[dave]

do we need some minimum bodyweight pressure percentage that must be maintained through the left smear for an ascent to count? and pressure sensors installed in everyone's rockshoes?

[blockhead]

Loving the work Rocketman, but since when was Ned's Problem.. Ned's Problem? Think I originally posted this as a problem on a photo in the old Stoney Stuff thread in feb 2006, tho the photo's all seem to have disappeared now (where do they go?).

I remember saying at the time it was likely to have been done before, was just throwing an eliminate out there for the other sad stoney crimpers. Saw Ned crush it a month or so later.. saying he'd come across it on ukb.. And now it is Ned's Problem. I'm guessing this is just the name that people have come to associate with the problem, I'm not trying to claim it as a 1st ascent as i'm sure Ned hasn't. It's more likely to be a Ben or Jerry or Sean or Zippy or Andy or  ? (add your own Stoney hero) problem.

How about... Not Ned's Problem?

[r-man]

Sorry, that was probably my fault. The list on the first page is a result of all my copying and pasting from ukb pages over the years. No doubt I just attached that name to identify it, then forgot it wasn't actually called that.  However, it does pay homage to the history of misguided problem naming that dates back to Lucien's Undercut...

[r-man]

also one arm bandit uses the small edge footholds above the break, not the break itself!

Is it 7b or is it harder?
Should doing it with any footholds be easier, or is the 7b grade for this method?

[fatboySlimfast]

no idea of grades but one arm bandit originally was left hand in pocket, feet on diagonal and other thin edge, go for jug with left hand.

[moose]

do we need some minimum bodyweight pressure percentage that must be maintained through the left smear for an ascent to count? and pressure sensors installed in everyone's rockshoes?

Pressure sensors? Sounds pricey, you just want Minus Ten to be a rich man's playground don't you?   You, Bill Gates and The Queen all bantering about the correct crimp - maybe Bernie Ecclestone taking care of the shoe telemetry.  An apter solution for these recessionary times would be to place a small insect on the smear - a valid ascent must be accompanied by a fatality.

[a dense loner]

r-man the lf smear needs to go in. if you don't use this and use the little foothold an inch to the left or an inch to the right the move is no longer hard. plus i would take out the bit that says 'dyno again' and put 'dyno lh edge 51' i would even put 'dyno lh sloper 51, the edge is out' since it is.

the good news is this is the only problem i would consider giving all this nonsense time and rules to. i don't know why

[Stu Littlefair]

What if you don't use your left foot at all? That's how I did it, and it's definitely easier than using the lf smear, so I assumed that's what the 7c+ refers to...

[a dense loner]

interesting, pinch 2 and a 1/4. are you saying you jumped from the low foothold to the pinch then put your rf straight on the rf hold to pull through? remember you're tiny stu

if so i'm disappointed in you, i could have done it this way over 10 years ago. but over 10 years without sleep is a long time

[r-man]

What if you don't use your left foot at all? That's how I did it, and it's definitely easier than using the lf smear, so I assumed that's what the 7c+ refers to...

As I understand it, that's what Andy was saying - Jason did this version and others have too. I haven't done it, I'm just attempting to clarify. What was your thought on grade for this version Stu?

[Stu Littlefair]

dense, that's exactly what i did.

honestly, I tried to get my LF on that poor smear, but there are only so many days you can spend waving your feet in the direction of a poor quality mirror before trying alternatives.

I thought 7c+ or 8a was about right, but I have an admission to make. I'm not even sure I used the correct RF smear once I'd caught the Pinch. I don't now what came over me, I'm usually so good at pointless eliminates.

[blockhead]

Was at stoney today and had a chance to look at the proof while i was there. Spotted a few typo's and the odd description gone a bit wobbly...

      Zippy's Problem Variant 1 - Think you have pasted in the 6c+ PDB Problem 11 by mistake.
      One Arm Bandit LH          - Isn't the idea you only use one hand.. left hand in pocket left hand slap the top.. right hand behind your back
                                           a la one summer. Dont think u/c 22 is in at all.
      One Arm bandit RH          - Ditto

Do want the typo's? there's a few...         PDB Prob 3 - Ballance should be balance
                                                         PDB Prob 4, RF B7 + B6 - Egypcian should be Egyptian
                                                         Nasty traverse - missed t off right.. and m in crimp
                                                         Double double - extra s in flakes

Think Kingy is right about the Harris problem.. its proper nails. Quite a bit harder than white ladder probably worth 7c IMHO. And is the JABP really only 7c? Has anybody done it? Have periodically looked at this over the last 5 years and not made any impression on it. Its way harder than any of the zippy variants for me. I know it's only 1 move but its desperate!

The easier probs from the Rockfax around megatron are worth putting in and another reasonable addition is an eliminate on the arete.. using just holds on the arete but  eliminating the normal finishing ledge by slapping past it onto the slopey ramp, matching it and finishing at the high ledge.. about 7a+. Its probably a better problem than the easy arete.. and just what Stoney needs.. an eliminate.

[r-man]

Other typos:

-Zippy's Problem - there's no description
-Sean's Problem a little unclear - need full stop after "edges".
-One arm bandit - should it not be one armed bandit, as in the rockfax? Makes more sense.
-Harris Problem 1 seems to be the unnamed rockfax B9, except that here it says foot on 41, rather than feet anywhere stated in the rockfax. Probably makes more sense with feet anywhere, as you can't do the whole problem with only one foothold.
-Gav's Problem? In the rockfax, but can't see it in the pdf.

What do people think about grades for Zippy's sidepull? 7b+ always seemed a bit much for me. I reckon Zippy's Sidepull 7b, Zippy's Sidepull Variant 7b+, Zeno's Sidepull 7c.

Also, can someone please name some of these Harris Problems? There are 4 at Minus Ten alone. It's so much easier to remember things when they have their own names.

Blockhead, that arete problem sounds good. Name?

[Kingy]

-One arm bandit - should it not be one armed bandit,

A 'one arm bandit' is a type of early fruit machine with a lever on the side that you pulled to start playing or collect your winnings. They died out decades ago. The allusion to a one arm bandit is obvious in the problem name as you only use one arm for the problem. Hence it should not be  'one armed bandit'.

Yes I forgot about Gav's problem, its a great one with a cunning move rightwards at the start! defo put this one in.

I find Zippy's sidepull desparate. I would gladly accept 7b+ for it! but will happily go with consensus.

[r-man]

Yep, I know it's a fruit machine, but I think it's still one armed bandit:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slot_machine

[Andy Harris]

Who is this Harris fella? Seems a bit of an egomaniac naming dozens of problems after himself. I bet he has matching number plates for his exotic supercar collection

On a more serious note i'm not sure what all these prolems are and whether i did them or the knowledge was passed on (probably a bit of both). My suggestion is to have a mid week stoney evening session (shiv & the nipper are in Ireland) where we can test the memory banks and clear all this stuff up and whoever wants to come along for a stoney reunion can.

I can't do Monday but any other day will do.

[Falling Down]

It's one arm bandit.  Johnny had a right lip on when that Stone Monkey ad with Ben came out.

 

[tc]

More prehistory for you:
The first time I was ever shown the problem now referred to as "The Double Double" was in 1976, by Bill Briggs (who built Stanage) and Dave Morgan (who was supremely talented but very lazy). I think Bill was the first to do it. He liked jumping. And jumpers, too. Big thick ones. They went well with his beard. This is all just in case anyone actually gives a fuck, of course...
It's a good job some of us old blokes are still alive, otherwise the rich history of internationally important venues like Minus Ten, Fach Wen and the Breck might forever be consigned to the mists of time.
As for the JABP, yes I think I've done it and I think the Dawes has, too. I'll be down south (south of Shap is all down south now) the weekend after next so will now be heading straight to Stoney for another trip down memory lane. I'll check which holds I pulled on before submitting any claims that might later be regarded as the disjointed ramblings of some drug damaged old gipper. Now, where did I put my white flares, headband, EBs and that acid I was saving? 

[a dense loner]

i too think zippys sidepull is desparete, although i think that's due to long unbendy bunched legs. the ja is still a project for a man under 6ft as far as i'm concerned

good bit of history tc. i'm all for stories of daring do by men with beards

[Andy B]

I also thought Zippy's Sidepull was hard for 7b+, let alone 7b. Typically knacky: ok when you get it just right, but desperate when you don't.

[blockhead]

Blockhead, that arete problem sounds good. Name?

How about... harris problem 6? or failing that if it's too mainstream... block arete?  Or anything you can think of that sounds appropriate.

the ja is still a project for a man under 6ft as far as i'm concerned

Thats what i mean.. if its only been done by a handful of people all of whom are beast or legends or very tall can it only be 7c? Bizarrely i got closest about 2 years ago (about 4 inches from the break without a hope in hell of catching it even if i had made the distance) by going for the break with my left with my right hand on the gnarly almost a pinch thing. Weird.

Rocketman.. you're putting the easy problems on the left in, but I'm not sure to what depth of detail you are going.. there are eliminates that exist down here.. mostly easy as far as i know but some upto 7a ish. Do you want to know em?

[dave]

the ja is still a project for a man under 6ft as far as i'm concerned

Thats what i mean.. if its only been done by a handful of people all of whom are beast or legends or very tall can it only be 7c? Bizarrely i got closest about 2 years ago (about 4 inches from the break without a hope in hell of catching it even if i had made the distance) by going for the break with my left with my right hand on the gnarly almost a pinch thing. Weird.

i've seen emma get close to this problem, maybe 4inches or so....she's ain't tall.

please lets not get into naming elliminates on here. i can just about tolerate existing 80s legacy problems having names (if you can call "seans problem", "gavs problem" etc as real names, which they're not) but giving everything anyone thinks up a name is elevating them to a level of importance way beyond what is appropriate. plus it kinda stops people harvesting any old shit for 8a.nu scorcards. next thing we'll be naming shit on pinches wall.

[Andy B]

if its only been done by a handful of people all of whom are beast or legends or very tall can it only be 7c?

i've seen emma get close to this problem, maybe 4inches or so....she's ain't tall.

But she is a beast.

[dave]

true.

(i'm surprised (for surprised read dissapointed) no-one picked up on the fact my previous post could have been misread as suggesting she is only 4" tall.)

[Andy Harris]

On the naming basis agree with you whole heartedly. No retro naming old eliminates or even new problems. They're all eliminates and it's unneccessary to have a name for everything.

That Harris cock will be realling that all his problems are now named 37, 43, 43a & 52. Serves him right.