[abarro81]

Seemed hard to me too (as in I couldn't do it and didn't feel very close to doing it). Loads harder than the press at rubicon, which seems like a useful comparison since they're very similar moves. Harder than Zippy's sidepull or white ladder too. The main thing seemed to be trying to get your RF to stick on that crappy foothold.

[dave]

i'll check with banks, but i'm sure this is the thing I'm thinking of.

[r-man]

Inspired by this thread, I had a wonderful day at Minus Ten. First time I've been here for ages. Like pot noodle, it's wrong but it tastes so good.  Here's a new one for the list, perhaps it's been done before, but I'm giving it a name because all these variants make for confusing reading:

7c      Zeno's Sidepull     As for Zippy's Sidepull, but make the last move with RH.

[dave]

that is good cos it opens up the possibilty of doing the entire problem one-handed. props.

[abarro81]

Holy moley! (I don't actually know how to spell that.) How do you do that move with you right? Dyno from feet in the break??

[mrjonathanr]

 

[r-man]

that is good cos it opens up the possibilty of doing the entire problem one-handed. props.

Aha! You share my dream! Have tried, and it's definitely possible, but will of course be much much harder.

Holy moley! (I don't actually know how to spell that.) How do you do that move with you right? Dyno from feet in the break??

Same slopey dish foothold as per usual version, just fling your right hand up when you get stood up. It felt like an arm dyno - this is the only bodypart that needs to move fast. Found it quite tough to hold the jug even I when had the distance.

[Barratt]

Slow Progress - Main excuse prepping the office move, but many more in the locker.

The attached is work in progress. 1st page cover, 2nd page inside cover and so on... its top fold so that when open you can see the diagram, hold reference and all the problems on the page below... no flipping back and forth. Other sections to follow.

I've yet to clean up/standardise the englandish, illustrate the crag and take any imagery.

Keen eyes for proofing problems appreciated - comments welcome.

http://clients.rckt.co.uk/Stoney_v1_Layout_1.pdf

A note on IP/treading on others toes. I've used the same numbering/reference as both the RF Guide and the PDB Guide. Problem descriptions are obviously very similar. Images and illustrations will be produced by myself. If anyone has any concerns, just shout.

[slackline]

Like the layout there Rocketman 

[dave]

that looks bad (meaning good).

[Barratt]

Cool.

Imagery and illustration soon...

A

[GCW]

Nice work.

I've added it to the UKB Vimeo page, hope that's OK.

Can this thread go in the topos folder, Bubbs?

[r-man]

Keen eyes for proofing problems appreciated - comments welcome.

Sean's Problem Variant 1 + Mono - name is incomplete

Also, hold 26 is listed as a quartzy crimp, as in Ru's guide. It isn't, it's a good flatty. I only know this because it's important to the Odd Thing problem, which is a variant of the Slopey Sidepull problem.

[GCW]

Oh, and isn't Kirton Dyno supposed to be a double?  Or am I dreaming it?

[fatboySlimfast]

Kirton dyno is any which way, also one arm bandit uses the small edge footholds above the break, not the break itself!

[Kingy]

Great work! A couple of tiny things:

- is it worth putting in the Rockfax easy problems left of Quent's dyno (B0 - B4)? After all, the guide will not be fully comprehensive without them.
- please can you at least mention the grade of 8a+ in the description of Pinch 2. I don't know how it went down to 7c+ but as this is an eliminate crag, it will still be possible to climb it in this historically significant way from 1994 even if new easier ways have been found (I don't know if they have though? does anybody know the score here?). It used to be the hardest eliminate in the world after all!

[Barratt]

Keeping up the good reputation of us boulderers is challenging at times.

Fear not, the reputation is in tact and some mediocre images are in the bag - should be good enough for illustrations anyway.

[Kingy]

This is the info on Pinch 2 from the other thread just in case it ain't been read (scroll to top of thread):

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg204839.html#new

Nice work on the photos, can't wait to see the finished product!

[Barratt]

This sound right:

RH-pinch 42, LH- slopey crimp 36. RF- low edge, LF- smear out left then pull through to pinch (number?) (RH) fully weighting smear. Keeping LF on smear RF smear out right & slap to sloper  (number?) (LH)

[Barratt]

Full entry:

7c+    Pinch 2 (or 8a+ ?)   
Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37 dyno RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43 dyno again edge 51 LH. Top 52.  

[moose]

- is it worth putting in the Rockfax easy problems left of Quent's dyno (B0 - B4)? After all, the guide will not be fully comprehensive without them.

At the least I'd be grateful for some easy problems - I only have the Ru guide and would be grateful for a bit more choice.  In two sessions of trying to boulder at Minus Ten I've utterly failed to climb anything other than the font5 upper traverse!  Even the traverses in the low font6's spat me off repeatedly (and the supposedly easy straight-ups all seemed to have low, bunched starts that felt desperate for a 6'3" gangle-monster). 

[Kingy]

Full entry:

7c+    Pinch 2 (or 8a+ ?)   
Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37 dyno RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43 dyno again edge 51 LH. Top 52.  

Great, nice one for looking up all those numbers rocketman! The only thing I would add is that perhaps the ? after 8a+ should go. After all, I think the other thread cleared this up. If you use smear 37 to get 50 then its 8a+ as originally done. If you didn't then its easier, possibly 7c+. If anything, the ? should go after the 7c+! Sorry to be a pedant 

[r-man]

Full entry:

7c+    Pinch 2 (or 8a+ ?)   
Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37 dyno RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43 dyno again edge 51 LH. Top 52.  

From what Andy says, the original 8a+ version should be

Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Left toe smear 37 pull through to RH pinch on lip 50, fullying weighting smear. Keep LF on smear 37, RF smear 43 dyno again to edge 51 LH. Top 52. 

and the 7c+ "easy way" (with LF smear removed) - perhaps this should just be known's as Jason's Variant?

Left edge 36, RH pinch 42, outside edge LF 41. Sloper 44 with LH, swap feet on 41. Dyno to RH pinch on lip 50. RF smear 43 dyno again to edge 51 LH. Top 52. 

Have I got that right?

Orignal sequence
from RH-pinch, LH- slopey crimp
RF- low edge, LF- smear out left (the crucial bit)
then pull through to pinch(RH) fully weighting smear (this is the hard bit)
keeping LFon smear RF smear out right & slap to sloper (LH)

Newer sequence (although this is how Jason did the 3rd ascent circa 95)
from pinch & sloper just jump or lank direct to pinch then as above

[Kingy]

Sounds bang on R-man, hopefully there will be space in the topo to include this!

[Barratt]

Easy probs going in, i need em also! I'm also including the ups to the far right from the RF guide.

Pinch 2 I'll try and work it out and re post once the illustration is in - half done at mo. If I could do these probs it would be so much easier. As is, its depressing stuff - only being able to do (insert very small fraction) of the problems i'm putting in!