Firstly, I can only hope that you are not a 5.10 Dragon wearer.... toe hooking in down-turned shoes is like a broken pencil. Pointless...
The Nose and T-Crack are the most obvious, and have the easiest toe-hooks on them, so if these ones are causing you problems then best start here.
Having a 'heavy arse' will pay dividends.
Let yourself sag in the middle - don't try and use body-tension or strength to pull your toe into the holds. I think you can be too strong to toe-hook effectively - this is why weak climbers like me use them so much and can get them to stick as we naturally sag......
The most recent sequence I've seen on T-Crack avoids the toe hook completely by undercutting out to the left side of the slopey shelf then moving rightwards.
toe hooking in down-turned shoes is like a broken pencil. Pointless...
If its not working on T-crack something is badly wrong.
You are short so that will make up for not having a fat arse.
Given that you've broken both your legs a hundred times (?) might be worth checking to see how strong these muscles are, or if there is an imbalance between legs.
QuoteHaving a 'heavy arse' will pay dividends. I don't have one of those
Ditto, Teams are the best toehooking boot I've ever had. Some of you guys must have been hitting the crack pipe a bit too hard.
...my gran could use the t-crack toe hooks in carpet slippers.