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Gritstone Science - Toehookism (Read 12364 times)

peewee

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#50 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 21, 2014, 12:24:42 pm
Demon wall roof..

Other ones at the Cliff:

Underhand - using Barrow's method, Dialectics, Exorcist, many versions of the keel.

Bonjoy

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#51 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 21, 2014, 12:29:41 pm
Sweet Chariot – As mentioned already. A hard dynamic toehook which is then hard and tenuous to use. If you enjoy this ninja shit the low version of Purple Haze has one too. Vids of both on pb.info.
Another vote for Tarantula. Several toehooks on this, including a tricky one on the crux.
House of the Holey and Grimoire both at Cratcliff, the former is really hard toe hooking, the latter quite bold.
Beeched Whale at Curbar.
If you’re after double toehooks then as already mentioned Lowrider and River of Life, plus The Golden Egg – you might not have the span for the first move but you can still do the toehooky bits. One thing I’ve found with double toehooks is that they are good for moving you’re legs along, but when it comes to a hand move you are usually better off dropping one of the toehooks off and using the dropped leg as a counterbalance.
Clampy prows frequently involve a bit of toehookery, often in opposition to a heel on the really steep ones. You could try this technique (aka the reverse Egyptian/sideways bicycle/gayleg-heel combo) on for instance Big Girl’s Brow, or Mossatrosity.
It may be getting a bit warmer at Stanage but there are plenty of grit crags that haven’t even come into season yet. The general ignorance about this and the attendant rush to the lime never ceases to amaze me every year. Get up to Howshaw (when it get’s a bit warmer). Panopticon has some good double toehooking and Broke Beak has some tenuous ones.
I assume you're not after heel-toe stuff, that's a whole other list...

Paul B

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#52 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 21, 2014, 12:35:56 pm
Peewee - Peak Centric if possible, it's much more feasible over the coming weeks for me to nip out to the Peak rather than driving up through Leeds to the Yorkshire crags. If I'm going that far (with my ignorance) then it'll be to Malham  :P.

Ta, Bonjoy.

No heel-toe stuff is fine as is anything where there's some kind of opposition (as in clamping/bicycling). Roofs and lowrider type toe work is where I seem to struggle.

Yesterday my lax of flexibility was highlighted once more so I'll try and make a concerted effort to fix that and see if things improve.

 

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