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significant repeats (Read 2584916 times)

spidermonkey09

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#9350 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2020, 11:55:41 am
On the subject of Rouhling Routes, this was at the bottom of the same article:



Drilled pockets, controversy, blah blah, still can't argue with the flamboyance of the route nor the shapeliness of the buttress.

That is probably the most quintessentially French clip of climbing I've ever seen. Allez allez allez, clipping with no feet on, flamboyant jumping between pockets. Great stuff.

ian dunn

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#9351 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2020, 09:03:27 pm
Rainshadow 9a for Toby Roberts (15) in December too battling short days and cool conditions

dunnyg

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#9352 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2020, 09:34:18 pm
Sounds more fun than school.

spidermonkey09

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#9353 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 04:42:02 pm
Josh Ibbertson has done Rainshadow now as well. Beast.

shark

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#9354 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 07:08:06 pm
Wow. He’s about the same age as Toby too.

Adam Lincoln

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#9355 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 08:22:07 pm
17 in spring

shark

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#9356 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 08:39:04 pm
Past it

Adam Lincoln

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moose

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#9358 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 09:56:05 pm
 I now feel slightly less emasculated by the memory of him as a 12 y.o, stepping in to climb on my draws, and rinsing my multi-year project in short order (I really wish I'd taken up climbing before I was 27 yo... then I might only be crap...).

cheque

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#9359 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 11:13:22 pm
I really wish I'd taken up climbing before I was 27 yo... then I might only be crap....

:boohoo: I can only assume you’re working off the “having the most fun” measurement of being a good climber here.

remus

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#9360 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 11:16:20 pm
Waddage! 2 new entrants to the 9a club in the space of 4 days!

Nibile

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#9361 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2020, 08:39:06 am
Gioia for Niki Ceria.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIyIHSCDGpL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
On his own, doin' his thing. Legendary.
With some thoughts on kneebars.

teestub

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#9362 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2020, 08:56:45 am
He’s hoovering up all the hard stuff in Swizzy and Italy, so impressive and such a great climbing style.

Coops_13

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#9363 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2020, 08:17:05 pm
Repeat of Sleepwalker V16 by relatively unknown Nathan Williams:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CJWnAMFDVYO/?igshid=16ugrv8ddqdtr

turnipturned

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#9364 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2020, 09:43:47 pm
Ah awesome. I climbed with Nathan in rocklands years ago, he must have been 14 or so and was very impressive back then!

Ross Barker

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#9365 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2020, 10:42:32 pm
Another ascent of sleepwalker is mint, the sequence looks amazing on it.

According to UKC's 2020 roundup, Micky Page has got the second ascent of The Boss, as well, which is fantastic.

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#9366 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 12:55:10 pm
I know grit head pointing is a bit passé but surprised this hasn’t been mentioned. Harder Faster strikes me as one of the most terrifying routes around and grit E8 by a woman still very thin on the ground. Repeats by James Pearson (Harder Faster) and Caroline Ciavaldini (Gaia) for anyone who doesn’t want to click on the link

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/12/hard_grit_repeats_by_james_pearson_and_caroline_ciavaldini-72675

shurt

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#9367 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 02:57:08 pm
Harder Faster is a total and utter chop route, fair dos. Amazing.

bigironhorse

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#9368 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 05:19:17 pm
That footage of Harder Faster in Consumed (?) always gives me the willies.

Fiend

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#9369 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 06:56:35 pm
That footage of Harder Faster in Consumed (?) always gives me the willies.
Yup Consumed, it's brilliant that. The grey day and the eerie background noises.

I don't think headpointing scarcely repeated E9 death routes is *that* passe. It's hardly a sort of send-train bellend low-hanging fruit tick sort of route!

Has anyone looked at the true direct finish to Gaia i.e. keeping teetering up the groove to the bleached arrow head lip above??

remus

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#9370 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:03:24 pm
Is it definitely consumed? I had a quick flick through it on yt and couldn't spot it (there's is some fairly harrowing footage of Gaia on there though). Would love a timestamp if anyone can be bothered.


Fiend

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#9371 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:07:17 pm
I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:


cheque

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#9372 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:17:50 pm
When I was making Stonnis I couldn’t find anyone who’d entertain the idea of Harder Faster, even people who’d climbed that grade and had tried it on toprope. One told me that trying it had given them nightmares and someone else (I forget who) told me that there’s a good argument for it being closer to E10.

Wood FT

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#9373 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:28:41 pm
I’ve heard the same.

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#9374 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:38:18 pm
I remember watching Toby do it in 2003 and he made it look pretty casual. I remember the weather was shit as it was a bit drizzly and my camera lens was getting damp, plus it was going dark... He just romped up it. I can remember so clearly how he stood on top and flexed. RIP my friend.


 

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