I just did a quick google of Phil gondoux ( as I had not heard of him) and he also seems to have a lot of doubters and controversy surrounding him. Words such as “infamous” and “doubtful ascent” immediately appear in the google searches.
Bit more digging it’s actually one of the 1st ascents you mention him doing that is disputed , Queen of hearts. He originally gave it 8A+ but no one could repeat it including Nacho. It was then done by Klem at 8B+. You also say he suggests Akira is two 8Bs where as Fred suggests it’s an 8B problem into an 8b+ route to an 8a. So the new info that got me interested is someone with big ? s next to his name, who’s 1st ascent is doubted, has infamous prefixing his name in another article, is linked to Farman and Akira of which he suggests a much harder sequence than Fred suggests. I still believe that Fred did the route, it was really hard at the time, as hard as anything in the world, but it wasn’t 9b it was 9a and it hasn’t changed much at all.
Laura Ragora has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's The Bow, 9a+.https://www.instagram.com/p/CH7kLYvjUZM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Odd to think that Andrada couldn't at least come close to banging out a 7C into an 8b. Didn't he make some comments about Fred glueing the holds on the start to make them smaller? Maybe he just wasn't in to long boulders in caves with short routes at the end. No that doesn't seem right.Also Phil Gondoux did the fa of Ali Baba the extension to which was Laura Ragoras 1st 9b, so it's all linked....!Also also does this kneebar info mean we can add another 10 pages to the Hubble thread?
I almost did it [Akira]. I fell at the last move of the boulder crux. I find that section hard for 7C as Bouin and Martinez have now proposed. It's a boulder of about eight moves, which can be 8A or 8A+ in my opinion. I think the proposal of 9a is correct taking into account that they may have made some moves with kneebars as well. I went 7 or 8 days to try it. The place is quite ugly and I had a hard time finding someone to accompany me. The route is in the same style as Ali Hulk in the Cave of Ali Baba, in Rodellar, but the spot is so ugly that it is difficult to motivate oneself to go there.
I mean yeah there’s a big quarry opposite it by the looks of it but it’s not exactly West Vale! Grotte de Vilhonneur (Akira)Grotte de, Rochebertier, 16220, Francehttps://goo.gl/maps/4MQAZaZDGgYHKEvj9
It starts with ten movements in 7B block followed by a very physical 7C block of 5/6 moves. The total could be worth 8A + block over about 15 moves. Small relaxation hung on a ferry and it left for a little fifteen moves, still in the ceiling, gymnastic but less hard, which could be compared to something like an 8b lane or a very long 7C boulder. Exiting the roof
Did he basically say the start is a 7B boulder straight into a 7C adding up to around 8A+ in 15 moves, followed by an 8b route or long 7C boulder (followed by some easy climbing)?
Did he basically say the start is a 7B boulder straight into a 7C adding up to around 8A+ in 15 moves, followed by an 8b route or long 7C boulder (followed by some easy climbing)? Not got translate option on my phone! Sounds like a great effort from Rouhling at the time.
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