Akira seems to have been universally dismissed from sports climbing history but without anyone ever actually trying it.
Strange. I thought it was generally accepted that he did it and that it was more of a boulder Route like Pilgrimage or the thing in the cave in the Grampians. I thought also that the main issue was that he used a route grade for it and put a big number out there at a time when that grade didnít exist. Also according to that article he spent a very long time on it.
According to her own Instagram 'story', Julia Chanourdie has climbed her first 9b with Eagle 4 at St.Leger. https://www.instagram.com/juliachanourdie/Awesome.
Brilliant! Is this the one with some super weird french word play in the name?
Quote from: Duma on November 07, 2020, 08:54:26 pmBrilliant! Is this the one with some super weird french word play in the name?yes, in addition, the route name should be written Eagle-4, even if a very similar word play works for Eagle 4.Also, my happiness is tempered by jealousy that members of the national team are allowed to climb outside, but regular climbers are not.
If that's not a display of total mastery I don't know what is. He's in cruise control. Amazing stuff.
He also repeated Jimmy's La Rustica last week which I think is 8C now,
Love how he hangs for about a minute, before deciding where to put his foot. He makes the top-out slab look like the hardest bit.
Quote from: monkey boy on November 19, 2020, 06:17:42 amHe also repeated Jimmy's La Rustica last week which I think is 8C now,Has it not always been?Love Niky just going out on his own and doing all this stuff with no fanfare and cheerleaders.the tension at 40s in that vid, and the casual way he holds the position to spot the feet at 55s, is just mental.Little write up on his IG: https://www.instagram.com/niky_ceria/?hl=en
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