[Adam Lincoln]

how did you do Clin D'oeil? we sort of rocked round right and went for the top round there, but i suspect thats "cheating".

Left hand starting on good hold, left food on edge. Upto sharp edge with right hand, then swap feet and slap for rounded top(Actually, jug top :wink:  For the people who want to flash it)

Sound bout right?

[Kim]

surplomb de bivouac? 95.2

cant find this in my guide. any more info?

i think the bleausards think it's only 6c+ or summat cos it ain't in 7+8...

[Adam Lincoln]

surplomb de bivouac? 95.2

cant find this in my guide. any more info?

Up path at 95.2

Pic of my badself on it last year

[dave]

for your viewing pleasure.....




...Scouse on Gargantoit 7a/+ Gorge du Houx

psyche!

 :up:

that gets funnier every time i see it. the look on the face on topout speaks volumes.

who's chalkbag was that by the way?

[ian h]

ah cool

have it in the pink guide now. looks like it could be tricky to find, with that tiny map?

given 7a in there but like you say not in the 7&8

[Kim]

that gets funnier every time i see it. the look on the face on topout speaks volumes.

who's chalkbag was that by the way?

that was the first (and only) time any of us got past the heel-on move so it was a bit like venturing into a very slopey, holdless unknown...  :D

I think Scouse actually owned that chalkbag  :shock:  :wink:

[dave]

I think Scouse actually owned that chalkbag  :shock:  :wink:

 :owned:  :?:  Sounds a bit far fetched to me.

I bet he's not got in anymore. :roll:

[Kim]

Bubba, can we make this thread sticky?
I think we need a permanent Font thread for pics, vids, lists an stories to keep us all psyched between trips... 30 posts already in a coupla hours  

roll on april...

[dave]

i just started a photo thread gigga.

[Doylo]

Surplomb is called Retour aux sources/Etrave de Gauche in the 7+8 guide.

[Doylo]

Gargantoit looks fuckin desperate in that vid! Spose it is 7a though innit.

[Kim]

Surplomb is called Retour aux sources/Etrave de Gauche in the 7+8 guide.

ah, good knowledge!  :up:

[Carnage]

Everyone loves a Font thread. Agree- Should be a permanent fixture. :D

[Scouse D]

that chalkbag lasted me the whole font trip! Fuck knows what happened to it.
I'm pumped again after watching that video!

[Bubba]

Well if ya'll keep posting, it'll stay at the top anyway.... :wink:

[Stu Littlefair]

Top ten font 7s (and I've tried to get ones in here you might not have done.)

1) Onde Choc, Apremont (7b)
    It's a vertical version of the terrace, what more do you need?

2) La Pensees Cachees, Cuisiniere (7b)
    Wicked little arete, and for extra value traverse in using a leg jam (7c+)

3) A L'impossible...., Sabots (7a++++++)
    Definitive fingernail font slab nasty.

4) Eclipse, Cul de Chien (7c/+)
    Fully the best roof climbing ever seen, and a fucking magic crux at the end

5) Pierre Precieuse, 95.2 (7a)
    AKA La Yaniro. figure of four fun for all the family!

6) El Pousiff, Isatis (7a+)
    Included cos it's really easy, ergo good for ego.

7) Iceberg, Isatis (7c)
    Oh my god. I've just creamed my pants

L'abbe Resina (7c)
    The only boulder problem I've got up before dawn for.

9) Power (7c), Rocher Canon
     Does exactly what it says on the tin

10)  Miséricorde, (7c+), Cuisiniere
       Highball arete and fucking brilliant

[Adam Lincoln]

Aye, forgot about Ondo! Bit scarey when you've got your heal on and reach up with your left. Think your gonna land on the boulder behind!

Does Eclipse do any of the roof? Or does it start at the lip?

[Kim]

6) El Pousiff, Isatis (7a+)
    Included cos it's really easy, ergo good for ego.

 :twisted:  :twisted:


any beta for the top move?

[Stu Littlefair]

Aye, forgot about Ondo! Bit scarey when you've got your heal on and reach up with your left. Think your gonna land on the boulder behind!

Does Eclipse do any of the roof? Or does it start at the lip?

Eclipse officially starts with one hand on the lip. However, no-one is that tall, and it misses out the best climbing. Start in the same place as arabesque, and you'll not be dissapointed - you'll need to do some opposing feet shizzle and some wierdy undercutting and you'd be forgiven for thinking 7c+ was fair...

[Stu Littlefair]

6) El Pousiff, Isatis (7a+)
    Included cos it's really easy, ergo good for ego.

 :twisted:  :twisted:


any beta for the top move?

hee hee. Thought that'd get people riled. Use yer knee, youth.

[dave]

i thought eclipse started with both hands on undercuts, before the lip?

[Stu Littlefair]

nope, don't think so. You couldn't pull off the ground on those two undercuts alone. Most tall people I've seen have their right hand on the lip, and their left on the undercuts. It's a much better problem climbing into the undercuts from the starting pockets of arabesque though, and even shorties can start it like this.

There's a top video on modump.com showing it being done this way...

[dave]

nope, don't think so. You couldn't pull off the ground on those two undercuts alone.

i've seen people do just that - in fact i've never seen anyone do/try it any other way! come to think of it that exactly how christophe lamoune describes the sequence in the pink godoffe guide.
i would say starting with a hand on the lip is probably cheating. climbing through like on totaleclipse does look rad though.

[Adam Lincoln]

Why has the guy got all those lines on the last hold in that vid!?!  :shock:

[dave]

Why has the guy got all those lines on the last hold in that vid!?!  :shock:

maybe he's got cataracts or something.