficulty. The high right hand crimp looks small, if this is combined with shite feet things could get interesting quick.

Thanks--

[Adam Lincoln]

So what is the crux on Rubis sur L'Ongle? In the videos I have seen of it everyone aces it, with nary a wobble to indicate difficulty. The high right hand crimp looks small, if this is combined with shite feet things could get interesting quick.

Thanks--

The final move to the good hold before the top i reckon. Though didnt think the whole thing was harder than V7

[Mike_H]

Just got back from Font myself, conditions were even better this morning  Adam.

One of the lads out with us had a very good day today - he ticked L'Aerodynamite, L'abbe Resina, Carnage, Bouchiere (?) all before 12PM in time to get back to the Airport.  :shock:

[Adam Lincoln]

Just booked flights for 4 days again in Font in 2 weeks :-) Not sure if skin will cope with Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday  :roll:

[Bubba]

How much are you getting flights for at the moment?

[Scouse D]

fooking hell Lincoln, are you psyched or something?!!!

[Adam Lincoln]

How much are you getting flights for at the moment?

Just paid £44 quid return. Going Thursday morning early and coing back monday morning

From Luton

With Sleazyjet

[Adam Lincoln]

fooking hell Lincoln, are you psyched or something?!!!

Iam in love wiht the place. Been twice already this year, just booked the flights for that trip, AND iam going out the week before. Just for 3 days though  :wink: