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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Barratt on June 05, 2009, 09:17:11 am

Title: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 05, 2009, 09:17:11 am
Whilst at Stoney the other day, it was mentioned that it would be useful to have a bit of a mini guide for Minus Ten. Pulling together all the problems from the various guides and any new stuff not published.

If you'd find it useful give it a thumbs up and ill get to work. Goes without saying, it'd be a freebie.

Andy
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Dolly on June 05, 2009, 09:31:38 am
Sounds great to me  :)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: slackline on June 05, 2009, 10:07:46 am
 :thumbsup: :great: :thumbsup: :great: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Fiend on June 05, 2009, 11:31:27 am
Would be great to have a guide that only dealt with the obvious pure independent lines  8)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 05, 2009, 11:55:03 am
you mean a pamphlet? you could write a miniguide just about problems based around zippy's.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: slackline on June 05, 2009, 12:31:02 pm
Would be great to have a guide that only dealt with the obvious pure independent lines  8)

But isn't the point of -10 that its an eliminate venue and its the gap in this level of detail that r-man is trying to plug?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 05, 2009, 12:36:11 pm
Wossat? I'm not a plumber.

Fiend is winding you up.

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Fiend on June 05, 2009, 01:06:37 pm
Am I bollox. The point of -10 is that there's a couple of good traverse lines, and the starts to a few good trad routes.

Eliminate venues WOTEVER we live in the Peak District not London, there's no excuse for not climbing on good rock...
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: slackline on June 05, 2009, 01:07:31 pm
Wossat? I'm not a plumber.

Fiend is winding you up.



Ahh, ok.  Only the other day someone told me gullible had been removed from the dictionary, I checked and it hadn't  :whistle:

Am I bollox. The point of -10 is that there's a couple of good traverse lines, and the starts to a few good trad routes.

Eliminate venues WOTEVER we live in the Peak District not London, there's no excuse for not climbing on good rock...

Remind me again where you were on Tuesday evening Fiend  :wave:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 05, 2009, 01:21:13 pm
Eliminate venues WOTEVER we live in the Peak District not London, there's no excuse for not climbing on good rock...

so you'd take wet good rock over dry crap rock then? i sense you're missing the main utility of stoney here.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 05, 2009, 01:37:18 pm

Remind me again where were you Tuesday evening Fiend  :wave:

Here? (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=McDonalds+S9+2YZ&sll=53.405247,-1.41553&sspn=0,359.993091&ie=UTF8&ll=53.405746,-1.415005&spn=0,359.972363&z=15&iwloc=A&layer=c&cbll=53.40581,-1.414899&panoid=D1vcFRygBegHQDXqXbTo-g&cbp=12,120.01,,0,5)  :shrug:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: slackline on June 05, 2009, 01:43:03 pm

Remind me again where were you Tuesday evening Fiend  :wave:

Here? (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=McDonalds+S9+2YZ&sll=53.405247,-1.41553&sspn=0,359.993091&ie=UTF8&ll=53.405746,-1.415005&spn=0,359.972363&z=15&iwloc=A&layer=c&cbll=53.40581,-1.414899&panoid=D1vcFRygBegHQDXqXbTo-g&cbp=12,120.01,,0,5)  :shrug:

Nah, he was scrabbling around on obvious lines and traverses (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=McDonalds+S9+2YZ&sll=53.405247,-1.41553&sspn=0,359.993091&ie=UTF8&ll=53.405746,-1.415005&spn=0,359.972363&z=15&iwloc=A&layer=c&cbll=53.40581,-1.414899&panoid=D1vcFRygBegHQDXqXbTo-g&cbp=12,120.01,,0,5) before moving on to some grotty little cave.  :)

(I had my first evening doing routes at Stoney and was mightly impressed, nowhere near as polished as the reputation I'd heard).
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Fiend on June 05, 2009, 02:51:07 pm
I was dragged there!! Much against my better judgement!!

Stoney is good for routes.

I'd rather take dry plastic than dry polished eliminates, any day  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 05, 2009, 02:55:14 pm
That seems like a thumbs up to me, best get cracking then.

Would be nice to get the lowdown on the non-published stuff though. Suggestions on here?

Initial thoughts are pamphlet/booklet, along the lines of the new Parisella's. Perhaps 8 page, F/B covers and then a spread for Easy, Medium & Hard... something for everyone.

In theory it shouldn't take that long, just need to get out there to take a few snaps and get it designed/artworked up. Just in time for the heat of summer.

When done, free download, or if you want a shiny printed copy...

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: slackline on June 05, 2009, 03:11:23 pm
Wossat? I'm not a plumber.


Oops, was getting my rocketman and r-man confused there, apologies.

Go for it rocketman  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 05, 2009, 03:31:20 pm
I sent you a pm, but might as well paste it here so people can add if they know of anything else. This is all the stuff from Ru's guide, plus unpublished stuff copied from ukb over the years.

Minus Ten Left

5     Upper Break Traverse     Left to right.         
6b    Middle Break Traverse    Left to right. Harder near the end.       
6c+    Wall Traverse    Traverse below the break, left to right.       
7b    Quent's Dyno          
7b+ (soft)    Ned's Problem    Sitstart break. LH-3, RH 4, LH 2, RH – Top break.       
7b+    Harris Problem    (LH-3, RH-4) LH- small edge/sidepull 30/40cm above 5. RH-break. Feet on smears only, no breaks.       
7c+ (soft)    Harris Problem Variant    As for Harris Problem, but go to the top break instead.       
7c    The JABP          
7b+    White Ladder    (LH-4, RH-8), RH- small grey crimp up and right of 6, LH- good edge up and left, RH- Top break (apex).       
7c    White Ladder Sitstart    Sitstart Break. LH-4, RH-8, RH- small grey crimp up and right of 6, LH- good edge up and left, RH- Top break (apex).       
7b+    Guidebook Problem 3          
7a+    Guidebook Problem 4          
7b    One Arm Bandit RH          
7b    One Arm Bandit LH          
7a+    Kirton Dyno    

Minus Ten Right


7a+    Slopey Sidepull    (LH-34, RH-36) LH-21 slopey sidepull, RH-25, LH-29. Feet anywhere.       
7b    Odd Thing    (LH-34, RH-36) LH-21 slopey sidepull, RH-26*, LH-29. Feet anywhere. *Look on page 326 - though hold 26 is listed as a quartzy crimp, it's actually a big flatty you can pinch slightly.       
7b+    Sean's Problem          
7c    Sean's Problem + Mono    Use a mono on shallow dish (38).       
7c    Sean's Problem Variant 1    Use sidepull (23) instead of edge (24).       
7c+    Sean's Problem Variant 1 + Mono    Use a mono on shallow dish (38)       
7b    Harris Problem 1    Start with left on edge (36) and right on pinch 42, foot on (41). Reach up left to the sloping edge (27) and cross over for edge (28) with your right. Lock out for the incut (32) and the jug (33).       
7c+ (soft)    Harris Problem 2    (LH-42, RH43) RH-44, LH-38, RH immediately above 38 in poor sidepull facing the opposite way, LH-28, RH-29. No feet in the low break.
7b+    Harris Problem 3    (RH-46, LH-46) LH-54, RH slopey dish between holds 50 & 52, LH-52, RH-52. Feet 41 &43 only.       
7b+    Zippy's Sidepull          
7c (soft)    Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1    As for Zippy's Sidepull, but use the sidepull lower down (no thumb in 24).       
6c+    Guidebook Problem 11          
7b+    Zippy's Problem          
7c    Zippy's Problem Variant 1    Guidebook Problem 13.       
7c+    Zippy's Problem Variant 2    As for variant 1, but miss out edge (53) and dyno for jug (52).       
7c    Zippy's Problem Variant 3    Guidebook Problem 14.       
7c    Zippy's Problem Variant 4    As for Zippys problem but use undercut (49) instead of sidepull (48)       
7c+    Zippy's Problem Variant 5    As for Zippy's to RH-47, then LH-54, RH-50, LH-51, RH-52. Feet 41,43,55       
7c+    Pinch 2          
7c+    Nasty Traverse          
6c    The Double Double          
7a+    Young American          
7a+    Megatron    Dyno from A to B.       
7a+    Megatron Turbo    Double dyno from A to B.

George's Wall

7c    Quent's Legendary Dyno    From the large jug, dyno to the large sloper below the break.       
7b+ (soft)    George's Wall Dyno    From the large jug, dyno to the break.       
6a+    Groove    Climb the groove.

Tom's Roof

7a+     Punker Bunker     (LH-C, RH-C), RH-E, LH-E, RH-H, LH-H. Feet anywhere except the sidewall.         
7c    Harris Problem 1    (LH-B, RH-A) RH-E, LH-E, footless, RH-U, LH-L, LH-H, RH-H Feet on back wall only       
7b+    Harris Problem 2    (LH-Q) RH-O, LH-E, RH-E, LH-B, LH-A Feet on S, ramp below S and back wall       
7c    Sidewall Traverse    (LH-D, RH-D) RH-N, LH-O, RH-P, LH-P Feet anywhere       
7c    Armbandit    (LH-B, RH-A) RH-E, LH-Q, RH-K, LH-I, RH-I. Feet anywhere       
7b+    Figure of 8          
7c    Guidebook Problem 11          
7c    Guidebook Problem 10          
7c+    Jerry's Problem          
7c+    Jerryatricks          
7c    Rack and Ruin          
7c+    Pete's Power Pull          
8a    Quintessence          
7b (soft)    Swing Thing          
7c    Swing Thing Reverse          
7c+    Swing Thing There and Back          
7b    Power Allowance          
6c    The Womb    From the back of the back cave. Finish as you wish.       
7a (soft)    Tom's Original    From undercuts, reach the roof hold, then the lip jug. Feet anywhere. Finish up the right wall.

Carl's Wark

7b     Carl's Wark Traverse     From the far left crack, traverse rightwards along a low line of holds. Finish up flakes to reach the break.
6a    More Air than Chocolate    Use pockets to climb the left side of the wall, moving rightwards into a groove.       
7b    Au Revoir Mono Doigt    Climb the centre of the wall. Highball.       
6b+    Soapspuds Traverse    The slightly shabby wall right of the main wall. From left, gain the crack and traverse right. At its end, reach the second break and traverse left. Then reverse to the ground.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2009, 03:34:00 pm
Wow, nice one R-man, quite an astounding volume of problems for such a small venue!! Amazing.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2009, 04:08:44 pm
I think Zippy's Problem 7b+ is harder than Zippy's variant 1 so either upgrade it to 7c or downgrade the variant to 7b+.

Robin, is the problem on this block up to the quartzy pocket with RH from LH on the ripple on the smooth sloping gaston described? I saw it on one of the old posts at 7b+ but its clearly nails and harder this.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Fiend on June 05, 2009, 04:46:31 pm
You can add Bubble's Direct Start (although obviously it's all about the full route really).

Also in Tom's Cave, SS on jugs on the far right, move left onto low slanting jug, pull up to the usual edge in the roof, swing left to Tom's undercuts and left again to sidepulls to finish in balance on rib. 7a (harder than Tom's) and the only other natural line in the cave.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2009, 06:56:13 pm
Just had the chance to look at my guide and yes the 7b+ I mentioned above is a Harris 7b+ - possibly 7c IMHO, it really is desparate cos of the severe lack of footholds!

Some new ones to add downstairs from the Peak Bouldering Guide by Al Williams:

1. Start to Scarab (easiest of variety of ways) - english 6a/b
2. Carl's Wark Traverse Low (keep low on bad pockets to rejoin original at Au Revoir start) - given 10 which translates to Font 7c. By the way, this is referred to as (another) Jerry's Traverse, I wonder why the name was changed? Possibly cos of the sheer number of 'em with the same name!
3. Wall via pocket right of right-hand crack on Soadsuds wall - english 6a/b
4. There are a number of 5c and below problems described which deserve to go in to give everybody something to go for. After all, the easy traverses are described upstairs...

Fiend, I think Bubbles start is incorporated into Carl's Wark Traverse which is why it is not described separately although I agree it deserves to go in on its own.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2009, 07:26:31 pm
Also Pinch 2 with One Summer footholds should be 8a+. i don't think Moonie would be struggling to do a 7c+ somehow! :-\
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Andy B on June 05, 2009, 08:10:10 pm
that left foot toe smear seems so poffed that it's unusable now. I found it easier to do the jump to the pinch without it. Is it needed for the next jump?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2009, 08:18:34 pm
that left foot toe smear seems so poffed that it's unusable now. I found it easier to do the jump to the pinch without it. Is it needed for the next jump?

I have not tried the move but Ben leaves his left foot there when jumping for the next hold and it seems to stay on when he hits the hold. Probably barely holding any weight though.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 05, 2009, 09:42:23 pm
Just had the chance to look at my guide and yes the 7b+ I mentioned above is a Harris 7b+ - possibly 7c IMHO, it really is desparate cos of the severe lack of footholds!

if this is the thing i think it is (and it is) then last time I was there we did this and everyone agreed it felt piss for 7b+ and a country mile easier than any of the other 7b+s.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2009, 10:08:28 pm
This is the one I was referring to:

7b+    Harris Problem 3    (RH-46, LH-46) LH-54, RH slopey dish between holds 50 & 52, LH-52, RH-52. Feet 41 &43 only.

I will have another go next time I am down. Intrigued to hear that Dave. Seemed pretty ard to me!

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: abarro81 on June 05, 2009, 10:33:13 pm
Seemed hard to me too (as in I couldn't do it and didn't feel very close to doing it). Loads harder than the press at rubicon, which seems like a useful comparison since they're very similar moves. Harder than Zippy's sidepull or white ladder too. The main thing seemed to be trying to get your RF to stick on that crappy foothold.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 05, 2009, 11:02:04 pm
i'll check with banks, but i'm sure this is the thing I'm thinking of.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 07, 2009, 12:45:02 am
Inspired by this thread, I had a wonderful day at Minus Ten. First time I've been here for ages. Like pot noodle, it's wrong but it tastes so good.  Here's a new one for the list, perhaps it's been done before, but I'm giving it a name because all these variants make for confusing reading:

7c      Zeno's Sidepull     As for Zippy's Sidepull, but make the last move with RH.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 07, 2009, 10:28:08 pm
that is good cos it opens up the possibilty of doing the entire problem one-handed. props.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: abarro81 on June 07, 2009, 10:35:50 pm
Holy moley! (I don't actually know how to spell that.) How do you do that move with you right? Dyno from feet in the break??
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 07, 2009, 10:39:39 pm
 :great: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 07, 2009, 10:57:01 pm
that is good cos it opens up the possibilty of doing the entire problem one-handed. props.

Aha! You share my dream! Have tried, and it's definitely possible, but will of course be much much harder.

Holy moley! (I don't actually know how to spell that.) How do you do that move with you right? Dyno from feet in the break??

Same slopey dish foothold as per usual version, just fling your right hand up when you get stood up. It felt like an arm dyno - this is the only bodypart that needs to move fast. Found it quite tough to hold the jug even I when had the distance.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 09, 2009, 02:20:08 pm
Slow Progress - Main excuse prepping the office move, but many more in the locker. ;D

The attached is work in progress. 1st page cover, 2nd page inside cover and so on... its top fold so that when open you can see the diagram, hold reference and all the problems on the page below... no flipping back and forth. Other sections to follow.

I've yet to clean up/standardise the englandish, illustrate the crag and take any imagery.

Keen eyes for proofing problems appreciated - comments welcome.

http://clients.rckt.co.uk/Stoney_v1_Layout_1.pdf (http://clients.rckt.co.uk/Stoney_v1_Layout_1.pdf)

A note on IP/treading on others toes. I've used the same numbering/reference as both the RF Guide and the PDB Guide. Problem descriptions are obviously very similar. Images and illustrations will be produced by myself. If anyone has any concerns, just shout.



Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: slackline on June 09, 2009, 02:24:24 pm
Like the layout there Rocketman  :)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 09, 2009, 02:27:04 pm
that looks bad (meaning good).
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 09, 2009, 02:30:05 pm
Cool.

Imagery and illustration soon...

A
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: GCW on June 09, 2009, 05:22:51 pm
Nice work.

I've added it to the UKB Vimeo page (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/4295/files), hope that's OK.

Can this thread go in the topos folder (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,37.0.html), Bubbs?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 09, 2009, 05:46:39 pm
Keen eyes for proofing problems appreciated - comments welcome.


Sean's Problem Variant 1 + Mono - name is incomplete

Also, hold 26 is listed as a quartzy crimp, as in Ru's guide. It isn't, it's a good flatty. I only know this because it's important to the Odd Thing problem, which is a variant of the Slopey Sidepull problem.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: GCW on June 09, 2009, 05:49:34 pm
Oh, and isn't Kirton Dyno supposed to be a double?  Or am I dreaming it?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: fatboySlimfast on June 10, 2009, 08:26:14 am
Kirton dyno is any which way, also one arm bandit uses the small edge footholds above the break, not the break itself!
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 10, 2009, 09:25:22 am
Great work! A couple of tiny things:

- is it worth putting in the Rockfax easy problems left of Quent's dyno (B0 - B4)? After all, the guide will not be fully comprehensive without them.
- please can you at least mention the grade of 8a+ in the description of Pinch 2. I don't know how it went down to 7c+ but as this is an eliminate crag, it will still be possible to climb it in this historically significant way from 1994 even if new easier ways have been found (I don't know if they have though? does anybody know the score here?). It used to be the hardest eliminate in the world after all!

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 10, 2009, 02:03:38 pm
Keeping up the good reputation of us boulderers is challenging at times.

Fear not, the reputation is in tact and some mediocre images are in the bag - should be good enough for illustrations anyway.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 11, 2009, 10:10:42 am
This is the info on Pinch 2 from the other thread just in case it ain't been read (scroll to top of thread):

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg204839.html#new (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg204839.html#new)

Nice work on the photos, can't wait to see the finished product!
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 11, 2009, 12:42:55 pm
This sound right:

RH-pinch 42, LH- slopey crimp 36. RF- low edge, LF- smear out left then pull through to pinch (number?) (RH) fully weighting smear. Keeping LF on smear RF smear out right & slap to sloper  (number?) (LH)

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 11, 2009, 12:43:24 pm
Full entry:

7c+    Pinch 2 (or 8a+ ?)   
Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37 dyno RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43 dyno again edge 51 LH. Top 52.  
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: moose on June 11, 2009, 01:07:04 pm
- is it worth putting in the Rockfax easy problems left of Quent's dyno (B0 - B4)? After all, the guide will not be fully comprehensive without them.

At the least I'd be grateful for some easy problems - I only have the Ru guide and would be grateful for a bit more choice.  In two sessions of trying to boulder at Minus Ten I've utterly failed to climb anything other than the font5 upper traverse!  Even the traverses in the low font6's spat me off repeatedly (and the supposedly easy straight-ups all seemed to have low, bunched starts that felt desperate for a 6'3" gangle-monster). 
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 11, 2009, 01:24:28 pm
Full entry:

7c+    Pinch 2 (or 8a+ ?)   
Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37 dyno RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43 dyno again edge 51 LH. Top 52.  

Great, nice one for looking up all those numbers rocketman! The only thing I would add is that perhaps the ? after 8a+ should go. After all, I think the other thread cleared this up. If you use smear 37 to get 50 then its 8a+ as originally done. If you didn't then its easier, possibly 7c+. If anything, the ? should go after the 7c+! Sorry to be a pedant  ::)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 11, 2009, 01:25:33 pm
Full entry:

7c+    Pinch 2 (or 8a+ ?)   
Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37 dyno RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43 dyno again edge 51 LH. Top 52.  

From what Andy says, the original 8a+ version should be

Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37 pull through to RH pinch on lip 50, fullying weighting smear. Keep LF on smear 37, RF smear 43 dyno again to edge 51 LH. Top 52. 

and the 7c+ "easy way" (with LF smear removed) - perhaps this should just be known's as Jason's Variant?

Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Dyno to RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43 dyno again to edge 51 LH. Top 52. 

Have I got that right?

Quote
Orignal sequence
from RH-pinch, LH- slopey crimp
RF- low edge, LF- smear out left (the crucial bit)
then pull through to pinch(RH) fully weighting smear (this is the hard bit)
keeping LFon smear RF smear out right & slap to sloper (LH)

Newer sequence (although this is how Jason did the 3rd ascent circa 95)
from pinch & sloper just jump or lank direct to pinch then as above
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 11, 2009, 01:29:17 pm
Sounds bang on R-man, hopefully there will be space in the topo to include this!
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 11, 2009, 01:32:45 pm
Easy probs going in, i need em also! I'm also including the ups to the far right from the RF guide.

Pinch 2 I'll try and work it out and re post once the illustration is in - half done at mo. If I could do these probs it would be so much easier. As is, its depressing stuff - only being able to do (insert very small fraction) of the problems i'm putting in!  :wall:

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 11, 2009, 01:33:08 pm
do we need some minimum bodyweight pressure percentage that must be maintained through the left smear for an ascent to count? and pressure sensors installed in everyone's rockshoes?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 11, 2009, 04:35:21 pm
Loving the work Rocketman, but since when was Ned's Problem.. Ned's Problem? Think I originally posted this as a problem on a photo in the old Stoney Stuff thread in feb 2006, tho the photo's all seem to have disappeared now (where do they go?).

I remember saying at the time it was likely to have been done before, was just throwing an eliminate out there for the other sad stoney crimpers. Saw Ned crush it a month or so later.. saying he'd come across it on ukb.. And now it is Ned's Problem. I'm guessing this is just the name that people have come to associate with the problem, I'm not trying to claim it as a 1st ascent as i'm sure Ned hasn't. It's more likely to be a Ben or Jerry or Sean or Zippy or Andy or  :shrug:? (add your own Stoney hero) problem.

How about... Not Ned's Problem?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 11, 2009, 05:11:10 pm
Sorry, that was probably my fault. The list on the first page is a result of all my copying and pasting from ukb pages over the years. No doubt I just attached that name to identify it, then forgot it wasn't actually called that.  However, it does pay homage to the history of misguided problem naming that dates back to Lucien's Undercut...
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 11, 2009, 05:22:34 pm
also one arm bandit uses the small edge footholds above the break, not the break itself!

Is it 7b or is it harder?
Should doing it with any footholds be easier, or is the 7b grade for this method?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: fatboySlimfast on June 11, 2009, 06:08:27 pm
no idea of grades but one arm bandit originally was left hand in pocket, feet on diagonal and other thin edge, go for jug with left hand.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: moose on June 11, 2009, 06:16:35 pm
do we need some minimum bodyweight pressure percentage that must be maintained through the left smear for an ascent to count? and pressure sensors installed in everyone's rockshoes?

Pressure sensors? Sounds pricey, you just want Minus Ten to be a rich man's playground don't you?   You, Bill Gates and The Queen all bantering about the correct crimp - maybe Bernie Ecclestone taking care of the shoe telemetry.  An apter solution for these recessionary times would be to place a small insect on the smear - a valid ascent must be accompanied by a fatality.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: a dense loner on June 11, 2009, 07:11:08 pm
r-man the lf smear needs to go in. if you don't use this and use the little foothold an inch to the left or an inch to the right the move is no longer hard. plus i would take out the bit that says 'dyno again' and put 'dyno lh edge 51' i would even put 'dyno lh sloper 51, the edge is out' since it is.

the good news is this is the only problem i would consider giving all this nonsense time and rules to. i don't know why
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 11, 2009, 07:18:27 pm
What if you don't use your left foot at all? That's how I did it, and it's definitely easier than using the lf smear, so I assumed that's what the 7c+ refers to...
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: a dense loner on June 11, 2009, 07:25:28 pm
interesting, pinch 2 and a 1/4. are you saying you jumped from the low foothold to the pinch then put your rf straight on the rf hold to pull through? remember you're tiny stu

if so i'm disappointed in you, i could have done it this way over 10 years ago. but over 10 years without sleep is a long time :P
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 12, 2009, 01:52:22 am
What if you don't use your left foot at all? That's how I did it, and it's definitely easier than using the lf smear, so I assumed that's what the 7c+ refers to...

As I understand it, that's what Andy was saying - Jason did this version and others have too. I haven't done it, I'm just attempting to clarify. What was your thought on grade for this version Stu?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 12, 2009, 08:19:40 am
dense, that's exactly what i did.

honestly, I tried to get my LF on that poor smear, but there are only so many days you can spend waving your feet in the direction of a poor quality mirror before trying alternatives.

I thought 7c+ or 8a was about right, but I have an admission to make. I'm not even sure I used the correct RF smear once I'd caught the Pinch. I don't now what came over me, I'm usually so good at pointless eliminates.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 12, 2009, 10:58:15 pm
Was at stoney today and had a chance to look at the proof while i was there. Spotted a few typo's and the odd description gone a bit wobbly...

      Zippy's Problem Variant 1 - Think you have pasted in the 6c+ PDB Problem 11 by mistake.
      One Arm Bandit LH          - Isn't the idea you only use one hand.. left hand in pocket left hand slap the top.. right hand behind your back
                                           a la one summer. Dont think u/c 22 is in at all.
      One Arm bandit RH          - Ditto

Do want the typo's? there's a few...         PDB Prob 3 - Ballance should be balance
                                                         PDB Prob 4, RF B7 + B6 - Egypcian should be Egyptian
                                                         Nasty traverse - missed t off right.. and m in crimp
                                                         Double double - extra s in flakes

Think Kingy is right about the Harris problem.. its proper nails. Quite a bit harder than white ladder probably worth 7c IMHO. And is the JABP really only 7c? Has anybody done it? Have periodically looked at this over the last 5 years and not made any impression on it. Its way harder than any of the zippy variants for me. I know it's only 1 move but its desperate!

The easier probs from the Rockfax around megatron are worth putting in and another reasonable addition is an eliminate on the arete.. using just holds on the arete but  eliminating the normal finishing ledge by slapping past it onto the slopey ramp, matching it and finishing at the high ledge.. about 7a+. Its probably a better problem than the easy arete.. and just what Stoney needs.. an eliminate.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 12, 2009, 11:37:54 pm
Other typos:

-Zippy's Problem - there's no description
-Sean's Problem a little unclear - need full stop after "edges".
-One arm bandit - should it not be one armed bandit, as in the rockfax? Makes more sense.
-Harris Problem 1 seems to be the unnamed rockfax B9, except that here it says foot on 41, rather than feet anywhere stated in the rockfax. Probably makes more sense with feet anywhere, as you can't do the whole problem with only one foothold.
-Gav's Problem? In the rockfax, but can't see it in the pdf.

What do people think about grades for Zippy's sidepull? 7b+ always seemed a bit much for me. I reckon Zippy's Sidepull 7b, Zippy's Sidepull Variant 7b+, Zeno's Sidepull 7c.

Also, can someone please name some of these Harris Problems? There are 4 at Minus Ten alone. It's so much easier to remember things when they have their own names.

Blockhead, that arete problem sounds good. Name?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 13, 2009, 05:31:29 pm
-One arm bandit - should it not be one armed bandit,

A 'one arm bandit' is a type of early fruit machine with a lever on the side that you pulled to start playing or collect your winnings. They died out decades ago. The allusion to a one arm bandit is obvious in the problem name as you only use one arm for the problem. Hence it should not be  'one armed bandit'.

Yes I forgot about Gav's problem, its a great one with a cunning move rightwards at the start! defo put this one in.

I find Zippy's sidepull desparate. I would gladly accept 7b+ for it! but will happily go with consensus.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 13, 2009, 07:41:50 pm
Yep, I know it's a fruit machine, but I think it's still one armed bandit:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slot_machine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slot_machine)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Andy Harris on June 14, 2009, 12:21:39 pm
Who is this Harris fella? Seems a bit of an egomaniac naming dozens of problems after himself. I bet he has matching number plates for his exotic supercar collection :wank:

On a more serious note i'm not sure what all these prolems are and whether i did them or the knowledge was passed on (probably a bit of both). My suggestion is to have a mid week stoney evening session (shiv & the nipper are in Ireland) where we can test the memory banks and clear all this stuff up and whoever wants to come along for a stoney reunion can.

I can't do Monday but any other day will do.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Falling Down on June 14, 2009, 02:36:57 pm
It's one arm bandit.  Johnny had a right lip on when that Stone Monkey ad with Ben came out.

 
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: tc on June 14, 2009, 04:24:01 pm
More prehistory for you:
The first time I was ever shown the problem now referred to as "The Double Double" was in 1976, by Bill Briggs (who built Stanage) and Dave Morgan (who was supremely talented but very lazy). I think Bill was the first to do it. He liked jumping. And jumpers, too. Big thick ones. They went well with his beard. This is all just in case anyone actually gives a fuck, of course...
It's a good job some of us old blokes are still alive, otherwise the rich history of internationally important venues like Minus Ten, Fach Wen and the Breck might forever be consigned to the mists of time.
As for the JABP, yes I think I've done it and I think the Dawes has, too. I'll be down south (south of Shap is all down south now) the weekend after next so will now be heading straight to Stoney for another trip down memory lane. I'll check which holds I pulled on before submitting any claims that might later be regarded as the disjointed ramblings of some drug damaged old gipper. Now, where did I put my white flares, headband, EBs and that acid I was saving? 
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: a dense loner on June 15, 2009, 04:55:01 pm
i too think zippys sidepull is desparete, although i think that's due to long unbendy bunched legs. the ja is still a project for a man under 6ft as far as i'm concerned

good bit of history tc. i'm all for stories of daring do by men with beards
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Andy B on June 15, 2009, 05:39:21 pm
I also thought Zippy's Sidepull was hard for 7b+, let alone 7b. Typically knacky: ok when you get it just right, but desperate when you don't.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 16, 2009, 12:13:39 pm

Blockhead, that arete problem sounds good. Name?

How about... harris problem 6? or failing that if it's too mainstream... block arete?  Or anything you can think of that sounds appropriate.

the ja is still a project for a man under 6ft as far as i'm concerned

Thats what i mean.. if its only been done by a handful of people all of whom are beast or legends or very tall can it only be 7c? Bizarrely i got closest about 2 years ago (about 4 inches from the break without a hope in hell of catching it even if i had made the distance) by going for the break with my left with my right hand on the gnarly almost a pinch thing. Weird.

Rocketman.. you're putting the easy problems on the left in, but I'm not sure to what depth of detail you are going.. there are eliminates that exist down here.. mostly easy as far as i know but some upto 7a ish. Do you want to know em?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 16, 2009, 12:29:36 pm
the ja is still a project for a man under 6ft as far as i'm concerned

Thats what i mean.. if its only been done by a handful of people all of whom are beast or legends or very tall can it only be 7c? Bizarrely i got closest about 2 years ago (about 4 inches from the break without a hope in hell of catching it even if i had made the distance) by going for the break with my left with my right hand on the gnarly almost a pinch thing. Weird.

i've seen emma get close to this problem, maybe 4inches or so....she's ain't tall.

please lets not get into naming elliminates on here. i can just about tolerate existing 80s legacy problems having names (if you can call "seans problem", "gavs problem" etc as real names, which they're not) but giving everything anyone thinks up a name is elevating them to a level of importance way beyond what is appropriate. plus it kinda stops people harvesting any old shit for 8a.nu scorcards. next thing we'll be naming shit on pinches wall.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Andy B on June 16, 2009, 01:40:37 pm
if its only been done by a handful of people all of whom are beast or legends or very tall can it only be 7c?

i've seen emma get close to this problem, maybe 4inches or so....she's ain't tall.


But she is a beast.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 16, 2009, 01:47:49 pm
true.

(i'm surprised (for surprised read dissapointed) no-one picked up on the fact my previous post could have been misread as suggesting she is only 4" tall.)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Andy Harris on June 16, 2009, 01:55:34 pm
On the naming basis agree with you whole heartedly. No retro naming old eliminates or even new problems. They're all eliminates and it's unneccessary to have a name for everything.

That Harris cock will be realling that all his problems are now named 37, 43, 43a & 52. Serves him right.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 16, 2009, 01:57:27 pm
I never liked him anyway.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 17, 2009, 12:55:16 pm
Blockhead - list em mate and i'll get em listed.

I may have to separate out the Minus 10 left problems and the Georges Wall problems onto another page - getting a bit full on this page as is. Same system though, image top probs beneath.

Going through the probs now, will post up.

Hope to have Minus Ten section done by weekend.

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 17, 2009, 02:17:13 pm
Here's the new problem list. As I said, the one to the left might be listed on another page depending on the amount of problems - let me know.

I could do with Zippy's (variant 1) being a bit more clear, any ideas?

Also, Blockhead - can you give me that prob with numbers please?

Oh, and I've put in a couple of unlisted probs that we did last night on the right, nice stuff but not qualified to give grades... speaking of which, anyone want to propose conversions for the B grades (can of worms anyone!?)


(http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney/problems.jpg)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 17, 2009, 02:22:50 pm
This might be the publication that makes me start using 8a.nu.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: slackline on June 17, 2009, 02:32:55 pm
This might be the publication that makes me start using 8a.nu.

You mean you're going to crash their db by recording all of the eliminates at -10 in there  :P
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 17, 2009, 02:43:30 pm
Ensuring that I give a different name to each one.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 17, 2009, 03:31:27 pm
Also, Blockhead - can you give me that prob with numbers please?

If you mean the arete problem there are no numbers or letters in any of the guides associated with it. Its basically the left arete on the megatron block.. using handholds on the arete only (no sneaking round the corner) eliminating the first finishing ledge (which looking at your above guide you may be refering to as G?) by slapping past it onto the slopey ramp and finishing at the high ledge.

Hope to be out at stoney fri, will take a bit more notice of easy elims on left wall and work out how to describe them and get back to you.

Think zippy's PROBLEM var 1 as you are describing it doesn't exist.. you are trying to give it the description for zippy's SIDEPULL var 1.

Zippy's prob var 1 is normally the 7c version you have down as var 3.

Var 2 is normally 7c+ you have as var 2. The Ru's PDB guide has pretty clear descriptions.

That makes var 4 into var 3 and var 5 into var 4? Eh?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 18, 2009, 02:11:31 pm
As Dense pointed out, the final moves of the Pinch 2 problems need clarifying. They should be:

   Pinch 2     Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37, pull through to RH pinch on lip 50, fully weighting smear. Keep LF on smear 37, RF smear 43, dyno to LH sloper 51, the edge is out. Top 52.     
   
Jason's Variant    Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Jump off this foothold to get RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43, dyno to LH sloper 51, the edge is out. Top 52.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: etjoset on June 18, 2009, 05:18:28 pm
Zippy's Problem(s) - Not sure if this has been mentioned previously but you really need to emphasize that you have to use the lowest, poorest of the three downward slanting footholds as per the Harris foothold eliminator in Ru's book. If you use the larger of the footholds then all these problems become a grade easier.

I thought Odd Thing was really only 7a+ if you use your right heel to stay in balance. Probably worth 7b if you do it with both feet in the low break, though.

Harris Problem 1 - I agree worth 7b if you cram your fingers to the very back of hold 27 but a useful variant is to only take the outer part of 27, which might bump it to 7b+ (not as contrived as this description sounds).

Looks like good work.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 19, 2009, 09:15:38 pm
Rocketman - have sent you a pm with regards to the left hand side eliminates.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on June 21, 2009, 07:10:14 pm
 Was out at Tom's today and was getting a little bored. Ended up doing the usual eliminates and also Figure of 8 in reverse... I thought this problem was cracking and definately warrants a mention. Reckon about 7c? Has anyone had a tinkle on this before?

 A friend was trying Pete's Power Pull, there and back, has this had an ascent? Any ideas on the grade? Cheers.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 23, 2009, 09:08:47 am
Hi all,

So this little guide is coming on, see below.

Its heavily compressed and reduced dpi to ease burden peoples downloads times, this is most telling in the imagery which looks well ropey!

Obvious missing element is the left section (blockhead, i've emailed you fella). I'll probably squeeze Georges Wall into this section as well.

Next on list is Toms Roof and Carls Walk...

Comments or amends welcome.

http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney/Stoney1.pdf (http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney/Stoney1.pdf)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 23, 2009, 09:20:00 am
Excellent! Great work Rocketman, looks like a real pro job. 2 tiny points:

1. Gav's problem is at least 7a+ probably 7b, not 6c.
2. Please for hold 55 put "always use poorest and lowest of 3 edges" to avoid any misinterpretation. I used the second one down for years thinking it was the bottom one as I thought the lowest one could not be a foothold until somebody showed me the proper one!

I see that Zippy's problem variant 1 is going in as 7c, 1 grade harder than Zippy's problem. I mentioned this earlier on in the thread that the grades should if anything be swapped. Am I the only one who thinks the variant is easier than the original?

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 23, 2009, 10:49:55 am
I see that Zippy's problem variant 1 is going in as 7c, 1 grade harder than Zippy's problem. I mentioned this earlier on in the thread that the grades should if anything be swapped. Am I the only one who thinks the variant is easier than the original?

No.. i agree. Zippy's problem is a lot harder for me than either variant 1 and 2. Thought it was fair enough at 7b+ before the foot hold eliminator was introduced. Variants 1 and 2 didn't get much harder using the very small low edge for feet but the original version got much harder for me. For me zippy's.. 7c, var 1... 7b+, var 2.. 7c.

Rocketman have e mailed left wall stuff to you.... and the description for zippy's problem var 1 is still wrong... see my previous post...

Think zippy's PROBLEM var 1 as you are describing it doesn't exist.. you are trying to give it the description for zippy's SIDEPULL var 1.

Zippy's prob var 1 is normally the 7c version you have down as var 3.

Var 2 is normally 7c+ you have as var 2. The Ru's PDB guide has pretty clear descriptions.

That makes var 4 into var 3 and var 5 into var 4.

Does that make sense? Think you also need to get rid of the B grades. Would suggest the B6 is about 6c. The B7 about 7a or 7a+.

On the right wall B3 is about a 5+ish. The B4 .. 6aish. B6 is 6b. The B5 also worth about 6b? These are just guesses. Have done all of these many times but find grading them font stylee very tricky. anyone?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Steamboat Stello on June 23, 2009, 11:32:55 am
Good work with the guide. Has made me keen to get down there again. I agree with blockhead on the B grades and I reckon you might have missed a hold off the "B6 problem" on the central bit. "B6 RF Guidebook - LH 17, RH gaston 21. Egyptian low edges. RH 30. Top 33". Think this has hold 19 for lh as well after RH gaston 21? Could be wrong though as its been a while.

Anyone think it will be dry this evening after yesterdays downpour?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Andy B on June 23, 2009, 11:41:51 am
yes, It'll be dry.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Eifeler on June 23, 2009, 11:45:43 am
Typo on Megatron, should be A to F on the topo.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 23, 2009, 12:40:52 pm
"B6 RF Guidebook - LH 17, RH gaston 21. Egyptian low edges. RH 30. Top 33". Think this has hold 19 for lh as well after RH gaston 21? Could be wrong though as its been a while.

Think rocketman has this right. The B6 described in the rockfax went from pocket with left and slopey sidepull with right, feet egyptianed... then popped right hand to massive sidepull. There may be some easier version using edge 19. Minus 10 manages to stay dry even in winter... unless there's a pretty long sustained period of rain. Will be dry.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 23, 2009, 12:48:40 pm
topo looks good, but would it not make sense to actually number holds which weren't in the last guide instead of having all this "small edge/sidepull 30/40cm above 5." etc?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 23, 2009, 02:40:48 pm
Here's the revised version - now got left, right and georges wall.

Only two areas remaining... might have this done and dusted by Thursday.

Tried to pick up most of the comments but the ones on Zippys are a bit confusing.

Blockhead, could you write them out and post/email me - would be really helpful!

Cheers for the help all  :thumbsup:

http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney/Stoney2.pdf (http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney/Stoney2.pdf)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on June 23, 2009, 02:45:36 pm
There are two dynos on George's wall. The grade of Quent's is a guess (I don't know anyone who has done it), but it's certainly much harder than the dyno to the break.

7C     Quent's Legendary Dyno     From the large jug, dyno to the large sloper below the break.         
7B+ (soft)    George's Wall Dyno    From the large jug, dyno to the break.

Also, you still need to include Blockhead's Arete on the Megatron wall.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 23, 2009, 02:49:49 pm
probably also worth mentioning the original version of the Quent's dyno (at the base of Minus Ten the route). As per the description in one of the old OTE books, this has rules for feet - left foot on the pollished edge of the crack, right foot on a cluster of tiny spikes half way between the floor and the break. This basically turns it from a 7b that everyone does where you just have to stand up fast on jug footholds into something in another league. i've not really tried it or seen anyone on it but would imagine its pushing 7c. as we're being anally prescriptive about all the popular ellmintaes makes sense to be anally prescriptive about the unpopular ones too.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 23, 2009, 11:38:28 pm
Blockhead, could you write them out and post/email me - would be really helpful!

Think the Zippy's problems go a bit like this...

Zippy's problem.. 7b+ (or 7c?)..  just as you describe it.
Zippy's problem var 1.. 7c ( or 7b+?).. As for Zippy's problem but use pinch 50 instead of sidepull 48 for LH, then finish RH 53. Feet 41,55 and 43 .
Zippy's problem var 2.. 7c+ (or 7c?) .. As for var 1, but miss out edge 53 and dyno for jug 52 with RH. Feet 41,55 and 43.
Zippy's problem var 3.. 7c..  As for Zippy's problem but use undercut 49 instead of sidepull 48. (Have never done this so no idea about grade)
Zippy's problem var 4.. 7c+.. As for Zippy's problem to RH 47, then LH 54, RH 50, LH 51, finish RH 52. Feet 41,55 and 43.

Think thats about right. The grades as always are open to debate. I have always found var 4 to be the hardest and have not yet done it.. not sure if this means its 7c+ or not. Have never tried var 3,

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: highrepute on June 24, 2009, 10:18:54 am
http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney/Stoney2.pdf (http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney/Stoney2.pdf)

Beautiful!

Was out at -10 last eve. Guide very good. Only gripe, and a little nit-picking, is the number 2 hold looks to be in the wrong place. It's on the small edge/sidepull for harris problem and should be a bit further left to be on the sidepull.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 24, 2009, 10:46:11 am
all looks good, few more thoughts:

i'm not convinced its a great idea to give things names unless they're actually unique names or ones that actually came about outside of the writing of the guidebook. I don't think there's much point calling 2 consecutive problems "RF guidebook" or "harris problem", "harris problem 1", "harris problem 1.003", just leave em without names i recon, not everything needs a name. Plus historically it seems that names made up just for a guide statistically don't tend to stick anyway(see loads of boulder problems in the BMC guides as examples), especially when its just someone's name and a number, hardly very memorable ("odd thing" being an example of a name that not really worth having).

Given that one armed bandit is the same grade with either hand, why describe it twice?

do the problems "slopey sidepull" and "odd thing" not finish with right on 31 after you've caught that little edge?

sean's problem - mention thumb round the edge of the sidepull.

lucian's undercut seems to be missing unless i'm blind
if its going generally left-to-right, shouldn't zippys sidepull and variant be before seans?

zippy's - mention sloper 47 is the bit on the edge, not the deeper bit at the back.

there's also some more eliminates on the megatron wall but you'd really need a better detailed photo of that main pocket-system hold to describe them really.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on June 24, 2009, 11:21:40 am
Thanks for the feedback and amends, superb effort!

I'm out there tonight so will do a bit of sense checking myself.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 24, 2009, 12:43:23 pm
Dave is right... on Sean's problem the thumb around the edge of the sidepull when using crimp 24 is an essential bit of info, hadn't spotted this was missing. This is how it has always been done i think... would be hard without... but presume it has been done that way. Think also you are supposed to get your feet out of the break onto tiny edges before the move from the crimp throwing over to slopey edge 28. Suggest something like...

"Sean's Problem 7b+...  Start LH 34, RH 36 feet in low break. RH dish 38 and LH crimp 24 (with thumb around edge). Feet onto tiny edges and smears. RH 28, LH incut 32 finish RH 33."
 
The sloper on Zippy's problem is crucial too. I spent ages doing this wrong, once because of the foothold and again because i was using the wrong part of the sloper.. the scooped finger sloper at the back is out, the front of the sloper is in. How about "47 - front of slopey dish".

As already mentioned by someone in a previous post... think it would be worth adding a few numbers to the picture to cover the holds that are used in white ladder and and the harris problem.

Have you spotted you've got 2 letter "C's" on the georges wall picture.. and an extra 8a+ in brackets in the pinch 2 description? There's also a few jugg's, slopy's and a bloc in the hold descriptions below the picture.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Kingy on June 24, 2009, 04:08:20 pm
Oh yes, doing the move off the hold with the thumb wrapped around without your feet built up on the tiny edges firs is a definite faux pas (only possible if you're tall) - it does need mentioning in the text.

Something like 'no holding the good bit at the back' should do the trick for the Zippy's problem sloper, this has been in many of the previous guides.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on June 24, 2009, 04:23:55 pm
couple more points/questions.

On zippy's etc, the thing about starting with "outside edge of LF on hold XX" - is this actually a rule or just an observation about how people normally do it? if its not actually a rule (which i suspect it actually isn't) then it shouldn't be mentioned in the text.

also, on the start of zippy's its fairly common to see people starting with their right toe on a little vertical foothold over right in addition to the specified left foothold - if this is "in" then it needs to be mentioned, if not, likewise.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: blockhead on June 24, 2009, 09:24:55 pm
Not exactly sure about the rules for the start of zippy's. Suspect that outside left is more beta than a rule.

Regarding the right foot at the start.. if you mean the vertical edge way right in the little crack seam (under 43 in the pic) this is surely not allowed. I have always used a fairly shoddy well polished smeary ripple (probably about mid way between 41 and 43 in the pic). Always figured this was in and seem to think ben used this on pinch 2 in one summer... though can't be sure. Does anyone know any better?

Something like 'no holding the good bit at the back' should do the trick for the Zippy's problem sloper, this has been in many of the previous guides.

I know this has been in the previous guides but always felt it was open to interpretation. When I started trying zippy's i convinced myself the good bit at the back had something to the irregular boss edge thing right at the back. I thought the finger sloper runnel thing was to poor to be considered good! Think something like ..only use the very front bit of the sloper.. might be more specific.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: tomboulderer on June 29, 2009, 11:23:51 am
Minus ten mini-guide sounds awesome, hope Tom's roof is going to be included too, i recently did Fig 8 in reverse using the same sequence which goes at about 7c and would be a great little problem to go in the mini guide!
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: tomboulderer on June 29, 2009, 11:47:11 am
Should have read the previous posts before writing my last one, obviously toms roof is going to be included, Don't forget let's go round again (fig 8 in reverse) By me! (as far as anyone can tell!) Goes at 7c. Great moves in reverse. Also have pics please contact:

Tomdburrows@hotmail.com
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on July 01, 2009, 09:04:33 pm
Been busy with other things this last week or so, but its very nearly there.

I'll try and get the last section in tomorrow and post up for final proofs...

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: tomboulderer on July 16, 2009, 04:35:56 pm
hey again, recently didi another two variations in tom's cave which goe at 7b+ 8a,
reverse pete's powerpull 7b+, and pete's powerpull stright into the reverse 8a.
have a video too which i will post soon, would be great to see these probs in the guide!
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on July 17, 2009, 09:13:23 am
nasty traverse - on this it uses hold 38 described as "poor crimp". What is actually there is the poor slopey dish used on sean's problem, and just right of it is a little crimp in the seam. Now I always assumed that nast'y traverse just climbed into seans, but i've had it poot to me that you use that seam crimp instead, probaly beasue people have noticed that's what mr harris is using in the guidebook photo.

so unless nastly traverse does use the dish (and the harris photo is a variation) then there's 2 holds where 38 is which need to be numbered seperately.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: chris05 on February 23, 2010, 11:07:37 am
Hi

I realise this topic was from a while ago but was the guide ever finished? I've seen the linked pdf which didn't include Tom's roof, just wondered if I've missed the final version (yes I have tried searching!)?

cheers
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: slackline on February 23, 2010, 11:21:50 am
A lot of the topos are hosted on the Vimeo UKBouldering Group (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/files).

In this instance the Stoney Guide is no different to the last one linked from this thread (and for some reason doesn't appear to have the pictures included  :shrug:)

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: chris05 on February 23, 2010, 12:27:25 pm
ok cheers for that, wasn't aware of the vimeo group  :shrug:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: GCW on February 23, 2010, 03:28:12 pm
Finally got around to uploading the new version to the Vimeo Group (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/view_file:6283).

Which, incidentally, now has 100 members  :beer2:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on February 23, 2010, 04:37:31 pm
Looks good.

On George's Wall, there are two dynos:

George's Wall Dyno - from jug to break - 7B / 7B+

Quent's Legendary Dyno - jug to sloper - 7C / 7C+ ? (possibly unrepeated?)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Andy B on February 24, 2010, 06:15:56 pm
Looks good.

On George's Wall, there are two dynos:

George's Wall Dyno - from jug to break - 7B / 7B+

Quent's Legendary Dyno - jug to sloper - 7C / 7C+ ? (possibly unrepeated?)


Is jug to sloper not a Dawes problem?

Jug to break would be stiff for 7b I reckon. More than one grade harder than the minus 10 ones?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on February 24, 2010, 06:51:01 pm
No, not a Dawes problem. There was some confusion about this, but:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1519.msg15187.html#msg15187 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1519.msg15187.html#msg15187)
Quote from: ian h
i spoke to johnny about this problem once. he stated that he did not know how it came about that he did the first ascent. but he aknowledged quint fisher had done it first.

he went on to say quint had done it from specified low footholds which is why he went to the sloper.

Which suggests Dawes may only have done it to the break? The dyno to the sloper is the one that

http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=534 (http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=534)
Quote from: pantontino
Quentin famously sieged...over a four year period, even driving out from Sheffield at five in the morning just so that he could get better conditions.

I have heard this before also, but I don't know where.

Jug to break would be stiff for 7b I reckon. More than one grade harder than the minus 10 ones?

Going to the break doesn't feel much harder than other Minus Ten dynos to me. But going to the sloper is loads and loads harder.



Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Andy B on February 24, 2010, 07:01:56 pm
No, not a Dawes problem. There was some confusion about this, but:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1519.msg15187.html#msg15187 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1519.msg15187.html#msg15187)
Quote from: ian h
i spoke to johnny about this problem once. he stated that he did not know how it came about that he did the first ascent. but he aknowledged quint fisher had done it first.

he went on to say quint had done it from specified low footholds which is why he went to the sloper.

Which suggests Dawes may only have done it to the break? The dyno to the sloper is the one that

http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=534 (http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=534)
Quote from: pantontino
Quentin famously sieged...over a four year period, even driving out from Sheffield at five in the morning just so that he could get better conditions.

I have heard this before also, but I don't know where.

Good knowledge.

Going to the break doesn't feel much harder than other Minus Ten dynos to me. But going to the sloper is MUCH harder.

Everyone I know who has done this (not that many people, considering I knock about with lots of dyno fans) have taken considerably longer on this than the others. I've never tried going to the sloper, and don't know anyone who's done it.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on February 25, 2010, 08:14:52 am
Sorry - must try harder.

I'll make some changes and get a new version up somewhere - with pictures and everything  ;D

Check back in a few days...

PS I never got round to Toms Roof - I have the prob list, but no imagery... I could always draw something.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: dave on February 25, 2010, 10:26:48 am
Going to the break doesn't feel much harder than other Minus Ten dynos to me. But going to the sloper is MUCH harder.

Everyone I know who has done this (not that many people, considering I knock about with lots of dyno fans) have taken considerably longer on this than the others. I've never tried going to the sloper, and don't know anyone who's done it.

Georges jug to break is a shit load harder than any of the usual -10 dynos with the possible exception of quents with the specified footholds, and one-arm with feet high on the edges, neither of which I've done to comment on. Its also significantly harder than stuff like the buckstone dyno etc. basically name me any 7b dyno in the peak and this is harder than it. You get the picture.

Dunno if its just from being tall and bunched up on those high edges, but I felt on this you really had to pull hard with your arms, rather than the usual pendulum-and-legpush technique.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: r-man on February 25, 2010, 12:06:39 pm
Georges jug to break is a shit load harder than any of the usual -10 dynos with the possible exception of quents with the specified footholds, and one-arm with feet high on the edges, neither of which I've done to comment on. Its also significantly harder than stuff like the buckstone dyno etc. basically name me any 7b dyno in the peak and this is harder than it. You get the picture.

Dunno if its just from being tall and bunched up on those high edges, but I felt on this you really had to pull hard with your arms, rather than the usual pendulum-and-legpush technique.

Perhaps the problem is there aren't many true dynos in the peak? Not many problems to compare it to. I find it much easier than sitstart slap things like pooh and jetpack, neither of which I've done. Seems about the same as the Buckstone dyno to me. Perhaps as I'm not that tall I'm just used to needing my feet quite high for dynos, so George's didn't feel unusual. I found a quick two-bounce technique worked well - one bounce to get foot on the high edge, another to dyno.

I also think it's about the same or easier than the 7b on the Red Wall at Trowbarrow (without specified footholds, I only found out about them later!), and probably easier than The Ugly at Brownstones, which is also around the 7b mark.

Anyway, I know I'm not the only one to find George's reasonable. I've showed a couple of people, both of whom have done it pretty quickly. I also know someone who thought it was 7A+. This all goes to prove grades are subjective. Ground-breaking stuff...





Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: SteG on March 02, 2010, 06:12:16 pm
rocketman, d'you mind if I take the topo and turn it into an iPhone app? Obviously it'd go on the app store as a freebie and would welcome any advice (from anyone) about relevant credits/links in the opening screen.

If it sounds like something useful/wanted I'll post up some screen shots, agree wording on the intro text and all that, and go from there

Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on March 02, 2010, 08:47:45 pm
rocketman, d'you mind if I take the topo and turn it into an iPhone app? Obviously it'd go on the app store as a freebie and would welcome any advice (from anyone) about relevant credits/links in the opening screen.

If it sounds like something useful/wanted I'll post up some screen shots, agree wording on the intro text and all that, and go from there

alright mate. Sounds interesting, I'd be keen to get involved in the ui and design - you from a techy background?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: SteG on March 02, 2010, 10:59:50 pm
- you from a techynerdy background?

sadly yes, been working up some iphonage for a bit now and thought this might be a nice add-on for the topo. I'll email you to give you an idea of what I've got so far.
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on May 18, 2010, 03:14:54 pm
This is now as "complete" as its going to get. Had fun putting it together...

http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney (http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney)

Enjoy,

AtotheB
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Paul B on May 18, 2010, 04:28:36 pm
Good effort but how come Tom's roof is upside down? Is it in order to print it as a booklet or someit?
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: Barratt on May 18, 2010, 06:04:21 pm
Yep that's right mate. Print the thing double sided, fold, staple and you have an A5 almost complete mini guide :)
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: SteG on August 11, 2010, 03:38:38 pm
Edit-moved this post to a new thread
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 16, 2010, 09:42:49 am
This is now as "complete" as its going to get. Had fun putting it together...

http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney (http://clients.rckt.co.uk/stoney)

Enjoy,

AtotheB

Thanks for this. :great:
Title: Re: Minus Ten - mini guide
Post by: stokesy on August 17, 2010, 12:44:07 pm
Sorry if this is a bit of a thick question but in the description for punker bunker which wall is the 'sidewall' your not allowed to put your feet on? The one to the left of the hole (below holds a and b) or the right wall?
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