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Gritstone Science - Toehookism (Read 12465 times)

dave

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#25 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 08:44:31 am

Ditto, Teams are the best toehooking boot I've ever had. Some of you guys must have been hitting the crack pipe a bit too hard.

Not used/had teams, but my sCrapa VCS Velcro (probably a couple of other V things afterwards) shoes are good for toehookshennanigans... ribbbed rubber (!) patch over a strong box (!) :)

If they came encrusted with diamonds, stuffed with £50 notes floating in a tank of Cristal I still wouldn't have a pair of Scarpas.....

Juju club at caley is another toehook job.

tomtom

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#26 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 08:55:07 am

Ditto, Teams are the best toehooking boot I've ever had. Some of you guys must have been hitting the crack pipe a bit too hard.

Not used/had teams, but my sCrapa VCS Velcro (probably a couple of other V things afterwards) shoes are good for toehookshennanigans... ribbbed rubber (!) patch over a strong box (!) :)

If they came encrusted with diamonds, stuffed with £50 notes floating in a tank of Cristal I still wouldn't have a pair of Scarpas.....

The diamonds do tend to leave some scratch marks on some surfaces ;)

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#27 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 10:20:45 am
Paul, one of the roof problems right of the terrace has a great toehoooking sequence, stretched out and involving a hanging toehook match.

I do this at 10:30 on this vid:

not sure it's entirely neccesary, but is great fun.

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#28 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 12:34:25 pm
If you are trying to toe hook something that you are already holding onto and your arms are short compared to your legs, then sometimes it can be pretty hard to sag onto the toes.

Doylo

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#29 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 12:42:56 pm
If you are trying to toe hook something that you are already holding onto and your arms are short compared to your legs, then sometimes it can be pretty hard to sag onto the toes.

I think hooking by your hand can be hard if you're gangly too. There's a lot of bent slack limb to keep tight. I was struggling on a move like this last week. Probably down to my flabby core though.  :ras:

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#30 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 12:54:04 pm
With the new school room opening, surely you can get a masterclass from gme?

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#31 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 03:51:46 pm
Mushin is another. Jet 7s worked fine for me on this and they had a bit of a downturn on them.

Another vote for saggy bum method but im still fearful of them.

dave

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#32 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 04:22:50 pm
Sagging the arse down is dubious beta to me. Might work for toehooks that are quite stretched, juggy, or straight legged, but for close-in or marginal toehooks you need to be pulling up to get them to work. The toehook on the nose is an example of this.

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#33 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 06:02:17 pm
Sagging the arse down is dubious beta to me. Might work for toehooks that are quite stretched, juggy, or straight legged, but for close-in or marginal toehooks you need to be pulling up to get them to work. The toehook on the nose is an example of this.

Sagging arse works if you're heel then toe hooking your way along (for example) a traverse (you know where you bring the toe of your other foot up to allow the heel to move etc..). Otherwise I'm with Dave on this - body tension is key..

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#34 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 06:22:13 pm
Just remembered...that Hourglass at Plantation's another hooktastic number isn't it?

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#35 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 06:30:03 pm
Just remembered...that Hourglass at Plantation's another hooktastic number isn't it?

Think 205Chris had that down earlier word.

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#36 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 10:21:44 pm
I'm crap at heal hooking so use toes quite a lot. Used a toe instead of a heal on brass monkeys which seemed to work. Or you could just campus :-)

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#37 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 13, 2014, 11:09:46 pm
I used toes quite a bit on hampers hang heel with right left toe behind and used this to move the heel along same can be done on lots of lit traverses even green just for toe hookery practice.

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#38 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 14, 2014, 09:31:26 am
I used toes quite a bit on hampers hang heel with right left toe behind and used this to move the heel along same can be done on lots of lit traverses even green just for toe hookery practice.

I'm afraid I can't condone heels or toehooking on the green traverse, whether it's for practise or not.

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#39 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 14, 2014, 09:38:00 am
Come on he only wants to use heels and toes on the Green for practise. As long as he is wearing a tee clearly marked "ONLY PRACTISING" I can't see a problem with that.

fatneck

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#40 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 14, 2014, 10:09:51 am
Nothing to add to the discussion but I want a JUST PRACTICING Tee!!!  :weakbench:

Paul B

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#41 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 14, 2014, 10:13:32 am
I used toes quite a bit on hampers hang heel with right left toe behind and used this to move the heel along same can be done on lots of lit traverses even green just for toe hookery practice.

I can get them to work like this, it's more when you're relying solely on a toe that I fall down (and land on my head).

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#42 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 14, 2014, 10:17:37 am
As long as he is wearing a tee clearly marked "ONLY PRACTISING" I can't see a problem with that.

If Shark wears one, will he no longer get any grief whilst he's wandering the Peak with a ladder under his arm?

SA Chris

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#43 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 14, 2014, 10:48:14 am
Nothing to add to the discussion but I want a JUST PRACTICING Tee!!!  :weakbench:

Next UKB tee?

Jaspersharpe

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#44 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 14, 2014, 10:53:52 am
It should be on a high vis vest.

Paul B

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#45 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 14, 2014, 03:50:43 pm
I'm afraid I can't condone heels or toehooking on the green traverse, whether it's for practise or not.

you lot would have been very upset by some of the sequences on show today then...

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#46 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 16, 2014, 09:14:43 am
I haven't climbed in the peak much but remember having double toe hooks on cave route at Robin Hood's stride.

I rate teams for toehooking too and although they are downturned, they have a very soft midsole so it's easy to hyper-extend the foot to get rid of the downturn. Dave Graham seems to get on ok toehooking with them...

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#47 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 20, 2014, 06:32:52 pm
Nothing to add to the discussion but I want a JUST PRACTICING Tee!!!  :weakbench:
:thumbsup:Me Too!

rich d

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#48 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 20, 2014, 06:53:45 pm
Nothing to add to the discussion but I want a JUST PRACTICING Tee!!!  :weakbench:
:thumbsup:Me Too!
me 3

SA Chris

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#49 Re: Gritstone Science - Toehookism
March 21, 2014, 08:43:41 am
It's been a while since the last UKB Tee.

 

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