[Barratt]

Whilst at Stoney the other day, it was mentioned that it would be useful to have a bit of a mini guide for Minus Ten. Pulling together all the problems from the various guides and any new stuff not published.

If you'd find it useful give it a thumbs up and ill get to work. Goes without saying, it'd be a freebie.

Andy

[Dolly]

Sounds great to me 

[slackline]

 

[Fiend]

Would be great to have a guide that only dealt with the obvious pure independent lines 

[dave]

you mean a pamphlet? you could write a miniguide just about problems based around zippy's.

[slackline]

Would be great to have a guide that only dealt with the obvious pure independent lines 

But isn't the point of -10 that its an eliminate venue and its the gap in this level of detail that r-man is trying to plug?

[r-man]

Wossat? I'm not a plumber.

Fiend is winding you up.

[Fiend]

Am I bollox. The point of -10 is that there's a couple of good traverse lines, and the starts to a few good trad routes.

Eliminate venues WOTEVER we live in the Peak District not London, there's no excuse for not climbing on good rock...

[slackline]

Wossat? I'm not a plumber.

Fiend is winding you up.

Ahh, ok.  Only the other day someone told me gullible had been removed from the dictionary, I checked and it hadn't  

Am I bollox. The point of -10 is that there's a couple of good traverse lines, and the starts to a few good trad routes.

Eliminate venues WOTEVER we live in the Peak District not London, there's no excuse for not climbing on good rock...

Remind me again where you were on Tuesday evening Fiend 

[dave]

Eliminate venues WOTEVER we live in the Peak District not London, there's no excuse for not climbing on good rock...

so you'd take wet good rock over dry crap rock then? i sense you're missing the main utility of stoney here.

[Jaspersharpe]

Remind me again where were you Tuesday evening Fiend  

 

[slackline]

Remind me again where were you Tuesday evening Fiend  

 

Nah, he was scrabbling around on before moving on to some grotty little cave. 

(I had my first evening doing routes at Stoney and was mightly impressed, nowhere near as polished as the reputation I'd heard).

[Fiend]

I was dragged there!! Much against my better judgement!!

Stoney is good for routes.

I'd rather take dry plastic than dry polished eliminates, any day 

[Barratt]

That seems like a thumbs up to me, best get cracking then.

Would be nice to get the lowdown on the non-published stuff though. Suggestions on here?

Initial thoughts are pamphlet/booklet, along the lines of the new Parisella's. Perhaps 8 page, F/B covers and then a spread for Easy, Medium & Hard... something for everyone.

In theory it shouldn't take that long, just need to get out there to take a few snaps and get it designed/artworked up. Just in time for the heat of summer.

When done, free download, or if you want a shiny printed copy...

[slackline]

Wossat? I'm not a plumber.

Oops, was getting my rocketman and r-man confused there, apologies.

Go for it rocketman 

[r-man]

I sent you a pm, but might as well paste it here so people can add if they know of anything else. This is all the stuff from Ru's guide, plus unpublished stuff copied from ukb over the years.

Minus Ten Left

5     Upper Break Traverse     Left to right.         
6b    Middle Break Traverse    Left to right. Harder near the end.       
6c+    Wall Traverse    Traverse below the break, left to right.       
7b    Quent's Dyno          
7b+ (soft)    Ned's Problem    Sitstart break. LH-3, RH 4, LH 2, RH – Top break.       
7b+    Harris Problem    (LH-3, RH-4) LH- small edge/sidepull 30/40cm above 5. RH-break. Feet on smears only, no breaks.       
7c+ (soft)    Harris Problem Variant    As for Harris Problem, but go to the top break instead.       
7c    The JABP          
7b+    White Ladder    (LH-4, RH-8), RH- small grey crimp up and right of 6, LH- good edge up and left, RH- Top break (apex).       
7c    White Ladder Sitstart    Sitstart Break. LH-4, RH-8, RH- small grey crimp up and right of 6, LH- good edge up and left, RH- Top break (apex).       
7b+    Guidebook Problem 3          
7a+    Guidebook Problem 4          
7b    One Arm Bandit RH          
7b    One Arm Bandit LH          
7a+    Kirton Dyno    

Minus Ten Right


7a+    Slopey Sidepull    (LH-34, RH-36) LH-21 slopey sidepull, RH-25, LH-29. Feet anywhere.       
7b    Odd Thing    (LH-34, RH-36) LH-21 slopey sidepull, RH-26*, LH-29. Feet anywhere. *Look on page 326 - though hold 26 is listed as a quartzy crimp, it's actually a big flatty you can pinch slightly.       
7b+    Sean's Problem          
7c    Sean's Problem + Mono    Use a mono on shallow dish (38).       
7c    Sean's Problem Variant 1    Use sidepull (23) instead of edge (24).       
7c+    Sean's Problem Variant 1 + Mono    Use a mono on shallow dish (38)       
7b    Harris Problem 1    Start with left on edge (36) and right on pinch 42, foot on (41). Reach up left to the sloping edge (27) and cross over for edge (28) with your right. Lock out for the incut (32) and the jug (33).       
7c+ (soft)    Harris Problem 2    (LH-42, RH43) RH-44, LH-38, RH immediately above 38 in poor sidepull facing the opposite way, LH-28, RH-29. No feet in the low break.
7b+    Harris Problem 3    (RH-46, LH-46) LH-54, RH slopey dish between holds 50 & 52, LH-52, RH-52. Feet 41 &43 only.       
7b+    Zippy's Sidepull          
7c (soft)    Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1    As for Zippy's Sidepull, but use the sidepull lower down (no thumb in 24).       
6c+    Guidebook Problem 11          
7b+    Zippy's Problem          
7c    Zippy's Problem Variant 1    Guidebook Problem 13.       
7c+    Zippy's Problem Variant 2    As for variant 1, but miss out edge (53) and dyno for jug (52).       
7c    Zippy's Problem Variant 3    Guidebook Problem 14.       
7c    Zippy's Problem Variant 4    As for Zippys problem but use undercut (49) instead of sidepull (48)       
7c+    Zippy's Problem Variant 5    As for Zippy's to RH-47, then LH-54, RH-50, LH-51, RH-52. Feet 41,43,55       
7c+    Pinch 2          
7c+    Nasty Traverse          
6c    The Double Double          
7a+    Young American          
7a+    Megatron    Dyno from A to B.       
7a+    Megatron Turbo    Double dyno from A to B.

George's Wall

7c    Quent's Legendary Dyno    From the large jug, dyno to the large sloper below the break.       
7b+ (soft)    George's Wall Dyno    From the large jug, dyno to the break.       
6a+    Groove    Climb the groove.

Tom's Roof

7a+     Punker Bunker     (LH-C, RH-C), RH-E, LH-E, RH-H, LH-H. Feet anywhere except the sidewall.         
7c    Harris Problem 1    (LH-B, RH-A) RH-E, LH-E, footless, RH-U, LH-L, LH-H, RH-H Feet on back wall only       
7b+    Harris Problem 2    (LH-Q) RH-O, LH-E, RH-E, LH-B, LH-A Feet on S, ramp below S and back wall       
7c    Sidewall Traverse    (LH-D, RH-D) RH-N, LH-O, RH-P, LH-P Feet anywhere       
7c    Armbandit    (LH-B, RH-A) RH-E, LH-Q, RH-K, LH-I, RH-I. Feet anywhere       
7b+    Figure of 8          
7c    Guidebook Problem 11          
7c    Guidebook Problem 10          
7c+    Jerry's Problem          
7c+    Jerryatricks          
7c    Rack and Ruin          
7c+    Pete's Power Pull          
8a    Quintessence          
7b (soft)    Swing Thing          
7c    Swing Thing Reverse          
7c+    Swing Thing There and Back          
7b    Power Allowance          
6c    The Womb    From the back of the back cave. Finish as you wish.       
7a (soft)    Tom's Original    From undercuts, reach the roof hold, then the lip jug. Feet anywhere. Finish up the right wall.

Carl's Wark

7b     Carl's Wark Traverse     From the far left crack, traverse rightwards along a low line of holds. Finish up flakes to reach the break.
6a    More Air than Chocolate    Use pockets to climb the left side of the wall, moving rightwards into a groove.       
7b    Au Revoir Mono Doigt    Climb the centre of the wall. Highball.       
6b+    Soapspuds Traverse    The slightly shabby wall right of the main wall. From left, gain the crack and traverse right. At its end, reach the second break and traverse left. Then reverse to the ground.

[Kingy]

Wow, nice one R-man, quite an astounding volume of problems for such a small venue!! Amazing.

[Kingy]

I think Zippy's Problem 7b+ is harder than Zippy's variant 1 so either upgrade it to 7c or downgrade the variant to 7b+.

Robin, is the problem on this block up to the quartzy pocket with RH from LH on the ripple on the smooth sloping gaston described? I saw it on one of the old posts at 7b+ but its clearly nails and harder this.

[Fiend]

You can add Bubble's Direct Start (although obviously it's all about the full route really).

Also in Tom's Cave, SS on jugs on the far right, move left onto low slanting jug, pull up to the usual edge in the roof, swing left to Tom's undercuts and left again to sidepulls to finish in balance on rib. 7a (harder than Tom's) and the only other natural line in the cave.

[Kingy]

Just had the chance to look at my guide and yes the 7b+ I mentioned above is a Harris 7b+ - possibly 7c IMHO, it really is desparate cos of the severe lack of footholds!

Some new ones to add downstairs from the Peak Bouldering Guide by Al Williams:

1. Start to Scarab (easiest of variety of ways) - english 6a/b
2. Carl's Wark Traverse Low (keep low on bad pockets to rejoin original at Au Revoir start) - given 10 which translates to Font 7c. By the way, this is referred to as (another) Jerry's Traverse, I wonder why the name was changed? Possibly cos of the sheer number of 'em with the same name!
3. Wall via pocket right of right-hand crack on Soadsuds wall - english 6a/b
4. There are a number of 5c and below problems described which deserve to go in to give everybody something to go for. After all, the easy traverses are described upstairs...

Fiend, I think Bubbles start is incorporated into Carl's Wark Traverse which is why it is not described separately although I agree it deserves to go in on its own.

[Kingy]

Also Pinch 2 with One Summer footholds should be 8a+. i don't think Moonie would be struggling to do a 7c+ somehow!

[Andy B]

that left foot toe smear seems so poffed that it's unusable now. I found it easier to do the jump to the pinch without it. Is it needed for the next jump?

[Kingy]

that left foot toe smear seems so poffed that it's unusable now. I found it easier to do the jump to the pinch without it. Is it needed for the next jump?

I have not tried the move but Ben leaves his left foot there when jumping for the next hold and it seems to stay on when he hits the hold. Probably barely holding any weight though.

[dave]

Just had the chance to look at my guide and yes the 7b+ I mentioned above is a Harris 7b+ - possibly 7c IMHO, it really is desparate cos of the severe lack of footholds!

if this is the thing i think it is (and it is) then last time I was there we did this and everyone agreed it felt piss for 7b+ and a country mile easier than any of the other 7b+s.

[Kingy]

This is the one I was referring to:

7b+    Harris Problem 3    (RH-46, LH-46) LH-54, RH slopey dish between holds 50 & 52, LH-52, RH-52. Feet 41 &43 only.

I will have another go next time I am down. Intrigued to hear that Dave. Seemed pretty ard to me!