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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: benpritch on December 07, 2008, 10:17:30 am

Title: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on December 07, 2008, 10:17:30 am
heard on the grapevine that Dan Varian repeated Superboc.

anyhting else happening in this nice weather?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on December 07, 2008, 10:52:23 am
boom. souperbloch finally repeated. good effort.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 07, 2008, 05:13:29 pm
3 repeats of promise today, as I understand it. Bransby, Robbins, Roberts. Different styles different flavours. Don't know owt about the bransby one but apparently robbins did it ground up! Effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 07, 2008, 05:51:37 pm
and more importantly, blind fury got repeated by banx.

boom etc.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on December 07, 2008, 06:43:14 pm
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?thismonth=1 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?thismonth=1)

Alan James 'pon the photo bizzle @ UKC.

Robbins - 4th ascent 1st ground-up.
Bransbubble - 5th ascent 2nd g-u

Conditions would have been amazing, light but very fresh wind hitting the sunny crags.

So. Ground-up, falls taken on to: Slider? Mats?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 07, 2008, 07:07:03 pm
I gather the robbins etc had a load of mats and a ladder to create a landing (this is second-hand info, i didn't see it). Also the gear has taken some falls, not sure if this was on robbins' ascent or that of the other guy who was trying it (name?).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: AndiT on December 07, 2008, 07:08:43 pm
I gather the robbins etc had a load of mats and a ladder to create a landing

You mean, a patio!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Zods Beard on December 07, 2008, 07:15:01 pm
It's about time someone showed those Yanks how us Brits roll, god knows I can't.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on December 07, 2008, 07:40:42 pm
V10 r/x?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JR on December 07, 2008, 09:03:42 pm
IRT Dave:

Jack Geldard (fell quite a few times c.8)

Gear holds clearly but a bit too easy to kick out. 

IRT Fiend

Font 7b+ ish so V8/9
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JR on December 07, 2008, 09:05:04 pm
damn emoticon, about 8 times.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on December 07, 2008, 09:12:00 pm
3 repeats of promise today, as I understand it. Bransby, Robbins, Roberts.

Who's this Roberts character?  :lol:
Nice work all round.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: emily on December 07, 2008, 09:26:52 pm
Was just having a wee look around and saw this news, amazing effort boys!!!

I am so going to get a slap off James for putting this on the web, but I thought it was 'significant'. He onsighted End of the Affair last friday before a trip to san fran. He didn't want anyone to know, because of all the bullshit on the internet, but I am very proud of him and think he should be too.  ;D
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on December 07, 2008, 09:33:08 pm
Get effort to all.

I also heard that benpritch hit the top of the joker 1,000,000 times but still failed to hold it
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JohnH on December 07, 2008, 09:36:25 pm
 :jaw: :jaw: :jaw:  Amazing effort all round on The Promise, and of course to James on End of the affair, really inspiring stuff.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on December 07, 2008, 09:38:01 pm
Get effort to all.

I also heard that benpritch hit the top of the joker 1,000,000 times but still failed to hold it

i heard it's cos he was posting on ukb with his iphone with the hand he was hitting the top with.

good effort all, inc james.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on December 07, 2008, 09:40:04 pm
Good effort by all!!  :great: Good weekend on the grit for many by all accounts!

A flash surely? (EOTA. Great effort none the less)

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JR on December 07, 2008, 09:50:05 pm
in all fairness to James he did used to cover his eyes when it came on Hard Grit whenever I've seen it whilst he's been there.  Though this was in an era many moons ago.  Who knows whether he maintained it until now but an awesome effort, either way.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: emily on December 07, 2008, 10:30:53 pm
shirley,
if i meant flash i would not have written onsight. :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on December 07, 2008, 10:35:17 pm
I'd have to give James even more credit for never having seen it in hard grit or consumed. That was probably harder than doing the route for him
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on December 07, 2008, 10:46:31 pm
Wad points all round.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on December 07, 2008, 10:54:59 pm
shirley,
if i meant flash i would not have written onsight. :shrug:

I'd have to give James even more credit for never having seen it in hard grit or consumed. That was probably harder than doing the route for him

Good effort on both fronts then!



Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on December 08, 2008, 08:51:15 am
Ace, ace, ace.

Ace :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 08, 2008, 08:54:34 am
whats this about The Ace - 4 repeats?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on December 08, 2008, 09:04:07 am
E7 7a/Font 7b+ for The Promise according to Pete.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: priscilla wimbush on December 08, 2008, 09:17:15 am

E7 7a/Font 7b+ for The Promise according to Pete.
Did he mention how many pads / ladders he used?

Dave - What is Blind Fury?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Charles on December 08, 2008, 10:04:31 am
Whoever I saw ground-upping it on Saturday had at least 4 pads. They seemed quite comfortable falling onto the sliding nut too.

Bloody good effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 08, 2008, 10:13:00 am
Dave - What is Blind Fury?

nasty pebble horrorshow right of blind date. done by harris couple of years ago and was unrepested as far as I know.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on December 08, 2008, 11:29:37 am
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1499 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1499) - in depth.

Main point being, I guess, that James ain't a good judge of ball nut placements. And that Jack got ripped off, £45 WTF, I'm sure I paid £35 for mine.

Big up the ball nut massive  8)


Edit: Having watched the video of Bransbubble taking the whipper, it's obvious (as if it wasn't bloody obvious already) where any so-called grading "discrepancy" comes from: James was totally right with his grade estimate if he thought the ball nut would rip and was purely psychological - that would be a bloody horrendous deck-out with ripping gear and no mats. He didn't overestimate the grade he underestimated the ball nut. Word.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 08, 2008, 11:44:25 am
no mention of the laddered landing on there, which would seem a strange ommision, assuming what JR told me was right (i was told ladder to create a landing over the void to the left of the big rock under the route, which looked to be probablty where you'd be landing if you blew the crux with no gear). can someone clarify?

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fultonius on December 08, 2008, 12:07:19 pm
Master's Edge has also been ground-upped by a brit...it seems to be the season of ground-ups!  :great:

Nice one Will! (willackers on here)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on December 08, 2008, 12:15:40 pm
Master's Edge has also been ground-upped by a brit...it seems to be the season of ground-ups!  :great:

Nice one Will! (willackers on here)

It was indeed on saturday, good work from the steely fingered youth!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Rice Boy on December 08, 2008, 12:15:54 pm
no mention of the laddered landing on there,

Right at the bottom of the article tis quoted saying "Additional note (added after an email question): We also used a small step ladder, laid flat on the floor to fill a hole."  
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 08, 2008, 12:23:57 pm
nice, that's been added since i read it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: El Mocho on December 08, 2008, 02:18:08 pm
good effort to all the other puns getting stuff done, especially the superbloc.

Just to back up what Fiend said

Edit: Having watched the video of Bransbubble taking the whipper, it's obvious (as if it wasn't bloody obvious already) where any so-called grading "discrepancy" comes from: James was totally right with his grade estimate if he thought the ball nut would rip and was purely psychological - that would be a bloody horrendous deck-out with ripping gear and no mats. He didn't overestimate the grade he underestimated the ball nut. Word.

After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Woman and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday)

I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could prabably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly).



Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JR on December 08, 2008, 04:27:27 pm
For the record I reckon its E8 7a.  Though with the disclaimer that I haven't done that much in those numbers, but its definitely a good deal harder than EOTA!  Fb 7b+ is about right.

I didn't trust the ballnut that much, but thought I'd prob be ok having seen Jack wing off it, so went for it after linking it for the first time (i'd had a few goes on the moves on a rope the previous weekend).  Someone else has clearly been trying it cos there was loads more chalk on it than last weekend, and on some "non sequence" holds. 

The gear fell out on me mid crux, having had a pull test from the floor, after it had been placed "on lead".

Something to watch now is that the placement is pretty scarred after Sunday's GU antics and I wouldn't be surprised if the next size up fits now or soon if people continue to wing onto it, whether that contributed to it falling out on me or not I don't know, I'm just glad I didn't take the solo fall onto the pads which wouldn't have been in the right place.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on December 08, 2008, 05:01:12 pm
Good effort on the ascent, please don't take the following as criticism it's not, just a genuine question, do you feel that the route is E8 with hole covered with a ladder and then padded out or E8 without the ladder and pads?

Appropos of nothing I see that no one is saying superblock can't be E8 because it's only x high.....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on December 08, 2008, 05:24:57 pm
Good effort on the ascent, please don't take the following as criticism it's not, just a genuine question, do you feel that the route is E8 with hole covered with a ladder and then padded out or E8 without the ladder and pads?

Appropos of nothing I see that no one is saying superblock can't be E8 because it's only x high.....
All route grades are based on the theoretical baseline position of onsight with no pads. I assume everyone is sticking to this convention when they suggest grades.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JR on December 08, 2008, 05:41:03 pm
No problem.

I didn't have the ladder/pads in the hole, just 2 pads covering the block you start off (assuming the same as the yanks) and an extra one on the block behind I thought I might smack my head on.  I was intending to put a lid on but thought it would annoy me so swapped the helmet for a pad on the boulder.  (add that into the UKB E grading science algorithm!)

Comparing The Promise to routes of similar grades I've done and in the style I did it in I felt it definitely justified E8 (and probably right at the top of the grade) in terms of E for overall effort (which is in reality all you can do on headpoint).  If EOTA is benchmark E8 (and its been that for c.22 years and no-one's really argued) then The Promise felt harder in terms of E for effort.  Comparing the two directly (and for the record I've done both in very similar style) they are at opposite ends of E8.  And as its a direct comparison then the same applies within reason to the theoretical onsight as there's nothing hidden in either route.  Both are sequency, easyish once you know how, gear is not tricky to place, possible injury etc

Doing it with so many pads/ladder covering hole etc then maybe it would feel easier but I'd feel a bit bold and dare I say it inflammatory giving it E7.   But, I didn't GU and Pete has way more experience in the lofty grades than me.  

Had the gear been kicked out on one of the GU ascents/Jack's attempts would we be having the same discussion?  E9?

Comparing it to superstition yeah its not E8, but given that (AFAIK) no-one but Miles can even do the damn thing top rope or no top rope would anyone be arguing with superstition getting E9 or possibly harder?  Same goes for superbloc.  All it does say is that its desperate to grade all these bouldery, potentially dangerous, super highball routes.

Anyway, it looks like I've just walked my way into a grade debate I didn't much want to get into.  I do think The Promise has got some awesome moves on it and I really enjoyed climbing it.  So thanks to James for putting it up.  I'm just hoping nobody spanners themselves in this craze we've got going on.  Take care out there and for God's sake enjoy it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on December 08, 2008, 09:26:43 pm

"All it does say is that its desperate to grade all these bouldery, potentially dangerous, super highball routes"



Cant be that hard look at em all

e10/7a /font 8a/v11

e8/7a/font 7b+/v8+

8b/ V8/9

e7/7a

5.something r

See thats 14 grades for it. 

We all clear now. Good...

 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on December 09, 2008, 12:21:27 am
E7 7a/Font 7b+ for The Promise according to Pete.

Told ya!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on December 09, 2008, 11:01:01 am
Fair play tc, not so much an armchair critic, more a wise old bastard!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on December 09, 2008, 11:09:01 am
Fair play tc, not so much an armchair critic, more a wise old bastard!

Too kind, sir. Actually, you'd be surprised which bits of grit this wise old bastard has played with on a top rope over the last 30 years, particularly when I used to live 5 minutes away down Ringinglow Road (back in 1736). Never diss your grandad, that's my advice. You never know what he might have done in the war  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Somebody's Fool on December 09, 2008, 11:27:06 am
Didn't you say it looked like an E5 7a?

If so, and the route does eventually settle down at E8, which is looking likely, then yours is the most wayward 'guess' yet. Hardly a reason to be gloating.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 09, 2008, 11:31:00 am
I think before it got done scouse said he thought it looked E5. I said it won't be a penny less than E8. back of the net.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on December 09, 2008, 11:44:02 am
Didn't you say it looked like an E5 7a?

If so, and the route does eventually settle down at E8, which is looking likely, then yours is the most wayward 'guess' yet. Hardly a reason to be gloating.

Quit fretting Si, it's not really gloating is it, more just an amusing scenario. And tc did say E5 7a originally, but then relented to E7. And as for the emerging consensus, surely that has to be weighted towards those with the most experience of hard E grades (i.e. Pete, Ben and Jack - that'll be a possible E8 and two E7 votes then). So it could still settle at E7.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nigel on December 09, 2008, 11:58:38 am
Fine ascents Pete and Ben.

Two penneth (think we're up to four now!): I know there's a lot of shit flying around about the grade of The Promise and to be honest in a way its nonsense since giving sensible E grades to a stuff like this is nigh on impossible as well as being fairly pointless. However, this being a bouldering forum I think its relevant to point out that the difficulty has been downgraded from 8a to 7b+. That is a massive drop, and as I understand it the sequence has remained the same. If this was one of my boulder problems I would feel a bit of a lemon!

Mind you its not the biggest downgrade in the Peak right now so its not really news. Anyone for Pressure Drop? (cue T-shirt picture of Dense looking blankly upwards at stunning off vertical grit highball, perhaps shrugging shoulders).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 09, 2008, 12:04:06 pm
E10 - pearson

"at least E9" - Alex H in the momentumVM interview.
(other yank guy presumably similar opinion? can't find any sources directly from him)

Top end E8 - JR

E7 - pete

"E7 is a little low" - bransbubble

obviously opinions there covering a range of experience, and ascents in different styles, from headpointed first ascent no mats thinking the gear poor, to thinking the gear is ok with some mats, to kicking the gear out on the way up, to lobbing onto the gear with mats and ladder etc. E7 sees hardly to be the average though as yet.

is pressure drop log these days?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on December 09, 2008, 12:33:18 pm
Of course the first three in your list should have said Font 7b+ R.  ;)

Pete and Ben (and Jack, because he was a cat's whisker away) were climbing ground up and thus are the ones best placed to give the best feel for the true E grade.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 09, 2008, 12:34:52 pm
Here we go again!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on December 09, 2008, 01:16:23 pm
I wonder what the proposed grade would have been if there hadn't been all the speculation about the [over] grading?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 09, 2008, 01:29:05 pm
for once, and only once, sloper has as valid point. often when something is perceived as being overgraded then the subsequent regrading is a bit of a rebound in the wrong direction. As a lot of people will probably note, theres a fair bit of this in the peak bouldering guide, like things on limestone that were given 7c previously then got down to 7a+ and lo and behold everyone then considers them nails for the grade. for this reason I would express caution in taking the E7 for promise at this stage, even if it was ground up. bearing in mind el mocho said E7 would be too low, and jack hasn't done it, (although it might seem harsh to say ignore jacks opinion, thats the rule - afterall he could get up tomorrow, do it, and have a change of heart) thats only one person saying E7, the rest saying hard E8 or 9. Theres loads of people who haven't done the route with a grade opinion, non of which are worth anything in the historical record. After more repeats we'll have a better idea.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on December 09, 2008, 01:55:19 pm
Perception is important, last might I was puntering at the works and failed to latch a jug on one of the yellow problems, having cruised it second go I said I thought it was english 5c. 

This wasn't taken seriously until some other punters got on it and thought that was about right, you see they'd looked at a yellow problem and thought that must be hard so hand't really tried.  The same effect can be experienced when you're being sandbagged, you're told it's say font 6a when its font 7a as a result you treat it like a 6a and flash it.

Like it or not all some downgrading is for reasons other than the grade.

PS aren't E grades supposed to be ground up without mats, ladders etc etc etc  JR said that he thought that the promise was physically harder than EOTA; let's noty forget that the physical element plays a part in the E grade.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on December 09, 2008, 02:51:06 pm
go and argue about it on the other thread about the promise i keep thinking something significant has been repeated, and i am bored.  It was overgraded by how much we will have to wait and see...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on December 12, 2008, 02:51:04 pm
can't believe you're bored in wales nodder, in winter
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 12, 2008, 11:32:09 pm
I'vE Just had a douBle Guiness.

I guesS thatS a repeat, just as significant as anything ElsE.

M3dia led - spoon fed - dRiVel

The CrEation of liFe

WhaT do yoU make uP?

grading NON SeNSe is riFe amongSt climbing account-ability-Ants

WhO is goiNg to SatisFy ouR inTernAl landSCape nOw BeN anD JeRRy huNg Up theiR BooTs?

Ah the joy of a good wander

BOBBY DiGiTaL skips over mind sludge, distracted from sleep, olive oil, media sluts, searching out the illusion of glory to satisfy WhAT/WHo?

Upbring ing is revealed in fancy footw0rk and little do we realise amidst our distraction have perfect every step we form is ...........

Hello YojnoB enjoy TOnF
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saltbeef on December 12, 2008, 11:57:49 pm
one too many hits on the crack pipe? useful contributions as ever patty
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 13, 2008, 08:37:20 am
OnE puLL Up too MANy
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nibile on December 13, 2008, 10:35:50 am
OnE puLL Up too MANy
so you did two pull ups, didn't you?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 13, 2008, 11:08:08 am
Quote
BOBBY DiGiTaL skips over mind sludge, distracted from sleep, olive oil, media sluts, searching out the illusion of glory to satisfy WhAT/WHo?

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_qlXxh9DSIBI/Ri2gPOCiW3I/AAAAAAAAAL8/NMyu0XHqtmI/s400/RZAasBobbyDigital-InStereo-CD1.jpg)

Glad that Bobby is getting dragged into these grade debates.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on December 14, 2008, 05:18:02 pm
However, this being a bouldering forum I think its relevant to point out that the difficulty has been downgraded from 8a to 7b+. That is a massive drop, and as I understand it the sequence has remained the same. If this was one of my boulder problems I would feel a bit of a lemon!

Would you hand back the sponsorship money?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 15, 2008, 12:30:05 am
Inane boring drivel is yawning on about GrADEs
Why not do some more pulling off,  :oops:, typo, i meant ups
Whatever.
Do two VS's make an HVS?
Do three E9s make an E(x3)27?
I generally find qualitative action leads to greater rewards and consequently more happiness, which is in part what this game is about.  Right?
One banana, two banana, three banana, four.
Creativity lies beyond pulling
There is a certain lightness, to pulling
I find the more i get jerky in my movements the more prone i am to erring.
However, throwing caution to the wind is not so clever
Anyway, sometimes one has to slap
Sometimes there is more need to master the quick step, other times the slow.
Boring drivellous RZActions are most likely born out of boredom with ones own patterns.
THinking, such as 'if i do more i will get more', generally leads to the sort of state we are currently in - GREeD and hyper-inflation of lots of things (such as eGos, the price of shoes and rum).
I'd say we are in a fine mess Stanley if we can not take a step back and really take stock of this situation.

Boring ... i think i'll do a degree in hyper-drivel.
Hum, thats a good idea, i'll post it on UKb

More tea vicar?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on December 15, 2008, 12:41:32 am
Looked at this thread again thinking that something of significance had happened.

All I found was this jokers drivel
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: stevie haston on December 15, 2008, 09:28:30 am
I like jokes but you get a lotta shit, trivial one line, I think I am really funny stuff here. Yes grades are wierd to talk about, and talk about them we must. Yes some repeats are note worthy and some not so, if you dont find them interesting you are not obliged to post. Stevie boring Haston who is fairly interested in a lotta stuff about climbing and can buy comics if he wants to.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on December 15, 2008, 02:52:51 pm
I think PATRuL speaks to a certain truth
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on December 15, 2008, 03:01:53 pm
I think PATRuL speaks to a certain truth

Yes, especially the 
Quote
One banana, two banana, three banana, four.
bit.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on December 15, 2008, 03:09:08 pm
Indubitably so.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 15, 2008, 07:09:21 pm
Inane drivel ... is the continual machismo drive for MOrE
 :wall:
In a new drive ... life can be more each day
 :pissed:



THE SHRINE

We need more Awe and reverence
Achievements pale into insignificance
At the majesty of Clogwyn Du Arddu
Only we take this away
Sun kissed majestic cathedral
Stands imperious
Our need is more urgent now
I saw you holding on gripping
Tiger style, smooth and doubtless
Armed, embodied, sunk into the rock
Flowed and the path was conquered
In no great hurry of contained energy
You settled down to no acclaim of glory
Smoke drifted in waves of stillness
Colours were boundless
The door opened
Full of jewels and treasures
This all happened and does so
Presently there was no difference
Between us we share this moment.

For Jim and all those who know
15th December 2008
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saltbeef on December 15, 2008, 10:29:55 pm
 :yawn:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Duma on December 15, 2008, 10:45:16 pm
I liked that last one
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Houdini on December 15, 2008, 10:49:40 pm
:yawn:

 :yawn: :yawn: :yawn:
 :yawn: :yawn: :yawn:
 :yawn: 8) :yawn:
 :yawn: :yawn: :yawn:
 :yawn: :yawn: :yawn:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 15, 2008, 11:32:24 pm
Thank you all for your reflections
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on December 16, 2008, 08:16:07 am
Thank you for posting some non-drivel and dropping the stupid capital letters.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: stevie haston on December 16, 2008, 09:06:35 am
Ok; some one open a poetry thread. The recent repeats on grit with their various differeing methords have highlighted a few things, people bend rules or are confusing styles and overgrade, it may or may not be done on purpose. Climbers in the 80s used to argue about one grade differences, now you have two high profile routes with 3 grade differences actually. It is only right there are a few mutterings. The repeats of high boulder problems which sometimes got high E grades are also causing fuss. To be fair, many of the lads who are ticking the high balls with mats, are doing so in a very fast and impressive fashion, and are not intentionaly trying to pull the wool over anybodys eyes, it may be the internet or other methords of reporting. However everything has become very confused, the worlds perception of british trad is getting tarnished and indeed many old timers in brit are shaking there heads. The big questions are where are the standards , which are the hard routes, who are the really good climbers. How do short desperate routes compare to bigger fears? Broken ankle to death. It has always been hard to comunicate trad or engaged climbing (and it isnt necessarily only brits who do it) and it is getting more confused and trying to do so. Thats why games have rules, to define the game, and climbing I used to think was one of the finist games of all.  I am not suggesting you keep to the rules, you climb as you like, but reporting especially on the suposed big splash routes should be as tight as can be so people know where they are and what the routes are. Non of this is done by shit poetry. There is supposed to be a Bmc meeting discussing it, some of you should go. many people have pranged themselves badly on the grit it invites a playful full tilt solo, and thats one of the things that has defined it for me, couple that with the tentative friction slaps and it becomes something quite special, but how are we to honour the brave when we give purple heart for ingrowing toenails? TC please elaborate. Stevie
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on December 16, 2008, 10:56:38 am
Fuck the rules. Times move on. So some old men get confused, why should the youth care about that? New things don't fit neatly in the old boxes. None of this tarnishes old achievements any more than folk climbing Brown routes with sticky rubber and chalk did back in the day.
 I'm all for scrupulous detail in reporting of style details and as far as recent ascents go I'm happy to have seen this. Where's the beef?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on December 16, 2008, 11:14:01 am
I just had a vision of Stevie and PATrul going on a very long car journey together.  :)

Actually, by the end of it, they were great friends.

It seemed in the 1980s that Brit standards were around the top. Jerry was doing his thing and Ben was doing the hardest redpoints. there was the Indian Face which seemed to stand head and shoulders above everything else in terms of danger - was this true, Stevie, as someone who was close to that scene? I wonder was the climbing culture in Britain much better then (don't worry c.j.d., not saying it's bad now - or is it don't worry bonjoy?) just that with the dole culture, people had the time they needed.

Now it seems like the Spanish have a great culture. Aren't they all firemen working six hours a week or something, leaving them the rest of the time to wire their forearms up to an electrode de-pumping flux capacitor?

And isn't there a town in Austria called Imst, near Innsbruck that just shits out wads? Loads of top comp climbers live and train there. It must be a super-psyched place. Compare that to Steve Mac driving to Malham by himself on a bitter March day, dropping a static line down Overshadow and shunting the dry sections.

There was a thing in a mag one time by Ian Parnell about all rounders ("And that, my friend, is a full house") mostly concentrating on trad and ice. In it, Dave Macleod said he should include sport and bouldering, as they were actually the hardest diciplines to do well in.

As such, Steve Mac is obviously the best climber in Britain (apologies to God-ologists out there). The other week he redpointed an 8c in Spain, just about (his own words) which Sharma then flashed. With ease. However, that was Steve on a route very much not his style and Sharma on a route that was. But still, 8c flash is an 8c flash.

I can't remember my point. I'm starTiNG to fEEL lIKe PaTRUl
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 16, 2008, 11:19:42 am
especially on the suposed big splash routes

Good to see some Rubicon respect there.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 16, 2008, 11:23:25 am
cRunCH tiMe for GrAdeS!

thEIr CurrEnCY is fAILing.

iS A eUrOPeAn siNGle CurrEnCY tHe aNSwER?

No. wHaT's A roUTe'S wORTH?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on December 16, 2008, 11:27:57 am
yawn :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 16, 2008, 11:32:48 am
I'm more bored of the 'debate' than PatrUL. The future will soon sort out the past.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on December 16, 2008, 11:39:33 am
I'm more bored of the 'debate' than PatrUL.

I've just come into the room to tell you all that I'm bored being in the room  :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: richdraws on December 16, 2008, 12:26:42 pm
If the peddlers of the economic ragnarokapocalypseendofdays are on the money, then perhaps a return to the dole days of the 80's is not too far from view. Having lots of free time might allow more people access to the higher levels of sport climbing. P'rhaps.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on December 16, 2008, 12:31:25 pm
Bring on the 3 day week I say :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on December 16, 2008, 12:33:25 pm
If the peddlers of the economic ragnarokapocalypseendofdays are on the money, then perhaps a return to the dole days of the 80's is not too far from view. Having lots of free time might allow more people access to the higher levels of sport climbing. P'rhaps.

Definitley be cheaper for eurowads and Ameriwads to come over here, that's for sure. Maybe time to start a countrywide rock guiding company - UKBGUIDES!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: richdraws on December 16, 2008, 12:48:03 pm
I would just like to state that I am claiming 'guiding' rights on Alex Puccio.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 16, 2008, 12:58:48 pm
Have you not got to climb a bit better than someone to guide them? Oh sorry, you said 'guide'.  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: webbo on December 16, 2008, 01:00:22 pm


There was a thing in a mag one time by Ian Parnell about all rounders ("And that, my friend, is a full house") mostly concentrating on trad and ice. In it, Dave Macleod said he should include sport and bouldering, as they were actually the hardest diciplines to do well in.

oh my god you've done it now you've mentioned all rounder and dave mac  . stevie will be on here ranting soon about dave not having been on a ski lift or having a chappati in the country of origin and how doesn't every one know who the best brit all rounder is.
or he might write another article in the mags about it. :whistle:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on December 16, 2008, 02:47:05 pm
perhaps cos hes right?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: stevie haston on December 16, 2008, 04:09:43 pm
Listen,some of you are bored of the debate- well dont take part. If you dont give a toss stay off. We thought things would sort themselves out along time ago, they didnt. Crimer your supposed to be interested for fuck sake, you live in the peak, write guide books and basically ern your money out of this-dont be coy. I am a passionate climber i get excited about stuff only to find out half of it is shit. I got even more naffd off about some one saying they flashed  font 8b a while ago and I dont really boulder. Dont trivilize this debate or laugh at people who want more accurate reporting. And dont make this about me or write shite poems, I have utterly no respect for a man who hasnt done things in the alps and claims to be an allrounder- clear. For those of you who like snow, there is some. cheers look forward to hearing about some good repeats, and people being passionate about climbing. Oh yes I went climbing today, dug the car out, dug the drive out, helped deneige the hamlet, went to the crag , soaking shit, enjoyed ourselves, my choice I am not a fire man, I choose to do no work so I am free. I have never got a route grade wrong, wierd how some people do though. Stevie 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on December 16, 2008, 04:18:52 pm
If you've never got a route grade wrong you've never climbed.

Now take the ego and search for the id.

Snow plodding is to climbing as fly fishing is to golf.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ged on December 16, 2008, 05:17:01 pm
Yes, climbing in the alps is just snow plodding...http://www.psychovertical.com/images/ianParnellCleaningGear.asp (http://www.psychovertical.com/images/ianParnellCleaningGear.asp)

Didnt JC Lafaille climb 8c, or maybe even 8c+, as well as soloing 8000 metre peaks and establishing some of the hardest routes in the alps?  Now THATS an all rounder.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 16, 2008, 05:23:53 pm
Oh yes I went climbing today, dug the car out, dug the drive out, helped deneige the hamlet, went to the crag , soaking shit, enjoyed ourselves, my choice I am not a fire man, I choose to do no work so I am free. I have never got a route grade wrong, wierd how some people do though. Stevie 

(http://www.medalsus.com/images/medal_089.jpg)

they're in the post.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 16, 2008, 05:26:16 pm
Yes, climbing in the alps is just snow plodding...http://www.psychovertical.com/images/ianParnellCleaningGear.asp (http://www.psychovertical.com/images/ianParnellCleaningGear.asp)

Didnt JC Lafaille climb 8c, or maybe even 8c+, as well as soloing 8000 metre peaks and establishing some of the hardest routes in the alps?  Now THATS an all rounder.

but whats he ever done at rubicon? to me an allrounder is someone how can perform at both rubicon, the tor AND at burbage.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ged on December 16, 2008, 05:48:24 pm
true, his peak limestone credentials were probably a bit shit.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 16, 2008, 06:38:52 pm
And the significant repeats are ... ?
Excellent, what is there not to repeat, when as headless chickens we hurl our fears, anger and hatred at those who don't fit our perceptions and conceptualised thinking.
Climbing success doesn't happen so smoothly when we split ourselves in two with the above kind of thinking.
Hiding in the hills, it is possible to be aware of the many sounds of nature.
Sitting at home or wherever, reading this, we can listen to our innate intellegence that runs throughout all life.
Every response is perfect.
Unconditionally i reserve my integrity to express my feelings and sense of what i percieve.
You cannot go wrong in listening.
THe mountain could be something to conquer, however, engaging with it in a state of no-mind/mushin, its so much easier, and neither success or failure matter, the proof is in the efforT.
THought is so powerful it can throw us and others OFf.
BE aware.
 And listening to your feelings i don't begrudge your expression of being, in a manner of some silly, ill taught response to a percieved failure.
How much we learn through falling oFF!
We must, ObiWan.
The band wagon is perpetual and infinite.
ONly our heads are full of mortal concerns, when REAllY its slightly bigGerr than that.
What's this?
Yoda twisted and DarthVader saw the light.
Softly the breeze blows and another wave of thought passes over.
Slowing down.
OneHappyTree wonders why rock does not come with labels and attached grades?
Has anyone noticed the difference between indoors and out?

Trick question, because ReAlly there is none - it is only our mental accumulations that tell us otherwise.
So why SHIT in our WOODS without the respect to make a hole and bury it?
KNow what we are KINGing with before we do more damage.
Go carefully my friends.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: stevie haston on December 16, 2008, 07:50:59 pm
hello and I guess goodbye, I tried  to keep this subject on track but you know how these internet forums get, more than half full of silly people. I tried to post some good stuff here and some info and link interesting things, if you check this you will find out that thats true. I am fed up with a lot of the stupid remarks not just about me, its mostly a waste of my energy. I thank the people who have helped me on here and wish them luck and good climbing. This forum could be brill but you scare off many people who could help, a moderater would help of course and a bit of maturity. Stevie.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: meatball on December 16, 2008, 08:10:41 pm
people bend rules or are confusing styles

Or more a case of styles evolving?

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on December 16, 2008, 08:14:36 pm
There are six moderators on UKB - Bubba, dave, me, Dobbin, Underground and Fatboyslimfast. We don't do a lot of post deletion (mostly just removing spam), that's not what UKB is about and I think most users like it that way. It's an open forum and folk can say pretty much what they like. One user disliking another users comments is not in itself a good reason to start deleting things in our opinion. The wad/punter system is there if anyone feels the need to register said dislike and/or they can PM the user who is pissing them off. There's no need for a heavy handed and patriarchal moderation policy. If this means some drivel gets written, so be it, I can't say i've noticed the heavy moderation policy doing much to curb drivel on UKC.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 16, 2008, 08:20:54 pm
I'm just trying to widen the debate and draw on my experience of life.
I respect your need to look after your energy dude.
I often wonder if my creative urges maybe more fulfilling in other formats, but i enjoy trying to broaden peoples understanding of what it is to climb.
We are not all uberwads, but our enjoyment is personal, only others try and debase it.
There's enough of that in the world already.
When i first came to climbing i really enjoyed being in nature and meeting lots of like minded climbers.
Having been sucked into the headlights of haarder/faster/bigger bollocks mentality, i now see the error of this way.
Its media led greed, build some up, knock a whole bunch of others down - great?
Well done.
We get enough of that at school and our nurturance.
WHat we need amidst the increasing craziness of modern life is a more deeper realization of how we are all connected.
Climbing and climbers used to offer me that.
The cold stares of other punters, infamous or whatever, i recieve at some crags is a mystery (or is it).
I don't need this when I go to OUR places of worship (or hadn't you realised?)
Just because D,E or F did such and such a route doesn't mean he (its usually a man) alone created it.
Nor does regular attendence at some gym or other mean you own it.
A friendly welcome goes a long way.
Recreational rock bimbling scratches the surface of a fairly insignificant itch, in the grand scheme of things.
We must change our attitudes or be changed by our blind destruction.
Where is our reverence for nature?
Ever felt the gratitude of being alive?
THanked the rock?
I hope so.
Peas are ace.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on December 16, 2008, 08:32:43 pm
Jesus Stevie, I just put a humerous coment in at the start of a post. I think you're overreacting a bit. Personally I don't know if British standards are shit or not as a) I'm not very good and b) I don't know the international scene very well. The same is true for a lot of people on here - they just won't have the answers you want or the knowledge to have really useful contributions. It doesn't mean that no ones interested, although some might not be.

And as for PATRul I think he, as much as you, is one of the things that makes UKB really good.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 16, 2008, 08:50:14 pm
We love you Stevie
 :kiss2:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on December 16, 2008, 11:13:42 pm
I'm just trying to widen the debate and draw on my experience of life.
I respect your need to look after your energy dude.
I often wonder if my creative urges maybe more fulfilling in other formats, but i enjoy trying to broaden peoples understanding of what it is to climb.
We are not all uberwads, but our enjoyment is personal, only others try and debase it.
There's enough of that in the world already.
When i first came to climbing i really enjoyed being in nature and meeting lots of like minded climbers.
Having been sucked into the headlights of haarder/faster/bigger bollocks mentality, i now see the error of this way.
Its media led greed, build some up, knock a whole bunch of others down - great?
Well done.
We get enough of that at school and our nurturance.
WHat we need amidst the increasing craziness of modern life is a more deeper realization of how we are all connected.
Climbing and climbers used to offer me that.
The cold stares of other punters, infamous or whatever, i recieve at some crags is a mystery (or is it).
I don't need this when I go to OUR places of worship (or hadn't you realised?)
Just because D,E or F did such and such a route doesn't mean he (its usually a man) alone created it.
Nor does regular attendence at some gym or other mean you own it.
A friendly welcome goes a long way.
Recreational rock bimbling scratches the surface of a fairly insignificant itch, in the grand scheme of things.
We must change our attitudes or be changed by our blind destruction.
Where is our reverence for nature?
Ever felt the gratitude of being alive?
THanked the rock?
I hope so.

Why the fuck couldn't you have just said that in the first place instead of wasting your previous 103 posts??

P.S. I think stevie has been right to question stuff, the "are standards shit" thread has been a very worthy issue to be explored, whatever the answer is.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Plattsy on December 17, 2008, 08:30:01 am
And as for PATRul I think he, as much as you, is one of the things that makes UKB really good.

Hear hear!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 17, 2008, 08:50:43 am
This forum could be brill but you scare off many people who could help, a moderater would help of course and a bit of maturity. Stevie.

The best sign of maturity is the ability to laugh at oneself. You're perfectly prepared to dish it out stevie but when the glove is on the other fist you take your ball (or should that be bat?) home. I think it would be a shame if you stopped posting on here as some of the points you've raised have created interesting discussions, you have a wealth of knowledge to impart and you make the forum a more interesting place. We all take the piss out of each other, just don't be so fucking touchy.

 :-*
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: n_man on December 17, 2008, 10:36:36 am
Stevie: Many people are scared off.... British Standards are shit....Brits are shit...... :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on December 17, 2008, 01:10:06 pm
I'm just trying to widen the debate and draw on my experience of life.
I respect your need to look after your energy dude.
I often wonder if my creative urges maybe more fulfilling in other formats, but i enjoy trying to broaden peoples understanding of what it is to climb.
We are not all uberwads, but our enjoyment is personal, only others try and debase it.
There's enough of that in the world already.
When i first came to climbing i really enjoyed being in nature and meeting lots of like minded climbers.
Having been sucked into the headlights of haarder/faster/bigger bollocks mentality, i now see the error of this way.
Its media led greed, build some up, knock a whole bunch of others down - great?
Well done.
We get enough of that at school and our nurturance.
WHat we need amidst the increasing craziness of modern life is a more deeper realization of how we are all connected.
Climbing and climbers used to offer me that.
The cold stares of other punters, infamous or whatever, i recieve at some crags is a mystery (or is it).
I don't need this when I go to OUR places of worship (or hadn't you realised?)
Just because D,E or F did such and such a route doesn't mean he (its usually a man) alone created it.
Nor does regular attendence at some gym or other mean you own it.
A friendly welcome goes a long way.
Recreational rock bimbling scratches the surface of a fairly insignificant itch, in the grand scheme of things.
We must change our attitudes or be changed by our blind destruction.
Where is our reverence for nature?
Ever felt the gratitude of being alive?
THanked the rock?
I hope so.
Peas are ace.

I see what you're saying, but I think it's in part based on a false perception. You can't assume that your personal experience of intense climbing as a Sheffield resident is the same as other people's. For sure there is an amount of negativity within any group. There are good people and fools among any group. There will always be a mix of people doing things for the right and wrong motives. There is a degree of skill required for a person to take the best from a situation and not be adversely affected by the worst. Plenty of climbers try hard, even enjoy a degree of competativity without this becoming a corrupting force in their life. It's a game we all play in our own way, for some people it works and for others it doesn't. I think your view of climbing is over simplistic. Do you get more or less out of your time climbing since you stopped trying hard? I'd wager that you had the best moments as a climber during the time you were climbing at your hardest. Regardless of the motivations which got you there it's the joy of efficient motion on rock which will stay as the treasured memory.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on December 17, 2008, 01:11:33 pm
Just heard that Mike Adams has repeated super bloc this morning!

Absolute legend, nice one mike!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on December 17, 2008, 01:16:20 pm
Nice. That guy is crushmatic. Is there anything not in his satchel?!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 17, 2008, 01:25:23 pm
another face to carve into Mount Crushmore. I'll get my chisel.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 17, 2008, 01:29:29 pm
 :bow: Again!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on December 17, 2008, 01:51:09 pm
No he really is a legend of English bouldering!!

He has even done the ace :whistle:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on December 17, 2008, 01:53:42 pm
hats off to mick. proper local hero. he doesn't shy away from the king lines either.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on December 17, 2008, 01:58:51 pm
Bon Effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on December 17, 2008, 02:37:39 pm
Well done to yer man Mick and a vote from me that Stevie sticks around. I think it is healthy to have somebody bring a different perspective to the debating table, and you have certainly done that of late.

Patrul (aside from the attention seeking shenanigans) is only really irritating because he is painting a very cliche laden/black and white (and clearly untrue) picture of how things work in the modern climbing scene. Like Bonjoy said.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on December 17, 2008, 04:50:24 pm
hats off to mick. proper local hero. he doesn't shy away from the king lines either.

you should be shot for using that expression.

Mick really is a Wad of Wads, nice one.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fashionguru on December 17, 2008, 06:01:18 pm
Just thought I'd post on the Mike ascent of SB.

He actually did it 3 times and was static no wild dyno for the top(ish) hold.  (he did it 3 times because obvious 1st time but then wanted video which i did for him on my phone but fuc*** up saving it so he did it once more with me using his phone instead. Im sure he will load the vid soon)

Also of note on the repeat front from Mike was the 2nd (if im right) ascent of a problem at Gardoms South (dont know the correct name but goes something like this) "the sausage king of mersebrook" Fb 8a is more like the grade not 7c.

We also both did 3 problems (may not be new but well worth while) at Moorside.

1. Taking the left arete of the SB block (do not jam the lower left crack) to gain the rail at half height, follow this into the middle of the wall and then rock up into the crack and onto the top.
Nice prob at around 7b (V8) not dissimilar in difficulty to Savito.

2 The block to the left of this has 2 (right and left) aretes climb them both as you wish to a rounded and sandy topout. Both go at about Fb 6c but were very dirty so will prob be slightly easier if the get
traffic.

Moorside has more to offer if you can be bothered to look and clean up and makes a visit here and G S worth a day trip.


Last but not least

Great effort Mike was fab to watch.

Tony Simpson
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 17, 2008, 06:12:22 pm
Quote
1. Taking the left arete of the SB block (do not jam the lower left crack) to gain the rail at half height, follow this into the middle of the wall and then rock up into the crack and onto the top.
Nice prob at around 7b (V8) not dissimilar in difficulty to Savito.

Is this not Charlotte Dumpling, E4 5c (1986)?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on December 17, 2008, 06:56:11 pm
Thought.
Knock, knock, tap, tap.
It is not real it is not solid, until I identify with it, place some 'truth' in it.
And so my head begins to swell with THOUGHT.

Ask your self something.
What is happening?
Label your experiences yourself.
Who is to say E1 is E1?
What is normal.

Black and white thinking could make me a Newcastle fan, i prefered them when the blue star was ShiNinG.
Sour grapes and bitter seeds ... i prefered climbing when it was some kind of Pantinomime.

Jibe, i'm learning more about myself and my climbing knowledge of self grows, I would be pretty unhappy if it was stagnant.  What does make me a little twitchy is my infrequency of attendance.  In fact the FatContoller said if i don't pull my finger out i may remain grounded.  So i'm quite happy not pulling my finger out, and trying (or not) to relax more.  Yes, you are possibly right in saying the push push attitude does not suit me - punters for racecourses indeed.  I do enjoy a bit of fitness and this makes it fun, but accepting where i am at gives me more long term satisfaction.  The craving for more will never be satisfied, not beyond this moment.  What really gets my goat though is the mindless behaviour of a minority who trash other peoples fun or sense of self and nature to boot!
Not that i've never been naughty of course.  But what ii'm trying to stress in my own inimitable way (thank you) is that our community responsibilities must go beyond the bugged out craving for more.
I think Stu Littlefair fired out a pretty accurate statement when he said "the peak is like the climbing equivalent of MacDOnalds."
Lets pray and take action that it does not come to that.

 :beer2:

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stu Littlefair on December 17, 2008, 07:33:04 pm
Mmmm. McDonalds.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Falling Down on December 17, 2008, 09:14:47 pm
Listen,some of you are bored of the debate- well dont take part. If you dont give a toss stay off. We thought things would sort themselves out along time ago, they didnt.

I'm not bored. I just work most of the time so don't have time to post.  Don't spit the dummy.. there's f*ck all moderation on here and that's a good thing. Welcome to the internet. It's very different to having a regular column in the mags like in the 90's .. people have opinions here and can express them quickly and without having Neal Pearsons to edit their letters for them.

You're talking a lot of sense just don't be so f*cking precious and taking the hump when people pop your balloons or disagree with you.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 17, 2008, 09:56:41 pm
i can't believe somebody posted about mikes ascents before tony. it's a dark day.
ps sausage king of meersbrook was touted at 7c+ not 7c. seems everybody else decided to give it 7c when they did all the moves except the actual hard one. tongue out smiley.
mick's still a beast
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fashionguru on December 17, 2008, 10:01:31 pm
Is this not Charlotte Dumpling, E4 5c (1986)?
[/quote]

Hi JB,

Sorry did not read the guide. You are correct but I would say the start me and Mike did would be different to the one that you would do for CD. As I said do not jam the crack which I would do if I was only to make a 5c move.  If you stay just on the left arete as I said then this gives a bit more of a fight.

Yes it is a little eliminate (well a lot) but makes for a good and worth while problem to do if visiting.

P.s the dyno from the two cut slots to the ledge runnel is still to go and Mike was just short of it.

Tony
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on December 17, 2008, 10:02:15 pm
shit. that was dense btw. jonathon will kill me. this new broadband has warped my mind
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Houdini on December 17, 2008, 10:03:28 pm
this new broadband has wanked my mind
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on January 23, 2009, 02:06:18 pm
I see on 8a.nu that Paul Smitton has made the first repeat of Recreational Violence. Good stuff!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 23, 2009, 02:08:23 pm
Also, it looks as though Dave Cowl has made the first repeat of The Real Keel Haul. 8b'ish.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on January 23, 2009, 02:08:48 pm
mick adams did rec violence (or a variation thereon, depending how you look at it) in the summer.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on January 23, 2009, 02:25:23 pm
Quite a few people have done a left hand line, which seems to be regarded as 8a. It's a very different set of moves. I talked to Mick in september I think, and he said he had been trying the original version, but didn't quite get it.

...Though thinking about it, he did also say something about throwing for a lower sloper to the right - I wasn't quite sure what he meant, and I got the impression he hadn't done this either, but I might have misunderstood...  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on January 23, 2009, 02:36:40 pm
i'm not on about the LH version. whenever it was I did neil's sitter (according to 8a.nu this was 18th june - see, they are useful) i watched him do it getting the rec viol crimp with lh and making a very long span to the poor hold just shy of the groove on the right, then making a nails looking windmill slap to holds above. its almost like a RH variant, looked about the same grade. i like to think it was the psyche of seeing me crush NW sitter like it was a warmup gave him the psyche to get through it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 23, 2009, 02:42:48 pm
Is that stuff good or what? Will have to check it (one time)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 23, 2009, 02:46:08 pm
Neil's Wall's top quality. When I went the LH end of the crag was soaked and the RH (Neil's Wall) was baking in the sun but it all seemed good.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on January 23, 2009, 02:46:43 pm
i'm not on about the LH version. whenever it was I did neil's sitter (according to 8a.nu this was 18th june - see, they are useful) i watched him do it getting the rec viol crimp with lh and making a very long span to the poor hold just shy of the groove on the right, then making a nails looking windmill slap to holds above. its almost like a RH variant, looked about the same grade. i like to think it was the psyche of seeing me crush NW sitter like it was a warmup gave him the psyche to get through it.

Ah, that's what he was on about then. He did say he thought it was 8a+ that way. Nice one Mick! And of course, Dave, because he wouldn't have done it without you.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on January 23, 2009, 02:48:55 pm
exactly.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nathan wind on January 24, 2009, 01:29:38 pm
Also, it looks as though Dave Cowl has made the first repeat of The Real Keel Haul. 8b'ish.

Dave did this on thursday... fine effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on January 24, 2009, 07:38:05 pm
Effort to the Cowl  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on January 25, 2009, 01:25:34 am
Huffin an puFFin
When grade becomes no graDe
The mind thaT created this is none other than the sleeping realization
Of what?
I did nothing and nothing is other than good if you want it to be
THe relationship with the rok is pure and none other than that and how it is and how it is very clear
Clarity comes in waves
And we lose our selves in failure
LeaRninG from our Awareness and our relationship with the stone we are reflected back in a senSe of awareness
I Am over it
Who is tiring WHo?
I am tired by the shilly shallyings of houSe wiNe
WHin`~`g
Kerfufles
I aM
WhAt?
May as well be tossin off to the NeWs of Al GoRes ereCt dictatum on the FallacY of climbing DriVeL
LosinG Sense in Oblivion mAKEs so muCh sense when offset to watChing EastenDeRrrrr

...and thus i am told get a life
///it goes on.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on January 26, 2009, 11:45:22 am
Noticed a news report on UKC that Dave Barrans On-Sighted Little Women (E7 7a) @ Apparent North (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=338820).  :bow:

Witnessed by at least Jordan Buys (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=337661).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on January 26, 2009, 03:33:55 pm
That is impressive. An onsight of a safe and nails hard route. Font 7b+! Contender for hardest moves ever done on a trad onsight? (I'm completely ignorant, so shoot me down if I'm way out).

What safe, hard E8's are out there, waiting for climbers like Dave?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on January 26, 2009, 03:39:30 pm

What safe, hard E8's are out there, waiting for climbers like Dave?

Make a list.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on January 26, 2009, 03:49:10 pm
Make a list.

Here.

(http://www.livepencil.com/images/WALLPAPERS/wallpapers-download/fist-1024.jpg)

Oh wait, I misheard.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Graeme78 on January 26, 2009, 04:14:35 pm
Is captain invincible still classed as hard and safe? Can't remember if they were hand placed pegs. (not that I've ever been on the route, just what could have been said)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: galpinos on January 26, 2009, 04:19:31 pm
Noticed a news report on UKC that Dave Barrans On-Sighted Little Women (E7 7a) @ Apparent North (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=338820).  :bow:

Witnessed by at least Jordan Buys (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=337661).

Good to see the UKC thread has gone straight into a grade debate.

Pretty impressive stuff (the onsight, not UKC).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on January 26, 2009, 04:41:56 pm
Also, it looks as though Dave Cowl has made the first repeat of The Real Keel Haul. 8b'ish.

Yeah, good work Dave, you deserve it! :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on January 26, 2009, 05:02:29 pm
I can't think of a harder on-sight on grit than Little Women?

As to the UKC thread. It's not debating whether the route has been given some over-inflated grade or not, simply how technically difficult it is compared to other grit E7s that have been on-sighted. That's worth trying to highlight I reckon.  Dave's on-sight of Little Women is very different to an on-sight of Kaluza Klein or Deathwatch.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 26, 2009, 07:56:00 pm
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on January 26, 2009, 08:08:08 pm
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!

He's certainly on form this season, interesting to see what else he gets done  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on January 26, 2009, 08:09:08 pm
that homme's on fire
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on January 26, 2009, 10:32:55 pm
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!


Beast!!

Good effort!
 
:thumbsup:

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on January 27, 2009, 02:59:37 pm
Is captain invincible still classed as hard and safe? Can't remember if they were hand placed pegs. (not that I've ever been on the route, just what could have been said)

Invincible has F8b climbing on it, the dangerous bit is by the pegs with the natural gear being safer if I remember my old OTE correctly.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on January 27, 2009, 03:22:07 pm
Is captain invincible still classed as hard and safe? Can't remember if they were hand placed pegs. (not that I've ever been on the route, just what could have been said)

Invincible has F8b climbing on it, the dangerous bit is by the pegs with the natural gear being safer if I remember my old OTE correctly.

from my recollection of trying this on a top rope the lower arete is both hard and bold with an unpleasant landing. above this the climbing gets harder but is protected by 20 year old? pegs. probably rubbish by now. not sure how this was classed as safe as IMHO the lower arete would probably be a bold e6/7 in it's own right unless i was having a trully terrible day and missed something obvious? anybody else?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on January 27, 2009, 03:29:45 pm
This has been receiving some ground up attention. I was told the lower arete was bold but not that hard although take that with a pinch of salt. Then the next pegs were utter crap and worth taking out before getting out left to some better(ish) pegs.
Personally I wouldn't take that as safe.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JohnH on January 27, 2009, 04:37:38 pm
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!

Effort!  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 28, 2009, 05:01:20 pm
I noticed on 8a.nu Mina has done an 8a. Teamwork, in Switzerland. How many british women have climbed Font 8a?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 28, 2009, 05:31:07 pm
Effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JohnM on January 28, 2009, 08:40:20 pm
I was thinking there must be a few British Woman who have climbed Font 8a but then I couldn't think of any apart from Claire Murphy.  I wonder when we will see the first British Woman to climb 8a in Britain!?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on January 28, 2009, 11:49:46 pm
I noticed on 8a.nu Mina has done an 8a. Teamwork, in Switzerland. How many british women have climbed Font 8a?

Good effort and all that but I'm much more impressed by her ticks in Font recently.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on January 29, 2009, 08:43:53 am
Good effort and all that but I'm much more impressed by her ticks in Font recently.

Such as..?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on January 29, 2009, 01:34:42 pm
if you have to ask joe... ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 30, 2009, 06:06:20 pm
I noticed on 8a.nu Mina has done an 8a. Teamwork, in Switzerland. How many british women have climbed Font 8a?

Its a good effort, it is a hard problem! Defo a step above the other ascents on her scorecard.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on February 02, 2009, 09:54:24 am
Mr Buys did Widdop Wall on Saturday, I think Al Lee was there so hopefully there'll be some footy soon. Jordan seems to be on great form at the moment  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on February 02, 2009, 09:59:49 am
Splendid.
Was wondering whether he did it or not. We were down at the boulders with screaming children, hoping that we weren't being too distracting. Good effort, there was defintely a couple of cameras up there with him so should be some footage. But do you want to blow the onsight by watching it??
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on February 02, 2009, 10:26:33 am
good effort by jordizzle. watching him deckout from that one 4 or 5 years ago was crazy, glad he sealed the deal.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on February 02, 2009, 10:33:04 am
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?
Good effort though.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on February 02, 2009, 10:37:41 am
 :o good skills, is this the first repeat of Widdop Wall  :shrug:

i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?

Not sure about risk per se but anything that involves blood transfusions is a no-no, ergo decking out and requiring major surgery/medical attention might be a bad idea.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on February 02, 2009, 10:46:42 am
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?
Good effort though.

(http://skugg.files.wordpress.com/2007/06/can-of-worms.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on February 02, 2009, 10:51:15 am
It's not the most exciting week to be off work, now is it?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on February 02, 2009, 11:01:00 am
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?

I think that's for them / him to decide, and I'm sure he doesn't need to be questioned about it on the internet.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on February 02, 2009, 11:25:23 am
outstanding effort. as dave says, watching him man up and then deck a few years ago was hardcore, so i'm psyched he's gone back on it. top ascent.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2009, 12:02:01 pm
Good effort indeed. Mashing up the case on West Yorkshire grit.

Personally, I'm quite interested in the relationship between one's strong religious beliefs and lifestyle activities that may or may not come into conflict with those beliefs. Not as a matter of provoking nor trying to catch someone out, just genuinely interested in something like that.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on February 02, 2009, 12:18:30 pm
Well done Jordan.  As Nik said, we were there that day.  There was a shout as we left and I was waiting to hear he'd sent it.
Now all we need is a UKC grade debate  :wank:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on February 02, 2009, 12:29:43 pm
Well done Jordan.  As Nik said, we were there that day.  There was a shout as we left and I was waiting to hear he'd sent it.
Now all we need is a UKC grade debate  :wank:

Indeed if he's fallen off hit the ground and walked away how can it be E9? (No, I'm being serious god dam it)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on February 02, 2009, 12:57:53 pm
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?

I think that's for them / him to decide, and I'm sure he doesn't need to be questioned about it on the internet.

Although I disagree with the above, I realise that this isn't the thread to bring it up.

As I age, I also realise that I am increasingly becoming a cantankorous athiest agitator. I don't apologise for this, but there's a time and a place (and therefore a not-a-time and not-a-place) for it.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nike Air on February 02, 2009, 04:09:30 pm
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?
Good effort though.

Hey! I am finally registered on UKB!!
Firstly, thanks for all the positive comments you guys have posted on here. It is nice to hear some good feedback. Over the years I have noticed that forums seem to be about a good old barney/debate and I don't want to spoil your fun, but...

About the JW thing, since somebody has raised it I'd better give an answer....

As a Jehovah's Witness I do have a healthy respect for life (and the preservation of my own!!). There is, however, a line to be drawn. Driving is dangerous for instance, but that doesn't mean you would stay in your house 'just in case'. As a JW, though, I make sure my car is regularly serviced and the brakes are in good working order etc. so that I don't cause an accident. With climbing, I am certainly not going down the 'no pads, let's make it as dangerous as possible' route. Instead, with Widdop Wall and other climbs, I have gone to great lengths to try and make it as safe as possible (this is excluding my rash attempt 4 years ago, when I was younger and more foolish... and more bouncy!!). I am trying now to choose routes that are more about difficulty than danger.

In retrospect, especially watching Al's footage, French Duke was quite a bit more dangerous than anything else I've done lately. But having said that, I had invested a lot of time and attention in that route and was confident that I could climb it without falling on the day. I don't think it would be a very good candidate for a ground-up ascent though!! Now, as for Widdop Wall... it is brick hard and very sequency but the gear after the break, although very specialist, is actually really good.

Hope this answers your questions  :wave:

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2009, 04:27:42 pm
Quote
but the gear after the break, although very specialist, is actually really good.

One of the new tricam 0.25s? I carry one all the time...

Fine effort jJordan, good to have you on here too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on February 02, 2009, 04:29:16 pm
I hope you haven't just blown my onsight JB...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on February 02, 2009, 05:18:27 pm
Thanks for the answer. And as I say, brilliant effort. It probably wasn't the optimal thread to raise the question, but a question it was. I did deliberate before posting it, and my rationale was that JWs turn up on my doorstep wanting answers and posing questions, so why not visa-versa?

Incidentally, it is taking bucketloads of will power for me to not continue this debate.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on February 02, 2009, 05:56:07 pm
Good work Jordan!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JohnH on February 02, 2009, 07:49:32 pm
 :bow: Very good effort Jordan, inspiring stuff, looking forward to seeing the footage.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on February 03, 2009, 01:20:32 pm
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=340194 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=340194)

Unreal
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on February 03, 2009, 01:24:43 pm
idiots. I suppose those guys assume that if you roll a di(c)e once and get a 6, that you'll get a 6 everytime. fucking retards.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on February 03, 2009, 01:34:47 pm
idiots. I suppose those guys assume that if you roll a di(c)e once and get a 6, that you'll get a 6 everytime. fucking retards.

You're too kind.

I'm waiting for the comparisons between the wall to the left of New Statesman, Equilibrium and Three Pebble Slab.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2009, 01:35:10 pm
Email To: (email address is hidden for privacy reasons)
Michael Hood @ ukclimbing forums

Subject:

Grading

Message:

Hi.

If you don't understand the English grading system then perhaps it would be better to read up about it or ask people how it works, rather than starting an entirely purposeless thread to demonstrate your ignorance. The forum is tedious enough already.

Kind regards,
Fiend.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 03, 2009, 01:46:28 pm
To give credit where it isn't usually due, it does look as if most people on that thread are of the same opinion (with regard to the idiotic OP).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2009, 01:57:59 pm
Indeed. They're not all bad eggs. Still you'd hope a 48 yr old would know better.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on February 05, 2009, 12:37:08 pm
Becoming too locked into the finite details there is often failure to encaptulate a wider picture.
No thing exists in and of its self.
'I'm off to bomb some naughty people' (usually darkies incomparison to whities) is a perfect example of such contracted thinking, this is at the level of institutions, but such thinking occurs daily amongst us.
So i might say 'I'm going to kill you', and then try and cast a web of deceit around the offending words by claiming 'it was only a joke'.  The internal diatribe of the stained mind leaches out no matter how we try and butter ourselves up.  Just read a funny thing, two people were caught in a mars lorry trying to enter OUR country (i guess we advocate a different level of fascism than their country - we'll be fined to death for innocuous so called offences or bored to death after our dear leaders monologues - I'm rather Browned off today) their disguise was to coat themselves in mars chocolate.  If only they found milky bars they'd have gotten away with it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on February 05, 2009, 12:45:29 pm
go post your off topic wiffle elsewhere please.
I want to read about 'significant repeats' in this thread
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on February 05, 2009, 12:56:41 pm
go stick your corgette else where if you'RE bovveRed
Your opinion is like the ambrosia of the salty sea, crusty, crumbly and good on chips.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Houdini on February 05, 2009, 03:49:55 pm
LOLZ ROLFCOPTERZ ^^
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on February 06, 2009, 11:44:39 am
Not sure that it's 'significant' but Madams did Sway On the other week.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: BenF on February 06, 2009, 12:06:40 pm
Not sure that it's 'significant' but Madams did Sway On the other week.

If we reported every 8a that Mick did, we'd need a new thread.   :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on February 06, 2009, 10:38:14 pm
Extreme Long John ironing is the future!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on February 07, 2009, 11:26:21 am
the accuracy of the crease is key!
significant repeats?
i'm about to drive into town again.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on February 07, 2009, 08:19:58 pm
I hear rumours that someone may have repeated a certain Lancashire Lime test piece.  Any confirmations about?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 12, 2009, 01:04:26 pm
The ticking machine has knocked over another 8B+.......

http://www.moonclimbing.com/Gecko-Assis-n-878.html (http://www.moonclimbing.com/Gecko-Assis-n-878.html)

Effort. Looks such an amazing problem.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on February 12, 2009, 01:29:15 pm
Yowzah! Ben's footage of Kheops is fantastic. He seems to just piss it on the go he does it. Good efforts all round.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Dr T on February 22, 2009, 09:35:33 pm
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 22, 2009, 09:51:52 pm
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...

Mick Adams?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Dr T on February 22, 2009, 09:56:40 pm
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...

Mick Adams?

sounds about right, nice guy - very humble and understated...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 22, 2009, 09:58:28 pm
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...

Mick Adams?

sounds about right, nice guy - very humble and understated...


Was only a very uneducated guess.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: BenF on February 23, 2009, 07:52:01 am
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...

Mick Adams?

I think that was a very accurate guess. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 23, 2009, 08:25:25 am
The Landman crushfest continues........

http://www.moonclimbing.com/Kh%C3%A9ops-Assis-n-883.html (http://www.moonclimbing.com/Kh%C3%A9ops-Assis-n-883.html)

.....quite literally.....

http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/Partage-n-884.html (http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/Partage-n-884.html)

....amazing.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fashionguru on February 23, 2009, 09:19:48 am
Yep the "Northern Bloke" was indeed Mike as Ben said.

He was down for three days cleaned up with most of the hard problems and then went for a play on the cuttings boulder fields.

I lost count of how many problems he did over the weekend but I think it is fair to say there was not much left to go at for another trip.

Think he did a 1st ascent of a problem since holds breaking (or something like that), it was mentioned in the new guide we got a look at while at the crag. Will have to wait to confirm.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on February 23, 2009, 09:26:17 am
Isn't Tyler's blog fantastic.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 23, 2009, 10:29:57 am
Isn't Tyler's blog fantastic.

You can't skim read either as you may just miss the bit when he says he has done a problem!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on February 23, 2009, 10:34:29 am
Quote from: Ty 'Crusher' Landman
Keith has captured all my ascents on video, so lookout for his upcoming Font film due in a couple months.

L'Etranger Part Deux  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on February 23, 2009, 10:45:50 am
You can't skim read either as you may just miss the bit when he says he has done a problem!

Or the bit where he says "Time to satch it up"

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dom on February 23, 2009, 05:45:54 pm
is anyone else having problems seeing the moonblog?  I think its cause it redirects me to usa.moonclimbing.com then the blog link doesn't work from there,  any sugestions?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 24, 2009, 12:59:54 pm
Sean Gelder has repeated Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell. This weighs in at V12. Think this is probably the second ascent.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 02, 2009, 03:14:45 pm
Tyler pisses another 8C. (http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/The%20Next%20Level-n-887.html)

 :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on March 02, 2009, 03:25:07 pm
didn't realise that was previously unrepeated.

Quote
It was possible. I could do it right now. I could eat bolognese tonight.

That's the spirit.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 02, 2009, 03:40:55 pm
I make his ticklist in a month (8A and above):

Amok 8A
Fata Morgana 8A
Cetait Demain 8A
Apparement 8A
Les Beaux Quartiers 8A
Atresie 8A (in the same session as the Big 4)
Fata Morgana Bas 8A+
Ubik 8A+
Karma 8A+
Partage 8A+
Gecko 8A+/8B
L'Insoutenable.......8B
Ubik Assis 8B
Kheops 8B
Satan I Helvete 8B
Apparemment Assis 8B
Gecko Assis 8B+
Kheops Assis 8B+
Satan I Helvete Assis 8C

Fucking outstanding.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 02, 2009, 03:46:31 pm
I don't know what was more impressive, his tick list or you compiling that list  ;)

I always wonder though, whats is he going to have left in a few years.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 02, 2009, 03:48:59 pm
 :lol:

He'll just have to spend more than a couple of sessions on things. There are still plenty of projects about!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on March 02, 2009, 03:51:33 pm
fuckin sick is what it is!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 02, 2009, 04:25:58 pm
I make his ticklist in a month (8A and above):

Amok 8A
Fata Morgana 8A
Cetait Demain 8A
Apparement 8A
Les Beaux Quartiers 8A
Atresie 8A (in the same session as the Big 4)
Fata Morgana Bas 8A+
Ubik 8A+
Karma 8A+
Partage 8A+
Gecko 8A+/8B
L'Insoutenable.......8B
Ubik Assis 8B
Kheops 8B
Satan I Helvete 8B
Apparemment Assis 8B
Gecko Assis 8B+
Kheops Assis 8B+
Satan I Helvete Assis 8C

Fucking outstanding.

Thanks r-man :)

(In this case, not the usual one, more like Rainman).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 02, 2009, 04:31:45 pm
Quantas never crashed.

Look I do adding up for a living. Compiling that list was ten minute's light relief!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Percy B on March 02, 2009, 04:43:07 pm
I see Ty's training hard for the real work of representing the Works as part of our team for the CWIF (see the comps section if you're still oblivious)
I believe we will be sporting what I like to call a "strong team".
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 02, 2009, 04:48:15 pm
Nevermind all that gravy, I've just had a report with some real meat: Dense has done Berezina.

 :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 02, 2009, 04:53:57 pm
Nevermind all that gravy, I've just had a report with some real meat: Dense has done Berezina.

 :o


:dance1:   :beer2:  :shag:

Actually, forget the last one.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on March 02, 2009, 05:11:31 pm
I see Ty's training hard for the real work of representing the Works as part of our team for the CWIF (see the comps section if you're still oblivious)

Have you ever considered calling it the Spring Climbing Works International Festival?   :whistle:


Tyler -  :bow: Un-b-fuckin-leivable!

Dense -  :great: All that deadhanging must have done some good after all.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cowboyhat on March 02, 2009, 06:11:00 pm
F U C K !

I'm off to buy a 78" TV and some rings!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on March 02, 2009, 07:19:39 pm
I make his ticklist in a month (8A and above):

Amok 8A
Fata Morgana 8A
Cetait Demain 8A
Apparement 8A
Les Beaux Quartiers 8A
Atresie 8A (in the same session as the Big 4)
Fata Morgana Bas 8A+
Ubik 8A+
Karma 8A+
Partage 8A+
Gecko 8A+/8B
L'Insoutenable.......8B
Ubik Assis 8B
Kheops 8B
Satan I Helvete 8B
Apparemment Assis 8B
Gecko Assis 8B+
Kheops Assis 8B+
Satan I Helvete Assis 8C

Fucking outstanding.

I love you I wish I could climb like you.... please teach me
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on March 03, 2009, 02:17:06 pm
http://www.vimeo.com/3451817 (http://www.vimeo.com/3451817)

ty doing

t-rex assis, conviction (flash), fata morgana bas



Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on March 03, 2009, 02:31:51 pm
have you been shooting on the 5d pritch?

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 03, 2009, 02:49:07 pm
He makes them all look about 6A.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on March 03, 2009, 02:57:21 pm
true indeed. they're within 4/5 grades of what he's capable of climbing. crazy.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: RASTATA on March 03, 2009, 03:11:33 pm
when 8B's not that hard anymore and 8A is approaching a rest. ...

 :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on March 03, 2009, 03:53:32 pm
That is awesome, he pisses them.

Just wondering, isn't Fata bas a bit silly? I thought it had been kind of ignored in favour of the assis, have I got this wrong? Doesn't the assis also get 8B?

Beasty.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 03, 2009, 04:22:24 pm
We never got to the bas assis bottom of it on the other thread. In 7+8 only the stand and the sit are listed at 8A and 8B.

Tyler said 8A+ for this on his blog.  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 03, 2009, 04:34:46 pm
Quote
ty doing

t-rex assis, conviction (flash), fata morgana bas

Does that put Dense's forest 8a tick firmly to bed then? You win some you lose some...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on March 03, 2009, 04:51:18 pm
Also isn't Conviction a sit start?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on March 03, 2009, 05:15:45 pm
i didn't mean to start any controversy, i used guide book/bleau.info grades. problems are all as described. conviction could have a sit but it hasn't been done.
fata bas is weird but it is aproblem and it does start there. tyler thought it was only 8a+ but i didn't want to down  rate it personally as i don't know what grade it is so i used guide/bleau .info.

hope that clears it up
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on March 03, 2009, 05:20:41 pm
ps - press the hd button and watch it in glorious hi def rather than musho vision
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on March 03, 2009, 06:00:13 pm
Its actually the sit to fata morgana that doesnt really get done, the bas is repeated more frequently and i think consensus is 8a+!

Tyler is climbing in another level at the moment, watching him in font was sweet, he dances his way up some hard stuff!

Keep it up
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on March 03, 2009, 06:09:24 pm
conviction could have a sit but it hasn't been done.
Oh, OK. It is described as a sit start in the 7+8's guide (and on bleau.info I think).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 03, 2009, 06:52:30 pm
It may not be sitting but Ty's start is a big move lower than Dense's; he blames Keith. Tippex?

Still he's got my pants down with Berezina, best get deadhanging.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on March 03, 2009, 07:33:58 pm
http://www.mattwilderclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://www.mattwilderclimbing.blogspot.com/)

pretty good day out!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: butters on March 03, 2009, 08:14:08 pm
http://www.mattwilderclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://www.mattwilderclimbing.blogspot.com/)

pretty good day out!!!!

And after all those big V Grades numbers he still only got second place!! :jaw:

bluebrad
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 03, 2009, 10:20:16 pm
And another vintage Landman day  ::)

Big Dragon - 8a+ - Ten Minutes
Synapses- 8a - Flash
Elephunk - 8b
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2009, 10:28:59 pm
Holy crap. he makes those routes look like strolls.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on March 04, 2009, 09:42:46 am
conviction is wrongly described as a sitter but does start low on obvious good holds.dense did the last move cos keith told him thats where it started.always the bridesmaid never the bride!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on March 04, 2009, 10:27:54 am
A-ha cheers for that info. Looking back at the video it does look as though a mega tallie could be sat back on the mats and pull on where Tyler does I suppose. A true sitter does look possible also.
Anyway thanks for clearing that up.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on March 05, 2009, 10:11:55 am
the other obvious reason for my starting conviction there, apart from what's been said, on bleau it shows photo's of the first ascentionist on the problem. if you look at this then factor in that the problem got 7c+/8a, which from them holds it certainly feels like. now factor in that starting low, ie where tyler starts, you go rh lh rh to top. the 1st ascent must have gone rh lh rh to shocking hold on same level rh again to top. in other words for that sequence he does basically two moves of the same 7c+/8a grade to cover the same bit of ground you can do in one. obviously i have renounced this as my 1st 8a in font, which i never felt too comfortable with anyway because of shit guide description, lack of knowledge, the fact that it says sit start when you just can't etc, and the fact that i would like my first one to be obvious and classic.
doylo christened it conviction part deux. which i still find very amusing. anyone who thinks this is a cop-out, which it is, should go and do it. for all its sins you know you've just had to pull really very hard. don't let the casualness of tyler fool you, he has admitted to being on another level ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 05, 2009, 10:19:28 am
(http://i41.tinypic.com/104entx.jpg)

 :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 17, 2009, 10:15:49 am
http://www.moonclimbing.com/Un-Beau-Dimanche-n-891.html (http://www.moonclimbing.com/Un-Beau-Dimanche-n-891.html)

 :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Percy B on March 17, 2009, 10:34:20 am
That's it then - proof that Ty is a true all-round bouldering master. There are a lot of font 8b+ climbers who can only dream of climbing Duel - I think Jacky Godoffe is one of them! Nice work, junior! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 27, 2009, 06:13:09 pm
Bernd Zangerl has repeated Dave Grahams "From Dirt Grows The Flowers" 8c, in Swis.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on March 27, 2009, 06:30:24 pm
Bernd Zangerl has repeated Dave Grahams "From Dirt Grows The Flowers" 8c, in Swis.

(http://www.klettern.de/sixcms/media.php/6/thumbnails/Bernd2.jpg.1094644.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on March 27, 2009, 08:08:40 pm
He was all over it last week when we were there, but conditions weren't good. I was well impressed.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 27, 2009, 08:52:19 pm
Rockin the three stripes once again. Respect to the Dimitar Berbatov lookalike BEAST.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dontfollowme on March 27, 2009, 09:07:05 pm
Is he sponsored by them?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 28, 2009, 09:17:28 pm
Sam Cattell repeated full circle today. Can't remember what it is in the new guide but he seemed to think it was more V11 than 12. Having done it from one move in i'd be inclined to agree.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on March 31, 2009, 12:05:40 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfYOORbTa64&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fclimbingnarc.com%2F2009%2F03%2Fbernd-zangerl-from-dirt-grows-the-flowers-v15-video&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfYOORbTa64&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fclimbingnarc.com%2F2009%2F03%2Fbernd-zangerl-from-dirt-grows-the-flowers-v15-video&feature=player_embedded)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on March 31, 2009, 08:32:47 am
looks ace, and not a over-caffeinated sugary drink company logo in sight.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on April 02, 2009, 08:21:41 pm
good vid, liked the cleaning section as well
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 03, 2009, 08:38:51 am
Ty's forest ticklist. (http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/Back%20in%20Blighty-n-894.html)

Nothing short of stunning.

Noticeable that he's only taken 8B+ for Satan I Helvete Assis which was originally given 8C.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on April 04, 2009, 02:45:04 pm
god zangerl makes that look totally piss I always thought watchin him on other stuff that it may not be that hard but I guess he is just that good  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on April 04, 2009, 10:40:41 pm
Ty's forest ticklist. (http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/Back%20in%20Blighty-n-894.html)

Nothing short of stunning.

Noticeable that he's only taken 8B+ for Satan I Helvete Assis which was originally given 8C.

the reel tick list, plus he did a couple of projects that he is not going to claim

Cuvier : Contrôle Technique 7c+ ~ 29.03.2009
Buthiers Canard : Big Bang 8a+ ~ 28.03.2009
Cul de Chien : Total Éclipse 8a+ ~ 27.03.2009
Cuvier : La Balance 7c+ ~ 27.03.2009
Le Calvaire : L'Aplat du Gain 8a ~ 24.03.2009
Montrouget Ouest : Goldfinger 7c+ ~ 23.03.2009
Rocher Gréau : Tigre et Dragon 8a ~ 19.03.2009
Rocher Gréau : Mégalithe 7c+ (7c) ~ 19.03.2009
Roche aux Oiseaux : Le Mandarin 8a (7c+) ~ 17.03.2009
Cuisinière Crête Sud : Duel (black 34) 8a ~ 15.03.2009
Cuisinière Crête Sud : La Chose assis 8a+ ~ 15.03.2009
Franchard Meyer : Toutes Peines Confondues 8a (7c+) ~ 15.03.2009
Rocher Saint-Germain : Délire Onirique 8a+ ~ 11.03.2009
Marlanval : Elephunk 8b ~ 03.03.2009
Cassepot Roches Grises : Synapses 8a (7c+) ~ 03.03.2009
Petit Bois : Big Dragon 8a+ ~ 02.03.2009
Coquibus Longs Vaux : Satan i Helvete assis 8c ~ 01.03.2009
Cuisinière Crête Sud : La Chose 7c+ ~ 01.03.2009
Apremont Envers : L'Apparemment en départ bas 8b ~ 27.02.2009
Coquibus Longs Vaux : Satan i Helvete 8b ~ 26.02.2009
Cuvier Rempart : Atrésie 8a ~ 24.02.2009
Cuvier Rempart : Big Golden 7c+ ~ 24.02.2009
Buthiers Piscine : Partage 8a+ ~ 22.02.2009
Cuvier Rempart : Khéops assis 8c ~ 21.02.2009
Franchard Isatis : L'Insoutenable Légèreté de l'Être 8a+ ~ 21.02.2009
Cuvier Rempart : C'Était Demain 8a ~ 21.02.2009
Rocher du Potala : Directe du Surplomb de la Mée 8a+ (8a) ~ 19.02.2009
Cuvier Rempart : T-Rex assis 8a (8a+) ~ 18.02.2009
Cuvier Rempart : T-Rex 7c+ (8a) ~ 18.02.2009
Coquibus Longs Vaux : Fata Morgana bas 8b ~ 15.02.2009
Coquibus Longs Vaux : Fata Morgana 8a ~ 15.02.2009
Franchard Cuisinière : Karma 8a+ ~ 14.02.2009
Franchard Isatis : L'Insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre 8b ~ 12.02.2009
Rocher de Bouligny : Gecko assis 8b+ ~ 11.02.2009
Coquibus Rumont : Conviction 8a (7c+) ~ 06.02.2009
Franchard Isatis : De Vita Beata 8a (7c+) ~ 04.02.2009
Cuvier Rempart : Khéops 8b ~ 03.02.2009
Rocher de Bouligny : Gecko 8a+ (8b) ~ 31.01.2009
Cuvier : Hypothèse 7c+ ~ 31.01.2009
Les Mammouths : Ubik assis 8b ~ 29.01.2009
Les Mammouths : Ubik 8a+ ~ 29.01.2009
Rocher de Bouligny : Les Beaux Quartiers (virtual 2) 8a (8a+) ~ 28.01.2009
Rocher de Bouligny : Amok 8a ~ 28.01.2009

oh yes plus the 500 or so bleow 7c but above 7a
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: n_man on April 05, 2009, 11:55:54 am
Never felt the need to say this before - word, waddage and legend. Who's done better than that??????
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on April 05, 2009, 07:59:17 pm
must be at the top of the tree after that performance.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Serpico on April 05, 2009, 10:36:01 pm
must be at the top of the tree after that performance.

But could he have done it in front of a crowd of piss-taking 14yr old girls? It takes a special kind of man to step up to that kind of pressure and deliver.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on April 06, 2009, 10:46:24 am
i doubt it, there's only one.......

and anyway i thought they were 12
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on April 21, 2009, 11:08:53 am
Dolph repeated the ss to Axiom at Fairy Steps last week and Walk Away standup the day before yesterday (with similar/same beta as Greg). Good effort beast!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on April 21, 2009, 11:10:53 am
Good stuff.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatneck on April 21, 2009, 08:25:01 pm
Quote
Dolph repeated the ss to Axiom at Fairy Steps last week and Walk Away standup the day before yesterday (with similar/same beta as Greg). Good effort beast!

Beast! Been so warm as well! Nice one  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on April 25, 2009, 04:18:38 pm
No way! Effort beast!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on April 27, 2009, 01:26:45 pm
Nacho did superman avec le crimp yesterday! Beast
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 27, 2009, 01:40:43 pm
Good effort. The strong bastard!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Terrace Ghost on April 27, 2009, 03:12:08 pm
Andy Earl made a quick repeat of Dan's Arc Royal yesterday
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on April 27, 2009, 03:25:50 pm
 :o 
Effort Earl!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 27, 2009, 03:26:13 pm
blimey.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 27, 2009, 03:34:35 pm
What cofe said.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on April 27, 2009, 03:36:03 pm
What Jasper said about what cofe said.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on April 27, 2009, 03:39:47 pm
What dave said.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on April 27, 2009, 05:46:35 pm
Andy Earl made a quick repeat of Dan's Arc Royal yesterday

Amazing effort!

We met Dan for a Stone Circles photo shoot at Queens last Monday. What a crag, wish I'd made the effort to go before! Ark Royal is even better close up and Queen Kong has to be the best 8A in the country!

This afternoon El Mocho called me for directions (he was lost on the way to the crag).

It's funny how a place can go from peaceful obscurity to 'crag of the moment' in such a short amount of time...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: carlisle slapper on April 27, 2009, 08:48:23 pm
by the sounds of it Andy has found far superior beta on the bottom crux section whereby you can now get the crux pocket static, which means that the sitter will be incredibly doable now and the stand up is piss, Andy has also found a better sequence on the top by going slightly out right away from the arete, which is something i have done before as i warm up on that section of wall so its probably worth forgetting my version of keeping to the arete as it is clearly pretty contrived now, That said the line also goes on the LHS to the top the moves are basic and obvious and i've done all but one of them. So this opens up the potential of climbing the whole line on its LHS.

I'd estimate that this is probably soft 8a now if the move to the pocket is at all more reliable as it was the only really hard move on the problem.

That said the sitter into this will now be an amazing 8a+ish line

and the LHS all the way will be an amazing 8b/+ish and the true 'line'.

goes to show how hard it is to find lines which are geniunely hard which force a hard sequence which isn't duff. Especially on sandstone

Watson made the 2nd ascent of Red Dragon too, which is also a good effort and well worth a mention.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on April 28, 2009, 09:11:00 am
All good stuff. Better get working on it then Mr Slapper  :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on April 28, 2009, 08:40:51 pm
Louis Armstrong, 4th ascent, Nacho Sanchez
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2009, 08:58:54 pm
Louis Armstrong, 4th ascent, Nacho Sanchez

Not a bad few days he has had!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on April 28, 2009, 09:14:28 pm
fucking beasted it once he'd remembered the correct sequence.
Think dobbin has vid, maybe up on vimeo soon?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on April 28, 2009, 09:25:37 pm
fucking beasted it once he'd remembered the correct sequence.
Think dobbin has vid, maybe up on vimeo soon?

probably very soon! I'm sure its gettting streamed from the car as we speak.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2009, 09:28:03 pm
fucking beasted it once he'd remembered the correct sequence.
Think dobbin has vid, maybe up on vimeo soon?

probably very soon! I'm sure its gettting streamed from the car as we speak.

I am suprised Dobbin didn't have a real time stream as it happend.  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 29, 2009, 09:09:41 am
Excellent stuff Nacho!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on April 30, 2009, 08:35:08 am
probably very soon! I'm sure its gettting streamed from the car as we speak.
I am suprised Dobbin didn't have a real time stream as it happend.  :lol:

Now there is an idea! Uploading now. 45% complete as I type this....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on April 30, 2009, 08:48:07 am
"http://vimeo.com/4408696"
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: superfurrymonkey on April 30, 2009, 10:46:49 am
Having pulled on this and tried some of the moves without any success I'm totally gob smacked how he crushed that with what looked like ease.  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on April 30, 2009, 12:54:25 pm
Genius video dobbin!

Nach nacho man!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on April 30, 2009, 01:01:35 pm
i want to be a nacho man

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/2313556732_13eba22f03.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on April 30, 2009, 03:12:03 pm
Good shit! And great soundtrack. Would go more often if that was a resident fixture!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on April 30, 2009, 10:25:58 pm
Totally genius video (and nice ascent too)... the most appropriate soundtrack ever
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on May 01, 2009, 07:51:20 am
p.s. YOU can live with the macho man for just £300 per month (including bills)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on May 01, 2009, 12:09:56 pm
p.s. YOU can live with the macho man for just £300 per month (including bills)

Do you get a bed though for that price  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on May 01, 2009, 12:13:54 pm
when i heard he was called nacho i just assumed it was a hilarious gag based on him being spanish. i was a bit disappointed to discover it's his real name.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on May 01, 2009, 02:07:39 pm
er, nachos are mexican
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on May 01, 2009, 02:10:54 pm
is that mexico, the former spanish colony?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: yorkshireman on May 02, 2009, 11:39:58 am
Watson made the 2nd ascent of Red Dragon too, which is also a good effort and well worth a mention.


watson did queen kong from a sitter yesterday while we were at queens,just before the rain arrived
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on May 04, 2009, 08:31:47 pm
 After being way close the last couple of visits, Nacho sealed the deal on Keen Roof today, more good work from the Spanish beast  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Falling Down on May 04, 2009, 08:44:32 pm
when i heard he was called nacho i just assumed it was a hilarious gag based on him being spanish. i was a bit disappointed to discover it's his real name.

Similarly, I thought Nacho Sanchez was the nickname of some young beast I'd never heard of called Derek Stainthorpe or something equally prosaic.  However, I was quite excited to discover it was real name. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on May 04, 2009, 09:15:39 pm
After being way close the last couple of visits, Nacho sealed the deal on Keen Roof today, more good work from the Spanish beast  :bow:

nice! he was insanely close the other day.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on May 05, 2009, 01:13:29 pm
Nacho the crusher!! Bo shangles! Said it felt harder than louis armstrong to him to!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on May 05, 2009, 04:41:03 pm
Nice one Nacho - the milky bar guacamole is on me. ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on May 05, 2009, 05:53:13 pm
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"! Good shit Nacho, the two 8b limestone roof testpieces of Britain both in a few weeks!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on May 05, 2009, 07:47:00 pm
"Oh my god LOOK at that guy".

How the fuck have I remembered that?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on May 06, 2009, 07:46:09 am
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"! Good shit Nacho, the two 8b limestone roof testpieces of Britain both in a few weeks a week!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on May 06, 2009, 08:26:02 am
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"!

 :) If he gets up, then they'll all get up. It'll be anarchy.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on May 06, 2009, 11:19:00 am
pick it up...... yeah pull it down baby....whoa whose house is this!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on May 06, 2009, 08:28:32 pm
It's not about power... it's basically about momentum. (Come on Savage!)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Percy B on May 06, 2009, 08:30:45 pm
Keita Mogaki flashed La Danse de Balrog at Branson t'other day.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chummer on May 06, 2009, 09:38:21 pm
Quote
It's not about power... it's basically about momentum.
Quote
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"!

'simple, two moves, first move up to an incut slot'
'Yosemite stone masters!'
'Yer! If i can't do these problems, i wan't someone to do them'

I was tempted to start a 'favourite Greg Loh quote' thread..'yer!' :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on May 06, 2009, 09:56:24 pm
In Squamish there is a 'Loh' start to No Troublems, the classic V10.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on May 06, 2009, 09:57:44 pm
Keita Mogaki flashed La Danse de Balrog at Branson t'other day.

I was expecting that name to yield a ripped up monster balrog flashing bird!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on May 07, 2009, 07:09:34 pm
Quote
It's not about power... it's basically about momentum.
Quote
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"!

'simple, two moves, first move up to an incut slot'
'Yosemite stone masters!'
'Yer! If i can't do these problems, i wan't someone to do them'

I was tempted to start a 'favourite Greg Loh quote' thread..'yer!' :thumbsup:


I met a couple of Americans in Magic Woods a few years ago. They told me that one of Greg Loh's training regimes was bashing his fingertips into a wall. His aim? Kill the nerve endings, then you can crimp harder...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 07, 2009, 07:47:13 pm
Mawson did power ranger today.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on May 08, 2009, 10:59:15 am
Mawson did power ranger today.

fuckin bastard.

not really, good to see a man no longer underachieving
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: MorganW on May 08, 2009, 02:20:30 pm
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"! Good shit Nacho, the two 8b limestone roof testpieces of Britain both in a few weeks!

Just wondering why a Spaniard would come all the way over to climb some british slimestone.  Great to see just curious.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 08, 2009, 02:23:58 pm
Because he has impeccable taste?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on May 08, 2009, 02:25:29 pm
yes can't fault his crag choice of the Tor and the Cave. Just have to get something done on the Box and Minus 10 then he could retire happy...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 08, 2009, 02:31:25 pm
Don't forget he's also recently done Superman and is working on something rather hard at the mighty Rubicon........
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatneck on May 10, 2009, 09:56:35 pm
Merseysides strongest weak man Richie Crouch crushed Monoblock tonight on only his second session! He's trying to play it quiet but I thought it was eminently worthwhile of a mention on here as it's only the 6th ascent in twenty odd years. He managed the top section without any pre-inspection and I'm really fucking made up for him! Good work beast  :bow:

Pictures to follow...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saintlade on May 10, 2009, 11:25:51 pm
Will try and sort pictures in the morning. He locked the shit out of the top moves; was most impressive. I'm sure Rich'll stay true to form and will soon be lapping Monoblock with French blows on every move (why isn't there a French blow emoticon yet?). Or better yet a one handed ascent  :wank:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on May 10, 2009, 11:44:19 pm
Gosh.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on May 10, 2009, 11:51:57 pm
I wish my esteemed partner in crime would halt being so damn prolific for one moment! Good work you fat grease laden curry whore!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on May 11, 2009, 11:04:58 am
Did he have 5 curries and some tinnies in front of the football to celebrate?

 :thumbsup:

Good effort crouch, you can officially count yourself as a slab climbing master now (which means you never have to do one ever again)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saintlade on May 11, 2009, 10:46:02 pm
Some fat greasy punter levitating on Monoblock

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3312/3523509342_c3d7bc5d19.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/38311012@N04/3523509342/)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3594/3522729655_92e9f50bcc.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/38311012@N04/3522729655/)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3544/3523503598_fdf3f33fbe.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/38311012@N04/3523503598/)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/3522680949_3fcbfd1aac.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/38311012@N04/3522680949/)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/3523528672_4e368b6f89.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/38311012@N04/3523528672/)


B A L A I S E ! ! !
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 11, 2009, 10:52:38 pm
If only there was an unrepeated, hard, holdless slab somewhere that Crouch could go and do  :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 11, 2009, 11:01:31 pm
If only there was an unrepeated, hard, holdless slab somewhere that Crouch could go and do  :-\

In fact, there are two.  :o Would you believe it...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 11, 2009, 11:07:40 pm
Yeah, but they can't both be in esoteric quarries, surely?

I guess if you add the big G's slab at Stanworth, that could be a Crouch Quadumvirate Mission, or something  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on May 11, 2009, 11:21:24 pm
LOL!

Like that first picture :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on May 12, 2009, 06:30:16 am
That big pocket's not in.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on May 12, 2009, 08:18:30 am
Crouching tiger. hidden talent.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on May 12, 2009, 09:12:44 am
LOL!

Like that first picture :)

 :agree: DOF on first picture is very good

(hope its effective use of aperture/focal length and not PS  :spank:)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 12, 2009, 09:28:52 am
I don't do it myself... but I would argue if you can't tell, it doesn't matter.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on May 12, 2009, 09:43:59 am
I don't do it myself... but I would argue if you can't tell, it doesn't matter.

Aye, I guess that's a fair point, time to scrutinise the original  :P
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on May 12, 2009, 10:18:36 am
Actually I like it for the angle and the sheerness (particularly in the full-size) rather than the DOF, I'd like it pretty much the same without the latter.



Mr popp: tres witty  ::)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on May 12, 2009, 10:44:47 am
... it's only the 6th ascent in twenty odd years...


Who were the other 5?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on May 12, 2009, 12:03:16 pm
Healey, Davidson, some grumpy old git, Chadwick, Adams (last two might have been in reverse order).

Apologies for the earlier 'joke', it was really only intended for consumption on merseyside.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on May 12, 2009, 02:49:58 pm
Really nice shots stu. I've firm designs on nailing this too at some point in time. Alas my curry budget fund probably isn't great enough.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saintlade on May 12, 2009, 03:26:06 pm
Thanks for the praise guys, shots are straight from camera (hence poor exposure on a couple shots). Too lazy to photoshop at the mo, Alas, didn't take RAWs so you'll have to trust me on this :) taken on a 400d with an 85mm lens. Really want to start getting back to the photography, need some full frame action but am too poor. Let me know when you're gonna send and I'll hit you up with some coverage Monolith.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on May 12, 2009, 04:18:11 pm
Really nice sequence. I like the first especially for its composition, DOF etc but also, as I think Fiend said, because it gives such a good sense of the nature of the climbing. Nice one alround.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 12, 2009, 10:00:46 pm
I think you may be right Andy although it was heavily overgrown i think apart from the cleaned section i followed  :shrug: I'll have to get back and do it again in Boreal's and blinkers this week and learn to  :rtfm:  :-[
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Will Hunt on May 13, 2009, 03:13:18 am
Holy! Only just noticed this. Much wad to you, Rich. If you'd told me you'd done this the other day then I would have congratulated you then.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatneck on May 13, 2009, 08:26:11 am
No need to do it again lad, you followed the exact line that Ewan showed me and you've got nothing to worry about!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on May 13, 2009, 09:21:50 am
I feel I should reiterate that my comment about the slot was a complete joke. Mick and Pete used it; I didn't, but only because it never occured to me that I might be able to reach it. That's the great thing about Monoblock, its a proper pure line that you climb however you can. Very fine effort Richie.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on May 13, 2009, 09:23:32 am
word Richie - are they the new 5.10 slippers? where'd you get em?

p.s. good effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 13, 2009, 11:04:18 am
Cheers Will ^^

@ Cofe - They are the 5X's I keep plugging to anyone who enquires! I really rate them as a great all rounder, at home in the cave pressing and heel hooking as well as on the vertical edging stuff at Pex (I had to order them online through bananafingers as they weren't available in v12).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on May 13, 2009, 11:16:48 am
nice one. are they at all like the blue slippers, or indeed the early zlippers (fit and performance wise)?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on May 13, 2009, 11:56:44 am
Great Effort Richie, that is a rapid ascent, i did the thing in bout '97 started workin it it in '94 lol, you should get yo self upto stanworth, there's a slab there that be up your street if u cranking this stuff & aint too much harder! Probes
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 11:58:47 am
Yeah, I notice Richie ignored my comment about the other 3 slabs to try.  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: BenF on May 13, 2009, 12:22:27 pm
Apologies for the earlier 'joke', it was really only intended for consumption on merseyside.

Don't worry Andy, I said that kind of thing to Rich pretty much as soon as he'd done it (or rather as soon as he'd thought he'd done it).  And never ever apologise for pointing out where people have gone wrong at Pex. 

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 13, 2009, 12:33:55 pm
I think it's time to get back on NW overhang  :whistle:

@ G and Probes, I'm planning on avoiding any more vertical shenanigans for as long as possible and want to get back to the cave asap (which strangely proved to be excellent training for pex  :-\)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on May 13, 2009, 01:03:08 pm
i did the thing in bout '97 started workin it it in '94 lol

This seems to be a previously unknown ascent!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 01:07:24 pm
G and Probes, I'm planning on avoiding any more vertical shenanigans for as long as possible

(http://icons.iconarchive.com/icons/mugenB16/the-attic/Chicken-icon.jpg)  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on May 13, 2009, 01:19:46 pm
i did the thing in bout '97 started workin it it in '94 lol

This seems to be a previously unknown ascent!!

I was just thinking the same thing - Probes who are you: Paul ?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on May 13, 2009, 02:32:05 pm
Crouch, those bitter old men are just jealous of the new skool method on NW overhang. ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on May 13, 2009, 02:39:50 pm
I think it's time to get back on NW overhang  :whistle:

@ G and Probes, I'm planning on avoiding any more vertical shenanigans for as long as possible and want to get back to the cave asap (which strangely proved to be excellent training for pex  :-\)

Dont do it man... climbing vertically's a dying art.. summit im equally guilty of dismissing, NW cave might feel good but it aint clever  :-\  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 13, 2009, 02:47:39 pm
Aaron Tonks has also just done Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 02:57:56 pm
Do you not fancy doing it, A?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on May 13, 2009, 03:01:49 pm
Aaron Tonks has also just done Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell.


Good stuff.
Which one is that Adam?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 13, 2009, 03:03:26 pm
Do you not fancy doing it, A?

Don't think ill be doing much unless my finger gets any better. Hurt in Monday night, collateral ligament i think. Nothing suddenly just went, warmed up badly, then crimping it started to hurt. Feels tight and cant extend it fully without a little pain. Been hot and colding it and been rubbing gel into it. No better today than Monday.  :(
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 13, 2009, 03:04:23 pm
Aaron Tonks has also just done Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell.


Good stuff.
Which one is that Adam?

That V12 of Clements.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 03:06:16 pm
Which one is that Adam?

Kinda Cloning Technology reverse.
Start far right, follow Tom's Traverse Reverse then down through the roof to the start of Screaming Slave.  Then shuffle shuffle left, up What's This For to the good hold, across Crucifix Kiss, keep on left to the jugs above The Beauty of Being Numb.


A, sorry 'bout the finger.  You can join the Pissed Off Fucked Finger Club if ya want :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on May 13, 2009, 03:11:48 pm
Which one is that Adam?

Which one is that Adam?

Kinda Cloning Technology reverse.
Start far right, follow Tom's Traverse Reverse then down through the roof to the start of Screaming Slave.  Then shuffle shuffle left, up What's This For to the good hold, across Crucifix Kiss, keep on left to the jugs above The Beauty of Being Numb.



Ah that link  8)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on May 13, 2009, 03:14:10 pm
Which one is that Adam?

Which one is that Adam?

Kinda Cloning Technology reverse.
Start far right, follow Tom's Traverse Reverse then down through the roof to the start of Screaming Slave.  Then shuffle shuffle left, up What's This For to the good hold, across Crucifix Kiss, keep on left to the jugs above The Beauty of Being Numb.



Ah that link  8)

 ??? howd that get in there!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2009, 03:28:23 pm
You have entered concentric quoting hell.  :guilty:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 03:35:40 pm
You have entered concentric quoting hell.  :guilty:

Quote from: GCW
Too right!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2009, 03:47:35 pm
Quote from: Jaspersharpe
lol rofl
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on May 13, 2009, 03:53:51 pm
Coor took a scorching then, thought id never get out.

 :devangel:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Will Hunt on May 13, 2009, 05:35:00 pm
The question of who Probes is still stands. Is this some unheard of repeat of Monoblock? What a trade route it has become. I'll have to make a quick send of Joe's start next time I'm back to raise the bar a bit.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 05:38:42 pm
Ain't my place to add names to your list Will, but Probes has come 2nd to Parry and knocked Hockstack into 3rd in competitions of the past.

Go figure  :P
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 13, 2009, 05:41:04 pm
The question of who Probes is still stands. Is this some unheard of repeat of Monoblock? What a trade route it has become. I'll have to make a quick send of Joe's start next time I'm back to raise the bar a bit.

He is well know around these parts. All rounder too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Will Hunt on May 13, 2009, 06:01:37 pm
Ain't my place to add names to your list Will

That's funny, Senor Wallis coz that's exactly what you just did.

Ouch! Got your number, PR  :P

To be honest I wasn't that fussed about it for the list. Merely wanted to know who'd crushed the mighty Monoblock.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on May 13, 2009, 06:27:47 pm
Stop making lists, start revising Will  :spank:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on May 13, 2009, 08:00:50 pm
R Man needed an understudy though I suppose ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 13, 2009, 09:06:54 pm
Paul Smitton completed a couple of good days with two 8b+'s. Traverse of the gods at Longridge, and All out at Kilnsey.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on May 14, 2009, 12:45:27 pm
Ain't my place to add names to your list Will, but Probes has come 2nd to Parry and knocked Hockstack into 3rd in competitions of the past.

Go figure  :P

ah those were fun days..



Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saltbeef on May 17, 2009, 11:02:07 pm
Bingley bald terrace ghost took advantage of sticky damp today to ascend sooopaman. (effort!) get down to citybloc and get 8b strong!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on May 18, 2009, 06:49:27 am
at least you passed your spelling test to be a doctor, I just hope you handwriting is illegible
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nicci on May 18, 2009, 01:14:55 pm
Stop making lists, start revising Will  :spank:

Stop making farms and start revising Andi  :furious:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on May 18, 2009, 01:38:57 pm
Bingley bald terrace ghost took advantage of sticky damp today to ascend sooopaman. (effort!) get down to citybloc and get 8b strong!

since when has superman been 8b by the way?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: stom on May 18, 2009, 10:25:09 pm
Bingley bald terrace ghost took advantage of sticky damp today to ascend sooopaman. (effort!) get down to citybloc and get 8b strong!

since when has superman been 8b by the way?

Its quoted quoted as 8b in the credits of one of your original films ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saltbeef on May 18, 2009, 10:35:48 pm
at least you passed your spelling test to be a doctor, I just hope you handwriting is illegible

completely illegible
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on May 18, 2009, 11:16:33 pm
Both methods are 8a+. Big up the bingly massif, shaggy is machine strong!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: priscilla wimbush on May 19, 2009, 11:12:01 am
since when has superman been 8b by the way?

Appropriately the latest 'Climber' mag gives it 8b, in the well written Ed Douglas "think of a number" article.
I can only guess you weren't at the 'Great British grade debate' Ben.  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on May 21, 2009, 01:26:59 pm
Mina did rock attrocity yesterday! Good effort considering the amount of testosterone that was present!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 21, 2009, 01:28:50 pm
I thought Dobbin was there?

Good effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on May 21, 2009, 01:35:04 pm
Mina did rock attrocity yesterday! Good effort considering the amount of testosterone that was present!

2nd female ascent?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on May 21, 2009, 03:24:06 pm
I thought Dobbin was there?

Good effort!

Sorry oestrogen!

Mina did rock attrocity yesterday! Good effort considering the amount of testosterone that was present!

2nd female ascent?

Think so!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on May 22, 2009, 11:15:43 am
I have a video! I tried to dub out the furious 'banter' in the background and disappointingly succeeded too well. The intention was to fade the encouragement back in at the end but I couldnt work out how to do it and gave up. keith and adam lincoln are safe for now.

Anyway, in just a few minutes I shall have something to show you. And it wont be my homogenous mass.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 22, 2009, 11:45:13 am
keith and adam lincoln are safe for now.

I am not sure Keith will be that pleased to be named alongside me in the film making stakes!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on May 22, 2009, 11:46:25 am
"http://vimeo.com/4780425"
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: philo on May 22, 2009, 03:47:05 pm
cruised it
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 22, 2009, 04:04:39 pm
I am not sure Keith will be that pleased to be named alongside me in the film making stakes!

He could always learn something from your musical taste, A.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 23, 2009, 10:20:37 pm
Dave Nodden did Keen Roof.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on May 23, 2009, 10:37:51 pm
Effort, looks nails.

(technical query, does this start as for Ben's and then yard off across the impossible-ness or does it have a different start?)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on May 24, 2009, 04:21:09 am
think it starts on the LHS at the back of the cave but I could be wrong. Good effort on another repeat!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: n_man on May 24, 2009, 08:45:01 am
So Super Keen Roof would start up Bens Roof?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on May 24, 2009, 10:23:54 am
Starts on the juggy pockets by Ben's roof kneebar, do a search to be entertained by a discussion as to where it should start! 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on May 24, 2009, 10:55:40 am
Thanks gents, quick well informed answers as usual.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on May 24, 2009, 10:59:33 am
Nice Nodder, i bet tis a funky sequence you employ!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on May 24, 2009, 12:42:28 pm
(technical query, does this start as for Ben's and then yard off across the impossible-ness or does it have a different start?)
Original sequence went like this (I missed the first move, but it's a sitstart from good holds):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mFHAXYze_A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mFHAXYze_A)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 24, 2009, 07:25:04 pm
Master Pearson repeated Pot Of Gold today at Longridge. (V11) Again preferring the mono finger lock. 4th ascent.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on May 29, 2009, 10:51:42 am
16 year old Shauna Coxsey made light work of a string of problems in the high Font 7s, most notably Alta at Isatis.  Although there is some discussion about the grade of Alta (it is written at Font 7C+ in one guide and Font 7B+ in another), it is still a powerful proposition and Shauna dispatched it in just a few tries.

Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.

From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on May 29, 2009, 11:00:11 am
classic ukc, can't even spell Rubis Sur L'Ongle right!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatneck on May 29, 2009, 11:51:18 am
It's about time Shauna started crushing properly i.e outdoors. I've enjoyed watching her progress over the last few years and am sure she'll climb much much harder soon. Good work!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on May 29, 2009, 12:54:23 pm
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.

From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!

I agree, but I wish people would stop climbing Carnage assis, its dog turd and its like taking easy pickings.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 29, 2009, 01:16:20 pm
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.

From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!

I agree, but I wish people would stop climbing Carnage assis, its dog turd and its like taking easy pickings.

My excuse was that it was pretty much the only dry rock we could find!  :-[
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on May 29, 2009, 02:48:23 pm
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.

From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!

I agree, but I wish people would stop climbing Carnage assis, its dog turd and its like taking easy pickings.

Agreed but you can see the temptation if you can cruise carnage!! I thought alta was the really good thing here, the main move is burly!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on May 29, 2009, 04:04:35 pm
no I can't... I'd move over to Berezina, or go for a walk for 10 minutes and get stuck into Noir Desir, or Tristesse, or Big Boss. Maybe fourmis?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on May 29, 2009, 04:20:04 pm
Alta defo very impressive.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on May 29, 2009, 04:49:45 pm
absolutely, when was it done? a few mates got back a while ago and said it had been roasting and the top of Alta felt impossible given conditions  :jaw:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on May 29, 2009, 05:41:12 pm
Just says easter! Everyone i know says it was boiling out there so extra waddage points!

no I can't... I'd move over to Berezina, or go for a walk for 10 minutes and get stuck into Noir Desir, or Tristesse, or Big Boss. Maybe fourmis?

I know but the temptation is still there, a quick 7c tick in the bag and then onto the next!! Dont be such a scrouge paul!  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on May 29, 2009, 07:30:48 pm
you said it all for me Dave, I rest my case.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: philo on June 05, 2009, 07:53:49 pm
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up  :dance1:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on June 05, 2009, 10:18:42 pm
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up  :dance1:

hell yeah!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on June 06, 2009, 07:45:59 pm
Mina did seans problem at crag x on thursday!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on June 06, 2009, 11:03:34 pm
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up  :dance1:

seeing as though I'm leaving the country for a while soon; may I ask has anyone repeated this yet straight up as per Dan?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: hairich on June 06, 2009, 11:15:35 pm
dom wragg did graviton 3rd go 7b way on his 14th.i say tick after lots of respected opinions.paul you and nat having a leaving
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benj_d on June 06, 2009, 11:54:14 pm
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up  :dance1:

seeing as though I'm leaving the country for a while soon; may I ask has anyone repeated this yet straight up as per Dan?

If you mean continuing up the arete rather than going right to then do the dyno bit then i believe the answer is no, no one has done it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on June 07, 2009, 02:33:32 pm
no, ark royal not yet been repeated on the arete.

rich, graviton is not 7b until the day all the bottom holds fall off. 7a is still a good effort for dom, it is no harder than this
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on June 07, 2009, 07:26:49 pm
...said the lord on the seventh day.

(But yes.)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on June 07, 2009, 08:24:55 pm
paul you and nat having a leaving

I guess if we find time we ought to. It'll be a sorry scene, Nat and I sat with Dense (no doubt wearing a party hat).  :boohoo:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c3po on June 09, 2009, 08:48:57 pm
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on June 09, 2009, 08:55:46 pm
Good stuff, he's been close for a while.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 09, 2009, 09:00:55 pm
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Was that the original Gaskins sequence?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nike Air on June 09, 2009, 09:52:12 pm
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Was that the original Gaskins sequence?

By the sounds of it he repeated it like Katz did, starting off the slot at the bottom of the ramp.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on June 10, 2009, 04:32:46 pm
this isn't the original else we would have been told that kaizen had been repeated. what is this problem "the art of cloning kaizen"? whilst obviously a good effort is this an independant problem? does it have another name? another grade?
on a serious note i did pinch 2 a good few years ago, this isn't strictly true since i used a few of the same holds and found out it was zippy's problem
with regards to pinch 2 moon obviously used the shit polished lf to make it a harder proposition since they were interested in doing eliminate problems on 12 ft sq bits of lime. as a for instance when i first heard of ryans repeat of pinch 2 i was like good effort that must have been hideous to get your lf there. then when he told me how he did it i said that's not pinch 2. this may sound like sour grapes or nonsense but what i'm saying makes absolutely no sense unless you care about little bits of shit rock and preserving the nature of the problem. not having a go at ryan there who as everyone knows is a far better climber than i could ever be, or at sam, it's just that established eliminate problems are exactly that.
anyone who has got pinch 2 ticked without the proper sequence can get to fuck
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on June 10, 2009, 04:47:30 pm
No surprise ere. Effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on June 10, 2009, 06:33:45 pm
Is that not where it started though?  Not sure but I thought so, Lakes bloc just says the roof direct, missing the crack on the right out.  The line on the topo looks like it comes from there?  :shrug:  Effort either way.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy B on June 10, 2009, 06:34:18 pm
with regards to pinch 2 ...

what did ryan do?

I agree with what you say about sticking rigidly to eliminates, although Andy in the guide gives a split grade "depending on who who ask, and exactly how they did it" implying that he thinks that there is more than one correct sequence? I'd be interested to know what [presumably slight] differences there are.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on June 10, 2009, 09:15:08 pm
for those who can be arsed

Orignal sequence
from RH-pinch, LH- slopey crimp
RF- low edge, LF- smear out left (the crucial bit)
then pull through to pinch(RH) fully weighting smear (this is the hard bit)
keeping LFon smear RF smear out right & slap to sloper (LH)

Newer sequence (although this is how Jason did the 3rd ascent circa 95)
from pinch & sloper just jump or lank direct to pinch then as above

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy B on June 10, 2009, 10:04:57 pm
Nice one. Cheers Andy. Were there any ascents using the left smear without pof?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on June 11, 2009, 10:09:02 am
Is that not where it started though?  Not sure but I thought so, Lakes bloc just says the roof direct, missing the crack on the right out.  The line on the topo looks like it comes from there?  :shrug:  Effort either way.

Samuel rang us last night n wanted me to clear this up a bit. In his words he did Kaizen the Gay way, about Fnt8a+. Nodder the original went off a block at the bottom that has now gone. So this alternate way is a damn site easier. Originally you had a foot lock of the block to get into the roof and then you were basically cutting loose hanging the crimps in the roof and slammin your foot on the ramp. The 'Gay Way' means you are essentially established with feet on ramp already.
Anyway there you go, Personally a fuckin hate the place, the problems are all shit, and... if anyone makes one more eliminate up they should be locked in a padded cell, and condemened for disillusionment. But then im just bitter.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on June 11, 2009, 10:24:01 am
Not sure if it has been repeated directly since the block went but when I went to Woodwell last summer I had a little play on Kaizen. It was still possible to do the start without feet on the ramp (direct start). Can't remember exacly how but there was somewhere to cam a foot and reach the two flat crimps in the roof. It was the crux section where you get that gaston crimp and move your feet over to the ramp that gave me trouble. It's certainly still possible to do it directly from what I can remember.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on June 11, 2009, 10:29:44 am
Yeah its will def still go direct, and prob the same grade, like you say tom the hard bits getting foot onto the ramp. Thus this way is a bit of a cop out. Although a worthy problem if you've ticked the crag and got naff all else to do.  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on June 11, 2009, 10:39:00 am
Oh yeah absolutely, not taking anything away from the lad. Still a fine effort. Just in my opinion the crux of Kaizen is moving your feet and pulling in. Just because that block has broken doesn't mean that it's not possible anymore (I should point out that I have only been to woodwell once and tried this for about 15 minutes so my memory is hazy).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on June 11, 2009, 10:52:49 am
yer exactly, its tough bit of climbing he's done. But we agreed n in his own words.. 'the gay way'. (no offence intended by way)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on June 11, 2009, 11:38:53 am
cool, thanks for the info. Kaizen the gay way, sounds like a self help book.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Teaboy on June 11, 2009, 04:53:41 pm
Were there any ascents using the left smear without pof?

Andy Brown repeated this 'back in the day' i.e. before 2000 and wouldn't have used pof. I can't say for definite which smear he would have used but he was usually pretty anal about footholds, history, eliminates etc.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: clm on June 11, 2009, 06:30:18 pm
When any of you see sam you will be amazed he can lift his burl off the ground at all.  a condom full of pork mince.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on June 11, 2009, 06:53:04 pm
probes don't think i was having a 'go' at sam, i wasn't at all. i like the sound of 'kaizen: the gay way'. rings a bell, so to speak

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on June 11, 2009, 06:57:41 pm
ps regarding p2 ryan just lanked it. who else have we heard about repeating it? jason myers and andy brown...

this is very slightly tongue in cheek :kiss2:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c3po on June 11, 2009, 08:50:36 pm
Sam said Kiezen was Ft8a+ but he's been working it forever and become misguided, it's Ft8b!  Boom shanka that man!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on June 12, 2009, 12:36:12 am
who else have we heard about repeating it?

Fred Rouhling did it about 5 or 6 years ago if memory serves. He didn't know if he used the right holds though  :lol:. hence the need for the new topo. And of course Malc did it in 10 minutes.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on June 12, 2009, 10:33:45 am
probes don't think i was having a 'go' at sam, i wasn't at all. i like the sound of 'kaizen: the gay way'. rings a bell, so to speak


No i know u werent, was agreein with you.  :thumbsup:

When any of you see sam you will be amazed he can lift his burl off the ground at all.  a condom full of pork mince.

 :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: n_man on June 14, 2009, 09:58:10 am
I always thought that Jason was the first to repeat Pinch 2. Who beat him to it?

Anyway I remember being real impressed when I saw him trying it. He was real close and ate half a pack of chocolate biscuits whilst trying it and kept saying 'I'm just not into all this feeling light stuff!'
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on June 14, 2009, 02:38:56 pm
'I'm just not into all this feeling light stuff!'
me neither
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 17, 2009, 10:24:55 am
Nalle Hukkataival's done Jade.

http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/2009/06/colorado.html (http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/2009/06/colorado.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on June 17, 2009, 12:46:28 pm
V15 in 10 goes?? I know it's fairly "simple" but even so  :o Big up the Fin.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mark_mcq on June 17, 2009, 09:25:08 pm
F**king unreal.  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on June 18, 2009, 10:53:20 pm
Are you gonna tell them Stallioni or shall I?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 18, 2009, 10:58:25 pm
Are you gonna tell them Stallioni or shall I?

Some Malham sendage?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on June 18, 2009, 11:04:38 pm
Something about some bloke from Pickering doing something somewhere in Yorkshire which was last done by some strong Scot about a decade ago?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 18, 2009, 11:08:24 pm
Something about some bloke from Pickering doing something somewhere in Yorkshire which was last done by some strong Scot about a decade ago?

This isn't UKC. Whats with all the cloak and dagger bollox?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on June 18, 2009, 11:15:43 pm
I dunno, he might not be happy if I Drew attention to it because he wants to publicise it himself. Haigh, he might even Cry or something. Freedom of speech and all though.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 18, 2009, 11:17:55 pm
I dunno, he might not be happy if I Drew attention to it because he wants to publicise it himself. Haigh, he might even Cry or something. Freedom of speech and all though.

That what i thought you meant. He was pretty close the other day. Not sure about last being done about a decade ago though.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on June 18, 2009, 11:23:11 pm
Yeah, he's pretty stoked I think, it's a brilliant effort indeed! 8b+ in the guide but most reckon 8c I think. Stallioni told me it was last done 10 years ago, and has only been repeated by malc, leach, tribault, sellars, moon, and one or two others!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on June 18, 2009, 11:26:30 pm
no ste mac?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drewski Rootbitch on June 18, 2009, 11:27:41 pm
Cheers guys.
Felt okay in the end, just needed to sort out my duff top sequence.
1 day top rope practice. 6th redpoint try.
Longest time spent on an 8b+ so far, not sure about the grade.
Feeling happy not to have to do it again.
YFYY.
Drew
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on June 18, 2009, 11:32:18 pm
no ste mac?

I'm not sure on that one, Jerry hasn't done it though I think.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on June 19, 2009, 08:31:30 am
no ste mac?
Steve hasn't done it. AFAIK he's been on it once or twice and is among those you reckon 8c.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on June 19, 2009, 08:51:23 am
Effort Drew. AFAIK the list is:
Leach
Dunne
Tribout
Moon
Sellars
Smith
Mitchell
Haigh

Any others?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on June 19, 2009, 08:59:58 am
From speaking to him, Ste reckons its harder than 8b+ for him but only because of one move that he's too short to do the way everyone else does it, but is steady if you can reach off the footholds. Good effort Drew.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on June 19, 2009, 09:27:36 am
Nice one Drew!
Don't really know what it is but that is an impressive list of names you've joined there. Bloody ignorant boulderers! Must be hard. Your bro was very please for you last night.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2009, 09:30:58 am
Effort Drew. AFAIK the list is:
Leach
Dunne
Tribout
Moon
Sellars
Smith
Mitchell
Haigh

Any others?

What a fantastic list to have your name attached to. Great effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 19, 2009, 09:49:44 am
Really good effort Drew. Top stuff.

I want to say something about one of those ascents but having written and deleted about ten different ways of saying it, I'll leave it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on June 19, 2009, 09:54:26 am
Great Effort Drew!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on June 19, 2009, 10:00:12 am
but is steady if you can reach off the footholds. Good effort Drew.

Lest this is misinterpreted, I mean that the move Ste was on about was steady if taller, not the whole route, which is clearly a hard 8b+ (or 8c anywhere else on the planet). Has it really had so few ascents? An illustrious list to join indeed. And on that subject wasn't/isn't Nick good? As he's not a full bore sport climber anymore, you forget just how many hard routes he crushed all those years ago.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 19, 2009, 10:05:01 am
 :agree:

One of the best climbers I have ever seen without a shadow.

Is it common knowledge that Nick very nearly flashed La Rose in about '92? He didn't make a fuss about it of course but it would have been the hardest flash in the world at the time. He just cocked the wave move up going for the wrong hold IIRC and then pissed it next go.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on June 19, 2009, 10:10:09 am
but is steady if you can reach off the footholds. Good effort Drew.

And on that subject wasn't/isn't Nick good? As he's not a full bore sport climber anymore, you forget just how many hard routes he crushed all those years ago.

I saw him destroy Cry Freedom in minutes. I had the fantastic vantage point of the New Dawn belay. Nick literally ran up it, he made it look like a proper path  :jaw:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on June 19, 2009, 04:31:29 pm
:agree:

One of the best climbers I have ever seen without a shadow.


Can't say i've seen ANY climbers without a shadow!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: richdraws on June 19, 2009, 04:48:04 pm
Scott didn't have one at 4am when he crushed Stanage.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on June 19, 2009, 06:03:47 pm

Can't say i've seen ANY climbers without a shadow!

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/Grendel.Mic/Rs1Odc1J52I/AAAAAAAAHKE/u5Ois9vzacw/Antoine%20Le%20Menestrel%20-%20La%20Rosa%20y%20El%20Vampiro%2C%208b%20-%20Boux.jpg?imgmax=720)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on June 19, 2009, 07:31:40 pm
I was going to suggest a Mel Gibson style "Freedom" scream upon completion, but I think Drew had used up all his volume on previous attempts, by trying to combine the ascent with the Guinness record for loudest ever expletive. Indeed,after watching him peel off the top, the passing tourist could have been forgiven for thinking the route was called "Cry Fuck!!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38VymOQyDNU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38VymOQyDNU)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 19, 2009, 10:17:08 pm
Indeed,after watching him peel off the top, the passing tourist could have been forgiven for thinking the route was called "Cry Fuck!!"

He is the only person i have ever seen at Malham say sorry to people in beck for swearing when falling off. True gent!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on June 20, 2009, 10:30:16 am
Great, well done! the fact mcclure hasn't done it yet speaks volumes morpho or not!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on June 20, 2009, 01:50:55 pm
...wasn't/isn't Nick good?

Yes. Blummin captain talent himself - we went to buoux last year and whilst I know he has been many times before and knows it well an so on, it was quite dismaying the speed and precision with which he climbs.

Anyway, well done Drew! which is actually what we are on about.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on June 20, 2009, 10:59:01 pm
Something about some bloke from Pickering doing something somewhere in Yorkshire which was last done by some strong Scot about a decade ago?

This isn't UKC. Whats with all the cloak and dagger bollox?

Pot, KETTLE!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: hairich on June 21, 2009, 07:12:51 pm
dom wragg repeated kudos today at rubicon.bloody good effort when you consider we were there with nacho who cant do it.

oh ben moon repeated it too but i think he may have done it before
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on June 21, 2009, 07:22:49 pm
nice once again.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on June 21, 2009, 09:20:13 pm
dom wragg repeated kudos today at rubicon

i don'tget it, everyone's done kudos. do you mean something else?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on June 21, 2009, 09:32:26 pm
he's not very old dave
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on June 21, 2009, 11:32:12 pm
And Kudos (easy) is really hard
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 01, 2009, 09:19:50 pm
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on July 02, 2009, 07:38:22 am
Has 2nd female ascent of rockatrocity not been mentioned yet. Young lass (Shawna?), first visit to the cave (I think), spent about 15 minutes sorting out the moves, fell off the final go-again move to the slot on her first go, then pissed it next go. No whooping, no fuss - all very cool-ly done.

Was warm as well.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on July 02, 2009, 08:10:40 am
It's Shauna Coxsey. Expect big things of this lass in the future, watch this space.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on July 02, 2009, 08:12:30 am
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.

Effort. Well done Naomi. Proper finish (i.e. clipping the belay from the jug) or jump finish?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 02, 2009, 08:54:38 am
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.

Effort. Well done Naomi. Proper finish (i.e. clipping the belay from the jug) or jump finish?

She did the harder version with the jump finish. The same as on the first ascent.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on July 02, 2009, 09:38:38 am
Has 2nd female ascent of rockatrocity not been mentioned yet. Young lass (Shawna?), first visit to the cave (I think), spent about 15 minutes sorting out the moves, fell off the final go-again move to the slot on her first go, then pissed it next go. No whooping, no fuss - all very cool-ly done.

Was warm as well.

Was 3rd ascent after that lady who did it a few years ago and mina. Effort to Shauna!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on July 02, 2009, 09:52:55 am
Not seen mentioned anywhere, but an Aussie lass did Jerry's Roof in the Pass (wot I heard). 2nd female ascent? Don't know her name but apparently she's done Serpentine and we watched her stroll up Bloody Sunday in the Leap "learning to trad climb".
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 02, 2009, 10:09:56 am
Learning my arse, went to Cratcliffe with her a few weeks ago and she strolled up everything there too. Andrea, dunno surname.

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/AL_FFE-1.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on July 02, 2009, 10:11:45 am
Nice one Shauna, that is mightily impressive, Millso will be amused!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2009, 10:18:09 am
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.

Good Skills! Well done.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Somebody's Fool on July 02, 2009, 10:20:52 am
Andrea Hah is her name.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on July 02, 2009, 10:22:35 am
Nice one Shauna, that is mightily impressive, Millso will be amused!  :thumbsup:

'Bout time she got on something hard though  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on July 02, 2009, 10:29:18 am
Good work to all recent significant repeaters.  :bow:

Learning my arse, went to Cratcliffe with her a few weeks ago and she strolled up everything there too. Andrea, dunno surname.

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/AL_FFE-1.jpg)

Why hasn't this been posted to DFBWGC III (http://)  :shrug: :spank:  Sorted now, but if you've any more pics lurking in the vaults get 'em up JB.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: averysmallman on July 02, 2009, 01:36:09 pm
Ola,

Malc Smith repeated Mr Tickle 8a the other day at Dumbarton rock. Apparently he reckons that the grade is about right.

This info is all from Will who put up the problem very recently but he can't post cause he's away getting smashed in Wales for a week. He's pretty chuffed that malc repeated his problem and wanted the world to know asap.

There you go Will....the world now knows.

J
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on July 02, 2009, 06:50:07 pm
Nice one Shauna, that is mightily impressive, Millso will be amused!  :thumbsup:

The girl's a mutant!

I wish I could agree that RA was a 'hard' problem Andy, but it really isn't. It just has an ending move that hates you. In context of Shauna's age etc, it is of course hard and I don't mean in any way to belittle what is a boomtown effort. She's certainly racking up a beer tab with all these sends if she's to be duly rewarded!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on July 02, 2009, 08:39:09 pm
RA is a hard problem. The last move of RA is hard because the rest of the problem makes you fucked by the time you get there! Doing RA in a session is super imprrssive IMO, I bet other people who have done this will have been climbing in the 8's.  Inspiring stuff!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on July 02, 2009, 09:28:51 pm
After Tuesday's shenanigans I have convinced myself that Parisella's Original is a lot harder than RA... as I failed on it yet could wink and french blow to Millso before casually matching on the latter  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: BenF on July 03, 2009, 12:13:07 pm
The girl's a mutant!

Shauna is truly brilliant, a proper all round climber (in terms of her techniques and skills on rock/plastic rather than her prowess on ice, alpine peaks, sport, trad etc).  She will go very far if she keeps up this progress and takes care not to get injured again.  Doing RA quickly like this is impressive but she's capable of much more.  It's great to see her getting out and climbing on rock rather than simply being the most incredible indoor climber. 

However if you are feeling humbled by her ability Tom, wait till I get her to Pex again.  Then we'll cut her back down to size.   ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on July 03, 2009, 12:23:59 pm
The point I was trying to get across was the style in which she did the problem. She turned up, worked out her own beta in the blink of an eye, and had it bagged up and was moving on to Lou Ferrino within half an hour. Very impressive indeed.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: BenF on July 03, 2009, 01:15:45 pm
The point I was trying to get across was the style in which she did the problem. She turned up, worked out her own beta in the blink of an eye, and had it bagged up and was moving on to Lou Ferrino within half an hour. Very impressive indeed.

Yeah, that came across - and I agree that her approach and style is excellent, very mature indeed.  I think we in Liverpool are all just so impressed by Shauna that we end up singing her praises at any opportunity. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on July 03, 2009, 06:09:22 pm
Stubbs, I'm just voicing personal frustration. Ignore me. Shauna will go as we all know very very far. For years she was always saying how she was desperate to get outside but had to stick to her training programme. Very disciplined and from a young age, it's great that she'll be a role model to other young female aspirants. Keep beasting beast!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nike Air on July 15, 2009, 09:53:34 pm
Gaz Parry repeated the 8c-True north at Kilnsey on Tuesday!!

Good holiday tick :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on July 16, 2009, 09:14:00 pm
Gaz Parry repeated the 8c-True north at Kilnsey on Tuesday!!

Good holiday tick :thumbsup:

Well done Gaz, I saw him breezing up the lower section at the end of last week - he didn't have much of a rest on the weekend either did he! Pats on the back for 8c Brits - or should that be ex-pats?  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 16, 2009, 09:15:44 pm
or should that be ex-pats?  ;)

He spends more time in the Uk than Spain!  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Gareth Parry on July 22, 2009, 01:10:01 am
Was at Kilnsey yesterday, pretty wet now and TN is soaked. Thank f**k i did it before it rained this year. Sooty got it on film so might have something on my blog soon. There is a vid of The Spider on there at the moment. Did a fun link yesterday there, 50 for 5 into the top of the Ashes, mega combo and a great pump. About 8a. Off back now thank god...the weather has got the better of me. got a new (blonde) drill to test and a cave to play in.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 22, 2009, 08:29:33 am
Did a fun link yesterday there, 50 for 5 into the top of the Ashes, mega combo and a great pump.

Dal did this a few weeks back. She also did Sticky Wicket into The ashes too.

(Nice one on TN by the way)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on July 22, 2009, 11:07:23 am
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 22, 2009, 11:19:41 am
Funny to think of why Wiegand called it that now that The Ashes is not such a synonym for Pom bashing. Fucking funny actually and a reminder that route names last forever.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on July 22, 2009, 12:11:50 pm
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.

Apparently Pete Robbins (no relation!) onsighted it last sat, making it look a doddle, i didnt see him do it but he appeared at the other end of the crag after looking mildly pleased.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on July 22, 2009, 12:27:54 pm
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.

It is, and Pete did flash it, after crushing Grooved Arete second go.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 22, 2009, 12:48:45 pm
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.

It is, and Pete did flash it, after crushing Grooved Arete second go.

The welsh team has a good day, caff and mule also doing GA.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Marky on July 22, 2009, 04:26:53 pm
Caff also had a good morning at Malham on Sunday when he ticked both Zoolook and Mid Ledge Spread before lunchtime!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on July 22, 2009, 07:17:11 pm
Apparently Pete Robbins (no relation!) onsighted it last sat, making it look a doddle,

Pete generally makes most things look a doddle, don't delude yourself that its easy
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on July 23, 2009, 10:47:43 am
Just to clarify, this is what Caff and Pete (Robins) did:

Friday, Malham: The Groove (Caff), Overnite Sensation (Pete)
Sat, Kilnsey: Grooved Arete (Caff and Pete), Ashes (Pete-os), Biological Need (Pete-os), Rubble (Caff-os, Pete-flash)
Sun, Malham: Zoolook (Caff), Mid Ledge Spread (Pete)

Not a bad weekend, eh?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on July 23, 2009, 11:12:47 am
Apparently Pete Robbins (no relation!) onsighted it last sat, making it look a doddle,

Pete generally makes most things look a doddle, don't delude yourself that its easy

to look is not to be.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on August 01, 2009, 09:49:22 am
Hello
I once belayed a chap on True NOrth
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on August 02, 2009, 10:46:15 pm
Mina did atomic playboy at buthiers today!!


Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saltbeef on August 02, 2009, 11:52:06 pm
yay! was raining this morn but temperatures were a bit more sane! good effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 03, 2009, 09:05:33 am
http://bleau.info/y/697.html (http://bleau.info/y/697.html)

Wow. 8a+ in font, you can retire off the back of that.

First british ascent? Any other british females done an 8 at all in the forest?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on August 03, 2009, 09:20:18 am
That's very seriously impressive and I'm really not trying to dminish the effort I'm just wondering whether the nonsense about traverse grades being 'soft' in Font is now historical anomoly.

I'm sure I remember being told 'if you can do a 7a up problem you can do an 8a traverse'.  Personally I think that's load of rubbish and just a crap effort at a sandbagging, thoughts random and rambling or otherwise?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on August 03, 2009, 09:27:57 am
On her 8a card it is down as Atomic Playboy Raccourci which gets 7c+. I  don't know which she did, either is very impressive. I get the impression that Raccourci is the more logical start though I've never seen the problem in the flesh, essentially I know nothing but whatever she's done nice effort.

Sloper from what I recall in Font traverses are graded two grades above up problems. I.e. a 7c traverse would roughly correlate with a 7b up problem. In my experience this is quite an inconsistent rule, I dunno why they do it like this, seems a bit silly to me. I prefer the Peak bouldering guide approach where traverse and up grades are equivalent.

Anyway bon effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ferret on August 03, 2009, 10:19:10 am
Quote
On her 8a card it is down as Atomic Playboy Raccourci which gets 7c+.

yeah this gets 7c+ on the website, i was never sure if this was a trav grade or a bloc grade, wud get 7c+ in the peak imo.
the 8a+ version is ridiculous startin on the top of the boulder (cliffband) and climbing down and across through not great quality rock. very long but the raccourci bit is the meat and potatoes and the obvious start.
best trav in font?

good effort
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: reeve on August 03, 2009, 03:08:20 pm
I hope this isn't too much of a maverick report for a bouldering forum, but I'm sure some people will be interested. Tom Randall got the first repeat of Green Spit in Orco last week, touted as one of the worlds hardest cracks, at around F8b+.
Congrats Tom, some true crack-fanaticism! 

Photo of it: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=67451 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=67451)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on August 03, 2009, 03:13:30 pm
yep mina did raccouri, which is the only place to start. the rest is nonsense. fantastic problem

thats not the first repeat reeve but don't let your floppy hair and headband get in the way of a good story
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on August 03, 2009, 03:26:29 pm
I hope this isn't too much of a maverick report for a bouldering forum, but I'm sure some people will be interested. Tom Randall got the first repeat of Green Spit in Orco last week, touted as one of the worlds hardest cracks, at around F8b+.

Very much interested!  It's been a goal for some time from what I understand, he must be delighted.

He will be fourth (?) ascentionist after Didier Berthod, Nicolas Favresse and Sonnie Trotter which puts Tom in a pretty select group.

(http://www.rockandice.com/images/news/05132008150113nicolas.jpg)

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on August 03, 2009, 03:39:18 pm
Good work Tommy  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on August 03, 2009, 03:53:07 pm

He will be fourth (?) ascentionist after Didier Berthod, Nicolas Favresse and Sonnie Trotter which puts Tom in a pretty select (and godly) group.

Great effort Tom, you crack loving freak you. Need to tick the local list now.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10869.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10869.0.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: butters on August 03, 2009, 03:56:22 pm
A fine effort by Tom there - it has had at least one repeat that I know of but still a fine bloody effort regardless.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on August 03, 2009, 07:05:13 pm
Nice one Tommy, well deserved fo sho.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saltbeef on August 03, 2009, 10:04:55 pm
...

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on August 03, 2009, 11:11:34 pm
Cheers dudes. I think Reeve got a bit carried away with ascents as it's the 3rd ascent. Only The Sheep at Burbage to tick now and I can retire  :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 04, 2009, 08:42:04 am
Ondra's flashed two confirmed 8Bs in Rocklands. In fifteen minutes.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2009, 10:05:15 am
At what point do we have to recalibrate amazement levels for Ondra achievements? For anyone else this would be amazing.

(not that I am negating the efforts, which is pretty astounding, but you know what I mean).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on August 04, 2009, 10:06:09 am
Ondra's flashed two confirmed 8Bs in Rocklands. In fifteen minutes.

Fuck! When is anything actually going to challenge him?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on August 04, 2009, 10:09:30 am
When he gets himself on the train to Carnforth.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 04, 2009, 10:22:35 am
Fuck! When is anything actually going to challenge him?

Well he did fail on Amandla apparently.

Quote
   Yes! Being angry after failure in Amandla, I flashed this one! could not have been more lucky, huge fight! thanks to Marijus for beta!

It's not clear how long he actually spent trying it though.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on August 04, 2009, 11:45:43 am
The Sheep at Burbage South is utter shit tho.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on August 04, 2009, 06:46:52 pm
Quote
Fuck! When is anything actually going to challenge him?



When he tries to buy booze...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on August 04, 2009, 09:37:59 pm
Good to see you thinking outside the rhombus there Nodder and getting life's priorities right
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on August 12, 2009, 10:37:33 am
Cheers dudes. I think Reeve got a bit carried away with ascents as it's the 3rd ascent. Only The Sheep at Burbage to tick now and I can retire  :)
You ever tried the crack project right of Ramshaw Crack? Looks like THE obvious challenge for a crack fiend to me. The guide suggests  french 8c but it looks a fair bit easier than that to me.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on August 12, 2009, 01:16:22 pm
I just wrote the 8c bit in the guide cos I was there one day with Sean Miles and he was tring it and that's what he said. He also said the problem would be placing gear. He said it would be easier with some pre-placed pre-clipped runners but it was around the time he had been involved in some ethical ramblimgs about Rodney Mullan so he didn't feel he wanted to get involved in any ethical grey areas
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on August 12, 2009, 01:59:14 pm
 Perhaps it is that hard after all then. The gear situation didn't look too bad to me though. Cos of the rise in the ledge you can place high gear before pulling on and would only need to place one more bit on route (whilst stood on the only half decent footholds), from which you might be able to reverse or jump (!) the couple of moves back to the ledge and hence leave in place. Such an amazing line but I've hardly heard of anyone trying it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on August 12, 2009, 02:01:43 pm
Sounds amazing/awful. Any pics around?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on August 17, 2009, 07:55:51 pm
Mina did the sissy today!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on August 17, 2009, 11:08:20 pm
Cheers dudes. I think Reeve got a bit carried away with ascents as it's the 3rd ascent. Only The Sheep at Burbage to tick now and I can retire  :)
You ever tried the crack project right of Ramshaw Crack? Looks like THE obvious challenge for a crack fiend to me. The guide suggests  french 8c but it looks a fair bit easier than that to me.

Bonjoy - yeah I have tried it briefly earlier this year. It is indeed pretty flippin' hard! Not quite as good line as I thought and perhaps the climbing is not quite as satisfying, not to mention excrutiatingly painful. It's on the list for this winter...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on August 18, 2009, 08:10:49 am
How so, is Ramshaw Crack within reach? Does look like some pretty knarly finger jams.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on August 18, 2009, 02:20:46 pm
How so, is Ramshaw Crack within reach? Does look like some pretty knarly finger jams.

Yeah ramshaw crack is within reach and usable at the start. It would seem logical to make 2 moves up this and lean into the thin finger crack - still brick hard. If you were to do anything else it would just end up being an eliminate. Essentially a very hard boulder problem on a rope!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2009, 02:22:29 pm
Essentially a very hard boulder problem on a rope!

You say that like it's a bad thing. :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on August 21, 2009, 07:42:58 am
can a crack come under the heading of a boulder problem, even if its on a boulder? the climbing is simply too hard, no matter how easy its supposed to be
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on August 21, 2009, 08:58:05 am
can a crack come under the heading of a boulder problem, even if its on a boulder? the climbing is simply too hard, no matter how easy its supposed to be

Sure it can, no need for ropes here...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_BWaIWB9hs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_BWaIWB9hs)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 25, 2009, 05:33:06 pm
Smitton has done another 8c+. Bah Bah Black sheep at Ceuse.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on August 25, 2009, 06:13:25 pm
Awesome.  He should get himself down to Rivel........
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on August 25, 2009, 09:03:14 pm
Pete Robins climbed Liquid Ambar today.  Awesome effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on August 25, 2009, 09:24:17 pm
fucking wad. now that's a significant repeat. well done pete!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on August 25, 2009, 09:39:08 pm
Pete Robins climbed Liquid Ambar today.  Awesome effort.

 :bow: Big Tick!! Great effort after what sounds like a period of determined dedication! Good Work Pete!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Falling Down on August 25, 2009, 09:45:19 pm
Waddage due  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on August 25, 2009, 09:55:19 pm
I saw it from the road, wish i'd been down at the beach to see it. Proper war of attrition! Mega
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2009, 09:56:13 pm
Awesome.  He should get himself down to Rivel........

lol. Big ticks both, top effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on August 25, 2009, 10:35:35 pm
Well done Pete!  :bow:

I'm sure some more robust reporting will come out in due course, but I met Toru in the Millstone Inn this evening so he's not left the UK just yet!!!

He's been staying at the North Lees campsite and Zaf (who I've got to know recently) is also staying there and has been out with him over the past week.

Apparently he racked up a "few" more E points today with....

Parthian Shot (w/direct start), placing gear on lead (!!! is this the first such ascent in this style?  Not sure if those Oz boys did similar in the dusk a year or so back?) and Meshuga between showers.

They were head-pointed, but not too many practices from what I understood.

Showed us a short vid of him flashing Brad Pit too (not sure if that was today or somewhen else though), but exceptionally smooth climbing.

Friendly and very humble guy, heading home tomorrow, and get this, apparently his brothers better than him!!


Forgot to ask where he was bouldering when he lost his mat though, sorry Alan.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: butters on August 25, 2009, 11:51:14 pm

Showed us a short vid of him flashing Brad Pit too (not sure if that was today or somewhen else though), but exceptionally smooth climbing.


This was done a few days ago I think - pretty sure that I read that on the other channel anyway.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: 220bpm on August 26, 2009, 12:14:34 pm
Parthian Shot (w/direct start), placing gear on lead (!!! is this the first such ascent in this style?  Not sure if those Oz boys did similar in the dusk a year or so back?) and Meshuga between showers.

Pretty damn special by any standards, never mind a 15yr old.

'Kin good stuff  :bounce:

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on August 26, 2009, 12:17:45 pm
especially bear in mind the grit season hasn't officially been called yet.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on August 26, 2009, 12:20:09 pm
especially bear in mind the grit season hasn't officially been called yet.

Surely this recent show of form negates the need to ever call grit season again  :shrug:

Think he's 16, but its semantics, what an amazing set of routes to have ticked, irrespective of age.  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on August 26, 2009, 12:25:22 pm
it really is some antics.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2009, 12:26:48 pm
especially bear in mind the grit season hasn't officially been called yet.

Wich makes me wonder, is JB still in hibernation, or has he flown south.

Recent pic of JB emerging

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Q706EN1AL._SS500_.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on August 26, 2009, 02:08:53 pm
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on August 26, 2009, 02:09:28 pm
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.

No fucking idea, I've not even done Byne's Crack yet  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on August 26, 2009, 02:14:37 pm
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.

Its quite long for a grit route and so fingers can get too cold on the lead in winter with the aspect of the crag. Thats what i've been told anyway. Probably best in spring /autumn
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on August 26, 2009, 02:41:12 pm
you just wanted to go home grimer
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on August 26, 2009, 02:54:04 pm
(http://www.beady.com/roundtheworld/images/K%20photos/e_shipwreck.jpg)

(http://www.chocablog.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/09/flake%20two%20break.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on August 26, 2009, 02:59:14 pm
the parthian thing is impressive, but i think i'm still more inspired by pete and LA. hard work paying off.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on August 26, 2009, 03:05:16 pm
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.

Seb told me that when he first tried Parthian, he did so in the winter, but his fingers got cold. I geared everything (in terms of training and prep) around doing it in early October when it wouldn't be too warm, nor too cold. That meant TRing it in September when it was still warm and getting abuse on this forum from know-alls about "some tw*t trying Parthian Shot when it was clearly too warm etc". No names no pack drill eh ;)  Sellers did it on a June evening too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on August 26, 2009, 03:08:13 pm
the parthian thing is impressive, but i think i'm still more inspired by pete and LA. hard work paying off.

Same here TBH. Especially the change in physique - lean n mean!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 26, 2009, 03:19:18 pm
Mightily impressive but it still awaits a repeat wearing lime green shorts. Doylo, you know your true destiny........
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on August 26, 2009, 03:21:17 pm
i expect nothing less than a 'nob-out' ascent from doyle.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on August 26, 2009, 03:23:03 pm
That meant TRing it in September when it was still warm and getting abuse on this forum from know-alls about "some tw*t trying Parthian Shot when it was clearly too warm etc".

thats hilarious. you must have a pretty low "abuse" (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9942.msg165356.html#msg165356) tollerance threshold though tom you fucking lanky cunt.

 ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on August 26, 2009, 03:24:18 pm
By the time i'm in good enough shape to get up it my nob will be so small and shrivelled up theres so way i'd get it out!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on August 26, 2009, 03:28:51 pm
Doyle in LA tick shocker!! (http://cdn-1.muchosucko.com/production/asset/thumb/059/819//microdick.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on August 26, 2009, 03:30:45 pm
Doyle in LA tick shocker!! (http://cdn-1.muchosucko.com/production/asset/thumb/059/819//microdick.jpg)

Hang on, thats what it looks like now......
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on August 26, 2009, 04:27:05 pm


thats hilarious. you must have a pretty low "abuse" (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9942.msg165356.html#msg165356) tollerance threshold though tom you fucking lanky cunt.

 ;)

OK, maybe overstating it just a little there...  ;D but tis true that grit routes aint always best approached in the depths of winter. one man's far too hot is another's pucka cons.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on August 26, 2009, 05:03:56 pm
From Paxti Usobiaga's website:

We went to bed around 2 pm while still feeling a little bit dizzy. On Sunday, seeing how great the weather was, we decided to go rock climbing to Nassereith. There I met Adam, who was also there desintoxicating from the plastic. He had just sent Hades (9a), the route I wanted to try so I asked him for beta. He gave me a very precise description of all the moves and after trying the route once and putting the quickdraws I had a very good go and sent it. It was very nice to have there someone to tell me the moves because it is usually very time and energy consuming to figure out how to do some sequences in these hard routes (thanks Adam).

9a. 2 goes.  :jaw:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 27, 2009, 08:22:56 am
Jaysus.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on August 27, 2009, 09:27:04 am
Climbing's hard when 8c+ is approaching a rest?

Personally I don't think those lads are even trying, come on boys pull your finger out and get on something hard.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on August 28, 2009, 09:34:44 am
well done throbber, now can you start being lazy eating cake and make do with your Superior technique again, you are making me feel weak. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 28, 2009, 12:36:55 pm
Simpson still has it. (Did he ever lose it?)
Penumbral Solar Eclipse, 8c in the Jura.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on August 28, 2009, 12:40:59 pm
people, there's one 'o' in lose, as in "I am about to lose my temper with you, you naughtly little boy"

there's two 'o's in loose, as in "My rear fanny feels loose since you rammed that dictionary up it"
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 28, 2009, 12:43:29 pm
people, there's one 'o' in lose, as in "I am about to lose my temper with you, you naughtly little boy"

Sorry, now corrected, hell of a morning!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on August 28, 2009, 12:46:41 pm
wasn't specifically aimed at you, you canny lad. just a general rant.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on August 28, 2009, 12:50:46 pm
Don't be naughtly with your spelling Adam.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on August 28, 2009, 02:02:28 pm
well spotted   ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on August 28, 2009, 02:05:50 pm
Simpson still has it. (Did he ever lose it?)
Penumbral Solar Eclipse, 8c in the Jura.

Not on 8c's no. Once a monster always a monster.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 28, 2009, 04:30:18 pm
What's he ever done in the Mont Blanc range though?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on August 28, 2009, 06:40:13 pm
What's he ever done in the Mont Blanc range though?
See what you did there
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Houdini on August 28, 2009, 06:45:10 pm
well done throbber, now can you start being lazy eating cake

Pete's always been a toast man, if I recall correctly.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: priscilla wimbush on August 31, 2009, 06:57:57 pm
Did that fairly little one repeat Mecca extension today?
Congratulations if so.
He might be ageing but sport climbing obviously comes au naturelle.
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on August 31, 2009, 07:42:43 pm
If 8a is to be believed (and we are talking about the same person) then it would seem he did. Go beast.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Turboman on August 31, 2009, 08:19:18 pm
Good Effort Stu!!!

Brandler-Hasse and Mecca Extension in 2 weeks?  Fecking hell!

On more important matters have you got my gri gri (red locking biner?)
Last saw it a few weeks ago near you and Jules under Body machine ( the time when I snapped a hold off).

Hope you've had your Big Mac.

Si
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on August 31, 2009, 08:37:20 pm
Been a good ten days for the 8c brits: Pete, Simpson, Smit and now Stu.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatdoc on August 31, 2009, 09:54:35 pm
this all sounds most good...

but WTF are we all talkin about??

who has done what, when and in how long??



christ.... i feel old.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on August 31, 2009, 10:04:35 pm
Stu Littlefair has done Mecca Extension (8c)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on September 01, 2009, 08:13:00 am
Effort Stu  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 02, 2009, 08:40:56 am
Cheers guys, nice to get it done. On to the next thing now, I guess.

On more important matters have you got my gri gri (red locking biner?)
Last saw it a few weeks ago near you and Jules under Body machine ( the time when I snapped a hold off).

aha! Yes we do have it. Will leave it at the front desk of the Foundry for you
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatneck on September 02, 2009, 08:55:11 pm
He probably won't thank me for this, but this ascent is very significant, particularly in local terms. BenF repeated the sit start to South-West Overhang on Pisa Wall at Pex last Friday. Aside from this being the probable third ascent (if you know any different, please get in contact!), Ben has put considerable time and effort into repeating all the hardest local problems, particularly at Pex and was obviously completely made up! I felt very privileged to have witnessed it.

Good effort dude!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on September 02, 2009, 09:03:16 pm
Nice one Ben  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 06, 2009, 07:37:18 pm
Another great day for Brits!

Stew Watson has done Mordor (8c+/9a)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on September 06, 2009, 08:48:03 pm
'bout time.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 07, 2009, 03:16:43 pm
George Ullrich has onsighted  The Bells, The Bells.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Will Hunt on September 07, 2009, 06:27:21 pm
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/jessculture/christ_on_a_bike.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 07, 2009, 06:34:57 pm
Another great day for Brits!

Stew Watson has done Mordor (8c+/9a)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_3-swGe4D2WY/SqP7ippsdBI/AAAAAAAAAN8/6yxmlr_VnmY/s1600/HE-Stew-1404.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Duma on September 07, 2009, 07:20:33 pm
Will that is genius.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 09, 2009, 06:34:18 pm
Another great day for Brits!

Stew Watson has done Mordor (8c+/9a)

And another 8c today, Morpheus.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on September 09, 2009, 09:02:21 pm
Boing-jouziver felloz

DOes any one have any shizzle on glitz glamboy line driving Moffot?
I heard his book is a bit tame.

Hears what i know - Raven TOr to Sheff in about 20minx.
Great grin fac tor and in a Peugot too.
Pasengullars, MIles, Chris and mysulf.

I think i mostly traversed that day.

My gripe with him is denial of schoolboy friendship with (my jolly wonderful friend) TIm Raper.
What really happened in those old Stoney dayz?
Dirt bags on Glitz?

THe Raper, head of the CLuelEss Sound System is currently in Espana.

VIVa.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on September 10, 2009, 12:17:09 am
Well Pat it looks like dem boyz are hard at play.
Down at the station today, I heard someone once saw his william at the highly exclusive upstairs Foundary lounge.
Who could that have been Mr Dawes?

Quickly moving on and upwards in this tale of bore ...

... A tit once told my grand old man that cheese is made in cheddar with holes in it, but holidays are rare around these parts.
Mostly these days i'm constructing yoghurt towers, delicately weaved together with the fronds of Shiva's hair.
His arse is llike a bucket of lard that roles melodious on tides of pure Devonian hard rocks.
Buckets are filled with air ...

... its all gone quiet over there!!!!

5-1 to the Enger-lland.
World Cup final rolle ole on!
Anyone for tickets?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on September 10, 2009, 02:06:33 pm
Although it makes no sense, your off-piste avalanche of cold white language has provided entertainment. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on September 11, 2009, 10:11:15 am
URGENT MESSAGE FOR MR J. SHARPE

DUE TO THE HILARIOUS GIGGLESOME RESPONSE TO KARMA YOU HAVE WON A TICKET FOR THE WIZARD RIDGE!

WELL DONE.

JUST POP INTO WONKA'S NEXT TO THE FOUNDARY AND PICK UP YOUR PRIZE.

PS MR ALI AND MR THOMPSON SAY HELLO TO YOUR MOM.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 11, 2009, 10:17:18 am
Why thank you.  :-*
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 14, 2009, 10:51:17 pm
Another link up at Woodwell from the strong man from Blackpool. V13, the Aarinator. Basically a direct on cloning technology. Taking in the middle of Kaizen.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on September 14, 2009, 10:58:13 pm
Is this the thing Sam was telling me about the other day?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 14, 2009, 11:01:12 pm
Is this the thing Sam was telling me about the other day?

 :shrug: I guess so... What did he have to say about it?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on September 14, 2009, 11:06:27 pm
Not a lot.  He was on about a new link he'd been trying, BOBC, drop down and then do AOSD, then across the Slaves to reverse Tom's.  Said he fell off the last (easy) bit.  Sounds 8b+  :o (although a sport grade is probably more sensible).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 16, 2009, 03:32:02 pm
Yuji still going strong. He has just repeated Cobra Crack in Squamish.
(http://stat.ameba.jp/user_images/20090916/21/stonerider/0d/63/j/o0685102410254928367.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2009, 03:39:39 pm
You on first name terms with him Adam? Or just can't spell his surname? :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 16, 2009, 03:43:56 pm
You on first name terms with him Adam? Or just can't spell his surname? :)

Can't spell his surname.  :P

Him and Moffatt are two ticks i am lacking.  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on September 16, 2009, 03:48:35 pm
Can't spell his surname.  :P

It's easy. Hit the H button, then drop a cat on your keyboard. I shall demonstrate:

Yuji Hdxpnhwy7xdx2g;;,rsama
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on September 16, 2009, 03:52:02 pm
hiroshima, hirohito, fujiyama, something like that?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 16, 2009, 03:55:29 pm
Must be something about climbing hard and having an unpronounceable surname.

Patxi Ussooobobuggiggaoooob  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on September 16, 2009, 04:14:59 pm
to be fair to adam there can't that many yuji's kicking around capable of repeating cobra crack
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 16, 2009, 04:18:55 pm
Hirayama isn't exactly "unpronounceable" though!  :lol:

Amazing effort from the all round nice bloke and total BEAST!  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2009, 04:44:19 pm
Must be something about climbing hard and having an unpronounceable surname.

Must be my excuse.

Reminds me of old Fast Show sketch "The Unpronounceables"

But as  Jasper Shvfouifhsoh says, it's some serious beasting.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on September 17, 2009, 06:50:50 pm
Adam Ondra's just done Der heilige Gral (9a) 2nd go, first put up by markus bock who i hope was there to witness the ascent otherwise ondra's reputation is gonna take a kicking.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 24, 2009, 10:01:21 am
Sean McColl has just repeated Dreamcatcher in Squamish. Confirming the 9a/5.14d grade Sharma gave it.

(http://seanmccoll.com/wp-content/gallery/travel/dreamcatcher_sean01.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 24, 2009, 10:06:41 am
That's a great effort. Been tried  by a lot of strong fuckers. What an amazing looking route.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 24, 2009, 10:08:12 am
That's a great effort. Been tried  by a lot of strong fuckers. What an amazing looking route.

Its what happens when you spend the summer in Europe  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on September 24, 2009, 10:10:50 am
Spend the summer comp climbing  ;)

Great effort.

Wonder if Koyamada is still out there and will nip in for an ascent now conditions have improved, and if P Rob will return for a send?

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 24, 2009, 10:16:03 am
Quote from: Adam Lincoln

Its what happens when you spend the summer in Europe  ;)

Quote from: Stubbs
Spend the summer comp climbing  ;)


Seems he agrees.

http://seanmccoll.com/?p=199 (http://seanmccoll.com/?p=199)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 24, 2009, 10:22:43 am
Spend the summer comp climbing  ;)

Great effort.

Wonder if Koyamada is still out there and will nip in for an ascent now conditions have improved, and if P Rob will return for a send?

And Pringle.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: jimbo on September 24, 2009, 10:43:40 am
Always thought that dreamcatcher looks like a very cool route to climb. Shame its about 18 grades above my ability.....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2009, 10:50:36 am
It's just an incredible piece of rock. Even that starting slab looks impossible close up.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 24, 2009, 06:25:45 pm
Another pic pf the catcher
(http://www.deadpointmagazine.com/images/uploads/summeror/sean2.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: yorkshiregripper on September 24, 2009, 07:39:13 pm
Think Jules deserves a mention for Raindogs, her second 8A, BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on September 27, 2009, 07:45:13 am
Jame McHaffie repeats Haston's Bam Bam (http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=225&ngroup=2)  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on September 27, 2009, 09:31:11 am
Yesterday ruth smitton did supercool and ted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: AndiT on September 27, 2009, 10:25:18 pm
Yesterday Ryan Pasquill did Ray's Roof, second go  :jaw:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 27, 2009, 10:29:15 pm
Yesterday Ryan Pasquill did Ray's Roof, second go  :jaw:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/)

Must have been all that jamming in the Jura that helped.  ::)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on September 28, 2009, 09:43:50 am
Jame McHaffie repeats Haston's Bam Bam (http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=225&ngroup=2)  :bow:

Caff thought it was alright apparently, theres a shock!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on September 28, 2009, 04:34:29 pm
Saw Caff do Bam, Bam on saturday - impressive stuff. Bottom section looked very worrying with some real ground fall potential. The rack was comical, so big - by the time Nick had got to the top he looked like he was wearing a huge metal ra-ra skirt!

Leigh told me that he pulled a sneaky one when he seconded Stevie by building a padded landing nest at the bottom and jettisoning half the rack at mid height!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 28, 2009, 04:47:03 pm
ted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!

He also crushed Zeke the freak today 2nd rp.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on September 28, 2009, 05:15:06 pm
ted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!

He also crushed Zeke the freak today 2nd rp.

Not the flash that you predicted then, skills Ted, Pill Box is waiting....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on September 28, 2009, 05:26:03 pm
Yesterday Ryan Pasquill did Ray's Roof, second go  :jaw:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/)

Absolutely brilliant effort!! Such a talent on everything it seems.

On a side note, you have you done it yet Andi??!! Cummon!! Also Pete ticked the Baker's Dozen the other day, so yet another one goes down...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 28, 2009, 05:33:01 pm
ted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!

He also crushed Zeke the freak today 2nd rp.

Not the flash that you predicted then, skills Ted, Pill Box is waiting....

I know. C'mon Ted  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on September 28, 2009, 05:36:20 pm
ted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!

He also crushed Zeke the freak today 2nd rp.

Not the flash that you predicted then, skills Ted, Pill Box is waiting....

I know. C'mon Ted  ;)
shit bastard
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saltbeef on September 28, 2009, 06:05:23 pm
fat bastard.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on September 28, 2009, 06:54:06 pm
Cheers guys. Great route, sorry to disappoint with the failed flash!  :lol: seriously that would be a bloody good effort from some future beast! yes I can't wait for the box season to commence, bring it on!!  ;D
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on September 28, 2009, 06:58:19 pm
nice one Ted you beast.
You going down broughton at all? May be down on tuesday evening.
Need to start climbing a bit more again
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on September 28, 2009, 07:01:13 pm
Ta Jim, I'm still in outdoor mode at the minute so as soon as the weather craps out I'll be down to the temple of power! Can't wait to get stuck in to the woody once we get some more small grips on there.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on September 28, 2009, 08:04:52 pm
Dan Warren completed the second ascent of Bulbhaul and the third ascent of the Real Keelhaul at the 'cliff in a session this evening, congratulations beast!   :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on September 28, 2009, 08:09:37 pm
(wad)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on September 28, 2009, 08:49:33 pm
 :agree:

Absolute monster. He's rich, he's strong and he's coming to a dance floor near you.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on September 29, 2009, 02:13:10 pm
Dan Warren completed the second ascent of Bulbhaul and the third ascent of the Real Keelhaul at the 'cliff in a session this evening, congratulations beast!   :bow:

Fuckin Effort. Well chuffed for him. All his hard work has paid off.  :beer2:

Great problems to repeat too  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on September 29, 2009, 02:53:07 pm
I can't wait for the box season to commence, bring it on!!  ;D

When is this exactly? And, good effort SuperTed!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on September 29, 2009, 02:54:59 pm
I can't wait for the box season to commence, bring it on!!  ;D

When is this exactly? And, good effort SuperTed!

Box season is all year really, Teds just been distracted with routes.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on September 29, 2009, 03:00:33 pm
Cheers Dobbin! Yes, I will soon see the light and head back to that bit of Raven Tor stuck onto the Orme! All I know is its not the box season when your pad gets blown into the sea!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on September 29, 2009, 03:09:27 pm
Cheers Dobbin! Yes, I will soon see the light and head back to that bit of Raven Tor stuck onto the Orme! All I know is its not the box season when your pad gets blown into the sea!

well if you will try and climb in gale force winds.....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on September 29, 2009, 03:17:31 pm
Yes that's true, I should have stayed in the cave on that occasion! I found the box really useful conditions wise over the winter. When the cave was completely gopping the box would often be fine, the wind is the killer though.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on September 29, 2009, 03:26:13 pm
Quote
When the cave was completely gopping the box would always be shit
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on September 29, 2009, 03:37:06 pm
Quote
When the cave was completely gopping the box would always be shit
One day you'll do Mr Whippy mate
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on September 29, 2009, 09:18:51 pm
Quote
When the cave was completely gopping the box would always be shit
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on September 29, 2009, 09:55:59 pm
Quote
When the cave was completely gopping the box would always be shit

Hmmmmm... insightful
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on September 29, 2009, 10:09:30 pm
true and true
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on September 30, 2009, 05:10:27 pm
When the cave was completely gopping the box would often be fine, the wind is the killer though.

I presume you are talking about a climbing venue and not another 'venue'  :-\  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Serpico on September 30, 2009, 08:44:29 pm
When the cave was completely gopping the box would often be fine, the wind is the killer though.

I presume you are talking about a climbing venue and not another 'venue'  :-\  :o

If I look to the East I can see a red glow on the horizon, I think it might be Ted blushing as he realises the enormity of that fantastic stream of innuendo.
It deserves a wad point on it's own. :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 01, 2009, 08:57:57 am
Absolute genius.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on October 03, 2009, 09:31:34 am
I hear that Awesome Mawson has done Cry Freedom :great: and Super Ted has done the Oak second go  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 04, 2009, 08:40:34 pm
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on October 05, 2009, 08:56:56 am
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.

Awesome.   :great: i thought i could hear over the weekend somewhere distantly a name being added to a list.

Tim
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: priscilla wimbush on October 05, 2009, 09:12:08 am
An aging has-been sport climber seems to have logged another 8c recently. 6th ascent? - After Mitchell, Malc Smith, Steve Mac, Gaz Parry and God apparently.  ;D
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on October 05, 2009, 09:40:34 am
Vickers did it in 2000
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: priscilla wimbush on October 05, 2009, 05:33:07 pm
Vickers did it in 2000
Did he do it in a deity?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on October 05, 2009, 08:07:11 pm
nice from tom.

priscilla, to what and whom do you refer?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on October 05, 2009, 08:13:32 pm
I believe he/she's trying to say Stu Littlefair did Unjustified.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on October 05, 2009, 08:21:02 pm
cheers

nice one stu, again
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on October 05, 2009, 08:22:42 pm
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.

Nice one!

:great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on October 05, 2009, 09:25:51 pm
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.

Congratulations Tom, but Adam - how can you get this confused with a repeat?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 05, 2009, 09:31:15 pm
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.

Congratulations Tom, but Adam - how can you get this confused with a repeat?

It is a repeat according to a Spanish wad named Ramon.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on October 05, 2009, 09:33:41 pm
And yet you put it in the significant repeats thread  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on October 06, 2009, 07:10:47 am
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.

Congratulations Tom, but Adam - how can you get this confused with a repeat?

It is a repeat according to a Spanish wad named Ramon.

So why'd you write it was a first ascent?  Are you trying to use the Chewbacca defence (http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1974564/chewbacca_defense/)?

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 06, 2009, 09:28:37 am
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.

Congratulations Tom, but Adam - how can you get this confused with a repeat?

It is a repeat according to a Spanish wad named Ramon.
So why'd you write it was a first ascent?  Are you trying to use the Chewbacca defence (http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1974564/chewbacca_defense/)?

I said it was a first ascent as that was what Tom had on his scorecard on 8a. It then turned out that it wasn't. Whats with the Spanish inquisition.  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on October 06, 2009, 09:35:27 am
Our main weapon is fear......

(http://www.sott.net/image/image/7281/inquisition_monty_python.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on October 06, 2009, 10:15:10 am
Neil Dyer just did his first 8c, The Hulk in rodellar.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 06, 2009, 10:39:42 am
More Ondra crushage........ (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2009/10/ondra-repeats-im-reich-des-shogun.html)

Quote
If he keeps this pace up, he'll have climbed every route and boulder ever thought of by man by 12 April next year.
Rumour has it, Adam can now cure blindness and the common cold.
More to come.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2009, 10:55:11 am
Neil Dyer just did his first 8c, The Hulk in rodellar.

Nicely done ding dong.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Teaboy on October 06, 2009, 11:01:52 am

Quote
More Ondra crushage........

This is great news, sooner or later he'll ave to come to the UK just to find routes he's nt done and at last we should get some repeats of all the 9a's in the UK
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 06, 2009, 02:10:47 pm
It'll be a weekend break then.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on October 06, 2009, 07:38:43 pm
Neil Dyer just did his first 8c, The Hulk in rodellar.

Just realised which one The Hulk is. Fucking effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: priscilla wimbush on October 07, 2009, 06:11:51 pm
Quote from: Adam Lincoln link=topic=10607.msg222312#msg222312
I said it was a first ascent as that was what Tom had on his scorecard on 8a. It then turned out that it wasn't. Whats with the Spanish inquisition.  :shrug:
The point is that you posted what you thought was a first ascent in the significant repeats thread, no Spanish inquisition, you know what they're like on ukb! (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11461.0.html)- though it was news, you might have got carried away with the numbers and missed out poor Stus back patting opportunity first. Comprende?
Anyhow let's move on - NIKS WALL HAS BEEN REPEATED BY A NON-LOCAL! SHAME ON SHEFFIELD!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on October 07, 2009, 06:21:18 pm
Finally!  :thumbsup:  who?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: priscilla wimbush on October 07, 2009, 07:13:21 pm
Finally!  :thumbsup:  who?

Some guy called Chaz Cooper from Oldham back in April apparently. You know him?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 07, 2009, 07:14:28 pm
Anyhow let's move on - NIKS WALL HAS BEEN REPEATED BY A NON-LOCAL! SHAME ON SHEFFIELD!
Surely the biggest news of the year, details??
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on October 07, 2009, 07:15:54 pm
Why are we only finding out now?  Shirley this is the news of the decade.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on October 07, 2009, 07:52:15 pm
Source? Witnesses, Photographs.

Just curious, after all we've never heard of things claimed turning out to have been a wee bit ficticious?

Note I'm not calling the chap a liar, glad that it's been done just suprised at how the news has come out.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 08, 2009, 08:09:31 am
T'would be interesting to hear what sequence was used and how hard it was thought, given the spankings I've seen it deal out to the great and the good! Anyone know said Chaz Cooper?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on October 08, 2009, 08:51:32 am
is he one half of Chaz & Dave by any chance?

(http://www.viscountentertainment.co.uk/Photos/Chas%20and%20Dave.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 08, 2009, 08:58:20 am
You should know, Dave!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on October 08, 2009, 09:02:59 am
I'm afraid I'm generally too busy potting the red ball and screwing black for the yellow, green, brown, blue, pink and black to notice the identity of my co-performer.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 08, 2009, 10:14:15 am
Didn't you recently split up anyway?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on October 08, 2009, 10:20:15 am
Presumably etc.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on October 08, 2009, 01:55:07 pm
Source? Witnesses, Photographs.

Just curious, after all we've never heard of things claimed turning out to have been a wee bit ficticious?

Note I'm not calling the chap a liar, glad that it's been done just suprised at how the news has come out.

I reported it in my bouldering column for Climber. I don't know Chaz personally, but he writes to me occasionally reporting various new lines in the quarries around the Oldham area. Given the style of the climbing (all the problems previously reported looked very fingery and old school) I thought it a credible claim, and it amused me no end that it took some unknown climber to repeat the supposedly unrepeatable.

Witnesses: not sure, he didn't say, and I didn't ask because I don't have his email or telephone number. (When I said that he writes in, I meant he writes letters, as in good old fashioned pen and paper.)

Photos: he said he didn't have any.

Did he do it: seems plausible to me, after all it's 8A, not 8C.

How will that go down in your kangaroo court?  ;)

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on October 08, 2009, 02:10:59 pm
New problems in quarries? South lancs side or peak side of Oldham? Either way, I'm intrigued. Has he done loads of new stuff, or could you could give us a quick run down?

I remember reading a comment on yorkshiregrit from one of the been-around-for-a-bit generation: he thought that while general ability on steep stuff had improved loads, vertical climbing hadn't really moved on much. Apart from some of Gaskin's problems, this seems to be true. There aren't many wall climbs above 8A. Is this because they are hard to find, or because people just aren't into vertical gnarl any more?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 08, 2009, 02:47:30 pm
It's due to lack of available resources if you ask me. The less steep something is, the greater the effect on difficulty any change in hold angle, size and spacing is. The gap between easy and impossible is relatively narrow compared to on steeper ground, so less rock features fall into it. It's much harder to find a decent unclimbed vertical 8a than a steep 8a despite the fact that vertical rock is much more common than steep rock. And it's even harder than that to find a slabby 8a despite slab angled rock being probably the commonest of angles.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 08, 2009, 02:52:25 pm
Quote
The gap between easy and impossible is relatively narrow compared to on steeper ground,

I wouldn't agree with that.

Quote
slab angled rock being probably the commonest of angles.

Or that.

Quote
because people just aren't into vertical gnarl any more

But I would agree with that. Look at all the early eighties problems still regarded as hard - Walk on by, Monoblock, Scoop de grace etc - all vertical grimness. Folk used to train on vertical walls, either stone or brick edges. Standards haven't moved forward on this because of a lack of interest, not a lack of projects.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on October 08, 2009, 03:00:40 pm
go on then, where are all these vertical projects that are actually climbable?

another factor is of course that to make vertical walls harder the holds get smaller or further apart. the further apart they are the more it rules out shorter people, hence less suitors. the smaller the holds get the less likely anyone is to want to pull on them, the more condition dependant it becomes, the less goes you can have in a session, the more it becomes about pain tollerance rather than fingerstrength. compared to climbing steeper problems where the holds favour longer sessions working them, in a wider range of conditions.

Plus in terms of bouldering, vertical walls end up all being short and biased towards very hard moves to stay within bouldering height, whereas the steeper something is the longer it can be before it gets out of hand, and hence has to be less cruxy, and hence more approachable/workable it is.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on October 08, 2009, 03:13:11 pm
I don't read the printed climbing press, it just seems odd that an unknown climber would repeat such a well known problem and then report it in that manner.

Like I said, I'm not calling the bloke a liar, just suprised by the manner of the report.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 08, 2009, 04:08:34 pm
Quote
The gap between easy and impossible is relatively narrow compared to on steeper ground,

I wouldn't agree with that.
Think about it for a minute. For example a climber has even spaced 30mm hand and footholds on a 45 degree wall and holds of a set size and of equivalent holdability on a vertical wall, for the sake of the example say these are 8mm holds at the same spacing. If you knock 7mm of the size of these holds the steep position will get a fair bit harder to hold, the vertical position will become impossible to hold. You get bigger holds on hard steep problems, therefore you’ve got more slack to play with to make steeper problems harder. That is indisputable. Where is the flaw in my logic?

Quote
Quote
slab angled rock being probably the commonest of angles.

Or that.
That's because you aren't really registering most of the easy angled rock. I'm talking about all available rock, not just the stuff that's worth climbing on.Take a look around the peak as a whole, or your average boulderfield, there is loads of slabby rock, most of it you'd barely notice as a climber as it's plastered in ledges and heather. Some you can't even see because it's so ledge covered that it's burried under grass.

Like Dave says, where are all these vert/slabby projects? I've got a document on my PC with all my proj ideas and there aren't many slabs/walls on it and it's not for lack of looking.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 08, 2009, 05:07:38 pm
I am (obviously) very interested in this bit of news.
I don't doubt the repeat, I have no reason to, and I'm SYKED that someone has finally got up this. I would however like more details, how tall is this guy? What sequence did he use? Any thoughts on the grade (there have been several 8a+ soundings)? Etc, etc, etc.
The guy sounds wonderfully eccentric.

Curious as to when it became highball, this new found popularity of the quarries must be causing significant ground erosion ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Somebody's Fool on October 08, 2009, 05:44:06 pm
Is it possible that Chaz Cooper is the pseudonym Dense adopts when he's living his suburban-father-of-three double life on the weekends?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on October 08, 2009, 05:59:05 pm
New problems in quarries? South lancs side or peak side of Oldham? Either way, I'm intrigued. Has he done loads of new stuff, or could you could give us a quick run down?

I've sent you the full details, but for everybody else the problems I've reported in the last few years are as follows:

Early 2007
Machete - a V9/7C traverse in Quarry 6 at Running Hill Pits

Mid 2007
Vengeance - a V10/7C+ wall in Huddersfield Road Quarry

2008
The Whack (V10/7c+) - the obvious thin undercut face problem in a quarry off the A640 Huddersfield road

2009
Surface to Air - a highball V8/7B in Den Lane Quarry

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on October 08, 2009, 06:36:23 pm
could you send me the details please.

I wonder if any of those problems are what we named 'city wall'?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on October 08, 2009, 07:18:08 pm
There's still a keen gnarly wall scouse contingent. In fact it's all we've got and all we live for.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on October 08, 2009, 07:52:25 pm
lanky bar-stewards the lot of ya
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on October 08, 2009, 09:00:20 pm
sounds like "whack" kes. fool, don't think i didn't see what you did
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 08, 2009, 09:07:48 pm
I know of Den Lane and Running Hill Pits but anybody got any more knowledge on these two:
Quote
Mid 2007
Vengeance - a V10/7C+ wall in Huddersfield Road Quarry

2008
The Whack (V10/7c+) - the obvious thin undercut face problem in a quarry off the A640 Huddersfield road
Are they the same venue?? Stallion this is your area isn't it??
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on October 09, 2009, 02:58:45 am
they're not the same quarry

the whack sounds like its what a couple of us christened city wall, but never went back to do. thought round about 7c but easier if you were tall. decent looking bit of wall, the only thing there tho. basically head up the a640 towards the motorway from diggle/delph, always get confused which is which (its the one next to uppermill), its on the right half way up the hill in a little bay quarry kind of thing. very obvious when you're there
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 09, 2009, 08:41:48 am
Cheers Dense, I'll have a looksie soon.

Any knowledge on Huddersfield Road Quarry?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on October 09, 2009, 09:59:53 am
From the details Simon sent me, the Whack is on one of these boulders. (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=oldham&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=13.648906,32.958984&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Oldham,+Lancashire,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.618446,-1.974481&spn=0.003341,0.008047&t=h&z=17)

Huddersfield quarry (and Vengeance) is apparently up the hill from Mumps Bridge roudabout. The roundabout is here (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=oldham&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=13.648906,32.958984&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Oldham,+Lancashire,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.542603,-2.101564&spn=0.006694,0.016093&t=h&z=16), not sure which quarry it is.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fashionguru on October 09, 2009, 10:15:18 am
From the details Simon sent me, the Whack is on one of these boulders. (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=oldham&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=13.648906,32.958984&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Oldham,+Lancashire,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.618446,-1.974481&spn=0.003341,0.008047&t=h&z=17)

Rman if this is correct then the discription that is give earlier is wrong.

This is a natural outcrop and not a quarry.

From what I can remember when I looked at this area sometime in 94-96 there was a wall that could have been as the description "Undercut wall (has a cave at the bottom) up the blankness.

I treid but could get no where near doing it so gave up. Plus lots of needles and used condoms to contend with.

Hope this helps the matter but I dont think it does.

T
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on October 09, 2009, 10:20:42 am
You're right, the earlier description is different to the text I got. We'll have to wait for Simon to clarify.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on October 09, 2009, 10:29:36 am
My mistake, sorry. Yes it is a natural crag:

As I wrote at the time:

"Charles Cooper continues to develop minor gritstone crags in the Oldham area. His most recent conquest is situated just off the A640 Huddersfield road. To reach it from the centre of Oldham drive up the A672 for approximately five miles, turning right onto the A640 at Denshaw. Continue for a further four miles to Moss Moor, passing a large lone house; half a mile beyond there is a car park on the right (opposite a left turn). A one minute walk from the car park leads to a small collection of boulders. The Whack (V10/7c+), is the obvious thin undercut face problem with a crux pull on and an easier but highball finish. The blocks on the left and right are out of bounds. There is one other significant problem here; an obvious steep prow."

I think I've got a photo of this somewhere. I remember it looked like a good piece of rock.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on October 09, 2009, 04:52:12 pm
there are no quarries up the hill from mumps bridge roundabout, but there is a big sign saying "oldham home of the tubigrip". you could also say all the quarries are up the road from the roundabout, the same way you could say widdop is north of watford gap
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on October 09, 2009, 05:00:26 pm
Could it be this one (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=oldham&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=13.648906,32.958984&ie=UTF8&t=h&hq=&hnear=Oldham,+Lancashire,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.547715,-2.065172&spn=0.006693,0.016093&z=16)? It's called Huddersfield Road Quarry, must be on Huddersfield road somewhere.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on October 09, 2009, 05:04:48 pm
nik i was talking out of my backside about the whack sounding the same as city wall, tho it does. i have tried to look a few times, on own, for the bit of bouldering on the a640 but never found it, me n jim have also spent a couple of hours going up and down that road looking for it. no joy.
so as far as i'm aware city wall is still up for grabs, seem to remember saying we would take a ladder, or rope to one of fences, and clean top. this is on the a62 between the spot that says huddersfield rd and new hook farm (?), basically opp the dowry reservoir on the rhs as you go up the hill. will be a decent prob, warm up elsewhere since theres no other decent bits
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on October 09, 2009, 05:14:51 pm
that quarry doesn't seem to have rocks in, but i'm not really very good with google. i know there is a huddersfield rd quarry, there were rumours of an old school 6c there, back before cars, but again i couldn't find it. caveat, i can read maps and follow directions
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 09, 2009, 05:29:18 pm
Cheers for the additional information various peeps. I will endevour to locate some of these problems next week and shall report back. This is all good fun, I feel like I'm in the Famous Five or something...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on October 09, 2009, 05:46:04 pm
Photos please.  :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 09, 2009, 06:05:16 pm
Will do, unless I can't find anything in which case I will only be able to supply images of a fed-up looking scruffy short-arse and a dog delirious with exercise.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on October 09, 2009, 06:27:22 pm
I would be well keen to go looking for this stuff again, however I'm going to a place where you will struggle to not find good rock and excellent problems next week.
When I return I will however still be keen
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on October 09, 2009, 06:28:02 pm
Oh yeah, if you find some good stuff, try and get a gps position or lat/long  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 09, 2009, 06:45:32 pm
I'll have a scout about Jim and let you know what I find. I'll try and work out some GPS thing but it's not a sphere of technology I am especially au fait with...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on October 09, 2009, 06:47:53 pm
You can borrow mine.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on October 12, 2009, 05:08:03 pm
 :jaw: fairly significant me thinks.. a certain blackpooler has repeated Kaizan.. the proper way! effort! 14 v points there!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 12, 2009, 05:10:50 pm
:jaw: fairly significant me thinks.. a certain blackpooler has repeated Kaizan.. the proper way! effort! 14 v points there!

Effort Sam!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 13, 2009, 09:01:50 am
Is that the proper second ascent then or has anyone else done it? Really good effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 13, 2009, 01:05:10 pm
He's-no-one-trick-rocket-propelled-man-"Rocketman"- Rob Smith, may not understand "all this science" but that didn't stop him making the first rocketpack assisted ascent of Ray's Roof a few days back. Effort that (rocket)man!  :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on October 13, 2009, 01:13:45 pm
he's carrying the torch for laughter-stricken, jet-propelled midgets around the globe. nice work rob.

(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s174/Rgilbert44/rocket-man.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Rocketman Rob Smith on October 14, 2009, 10:47:33 am
Thanks guys. Tell you what, I could have done with some rocket pack power to help with the final thrutch, two inches up....one down, two inches up....one down...and repeat.....until you reach the top eventually, exhausted and feeling about ready to throw up.

a great route and totally made up to do it. 

Jolly "the original rocketman" Roger
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on October 14, 2009, 10:56:53 am
nice one rocketman, good send. We should all club together and buy you a salad.

(http://blogs.guardian.co.uk/food/rocket440.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on October 14, 2009, 07:18:23 pm
Great effort Rob,you can show me your scars - and nice to see the G's K get a repeat, Sam must be in the premier league now.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatneck on October 14, 2009, 08:26:23 pm
Quote from: UTG
and nice to see the G's K get a repeat, Sam must be in the premier league now

Indeed. Some serious crushing that...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on October 14, 2009, 08:31:26 pm
Good effort from Weak Sam.  Anyine know if he's managed his mammoth link yet?  8b+ perchance?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 14, 2009, 08:49:55 pm
Nice one Rob and Sam, beasts.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on October 16, 2009, 11:19:21 am
Would like to take issue with a certain friend and fellow punter about the issue of getting a grip.
What is there to hold onto other than holds and social convention?
DON't try too hard you may pull something!
lots of love Punter Pat
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Slide on October 16, 2009, 12:58:04 pm
What sort of training for Font is that Rob??

Awesome tho...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 17, 2009, 07:39:33 pm
Jordan did Power Ranger today.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on October 17, 2009, 09:58:46 pm
Nice work on the van Adam, virtually electromagnetic psychotronic mind control proofed.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3120/3990180222_4be7a87606.jpg)

For that alone you get the
(http://www.city-data.com/forum/attachments/elections/14922d1203442021-obama-illegals-share-same-message-n522306244_197290_3718.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 17, 2009, 10:04:14 pm
Jordan did Power Ranger today.  :thumbsup:
Doesn't sound very injured :-\

Effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on October 19, 2009, 08:34:41 pm
Well done old sport.
Is it a sport roawt?
Can you jingle your jangles off it?
Stone the crows I could do with a good climb myself.
I was thinking of Snowdon, actually, dust of the old crampons, what.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 19, 2009, 08:46:27 pm
Nice work on the van Adam, virtually electromagnetic psychotronic mind control proofed.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3120/3990180222_4be7a87606.jpg)

For that alone you get the
(http://www.city-data.com/forum/attachments/elections/14922d1203442021-obama-illegals-share-same-message-n522306244_197290_3718.jpg)

They can still tell when you're asleep and come in and move the furniture around.
You can prove this by lining up all the edges of the furniture and counting all the corners in the room before you go to sleep. There should be just as many corners when you wake up.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on October 19, 2009, 10:47:14 pm
Jordan did Power Ranger today.  :thumbsup:
Ste mac redpointed cry freedom and onsighted idefix (8b) same day.(saturday)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: griffer on October 20, 2009, 09:05:21 pm
Jenny did Predator this evening (first female ascent?)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on October 20, 2009, 09:26:37 pm
Awesome!   :dance1:   Its seen lots of attemtion this year, its a bloody trade route. It's like soooo last thursday. :whistle:

Excellent tick Jenny. Well done. Impressive tick to add to an already impressive tick list for this year!

Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on October 20, 2009, 10:54:19 pm
Well impressive   :great:. The hardest ascent in the UK by a female since the days of Ruth Jenkins???
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 20, 2009, 10:58:50 pm
Well impressive   :great:. The hardest ascent in the UK by a female since the days of Ruth Jenkins???

Karin and Lucy have done Huecool (8b)

(http://www.lucycreamer.com/pictures/Lucy_Huecool-_8b.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on October 20, 2009, 11:19:17 pm
hasnt karin done another couple 8b's as well? i believe huecool is supposed to be easier than predator?  Will reckons it was a lot easier.  (not my opinion i cannot comment :) )

Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 20, 2009, 11:28:13 pm
hasnt karin done another couple 8b's as well?

Stolen is 8a+/b
(http://www.karinmagog.co.uk/Pictures/images/Stolen,-Kilnsey-Karin-8b.jpg)

Also done Climb Of The Century but that is supposed to be 8a+?
(http://www.karinmagog.co.uk/Pictures/ClimbOfTheCenturyKarin01.jpg)

Karin on Huecool
(http://www.karinmagog.co.uk/Pictures/images/Huecool-by-steve-crowe.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on October 20, 2009, 11:30:16 pm
hasnt karin done another couple 8b's as well?

Stolen is 8a+/b
(http://www.karinmagog.co.uk/Pictures/images/Stolen,-Kilnsey-Karin-8b.jpg)

Also done Climb Of The Century but that is supposed to be 8a+?
(http://www.karinmagog.co.uk/Pictures/ClimbOfTheCenturyKarin01.jpg)

like the quick pictured replies. :)

Tim
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on October 21, 2009, 12:21:55 am
The thing i like best about the miaow walk is if you look away from the crag the awe of the cove sort of arches out in a semi circle and then runs into the landscape to form a circle. Its rad man.
Ah, the undervalued nature of nature, i love it, even a walk suits me.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 21, 2009, 09:29:37 am
Much as I hate to drag this thread back to vaguely Nik's Wall related stuff I have researched these new Chas Cooper problems on t'interweb a bit more and come up with the following:
The Whack 7C+
The description for this problems location suggests that it is almost certainly at Buckstones/Nont Sarahs. This is almost certainly the case as in the description it also mentions that the other problem of note in a large prow. This is Pig In A Pokey/Okey Dokey (and a selection of silly link-ups) as shown in these videos
GCW on Pig In A Pokey, 7a+, The Buckstones (http://vimeo.com/1333504)

Nik bouldering at Buckstones (http://vimeo.com/900293)

Nik at Work on the First Ascent of Okey Pokey, Fb7b+, Buckstones (http://vimeo.com/1226852)

The Whack is a problem that I think I remember seeing, it is just down and left of the prow, obvious sit start in a little recess, hard pull onto the face then easy finish. I didn't try it when I did the other problems as it is a bit eliminate (footblocks to the left and right) but now I'm inspired I'll give it a whirl. I'll try and head over there today and get a photo.

Vengance
I really have no idea where this quarry would be, up the road from Mumps roudabout? Looking at Google earth doesn't seem to reveal much so before heading off on an epic quest to Oldham I thought I'd ask if anybody has any concrete knowledge on this one?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: PATRuL on October 21, 2009, 10:08:26 am
looks like a lot of fun, there's even a balletic piroette, nice.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on October 21, 2009, 10:30:29 am
The Whack 7C+

That's the thing we looked at and dismissed as being a bit daft?  Certainly looked hard though, assuming it's the same thing.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on October 21, 2009, 02:44:00 pm
Quote
heading off on an epic quest to Oldham

Don't ask anybody if they can "show you the way to 'Old 'em".
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 21, 2009, 03:46:32 pm
The Whack

It is indeed the thing we looked at, had a feel of the holds and then dismissed as a bit daft and eliminate. It is eliminate, but is actually a rather good problem. Bit of a one move wonder.
This is the problem:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2590/4031490549_d49d2fbbae_m.jpg)
You start with your left on a dirty sharp sidepull crimp thus:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2527/4031490551_dcc1469f46_m.jpg)
Right on a poor small slopey thingy-ma-bob:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3142/4031490555_19d116d873_m.jpg)
Smear your left foot on the lip pull on and then pop up for a good right hand:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2537/4031490563_389c61746e_m.jpg)

The left starting hold is VERY sharp, I brushed up the holds a bit then swazzled a flash but on reaching the top discovered this:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3654/4031490567_77b9012e39_m.jpg)
Thats just from pulling on once, multiple goes on this are not an option.

Anyway it's a nice move, the finish is scay when wet as it's covered in green slime but in the dry would be very easy. I don't flash 7C+, but maybe I was just lucky? I can imagine it feeling nails if you every time you try it you get a go or two then have to wait two weeks for your finger to heal. Fuck it, I'll take 7C+ until Jim downgrades it to 7A...

I know this doesn't belong in significant repeats really, sorry.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on October 21, 2009, 04:10:21 pm
Where's that big medal gone?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 21, 2009, 04:13:26 pm
(http://i33.tinypic.com/2lc008l.gif)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 21, 2009, 04:13:32 pm
Quote
I don't flash 7C+, but maybe I was just lucky?

Maybe all that pulling on minging wet limestone has done you some good  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on October 21, 2009, 04:16:34 pm
The Whack

It is indeed the thing we looked at, had a feel of the holds and then dismissed as a bit daft and eliminate. It is eliminate, but is actually a rather good problem. Bit of a one move wonder.
This is the problem:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2590/4031490549_d49d2fbbae_m.jpg)
I remember looking at this problem and thinking the same
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 21, 2009, 04:28:14 pm
Where's that big medal gone?

 :lol:

You've got me.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 22, 2009, 07:53:12 am
Oh just to add The Whack is a standing start. I think I suggested it was a sitter a few posts back, this was wrong. Or if it is a sitter it's about 9a...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on October 22, 2009, 04:31:57 pm
Oh just to add The Whack is a standing start. I think I suggested it was a sitter a few posts back, this was wrong. Or if it is a sitter it's about 9a...

I found the pics of this today, and can confirm that that is the Whack. The only thing that occurs to me is whether not using a pad would make any difference to the start, as Chas is not using one in the pics I've seen.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on October 22, 2009, 06:29:41 pm
Not using a pad may make it a bit trickier to get your left foot on, dependant on flexibility I suppose. However in terms of pulling on/up once your foots on I can't see it making much difference, you have to pull hard whatever.

Just to be clear, I'm not suggesting it's not 7c+, it may well be. If I hadn't hit the hold straight off then I wouldn't have subsequently done due to the hole in my finger. I can imagine it repeatedly cutting holes in your tips, then a couple of weeks lay off to heal, then another go, another hole etc etc and before you know it the problem has taken over a month to climb and feels nails. I'm just saying I haven't previously flashed 7c+, no more and no less. Perhaps this should be in YYFY then?

Anyway still interested to hear about his sequence on Nik's Wall so if you hear any more from him please pass the info on.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 22, 2009, 08:02:56 pm
Ryan had a session and a half at Rubicon today.

Finished off Caviar. Then he did Barracuda (Is this settling at 8b+?)  in about 45 mins, then warmed down with a quick ascent of Beluga.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on October 22, 2009, 08:39:57 pm
Then he did Barracuda (Is this settling at 8b+?)

Ryan has the casting vote I think. I thought it a grade harder than Zeke but it's really hard to tell with these boulder routes. I would have thought with a fast ascent Ryan would think 8b, but he's more than capable of doing 8b+ that fast.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 22, 2009, 08:46:58 pm
Then he did Barracuda (Is this settling at 8b+?)

Ryan has the casting vote I think. I thought it a grade harder than Zeke but it's really hard to tell with these boulder routes. I would have thought with a fast ascent Ryan would think 8b, but he's more than capable of doing 8b+ that fast.

I think he thought it 8b. I had a brief play before skin was getting eaten, and from my armchair i would say 8b was about right. Tad harder than Zeke though.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on October 22, 2009, 08:53:43 pm
There you go then, it's likely to be 8b.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 22, 2009, 10:17:57 pm
There you go then, it's likely to be 8b.

You might want to ask Ryan though when you see him. You know what he is like for commenting on grades...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on October 24, 2009, 08:51:24 am
Good effort Ryan and hardly surprsing he did it so quick. If you're strong enough and you like nasty holds it will go down really quick. I'm really not sure of the grade now as I think most climbers operating at that grade will find it horrendous due to the nature of the climbing.

Zeke is 8b but really right at the bottom of the grade and barracuda is at least at the other end of the spectrum if not a bit further. It's easy to feel very close to it but in reality to be a way off. Hopefully it will see some more repeats by the end of the season.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on October 24, 2009, 01:51:29 pm
Good effort Ryan and hardly surprsing he did it so quick. If you're strong enough and you like nasty holds it will go down really quick. I'm really not sure of the grade now as I think most climbers operating at that grade will find it horrendous due to the nature of the climbing.

Zeke is 8b but really right at the bottom of the grade and barracuda is at least at the other end of the spectrum if not a bit further. It's easy to feel very close to it but in reality to be a way off. Hopefully it will see some more repeats by the end of the season.

Theres a massive difference between something thats low in the grade and something thats hard as we all know. Zoolook/Toadall Recall, Mussel Beach/ Statement. The Bastard/Make it Funky etc.. Pascal said 8b but then a):he has been cranking on pockets in the jura pretty recently b): he is friggin awesome and c): he is a lanky prick
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on October 24, 2009, 03:17:08 pm
I knew he was lanky but i didn't know he was a prick
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on October 24, 2009, 03:45:14 pm
I was thinking of the old Termiantor / Rose analogy myself. I suspect a & b would be the main contributors to sucess as c wouldn't be an advantage on this route unless he used a different sequence which for the life of me i can't imagine (hard move to the pocket with LH and hard pop to the crimp with RH).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on October 24, 2009, 04:14:24 pm
I knew he was lanky but i didn't know he was a prick

yeah he is
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on October 24, 2009, 09:32:44 pm
I knew he was lanky but i didn't know he was a prick

The two things seem to go hand in hand as from what I've heard. Which is most commonly: "You lanky prick"
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on October 26, 2009, 07:36:53 pm
It may not be significant to most but the bishop blog reports that Fred Nicole repeated the swarm, any time nicole does anything its significant to me - note to self, get   a     life.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on October 26, 2009, 11:07:38 pm
Au contraire mon ami, I always think its significant to hear about guys like Fred Nicole, Birkett, McClure, Moon, Haston et. al going strong when they're hitting their forties and beyond. Its reassuring to think I've got a buffer of a good 20 years to climb 8a  ;D

On a more serious note, I do think these ascents should be highlighted. Proof that you don't have to be a 6 stone 16 year old wunderkind to perform at or near the top level. You've just got to put the effort in and want it enough. Bon effort Fred.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 04, 2009, 11:30:32 am
Sleepy Rave, James Kassay, 8C!

http://photos.jameskassay.com/Videos/Bouldering/4971213_4zpMG (http://photos.jameskassay.com/Videos/Bouldering/4971213_4zpMG)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on November 04, 2009, 11:39:12 am
he made that look hard didnt he ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on November 04, 2009, 11:51:24 am
 :o Thats immense!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on November 04, 2009, 11:54:53 am
How long is that thing? 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 04, 2009, 12:18:16 pm
It's Wheel Of Life minus a 7C start. So, very long.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on November 04, 2009, 12:26:25 pm
It's Wheel Of Life minus a 7C start. So, very long.

I thought it looked like that when it started off.

Surely a route grade would be more apposite for such things (like Steve McClure gave his long thing on Face of Business).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on November 04, 2009, 12:31:13 pm
(and malc gave the big link in the cave)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on November 04, 2009, 01:21:36 pm
That looks about twice as long as Silk Cut or the Big Link! I reckon a route grade would be more appropriate.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on November 04, 2009, 01:43:56 pm
I don't think anything with multiple shakeouts is in the spirit of bouldering!

Where's a Gaskins V15 when you need one?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cowboyhat on November 04, 2009, 02:47:05 pm
What a fresh debate!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on November 04, 2009, 02:56:12 pm
Indeed because describing it as Font 8b+ or French 9a would be a radical move.

What about we have a new grading system L, for long.  We could have EL (easy) through to EL extremely long.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on November 04, 2009, 03:55:02 pm
It's Wheel Of Life minus a 7C start. So, very long.

so is WoL very, very long then? or very, very, very?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 04, 2009, 04:01:30 pm
If using bouldering grades there is good enough for Dai Koyamada and Fred Nicole then it's good enough for me.

We don't need a new grading system, we need to say 'fuck that looks like some hard mother fucking rock climbing' (or words to that effect) and leave it at that. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on November 04, 2009, 04:29:23 pm
Interesting thoughts from Sharma (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2125)...

Quote from: Chris Sharma
he hardest problems today are either super painful because the holds are so small, or really, really condition dependant... it's not fun anymore... it doesn't really interest me to climb 8C+ or whatever. I think it's difficult to get much further, unless the problems simply get longer, but why not climb a route then instead? On a route, you can have 8A sequences stacked on top of eachother... there's no limit there.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on November 04, 2009, 04:36:40 pm
Bouldering on ropes, I like it.  :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 04, 2009, 05:02:44 pm
Why not climb a route instead?

Because i'd rather be able to pull onto to the crux of my boulder problem (like in the cave or Hollow Mountain) and try when I want to, rather than having to dog up a rope and piss someone of by them having to belay me for 2 hours!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on November 04, 2009, 06:49:37 pm
^This. I like being able to do lots of moves and risk nothing more than a slight pump or maybe a bruised bum. Traverses > Routes.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: DaveC on November 04, 2009, 08:39:10 pm


so is WoL very, very long then? or very, very, very?
[/quote]

Went for a look  when we were in the area earlier this year and got tired just walking along it!  :P Yep, it's pretty long.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Carnage on November 04, 2009, 09:41:12 pm
Its a very impressive line, 'in the flesh' so to speak. The start is a bit bum dragging but is a pure line following flakes and ribs. Theres the harder direct finish to be done too. Dai finished up Raveheart (V8) which is kinda to heading out right. The direct finish straight through the roof via Amniotic World V10 is still waiting for someone with ridiculous stamina.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on November 05, 2009, 09:35:01 am
Route or boulder problem, who cares? Like Carnage says it’s a very impressive and pure line on amazing rock. I’d have to say it’s one of the most amazing lines I’ve ever seen.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chummer on November 06, 2009, 03:12:22 pm
Whats the point of really long boulder problems, you may as well just do a route, or better still do a route close to the ground so you can sack off the ropes and that and solo it but to stop you breaking your legs you could just stick to routes that follow really steep low roofs, that would be much better. :whistle:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on November 06, 2009, 03:22:47 pm
i think theres some good ones in Oz
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on November 12, 2009, 11:50:41 am
Mina just did molunk (7c) and frogger (7c+/8a) in Brione! Pretty good effort as frogger is very burly and i think molunk has only seen one other female ascent?!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy B on November 12, 2009, 11:54:26 am
I remember Molunk feeling quite spanny too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on November 13, 2009, 02:33:15 pm
I remember Molunk feeling quite spanny too.

Tis pretty spanny, think thats why so few ladies have done it!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on November 13, 2009, 04:46:50 pm
Mina's a beast!

I like the way Mina took 7c+ for Frogger then her boyfriend Kook took 8a  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on November 29, 2009, 03:40:00 pm
Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!

Was sweet!

Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!

Both beasts!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on November 29, 2009, 05:26:44 pm
Lancashire's most modest and finest crimper managed to crimp his way up Moffatt's testpiece Evolution earlier today in dismayingly poor conditions! Awesome effort !!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 29, 2009, 05:37:04 pm
Lancashire's most modest and finest crimper managed to crimp his way up Moffatt's testpiece Evolution earlier today in dismayingly poor conditions! Awesome effort !!

By eck, it was wet at the bottom yesterday, beast!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on November 29, 2009, 06:21:03 pm
A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success. Noticeably a certain German 9a+ climber and 8c boulderer who's spent a lot of time on it over 3 trips and still not done it. 8c?

Incidentally I didn't think it possible that someone could climb this route not climbing 1 single move in the way I have always tried it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 29, 2009, 06:34:54 pm
Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!

Was sweet!

Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!

Both beasts!

 :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on November 29, 2009, 06:35:51 pm
A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success. Noticeably a certain German 9a+ climber and 8c boulderer who's spent a lot of time on it over 3 trips and still not done it. 8c?

Very True Indeed, looked ever bit as hard as I would have imagined!

Incidentally I didn't think it possible that someone could climb this route not climbing 1 single move in the way I have always tried it.

T'was Interesting watching both Ryan and Smit try it today, with massively different sequences through most of the bottom 2/3rds!!

Inspirational stuff!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on November 29, 2009, 06:39:44 pm
A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success.

Didn't Simpson do it?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on November 29, 2009, 06:53:58 pm
Footage of pascal trying it last week:
Evolution Attempt (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R9WbDFpOs8#)

Simpson did it in 2005 i think.
Smit reckons 8c+ and he should know, he's pretty good at the tor, hard 8c's and Kaabah (8c+),Hooligan,  SB/PUTP etc..
 :bounce:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 29, 2009, 07:05:23 pm
Pic of an attempt last week.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2621/4120905380_8329a219a6.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamlincoln/4120905380/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on November 30, 2009, 09:27:14 am
Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!

Was sweet!

Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!

Both beasts!

Oh dear Dave, you spelt my name wrong and how long have I known you? I'll forgive you I suppose. Good to see you at the weekend
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 30, 2009, 12:19:49 pm
Nice to see some Evolution footage. Awesome stuff (and obviously 8c+).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on November 30, 2009, 12:58:06 pm
Didn't Jerry give it F8c+ originally? And it got downgraded to F8c? Or am I getting mixed up with Progress. Cool vid footage.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on November 30, 2009, 01:45:14 pm
Didn't Jerry give it F8c+ originally? And it got downgraded to F8c? Or am I getting mixed up with Progress. Cool vid footage.

I think he gave them both 8c+, then they came down to 8c and now there back up to 8c+ (Progress lost holds though). And Liquid Ambar's probably 8c+ on the quiet (no upgrade here though). Legend !!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cowboyhat on December 01, 2009, 12:00:10 pm
Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on December 01, 2009, 12:12:29 pm
Well if Smit and Mcclure both reckon 8c+ then 8c+ it is. Hasn't one of the holds crumbled slightly since the early repeats also?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on December 01, 2009, 12:27:27 pm
Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.

Only Nic, the world's most prolific undergrader.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 01, 2009, 06:21:55 pm
Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:

Simpson vs Steck (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2306)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on December 01, 2009, 06:22:54 pm
that is well outside the fucking box.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 01, 2009, 07:05:18 pm
are you guys the crew?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on December 01, 2009, 07:11:05 pm
Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.

Only Nic, the world's most prolific undergrader.

The rumour Mill spun a more elaborate explanation to me. That Nic downgraded Evolution to 8c, as Jerry had 'stolen' progress from him at Kilnsey, knowing full well it was his Project??

However don't take that as gospel.... :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on December 01, 2009, 09:36:35 pm
Nic did it from the block at the bottom on day 2. He thought the French 6c link into this from the bottom would be a formality but it took him another 4 days. Malc did in an extreemly hot summer and the  concensus was 8c. I think Nic was probably at his peak and this suited him to the ground and 8c+ it always was. He probably rated it against LA which he thought was desparate and thought he just simply didn't have the power for.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Kingy on December 01, 2009, 10:18:22 pm
More info on Progress relevant in the context of the grade of Evolution.

From High Mag Sept 95 Rock Notes which I have just dug out of storage (paraphrased):

Progress was first equipped and subsequently abandoned by Paul Ingham. Nic and Tony Mitchell had been vying for the prize of climbing this 'open project'. Jerry asked Nic if the project was open and having gained the relevant 'consent' set about climbing the line with an efficiency which must have made Nic and Tony, both of whom had made great progress on the line in their 2 years of attempts, want to hang up their boots. 

I guess this is what was reported at the time although the reality may have been different, who knows?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 02, 2009, 08:39:14 am
Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:

Simpson vs Steck (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2306)

Blimey. And I see from the Cocktalk thread that it's all Grimer's fault.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2009, 09:20:53 am
runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award

Was that deliberate? If so, nice.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on December 03, 2009, 12:39:07 pm
Mina ticks Fake Pamplemousse at Brione 8a.  For me this is amazing and by far the most impressive and probably hardest thing she's done. The other stuff she's done are hard but it didn't surprise me that she'd ticked them having very strong fingers.  Stuff like Teamwork and Le Pilier see female ascents evrry winter.  This however is pure burl, every move is pretty hard with the crux first move being burly as hell.  It was enough to stop Smitton in his tracks when i was there with him.     :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

What a beast!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Somebody's Fool on December 03, 2009, 08:12:31 pm
Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:

Simpson vs Steck (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2306)

Do you need 'elmet for the Eiger?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on December 04, 2009, 12:39:09 pm
Mina ticks Fake Pamplemousse at Brione 8a.  For me this is amazing and by far the most impressive and probably hardest thing she's done. The other stuff she's done are hard but it didn't surprise me that she'd ticked them having very strong fingers.  Stuff like Teamwork and Le Pilier see female ascents evrry winter.  This however is pure burl, every move is pretty hard with the crux first move being burly as hell.  It was enough to stop Smitton in his tracks when i was there with him.     :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

What a beast!

Aye this is an impressive send! Very burly, not a female style at all.Be interesting to know if it has had any other female ascents.

Mina text me when she did it saying that it was her favourite tick of the trip!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on December 04, 2009, 01:53:20 pm
Racist!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on December 04, 2009, 02:28:59 pm
Tourettes!

(is this a new game?)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Houdini on December 05, 2009, 06:58:41 am
Y*d!

(*f you w*nt)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Will Hunt on December 05, 2009, 06:34:17 pm
Watched Justin someone-or-other (from Lincolnshire, ginger hair & beard. Second name might have something to do with Plum?) do Demon Wall Roof Footless today. Hand in the juggy thing in the roof. Left hand to the lip. Right hand to the crimp. Matched and went. Made it look piss. Was supposed to be unrepeated.
 :bow:


BTW DWR with feet is unjustifiable but I can do Pebble Wall again which I haven't done for a while.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on December 05, 2009, 06:36:04 pm
Watched Justin someone-or-other (from Lincolnshire, ginger hair & beard. Second name might have something to do with Plum?) do Demon Wall Roof Footless today. Hand in the juggy thing in the roof. Left hand to the lip. Right hand to the crimp. Matched and went. Made it look piss. Was supposed to be unrepeated.
 :bow:


BTW DWR with feet is unjustifiable but I can do Pebble Wall again which I haven't done for a while.

That will be Justin 'The Lion/Homeless looking hobo' Plumtree...effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 06, 2009, 09:40:29 am
Mina is at it again, Habe Die Ehre, 8a. Is it insulting to call her a beast?!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on December 06, 2009, 09:51:00 am
Mina is at it again, Habe Die Ehre, 8a. Is it insulting to call her a beast?!

not wrong beast she is.....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Teaboy on December 08, 2009, 11:39:59 am
Has this been mentioned yet?

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)

Although I can't work out if it is a repeat or a new line. Alan Cassidy has also just  done (another?) 8c.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 08, 2009, 12:15:59 pm
Has this been mentioned yet?

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)



Yes. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg222048.html#msg222048)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: RichK on December 08, 2009, 12:44:23 pm
Has this been mentioned yet?

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)

Although I can't work out if it is a repeat or a new line. Alan Cassidy has also just  done (another?) 8c.

Come on Teaboy...keep up, you'll be losing your Rock Triv nerd crown. ;D
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Teaboy on December 08, 2009, 03:42:56 pm
Dam! I misread the date of his blog!  :rtfm:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on December 11, 2009, 11:30:45 am
I heard dark horse Dan Constant Variable did Careless Torque yesterday.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 11, 2009, 11:34:40 am
you're right. also sounds like there were some seriously fucked-up rocher-canon style linkups going down on that face. is this boulder now the stanage uberwad's answer to pinches wall?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on December 11, 2009, 01:54:06 pm
I heard dark horse Dan Constant Variable did Careless Torque yesterday.

He did indeed, after a fall from the very top, indeed a fall that was taken by a few folk on a few occasions.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on December 18, 2009, 06:36:02 pm
Adam Long got two steps closer to being the last man to do CT ground up today!!  ;).....as Caff and Bransby both dispatched it with style!

Massively impressive to watch two beasts of smaller phyiscal stature cruise it with ease with a tenuous looking top sequence!! Good work guys!  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on December 18, 2009, 07:27:03 pm
must have been chilly mawr out there...
...was there much snow?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on December 18, 2009, 07:28:03 pm
sorry, good effort shorties!!
Come on JB, let's be having you...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on December 18, 2009, 08:27:09 pm
Very cold, especially once the sun went behind the clouds late on.... Not a great deal of snow, a 'dusting' at best really, and the temperature is preventing it from melting and soaking everything at the minute.... :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on December 18, 2009, 11:21:14 pm
dolph did toy boy today. tho his repeats bore me so i'm going to take it as read that he's done or will do everything except voyager. which he can't do since he's plainly not very good
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 18, 2009, 11:26:08 pm
It's about time he realised his potential, the underachieving cunt.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 18, 2009, 11:30:21 pm
We need to get him to man up over winter and lose another 2 stone so he can float along those grim crimps Lee... and tick the Peak  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on December 18, 2009, 11:32:21 pm
if he does i'm going to report it before tony does
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 18, 2009, 11:34:02 pm
Good luck with that and make sure you report it as 8B/E7/8  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: northerngreg on January 04, 2010, 07:06:00 pm
Vincent Pochon has repeated The Island in Font. Although Dave Graham graded it 8C, Pochon added a couple of moves to the start.

More on the other channel. (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51102)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on January 04, 2010, 09:59:57 pm
 :o 8B into 8C? Am I the only one scratching my metaphorical beard? or is Pochon a well-deserving beast?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: hairich on January 04, 2010, 10:08:06 pm
if i had done that there would be pics and video all over the show.but then i am a media whore
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on January 04, 2010, 10:08:21 pm
Is this the 4th ascent?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on January 05, 2010, 11:20:20 am
Is this the 4th ascent?

Bleau.info thinks so

opened on :07.04.2008 David Graham

repetitions : 3 public registrations
03.01.2010 - Vincent Pochon (FRA)
08.12.2008 - Sam Edwards (AUS)
29.10.2008 - Nalle Hukkataival (FIN)

Anyone know if Mr Landman had a pop on this when he was in between the trees?? Could we chip in a few quid and send him back to polish of the sitter
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on January 05, 2010, 02:28:39 pm
he's too small, can't reach between the holds
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Eddies on January 12, 2010, 09:42:49 pm
Team ascent of Slingshot
(http://media.moonclimbing.com/cache/photos/united-kingdom/Slingshot.jpg_580.jpg)
Flashed by Pasquill    :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on January 13, 2010, 10:58:14 am
Nice pic. Froggatt seems to be a good location in the snow.

Was it Macleod or Berry who said something about Slingshot being nigh on impossible if you're tall? I remember thinking at the time it sounded like bullsh*t...

Was looking (from the floor) at Chequers Groove to the right and that looks like it has some decent holds, though chalk all over the place...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 13, 2010, 11:31:17 am
Did Ry even have to do the jump?  :-*
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on January 13, 2010, 12:24:26 pm
No one has to jump unless your a complete midget or have zero tension. Your right foot stays on nicely!

Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Eddies on January 13, 2010, 12:34:07 pm
Awesome work Dave.
McCloud said that after training specificaly for that big move for weeks he was still only latching it roughly 1 in 10 goes!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 13, 2010, 12:48:58 pm
Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!

bit cold for getting yer balls out!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on January 13, 2010, 12:53:37 pm
Yes, good work men. How many pads are needed? Did anyone get on/do chequers groove?
Would be well keen to get on these, if I get home from work alive today...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 13, 2010, 12:57:19 pm
Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!

World's greatest speech (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6rDeOojFXk#)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on January 13, 2010, 01:00:22 pm
Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!

World's greatest speech (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6rDeOojFXk#)

you beat me to it!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on January 13, 2010, 04:41:51 pm
Yes, good work men. How many pads are needed? Did anyone get on/do chequers groove?
Would be well keen to get on these, if I get home from work alive today...

Pads wise think we had about 7 or 8 but you could def do it with 5 or 6. Mike did chequers a few days before, me and ryan didnt get on it, am keen though. It is a good place to go when all this snow is about but not sure with the melting now.

Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!

bit cold for getting yer balls out!

You'd have loved it matey!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on January 14, 2010, 08:49:53 am
Yes, good work men. How many pads are needed? Did anyone get on/do chequers groove?
Would be well keen to get on these, if I get home from work alive today...

Pads wise think we had about 7 or 8 but you could def do it with 5 or 6. Mike did chequers a few days before, me and ryan didnt get on it, am keen though. It is a good place to go when all this snow is about but not sure with the melting now.

Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!

bit cold for getting yer balls out!

You'd have loved it matey!


7 or 8 pads, I was there when mo did it with just my shitty little lost arrow pad
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on January 14, 2010, 09:01:56 am
Look at you. Didn't mo work it on a rope first?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 14, 2010, 11:31:24 am
Is it still 8b?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on January 14, 2010, 02:37:47 pm
Look at you. Didn't mo work it on a rope first?

that he did, till it was wired, he still fell off mind trying to pose for the pics
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: saltbeef on January 14, 2010, 06:13:45 pm

(http://media.moonclimbing.com/cache/photos/united-kingdom/Slingshot.jpg_580.jpg)
or have zero tension. Your right foot stays on nicely!

er, those feet appear to be off...  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on January 14, 2010, 07:11:49 pm
Where does the boulder problem finish? Is it on the ledge with the little tree on?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 14, 2010, 08:05:55 pm
Yeah. 4c descent to the left.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Somebody's Fool on January 14, 2010, 08:06:11 pm
The 'Quill:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2740/4274751990_0b00693717_m.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Somebody's Fool on January 14, 2010, 08:14:15 pm
The 'Quill:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2740/4274751990_0b00693717
.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: count von potslo on January 15, 2010, 09:04:37 am
nice use of feet!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Duma on January 15, 2010, 08:16:42 pm
Look at you. Didn't mo work it on a rope first?

that he did, till it was wired, he still fell off mind trying to pose for the pics

there's a rope in the pic too...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on January 27, 2010, 01:10:19 pm
James Kassidy has done another one of the Grampians long traverses, Hate Machine 8b+. Also look like he did PHM Eve Rve 8b+ on the same day.

The poor bastard is taking a pasting from the 8a.wanker forum lot thou. Another case of is it a boulder or is it a route, either way bon effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 27, 2010, 03:46:49 pm
James Kassidy

Who?
You mean James Kassay...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on January 27, 2010, 05:00:53 pm
Did he ever run the 100m by any chance? Because he practically sprints most of this....
James Kassay Bouldering Sleepy Rave V15 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K63oS-9rZI4&feature=channel#)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on January 28, 2010, 03:37:28 am
James Kassidy

Who?
You mean James Kassay...

That's the fella, a bit of late night dyslexia.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 21, 2010, 06:58:36 pm
I did the first ascent since the hold breakage of Manchester Dogs today. Its not changed the grade i don't think,  probably still  V11? :shrug:  but you have to use a heel to do the move to flat hold at top now as you can't get a good enough drop knee in anymore.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on February 21, 2010, 07:05:23 pm
What's snapped and which drop knee?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 21, 2010, 07:08:04 pm
What's snapped and which drop knee?

The jug at the start is now a crimp. When i did it last year i used a drop knee off the start jug to go from right hand side pull up to flat hold at top. Maybe others do it differently...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SamD on February 21, 2010, 07:08:44 pm
I was pipped to the post by adam today, and snagged the second ascent. Having never done it before the hold broke, I really can't compare difficulty with before and after but i would say it probably squeezes in at 8A.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SamD on February 21, 2010, 07:10:14 pm
That said i really have no idea about grades; adam is definitely more qualified to grade it than i am.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on February 21, 2010, 08:28:36 pm
Nice one.  I had a quick play on this last week. 

I have always done the second move with my feet low anyway, so the foot thing does'nt make any odds to me.

Always bigs ups to re-ascending a Higg-piece.  Good effort. :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on February 22, 2010, 12:27:00 am
I knew you'd come out of lurking to tell the world about your ascent Sam. Good effort you pair of beasts.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on February 22, 2010, 08:25:44 pm
at least you got there before CJD upgraded it to 8a+ ;) ;D
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: abarro81 on February 25, 2010, 09:32:58 am
Sounds like it's a FA rather than a repeat but this seemed as good a place as any to put it: Tom Bolger's done 9a in Santa Linya: http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)   :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 25, 2010, 09:43:35 am
Effort. Sounds like he's on amazing form from the blog.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on February 25, 2010, 10:09:04 am
About time brits started ticking some more 9s.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on February 25, 2010, 10:40:49 am
About time brits started ticking some more 9s.

Pull your finger out then  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 25, 2010, 10:50:00 am
That 6 is upside down Fiend.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on February 25, 2010, 12:26:16 pm
Mawson said he was close.amazing!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on February 25, 2010, 02:01:11 pm
Its only a matter of time.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: north_country_boy on February 25, 2010, 04:32:49 pm
Great Effort Tom you beast!!   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on February 25, 2010, 05:16:19 pm
Awesome effort from Tom and a good end to what must have been a frustrating 9a quest - either falling off the last move of various 9a's or having them downgraded by Ramon!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on February 28, 2010, 12:00:02 am
First 8c by Daila Ojeda, Fish eye in Oliana!

http://englishdailaojeda.blogspot.com/ (http://englishdailaojeda.blogspot.com/)

some snazzy pictures
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on February 28, 2010, 11:47:56 am
Therese Johansen has done four 8A's in three days in Chironico!
http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/ (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on February 28, 2010, 07:05:23 pm
Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: lukeyboy on February 28, 2010, 07:59:13 pm
Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
Beast  :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on March 07, 2010, 12:01:05 pm
Mark McQuade made the 3rd ascent of Sanction on Friday.

3rd Scotsman to climb font 8b! Effort!  :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on March 08, 2010, 10:05:55 am
Seems that Ondra has made a super quick (3rd try) ascent of A meurte F9a a few days ago.

http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=8499 (http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=8499)

Cool video of Cédric Lachat sending it there too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on March 09, 2010, 01:37:10 pm
3 tries is wrong, just plain wrong. The word mutant fails to describe this lad.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on March 09, 2010, 01:54:52 pm
The word mutant fails to describe this lad.

How about "Beast!"?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on March 09, 2010, 01:59:17 pm
id put mutant above beast, maybe beastly freak mutant comes closer but thats still not really close is it
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on March 09, 2010, 02:23:30 pm
Mark McQuade made the 3rd ascent of Sanction on Friday.

3rd Scotsman to climb font 8b! Effort!  :great:

Surely thats not right? there have got to be more haven't there?

Malcy
Dave Mac
Alan Cassidy?
Cubby?
Stuart Cameron?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 09, 2010, 02:26:07 pm
Pretty sure Stuart never climbed 8B. Don't think Cubby did despite being capable.  :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on March 09, 2010, 03:00:04 pm
Just thought of another one - Rodma - what was that thing he did in Hueco?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JonI on March 09, 2010, 03:14:02 pm
Hasn't Paul Savage done an 8B at Thirlstane or somewhere?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 09, 2010, 03:24:14 pm
Just thought of another one - Rodma - what was that thing he did in Hueco?

El Techo de los Tres B? 8A/+. If that's the one you're on about that there's a video of on here somewhere.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: iain on March 09, 2010, 03:26:20 pm
There was a thread about Mark's repeat on ScottishClimbs (which appears to have vanished) by Dave Redpath saying it was the third and he's pretty knowledgable about who's done what in Scotland, and Alan C replied to it without saying he'd done 8B and he would normally be open about something like that, (I don't mean boasting although he'd have every right)
I'm fairly sure he's done 8A+ at Dumby.

Rodma's Hueco problem is in the non-quality videos, (for some reason I can't post a link at the mo, page 45)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on March 09, 2010, 03:33:19 pm
If only there'd been a deep fried peanut butter sandwich at the top of La Proue - then he'd be on the list. Dammit, i tried Rodma, I tried...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 09, 2010, 03:44:56 pm
Hasn't Paul Savage done an 8B at Thirlstane or somewhere?

Quote
Paul Sav

Chinese Democracy - Thirlstane - 8a
My Evil Twin - Sandyhills - 8a
Zillion Dollar Sadist - Clifton 8a+

According to Greg's list

http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/ (http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on March 09, 2010, 07:54:06 pm
Pretty sure Mark is the 3rd, there's been a few Scots climbed 8a+ but not 8b, it's not an easy 8b either!!
Beast!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JonI on March 10, 2010, 12:04:15 pm
Cool, thanks for that.  In my haste for historical accuracy I forgot to say well done to Mark... 8b is an awesome achievement!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave k on March 10, 2010, 03:22:16 pm
Pretty sure Stuart never climbed 8B. Don't think Cubby did despite being capable.  :-\

I think it was a Stuart on Pinch 2 on Minus Ten in my first bouldering video (I my still have it , but no video recorder to play it on!) Although it probably had some obscure eliminate rules and only got 8a+ by his sequence and has now undoubtedly been downgraded to 7c+ anyway! Plus he failed on the last move in the video anyway, so he might not have done it.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 10, 2010, 03:35:06 pm
I think you've answered yourself pretty comprehensively there.  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: erm, sam on March 10, 2010, 11:01:34 pm
He did say "a black fly on a rainy day" though, and thats worth more than 8b. Right?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 12, 2010, 08:41:26 am
Cool, thanks for that.  In my haste for historical accuracy I forgot to say well done to Mark... 8b is an awesome achievement!

Forgot too, Good effort loon.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 13, 2010, 06:46:17 pm
Ondra has repeated Golpe de Estado, 9b.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on March 13, 2010, 11:39:51 pm
Some pics and more info of the beast here

http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/ (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)

http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/index.php (http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/index.php)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c3po on March 14, 2010, 08:39:53 am
Adam Lincoln ticked Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell yesterday which I think is worth a mention.

PS. the crag is pretty much completely dry now.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on March 14, 2010, 09:00:07 am
Alright Sean, you still allowed out nowadays?
Sam tickled his traverse a little while back, but I don't think he's been back on it again.  That will be a mental link!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: habrich on March 14, 2010, 09:26:20 am
Some pics and more info of the beast here

http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/ (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)

http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/index.php (http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/index.php)
And: http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=8512 (http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=8512)

Slightly bizarre ... "Today morning Czech Mountaineering Union hold press conference in Prague with a long distance telephone interview with Adam about preparation for climbing of the „Golpe de estado“ 9b. Just couple hours after the press conference he sent the route that was in focus of the questions."
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 14, 2010, 12:09:21 pm
Ondra has repeated Golpe de Estado, 9b.

He reckons hard 9b, after the breaking of a hold.
So, first confirmed repeat of a 9b then.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S5wOozYHe_I/AAAAAAAABMg/BGnWlxPExQ8/s1600/Golpe3.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S5wOi7MzSSI/AAAAAAAABMY/dJLscktfsfQ/s1600/Golpe2.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 14, 2010, 06:33:59 pm
Dan Walker did Unjustified today.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c3po on March 14, 2010, 07:16:23 pm
How do GCW, I got spanked at Woodwell, I dont get out much any more but I live in hope.  Hopefull I'll get some stuff done this summer.  Hows your finger holding out.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on March 14, 2010, 08:11:33 pm
Getting better, so may well see you out and about.
Hope the family is well.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on March 14, 2010, 08:34:16 pm
Dan Walker did Unjustified today.

  :great: Thought he'd send it today, he was tickling the belay yesterday. Now that t-shirt can finally get washed...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on March 14, 2010, 10:12:09 pm
[  :great: Thought he'd send it today, he was tickling the belay yesterday. Now that t-shirt can finally get washed...

Afterwards he was dazed and confused and staggering around the catwalk so alamingly that Ackers had to carry him back to the car and give him the kiss of life - I heard
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on March 15, 2010, 08:16:16 am
That is a well good effort. Bless his cotton socks!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on March 15, 2010, 09:44:18 am
Awesome Dan,who needs 8b+! Straight to 8c like a real man.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on March 15, 2010, 10:18:38 am
Dan Walker did Unjustified today.

 :great: Was awe inspiring to see this, he looked rock solid on it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Turboman on March 15, 2010, 11:07:33 am
Awesome Dan!!  Well impressed.  Might try skipping 8b+ myself.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on March 15, 2010, 03:51:46 pm
Good effort Dan! Get em in early before the usual summer monsoon, very wise!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: John Cooke on March 15, 2010, 09:43:42 pm
Good skills Dan!

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4436595058_16128f1c1e_b.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 16, 2010, 09:43:31 am
Nice one. And a great shot.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: yorkshiregripper on March 16, 2010, 03:09:30 pm
Nice one Dan, im sure your psyched to get that done before heading out here, see you soon.   :pissed:

.......and another good weekend for Tom, another 8c+ and his first 8b flash!  :dance1:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on March 16, 2010, 03:16:37 pm
I see the Joker has had another ascent too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on March 16, 2010, 03:42:39 pm
The Joker gets done fairly often. Are you confusing it with The Ace?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on March 16, 2010, 03:48:54 pm
No, just a nod to willackers.
And I did say "another".
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 17, 2010, 10:32:57 am
Pete Whittaker repeated Jordans French Duke (E9) the other day.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 17, 2010, 11:12:35 am
Adam Lincoln ticked Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell yesterday which I think is worth a mention.

Nice one Tan.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: CBA on March 17, 2010, 12:47:48 pm
Rumour has it that the BLackpool car lifter made the 3rd ascent of Little Women at Kentmere monday just gone. Sterling effort that man... :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on March 17, 2010, 12:50:46 pm
He looked good on it when I was there with him on the 8th.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: CBA on March 17, 2010, 01:10:31 pm
Just hope he doesn't pull any holds off when he hits The County with the Lancs mob this weekend... ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on March 17, 2010, 01:17:07 pm
Just point him at some slopers, then stand back and laugh :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: CBA on March 17, 2010, 01:38:59 pm
Just point him at some slopers, then stand back and laugh :lol:
Nearly made me choke on my cheese toastie. :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on March 17, 2010, 02:53:41 pm
What you saying about the Ladies of Garstang..

ohh slopers
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: CBA on March 17, 2010, 02:58:49 pm
What you saying about the Ladies of Garstang..

ohh slopers
Slopers or slappers,he'd still try to crimp them footless ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: yorkshiregripper on March 17, 2010, 06:44:16 pm
Alan Cassidy did the Rollito Sharma Extention today (8C).  :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: John Cooke on March 17, 2010, 07:21:45 pm
Gigantic at Wilton ground up'd today following a clean on abseil, by the illustrious Mr Lincoln. Best style of this route to date i believe.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: John Cooke on March 17, 2010, 07:22:48 pm
Alan Cassidy did the Rollito Sharma Extention today (8C).  :great:

Effort Alan, Spain's certainly where it's at!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 17, 2010, 08:04:06 pm
Gigantic at Wilton ground up'd today following a clean on abseil, by the illustrious Mr Lincoln. Best style of this route to date i believe.

Effort. Without trying to be a total tw4t, it's a pretty impressive feat to say the least, but how can you ground up a route you have already abseiled down?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 17, 2010, 08:26:28 pm
Gigantic at Wilton ground up'd today following a clean on abseil, by the illustrious Mr Lincoln. Best style of this route to date i believe.

Effort. Without trying to be a total tw4t, it's a pretty impressive feat to say the least, but how can you ground up a route you have already abseiled down?

Well, it is hard to classify the style. The route needed cleaning. I abseiled it. I didn't try any of the moves.
I get your point though.  :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: John Cooke on March 17, 2010, 08:36:57 pm
Gigantic at Wilton ground up'd today following a clean on abseil, by the illustrious Mr Lincoln. Best style of this route to date i believe.

In retrospect, i'm pretty sure ground up involves climbing the route from bottom to top without top rope practice, or abseil inspection?? A very good effort non the less. E8 6c?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on March 17, 2010, 08:39:25 pm
Well done Adam, without getting someone else to clean it for you this is probably the best style in which to attempt the route.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on March 17, 2010, 08:40:00 pm
Nice one Tanners good style whatever, worthy of a wad...



...is there anything on Lancs grit you can't do ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 17, 2010, 08:47:50 pm
...is there anything on Lancs grit you can't do ;)

Errr, possibly something in Denham.  ;) Had a go at is again last night. Can't do the move after i broke it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 17, 2010, 10:04:38 pm
Like I said,not knocking the ascent -  E8 in ANY style is a fantastic achievement, just curious about terminology .
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nike Air on March 17, 2010, 10:38:08 pm
 :great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on March 17, 2010, 10:40:08 pm
You sound like you're keeping busy too, Miss Price.  Is Earl in good nick?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 17, 2010, 10:43:07 pm
:great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....

KP and Josser and all those are getting cleaned next. Lets get to it!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nike Air on March 17, 2010, 10:45:00 pm
You sound like you're keeping busy too, Miss Price.  Is Earl in good nick?
Ticking over thanks.
Its in fine condition as i think the whole of the UK is, but will it last.....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on March 17, 2010, 10:47:31 pm
no  :(
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nike Air on March 17, 2010, 10:49:30 pm
:great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....

KP and Josser and all those are getting cleaned next. Lets get to it!

Sounds good, i ve done Josser which i should have got someone to clean first for sure. KP looks the bomb!! Also Chocolate girl looks a laugh. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on March 17, 2010, 11:34:53 pm
:great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....

KP and Josser and all those are getting cleaned next. Lets get to it!

Nice one Adam - spoke to Pete this eve about your beastliness. Good work! Also psyched to hear some stuff is being cleaned up. I'll be coming up that way very soon as there's a load of things I want to do up there. May see you out sometime...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 17, 2010, 11:39:12 pm
:great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....

KP and Josser and all those are getting cleaned next. Lets get to it!

Nice one Adam - spoke to Pete this eve about your beastliness. Good work! Also psyched to hear some stuff is being cleaned up. I'll be coming up that way very soon as there's a load of things I want to do up there. May see you out sometime...

Cheers. Did he mention my sketching on the E4 bit ;-)
Just say the word, i'll give you a tour. Pete basically did it ground up to, but split a tip after the crux, and fell off.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 18, 2010, 09:14:31 am
Ned's ticklist from Font is worth a mention especially when you consider that it was soaked. Plus 3 8As in a day at Queens........
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2010, 10:40:08 am
Is the queen's stuff recent?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 18, 2010, 10:45:07 am
If you call about a week ago recent, yes!

http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/ (http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2010, 11:13:50 am
Interesting, because you should


Quote
forget queens,it will be one of the coldest darkest places on this earth untill about april/may time :P


Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on March 18, 2010, 11:25:57 am
Miss. Whittaker did Mr. Pitt on Tuesday morning!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cowboyhat on March 18, 2010, 01:59:05 pm
Ned's ticklist from Font is worth a mention especially when you consider that it was soaked. Plus 3 8As in a day at Queens........


Seconded.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 18, 2010, 04:08:59 pm
Ned's ticklist from Font is worth a mention especially when you consider that it was soaked. Plus 3 8As in a day at Queens........
Seconded.

8a+
Gecko
Partage

8a
tigre et dragon         
partenaire particular       
big dragon              
karma             
synapses       
l'aplait du gain    
l'apparemment       
la batard       
le mandarin             
direct du surplomb          
surplomb de la mee               
t-rex assis       
atresie

7c+
supplament d'armes assis       
megalithe       
appartenance assis       
hypothese       
antithese          
control technique

7c
michel-ange                      
control a               
flagrand desir       
appartenance       
vandale             
la gaul          
big boss       
tristesse
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on March 18, 2010, 07:38:17 pm
list becomes more interesting when you read what the order of difficulty actually was for him. shows you just how much people differ
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on March 18, 2010, 07:48:25 pm
That does sound quite interesting, can that list also be viewed by the general public?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 18, 2010, 08:00:18 pm
That does sound quite interesting, can that list also be viewed by the general public?

Only just seen this. Cheers for heads up Dense.
http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/02/font.html (http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/02/font.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on March 18, 2010, 08:49:59 pm
crikey  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on March 18, 2010, 09:08:27 pm
Cheers for the link Tanners.

Crikey indeed.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on March 18, 2010, 11:16:24 pm
Mina did Lou Ferrino today!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: 220bpm on March 19, 2010, 03:14:20 pm
Seconded.

8a+
Gecko
Partage

8a
tigre et dragon         
partenaire particular       
big dragon              
karma             
synapses       
l'aplait du gain    
l'apparemment       
la batard       
le mandarin             
direct du surplomb          
surplomb de la mee               
t-rex assis       
atresie

7c+
supplament d'armes assis       
megalithe       
appartenance assis       
hypothese       
antithese          
control technique

7c
michel-ange                      
control a               
flagrand desir       
appartenance       
vandale             
la gaul          
big boss       
tristesse
[/quote]

Wow, don't hear of many repeats of PP! Cap duly doffed.

What up with La Merveille as well? One of the best lines I've seen yet not climbed by many it seems.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on March 19, 2010, 03:21:08 pm
might that be because it's fugging hard?  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on March 19, 2010, 06:02:51 pm
i got up the mervielle yesterday, admittedly by the 7a slab to the right of it  :P
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on March 19, 2010, 08:49:34 pm
Is that the highball or the groove thing to the left of the dalle du fer which is 7c but looks 6c?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on March 19, 2010, 11:56:15 pm
might that be because it's fugging hard?  ;)

Great line, since the breakage of a hold don't you need to pull on a minging crimp?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 22, 2010, 11:52:58 am
I did the first ascent since the hold breakage of Manchester Dogs today. Its not changed the grade i don't think,  probably still  V11? :shrug:  but you have to use a heel to do the move to flat hold at top now as you can't get a good enough drop knee in anymore.

Finally got round to uploading a pic from this. You can see the jug at the start is now broke. Was a tad green so looks a bit grim, but it is a great problem!

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_SjU9pU0UKRU/S6dZQ22Om9I/AAAAAAAAArg/nJTfL2P3SzE/s1600/138829.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on March 22, 2010, 11:54:21 am
Oh. thats not a crimp with your left hand is it?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 22, 2010, 11:58:49 am
Oh. thats not a crimp with your left hand is it?

You put your heel on the crimp,so have to go from the hold i have my left on.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on March 22, 2010, 11:59:47 am
You look like you need a holiday to top up the tan Adam.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on March 22, 2010, 12:30:37 pm
Harry Fogg did (CJD's?) Dutch Gold in Glendo on saturday in about 3 or 4 go's. Not the biggest number, but 8a's don't get done in Ireland too often. Waddage.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on March 22, 2010, 01:06:09 pm
Cool.  Does he live over there?  If so, he should get on the full deal.  Its fucking cracker jack.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on March 22, 2010, 01:12:37 pm
Yep, he's a home grown mutant  :) Shit, I can't even imagine starting any lower! I'm sure he'll have a look though, he's done almost everything else in the valley.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on March 23, 2010, 03:33:10 pm
8A flash by Natalija Gros  :bow:

Confessions d'un Artiste de Merde

http://philipperibiere.blogspot.com/2010/03/flashed-8a-by-natalija-gros.html (http://philipperibiere.blogspot.com/2010/03/flashed-8a-by-natalija-gros.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on March 23, 2010, 04:24:48 pm
Or Confessions of a Crap Artist (http://www.philipkdick.com/works_novels_confessions.html) for the non French amongst us ;)

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nike Air on March 24, 2010, 04:36:57 pm
Pete Whittaker repeated Jordans French Duke (E9) the other day.

Pete Whittaker climbing French Duke (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRQDAQlbsAw#)Petes ascent
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on March 24, 2010, 08:46:46 pm
That looked at least well quite hard.

PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 24, 2010, 08:54:19 pm
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?

Because?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on March 24, 2010, 08:55:07 pm
"Adam Lincoln" is sooooo last year, dahling.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on March 24, 2010, 09:05:54 pm
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?

Because?

Nike are notoriously litigous.  Any way what about Robert Kilroy Lincoln? :P
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 24, 2010, 09:07:30 pm
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?

Because?

Nike are notoriously litigous.  Any way what about Robert Kilroy Lincoln? :P

Some how, i don't think Nike would waste their time.  :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on March 24, 2010, 09:08:57 pm
Yeah just do it
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on March 24, 2010, 10:33:50 pm
Interesting that he chose to use the tensioned sling instead of all the gear in the slot, why was that??

Impressive stuff, confirms it as a major route.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 24, 2010, 10:41:03 pm
Interesting that he chose to use the tensioned sling instead of all the gear in the slot, why was that??

Quote from Jordan

"He chose to try the sling because he had tested the gear I used on the first ascent (out right, where I originally started FD) and it had exploded spectacularly when he rested on it. Uh-oh! Anyhow, he climbed up and placed his sling and some VERY low cams, down climbed, and then had to sit out a rain shower."
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on March 24, 2010, 11:23:58 pm
Ah right. And that gear looked so bomber in Posing Prod's clip too....

I was thinking it was to avoid getting snagged in the right hand rope.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on March 26, 2010, 12:16:10 am
Some pics of Iker Pou on his repeat of 'Victimas Perez'

(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s300/petzlroc99/victima1.jpg)

(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s300/petzlroc99/victima2.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on March 26, 2010, 12:52:19 am
and he would walk 500 miles, and he would walk 500 more, just to be the man who gets the second ascent of your 9a.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mark s on March 26, 2010, 07:29:06 am
Was expecting a bit of news in this thread about foreigners pissin up stuff in the peak this after the cwif.guess the weather not been brill.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on March 26, 2010, 08:09:58 am
over-caffeinated sugary drink company armband. Nice  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mark s on March 26, 2010, 07:08:29 pm
Jordan on-sighted dangerous croc snogging today.very fine effort.said it was the 2nd best route on grit he'd done.videod it on my phone,will try and post it up with a link.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on March 26, 2010, 07:55:00 pm
That's a great effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on March 26, 2010, 08:00:04 pm
over-caffeinated sugary drink company armband. Nice  :lol:

yeah, give you wings rather than just de-clustering your water molecules...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on March 26, 2010, 08:08:04 pm
what about over-caffeinated sugary drink company in an apacci sleave?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on March 26, 2010, 09:25:50 pm
9a in Tenaya shoes... unbelievable!

As Jez Portman once said "They don't impress me much".
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on March 26, 2010, 10:48:35 pm
9a in Tenaya shoes... unbelievable!

As Jez Portman once said "They don't impress me much" (but I'm still not giving you a discount).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on March 27, 2010, 09:21:54 am
and he would walk 500 miles, and he would walk 500 more, just to be the man who gets the second ascent of your 9a.

Da da da da, Da da da da, dum dum dum didi dum dum dum didi dum dum dum.  :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on March 31, 2010, 08:53:24 am
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/ashima-shiraishi-age-8-power-silence-v10 (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/ashima-shiraishi-age-8-power-silence-v10)


eight year old does power of silence in hueco!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on March 31, 2010, 09:05:25 am
Thats crazy! Good to have something the current generation of proto-UKBers to aim for.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 31, 2010, 09:28:54 am
Fucking hell.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: drdeath on March 31, 2010, 03:37:27 pm
For god's sake get that child on the tabs and booze ASAP...making us all look bad...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 31, 2010, 04:04:24 pm
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/ashima-shiraishi-age-8-power-silence-v10 (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/ashima-shiraishi-age-8-power-silence-v10)


eight year old does power of silence in hueco!

For anyone that doesn't know the problem, it is a very very impressive tick!  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on March 31, 2010, 04:07:21 pm
Tiny hands + no bodyweight + no fear + natural aptitude for monkeying around + lighter internal organs etc etc. The only thing that surprises me about these kids ticking big numbers is that anyone is remotely surprised by it.

Looks like a cool problem.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on March 31, 2010, 04:52:51 pm
The only thing that surprises me about these kids ticking big numbers is that anyone is remotely surprised by it.

The voice of truth or another jaded pundit who needs to recalibrate his awemeter? 

The latter methinks.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2010, 05:09:26 pm
Methinks too. It's a justification that has been used through the ages when someone of young years does something significant.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on March 31, 2010, 05:18:48 pm
I was well impressed, it's not like it's some crimp ladder on small close together holds that would suit someone small, there appears to be a couple of really big moves on it, and a jump to a fingerjam!

power of silence v10 (http://vimeo.com/8370317)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on March 31, 2010, 05:20:05 pm
Fiend has a valid point (within reason), morphology plays a big part in how a problem feels, any problem is a completely different undertaking for someone that size, this is backed up by the fact it makes pulling on impossible  ;)

I hear what Stubbs is saying but she's inside that groove.

Please don't take that to mean I'm not in awe of the things I witness by youths or that video as I am. Its a damn good effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on March 31, 2010, 05:23:36 pm
so nobodys thinks its significantly massively easier if you have tiny hands that can fit into the holds? also that you can use holds that no one else uses?
Its a very good effort but I'm sure it isn't V10 for her.
Who cares anyway?
Whats next, worlds tallest man onsights work hard at curbar by pulling on at the top?
david copperfield flashes mandala by floating up it?

:bitter old man falling apart at the seems:
:old:

damn kids!!!!
I want to be young again
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on March 31, 2010, 05:29:20 pm
Ah shit didn't realise there was a video of her doing it with a completely different sequence now, should have checked that out. Still impressed.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Baron on March 31, 2010, 05:32:50 pm
She's a better climber than the guy in the clip. Get over it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ackbar on March 31, 2010, 05:41:11 pm
That video made no sense at all.  It says "if you are thinking that it was easier because she has smaller hands remember she is only 8".  Well of course.  That is why she has small hands.  Stupid video. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 31, 2010, 05:46:45 pm
What Joe said. Pretty much the most impressive footage I've ever seen.

Quote
+ lighter internal organs

What?

Quote
I hear what Stubbs is saying but she's inside that groove

I was expecting her to bridge up it, but she doesn't. Is it as valid as an a eight stone 'man' doing Voyager?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on March 31, 2010, 05:52:52 pm
Who mentioned validity? I only mentioned morphology, which I think makes a big difference. Maybe as I found the jump hard I should have got a boost up? (this is all flippant before anyone gets wound up).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on March 31, 2010, 06:01:41 pm

I was expecting her to bridge up it, but she doesn't. Is it as valid as an a eight stone 'man' doing Voyager?

oooooh that's a par.

I assumed you only jumped off a beer towel Paul? ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on March 31, 2010, 06:31:18 pm
No as I was in awe of "that Zaff guy" from Stick it at Apparent North,however he did off with my beer towel (accidentally I'm pretty sure).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy B on March 31, 2010, 07:39:23 pm
People look out for (and usually take the standard grade for) problems that suit them all the time. The fact that she's small takes nothing away from her achievement.

Being boosted to the starting holds is just the same as stacking pads to reach them. If they are the holds that everyone else starts from then it seems fair to me.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on March 31, 2010, 08:22:49 pm
Power of Goodbye is very nails for a Hueco V10, when we were there only Liam Halsey and Tyler managed it (both flashed it mind)!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on March 31, 2010, 08:52:59 pm
The voice of truth or another jaded pundit who needs to recalibrate his awemeter? 
Definitely the voice of truth :D
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on March 31, 2010, 08:58:19 pm
Jesus Christ! What a hero! 8! For fucks sake!!! Amazing.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 31, 2010, 09:01:31 pm
Jesus Christ! What a hero! 8! For fucks sake!!! Amazing.

heroine  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on March 31, 2010, 09:13:06 pm
Gender plays no part in my ideology! That was so impressive. How has an 8 year old girl got me psyched!? For climbing before the jokes up.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on March 31, 2010, 09:53:17 pm
People look out for (and usually take the standard grade for) problems that suit them all the time. The fact that she's small takes nothing away from her achievement.

Being boosted to the starting holds is just the same as stacking pads to reach them. If they are the holds that everyone else starts from then it seems fair to me.

Yes but they'd be a nats dick either side of the regular morphology in most cases, if you go down to the 10th or 90th percentiles of a given distribution then you're going to see more of an impact. Do I really need to point out how much morphology effects grades on specific case problems or how almost every grading scale has something that it trips up trying to describe in order to back up my (general) point?

Watch the two videos; completely different moves, same problem same name. Damn good effort regardless, she's 8 and no doubt a wad. However, I feel people are blind if they think Xa or whatever is a representative grade for climbing a piece of rock regardless of any other variables. It just doesn't make sense and its why I think I personally pay a lot less attention to them than I used to.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on March 31, 2010, 10:52:45 pm
Yes but they'd be a nats dick either side of the regular morphology

Nat has a dick  :o

And Nibiles partner has had a sex op

It's all coming out today
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chummer on March 31, 2010, 11:22:31 pm
I thought she was awesome, whatever the grade for her it's still hard, she is still only eight and she fucking went for it.
I can't believe the first thing some folk say after seeing that vid is 'ooh she's got small hands' and 'lighter internal organs' (what the fuck??), 'well it suits her' etc. Fuck a fucking duck. It's a good thing that 'we' on UKB don't tend to jump on media hype and we question things that some might just accept but for fucks sake in this case I think it's way off the mark, the girl did good, full stop. I found it pretty inspiring in fact.
I just hope her fingers last out and she's able to see it through and fulfill her potential.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on March 31, 2010, 11:42:29 pm
I recall watching a Dosage DVD with Chris Sharma doing some problem in the Swiss with Dave Graham & Randy Pruo and he said- Quote ' skip all the bad holds, just take the big ones' this girl did the opposite and it worked for her.....
Problems have grades and sequences, but grades are subjective. If a problem suits you it's piss, if you can find a better sequence for yourself why the fuck not use it?
Well done that lass.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy B on April 01, 2010, 12:01:01 am
Yes but they'd be a nats dick either side of the regular morphology in most cases, if you go down to the 10th or 90th percentiles of a given distribution then you're going to see more of an impact. Do I really need to point out how much morphology effects grades on specific case problems or how almost every grading scale has something that it trips up trying to describe in order to back up my (general) point?

Watch the two videos; completely different moves, same problem same name. Damn good effort regardless, she's 8 and no doubt a wad. However, I feel people are blind if they think Xa or whatever is a representative grade for climbing a piece of rock regardless of any other variables. It just doesn't make sense and its why I think I personally pay a lot less attention to them than I used to.

I think you are underestimating how big a role individual morphology and strengths play in most peoples bouldering. I think it comes significantly into play on the majority of problems for the majority of people, not just the 10th and 90th percentiles.

Watch the two videos; completely different moves, same problem same name.

This would be the same for videos of Parry and me doing most problems, (or many other examples of individuals), that's the nature of bouldering. If the first thing that pops into your head when you see this girls ascent is "yes but..." then that's up to you. I personally think it's fucking impressive, and wish I was good enough to climb that hard at 8 (or 10, or 12, or 14), regardless of how much it suited me.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on April 01, 2010, 12:27:25 am
yes but..." then that's up to you. I personally think it's fucking impressive, and wish I was good enough to climb that hard at 8 (or 10, or 12, or 14), regardless of how much it suited me.

My first thoughts were, that impressive, read the next post, fiends post, and although over the top has something to it. Hence thats exactly what I said. I'm under no illusion of how hard some of the youngsters are climbing. I've witness first hand them crushing routes I'm dreaming of. With ease I'll add.
I think it'd be unfair to suggest I was putting her down in any way. It'd be a bit harsh given she's 8, I'm not that bitter.

I think you are underestimating how big a role individual morphology and strengths play in most peoples bouldering. I think it comes significantly into play on the majority of problems for the majority of people, not just the 10th and 90th percentiles.

Maybe I didn't explain my thought so well, I'm not underestimating how big a role morphology is in any way shape or form. In fact that was my point. You may do moves a different way to Mr Parry or Stu L etc. but they won't be as different as that of a child attempting the same moves as they are the extreme. If you take a cross section of climbers and then look at a factor such as span, kids aren't going to be falling in the middle of the distribution. That'll make some things dead hard, tending towards impossible (i.e. they can't reach the starting holds) and others which are unbelievably cramped, easier. You see it all the time, short people and big people don't find the same things easy. We've already made concessions in bouldering terminology for this with 'Morpho' being stuck in guides, these usually apply to people being tall enough etc. (IMO), however I'm fully of the belief that the reverse can be true.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on April 01, 2010, 12:39:52 am
I currently have two main climbing partners who I climb both indoors, and outdoors with. We all climb at a similar grade, however we all climb everything differently. Fair enough we all have slight different morphologies, but we never climb anything the same. We just have different strengths. I can't crimp or pinch, one of my mates can crimp the fuck out of anything, and frog like a bastard, and the other mate can pinch like no-one I have ever seen.

We have our strengths and we play to them. This 8 year old girl has a few strengths, and she plays to them. She won't be able to reach between the holds on Amandla, so she's not going to do that, but neither will I, so I'm not going to try it either.

As a side note, do any lanky bastards ever take reduced grades for Deliverance, or Submergence? Do they fuck!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on April 01, 2010, 12:59:37 am
I'm unwilling to converse with anyone any longer who doesn't have at least an A Level module in biomechanics on the issue of anthropometrics.

As a side note, do any lanky bastards ever take reduced grades for Deliverance, or Submergence? Do they fuck!

Similarly, at 6 ft 2.5 in I find problems such as Magic Bus, Screaming Slave etc etc rather more difficult than the holds and positions present to my ability. If you're 1 ft off the ground, there's no room to deliberately sag to get toe hooks in or whatnot.  I digress sorry....

In this instance, let's not forget that most of us at age 8 probably struggled to lift a one litre bottle of lemonade off the deck. Props to this girl!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on April 01, 2010, 01:02:14 am
In this instance, let's not forget that most of us at age 8 probably struggled to lift a one litre bottle of lemonade off the deck. Props to this girl!

Word.

The morphology thing could be discussed elsewhere but to do that I think I'd have to be more bothered than I am.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: clm on April 01, 2010, 02:30:09 am
paul. On another thread you are describing yourself as 50kg to 56kg. Im guessing theres not many others on here at that weight. (and thats coming from me with a reputation as a skinny fucker). I hope you havnt claimed full fat grades for everything you have climbed. I bet there are heavier 8 year olds in tne world.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on April 01, 2010, 02:45:31 am
Like I said, the more I climb the less I understand about grades.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on April 01, 2010, 09:01:41 am
You may do moves a different way to Mr Parry or Stu L etc. but they won't be as different as that of a child attempting the same moves as they are the extreme.

He's got a point here. That 8 year old would probably be able to lank past moves that Stu has to do.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on April 03, 2010, 09:08:03 am
Get a life you picky fuckers.  Well done that chick.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on April 03, 2010, 09:35:26 am
Quite incredible really. She even does that 1st move footles. I must admit I was struggling to think how someone so small would do the moves (this is a hard problem, i thought more 8a) and then she uses the most henious sequence. Those holds she uses are proper tiny and I would suggest far harder than the original. That gaston everyone else uses is very intermediate style, more of a Gaskins style hold. Very reminiscent of Ruth Jenkinson who had todo 2/3 moves for the normal persons 1 on all sorts of stuff like Caviar and Zeke.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy B on April 03, 2010, 10:38:53 am
... Very reminiscent of Ruth Jenkinson...

Jenkinson or Jenkins?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on April 03, 2010, 05:10:45 pm
oops. Jenkins of course.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 06, 2010, 05:22:52 pm
Another 9a for Tom Bolger. Open your mind - 9a.
Sounds like the 9a+ version is on as well.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on April 06, 2010, 05:39:28 pm
Sounds like Tom has been on fire recently, metaphorically speaking of course!!

Also saw that Mary Jenner has repeated Bleed in Hell E8 6c which puts her in a very exclusive club of female E8'ers, certainly in the UK.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 06, 2010, 06:13:02 pm
Oh and Jonny Stocking (16 or 17?) is out there also. He climbed Rolito Sharma @ 8b+.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on April 06, 2010, 06:33:00 pm
Quote
Power of Goodbye is very nails for a Hueco V10

I daresay it is as it is a 8b in Austria.  Get it right Doylo. :spank:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on April 06, 2010, 07:18:49 pm
Ooops!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Will Hunt on April 07, 2010, 07:15:58 pm
Who's in Chorro at the moment? Word in The Cave (Poema) is that a Brit repeated Orujo recently.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 07, 2010, 07:22:59 pm
Who's in Chorro at the moment? Word in The Cave (Poema) is that a Brit repeated Orujo recently.


Simpson was out there, but don't think he did that...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 07, 2010, 08:19:53 pm
I know Meatball is out there and quite psyched from all that cave hustling/green tea drinking  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatdoc on April 07, 2010, 10:43:17 pm
Who's in Chorro at the moment? Word in The Cave (Poema) is that a Brit repeated Orujo recently.


Simpson was out there, but don't think he did that...

The Boxxer is back??

Or have I missed something?

Good to see the characters back on the scene..

makes an armchair pundit intrigued ..

BTW, that 8 yr old... simply totally awesome!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on April 08, 2010, 02:04:41 am
Maja Vidmar has onsighted Humildes pa casa in Oliana and has apparently said it to be 8b+!! Impressive given that its graded 8c.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Cassidy on April 08, 2010, 08:04:31 am
Very impressive indeed, but it is widely considered as 8b+ to the Spanish and has been for a while since the old harder start was debolted.  Either way this is an amazing send.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on April 08, 2010, 12:50:25 pm
Very impressive indeed, but it is widely considered as 8b+ to the Spanish and has been for a while since the old harder start was debolted.  Either way this is an amazing send.

Don't tell Mawson that!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stu Littlefair on April 09, 2010, 02:38:11 pm
Al - which start does this show, old or new?

Humildes Pas Casa (http://vimeo.com/2531914)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on April 09, 2010, 07:28:18 pm
ukbouldering.com ...................
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Cassidy on April 09, 2010, 07:50:47 pm
Thats the old start. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on April 12, 2010, 10:41:51 am
Just got a text from Nige K: “Onsighted Master’s Edge yesterday evening, finished up Great Arete. Alright! Well psyched”
Top effort monster! Deserves a shout on this thread I reckon. Especially as it comes on top of a run of good form with at least thirteen grit E6s or harder groundup I can think of, mostly OS or flash including a flash of Marrowbone Jelly, One Chromosome’s Missing and Cornelius in about four goes.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on April 12, 2010, 10:47:10 am
Good effort!, finishing up Great Arete must have been exciting! :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on April 12, 2010, 10:48:18 am
ledge end.

Does E7 to a ledge into an E5 add up to a berry-style E8?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 12, 2010, 10:51:07 am
'Twas impressive - no hesitation whatsoever. Due to top-ropers confusing tickmarks he also ended up not finding 'the crimp' and did 'the move' off some shit intermediate.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 12, 2010, 11:44:27 am
what a legend! good effort nige. is this the route's first proper one-go, pull on and climb it onsight? (can of worms.....sorry....)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on April 12, 2010, 12:59:37 pm
Nice one nige! Like the Great Arete finish for the true summit experience  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nigel on April 12, 2010, 09:18:27 pm
Cheers guys, I am chuffed to bits.

what a legend! good effort nige. is this the route's first proper one-go, pull on and climb it onsight? (can of worms.....sorry....)

I wondered about that too, but I think Alex Honnold did the same last year, he is certainly reported to have done so. For me the most impressive effort on this route is Caff reversing it all, especially given he's short. Legend.

To the headpointers: please can you brush off your tickmarks afterwards, they look a mess. Especially the ones on the wrong holds!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on April 12, 2010, 09:24:57 pm
Nige, if I was into trad you would be my new hero.
For now you're on the maybe pile.
Well done BEAST!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nigel on April 12, 2010, 10:20:31 pm
Jim, if I was into canoeing, you would be my new hero.  :kiss2:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Greg C on April 12, 2010, 10:43:21 pm
Nice one Kershmore, max kudos.  :great:

Glad to see someone from our neck of the woods doing some proper climbing, Karl Lunt would be proud.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 13, 2010, 03:58:15 pm
That is a great effort indeed.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on April 13, 2010, 07:15:07 pm
A mate said he'd witnessed this feat of wadliness alright. Massive respect!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on April 13, 2010, 07:23:43 pm
Nice one Hawthorno :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on April 13, 2010, 09:05:34 pm
Nice one Nige. Glad you got it done - was a lovely cool breeze coming down in the eve, so hope you enjoyed it! Pete will be pleased you didn't get to mash his cam either...  ;)

Have a good week this week as weather looks good and I'm sure the crushage will continue.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on April 14, 2010, 10:52:54 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_atJ3PTcyKY8/S8ThxSrmGCI/AAAAAAAADVw/txTKInSPUKg/s640/IMG_0170.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on April 14, 2010, 10:56:10 am
Very very impressive Nige.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 14, 2010, 11:02:09 am
it's world class really.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 14, 2010, 11:03:38 am
He's just soooo talented.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 14, 2010, 11:12:05 am
man, what i'd give to just hug him for like 5 seconds...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Peanuts on April 14, 2010, 11:21:49 am
Hardly worth mentioning really but Steve (the Claw) repeated Ru's 'Seraphim' yesterday after serveral .... er .... minutes of effort. He warmed down on a damp and dripping Mecca  but that's 'really' not worth mentioning unless he was wearing a blindfold and rollerskates  8)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatdoc on April 14, 2010, 09:34:32 pm
astounding.

is the peg belay at the top of masters still there?

would have been a useful runner??

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nigel on April 15, 2010, 09:18:58 am
astounding.

is the peg belay at the top of masters still there?

would have been a useful runner??

Yes the peg belay is still there, I extended it to the edge with a long sling to reduce drag. In that photo it is clipped (blue rope) its just hard to tell.

Chillax, who's is the pic? Brian's? I remember him being there.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on April 15, 2010, 09:28:51 am
T'was on my mate Neal's blog http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/ (http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/). I believe he'd been out tradding that day with a Brian (aka Smacks?) who I don't know.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on April 15, 2010, 09:43:52 am
Hardly worth mentioning really but Steve (the Claw) repeated Ru's 'Seraphim' yesterday after serveral .... er .... minutes of effort.

He's tried it before he said, but I think maybe only a couple of tries.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Peanuts on April 15, 2010, 10:25:29 am
Hi Ru,

My previous post may have been misinterpreted, dismissing Seraphim as  'easy'. Ha! nothing could be further from the truth, Steve said that he had tried to onsight it last year and failed (which considering how well he was climbing and how the style of climbing is just up his street, says something alone). He even had the good grace to puff and pant a bit on the ascent, something that there was no evidence of on his subsequent ascent of a dripping Mecca :bow:

Just good to see it getting some attention.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on April 15, 2010, 01:50:45 pm
I have no doubt that Steve crushed it with relative ease. And in the grand scheme of things it is easy - what is it, 5 grades below his current best? No, don't worry about how your post sounded, I'm just glad that he didn't tear the holds off as he climbed it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on April 15, 2010, 02:19:33 pm
Had anyone seen these before:

ClimbTech Co-Founder Falls 50ft Using ClimbTech Removable Bolt (http://vimeo.com/10674868)

the ultimate shothole protection perhaps?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on April 15, 2010, 02:49:09 pm
the ultimate shothole protection perhaps?

I dunno, I've never found anything that beats a good old fashioned tricam
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on April 15, 2010, 02:59:49 pm
Yes, but tricams are a pain in the arse to get out, I always curse my mate when I see him putting one in on lead.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on April 15, 2010, 03:54:49 pm
Gaz Parry just did the Big Issue.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on April 15, 2010, 04:15:30 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on April 15, 2010, 06:52:08 pm
Waddage! Doesn't seem to get much attention.

I must admit at first I read it as The Big Bang. I got stupidly excited. Still, a stupendously impressive tick!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on April 15, 2010, 10:13:08 pm
Hex lengthways with cord/wire upwards as any fule kno.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chappers on April 16, 2010, 06:35:49 pm
Just got a text from Adam Jeewooth, Zoe Ogden just climbed raindogs. When I'm back after the weekend, ill post a pic from a redpoint which she bailed on yesterday. Nice one Zoe (should have done it yesterday!!)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: theusualsuspect on April 16, 2010, 09:03:28 pm
T'was on my mate Neal's blog http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/ (http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/). I believe he'd been out tradding that day with a Brian (aka Smacks?) who I don't know.

Since I noticed the big spike in traffic to the blog from this post (nothing like having 50 extra visitors in a day!), I may as well confirm that I was the guy  climbing with Brian (known as Smacks to all the Irish  :)  ). Crap quality of pic, but gave a good impression of the line. Nice effort by the way Nige, you were topping out when we left so didn't get to pass on congrats.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on April 16, 2010, 09:11:23 pm
I noticed the big spike in traffic to the blog from this post

Should I start charging for PR?  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on April 17, 2010, 08:12:30 pm
Gabriele Moroni has just done Action Directe!  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nibile on April 18, 2010, 08:15:04 am
yes! i'm very pleased! gabri is a nice guy, and it's a shame the italian federation doesn't support him much!!!
to give an idea, i had asked him some info about a video, and yesterday he replied "excuse me for the video, i am in the jura, i have just done AD and am a bit shocked still so i can't help you with the vid right now"
legend. he's going to party hard now.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chappers on April 18, 2010, 05:03:00 pm
Zoe Ogden on raindogs:
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j272/the_third_eye/IMG_0028.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on April 19, 2010, 03:57:15 pm
Another F9a from Iker Pou, 2nd ascent of 'Il Domani' in Baltzola, Spain.

Respect!

http://pouanaiak.com/cms/index.php/en/noticias (http://pouanaiak.com/cms/index.php/en/noticias)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on April 19, 2010, 05:41:46 pm
Word has reached me that balding Xtreme sport mentalist and ADHD sufferer Paul Reeve has done Unjustified  :o

I've been summoned to the Foundry to prostrate myself before his magnificence

(Someone downgrade it please)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on April 19, 2010, 05:44:43 pm
You're on the pulse  ;)

(Check a page or so back)

Effort by Mr Tenacity.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GraemeA on April 19, 2010, 05:47:43 pm
Anyone mentioned David Lama doing Partheon Shot? If not why not
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 19, 2010, 05:54:13 pm
First I've heard. Was it ground-up?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GraemeA on April 19, 2010, 06:00:37 pm
First I've heard. Was it ground-up?

Don't know but it looks as if they have some excellent footage of it using the helicam thing http://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/basecamp-news (http://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/basecamp-news)

Check out the 2nd shot of someone standing at the top of Masters.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 19, 2010, 06:08:59 pm
So it was them who covered it in chalk. That camera is neat though.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on April 19, 2010, 06:12:06 pm
So it was them who covered it in chalk. That camera is neat though.

Is all of that boom like footage done with the helicam? If so, its damn smooth!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 19, 2010, 06:14:42 pm
You can see the shadow in a couple of shots.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on April 19, 2010, 06:16:27 pm
Mammut don't make brushes then, I take it?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on April 19, 2010, 06:30:08 pm
tuther side has picked this up too. And the same deal with Careless Torque last week. Dunno if they did that one but they certainly ticked it to f*ck.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on April 19, 2010, 06:44:49 pm
Shall we have them all killed?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 19, 2010, 06:48:28 pm
Lama's style on Parthian will decide. Ground-up, they live. Headpoint, they die.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on April 19, 2010, 06:54:13 pm
Nah, let's have them all killed anyway. On a more serious note, if this graffiti really was down to the Mammut guys, the brand needs to know that is is totally unacceptable. We could do that before we kill them.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on April 19, 2010, 09:41:35 pm
Word has reached me that balding Xtreme sport mentalist and ADHD sufferer Paul Reeve has done Unjustified  :o

I've been summoned to the Foundry to prostrate myself before his magnificence

(Someone downgrade it please)

Nice one Paul!  :bow:

Has he still got that cows udder hanging off his elbow as well?  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on April 19, 2010, 09:46:00 pm
First I've heard. Was it ground-up?

Don't know but it looks as if they have some excellent footage of it using the helicam thing http://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/basecamp-news (http://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/basecamp-news)

Check out the 2nd shot of someone standing at the top of Masters.

That footage is amazing!

Can't wait to see the full film!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on April 19, 2010, 10:18:20 pm
Some uber talented wad ticking easy routes on the grit. Hardly newsworthey and not all that impressive. Now Paul Reeve climbing 8c that is seriously impressive and I suspect something a lot would have laughed at thought of for even suggesting in years past. A fantastic effort from the 2nd most motivated climber in the UK (next to Keith S), certainly more impressive than Ste Mac climbing another 9a.

Congratulatipns Paul :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on April 19, 2010, 10:42:54 pm
Lama's style on Parthian will decide. Ground-up, they live. Headpoint, they die.

Pretty impressive if he did parthian with cataracts though, which from the video appears to be the case.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stu Littlefair on April 20, 2010, 12:09:38 am
Has he still got that cows udder hanging off his elbow as well?  :lol:

Yep. It's even turned purple now. Tenacity with a capital T.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on April 20, 2010, 08:43:06 am
Has he still got that cows udder hanging off his elbow as well?  :lol:

Yep. It's even turned purple now. Tenacity with a capital T.

Legend, Dr says rest, Paul climbs 8c!  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 20, 2010, 10:23:44 am
Some uber talented wad ticking easy routes on the grit. Hardly newsworthey and not all that impressive. Now Paul Reeve climbing 8c that is seriously impressive and I suspect something a lot would have laughed at thought of for even suggesting in years past. A fantastic effort from the 2nd most motivated climber in the UK (next to Keith S), certainly more impressive than Ste Mac climbing another 9a.

Congratulatipns Paul :great:

You're not kidding. Amazing stuff!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on April 22, 2010, 11:03:08 am
Not significant in the grand scheme of bouldering, but Southern Sandstones hardest problem problem Don't Pierdol down at High Rocks has been repeated by a fella called Maciek Badower from Poland. He has also taken it at 8a+ so is the areas hardest.

There is a video of the ascent on youtube if anyone is wants a buchers. And shock horror he only went and used chalk- the bastard!

*edit* Stuck the vid on non quality.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 22, 2010, 11:47:12 am
Last time I worked at The Castle it was chock-full of Polish mutants. Surprised they haven't made the Southern sczcsandstone their own sooner.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 22, 2010, 04:24:58 pm
Karin Magog has done Bleed in Hell, Hell's Wall. Awesome.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 22, 2010, 04:26:49 pm
Anyone know if Braille Trail has been climbed ground up before? If not, it has now.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 22, 2010, 04:27:54 pm
Say hi to Chris and Daila will you?

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on April 22, 2010, 04:31:43 pm
Too many details JB, I've got information overload.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 22, 2010, 04:36:53 pm
He's been taking news reporting lessons from Mr Lincoln.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on April 22, 2010, 04:41:21 pm
I can't imagine Tanners missing a name drop opportunity... :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 22, 2010, 04:44:17 pm
Nalle just asked me who's ground-upped Braille Trail?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 22, 2010, 04:50:30 pm
Ok, Dave Graham just told me he's guessing it's man of the moment Neil 'Nigel/Golden Feet' Kershaw.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 22, 2010, 04:53:36 pm
That would have been my guess too. Tell Dave nice one from me.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on April 22, 2010, 04:55:02 pm
Was it with or without pre-placed Mammut visiting-euro-wad-donkey-linestm?

Nice one Probably Nige.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 22, 2010, 04:56:12 pm
Steady on, just don't want to make out something brilliant has happened when it hasn't...

UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10644) says it has, what do you reckon?

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/lookatmedaila.jpg)

You can talk Cofe - 'Hey Check me out Daila! I'm standing in for Chris!'

Dani, Nico and Toni all say 'Hi' by the way. They're all keen to come back, and are appalled by Team Mammut's failings.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 22, 2010, 04:57:47 pm
Was it with or without pre-placed Mammut visiting-euro-wad-donkey-linestm?

in the wrong place again? adds a grade. yeah nice one probably Nige.

the back of my head and shoulders are truly beautiful.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on April 22, 2010, 05:00:10 pm
Is that a mini-Cofe in the bottom left or have you got really hairy fists?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on April 22, 2010, 05:02:35 pm
LOL @ the lot of you!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 22, 2010, 05:05:24 pm
WH0o0 could it have been?

fishy fishy fish (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CK0cUv3ba-o#)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on April 22, 2010, 05:09:29 pm
looking at them, my shoulders are great actually.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on April 22, 2010, 05:38:54 pm
What about your shit tuba?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on April 22, 2010, 05:51:04 pm
johnny flashed it but he's being shy. cloisters soon
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on April 22, 2010, 05:57:05 pm
Steady on, just don't want to make out something brilliant has happened when it hasn't...

UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10644) says it has, what do you reckon?


Its bogus. Check the entry for Partheon Shot. 'Hidden' also managed to solo and onsight that on the 11th April too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on April 22, 2010, 06:04:53 pm
not seen scott for ages, wonder how he's doing now? word has it he's been partying, but when asked no one was there
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 22, 2010, 06:05:50 pm
Quote
Its bogus. Check the entry for Partheon Shot

Well spotted. I see they did Equilibrium too, plus every other route on the crag. A good day!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on April 23, 2010, 10:38:20 pm
was it a friday?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on April 25, 2010, 02:53:43 pm
Mina just did Pump up the Power at the Tor.  1st female ascent I think? One session and then first go today!  Beast
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on April 25, 2010, 03:39:25 pm
 :bow: beast indeed, props to Mina!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 25, 2010, 06:50:37 pm
Fine effort! Did she bother tying on for the top?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 25, 2010, 08:01:10 pm
She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on April 25, 2010, 09:29:01 pm
Fantastic effort!  :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on April 25, 2010, 10:30:09 pm
She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.

It was impressive.

Thinking about it, I think Patta used to pinch the intermediate in preference to the other hold.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on April 26, 2010, 07:38:51 am
Well good effort indeed!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on April 26, 2010, 09:38:13 am
She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.

you being at the tor AND knowing the sequence on PUTP is more dismaying.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 26, 2010, 09:58:41 am
I didn't beforehand, but luckily someone was on hand to translate.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy Harris on April 27, 2010, 11:43:53 am
Fantastic effort Mina, an historic tick and a hard one to boot. You should check out Culloden it's very similar and really quite a good boulder problem route.

Patter did indeed do it off this hold but remember the hold above (the better one) didn't used to be better. You could only do a  2 finger crimp on the spike as a gaston. Something fell off making it a bigger meaning you can now use 4 fingers and a thumb on the spike. So i suspect it's just a case of strengths and weaknesses.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on April 27, 2010, 01:50:34 pm
Big Stevie H has repeated Hugh:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53125 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53125)

details on the other channel. Maybe Omar should be listening to big Steve and not us.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c3po on April 28, 2010, 09:59:58 am
I think Hugh is shown in this compilation 5.15 rouhling compilation (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9oj_Jdc9x8#)

Awesome tick, even if this was one of the young rock stars, I wounder what level he'll be climbing when he's 60 :bow:.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on April 28, 2010, 11:28:45 am
Rouhling is a beast, need to see more videos of him, the bonus footage at the end of First Ascent(?) looks so sick hard it should come with a health warning.

Stevie is a beast too, strength to strength.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 28, 2010, 12:03:31 pm
Hat's off to Stevie. Fucking amazing.

Completely agree re FR too Fiend. The word monster was designed for him.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Teaboy on April 28, 2010, 12:10:58 pm
I thought the thing with Hugh was that it was a series of massive dynos and it was said at the time that you needed to be FR size to do the route. Regardless this is pretty awesome
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on April 28, 2010, 12:11:29 pm
Video of repeat here (http://www.tvmountain.com/index.php?option=com_hwdvideoshare&task=viewvideo&Itemid=129&video_id=647).


Quote from: Fred Rouhling in Grimper 43
The first roof:
Five moves lead to a reach-through from two sloping edges, either footless or with a really high Egyptian. I chose to do it footless and for the first 10 days failed because it was too hot. I reckon this is the hardest section, about 8a boulder.

The dyno:
The move that made the route famous, because it’s spectacular: a complete cut-loose dyno to a hold about two meters higher. It’s difficult mentally and requires good coordination, but easy compared to the previous move. I reckon 7a+ boulder.

The dyno from the monodoigt:
The other hard move: dyno from a left-foot smear and first joint rounded monodoigt to a rounded hold. 8a boulder.

The final roof:
Eight easy moves compared to the rest of the route, but you’re very tired at this point. I told myself that it was impossible to fall from these last moves. This wasn’t the case.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on April 28, 2010, 12:19:02 pm
I thought the thing with Hugh was that it was a series of massive dynos and it was said at the time that you needed to be FR size to do the route.

FR is about 5'9.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on April 28, 2010, 12:22:50 pm

FR is about 5'9.

Word. The article that did a lot to dispell the myths about him http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/fredrouhling/index.html (http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/fredrouhling/index.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 28, 2010, 12:38:49 pm
Video of repeat here (http://www.tvmountain.com/index.php?option=com_hwdvideoshare&task=viewvideo&Itemid=129&video_id=647).




Stunning route.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on April 28, 2010, 12:44:31 pm
That looks well Chevy Nova.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Plattsy on April 28, 2010, 12:56:27 pm
Pardon my ignorance. Is Hugh artificial?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on April 28, 2010, 12:57:45 pm
Patter did indeed do it off this hold but remember the hold above (the better one) didn't used to be better. You could only do a  2 finger crimp on the spike as a gaston. Something fell off making it a bigger meaning you can now use 4 fingers and a thumb on the spike.

When I first did PUTP a long time ago I did it crimping the spike as a gaston as you describe - since doing it again I could never work out why I used that sequence so it makes sense that something has changed a bit.

Pardon my ignorance. Is Hugh artificial?

I think some of it is.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on April 28, 2010, 01:01:25 pm
Quote
When Rouhling returned from college in 1993 he was sick of the technical endurance style that had made French sport climbing famous. Tired of using his feet, he sought out — or created — routes at Eaux Claires that didn’t require them. The first was Hugh, a sixty-foot double-overhanging bulge (with the graffito “HUG” painted in four-foot-tall letters at its base). After his first ascent he felt that he had made the route too easy, so he filled in some holds, made others worse, and then climbed the route again, resulting in some incredible dynamic moves — and his most heavy-handed manufacturing job. He rated Hugh 9a (5.14d), at a time when there were two or three other 9a’s in the world.

from the above article.

Oh and I forgot to say chapeau to Stevie, would love to see a vid of his ascent, but I guess it's unlikely he had a camera crew in tow.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Plattsy on April 28, 2010, 01:08:07 pm
Merci and yup props to Stevie.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on April 28, 2010, 06:21:06 pm
Oh and I forgot to say chapeau to Stevie, would love to see a vid of his ascent, but I guess it's unlikely he had a camera crew in tow.

The shot of him over on UKC looked like a screengrab to me, so who knows?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on May 07, 2010, 11:02:52 am
Therese Johansen has done another 8A+, thats eight 8A and harder so far in 2010.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2010, 11:43:45 am
hard to tell from pics, but potential DFBWGC too

(http://www.8a.nu/images/gallery/8773_633926909555312500.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2010, 01:59:36 pm
Unless you missed it on Dave Mac's blog, Dave Redpath has ticked Devastation Generation (8c) 14 years after bolting it.

http://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/06/devastation-generation/ (http://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/06/devastation-generation/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on May 07, 2010, 04:00:45 pm
8c in socks. Keeping it scottish stylee 8)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2010, 04:46:55 pm
Maybe Fiend started something when he move up?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Teaboy on May 08, 2010, 08:34:58 pm
Having finally run out of eliminates on Pinches Wall and traverses to link up Ru has been forced to try something different at the Tor and, today, sent Keen Roof. Good effort Mr Davies.

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on May 09, 2010, 08:25:20 pm
Isaac Caldiero has done the 3rd ascent of the super highball, Ambrosia

Ambrosia V11 Mega highball (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM2Kg_YQeMY&feature=player_embedded#ws)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on May 10, 2010, 09:21:27 am
Matt Birch did High Fidelity yesterday. A pretty warm afternoon at Caley but the gentle breeze meant conditions were ok. Great effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TonyS on May 10, 2010, 10:53:38 am
Matt Birch did High Fidelity yesterday.

Good to see Matt still pulling hard.

Fantastic effort, good job!!!

T
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on May 10, 2010, 11:58:22 am
He always does.

He was also really close to getting the FA of that new super hard Paul Robinson problem (SDS to Rastaman Vibration) at an earth-shattering Font8C+!! He had to leave his trip early due to problems with his flight and Paul came and got the FA. A true world class climber from Blighty
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Duma on May 13, 2010, 02:22:42 pm
The Swede of all knowledge reports Dai has repeated The Story Of Two Worlds. Fairly significant I'd say.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on May 13, 2010, 08:54:08 pm
Awesome effort that. Be good to hear what Dai has to say about it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 17, 2010, 02:01:56 pm
13 year old Randy roby climbed raindogs other day. He should have done it while he was still 12. Youngest 8a ascent in uk?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ian dunn on May 18, 2010, 10:27:38 am
.
13 year old Randy roby climbed raindogs other day. He should have done it while he was still 12. Youngest 8a ascent in uk?

Yes Adam, Randy is only just 13 did it 31 days after his birthday. Does anyone know the youngest ascent of an 8a by a Brit? Definitely is the youngest ascent of Raindogs, as the previous was Shauna Coxsey who did it when she was 15 i think. Kitty Wallace and Leah Crane climbed 8a abroad when they were 14 too I seem to remember.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2010, 10:48:48 am
Good effort Randy!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on May 18, 2010, 03:21:08 pm
UKC are reporting Birkett has done 3rd ascent of Walk of Life. Not much more info yet.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on May 18, 2010, 09:41:27 pm
My guess would be that he didn't find it a total path as he was down there a couple of weeks before that, so might have actually taken him a couple of sessions!  :o

Good work the man with scary biceps.

Coincidentally, Toru the Japanese beast was also down that way recently at the BMC meet. I think he was on pretty fine form, although nothing rediculous as far as I know. Some great photos on Alex Ekins's photo gallery if you want to check out some really inspiring pics of Cornish granite.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: granticus on May 18, 2010, 11:12:02 pm
Quote
Coincidentally, Toru the Japanese beast was also down that way recently at the BMC meet. I think he was on pretty fine form, although nothing ridiculous as far as I know. Some great photos on Alex Ekins's photo gallery if you want to check out some really inspiring pics of Cornish granite.

Was at Sennen on Friday with some pals as it was the only dry place in the South West, shared the place with assorted wads from the International Meet.  Some very impressive ascents going down left right and centre.  At the end of the day when things had calmed down and cooled down, Toru top roped a protectionless arete a couple of times.  He then pulled his rope and climbed the route smoothly and calmly.  I have no idea what the route is and it could've been a first ascent, it is certainly a very serious route.  No photos in Alex's gallery of this route but there was a photographer there snapping the ascent.  Perhaps, a news item and unveiling will follow or maybe it wasn't that significant.  However, the photographer was very keen to point out that we were about to witness something special (which is certainly was).  So can anyone spill the beans or have I just done so? 



Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on May 19, 2010, 02:31:50 am
Ah ok - I think that was a repeat of an E6 6a. Details are on the BMC website I believe. Looking forward to seeing a mag article or two...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on May 19, 2010, 09:08:32 am
Actually, I think Dave Pickford said Toru did a new route (shoukld have listened better).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on May 19, 2010, 09:17:59 am
Question Mark? Mark Edward's E9 (downgraded to E8 by Palmer) arete? Maybe not looking at this:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=3686 (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=3686)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2010, 09:28:12 am
Isn't Question Mark at Cribba Head?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: jstrongman on May 19, 2010, 09:33:14 am
The route Toru soloed at Sennen was "Hell hath no fear" E7 6c its the rounded arete below and to the right, of the Gillian and Golva wall.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on May 19, 2010, 11:17:00 am
Natalia Gros did Beaux Quartiers recently!

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_I83lC4-LI/AAAAAAAABTw/aRPzBHNRMnA/s1600/lesbeauxquartiers.jpg (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_I83lC4-LI/AAAAAAAABTw/aRPzBHNRMnA/s1600/lesbeauxquartiers.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: granticus on May 19, 2010, 12:33:12 pm
Quote
The route Toru soloed at Sennen was "Hell hath no fear" E7 6c its the rounded arete below and to the right, of the Gillian and Golva wall.

Yep! That's sounds like the one  :great:  It was my first visit to Sennen and I don't generally trad climb so much, so not very familiar with route names etc.. but can safely say it is a brilliant venue at any grade.  Wonderful to see someone repeat such a serious route and to reassuring to hear Toru's verdict..... 'F**king scarey!' 

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2010, 02:16:28 pm
It was my first visit to Sennen and I don't generally trad climb so much

Even if you don't trad climb much you should be puntered for that! Top spot. Nice swell magnet (but often crowded because of it)next door.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: granticus on May 19, 2010, 05:49:24 pm
Quote
Even if you don't trad climb much you should be puntered for that! Top spot. Nice swell magnet (but often crowded because of it)next door.

I meant the crag Sennen, have of course surfed there and at t'other end where there is also some nice bouldering.  If there are no waves here you can pretty much guarantee the rest of the south west is gonna be fffffffffffllllllaaaaatttt.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2010, 01:17:04 pm
Vague details of IF soloed (apparently) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53473)  :-\  :spank: Must be a slow news week.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on May 20, 2010, 02:51:14 pm
More details on the other channel of Dave Birketts repeat of WoL.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53538 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53538)

Dave was very complimentary...

"When everything settles down as regards the grade and the hype that surrounds it, it will be heralded as a modern extreme classic of the 21st Century"

He agreed with Dave Mac on the grade if anyone cares.  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tomtom on May 20, 2010, 03:58:51 pm
Vague details of IF soloed (apparently) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53473)  :-\  :spank: Must be a slow news week.

The thread on t'other channel is causing UKC alot of flak  ;D many posts of shit journalism etc...

EVEN, Sloper has been blamed for the (possible/probably) hoax!  :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on May 20, 2010, 04:30:42 pm
"its hard to take photographs of yourself without falling off"
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on May 20, 2010, 07:24:22 pm
3 vaguely dismissive posts of UKC's farce story is about all it deserves.

On the plus side, good interview with Dave Birkett, I particularly like that he was sitting on a bed of moss at the time - now that's a nice touch.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on May 23, 2010, 10:55:17 am
Vague details of IF soloed (apparently) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53473)  :-\  :spank: Must be a slow news week.

The thread on t'other channel is causing UKC alot of flak  ;D many posts of shit journalism etc...

EVEN, Sloper has been blamed for the (possible/probably) hoax!  :-\

I'm genuinely offended by that, if it was down to me and it wasn't, the hoax would have been a bit more credible.  The fact that they ran the article at all marks a low point for what is fast becoming the climbing equivilant of the Daily Star.

The only hope I have for cockfax is that they get stung in a fingerprint IP action.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tomtom on May 23, 2010, 12:26:32 pm
Vague details of IF soloed (apparently) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53473)  :-\  :spank: Must be a slow news week.

The thread on t'other channel is causing UKC alot of flak  ;D many posts of shit journalism etc...

EVEN, Sloper has been blamed for the (possible/probably) hoax!  :-\

I'm genuinely offended by that, if it was down to me and it wasn't, the hoax would have been a bit more credible.  The fact that they ran the article at all marks a low point for what is fast becoming the climbing equivilant of the Daily Star.

The only hope I have for cockfax is that they get stung in a fingerprint IP action.

I dont know if the post is still on the cocktalk thread, but it was surprising...  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on May 23, 2010, 12:31:21 pm
i wonder how many people have emailed in pretending to be someones boyfriend/girlfriend since. i might even do one myself
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on May 23, 2010, 07:39:18 pm
Lady Diana does FA of new Font 8c+, I've just heard it from the alien that tried to abduct me.

Apparently Si O'Connor nipped in for a quick repeat and confirmed the grade.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Peanuts on May 24, 2010, 02:40:51 pm
Quote
Apparently Si O'Connor nipped in for a quick repeat and confirmed the grade.

Now you're just being ridiculous ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dingbat on May 26, 2010, 12:38:36 pm
another fast repeat of the lush "Confessions of a specimen hunter" at caley, this time by Adam Clarke.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on May 26, 2010, 02:41:40 pm
and whats that then?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Mike Tyson on May 26, 2010, 02:45:17 pm
 here (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__specimen#photo)

Quote
Caley Crag
Confessions of a Specimen Hunter 7a (V6)   
A left-to-right traverse of the right hand edge of the boulder. Sit-start on slopers, gain the pocket on the face, and continue along the face to a large hole and the end.

 :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: butterworthtom on May 26, 2010, 02:48:23 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on May 26, 2010, 03:00:35 pm
And this is significant why? is he 3ft6? has crab claws for hands perhaps?

Whilst I dont deny the personal significance of such an ascent, I dont think its of national significance, so shouldnt be here. By all means disagree.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on May 26, 2010, 03:25:32 pm
And this is significant why? is he 3ft6? has crab claws for hands perhaps?

What you saying, Andy Harris pisses 7a, hardly newsworthy.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 26, 2010, 03:35:49 pm
another fast repeat of the lush "Confessions of a specimen hunter" at caley, this time by Adam Clarke.


(http://www.smileyvault.com/albums/signs/thumb_smiley-vault-signs-098.gif)

There's even more nonsense than usual round these parts recently.

 :dance1:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on May 26, 2010, 03:38:35 pm
maybe we should start a thread called "insignificant repeats". Unless we've already got that covered by YYFY.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on May 26, 2010, 04:04:15 pm
please lets not have more, whats been mentioned and power club are pretty much all i can take
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dingbat on May 26, 2010, 04:46:24 pm
let's have a web site called big cocks on rock, for all you significant, pushing the grade boys!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on May 26, 2010, 04:51:30 pm
leaving aside the infantile namecalling for a second, how did you read this thread and come to the conclusion that a report of your mate doing a 7a was appropriate? It should have been fairly clear that you'd get this type of response.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on May 26, 2010, 04:52:45 pm
let's have a web site called big cocks on rock, for all you significant, pushing the grade boys!

There are quite a few regular posters here who do push the grade a lot further than V6/7a.

But you've only made a few posts and whilst you may have been lurking for some time, you've not sussed out what the various threads are aimed towards.  Give it time and all will become clear, you don't need to get on the defensive just because you made a mistake.  :spank:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on May 26, 2010, 05:19:24 pm
let's have a web site called big cocks on rock, for all you significant, pushing the grade boys!

Yours?

(http://rainreflections.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/pacifier.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on May 26, 2010, 09:16:25 pm
u chose your name well it seems dingbat. there's too much willy waving as is but like as been said doing a 7a is not significant to the climbing public at large, maybe if your mate was 5 this would have been news. obviously we would have still found fault with it but thats the net for u
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on May 26, 2010, 11:45:11 pm
please lets not have more, whats been mentioned and power club are pretty much all i can take

Poor you   :boohoo:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on May 27, 2010, 06:35:02 am
tell me about it <was hoping for tearful emoticon>
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on May 27, 2010, 09:42:09 am
This one you mean -   :'( ??

I for one would like to read about Dense's training schedule.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: clm on May 27, 2010, 05:12:50 pm
monday - rings,
Tuesday - kettle bells,
Wednesday - rings,
Thursday -kettle bells,
Friday - rings,
Saturday - kettlebells
Sunday - go to crag, put shoes on, take shoes off, go shit in a bush, put shoes on, claim that climbing, the crag and everything else is shit, take shoes off, go home, rings and kettle bells.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on May 27, 2010, 05:27:27 pm
<takes notes>
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on May 27, 2010, 09:47:31 pm
The beast that is Enzo Oddo has done the 3rd ascent of Victimas Perez, F9a, at Margalef.

(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s300/petzlroc99/10527enzo1.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on May 27, 2010, 10:55:17 pm
note to self. not done rings for 2 yrs. not touched kettlebell for one yr. didn't try danny's a lot. people's perceptions never fail to amaze me :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on May 27, 2010, 10:56:10 pm
ps fiend, that emoticon just looks bizarre
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on May 27, 2010, 11:10:13 pm
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/avatar_183.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Arnie on May 28, 2010, 12:39:01 am
Dense, whilst you addressed the issue of rings and kettle bells, you failed to respond to the allegations that you don't actually pull on when you get to the crag, except for perhaps a little cod finger stretch...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on May 28, 2010, 12:57:02 am
I think you are all talking about the Dense of old
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on May 28, 2010, 10:10:43 am
you're right Dylog, he is old...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ethan on May 28, 2010, 10:41:43 am
Carlo Traversi just sent Jade, 6th ascent
Cool pic
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s300/petzlroc99/28125_856827718323_10236438_4823262.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tobym on May 28, 2010, 10:59:14 am
Carlo Traversi just sent Jade, 6th ascent
Cool pic


cool name,too, does he like going sideways? ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on May 28, 2010, 11:48:27 am
note to self. not done rings for 2 yrs. not touched kettlebell for one yr. didn't try danny's a lot. people's perceptions never fail to amaze me :thumbsup:
Is it 7 days of deadhangs + 2 sauna sessions with the latest Mrs Dense these days??
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Control freak on June 18, 2010, 05:59:06 am
Maybe not as much interest for you folks back in blighty, but for the aussies and ex-pats, Toms sent a new V14 called Double Demerit at Sunnyside in Sydney

More info at Chris Webbs blog here (http://www.chriswebbparsons.com/news.php)

Another pic from Toms facebook (photo Jason Lam)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs296.snc3/28484_10150211385950158_602265157_12921715_2157939_n.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on June 19, 2010, 02:00:15 am
That looks proper bo! I'll go check it out I'll be in Sydney next month, not that I'll be able to hang the holds let alone do any of the
moves......
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on June 20, 2010, 09:05:38 pm
Adrian Baxter has ticked two 8b+'s in a day in Spain! Britains most ripped man is crushing it would seem. One of them he did second go!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on June 20, 2010, 09:11:16 pm
Good lad Aid. About time too really!  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on June 20, 2010, 09:19:54 pm
Pete Robins did the 2nd ascent of Infanticide 8c LPT
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ian dunn on June 22, 2010, 02:30:57 pm
Word is Mina L.W. has done PowerPlant.

Any other females done it since Claudie Dunn and Liv Sansoz?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 24, 2010, 09:56:05 am
Ethan Pringle has repeated Wheel Of Life. Sensibly opting for the 9a route grade.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 24, 2010, 09:57:35 am
1. Good effort.

2. Good grading sense.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on June 24, 2010, 11:33:32 am
Good to hear Pringle is back in the game after knacking his shoulder up.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on June 25, 2010, 12:02:31 am
Saw him out there over the last few weeks, he is indeed a beast. Not as significant, but he did Lost For Life V12 &  a bunch of other hard things. He didn't get Ammagamma whist we were there though.

Word is Daniel Woods is heading out soon, nice to see wads making the effort to get out there as it is fucking ace.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Carnage on June 25, 2010, 01:32:48 am
Not as significant, but he did Lost For Life V12

Its is kinda significant as he is the first person to top it out. Everyone else has bailed from the jug. That boy likes to highball!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on June 25, 2010, 02:51:39 am
Not as significant, but he did Lost For Life V12

Its is kinda significant as he is the first person to top it out. Everyone else has bailed from the jug. That boy likes to highball!

Fair, wasn't 100% sure on weather he did or not. Bon effort though!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 26, 2010, 11:54:01 pm
Good to hear Pringle is back in the game after knacking his shoulder up.

Good interview here.
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/ithe_wheel_of_lifei_sees_third_ascent_by_pringle/ (http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/ithe_wheel_of_lifei_sees_third_ascent_by_pringle/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chummer on June 29, 2010, 10:56:35 am
Dave Mac repeated Indian Face topping out just as the heavens opened...apparently it was 'spittin' en route so why he wasn't inside drawing on computer paper I'll never know.
Good effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on June 29, 2010, 11:02:54 am
Good effort, I wondered what was behind his tweet (http://twitter.com/davemacleod09/status/17288092104)

Quote from: Dave MacLeod
Can't sleep; contemplating the day's events on cloggy.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ged on June 29, 2010, 11:30:35 am
bloody hell, that's pretty big news.  I thought he'd deemed it unjustifiable?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: galpinos on June 29, 2010, 11:34:27 am

Shit the bed, that is BIG news in the world of UK trad!

Wowsers.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 29, 2010, 11:35:32 am
bloody hell, that's pretty big news.  I thought he'd deemed it unjustifiable?

Sounds like he didn't have the exact line when he tried it last time.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on June 29, 2010, 11:40:53 am
Wow, top news!

I read on Jack Geldard's blog the other day that a 'certain someone' was trying it but I hadn't guessed it was Dave.

Can't quite believe several people on the other channel didn't seem to believe Adam until Mick 'confirmed' it!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chummer on June 29, 2010, 11:57:34 am
Caff said that D.M had seen the footage of Johnny on it (well the top bit I suppose) and noticed that he had taken a slightly different line thus avoiding a particularly creeky hold and so thought it was worth another look. Seems you can climb anywhere up there at death on a stick 6b/c....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ackbar on June 29, 2010, 12:08:24 pm
why he wasn't inside drawing on computer paper I'll never know.

 :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on June 29, 2010, 03:31:25 pm
Ballsy effort going for that with the threat of rain hanging in the air. It was absolutely torrential yesterday when it did come in.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tris on June 29, 2010, 03:33:34 pm
Nice one Dave, now that is a significant repeat!! (and a half)  :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on June 29, 2010, 03:36:36 pm
Ballsy effort going for that with the threat of rain hanging in the air. It was absolutely torrential yesterday when it did come in.

Could have done a Derek Hershey. Scary.

Great effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Robsons on June 29, 2010, 05:18:38 pm
This is BIG news, agreed! Was wondering who was going to be the next to repeat it...and when! Guess Dave Mac was an obvious choice! Can't wait to see the footage
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on June 30, 2010, 10:18:59 am
Run DMC blogs about it, etc (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/06/indian-face.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on June 30, 2010, 10:20:53 am
I was interested that he felt Echo Wall is more dangerous/ worse protected than Indian Face etc, especially as he didn't grade it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on June 30, 2010, 10:42:59 am
ditto. i reckon he strongly implied that he thinks EW is at least E11 and probably E12, given he thinks it's pretty dangerous.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on June 30, 2010, 11:32:22 am
Now he needs to concentrate his efforts on that Orkney shizzle.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on June 30, 2010, 11:38:17 am
ditto. i reckon he strongly implied that he thinks EW is at least E11 and probably E12, given he thinks it's pretty dangerous.

The first part of that blog was all a little  ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on June 30, 2010, 11:42:32 am
Thats cos its not that hard compared to the current crop of cutting edge trad routes.  For its time it is an amazing route but if you read most the threads on UKC about it you'd think it was still one of the hardest.  Its so famous because it was the first E9 and its an iconic route climbed by an iconic climber. Nice effort Dave!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chummer on June 30, 2010, 02:01:56 pm
Thats cos its not that hard compared to the current crop of cutting edge trad routes.  For its time it is an amazing route but if you read most the threads on UKC about it you'd think it was still one of the hardest.  Its so famous because it was the first E9 and its an iconic route climbed by an iconic climber. Nice effort Dave!
...you forgot to add..'and it goes up one of the most iconic slabs of rock on Cloggy in Wales in Britain too'
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Falling Down on June 30, 2010, 02:06:48 pm
ditto. i reckon he strongly implied that he thinks EW is at least E11 and probably E12, given he thinks it's pretty dangerous.

The first part of that blog was all a little  ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.

I disagree Paul. I'm no cheerleader for Dave Mac but I thought his IF blog post gently punctured the balloon of hype/mystique surrounding the route rather than popping it loudly and making everyone jump.  This was in stark contrast to the 'My elbows were fucked so I went to Devon to downgrade Walk of Life' from last year...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on June 30, 2010, 02:13:03 pm
The first part of that blog was all a little  ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.

I read it as an insight into the mind-state you have to be in to do such dangerous routes with deck-out/death consequences.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on June 30, 2010, 02:18:04 pm
Hmmm I just find the leading Tweet the night before and then quite a blase start to a blog a bit hard to swallow but maybe I'm being overly cynical (its not unusual) due to previous postings, like the one you've highlighted..

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on June 30, 2010, 02:23:46 pm
You cynical?  And I thought I was the only cynical person round here  :P

Maybe the tweet was whilst articulating his thoughts into the blog post.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on June 30, 2010, 02:39:48 pm
ditto. i reckon he strongly implied that he thinks EW is at least E11 and probably E12, given he thinks it's pretty dangerous.

The first part of that blog was all a little  ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.

I disagree Paul. I'm no cheerleader for Dave Mac but I thought his IF blog post gently punctured the balloon of hype/mystique surrounding the route rather than popping it loudly and making everyone jump.  This was in stark contrast to the 'My elbows were fucked so I went to Devon to downgrade Walk of Life' from last year...

yeah, his WOL post was a bit blah blah I thought.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Rocksteady on June 30, 2010, 02:45:33 pm
I read the blog on IF as a sort of interaction between the hype/mystique that surrounds the route and Dave's subjective experience while climbing it. I think he's in a bit of a unique position of having more really dangerous and cutting edge trad experience than anyone else who's tried it (with no disrespect to those others who've led it, as in their day they were the 'cutting edge'). I think it makes sense that he was a little underwhelmed by 7bish wall climbing with a death-fall compared to his prior 8c/+ish overhanging climbing with a death-fall.

Though I did feel he was bigging up his Echo Wall route a little (ditto re: Walk of Life). The trouble with the footage of him doing Echo Wall IMO is that it doesn't effectively convey how difficult and dangerous that route is. We see DMC shovelling snow, practising the route a bit, then cruising it. Don't really get an impression of how small the holds are and how bad the gear is. Anyway, sorry  :off:

Basically well done Dave, again.  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on June 30, 2010, 03:34:08 pm
I can't believe  no-one has been geeky enough to spot that in the film where he originally tries it, he's wearing a pair of Scarpa Magos! FFS, I'm not surprised his toes were kiilin him - they're a very stiff, turned down boot designed for high-end sport climbing, not trad shufflin. Climbing anything less than 30 degrees overhanging in those babies means instant excruiating pain. Total punter on footwear choice!

good effort on the classic tick tho  ::)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 30, 2010, 03:45:06 pm
Quote
Though I did feel he was bigging up his Echo Wall route a little

Seems fair enough, it being britain's hardest route n'all. Must be galling to find Indian Face three grades easier and then have the punters wailing about the biggest feat of the last ten years.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on June 30, 2010, 05:31:56 pm
Jeez- it must be more stressful blogging on this stuff knowing that its going to get dissected and deconstructed than doing the route.

The answer is for him to get a dog and write about that.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Will Hunt on June 30, 2010, 06:46:29 pm
Quote
Though I did feel he was bigging up his Echo Wall route a little

Seems fair enough, it being britain's hardest route n'all. Must be galling to find Indian Face three grades easier and then have the punters wailing about the biggest feat of the last ten years.

Once again, Johnny, I think you've struck the nail firmly on the head there.


The first part of that blog was all a little  ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.

I disagree. I thought it was, as someone else (who I forget) said, an insight into the state of mind he was in on this particular death route. It was interesting to see the use of the term "woke up" again. I can't remember for certain but I'm sure that the last time that particular phrase was used was in Gresham's write up of his IF ascent. Also, to be fair to DMC he has got a bit of history of cruising E9 slab routes. Considering WOL is, I believe, technically harder than IF and he said that he found the climbing very easy.

In a way its nice that the bubble around IF has burst. The other three IF climbers up till know have added to the aura of it being the absolute living end (fair enough in the time they did it) and now that DMC has changed the trend in how it is seen by the public it'll see more traffic.

The line of people on UKC begging for an upgrade and proclaiming it the hardest trad route in the UK was embarrassing.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tom de Gay on June 30, 2010, 07:20:06 pm
Perhaps one of the reasons it went unrepeated following Gresham/Dixon is that when Leo onsighted Master's not long after ('96?), the game changed and the onsight seemed like a real possibility. There was certainly hype about this prospect at the time. Had Dave done the route 10 years ago (he was certainly capable) I think it would have been regarded as less newsworthy than it seems to be today!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on June 30, 2010, 07:20:52 pm
From Committed

Committed Vol 1 - Dave MacLeod trys Indian Face E9 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3e0AllzcgE#ws)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 30, 2010, 07:58:41 pm
Quote
Perhaps one of the reasons it went unrepeated following Gresham/Dixon is that when Leo onsighted Master's not long after ('96?), the game changed and the onsight seemed like a real possibility. There was certainly hype about this prospect at the time.

Nail on head there Tom. It was a bit later though, '98/'99 maybe. I remember one of Leo's early lectures where he helped the audience imagine Cloggy, then drew on the line of Indian Face, and then stated an onsight was 'the greatest challenge in british climbing'.

I think we're actually further away from an onsight attempt than we were then - the nature of the beast is rather better known now, and folk are more wary of the route's misleading blind alleys than of the difficulty. And of course the idiot pedants would say knowing that invalidates the onsight anyway.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tom de Gay on June 30, 2010, 08:09:58 pm
Quote
It was a bit later though, '98/'99 maybe.
Not sure - wasn't he 16 at the time? Think it was in the first OTE I ever bought (the one with Bent Spoon footless on El Poussah on cover) so left an impression. Cracking stuff.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on June 30, 2010, 08:30:05 pm
I'm pretty sure it was 1996.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 30, 2010, 08:35:06 pm
If he was 16 then it would have been.  In fact, just dug the El Poussah OTE off the shelf and there it is - Oct '96 issue. Other highlights include Crimping Arthur Harris at Rubicon and the Grimer/ Jerry naked article...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: KH on June 30, 2010, 11:00:01 pm
I can't believe  no-one has been geeky enough to spot that in the film where he originally tries it, he's wearing a pair of Scarpa Magos! FFS, I'm not surprised his toes were kiilin him - they're a very stiff, turned down boot designed for high-end sport climbing, not trad shufflin. Climbing anything less than 30 degrees overhanging in those babies means instant excruiating pain. Total punter on footwear choice!

good effort on the classic tick tho  ::)

You're bang on, although the shoe he's wearing is the Stix slip on.  They're very down toed and rubbish for slabs, although they are great on edges.

Great to see Dave MaC getting this done!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Steve R on July 01, 2010, 12:07:28 am
If he was 16 then it would have been.  In fact, just dug the El Poussah OTE off the shelf and there it is - Oct '96 issue. Other highlights include Crimping Arthur Harris at Rubicon and the Grimer/ Jerry naked article...

As chance would have it, I found this very issue alone on a bookshelf in France earlier this year.  Great read!

Anyway, nice one Dave - good to hear If 6 was 9 and Echo Wall put into context.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on July 01, 2010, 12:57:15 pm
You're bang on, although the shoe he's wearing is the Stix slip on.  They're very down toed and rubbish for slabs, although they are great on edges.

Check the video, 2.06, for shoes to be slip-ons don't they require the abscence of laces? They're Magos.

Great effort to DMC.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on July 02, 2010, 07:12:59 am
Looks like he stuck with the Magos (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/07/video-stills-from-indian-face.html)  :lol:

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TC0nb_1QYuI/AAAAAAAACSg/p1P-_Go15rE/s1600/IF2.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on July 02, 2010, 09:29:15 am
I think we have some confusion here. Clearly, when he first tried in (See Committed Vol I) he was wearing Magos (avec laces) in some of the footage.

His recent ascent (photo above) was in the much more appropriate Stix (still turned down, but a softer shoe with more 'feel')

So simply a matter of the correct footwear :P
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on July 02, 2010, 09:34:40 am
 :oops: Clearly I'm not overly familiar with the Scarpa range.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on July 02, 2010, 09:54:55 am
Consider that a good thing...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: BB on July 02, 2010, 11:48:07 am
Consider that a good thing...

The scarpa stix is a fine shoe. I just wish i could still buy them in my size.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Neil F on July 02, 2010, 12:37:14 pm
Anyone else impressed by the metamorphosis of Indian Face, from steep slab to overhanging wall?  More impressive is the rate of change, as it definitely looked like a steep slab when I was up there just 2 days previously...

 ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 01:04:09 pm
The twatty thought just entered my head, 'the scarpa stix is a fine shoe, not a notch on a pair of ballets'. Wonder how IF would feel in pair of them?! Hard E9?   :wank: ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 02, 2010, 01:12:53 pm
Worse than that didn't Johnny do IF in a pair of Kamets or some such shitness?  :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 01:25:56 pm
Really  :lol:, sure i saw a pic yrs ago and they were ballets, although that could have been a masters photo.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on July 02, 2010, 02:37:43 pm
I've seen the picture of JD wearing Ballets but I think the actual ascent was done in Calma Lince boots (Very soft and very sticky ...T_B would approve)

Where's my anorak...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 02, 2010, 02:41:21 pm
That's the ones! They were soft but also shite.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on July 02, 2010, 02:48:48 pm
Here are mrjonathanr's pics of Johnny on the FA of IF, anyone work out what shoes he's wearing

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4231151301_df6ba6d69c_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/4231151301/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2752/4231151307_bde6edb279_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/4231151307/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4231151311_c0f122e032_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/4231151311/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4231151319_cfc55bab41_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/4231151319/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Serpico on July 02, 2010, 02:52:09 pm
In the top pic the the right boot looks like it could be a Boreal Firé.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on July 02, 2010, 02:52:55 pm
Jasper's probably the only person old enough to remember.... ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 02, 2010, 02:56:22 pm
Fuck off you dick.

There is no argument here. duncan got it spot on, they were Calma Linces. Most people hadn't heard of them before the ascent and they never became popular. They did look a bit like Firés but were softer.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on July 02, 2010, 02:58:54 pm
Don't worry Jasper, I had a pair of Fires too.  I used to get them out on easier Font circuits sometime until I shat myself on a Dame Joanne problem, swiftly retiring them again (in 2002) :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 03:06:10 pm
Anybody elses neck hairs just stood up looking at them pics or is it just me.

Calma Linces, they even sound shit.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on July 02, 2010, 03:12:23 pm
I might be about to take this to the next level, but...


... i think they were Lince 2s. When i lived in Rundle Road for some reason there was a bag of Johnny's boots - tiny little Ballets and Ninjas plus the said Lince 2s. I think they all went in the bin  ???
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on July 02, 2010, 03:19:46 pm
Only just noticed, but good skills to JD removing his jumper half-way through  :P
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on July 02, 2010, 03:20:14 pm
Here are mrjonathanr's pics of Johnny on the FA of IF, anyone work out what shoes he's wearing
Those piccies are great Slackers.
For people with extreme rock - there's a really nice Paul Williams colour shot on page 141. Boot identification should be fine for knowledgeable folk from that.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on July 02, 2010, 03:23:37 pm
... i think they were Lince 2s.
I think you're right!


(http://i.ebayimg.com/19/%21Bql2BJgB2k%7E$%28KGrHqMH-http://i.ebayimg.com/14/!Bql2SnwB2k~$(KGrHqQH-D4EuY048lC)BLwIKE,Gew~~_12.JPG)

Lince 1s - nearest I can find.


When i lived in Rundle Road for some reason there was a bag of Johnny's boots - tiny little Ballets and Ninjas plus the said Lince 2s. I think they all went in the bin  ???
:o


Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tom de Gay on July 02, 2010, 03:33:44 pm
Let us not forget Redhead questing off up here in EBs nearly 30 years ago. Dodgy shoes are part of the history of the route.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 02, 2010, 03:40:05 pm
Indeed. Questing being the right word as he was trying to do it ground up.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Sloper on July 02, 2010, 08:52:05 pm
Anybody elses neck hairs just stood up looking at them pics or is it just me.

Calma Linces, they even sound shit.

They weren't as shit as the pair of cragratz that I owned, ps I'm even sad enough to remember the advertising strap line 'like Johnny they're just simply better'.


Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: RichK on July 02, 2010, 10:01:10 pm
 :thumbsup:
Anyone else impressed by the metamorphosis of Indian Face, from steep slab to overhanging wall?  More impressive is the rate of change, as it definitely looked like a steep slab when I was up there just 2 days previously...

 ;)
:thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on July 03, 2010, 01:42:18 pm
I love all the old school shoe stuff, I think it's funny when you see 6a punters in Font with a 5.10 on the left, Boreal on the right.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on July 03, 2010, 07:46:19 pm
To be fair the Font 6as in Font that actually require footwork i.e. slabs are usually Font 7a and nails....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Teaboy on July 03, 2010, 10:31:49 pm
Let us not forget Redhead questing off up here in EBs nearly 30 years ago. Dodgy shoes are part of the history of the route.

I've tried to resist but can't but it seems a certain level of shoe related nerdyness is acceptable on this thread so I feel it ok to point out that he was wearing Canyons (with resin rubbed into the sole, of course)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatdoc on July 03, 2010, 10:56:14 pm
having owned all the above..

I disagree on the canyons.. though JR used them on this wall with resin on the soles..

what where they lince2s.. or the previous sponsors,,, boreals.

i dunno... :-[

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: jonjon on July 04, 2010, 08:06:34 pm
Bought a pair of Lince 2's on the strength of JD's ascent, they were very shit. If only he'd had a nice pair of Vision's he could of gone on to be someone.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: liam fyfe on July 04, 2010, 08:10:14 pm
good effort carlo traversi on aslan, the vid on ukc he cruised it. with just 1 pad.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dobbin on July 05, 2010, 09:28:13 am
Random!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: liam fyfe on July 05, 2010, 10:57:05 am
just saying its a good effort especially with no spotters and 1 pad. that last move looks well spicey!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on July 05, 2010, 04:50:42 pm
why's that random dobbin? its a pretty significant repeat
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on July 05, 2010, 08:46:51 pm
I know this won't appeal to many, but I'm impressed by Paul Smitton repeating Dalliance at Kilnsey - I don't think it's had many ascents with the true finish, and I think he's been trying it a fair bit. Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone?  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 05, 2010, 09:12:54 pm
I know this won't appeal to many, but I'm impressed by Paul Smitton repeating Dalliance at Kilnsey - I don't think it's had many ascents with the true finish, and I think he's been trying it a fair bit. Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone?  :thumbsup:

Apart from Ondra rampage  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on July 05, 2010, 10:01:18 pm
Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone?  :thumbsup:

Apart from Ondra rampage  ;)

 ;) We all know that doesn't count.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on July 05, 2010, 10:04:06 pm
Are we ruling the jocks out too?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stu Littlefair on July 05, 2010, 10:05:02 pm
and 8c Jee?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on July 05, 2010, 10:08:17 pm
Are we ruling the jocks out too?
Give me science Roberto. Numbers please.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on July 05, 2010, 10:10:40 pm
Why does this feel like the "What did the Roman's ever do for us?" bit of Life of Brian?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on July 05, 2010, 10:39:33 pm
Splitter.

Uptown, hang about, I'm moisturizing....


I refuse to believe Malcolm hasn't ticked an 8c down here this year.

Am I missing a bigger picture though?
With tag team ascents of Unjustified, Is there a suggestion that hard 8b+ is harder than soft 8c?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 05, 2010, 10:42:53 pm
I refuse to believe Malcolm hasn't ticked an 8c down here this year.

He has done Dr Crimp - 8b+
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on July 05, 2010, 10:53:54 pm
and indian summer but no 8c this year in the shire yet
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on July 06, 2010, 09:23:21 am
Am I missing a bigger picture though?
With tag team ascents of Unjustified, Is there a suggestion that hard 8b+ is harder than soft 8c?
I think the numbers sum it up nicely (not the grades, the ascentionists) - You can easily argue the 8c got so many ascents because of its grade and its quality, whilst the 8b+? Who else has done it exactly? Grades are supposed to be from consensus. The hardest ascent isn't necessarily the one with the biggest numbers.
Dr. Crimp can't be harder than Dalliance Adam, otherwise you'd be trying Dalliance first.  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 06, 2010, 09:28:47 am
That's odd as I always thought Dalliance was supposed to be quite soft for 8b+? Just from what people (inc. Pego) said back in the day like. Didn't realise it hadn't had many ascents.
 
 :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on July 06, 2010, 09:35:49 am
That's odd as I always thought Dalliance was supposed to be quite soft for 8b+? Just from what people (inc. Pego) said back in the day like. Didn't realise it hadn't had many ascents.
 
 :-\

looking at his 8a.nu spray card it looks like its due to hold loss.

Quote
Praise the Lord! Top end since loss of holds at top

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 06, 2010, 09:36:22 am
That makes sense then!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on July 06, 2010, 09:45:30 am
Seems a bit weird that Dalliance still gets done by the original method. I've only dogged up it once, but I was given beta by Gaz Parry for a new method that he and Mcclure did at the top. It was a really nice sequence that involved getting the big sticky out crimp with your left hand rather than right, then pulling rightwards to finish using an obvious undercut. From what I remember, I think they said it was more like F8b that way. The crux was definitely the lower boulder problem to the break using that method.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 06, 2010, 01:35:38 pm
@uptown
When did I ever say dr crimp was harder than dalliance?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on July 06, 2010, 10:35:10 pm
@uptown
When did I ever say dr crimp was harder than dalliance?

Oh Adam, I was only doing a friendly bait on you.
The OP question was whether anyone had climbed harder than Dalliance this year in the shur, you mentioned Dr. Crimp, it's not.

Seems a bit weird that Dalliance still gets done by the original method. I've only dogged up it once, but I was given beta by Gaz Parry for a new method that he and Mcclure did at the top. It was a really nice sequence that involved getting the big sticky out crimp with your left hand rather than right, then pulling rightwards to finish using an obvious undercut. From what I remember, I think they said it was more like F8b that way. The crux was definitely the lower boulder problem to the break using that method.

Fair point, but I think it's more weird that Gaz and Steve traversed off to another belay at the top of more rhubarb rather than repeating the direct line of Daves, unless they found that too hard and wanted the quickfix. Vickers did the same but traversed off leftwards for a quickfixe. All worthy I'm sure - I'll probably do the 8a+ and 8b versions, but the meat is as Smitton tasted, and it's a rare beast.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 06, 2010, 10:52:16 pm
Quote
Oh Adam, I was only doing a friendly bait on you.
The OP question was whether anyone had climbed harder than Dalliance this year in the shur, you mentioned Dr. Crimp, it's not.

Ahh, i only mentioned Dr Crimp in relation to roberto thinking Malcolm must had done an 8c this year. Not in relation to how hard Daliance is. After the world cup/bbc thread, i am a little defensive!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on July 06, 2010, 10:56:17 pm
so you should be you illiterate cvnt.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 06, 2010, 10:57:38 pm
so you should be you illiterate cvnt.
:lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on July 06, 2010, 10:59:01 pm
As it happens I just found some phone captured footage of Slopes last night in the Broadie.....

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=48224243 (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=48224243)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: hairich on July 06, 2010, 11:09:44 pm
i watched nachco do the 8a+ footless problem at the cave yesterday twice while he was resting trying to do the sd to louis.monster.hope he gets it tomorrow
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 07, 2010, 11:44:07 am
Not really significant, but then it doesn't deserve its own thread.

Few more Ondra ticks.
Waddage - Onsight
Revelations - RP
Toilet - Onsight

Tried Mutation. Close it seems.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on July 07, 2010, 11:46:52 am
Not really significant, but then it doesn't deserve its own thread.

Few more Ondra ticks.
Waddage - Onsight
Revelations - RP
Toilet - Onsight

Tried Mutation. Close it seems.
Duh already created a new thread.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 07, 2010, 11:48:40 am
Not really significant, but then it doesn't deserve its own thread.

Few more Ondra ticks.
Waddage - Onsight
Revelations - RP
Toilet - Onsight

Tried Mutation. Close it seems.
Duh already created a new thread.

Great minds  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on July 07, 2010, 12:16:44 pm

Revelations - RP

Surely this is the nail in the coffin for the argument that this is 8a+!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 07, 2010, 12:18:14 pm

Revelations - RP

Surely this is the nail in the coffin for the argument that this is 8a+!

Lets hope so!  ;)
Though he did take 8a+ for it. Maybe no on told him its supposed to be 8b?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on July 07, 2010, 12:22:04 pm
I'd imagine he'd take whatever the book told him it was.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on July 07, 2010, 12:23:07 pm
no hubble?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on July 07, 2010, 12:24:40 pm
Bit warm for that I'd have thunk.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on July 07, 2010, 12:26:17 pm
Seems pretty cool for july really, compared to what its been like recently. But point taken.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Serpico on July 07, 2010, 12:34:11 pm
I'd imagine he'd take whatever the book told him it was.

He downgraded The Mandela and Ecstasy from their guidebook grades.
It seems like we might be a nation of overgraders...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on July 07, 2010, 12:41:52 pm
He didn't even mark it as a hard 8a+!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on July 07, 2010, 12:57:04 pm
Probably an oversight.
The way I see it, the guy utterly rinses everything at the World Bouldering comp, then falls off a two move boulder problem start. That would tally with my feeling that the boulder prob is 7c+ and too hard to be the crux on an 8a+ (PUTP and Dialectics don't count as they are boulder probs without routes on the end). Generally there seems to be two sorts of 8a+ in the Peak, ones that are 8a+ and ones that are 8b, hence very few 8bs given 8b. Seriously anyone who thinks Austrian and Magnetic are harder than the likes of Boot Boys, Monumental, Revelations is tripping on crack.  ;D  :wave:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on July 07, 2010, 01:12:17 pm
The guy described The Toilet as "fun" FFS  :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Turboman on July 07, 2010, 03:37:52 pm
I wonder if he's taking requests?

If so could someone point him at mecca for the onsight?

That would be tres cool.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: liam fyfe on July 07, 2010, 04:32:47 pm
that would be impressive. could be possible for him thats the crazy part.!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 07, 2010, 10:13:15 pm
In the rockfax guide as 8b, so must have stumped for the downgrade.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on July 08, 2010, 10:45:45 am
Or was going on grade given by other source/person/8a.nu.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ian dunn on July 08, 2010, 01:17:35 pm
No Adam heard I did it in 1991 and it had had 17 previous ascents since 1983, so no way could it be 8b!!!!Bet he is well pissed off he didn't onsight it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ian dunn on July 08, 2010, 01:18:41 pm
Sorry 1984 not 83!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on July 08, 2010, 01:48:49 pm
Has it changed so much from the original. I always thought it was 8b from speaking to those who have done the rotpunt in the last few years
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on July 08, 2010, 02:11:13 pm
in the old days it was probably a 7b/+ boulder start as opposed to a 7c/+ if my memory serves. or my fingers were stronger? actually i don't know, went on it after long trip to buoux so was good on half crimped pockets at the time.

this was probably '91?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 08, 2010, 02:14:16 pm
The pocket's way shitter than it used to be. It was 8a (or E7 6c  ;) ) originally, whether it's a full two grades harder now I don't know.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on July 08, 2010, 02:58:49 pm
in the old days it was probably a 7b/+ boulder start as opposed to a 7c/+ if my memory serves. or my fingers were stronger? actually i don't know, went on it after long trip to buoux so was good on half crimped pockets at the time.

this was probably '91?

I think that's cleared everything up nicely.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on July 13, 2010, 05:26:49 pm

If so could someone point him at mecca for the onsight?


My physio (who was at the crag) informs me that he tried to on-sight Mecca but didn't manage it.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 13, 2010, 05:27:11 pm
Jordan joined the 8c club today with an ascent of True North at Kilnsey.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Robsons on July 13, 2010, 05:45:29 pm
Cool! Good work from him...wonder how long it will take him to get 9a?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Dr T on July 15, 2010, 06:13:12 pm
From Javu

Second Deep Water Solo Ascent of Christine (15 July 2010)
Gavin Symonds has made what is almost certainly the second deep water solo ascent of Christine, Ken Palmer's French 8a at Long Quarry Point. The route was first soloed by Ken in 2003 who also made first ascent of the line, with bolts, the previous year.

Prop's to Gav

Ken on the first ascent
Set in Stone - Deep Water Soloing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_oKqkNcIlc&feature=player_embedded#ws)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 27, 2010, 09:52:51 am
Charlotte Durif has onsighted an 8c, Le Roi du Petrole at St Loup. Also an 8b+ and a couple of 8bs for good measure.

http://www.chadurif.fr/index.html (http://www.chadurif.fr/index.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on July 27, 2010, 12:56:08 pm
Charlotte Durif has onsighted an 8c...

That is quite amazing and really closes the performance gap between men and women. I think it's only Patxi who has onsighted harder is it not? (I know Ondra was reported to have done one but he said he couldn't take more than 8c for it)

Also mighty impressive that she is onsighting so close to her best redpoint grade (8c+?)...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Palomides on July 28, 2010, 08:04:11 am
In case anyone was wondering, the routes that Charlotte Durif did are all on a small sector on the north face on Pic St Loup, north of Montpellier:

(http://medias.telerama.fr/cinemovies/photos/18064/36-vues-du-pic-saint-loup-2009-18064-303074708.jpg)

Pic St Loup is the mountain on the left. The big crag to the right is Hortus, where there's nothing above 8a.

To get to the routes, you have to walk to the top of Pic St Loup, and abseil down 40m. This  is one of my local crags, but I've never been there, as the easiest route is 8a+! It's unusual for the area, in that it's completely north-facing, unlike the ovens of Claret, Seynes, Russan and so on.

This is one of the 8bs she onsighted:
(http://benfolio.free.fr/climb/climb2004/images/2004-06Cedric%20Vaubaillon,%20La%20genese%20des%20mutants,%208b,%20Pic%20Saint%20loup.jpg).

The 8c goes up the steeper bit to the left (I think).
More pictures and info on Charlottes blog (http://chadurif.fr/blog-47.html) and this old news report about Snails Paradis here (http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=1620) (there's a long version at 8c+)


It's worth noting as well that Dave Graham did the FA of Roi du Petrole in 2005, and thought it was 8c+
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Neil F on July 28, 2010, 11:43:15 pm

The big crag to the right is Hortus, where there's nothing above 8a.


That's as maybe, but there are still some great routes at Hortus!  2 or 3 pitches, some dodgy rock, fantastic outlook...

Still, I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you didn't already know!

Neil
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Carnage on August 13, 2010, 02:29:12 am
No 'new' news I guess, but heres Ethan Pringle's blog post on his trip to Aus and links to pics:

http://www.ethanpringle.com/2010/08/06/quick-oz-recap/ (http://www.ethanpringle.com/2010/08/06/quick-oz-recap/)

Daniel Woods and Phillip Schaal are in the Grampians at the moment so i expect there'll be some significant repeats soon. I'm sure they'll get pointed at this uber hard project of Sam Edwards (seen here trying the moves):

(http://whipper.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Atlas_3.jpg)
(http://whipper.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Atlas_2.jpg)

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on August 17, 2010, 10:53:44 am
Caff and Pete have had a good week in North Wales: 3rd ascent of Infanticide and 4th of The Very Big and the Very Small.

http://news.v12outdoor.com/climbing-news/ (http://news.v12outdoor.com/climbing-news/)

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on August 17, 2010, 11:30:19 am
I hope one of them does Big Bang!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 17, 2010, 11:41:09 am
Excellent stuff. Re Pete's comments about grades, if he's comparing TVBATVS with LA at 8c then he's obviously going to think that it's a fair bit easier as everyone knows LA is about as 8c+ as 8c can get.

Great Diamond pic by the way Si.

Oh and what Doylo said.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on August 17, 2010, 11:58:29 am
Sea of Tranquility could do with a repeat too. It only 17 years old! Pete's had a quick look.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on August 18, 2010, 01:43:09 pm
http://www.b3bouldering.com/2010/08/18/angie-payne-climbs-the-automator-v13-rmnp/ (http://www.b3bouldering.com/2010/08/18/angie-payne-climbs-the-automator-v13-rmnp/)

first 8B by a woman?

Edit: Vid to give a flavour of the problem
The Automator (http://vimeo.com/5422607)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: DaveC on August 18, 2010, 01:55:17 pm


Daniel Woods and Phillip Schaal are in the Grampians at the moment so i expect there'll be some significant repeats soon. :



They may be having some problems with the weather. We're having the wettest winter in over a decade down here and Western Victoria has been getting the full brunt of it! Relative humidity has barely dropped below 97% in many places (including the Grampians) for three weeks now!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on August 18, 2010, 02:18:18 pm
Massively impressive that Stubbs. Looks like a great set of moves too and not some 100 move shuffle  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on August 20, 2010, 06:32:22 am


Daniel Woods and Phillip Schaal are in the Grampians at the moment so i expect there'll be some significant repeats soon. :



They may be having some problems with the weather. We're having the wettest winter in over a decade down here and Western Victoria has been getting the full brunt of it! Relative humidity has barely dropped below 97% in many places (including the Grampians) for three weeks now!

I see from 8a.I'm better than you.com that Woods was still in the USA two days ago.

Webb- Parsons has logged 8a, but that's not significant for an 8b+ crusher.   
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 23, 2010, 04:01:20 pm
True North got another ascent last week. Richard Waterton this time. Effort, considering wetness on Full Tilt.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on August 25, 2010, 10:52:20 pm
Nacho did Never Ending Story!

http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http://www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D6786 (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http://www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D6786)

(http://www.8a.nu/images/1458/1458_634182515376532500_IMG_0320.JPG)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on August 26, 2010, 12:27:00 am
bestia!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chriss on August 26, 2010, 03:50:45 am
Paul Robinson (under fed US wad, not Neighbours bad guy) has repeated Big Fred's 'Monkey Wedding' in Rocklands. He also suggested 8c rather than 8b+ as originally graded.

Info here.

http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/paul-robinson-makes-the-2nd-ascent-of-monkey-wedding-8c (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/paul-robinson-makes-the-2nd-ascent-of-monkey-wedding-8c)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 26, 2010, 07:16:24 am
Fuck, with his ticklist saying it's the second hardest thing he's done is serious shit. When did Fred climb it? Amazing. <<EDIT: Just checked, it was 2003.  :bow:

Oh and re Nacho.  8)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nike Air on August 26, 2010, 07:48:04 am
True North got another ascent last week. Richard Waterton this time. Effort, considering wetness on Full Tilt.
Well done Richard. Now Gangle, come on!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: the_dom on August 26, 2010, 10:11:22 am
Paul Robinson (under fed US wad, not Neighbours bad guy) has repeated Big Fred's 'Monkey Wedding' in Rocklands. He also suggested 8c rather than 8b+ as originally graded.

I ran into Paul when he was trying this about 2 weeks ago - he thought it was the hardest thing that Fred had opened and in a completely different league to Amandla, which Fred thought was the hardest thing he'd opened.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2010, 10:55:45 am
Hi Dom, you been stuck under a rock?

Or just making the most of winter?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on September 07, 2010, 02:19:47 pm
Pete Whittaker became yet another Brit to yard his away across the Greenspit crack in Italy last month. He did it on his 6th day and looks like it's settling in around French 8b. Nice work boyo! 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on September 07, 2010, 05:08:09 pm
Buoux Dolomites 8c has had a decent summer (http://www.scarpa.co.uk/team/blogs.asp?TeamID=40):

Soloed The Brandler-Hasse in 1 hour 37 mins
Redpointed the crux pitches of Pan Aroma
Got into Cambridge

Not bad for an alpinist!

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JFreeman on September 08, 2010, 11:11:18 pm
Daniel Turner did the full traverse (R-L) of the ladder face at Bowderstone on Monday - 'The Link' aka Lateral Gruntings into Final Curtain. At around 28 moves Dan gave it hard font 8a+, significantly harder than the Lateral into Grand Link.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on September 08, 2010, 11:28:36 pm
Buoux Dolomites 8c has had a decent summer (http://www.scarpa.co.uk/team/blogs.asp?TeamID=40):

Soloed The Brandler-Hasse in 1 hour 37 mins
Redpointed the crux pitches of Pan Aroma
Got into Cambridge

Not bad for an alpinist!

Nor one to be tactful

Quote
However, I am not a man that can cope with constant failing (dos any such man exist?), so I allowed myself the occasional ´success´ of attempting routes more suited to my style - steep and physically demanding – and at the same time, ticking off classics like Lourdes 8a, and unnamed 8c at La Murla, Spain (see pic), and falling from pretty much the last move (can you grab the chain on this one?) on Unjustified, 8B+, on my second try – i´ll hopefully get back soon to finish it off!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Teaboy on September 10, 2010, 10:27:48 am
I know this was posted before but I think only lasted an hour before the site went down so probably worth a re-post. Jenny Woodward did Mandela at Kilnsey on Monday.  :great:

Not bad considering the logisitcs involved in having to dry holds each trip as well as a bolt blowing off one day last week!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 10, 2010, 10:45:26 am
David Mason did Pools Of Bethesda in't pass yesterday.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on September 10, 2010, 01:37:38 pm


Quote
However, I am not a man that can cope with constant failing (dos any such man exist?), so I allowed myself the occasional ´success´ of attempting routes more suited to my style - steep and physically demanding – and at the same time, ticking off classics like Lourdes 8a, and unnamed 8c at La Murla, Spain (see pic), and falling from pretty much the last move (can you grab the chain on this one?) on Unjustified, 8B+, on my second try – i´ll hopefully get back soon to finish it off!
[/quote]

 :lol:

just a typo surely.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nibile on September 10, 2010, 03:11:25 pm
rich is clearly a natural born wad, but my goodness, what a lack of poetry in his blog.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on September 10, 2010, 04:07:36 pm
as well as a bolt blowing off one day last week!

First sign of Autumn when those hangers come spinning down
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: fatneck on September 13, 2010, 10:15:49 pm
Quote from: Lincoln
David Mason did Pools Of Bethesda in't pass yesterday.

Beast!! How many ascents has this had now?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on September 13, 2010, 10:45:52 pm
Quote from: Lincoln
David Mason did Pools Of Bethesda in't pass yesterday.

Beast!! How many ascents has this had now?

Higg
Malc
Simpson
Danny C
Pete R
Nodder
Mason

Think thats it?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on September 13, 2010, 10:52:20 pm
I'm sure there's another :whistle:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Monolith on September 13, 2010, 11:22:13 pm
Think Madams did?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on September 14, 2010, 08:31:07 am
yep dolph's done it, of course
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 14, 2010, 09:20:29 am
I'm sure there's another :whistle:

 :lol: I'd almost forgotten!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on September 14, 2010, 09:56:56 am
Was in the Pass the day of the ascent by said mystery individual, after he did it he ran from the roadside to the top of Snowdon and back down again as a warmdown, what a hero!  Not using chalk in any of the holds was perhaps even more heroic...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on September 14, 2010, 11:09:42 am
not the first time some very hard stuff has been done not using chalk either.
These people are absolute wads - respect!!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 14, 2010, 11:39:25 am
not the first time some very hard stuff has not been done not using chalk either.
These people are absolute wads - respect!!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on September 14, 2010, 12:01:23 pm
just incase the sarcasm doesn't come over on the interweb, cheers jasper
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 14, 2010, 12:04:20 pm
Couldn't resist.  :-[


Good effort Dave by the way! Did you wear leg warmers (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg187103.html#msg187103)?  :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on September 19, 2010, 08:55:19 am
Dave Mason repeated New Noise at Tan Y Grisiau yesterday.  I thought this significant as a number of strong folk have tried this problem, and not managed to get both feet off the ground. 

Also, it was a fair few years ago that I did this, so good effort for the repeat visit to get this done.  Dave did it the original way, but there was others around which lead to the discover of another undercut, which faces in a more desirable direction (not seen this before).  I think it got done with the new hold, and it makes it more like 8a.

You can always trust the youths to find an easier sequence - I'd rather the power ( ;)).

Good effort guys!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on September 19, 2010, 09:57:43 am
Up early c.j.d.

Well done Dave. :thumbsup:

Neil Mawson did the 5th ascent of Bat route at Malham (2nd since loss of holds).  :thumbsup:

He found an easier sequence than Steve. Ascent looked perfunctory.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: benpritch on September 19, 2010, 05:18:24 pm
Mick Adams did 5th? ascent of Keen Roof today. Then did stamina humps, and three other things inc new polish dave 7c and ben's roof. = good day at the tor!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on September 19, 2010, 07:00:56 pm
whats the roll call for adams ascents now then?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 19, 2010, 07:18:28 pm
Steve Townsend repeated Tim Emmett's E10, Muy Caliente yesterday.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy B on September 19, 2010, 07:39:30 pm
whats the roll call for adams ascents now then?

Everything.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on September 19, 2010, 10:46:12 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on September 21, 2010, 05:40:18 pm
There is an anonymous claim (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=96610) of Monks Life last friday on UKC logbooks.

Anyone know anything or is it bogus
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on September 22, 2010, 09:31:30 am
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................   ::)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: habrich on September 22, 2010, 10:48:35 am
Steve Townsend repeated Tim Emmett's E10, Muy Caliente yesterday.

Quote
Townshend, a part-time pilot based in Squamish, Canada, visited the UK for a whistle-stop two days as a detour from his main trip to France.


Had he climbed in the UK before? Remarkable style if not.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chillax on September 22, 2010, 12:46:25 pm
Fastest ascent of an E10?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on September 22, 2010, 01:21:20 pm
Fastest ascent of an E10?

keenus didn't hang around on Equilibrium?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: granticus on September 22, 2010, 06:37:36 pm
'The Machine' has sent The Cider Soak at Anstey's.  (Not significant?  'The Machine' is 14 years old and is from North Devon).   

His younger brother (12 and about 4ft tall!) sent Empire of the Sun on the same day!

Props to them both. :great:

Sorry for lack of names but not sure if they wish to remain anonomous and whether ma n pa would like their names splashed all over the t'internet.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 22, 2010, 06:39:09 pm
Quote
keenus didn't hang around on Equilibrium?

Pretty sure he took longer than that. 3rd session I think?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on September 22, 2010, 06:41:56 pm
yes, 3 sessions iirc
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on September 23, 2010, 02:36:29 pm
Quote from: Lincoln
David Mason did Pools Of Bethesda in't pass yesterday.

Beast!! How many ascents has this had now?

Higg
Malc
Simpson
Danny C
Pete R
Nodder
Mason

Think thats it?



Pretty Sure Ned did it on the 9th Sep, same days as Mr Fantastic as well! Beast!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: yorkshireman on September 23, 2010, 02:39:07 pm
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................   ::)

just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\

anyone who had climbed monk life wouldnt be able to keep their mouth shut for long even if it was just to tell a few mates
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on September 23, 2010, 02:48:40 pm
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................   ::)

just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\


 :'(
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on September 23, 2010, 03:37:28 pm
Yeah Ned did repeat Pools on the same day too! Made the 5 hour round trip worth it!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on September 23, 2010, 05:03:45 pm
Fastest ascent of an E10?

What's an E10?
 :whistle:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on September 23, 2010, 11:52:20 pm
Pretty Sure Ned did it on the 9th Sep, same days as Mr Fantastic as well! Beast!

The problem, or Dave?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: yorkshireman on September 25, 2010, 05:13:21 pm
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................   ::)

just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\


 :'(

if it means anything your video was better than his :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nick B on September 26, 2010, 06:06:01 pm
Dave Mason repeated New Noise at Tan Y Grisiau yesterday.  I thought this significant as a number of strong folk have tried this problem, and not managed to get both feet off the ground. 

Also, it was a fair few years ago that I did this, so good effort for the repeat visit to get this done.  Dave did it the original way, but there was others around which lead to the discover of another undercut, which faces in a more desirable direction (not seen this before).  I think it got done with the new hold, and it makes it more like 8a.

You can always trust the youths to find an easier sequence - I'd rather the power ( ;)).

Good effort guys!

Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on September 27, 2010, 11:09:02 am
Anna Stohr does The Riverbed, nice!

http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/anna-stohr-is-2nd-woman-in-the-world-to-climb-confirmed-8b (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/anna-stohr-is-2nd-woman-in-the-world-to-climb-confirmed-8b)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tobym on September 27, 2010, 11:16:23 am
Fastest ascent of an E10?

What's an E10?
 :whistle:

maybe if Birkett had done the repeat, it might not have been, project looked pretty hard on Welsh Connections (still my favourite DVD ;))
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: tc on September 27, 2010, 01:41:47 pm
Fastest ascent of an E10?

Forgive the grumpy old man rant, but...I AM a grumpy old man. It's all fucking bollocks, this big E-grade stuff. Most are extensively rehearsed, so the outcome is largely assured, the gear is left in place, the route climbed, then a huge E-number is attached to what is basically a sport climb, which is the cue for sponsors and ignorant sycophants to line up to suck the hero's dick. Trad grades should be used only for trad climbs done in a trad manner.
Fucking hell, I feel better for that.  :)
Now where did I put my flameproof cardigan?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on September 27, 2010, 06:37:52 pm
Correct but then they are a fair hypothetical estimate of what it would be like to trad climb such trad climbs in a trad manner, in the context of a system which is extrapolated from the bulk of trad climbs done in a trad manner...

Admittedly it will be a happy day when onsighting is the default for top-end trad repeats as well as standard ones.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on September 28, 2010, 10:08:13 am
Correct but then they are a fair hypothetical estimate of what it would be like to trad climb such trad climbs in a trad manner, in the context of a system which is extrapolated from the bulk of trad climbs done in a trad manner...

Admittedly it will be a happy day when onsighting is the default for top-end trad repeats as well as standard ones.

Off topic discussion continued in Chuffing here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16003.0.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris05 on September 28, 2010, 10:11:07 am
According to Tim Emmett:

"Dave MacLeod got the third ascent of Muy Caliente! on Sunday :-) Dave Pickford got some brilliant pictures - watch this space! Dave agrees with the grade"
(facebook)

Sounds like another quick ascent. The speed at which Dave repeats stuff south of the border makes me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Grubes on September 28, 2010, 11:00:19 am
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris05 on September 28, 2010, 11:41:47 am
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.

Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave and Sonny Trotter did two or three different versions including Dave's. The consensus seemed to be that Dave's version was a bit eliminate (something he didn't disagree with). I was bouldering at Dumbarton while Steve and Sonny etc were trying Dave's route and it made exciting viewing, eliminate or not!

I guess its just the difference between new routing (not knowing if its even possible) and repeating a climb.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris_j_s on September 28, 2010, 11:51:41 am
Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave


Steve gave that suggestion short shrift though. It boiled down to him going for the same hold but with the left instead of right hand (or the other way around I can't remember exactly) which, to my mind, starts to look like Dave just used a slightly duff sequence!  :-\
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: chris05 on September 28, 2010, 11:56:25 am
Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave


Steve gave that suggestion short shrift though. It boiled down to him going for the same hold but with the left instead of right hand (or the other way around I can't remember exactly) which, to my mind, starts to look like Dave just used a slightly duff sequence!  :-\

ahh fair enough, probably best not to get back into that debate, we're not on ukc after all  :P
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on September 28, 2010, 12:27:34 pm
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Didn't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions?

I'm pretty sure he did it on his second Redpoint attempt. Let's be fair though, he's climbed 9a+, and Rhapsody is 8c?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on September 29, 2010, 10:20:20 am
Quote
Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged

In the intrest of concensus what grade did they think it might be then?   
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richard Sharpe on September 29, 2010, 06:46:22 pm
Quote
Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged

In the intrest of concensus what grade did they think it might be then?   

I believe Leo has said he thinks it could be anywhere from 7b+ to 7c+ due to the fact that when he did it he was injured, tired and climbing badly. But he is the strongest man alive so I'm not sure if that is a fair analysis. I would say it is one of the hardest climbs I've done but would say definitely no harder than 8a maybee  even 7c+ with the slightly different hold but I'm really not the person to grade it as I've never climbed 8a, I'm gonna say 7c+ now.
I also have to say the original sequence is very hard and watching Dave mason climb it this way was amazing, I couldn't even pull on this way and he made it look easy, beast.

Best some other wads get on it with the new knowledge and let's us know what they think I'd certainly like a second opinion
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on September 29, 2010, 08:34:08 pm
Cheers for the reply, got to give si as many headaches as possible for the second edition.  Its my job. Should be easy with feedback like 7b+/7c+.   Good effort by the way. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richard Sharpe on September 29, 2010, 09:28:00 pm
Glad to be of service, id go with 7c+ seems to me to be about right
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: r-man on September 30, 2010, 02:55:25 am
Just found out Polish Dave did Keen Roof about a week ago. Very pleased for him - it's been an epic!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 30, 2010, 11:42:55 pm
Word on the Street is that the car lifting crusher from Blackpool repeated 'At the heart of it all' a few weeks back.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 30, 2010, 11:44:46 pm
Word on the Street is that the car lifting crusher from Blackpool repeated 'At the heart of it all' a few weeks back.

 :jaw:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on September 30, 2010, 11:51:55 pm
Just sent a confirmation request to the big gay fecker.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on October 02, 2010, 04:44:47 pm
nodders take what richard says with a pinch of salt. he's never climbed 8a cos he's never tried one. he one-arms tiny holds to warm up, he's just miffed since he's tiny. he is also very very strong as is leo, wait a minute... as for leo being injured dave has just confirmed he was, yet still had the best days climbing of his life
dave says hi
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on October 02, 2010, 05:05:59 pm
Don't worry, we have a gritter with CJD at the helm, I  assumed their were no 8a's left in the peak by now and that was why he hadn't done one. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on October 04, 2010, 09:13:17 pm
has this been reported ?

impressive makes it look like a path

Magnus Midtboe - Ali-Hulk Sit+extension (http://www.vimeo.com/15519978)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on October 04, 2010, 09:51:30 pm
what a fucking beast!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on October 04, 2010, 10:00:26 pm
has this been reported ?
impressive makes it look like a path

Cracking effort but you've lost the plot a bit if you go to Rodellar and end up in the Alibaba cave..
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on October 04, 2010, 10:33:54 pm
Cracking effort but you've lost the plot a bit if you go to Rodellar and end up in the Alibaba cave..

He also onsighted 10 8a+s, 4 8b/+s and one 8b+ and did Los Borrachos de Mascun whilst he was there, so I imagine that he got a feel for the place as a whole.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on October 04, 2010, 10:36:40 pm
F*ck me, thats not a bad ticklist.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on October 05, 2010, 08:28:35 am
New Noise 7c+ (or possibly 7b+).  Good effort guys, this took me a while.  The 'original' sequence last time I looked was the only sequence, so I'm going to check out this other 'smaller' hold soon.

Its great to see psyched people checking out these lines - they've been around for a while now.  We are being a bit weary in these parts right now as there is a handful of popular problems (cave through to the pass) and a few hidden gems that have been altered dramatically.  It does make you wonder.

No finger pointed at the guys who repeated New Noise here - I find that chippers are generally pretty week, and probably never get the deed done anyway - shame.  OR, a may have missed a sequence!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: superfurrymonkey on October 05, 2010, 07:57:04 pm
Which problems have been altered Chris?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on October 15, 2010, 10:16:14 am
Sorry - a bit late on this one!

* Jerry's Roof.  Crux hold is totally different and not due to weathering.  Now 7b+.
* Bus Stop.  Huge chip on the third hold.  This was a sloper, now in-cut.  Again 7b/+.
*Beatitudes Kiss.  New hold and improved crimp on this.
*Possibly New Noise.  I've not looked at this, but from asking around others who have tried, there   
  where only two undercuts, and no other obvious choice.

Plus various others...  Its a shame this, and if their is a singular person out there doing the deed, please desist at risk of ruining more classics which you probably still fail on either way.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 15, 2010, 10:18:38 am
*Possibly New Noise.  I've not looked at this, but from asking around others who have tried, there   
  where only two undercuts, and no other obvious choice.

Didn't notice any other when i was at this problem in June. I believe me, i had a good look around.
As for the others.  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 15, 2010, 10:40:19 am
Fucking hell, that's shocking.  :spank:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Snoops on October 15, 2010, 11:17:23 am
Fucking hell, that's shocking.  :spank:

I really don't get it. I can (just) about get my head round the thought process of some dick/ignoramus  chipping an unclimbed project (still outrageous) in order to have some false glory.

BUT I even more can't understand why someone who obviously shouldn't be completely fucking ignorant if their climbing in the 7's would want to chip a problem in order to tick it............
How do they get any fun/satisfaction/ambition/fulfillment out of ticking a problem they obviously wanted to do badly after they have fucking ruined it.

Fucking cunts it pisses me off

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: csurfleet on October 15, 2010, 11:27:15 am
Diiiicks, a couple of problems I was really looking forward to getting strong enough for there, instant psychesmotherage  :furious:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: turnipturned on October 15, 2010, 11:35:48 am
You recon this will change Mr. Fantastic? Going this weekend anyway so report back on monday on the damage!
But for now I am off for a cry  :'(
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on October 15, 2010, 11:54:01 am
Don't worry this is all been the same for at least 6 months. Maybe we are wrong and it is just wear and tear, but the left hand end of the crimp on bus stop used to have a spike on it that you caught with your first two fingers then crimped up on if you so desired, now there seems to be an indent into the hold about an inch or so long.  The whole hold is about a packet of rizzlas away from the rock now and sounds hollow.  It is much more positive than it was I think.  The upshot of it all is that its easier than it was.  As for Jerry's Pinch the top of that is now flat and quite positive, again could be wear and tear but there are two groves either side of the flat bit.  Again I think it makes it easier, people at the roof disagreed with me the other day though, so who knows?  What I do know is that I dont need my feet to do the move anymore and I certainly did before...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richard Sharpe on October 15, 2010, 02:45:20 pm
*Possibly New Noise.  I've not looked at this, but from asking around others who have tried, there   
  where only two undercuts, and no other obvious choice.

the hold on new noise definately wasn't an obvious choice, dave mason didn't spot it either on the same day as Leo found it, it actually feels worse than the other hold and to me almost felt like it was useless (untill you actually pulled on maybee no one thought it was usable as it is alot smaller, especially when there is a bigger more obvious hold to use) it also felt and looked like it's been there for a long time but I could be completely wrong. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on October 15, 2010, 03:11:46 pm
Put a bit about this on the dyno thread but thought it was worth putting here too.

Dave Gater nabbed what is believed to be the second ascent of Iberia Sit Start in Navalossa, Spain. It involves thin, technical climbing into a mammoth dyno and given 8a+. He nearly flashed the dyno (8a) but did it second go. As soon as he'd worked out the sit moves he sent the SDS in a few goes. Amazing to watch. I have footage of the send but can't upload for a while. Will do as soon as I can. Here's a teaser (sorry the photo is so large, can't reduce it):

(http://pdvoag.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p4GsksgE3a3tEQnCVkhpgzPlXIWA5ATM4XFfMctbfwNlBRF2Pq9wv4UYNpxEl3F3gKihzQIiXfk2zFVOKLXY5P2KpGIjxn6Cu/IMG_1022.jpg?psid=1)

Oh yeah, he also flashed an 8a dyno called Turbo Kleenex in Albarracin and did a couple of other 8a dynos in a few goes!  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on October 15, 2010, 03:48:48 pm
He looks like a guy we met in Mello in May.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 15, 2010, 04:40:01 pm
if the dyno start hold is the one by his feet, hand hold to hand hold that must be about 8 feet.(240cm). pretty mahoosive
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on October 15, 2010, 04:52:22 pm
He looks like a guy we met in Mello in May.

Think it was. He's been about a bit!

if the dyno start hold is the one by his feet, hand hold to hand hold that must be about 8 feet.(240cm). pretty mahoosive

Yeah it 's the one by his feet. The one he did in Czech is quite a bit bigger I think
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: El Mocho on October 15, 2010, 04:57:09 pm
Pete did Sea of Tranquillity this morning, sounds pretty hard. Is this the second ascent? (Neil Carsons ascent?)

"the hardest climb I have ever done"

I guess if this is harder than LA then it must be top top 8c! He does like to pick them.

Well done throbber
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on October 15, 2010, 05:02:34 pm
Good skills.   
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Pantontino on October 15, 2010, 06:15:58 pm
Is this the second ascent? (Neil Carsons ascent?)

I think the photo caption in the old guide was a mistake - I'm pretty sure it's the second ascent.

Fine effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on October 15, 2010, 09:06:02 pm
I also think it was a mistake.

Awesome repeat!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 20, 2010, 09:20:42 am
Not sure if I've missed it being reported anywhere on here but I see (via Dobbin on Twitter and 8a.twat) that our own Mr Mason has climbed 8B in Switzerland (Permanent Midnight @ Fionnay).

Top effort! (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx%3FSearchType%3DASCENTS%26CragName%3DFionnay%26AscentName%3Dpermanent+midnight%26AscentType%3D1)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: lukeyboy on October 21, 2010, 08:17:04 am
Adam Pustlenik from Poland repeated Action Directe http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/10/20/adam/ (http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/10/20/adam/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: petercrimp on October 21, 2010, 05:09:02 pm
Adam Pustelnik
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on October 21, 2010, 06:55:28 pm
Michele Caminati repeats the island, think he might have downgraded it as well, looks like its now 50/50 8b+/8c
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on October 21, 2010, 07:49:13 pm
Is that from the original start or the Big Island version?  Nice one either way.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on October 21, 2010, 08:29:46 pm
the dave way  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 22, 2010, 02:00:27 pm
Ryan has just flashed Knockin’ on Heavens Door after watching Nige’s successful headpoint! Effort beasts!  :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on October 22, 2010, 02:08:39 pm
Jeebus.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on October 22, 2010, 02:19:24 pm
Good work!  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on October 22, 2010, 02:22:07 pm
Skills  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2010, 02:35:14 pm
Thus outdating JB's article almost immediately.

Great work.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on October 22, 2010, 03:22:19 pm
Ye gads  :jaw:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on October 22, 2010, 03:24:32 pm
Proper  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: remus on October 22, 2010, 03:47:53 pm
What a machine.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: csurfleet on October 22, 2010, 04:06:21 pm
Woaaah  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stu Littlefair on October 22, 2010, 05:03:11 pm
I guess that's what it sounds like when your chin hits the floor.
Fucking hell.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on October 22, 2010, 05:10:03 pm
that guy's on
(http://cdn.7static.com/static/img/sleeveart/00/002/974/0000297424_350.jpg)


Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Probes on October 22, 2010, 05:36:30 pm
Oouff. Crikes. Great stuff.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richard Sharpe on October 22, 2010, 10:06:01 pm
is this the first flash of an E9?
amazing effort, cant believe anyone would think about trying something like that without practice! just shows the level Ryan is working at (well above almost everyone i guess)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on October 22, 2010, 10:16:50 pm
is this the first flash of an E9?

Assuming its still E9 after the event then it might be.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richard Sharpe on October 22, 2010, 10:17:18 pm
 :beer2:
some stuff says E8??? either way E8 flashes aren't very common
he will probably say it was easy and not scary at all, but i wont take his word for it and go jumping straight on!!!! beast
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on October 23, 2010, 01:24:44 am
er no, he said he was scared. I thought it was e10? ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richard Sharpe on October 23, 2010, 09:27:34 am
Origionaly given e9/e10 but I think after a Few ascents and some falls onto the gear it's considered E8 maybe E9 if you place the peg on the lead ( think you have to do another start or something to do that and that may be another route or am I thinking of something else??)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 23, 2010, 10:15:20 am
I know Nige was planning to place the pegs on lead and I dare say Ryan will have done the same with the beta. You don't have to do the LH start (as per Born Slippy) to get the gear in. You do the route the original way and make a traverse left to reach down and place the lower gear (peg and friend). The lower gear is good but low, the higher peg (which you can reach whichever way you do it) is so so but at a better height.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on October 23, 2010, 10:24:59 am
Let's not forget that, grade aside, he climbed a serious route with this much history and fame/infamy, bottom to top, first go.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 23, 2010, 10:55:15 am
Word to that. Standards are certainly moving on, even if the grades aren't.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nigel on October 23, 2010, 11:33:37 am
Just to clarify, as the situation with this route is not cut and dried as with most routes. We started up Knockin', made a short traverse left to the bomber gear in a hole just beneath the lip (which Born Slippy climbs a variant start to reach, not really required), then came back along the traverse and finished as per usual, hand-placing a peg on the way (on lead). I believe Alex Honnold headpointed the route a similar way although without the hand-placed pegs and reckoned E8 6c. Both myself and Ryan think that is about right. You could argue that should the hand-placed peg hold then its more like E7 6c, but its far from a certainty and its probably sensible to assume it will rip, hence the back-up plan of the Born Slippy gear, which would almost certainly prevent a groundfall with a decent belay. Also, for the hypothetical "onsight" (an unlikely prospect) you would not be able to "guess" what type of peg to place, or how to place it. You may also be too short - its the limit of my reach, I'm 5'9". As you can probably tell I spent a lot of time trying to make this route as safe as possible and think this makes for a fairly sensible way of doing the route. As per usual with some of these hard grit routes the biggest obstacle to the flash/onsight/ground up is the wierd or hard to place gear (as happened on Braille Trail). Ryan certainly wouldn't have tried to flash it without the good low gear, although the way to reach it isn't obvious. It was a fantastic effort by Ryan, especially given his recent grit experiences, i.e. none! (think this might have been his 2nd time on grit since last winter).

It would maybe be E9 or 10 to solo onsight but who's going to go for that?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on October 23, 2010, 11:48:37 am
Kudos to you both  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on October 23, 2010, 11:52:43 am
He's such a talented all round wad. 8c+ crimpy lime and E8 slab flashes!  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richard Sharpe on October 23, 2010, 01:04:57 pm
Cool seems to have cleared that up, top effort to both you guys, sounds like a pretty serious route. You say no ground fall but let's not forget with such big falls ropes and gear can and does fail, and I'm guessing from the consumed footage it wouldn't be a very nice fall anyway. Well done guys. Keep on crushing, I'm sure everyone is now expecting big things this winter after such a good start, this and end of the affair getting three ascents in an hour!!!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on October 23, 2010, 01:16:01 pm
i was belaying the fall in consumed. Nver wore those trousers again......
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on October 23, 2010, 01:19:25 pm
Very wise, they clashed with your top.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on October 23, 2010, 03:23:25 pm
Good report nige. Sounds like the optimum balanced way to do the route.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: topcat on October 23, 2010, 08:38:21 pm
Tim Palmer did Keen Roof today. Took him two sessions.  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: aly on October 23, 2010, 09:33:40 pm
Brilliant effort  ;D 
Just to confirm what Nigel said, when Honnold got home after doing Knockin' he said he wasn't too sure exactly where it went so he climbed the arete of Elder Crack up to the slot on the lip (which seemed logical to him with no topo), placed the Born Slippy gear and then climbed up the slab from there with no more gear.  The gear is good and he reckoned it was totally 'safe' with that gear, which is what I reckoned too (not that it would make the fall any less of a 'brown trouser moment').  I'd always assumed that the Born Slippy gear was out for the true line of "Knockin'" but as you say, it's a bit of weird one given the various gear permutations available. 

Getting the peg in felt very hard (also 5' 9", would have given my favourite beanie for a few more inches!), and it wobbled all over the place.  You also have to do the moves up to there above just the sideways pecker (this was the original 6c crux before the hold went wasn't it?).  Awesome to see it flashed in whatever way, must have been intense!  Very very impressive  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 24, 2010, 10:29:02 am
Tim Palmer did Keen Roof today. Took him two sessions.  :bow:

Keen Roof (8B), Raven Tor - Tim Palmer (http://www.vimeo.com/16126407)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: GCW on October 24, 2010, 10:31:17 am
Shirley no match, no tick?  :lol:

Made it look easy.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on October 24, 2010, 07:33:20 pm
Nice one palmstrong!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cowboyhat on October 25, 2010, 07:44:49 pm
This must be the most popular 8B in the country. Eight ascents?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on October 26, 2010, 12:59:31 pm
Yeah, yeah, 8b, whatever  :yawn:. What about the real big news repeat at the Tor? Stone finally got up Bodybuilder!  :bow:
Makes Andy F look like an amateur siege monkey.
Excellent report here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=430503 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=430503)











P.S. Effort Tim, only joking about keen roof.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on October 26, 2010, 01:22:12 pm
Excellent. Sums up Stone very well.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 26, 2010, 06:00:39 pm
thats what i call tenacity. great effort
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: RockArchivist on October 27, 2010, 11:08:25 pm
Just thought it's worth saying that Andy Pollitt talks at some length about the FA of KOHD in one of his interviews on the RockArchivist web site and gripping stuff it sounds as well.

His FA claim is also in the Stoney 1987 new route book if you're interested. Born Slippy and Ben Tetler's solo are in other books also on the site.

Phil
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: RockArchivist on October 28, 2010, 01:18:35 pm
Dunno if this can be embedded in a post, but I just opened it up to UKB for your perusal and hopefully enjoyment:


http://player.vimeo.com/video/14506636 (http://player.vimeo.com/video/14506636)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on October 28, 2010, 01:20:37 pm
This is a private video on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/14506636)

You need to paste the link to the exact page at which it is hosted on Vimeo without the 'player' or 'video' part of the URL.  Just pasting in the following is how the above is embedded..

Code: [Select]
http://vimeo.com/14506636

EDIT : Correcting myself
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: RockArchivist on October 28, 2010, 01:30:33 pm
Top effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 02, 2010, 06:11:24 pm
Southern Belle by Stanhope and Honnold http://rockandice.com/news/1227-honnold-and-stanhope-send-half-domes-spooky-southern-belle (http://rockandice.com/news/1227-honnold-and-stanhope-send-half-domes-spooky-southern-belle)  sounds absolutely terrifying  some more info on the route here http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hey-Coz-Sure-would-like-to-hear-the-story-of-Southern-Belle/t271n.html (http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hey-Coz-Sure-would-like-to-hear-the-story-of-Southern-Belle/t271n.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on November 02, 2010, 10:37:08 pm
Southern Belle by Stanhope and Honnold http://rockandice.com/news/1227-honnold-and-stanhope-send-half-domes-spooky-southern-belle (http://rockandice.com/news/1227-honnold-and-stanhope-send-half-domes-spooky-southern-belle)  sounds absolutely terrifying  some more info on the route here http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hey-Coz-Sure-would-like-to-hear-the-story-of-Southern-Belle/t271n.html (http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hey-Coz-Sure-would-like-to-hear-the-story-of-Southern-Belle/t271n.html)

The supertopo thread is really worth reading - great contributions from Scott Cosgrove (coz), first free ascentionist, and Hank Caylor who broke both ankles falling off it.

Alex Honnold: "It's just like Snake Dike but more extreme."
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: match on November 03, 2010, 04:56:12 pm
Lucinda Whittaker ticks End of the Affair - respect!   :thumbsup:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58675 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58675)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 05, 2010, 11:40:57 am
Just saw on the Scarpa site that Martin Smith has done Brownian Motion without the arete toe hook, this bloc is amazing looking, and not a long walk from the car, all you beasts should get to it!  http://www.scarpa.co.uk/team/blogs.asp?TeamID=7 (http://www.scarpa.co.uk/team/blogs.asp?TeamID=7)

(http://www.scarpa.co.uk/Library/Image/P1010436_(2)1.JPG)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: galpinos on November 05, 2010, 11:48:38 am
Looks good.

(Off Topic - Rich Simpson seems to have disappeared from their team)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: TomP on November 05, 2010, 12:09:11 pm
Wow! Good effort Martin. This was an amazing project. The crimp with his right hand is pathetic!
Grade?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Percy B on November 05, 2010, 12:59:30 pm
(Off Topic - Rich Simpson seems to have disappeared from their team)

And also off the Wild Country team.........

So not really off topic - Wild Country have just repeated Scarpa's most recent problem..........
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on November 05, 2010, 01:03:50 pm
Nice one Bingley Beast! Looks brutal even with the toe-hook.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on November 09, 2010, 01:27:18 pm
No mention of a Skin and Wishbones flash? News being held back for the mags p'raps? Only heard this second hand but if true, it must be one of the hardest flashes ont grit, no?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on November 09, 2010, 01:33:17 pm
What's Skin and Wishbones??
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 09, 2010, 01:35:37 pm
No mention of a Skin and Wishbones flash? News being held back for the mags p'raps? Only heard this second hand but if true, it must be one of the hardest flashes ont grit, no?

By who? Up there with Barrans flash of Groove is in the heart.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on November 09, 2010, 01:40:11 pm
What's Skin and Wishbones??

Its the Bransby route left of Parallologism, Roaches.

ps. amazingly fine effort. Who is the hero?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on November 09, 2010, 01:44:15 pm
OK, wow!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 09, 2010, 01:48:31 pm
Who, when? Impressive indeed. Presumably not being confused with Ryan's recent flash of Paralogism?

(http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/img/pixel.gif)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on November 09, 2010, 01:52:10 pm
God, I made a mess of that spelling didn't I.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on November 09, 2010, 02:01:19 pm
Who, when? Impressive indeed. Presumably not being confused with Ryan's recent flash of Paralogism?

(http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/img/pixel.gif)

Exactly to be confused - yes. Sorry  :-[
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nigel on November 09, 2010, 02:02:34 pm
Ryan flashed Paralogism with gear in Skin & Wishbones (possible source of confusion), Chinese whispers strikes!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on November 09, 2010, 02:04:07 pm
Indeed, hence my tentative heard it second hand!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 09, 2010, 02:21:37 pm
 :lol: Here he is.

(http://c.photoshelter.com/img-get/I00007.38EO1Pyxk/s/860/860/AL-cli10-1999.jpg) (http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/image?&_bqG=1&_bqH=eJwrL_cJD8sIT_f1d_Z1KgkyLw3Oc9J1N8kxLM62MrIyNbAyNAACK894l2Bn26LKxDw1z_jQYNegeE8X21CQlGGGkaWhk5tZgUW.Wryjc4htcWpiUXIGAKSkGmI-&GI_ID=)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: jcm on November 09, 2010, 02:28:38 pm
Awesome. Doesn't seem to be much room for Antithesis to his right - that groove is Bed of Nails, right?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on November 09, 2010, 02:32:49 pm
I had a look (from the ground I might add) at Antithesis the other day and it looks as though you need to climb up, round and down to get the side runner in. Unless ppl are now bouldering directly up to and relying on that one small letterbox slot. Either way, it looks like a v fall-offable route.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: jcm on November 09, 2010, 04:03:49 pm
Judging by this picture

http://www.ukc2.com/images/dbpage.html?id=104600 (http://www.ukc2.com/images/dbpage.html?id=104600)

you just climb up to the top of Bed of Nails and place your side runner there. Or are you talking about another side runner?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on November 09, 2010, 04:09:01 pm
that's what I mean. It's more of a top rope than a side runner really
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: jcm on November 09, 2010, 04:18:46 pm
Yes. All a bit Sunday at Chapel. Seems to be a local tradition.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: jakes on November 10, 2010, 09:59:59 am

By who? Up there with Barrans flash of Groove is in the heart.


I've heard/read that Groove is in the Heart is now regarded by some as being 7C+ due to a different sequence being used. Nonetheless, still a good effort.

From carlisle slappers blog:

Quote

My sequence was much easier than Mike’s (i did the moves on mikes sequence and i’d have definitely given it 8A+ if i’d used that) That said the boulder is generally exholdiating so i can see this problem changing grades alot if it gets lots of attention over coming years. For the sequence i used (will put a video up when i get a decent connection) i’d feel bad taking more than 7C+ for it.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on November 10, 2010, 10:03:58 am
Different Groove is in the Heart's - one in Cornwall, one on grit.

Edit: Plus I think Dave onsighted Little Women, not Groove.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nigel on November 10, 2010, 10:11:36 am
Was it even Groove Is In The Heart (Hamper's Hang bit of Stanage to save confusion)? I knew he flashed Little Women, which is just to the left, but didn't hear about this one. Possible mix up (again!)?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on November 10, 2010, 10:17:59 am
Yep. More mixing up. Barrans flashed Little Women. I believe Bransby did Groove is in the heart ground up. Which probably is Font 7c+ as well...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on November 10, 2010, 10:22:10 am
I think Bransby's mum was belaying him too. Legend.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on November 10, 2010, 10:23:32 am
Geez, call yourselves professional news reporters? :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mark s on November 10, 2010, 02:16:12 pm
Nice one ryan.
Would imagine nadin used that gear.
I belayed ben on it a few years ago with adam on camera duty.ben climbed out of the route pretty much mid crux to place a runner and reversed back then carried on up.must have made it harder for himself,but he strolled it anyway.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 10, 2010, 05:20:48 pm
Quote
I think Bransby's mum was belaying him too. Legend.

She was indeed. Here they are:

(http://c.photoshelter.com/img-get/I0000qALUQMF8zqA/s/860/860/AL-cli10-BBGr.jpg) (http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/image?&_bqG=0&_bqH=eJyzTE3xzsrxKwssCyiOqirxT7FMK_ZIN3NzdzexMjSxMjWwMjQAAivPeJdgZ9ukosS84qRK7VRzNc_40GDXoHhPF9tQkALDDCNLQyc3swKLfLV4R.cQ2.LUxKLkDACH6Bzr&GI_ID=)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on November 10, 2010, 05:37:07 pm
http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/young.html (http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/young.html)

That looks incredible! Good effort!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: richieb on November 10, 2010, 06:32:19 pm
Agreed. That looks stunning.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on November 10, 2010, 06:50:58 pm
Was Klem spotting too??

(For Groove, not for The Young).

Young sounds great, photo of the block looks awesome.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nik at work on November 10, 2010, 07:00:05 pm
http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/young.html (http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/young.html)

That looks incredible! Good effort!
That looks properly good.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: gme on November 10, 2010, 09:02:31 pm
Best peice of rock in gods county and therfore the world.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on November 10, 2010, 09:28:19 pm
 
Best peice of rock in gods county and therfore the world.
:bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: lukeyboy on November 10, 2010, 09:38:05 pm
The Young looks just unbelievable  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: topcat on November 10, 2010, 10:14:48 pm
I thought those things looked like fossilized tree stumps. It's bloody hard to find the first time you go in there. Lovely piece of rock. Fancy a trip down there Will - now you've decided your finger's not buggered after all?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on November 13, 2010, 12:15:21 pm
looks like Koyamada has just repeated big paw another of dave grahams swizzy 8c's if he posted on here i'm sure he'd have plenty of positive karma  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mark s on November 13, 2010, 02:20:30 pm
News direct from the crag-tom and pete have soloed rays roof!!!!! Nutters
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on November 13, 2010, 02:29:43 pm
Waddage to Dai, Tommy, and Pete. Do you know if they fell off at all? Surely landing on their heads would've knocked some sense into them.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 13, 2010, 02:32:58 pm
Waddage to Dai, Tommy, and Pete. Do you know if they fell off at all? Surely landing on their heads would've knocked some sense into them.

They said they planned to use a few pads, not sure if they fell though. Fine effort boys.  8)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on November 13, 2010, 02:41:27 pm
Yeah I know about the pads. I was using one until last night, when I had to give it up  :'(  I think Ned had the other one. They're brill pads. Absolutely massive. Shame they don't make them for real  :(
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 13, 2010, 05:47:42 pm
Another E8 flash for Ryan today. Slab and crack this time. Time for an E9 i think!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on November 13, 2010, 06:21:12 pm
i'd give him e9 for knockin'.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on November 13, 2010, 07:27:45 pm
I always thought Slab and Crack one of the most under-rated of Johnny's grit routes in terms of both difficulty and quality. I'd guess its still had far fewer  ascents than EOTA/Gaia - though I might be very out of touch on that. Fine effort from Ryan. The fact that we can still be excited by on-site/ground-up ascents of these routes nearly a quarter of a century after they were first climbed is a true testament.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on November 13, 2010, 08:01:28 pm
I hope that "on-site" was deliberate Mr Popp.

Excellent effort.

(Ryan who? :))
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on November 13, 2010, 08:05:47 pm
The fact that we can still be excited by on-site/ground-up ascents of these routes nearly a quarter of a century after they were first climbed is a true testament.

I think its more like there's a new excitement about these routes because of the new style that Ryan and people are climbing them in. I do wonder what Ryan is actually capable of. Inspiring stuff.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: AndiT on November 13, 2010, 08:26:45 pm
Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker both SOLO'd Ray's Roof today  :jaw:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/5172208145/#in/photostream/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/5172208145/#in/photostream/)

Pete then flashed Crocs at Ramshaw  :o
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on November 13, 2010, 08:30:51 pm
Yes, the 'still' was misplaced and unnecessary. It should have been simply 'the fact that we are excited ... etc.' The style is new, despite the fact the routes are 24 years old. That's the point. Doubly inspiring, then and now.

Try this test, would we have been excited by a flash of Cenotaph Corner in 1976 or of Lord in 2003?

And, Chris, oops.

Reply to Cofe obviously, Andi posted meanwhile.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on November 13, 2010, 08:36:16 pm
I thought that's what you meant. It's brilliant stuff.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on November 13, 2010, 08:45:01 pm
Pete then flashed Crocs at Ramshaw  :o

It was well impressive
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Falling Down on November 13, 2010, 08:50:18 pm
Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker both SOLO'd Ray's Roof today  :jaw:
Pete then flashed Crocs at Ramshaw  :o

Briliant  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mark s on November 14, 2010, 07:42:09 am
Onsighted crocs andi come on :-) I've never seen anyone climb on like that when he was ready give up.bloody amazing.
Pete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on November 14, 2010, 11:39:31 am
int slab and crack e7 in latest guide. I believe its supposed to be top end though  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on November 14, 2010, 12:34:35 pm
Pete Robins E7. A few people with direct experience of it thought E8. Still, it's Curbar.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on November 14, 2010, 12:36:58 pm
Neil Mawson did it recently too, said hard e7.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on November 14, 2010, 12:58:38 pm
There are certainly easier E8s out there, but whatever the grade it's mighty impressive to have done those top moves first go. Very tasty.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 14, 2010, 08:05:25 pm
Quote
Pete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches

Woooahhh, big news! Any more details?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on November 14, 2010, 08:16:16 pm
Quote
Pete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches

Woooahhh, big news! Any more details?

Some commentary and a photo added to the Borg's article (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58856) on Pasquill doing Slab and Crackl
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on November 14, 2010, 08:35:40 pm
Pete Robins E7. A few people with direct experience of it thought E8. Still, it's Curbar.

For what its worth, I thought it probably deserved the 8
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mark s on November 14, 2010, 09:05:23 pm
Quote
Pete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches

Woooahhh, big news! Any more details?

he's been wanting it for a while now,he was going to head down to ready brek after.he's very close to that.
wont be the last time you will read his name.he has got a younger brother who's as strong as fuck as well.
me and the dick with 2 dogs were at newstones so missed the action but the carrier pigeon soon reached us
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on November 14, 2010, 09:16:27 pm
That's cool Mark. Always wondered about that how since you guys I wasn't aware of one new climber from Leek. Would be great to see some new blood there. You know what that means? That you and Andi are the new Colin FFord and Gary Cooper. ;D
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on November 14, 2010, 09:46:10 pm
That you and Andi are the new Colin FFord and Gary Cooper. ;D

Grimer, you bastard, that is some mantle to have to carry.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on November 14, 2010, 10:28:48 pm
It's time for those boys to step up their game  ;D

Whataboutya mucker?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: luckyjez on November 15, 2010, 12:46:47 pm
Pete Robins E7. A few people with direct experience of it thought E8. Still, it's Curbar.

For what its worth, I thought it probably deserved the 8

Andy, I can clearly remember your spectacular barn door of the last hard move well above the RP, and wondering how far I'd have to run to take in enough rope. Happy days!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy popp on November 15, 2010, 01:09:23 pm
Pete Robins E7. A few people with direct experience of it thought E8. Still, it's Curbar.

For what its worth, I thought it probably deserved the 8

Andy, I can clearly remember your spectacular barn door of the last hard move well above the RP, and wondering how far I'd have to run to take in enough rope. Happy days!

Indeed! My clearest memory of the day is that just as I finished squeaking my boots Neil Foster and Glenn Sutcliffe walked round from under Prophet. It must have been immediately obvious what I was about to try. I distinctly remember saying 'You two can fuck right off!' and they duly obliged - I definitely didn't want an audience.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: BB on November 15, 2010, 01:19:58 pm
Quote
Pete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches

Woooahhh, big news! Any more details?

he's been wanting it for a while now,he was going to head down to ready brek after.he's very close to that.
wont be the last time you will read his name.he has got a younger brother who's as strong as fuck as well.
me and the dick with 2 dogs were at newstones so missed the action but the carrier pigeon soon reached us

Did the ascent happen around lunchtime on Saturday?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mark s on November 15, 2010, 04:32:41 pm
Bb - yeah
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Neil F on November 15, 2010, 05:19:04 pm
Indeed! My clearest memory of the day is that just as I finished squeaking my boots Neil Foster and Glenn Sutcliffe walked round from under Prophet. It must have been immediately obvious what I was about to try. I distinctly remember saying 'You two can fuck right off!' and they duly obliged - I definitely didn't want an audience.

Always happy to oblige!

That's a long time ago, Andy. It must have been the day I led Forbidden Planet (which I'd watched John do the first ascent of back in 1984), and then Glenn walked up Right Eliminate - which was dripping wet - after first declaring "offwidths hold no fear for me".

I remember thinking it was a good example of putting your money where your mouth is!

Neil
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: AndiT on November 16, 2010, 04:46:36 pm
That you and Andi are the new Colin FFord and Gary Cooper. ;D

Grimer, you bastard, that is some mantle to have to carry.

Time to get outta Leek  :'(
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Alex Ekins on November 23, 2010, 09:18:46 pm
I guess that many of you will now know that Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall soloed Ray's Roof last weekend (Pete did it twice)
Here is a link to Pete and Tom writing about their ascent - http://alexekins.co.uk/2010/11/pete-whittaker-and-tom-randall-talk-about-soloing-rays-roof (http://alexekins.co.uk/2010/11/pete-whittaker-and-tom-randall-talk-about-soloing-rays-roof)

Cheers
Alex
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Fiend on November 23, 2010, 09:52:04 pm
I guess that many of you will now know that Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall soloed Ray's Roof last weekend (Pete did it twice)
Here is a link to Pete and Tom writing about their ascent - http://alexekins.co.uk/2010/11/pete-whittaker-and-tom-randall-talk-about-soloing-rays-roof/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/2010/11/pete-whittaker-and-tom-randall-talk-about-soloing-rays-roof/)

Cheers
Alex
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: shark on November 25, 2010, 04:19:05 pm
Don't think this has been mentioned:

http://betaclimbingteam.blogspot.com/ (http://betaclimbingteam.blogspot.com/)

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Thursday, 18 November 2010
have been lucky really as one of the boulders I was trying stays dry in the rain so I could continue to work this. It is called Alphane Moon (8A) and is a really fun climb. Kind of like board climbing on small but positive crimps. It was in varying condition as the low cloud often meant that the holds would be a bit damp but often it was in fairly good nick. It finally succumbed a couple of days ago
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 25, 2010, 05:09:45 pm
Charlie Woodburn has just repeated Walk Of Life.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 25, 2010, 09:06:26 pm
Wow, he must have been wearing a headtorch!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 25, 2010, 09:30:02 pm
Wow, he must have been wearing a headtorch!

Don't get you?  :shrug: Surely you can see i posted that hours ago? Obviously not...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: JohnM on November 25, 2010, 09:41:43 pm
It must have been cold on that slab!  Can't imagine how he didn't get numb toes  :o 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 25, 2010, 09:52:25 pm
I forgot to say good effort, cold day for a long pitch!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on November 26, 2010, 09:19:33 am
Paul Robinson has repeated dreamtime
http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/ (http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on November 26, 2010, 10:16:22 am
Charlie Woodburn has just repeated Walk Of Life.

Aye caught that on FaceCrack. Awesome Charlie!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on November 28, 2010, 05:29:15 pm
Micky did From Dirt Grows the Flowers yesterday, just before the snow came! Impecable timing!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on November 28, 2010, 07:35:03 pm
Hazel Findlay has done the Bachar-Yerian (http://willstanhope.blogspot.com/), alternating leads with Will Stanhope.  Female ascentionists of the B-Y must be a pretty select club.

Not Hazel:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_xORUcppC1WE/TLnwu_4MM5I/AAAAAAAAAKc/Xb94YL5NDRg/s1600/b-y.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: account_inactive on November 28, 2010, 07:42:33 pm
Micky did From Dirt Grows the Flowers yesterday, just before the snow came! Impecable timing!

Nice one beast
(http://www.cetlot.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/ivan-dobsky-the-meatsafe-murderer.jpeg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on November 28, 2010, 08:10:03 pm
Has he done Ivan Dobsky as well? :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Will Hunt on November 28, 2010, 10:17:50 pm
re: Hazel on the BY:

:o


Can she come back to the UK long term now and tear up some crags on this side of the pond now please?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 28, 2010, 10:23:22 pm
Why the hell would you want to live in the UK if you could just cruse around the states and Canada instead?! 

Go Mickey!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on November 28, 2010, 10:37:01 pm
Good one mickey!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on November 29, 2010, 10:20:11 am
Psyched to see Micky joining the 8c club!  :great:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: turnipturned on November 30, 2010, 10:54:32 am
Nice Mickey
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on November 30, 2010, 10:58:32 am
Ondra & Peg Leg repeat Big Paw (8C) (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/paul-robinson-sends-big-paw-giving-it-8b+)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on November 30, 2010, 11:01:11 am
Vid of Bernard doing From Dirt Grows the Flowers:

fromthedirt09 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfYOORbTa64#ws)

Looks amazing.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 30, 2010, 11:16:39 am
Quote
From the Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C. This problem is in Chironico. It starts with an 8B crimping sequence through some slippery crystals and leads to a hard 8A+ mantle.

from http://www.b3bouldering.com/2008/03/10/switzerland-2/ (http://www.b3bouldering.com/2008/03/10/switzerland-2/)

8A+ mantle?!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on November 30, 2010, 11:24:04 am
Yeah, like the top of Black Dog arete at brimham.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on November 30, 2010, 11:44:28 am
8A+ mantle?!

hard 8A+ Mantle. Unless they mean hard at 8A+ not hard for 8A+
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on November 30, 2010, 03:43:27 pm
8A+ mantle?!

Don't tell BenF, he'll start having wet dreams about it... ;) ;D
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Percy B on November 30, 2010, 09:08:15 pm
Mina's done Franks Wild Years at Cresciano. Dunno if it still gets 8a+ or just 8a, but its BURLY. Nice one, pet!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on November 30, 2010, 09:14:48 pm
Just spotted DTR (monkeyboy) did Vecchia Leone: http://www.moonclimbing.com/Vecchia-Leone-by-David-Mason-n-941.html (http://www.moonclimbing.com/Vecchia-Leone-by-David-Mason-n-941.html)

Apologies if I'm being dense (!) and it's been posted elsewhere. Good effort Dave!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ferret on November 30, 2010, 10:02:16 pm
Quote
8A+ mantle?!

not really a mantle tho is it? in fact not even really a semi mantle, more like an 8a+ rock over on to a large shelf.
hardest mantles i can think of offhand, victorian overmantle 7c/+? and fight club in bishop v11.

mantle or rockover still uberwaddage looks great
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on November 30, 2010, 10:16:04 pm
Mina's done Franks Wild Years at Cresciano. Dunno if it still gets 8a+ or just 8a, but its BURLY. Nice one, pet!
Waddage
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stu Littlefair on November 30, 2010, 10:53:00 pm
Brilliant efforts from both Mina and DTR. The works must be good for something!

Franks is thought 8a IIRC, but proper beef.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on November 30, 2010, 11:30:35 pm
DTR has also done General Disarray, 3 8b's in one trip!  :dance1:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on December 01, 2010, 10:31:09 am
hardest mantles i can think of offhand, victorian overmantle 7c/+? and fight club in bishop v11.

Just about every single problem I do in font?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on December 01, 2010, 10:35:40 am
DTR has also done General Disarray, 3 8b's in one trip!  :dance1:

Go DTR!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Terrace Ghost on December 01, 2010, 12:59:00 pm
[img]/Users/martinsmith/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Modified/2006/day1 swiss/P1010732.JPG/img]
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on December 01, 2010, 01:15:31 pm
Minas hard ascents have taken British women's bouldering to another level. problems like fake pamplemousse, alphane moon and franks are not your average girl problems. They requi
re proper burl.well impressive. I reckon she has an 8a+ in her!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on December 01, 2010, 01:25:12 pm
Ditto, this thread makes for great psych reading.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 01, 2010, 03:22:36 pm
Awesome stuff!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Terrace Ghost on December 01, 2010, 03:24:29 pm
Ondra has just done From Dirt. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on December 01, 2010, 03:43:23 pm
TG if you want to post a photo you'll have to upload it to Flickr or photobucket, etc. first, or maybe link it from your mobileMe gallery if you're a Mac user.

Quote from: OndraWad
I can't call myself an expert in grading boulder problems since I am mostly sport climber, but it felt simply harder than any 8B+ I had done.
Even though he's done as much hard bouldering as anyone else!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Nibile on December 01, 2010, 04:05:23 pm
 :off:
you may be interested in knowing (but you may not...) that "from dirt..." is a quote from a famous italian song by Fabrizio De André, whose last line says "dai diamanti non nasce niente, dal letame nascono i fiori": "from diamonds nothing grows, from dirt grow flowers".
true poetry in my opinion.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Terrace Ghost on December 01, 2010, 04:42:34 pm
TG if you want to post a photo you'll have to upload it to Flickr or photobucket, etc. first, or maybe link it from your mobileMe gallery if you're a Mac user.

Quote from: OndraWad
I can't call myself an expert in grading boulder problems since I am mostly sport climber, but it felt simply harder than any 8B+ I had done.
Even though he's done as much hard bouldering as anyone else!

cheers Stubbs
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on December 01, 2010, 07:50:55 pm
Minas also done Marilyn Monroe ,another 8a :please:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on December 01, 2010, 08:01:56 pm
Quite a holiday ticklist she's putting together for herself!
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D24098%26AscentType%3D1%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0 (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D24098%26AscentType%3D1%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: willackers on December 01, 2010, 10:42:23 pm
Nice one Mina! Effort!  :bow:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ferret on December 02, 2010, 01:21:36 am
hardest mantles i can think of offhand, victorian overmantle 7c/+? and fight club in bishop v11.

Just about every single problem I do in font?

the top outs in font always feel hard if you try and mantle them
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on December 02, 2010, 08:03:54 am
Im not sure if this is getting me psyched, or making me become even more bitter and twisted.  The only thing I've repeated this week is my drive to London (twice) and my drive to Birmingham (twice).

Wish the snow would bugger off, then we could get some new stuff done, to make for even more psyched significant repeating!!  Lucky buggers - well done.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: rjtrials on December 03, 2010, 03:22:22 am
:off:
you may be interested in knowing (but you may not...) that "from dirt..." is a quote from a famous italian song by Fabrizio De André, whose last line says "dai diamanti non nasce niente, dal letame nascono i fiori": "from diamonds nothing grows, from dirt grow flowers".
true poetry in my opinion.

Or from the Buck 65 song "phil"
From storm clouds come angels
let pain give you pleasure
from dirt grows the flower
when faith can't be measured.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Percy B on December 03, 2010, 09:40:16 pm
Dave the Rascist has done La Prou - a very good effort. Well basic, and well hard. Nice work (but I bet that poor boulder has endured all manner of verbal abuse whilst you've been trying it)  ;)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: peewee on December 03, 2010, 09:46:56 pm
Paul Robinson has done Ninja Skills.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on December 04, 2010, 01:56:01 am
as amusing as it is to some people calling dave "dave the racist" isn't particularly funny on a website that is read the world over. people could leap to conclusions, and he does climb in a lot of places.
nice one dave
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on December 04, 2010, 01:56:35 am
sit start
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nodder on December 04, 2010, 10:29:24 am
Wow hes done the sit start to le prou?  Thats an awesome line that.  Pretty hard for 8b though, or maybe you mean without the stone that is sometimes round there?   
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on December 04, 2010, 10:52:48 am
as amusing as it is to some people calling dave "dave the racist" isn't particularly funny on a website that is read the world over. people could leap to conclusions, and he does climb in a lot of places.
nice one dave

Well said Dense. I posted something along these lines a while back. It seemed to have died out, but obviously is back in vogue.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on December 04, 2010, 11:26:25 am
Good effort Dave - what a ticklist!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on December 04, 2010, 12:00:25 pm
I agree, he needs a new nickname. How about Dave The Bigot?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on December 04, 2010, 12:05:08 pm
Sometimes you have to be a bigot to bring down a bigger bigot.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Percy B on December 04, 2010, 01:44:55 pm
Fair comment. I often forget that people other than those who post on here read this.
I quite like Angry Dave instead. Shame I can't change my previous post.....
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: a dense loner on December 05, 2010, 02:26:23 am
i'm all for angry dave percy

sit start was a reference to woodwell, nice one dave sit start. not, in fact, to dave doing a sit start to la prue. he's getting quite good but not that good and its still 2010
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on December 05, 2010, 06:06:48 pm
you mean not bad dave?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on December 06, 2010, 08:04:44 am
Dave on La Prou: http://www.moonclimbing.com/La-Proue-by-David-Mason-n-946.html (http://www.moonclimbing.com/La-Proue-by-David-Mason-n-946.html)

Worth reading those Moon blogs. Nice to see Brits crushing abroad too.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dave on December 06, 2010, 09:00:21 am
Nice one Dave-Definitely-Not-A-Racist.

(http://www.noisetosignal.org/images/posts/ted/rightthere.jpeg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on December 13, 2010, 02:17:45 pm
Robinson has done "From Dirt Grows The Flowers". He did the left finish.
(http://30.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ldd7of9ArD1qcz18qo1_400.jpg)

(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ldd6roASjN1qcz18qo1_r1_400.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on December 13, 2010, 02:19:58 pm
...and one-week to finish off "story" and "confessions" (http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/post/2198385908/psyched-just-did-from-dirt-with-the-left-top)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: The Sausage on December 13, 2010, 05:34:53 pm
What about Dave "static-1-5-9/8b-monster-and-also-sometimes-a-little-bit-irate" Mason? Kind of rolls off the tongue.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on December 13, 2010, 10:37:15 pm
catchy, i like it
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on December 17, 2010, 11:08:52 am
Mick did BIG Paw yesterday! A happy Geordie!!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 17, 2010, 11:18:46 am
Mick did BIG Paw yesterday! A happy Geordie!!

Is that Paige or Adams, always get them two mixed up!
Nice effort to you also in Swis David.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 17, 2010, 11:21:25 am
Adams is no geordie.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 17, 2010, 11:23:41 am
Adams is no geordie.

Ahhh gotcha.
What was the thinking on grade, 8b+ or 8c?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy B on December 17, 2010, 11:46:56 am
Adams is no geordie.

Neither is Paige as far as I'm aware.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on December 18, 2010, 02:56:25 pm
apparently he can read so he can't be
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on December 21, 2010, 09:19:54 am
Alan Cassidy has done Cous Cous in a day (http://www.alancassidyclimbing.blogspot.com/).   

He sounds appropriately chuffed.  Makindromo was my first exposure (as in looking at, not climbing) to big steep Euro limestone and I still remember the shock of the new. 
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on December 26, 2010, 03:57:39 pm
i see paul robinson has just turned the fata block into a pile of dust

fata morgana

fata morgana bas

satan i helvete

satan i helvete bas

all in his first climbing day  :jaw:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: northerngreg on December 26, 2010, 05:37:29 pm
Incroyable! Big Island next?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Moo on December 26, 2010, 05:52:51 pm
no he plans to spend the rest of his time there sieging science friction
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: northerngreg on December 26, 2010, 05:57:17 pm
We've all been there...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on December 26, 2010, 09:28:36 pm
See the blog for whats planned (http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/post/2471216883/2-days-of-perfect-friction), Chaos, Big Dragon and The Island.

EDIT : Correction of problem name (just as well I linked to the blog)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on December 26, 2010, 09:31:00 pm
Bit of a detour to go from Font to Queen's.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: carlisle slapper on December 28, 2010, 12:30:04 pm
P Whitty has flashed The Power of the Dark Side at the upper matlock quarries, more here.

http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash (http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash)

big cahones indeed and a fine effort.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on December 28, 2010, 12:38:57 pm
Shit the bed that's impressive. From looking at this, it's not one of those 'highball E8' style routes. It's big and very intimidating looking. Out there.

I presume Tom's project is the amazing arete just to its left. These are two seriously inpressive lines, albeit in a bit of an underwhelming setting.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Grubes on December 28, 2010, 05:37:30 pm
P Whitty has flashed The Power of the Dark Side at the upper matlock quarries, more here.

http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash (http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash)

big cahones indeed and a fine effort.

Awesome  :bounce:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: dan lane on December 28, 2010, 08:48:23 pm
Very impressive, looks nails.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Tommy on December 28, 2010, 10:36:22 pm
Yeah, it's a great finish to 2010 for Pete. He's going so well at the moment it just not even a surprise any more some of the stuff he gets up! He looked so decisive on Power of the Dark Side - really solid. A good effort as well in the fact that it's little repeated so still a little of an unknown quantity.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: grimer on December 29, 2010, 12:43:09 pm
From where I'm sitting, ie quite some distance away, in an armchair, Pete's flash is as impressive as Ryan's on Knocking.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on December 29, 2010, 12:46:57 pm
Word is James did the other arete there the other day. Impressive stuff from both climbers if so. Two amazing lines.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: duncan on December 29, 2010, 08:04:47 pm
Hazel Findlay has done the Bachar-Yerian (http://willstanhope.blogspot.com/), alternating leads with Will Stanhope.  Female ascentionists of the B-Y must be a pretty select club.

I see the borg have picked up on this.

Further digging suggests Lynn Hill got two pitches up the B-Y before bailing (http://dev.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1045687&tn=100) (The source,  Mr Gnome, is the second on this film, so presumably a fairly reliable source).
Andrew Cole and Jay McCullom on the Bachar-Yerian (http://vimeo.com/14878084)

Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: T_B on December 29, 2010, 09:00:16 pm

Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

I did BY in '93 (?) with Eve Prickett (now Richards). Eve didn't lead any of the pitches, but she didn't fall off any either and she was only 16 at the time.

As an aside, I was a 'host' on a BMC meet to Font when Hazel must have been about 12? She was the most talented/confident of the youngsters, though Leah Crane was probably stronger/more competitive. Both stood out a mile. Tom Bolger was on the same trip (though he had a knackered finger). Look at em now eh!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 29, 2010, 09:02:21 pm
Ah good, was about to post that but wasn't sure how true it was!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on December 30, 2010, 08:23:52 am
Look at em now eh!

You old git!  :P
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Drew on December 31, 2010, 03:08:14 pm
Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

Obviously I have no idea how accurate this is, but the Rock & Ice magazine at work, from Dec '97 claims on the contents page "Lynn Hill does Bachar-Yerian", then goes on later in the mag to say she "led the key second and third pitches...". it doesn't go into any more detail than that.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Krank on January 01, 2011, 11:20:34 am
Robison has done Kheops Assis in a session :o.
 http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/robinson-brings-in-the-new-year-with-kheops-assis-8b+ (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/robinson-brings-in-the-new-year-with-kheops-assis-8b+)

(http://cdn1.27crags.com/photos/000/048/48146/large-040978948c43.jpg)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 01, 2011, 02:55:57 pm
These guys like Robinson and Woods really are operating at a fantastic standard, crushing everywhere.  Ty's stint in Font was a step up at the time. He went there and tore it up like no one had before. The bar has been raised again by the speed of these ascents by Robinson.  Ondra still kicks arse when he has his annual bouldering spree though!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on January 01, 2011, 03:13:30 pm
Mickey Paige has done Big Paw by the looks of it.  (https://www.moonclimbing.com/Mina-Leslie-Wujastyk-Postcard-from-Switzerland-n-950.html)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: monkey boy on January 02, 2011, 07:55:10 pm
Mick (Page not Paige) did do Big Paw, sure I put it on here. He also repeated Entlinge today!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 02, 2011, 08:17:44 pm
Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

Obviously I have no idea how accurate this is, but the Rock & Ice magazine at work, from Dec '97 claims on the contents page "Lynn Hill does Bachar-Yerian", then goes on later in the mag to say she "led the key second and third pitches...". it doesn't go into any more detail than that.

I've climbed with Lynn and the idea that she'd bail on a route of that difficulty sounds improbable to me. can't add any real info though.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 02, 2011, 08:25:07 pm
Mick (Page not Paige) did do Big Paw, sure I put it on here. He also repeated Entlinge today!

For those who don't know this is a swiss 8c (4th ascent)? Zangerl doing it here:
entlinge 09 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vce_3-maV08#ws)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: yorkshirewarcry on January 03, 2011, 09:14:32 pm
High Fidelity got a repeaty today at Caley - not sure who the climber was, but there were some very vocal celebrations...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on January 03, 2011, 09:21:22 pm
High Fidelity got a repeaty today at Caley - not sure who the climber was, but there were some very vocal celebrations...

Mark Katz I think.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Andy F on January 03, 2011, 09:22:06 pm
The Katz
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on January 03, 2011, 09:40:46 pm
Was it Katz?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 03, 2011, 09:58:21 pm
Wow, impressive, I thought it was reachy!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on January 03, 2011, 10:03:11 pm
Leo Sayer fro power!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: uptown on January 04, 2011, 12:20:01 pm
 :thumbsup: Great effort from Mark. What a start to the new year!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: blacky on January 04, 2011, 06:30:51 pm
It was indeed Mr Katz.
It's not that reachy but he did have to lay one on for the pocket, which is intimidating as hell for everyone involved his feet were about 5-6m up at that point. One fail on that move saw him nearly miss the mats altogether  :o but he  manned right up and finished the job after a quick brush of the holds  8)
Was awesome to see him get it ticked!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on January 04, 2011, 09:26:29 pm
Nice one Katzy.  Good to see the little man jump.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 09, 2011, 08:03:27 pm
Seen as though no one else has mentioned it yet.
Paul Robinson repeated the ace today. Also did Brad Pit and Deliverance.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: joeisidle on January 09, 2011, 08:32:28 pm
 :bounce: :bow: Wow, wish my occasional day trips to the peak were that successful...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on January 09, 2011, 09:53:24 pm
shut down on voyager then
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 09, 2011, 09:56:30 pm
shut down on voyager then

I know. Punt!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: robertostallioni on January 09, 2011, 09:57:18 pm
Must have missed Lagers Voyager Vid.  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: c.j.d. on January 10, 2011, 11:26:53 am
Is he coming to Wales, or is he another one that thinks Stanage is the UK (I take it we are talking about the same Paul Robinson)?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 10, 2011, 11:33:16 am
Why would he go to Wales? I thought everything had melted now?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on January 10, 2011, 11:46:44 am
for hard problems?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: pete b on January 10, 2011, 12:13:22 pm
According to his blog, Paul went to the peak just for a day. He went to the Castle in London too. Shame he didn't go to the lakes to try something very hard.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: nash1 on January 10, 2011, 03:16:37 pm
The Ace in 40 mins as well as Giza, Deliverance and Brad Pitt.
Not a bad day trip at all...

Imagine if him, Woods and DG had an extended trip like the other Team America did, would be interesting.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Paul B on January 10, 2011, 03:21:58 pm
Is he coming to Wales, or is he another one that thinks Stanage is the UK (I take it we are talking about the same Paul Robinson)?

The way it was reported elswhere suggested he was over to see his families g/f's whatever in London and had allowed for the train journey and a 6 hour window to get things done.

Its seriously impressive.

Up until now everytime I read about a F8c there's a nagging doubt at the back of my mind to whether it really can be that hard. Quick ascents of test pieces like the ace really put things into perspective.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on January 10, 2011, 03:33:19 pm

Imagine if him, Woods and DG had an extended trip like the other Team America did, would be interesting.
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back and didn't manage The Ace despite a fair amount of effort. To be fair I have heard mutterings that the LH sloper/crimp has eroded a bit and is now better than it used to be and DG would have been trying it before the change.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: peewee on January 10, 2011, 04:08:34 pm
I saw Paul do The Ace yesterday, he made it look very easy. Friction was pucker at Stanage yesterday aswell.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on January 10, 2011, 04:09:52 pm
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back ...

Wasn't it very wet when he was here and he didn't actually get to do that much climbing?  It's probably also worth bearing in mind that he was in the middle of a lecture tour, rather than in the middle of a climbing trip!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Bonjoy on January 10, 2011, 04:14:01 pm
Yes the weather was mostly log, but he did have a number of sessions on The Ace around the same time Ryan did it I think, so not totally log conditions throughout. I'm not dissing him or owt...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 10, 2011, 04:24:19 pm
I'm with Bonjoy, Dave Graham's shit. He failed on Hubble too the punter!

Are Robinson's ascents actually classed as valid though? He looks as if he weighs less than Bennett and surely that's just cheating?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on January 10, 2011, 04:48:13 pm
Would that logic not invalidate most of your ascents back in the day Mr Sharpe? We all know everyone was just starved rather than strong in the 90's   ;D ;D

DG is my hero, I'll fight you all!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 10, 2011, 04:54:44 pm
I was never less than about 10 1/2 stone when climbing at my best and I never dieted. So ner.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 10, 2011, 05:00:55 pm
Quote
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back and didn't manage The Ace despite a fair amount of effort. To be fair I have heard mutterings that the LH sloper/crimp has eroded a bit and is now better than it used to be and DG would have been trying it before the change.

I think I may be the originator of this story. When I tried it in March '09 I noticed that it seemed a crystal or two crumbled out of the right hand end of the LH crimp, making it more positive for your index finger. That is indeed after DG's visit in, I think Oct '08, but it didn't look fresh though so its possible any change pre-dated his trip. Or it may have been entirely my poor recall of its prior state and the divot may been there all along...

Either way its academic as we had exactly this discussion at the crag and P-Rob showed us how he didn't use it anyway - he preferred taking the hold further left where it's more uniform.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on January 10, 2011, 05:01:56 pm
I was never less than about 10 1/2 stone when climbing at my best and I never dieted took copious amounts of drugs to keep my weight down. So ner.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Stubbs on January 10, 2011, 05:03:39 pm
Is there some media etc. of P Rob's crushing?  I know a tree can't fall over in a wood in the Peak without someone taking some video of it!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on January 10, 2011, 05:09:54 pm
I know a tree can't fall over in a wood in the Peak without someone taking some video of it!

apparently...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 10, 2011, 05:13:05 pm
I've got some pics of The Ace, but I'll probably whore them round the mags first. There was quite a lot of footage captured, but mostly on P-Rob's camera. So probably keep an eye on his blog.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Ru on January 10, 2011, 05:16:41 pm
I've got some pics of The Ace, but I'll probably whore them round the mags first.

And the guidebooks, maybe?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 10, 2011, 05:35:31 pm
I don't want to do myself down, but I suspect there are better pics for the guide.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: cofe on January 10, 2011, 05:39:34 pm
beard.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Somebody's Fool on January 10, 2011, 05:42:13 pm
I've seen them and they're far from definitive. Mainly because Lee's not spotting.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: andy_e on January 10, 2011, 08:54:21 pm
No video stills then?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2011, 09:32:43 pm
Are Robinson's ascents actually classed as valid though? He looks as if he weighs less than Bennett and surely that's just cheating?

I think that depends on the wind speed and direction, as ratified by an Olympic official.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ducko on January 10, 2011, 11:30:41 pm
there are alot of climbs in wales id like too see some of these big guns have a go at i.e silk cut
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 11, 2011, 04:22:07 pm
He'd run up silk cut but id  like to know what he thought of gaskins pill box problem.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 11, 2011, 04:25:40 pm
He'd run up silk cut but id  like to know what he thought of gaskins pill box problem.

Not being shy of the crimp. I would put money on 10 minutes to dispatch...
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 11, 2011, 04:58:19 pm
I wouldn't, it even took jonny 2 hours and he  was the best on coins
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Grubes on January 11, 2011, 05:07:57 pm
He'd run up silk cut but id  like to know what he thought of gaskins pill box problem.
Has that problem been repeated by anyone yet?
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 11, 2011, 05:11:13 pm
No
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ducko on January 11, 2011, 05:22:30 pm
you think he'd find it that easy? thats impressive if so!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 11, 2011, 05:24:39 pm
you think he'd find it that easy? thats impressive if so!

If Doylo disagree's i'd be inclined to go with what he thinks. He knows better than anyone what's needed to do the pill box problem. He has seen enough wads try.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Doylo on January 11, 2011, 05:30:48 pm
you think he'd find it that easy? thats impressive if so!
Yes but he's probably top 3 In the world right now.Tyler didn't have much joy on pill box problem and he wasn't too shabby.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ducko on January 11, 2011, 05:53:37 pm
not disagreeing at all, thats very impressive althou looking at his video's he is a beast !
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 12, 2011, 09:17:59 am
I think as bad as they are aesthetically, it would be good to see Il Pirata/shadowplay climbed!
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on January 12, 2011, 12:38:36 pm
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu


Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A  karma 8A,8A+  Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: ghisino on January 12, 2011, 12:47:47 pm
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu


Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A  karma 8A,8A+  Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow

i'll never see snowy days in the same way adter this  ;D :lol:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jim on January 12, 2011, 12:48:21 pm
I bet he's 6'8". He'll get it next time I'm sure
Back around
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on January 12, 2011, 12:55:00 pm
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu


Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A  karma 8A,8A+  Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow

i'll never see snowy days in the same way adter this  ;D :lol:

funny thing is we have had no snow all year :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 12, 2011, 01:15:51 pm
 :lol:

From the same account:

Quote
10/12/08      Banana Fingers         Peak District / Burbage           Shit, limestone is for gays.

I think this chap maight be a bit confused.  :shrug:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 12, 2011, 01:22:17 pm
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu
Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A  karma 8A,8A+  Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow

Awesome, does that mean i can tick Fata Morgana then Neil?  :beer2:  :dance1:
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2011, 02:00:00 pm
funny thing is we have had no snow all year :)

it says 11/01/06 though?

LOL regardless.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 12, 2011, 02:11:25 pm
Writing the date back to front is one of the many things that 8a.nu gets wrong.
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2011, 02:30:08 pm
Fucking seppo stupid back to front date bullshit.

Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: slackline on January 12, 2011, 02:48:28 pm
Writing the date back to front is one of the many things that 8a.nu gets wrong.

ISO 8601 international standard (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_8601) (although they do fail to do it correctly by omitting the century).
Title: Re: significant repeats
Post by: neil h on January 12, 2011, 05:13:12 pm
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu
Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A  karma 8A,8A+  Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow

Awesome, does that mean i can tick Fata Morgana then Neil?  :beer2:  :dance1:

yes you can have it, can I have the island as I did one move on it and hung of the top hold  :)
Title: Re: significant repeats
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