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significant repeats (Read 2539413 times)

Fiend

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#9250 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2020, 12:41:53 pm
Caff needs to blog more. What the conclusion is who knows. Maybe it's time - on-topic! - for someone to do a top ten of the hardest trad routes in the world....

BTW don't get me wrong, I am almost as much of a DMaccy fanboi as any red-blooded male or female, including particularly how he's now tailoring his eloquent Youtube videos to your typical climber interested in progressing (rather than your typical climber with as much military self-discipline and robotic determination as DM himself irrespective of grade, as they started out as). But like anyone who is up on a pedestal or otherwise, I think there's still opportunity for a bit of fun-poking or genuine criticism when necessary.

Doylo

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#9251 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2020, 02:01:55 pm
Well put Pete. Compare to Ryan P, etc etc.

Macleod needs to actually earn a living though. Pascal just lives off rent and beer tokens.

gme

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#9252 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2020, 02:25:53 pm
New 9b/+ from the master tough grader himself.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGr-xs_D2_4/?igshid=1ph0azl8eesz5

Looks amazing. Always think the limestone in France is on another level to the shitty looking Spanish stuff.

Bradders

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#9253 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2020, 09:15:22 pm
Cal Coldwell-Storry and Alex Moore did The Young on Saturday, both ground up. Think I'm right in saying these are the first ground up ascents (after all the controversy around Franco last year). Unless Niall McNair did it GU?

andy_e

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#9254 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2020, 09:32:56 pm
Fairly sure Niall ground upped it.

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#9255 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2020, 09:40:15 pm
Ah cool. Stills feels fairly significant; four ascents this year versus two in the previous 20!

countyyoungin

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#9256 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 10:22:01 am
To be fair when I was on it that first part felt pretty solid to me. Non of those holds on the shield felt scrittly at all, did you stabilise any of it Franco? I think Niall said he had a play on it with a rope last Nov, so think they are indeed the first. Need will Bosi or Jim to turn up and flash it now!

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#9257 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 10:51:00 am
Really? The start seemed like one of the scrittliest things I've ever been on. I didn't no. The only things I've ever glued in the county are NL and SOTD. Someone had definitely put some glue on it when I was trying it though. I went up there several times and just turned around because of the condition of it - this was during a spell of much drier weather than we've had for the last month. It's no biggy really. Many of us have climbed on county rock in sub optimal conditions (I have certainly climbed on rock that I shouldn't have), but I think it's important that people reading this who are keen for the young realise you basically need a bit of a winter drought to make an ethically sound ascent outside of the summer months. That woodland is pretty much temperate rainforest. I would have thought a flash ascent wouldn't be that cutting edge now. Think the hardest sequence on it is font 7b and a totally fine fall.  :worms:

countyyoungin

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#9258 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 11:09:56 am
Yeah genuinely, they all felt fine to me. Wonder who would have put that on only a few people trapesing about up there really. That woodland is temperate I think, Alex and Cal aren't daft though (no in that sense anyways). No probably not that cutting edge, but would still be pretty impressive non the less. Mr blobby is the hard thing there now with almost no one putting time into it apart from maybe James and Watson? Cool looking thing that future wads will warm up on the young for. Get some squeezing strength and have a go at that Franco that is cutting edge! plug an ascent for us skinnys
« Last Edit: October 29, 2020, 11:19:13 am by countyyoungin »

Franco

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#9259 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 11:19:02 am
Yeh, don't really know anything about that. Think it's meant to be a lot more shortlived in its difficulties. Doesn't really look very inspiring. If I was capable of climbing harder boulder problems I'd be more keen for the rail, something at christianbury or that unclimbed thing at queens. I think the county is at it's best when there's a strong feature to follow, somewhere proud. Not a grotty thing hidden in a hole.

countyyoungin

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#9260 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 11:21:47 am
Ahh I think it looks well good manoeuvring round those shapes. unclimbed thing at queens?

countyyoungin

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#9261 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 04:50:40 pm
forgetting the wet rock thing it does come across a bit demeaning of other peoples efforts when saying its easy and totally safe, when in reality its fairly tricky (not cutting edge but still tricky) and still 10m high. We've both fallen off the top and been fine but what happens if someone lands on one leg rather than two?

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#9262 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 04:58:04 pm
Yeh, you're probably right. I just meant for the likes of Pope or Bosi, I'd imagine it would be very easy.

P.s. it's not 10m high. The crux is about 5m.

Stu Littlefair

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#9263 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 04:59:55 pm
Whereís the top though Franco? Thatís usually how height is measured.

countyyoungin

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#9264 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 05:34:13 pm
Ok correcto mundo it's 8m apparently same theory applies IMO

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#9265 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 08:28:51 pm
I think it's important to call out climbing on wet rock, full stop.

We've absolutely zero evidence to suggest that it was wet though, just an assumption that it might have been. None of us were there so we can't judge.

For what it's worth, if it was anything like it was in Yorkshire on Sunday then despite a fair amount of rain the day before it was pretty exceptional drying conditions; low humidity, strong breeze. Things that normally stay pretty damp were completely bone. So, I can easily imagine that it was perfectly dry. And I doubt they'd have done it if it had been wet.

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#9266 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 08:48:59 pm
It was a general comment, made because of the numbers of people who seem ok with climbing on wet or damp rock these days. Lots of the Peak was dry too; not all of it will have been.

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#9267 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 08:53:48 pm
Sorry, directed more at Franco than you Cofe. Completely agree with calling people out for climbing on wet rock, but when you weren't there and there's no video I don't see how you can make that call.

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#9268 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 09:16:12 pm
Hi All,

Yeah it was dry, happy days. I think if there’s one thing we don’t need Franco’s option on, it’s going ground up on The Young. Thanks anyway though!

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#9269 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 09:42:20 pm
 :clap2:

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#9270 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 10:04:55 pm
The Young looks amazing. Bet going ground up on that was fun.

Franco,  you passed comment on If six was Nine(then deleted it?).

What were you alluding too?


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#9271 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 08:57:12 am
Seb Bouin has done a rare repeat of Hugh, France's first 9a. More interesting he has tried Akira as well. It seems like the access for Akira has been sorted out, and it is now possible to climb.

The weather has been really bad in the region, and now the general quarantine has stopped all climbing in France. There might be some exceptions for professional athletes though, so there is some hope that Akira finally can get an ascent after all these years. From the comments on instagram, it didn't sound like there is much doubt that the route is climbable for Bouin.

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#9272 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 09:51:59 am
He suggests he is intending to go back.
Would be great to put this one to bed as it really does stick out as an anomaly. If it is 9b itís very much ahead of its time.

Think it was dismissed due to it being a hybrid Boulder/route but this seems acceptable now ( although still a bit shit in my opinion).

Fiend

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#9273 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 10:16:56 am
Given how popular that Ali Choss Full Extension Sit Start Limited Bonus Obverse Combo is, I expect everyone to be queuing up to find kneebars on Akira.

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#9274 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 10:40:32 am
Knobbly knees only for that one. I would be interested to know Bouinís opinion if he does it.

 

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