I’ve got a discovery + subscription for the month (£6.99) which I believe is showing everything
Anyone made the video work yet? On the app it just says "this video is not available at this time" or something similar, despite it being on the watch now section...
For those holding their nose and paying for the Discovery+ subscription you can get the £4.99 version for all the coverage. Cancel the subscription immediately after and you'll still have access for the month but it won't auto-renew.
Getting angry at the speed format again. I don’t mind speed being part of the games, but it seems crazy that the draw determines the placings.
Jakob and Jan would have won most of the heats but they had the misfortune to be drawn against speed climbers and now can’t finish better than 10th…
Getting angry at the speed format again. I don’t mind speed being part of the games, but it seems crazy that the draw determines the placings.
Jakob and Jan would have won most of the heats but they had the misfortune to be drawn against speed climbers and now can’t finish better than 10th…
Getting angry at the speed format again. I don’t mind speed being part of the games, but it seems crazy that the draw determines the placings.No, in the qualifiers in Tokyo it is purely down to time. You have two runs and the slower time is discarded. It's only head to head in the final.
Jakob and Jan would have won most of the heats but they had the misfortune to be drawn against speed climbers and now can’t finish better than 10th…
I'm impressed with the speed of some of the non specialists, they have virtually caught up.
Here's a thought, why don't we just abolish speed climbing because it's fucking stupid.
No, in the qualifiers in Tokyo it is purely down to time. You have two runs and the slower time is discarded. It's only head to head in the final.
I'm impressed with the speed of some of the non specialists, they have virtually caught up.
Cheers, did this and cancelled immediately so I just get this month. OBviously speed can piss off.I’ve got a discovery + subscription for the month (£6.99) which I believe is showing everything
Bit the bullet and got this too. There was a massive deal between them and the IOC (https://www.ft.com/content/9151c075-6387-4295-aca8-96392e181c56) so there seems to be basically no other way to get good coverage of the Olympics.
I got Disney+ first by accident :slap:
Can you watch it on catch up anywhere or is it only available live?
Here's a thought, why don't we just abolish speed climbing because it's fucking stupid.
It's a legit sport it should just be a separate medal. Lead and Bouldering should split out too. Why they decided to just have one medal per is beyond me
They do seem to have all the previous videos available on catch-up too, just checked with a couple of random athletics ones from previous days.Can you watch it on catch up anywhere or is it only available live?
This??
I'm at work anyway.
yes, in Qualifiers.
Does anyone know if you can use other people's log in for discovery plus from a different device, or is it more complicated than Netflix or Disney+?
Do you normally get to climb next to others trying the next problems?
Thanks for the info on this thread guys! Looked into Discovery+ and turns out we get a free 12 month subscription cos we recently got a Q Box! Happy days :)
Sadly, the commentary is AWFUL!!!!
If it wasn't for speed the rest might not even be in the Olympics.
If it wasn't for speed the rest might not even be in the Olympics.
So another reason to hate on speed climbing :P
Is men's 2 boulder really hard or something? Or am I misreading the scoreboard.
It's a legit sport it should just be a separate medal. Lead and Bouldering should split out too. Why they decided to just have one medal per is beyond me
Mawem on 2!!
Handy scorecard here - https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/en/results/sport-climbing/results-men-s-combined-qual-0001bl-.htm
Yeah I am excited to watch the catch-ups just to see what happened when Mickael Mawem did the second problem, cos he flashed it right? Impressive.
The option to turn the commentary off has to be one of the best innovations in sports coverage I’ve seen. Is this a common thing across sports now? It could make watching England in international fixtures way more palatable!
Love how they just showed the athlete on P1 chalking up on the mats the whole time Mawem was on the wall.
The option to turn the commentary off has to be one of the best innovations in sports coverage I’ve seen. Is this a common thing across sports now? It could make watching England in international fixtures way more palatable!
They've covered up all the bolts with little mini-volumes. A new thing so we don't end up with another Ondra disqualification when his foot brushes a bolt?
Watching the bouldering on replay... the Discovery commentators are the worst because they think they know what they're on about but are actually clueless :slap:Chatting relentless bollocks from start to finish
Watching the bouldering on replay... the Discovery commentators are the worst because they think they know what they're on about but are actually clueless :slap:Chatting relentless bollocks from start to finish
Looks like Bassa Mawem just tore his left bicep on the lead. Proper rough, that is.
Watching the bouldering on replay... the Discovery commentators are the worst because they think they know what they're on about but are actually clueless :slap:Chatting relentless bollocks from start to finish
Way better just having it on ambient sound only!
Looks like Bassa Mawem just tore his left bicep on the lead. Proper rough, that is.
Looks like Bassa Mawem just tore his left bicep on the lead. Proper rough, that is.
:sick:
If he withdraws is it a final with 7 or does 9th go through (looks likely to be Megos)?
:sick:
If he withdraws is it a final with 7 or does 9th go through (looks likely to be Megos)?
Megos goes through if he doesn’t
:sick:
If he withdraws is it a final with 7 or does 9th go through (looks likely to be Megos)?
Megos goes through if he doesn’t
Are you sure?
I was pretty sure that’s what the commentators on discovery+ were saying.
I was pretty sure that’s what the commentators on discovery+ were saying.
Would love to see Megos compete but I'll wait to hear it from somebody that knows the sport, not Johnny Concrete and a rugby player.
The BBC feed didn't even show the qualifying results, never mind anything like the individual event results and/or updates
If you just checked the BBC you wouldn't even know it was happening.
If he withdraws because he says he can't compete in the finals, then surely his slot goes to the next highest ranked in the qualifiers though? That's got nothing to do with where he placed in the quals; he can't compete in the finals, pulls out, there's a slot, and the number 9 in the qualifiers is brought in.
They've covered up all the bolts with little mini-volumes. A new thing so we don't end up with another Ondra disqualification when his foot brushes a bolt?
If Bassa withraws then we have 7 in the final.
Having been researching them for weeks now :wavecry: looked clearly like a full rupture of the distal biceps tendon to me. I can't imagine anyone being able to compete, let alone climb, with that.This.
Will he have to prove he is fit to compete Graeme?
Having been researching them for weeks now :wavecry: looked clearly like a full rupture of the distal biceps tendon to me. I can't imagine anyone being able to compete, let alone climb, with that.
If anyone wants me to make up a thoroughly ear-cleansing playlist after listening to that fucking commentator, just let me know.
Looks like some decent length coverage is now on iplayer "Day 11: Red Button - sport climbing & handball"
Can’t wait for tomorrow when the classic patronisation of female athletes is chucked into the mix too. :popcorn:
Having been researching them for weeks now :wavecry: looked clearly like a full rupture of the distal biceps tendon to me. I can't imagine anyone being able to compete, let alone climb, with that.
Agreed, surely that would be game over. Except the prime mover at he elbow is brachialis, not the biceps, so if the tendon has fully ruptured would it make no difference to the repair to continue climbing? Maybe very painful- or as it’s detached, not at all??
In the speed you go next to someone but you don't really compete against them so to speak. You get ranked on your time.
(Is my understanding anyway)
((Apparently my understanding is wrong and its a race off? Erm sure okay lol))
:sick: :shit: :sick: it is so vomituously awful. Speed "climbing" is bad enough but the whole idea of it being a comparative race too rather than just time-based is so utterly contrary to anything and everything that defines climbing.
In qualifying it's just on speed, in the final it's actually a race. 1st vs 8th, 2nd vs 7th* etc. The first race of the speed round is pretty important as it determines whether you will end up in the top 4 or bottom 4. For Ondra, getting a bye (If he does?) would mean he gets a minimum 4th, compared to his probable 7/8th without a bye.
*In qualifying speed ranking
I thought that lots of the climbers seemed quite nervy yesterday. Notably, Ondra and Tomoa didn't look to be moving well, especially in the lead.
Feels like Bassa going out must improve Tomoa's (already good) chance of gold since he is likely to score even better in speed.
I'm hoping the route setters will go rogue and provide a full set of old school crimp ladders for the finals on disgusting razor edges.
Also, Ondra's used up his hand jam problem get-out-of-jail-free-card. Seems unlikely that there will be another crack in the final and more likely that there will be a crowd-pleaser paddle dyno or parkour thing that will favour Tomoa.
I thought that lots of the climbers seemed quite nervy yesterday. Notably, Ondra and Tomoa didn't look to be moving well, especially in the lead.
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
Forget to add: Nice route-setting? No tops in lead, good split in bouldering - thought they'd overcooked M2 but it saw some action (although we didn't get to see it...)
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
This is such a joke.
I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
This is such a joke.
I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.
Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.
I think W2 in the heat might be tricky.....
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
This is such a joke.
I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.
Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
This is such a joke.
I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.
Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.
Exactly. The draw has been made and you don't redo the whole draw when someone pulls out at Wimbledon, whether they are injured before the tournament starts or halfway through. It's just luck, which is a key element of all competitive sport.
Someone needs to tell them they were getting Tomoa Narasaki’s name wrong (back to front) before the final…
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
This is such a joke.
I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.
Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.
Exactly. The draw has been made and you don't redo the whole draw when someone pulls out at Wimbledon, whether they are injured before the tournament starts or halfway through. It's just luck, which is a key element of all competitive sport.
Apart from having a bit more rest, a bye in Wimbledon becomes pretty much irrelevant once the next match starts. Not really the case here though is it? Especially with Ondra’s speed pedigree.
Isn’t this in a different league of jamminess compared to byes in other sports?
It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.
It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.
And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.
It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.
And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.
It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.
And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.
Agreed. It sucks, but injuries are part of the sport just as much as the other elements. If Bassa had been injured by something unconnected with his climbing, then it would seem a lot more unfair for Ondra to benefit from that, than the current situation.
It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.
And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.
He was 8th which is why he has an easy run, if he was 7th he'd be up against Tomoa.
Personally I think it comes down to the head to head format of speed in the final being a poor choice as there's too much luck involved. The qualifying format seems fairer imo.
Its a totally bizarre sitch, but maybe this will be the positive outcome i.e. it really highlights how whack having head-to-head is. Obvs we knew that already, but having to implement this weird state of affairs might actually sway some of those who made the decision that perhaps its a strange system.
This is the only time this format will feature in the Olympics.
I'm just entertained that a short segment of the Transformers score keeps sporadically playing. 52s to 70s, broadly speaking:
Someone should have warned me I'd need some pen and paper and a calculator to write down which hold everyone gets to and what their ranking is from the previous rounds as they never seem to show both. Guess the commentators worked it out for us. Still, next time add a multiplier for the number of Instagram posts they made divided by how many pieces of tape they have on their bodies just to make it even more accessible to nerds?
I've been an idiot. I hadn't thought of this as a two-step gig before. Only the 8 best ranked will progress, so the speed punts will be on the bus (hopefully the same bus, tragically falling off a cliff, killing all inside) long before the final. Phew.
Personally I think it comes down to the head to head format of speed in the final being a poor choice as there's too much luck involved. The qualifying format seems fairer imo.
TBH I feel that lead is the most unforgiving. Fuck up an attempt in the bouldering and you can try again. You get two runs in speed. In lead, you fall? Sorry, you've fucked it. Game over.
From my punters point of view it just seems like there is more luck in the speed final than in the other disciplines (not helped by the head to head format).
For example, Tomoa fumbling the clip in the lead qualification didn't instantly relegate him to last place. He didn't do amazingly (it's his worst discipline so you wouldn't expect him to win anyway), but it wasn't fatal. On the other hand it wouldn't take much of a fumble in the speed to put a serious dent in your scores.
Overall it just seems a strange choice of format. Personally I enjoy competitions where the athletes have a chance to demonstrate their prowess within the sport. I guess you could argue that part of performing in speed is being able to knock out respectable scores consistently, but in my very subjective opinion it seems like there's a bigger helping of luck in there than in the other disciplines.
For an outsider, I think the climbing has sold itself pretty short. There is the obvious speed vs the rest which has resulted in almost everyone looks a bit shit at some point.
Beyond that, the lead and bouldering lacks entertainment for the newcomer. Lead in particular is very difficult to comprehend without having done it yourself as the BBC website put it ...
"Lead is a little bit like driving an electric car and having route-anxiety. It's all about conserving the power!"
I hope they shake it up a bit more for next time. I would like to see DWS with technical routes against the clock like the Psicobloc Masters.
Giving it a multiplier of 1 seems a strange to me!I think that's kind of the point - winning really matters!
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
This is such a joke.
I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.
Someone good at stats/maths answer this! If the winner of individual event got 2 not 1, i.e first in speed gets 2 points, 2nd gets 3, last gets 21 points etc etc). Would that change the overall positions much? Giving it a multiplier of 1 seems a strange to me!
I've been using a vpn to watch it on the Canadian Broadcasting site and had awful male commentators yesterday but the female commentators today (both Canadian) were actually alright. Just a shame on the schedule so I only watch the lead (0610 start)
It changes it slightly, but not that much. In the Women's Meshkova would have qualified instead of Miroslaw.
I don't think there is any particular problem with the multiplication per se.
The main issue is that it gives equal weighting to the speed as to the boulder and lead, which is something that people on here don't really like.
I don't think there is any particular problem with the multiplication per se.
I do feel a bit sorry for the speed climbers, ..... , forced to flounder for a televised eternity.
I don't think there is any particular problem with the multiplication per se.
The main issue is that it gives equal weighting to the speed as to the boulder and lead, which is something that people on here don't really like.
Personally not interested in speed climbing but I can see how it’s an entertaining and an understandable sport.
I just don’t really get the the scoring. As it’s a combined discipline medal and you don’t have individual medals for each disciplines, you are looking for the ‘best’ all rounder climber. (I guess a bit like pentathlon?). So why have a scoring system that seems to favour winning an individual discipline.
As you say, probably totally irrelevant as it’s changing for Paris.
Anyway, mega props to Shauna. An inspiring journey and sounds like she had a rough old ride recently.
I guess they have the current scoring system to allow the speed climbers a chance of being represented in the olympics, If scoring was based on best al rounder then zero speed climbers would hav even qualified.
Just spoke to Daisy (non-climber) about the climbing. She saw some of the speed comp and I showed her the pitiful bouldering scoresheet of the top ranked speed punt.
"That's not climbing. They're just like frogs"
"This is a mockery"
"That isn't climbing"
My wife, ladies and gentlemen
:wub: :wub: :wub:
Much as it pains me, speed has been by far the most telegenic discipline. [...] The presentation of bouldering has been poor: too much simultaneous action and badly judged cutting between problems (as climbers are on all four problems at once). Too hard to track the ebb and flow of the round. After watching for an hour, i don't think I saw a single problem completed, just lots of low falls. I found myself bored and frustrated, despite previously enjoying bouldering competitions. Hopefully the finals will be better; if less climbers means the coverage can focus on one at a time on the bouldering.
The combined format does seem to pervert the spirit of the Olympics, which I always thought was about top level competition.
Was looking at how Erin qualified and looked like there were only 8 competitors total in the African Championship (7 RSA, 1 UGA) competing for the one spot, they seemed to all compete in qualifiers then all progress to finals. Looks like Graeme was the official there so maybe can shed more light. Wonder if there was a pre-qualification comp or if Covid prevented travelling competition (event I looked at was in December 2020)The combined format does seem to pervert the spirit of the Olympics, which I always thought was about top level competition.
Been thinking about this today, as I too thought the Olympics was about top level competition. But it isn't.
Yes it involves individual attainment, but particularly for climbing with the 20 athlete / 2 per nation limit, it's much more a contest between nations. If it really were a top level competition then you'd have people like Natalia Grossman, Oriane Bertone and Kokoro Fujii, etc. As it is you've got (and wishing her absolutely no ill will here) Erin "hasn't climbed harder than sport 8a" Sterkenburg falling off at move 7 of the lead route.
That's really devalued it as a competition for me.
The combined format does seem to pervert the spirit of the Olympics, which I always thought was about top level competition.
Been thinking about this today, as I too thought the Olympics was about top level competition. But it isn't.
Yes it involves individual attainment, but particularly for climbing with the 20 athlete / 2 per nation limit, it's much more a contest between nations. If it really were a top level competition then you'd have people like Natalia Grossman, Oriane Bertone and Kokoro Fujii, etc. As it is you've got (and wishing her absolutely no ill will here) Erin "hasn't climbed harder than sport 8a" Sterkenburg falling off at move 7 of the lead route.
That's really devalued it as a competition for me.
Megos should turn up anyway and the crowd should start chanting "LET HIM CLIMB, LET HIM CLIMB". If films have taught me anything he'd take gold.
Re Bassa withdrawal, I'm not sure it's going to have much effect: the two big contenders are Ondra and Narasaki, and this probably halves both their scores - in speed Adam goes from 8th to 4th, and Tomoa goes from 2nd to 1st. The alternatives would benefit Narasaki much more.Ondra goes from probably 8th to nailed-on 4th (minimum). Narasaki was .01 faster than M. Mawem in qualification, so him getting first in speed isn't a given: 3rd is a real possibility. That's ignoring Ondra's advantage over Schubert.
With only 20 climbers, in my view there is no good answer. Why not have 40?
the Olympics is supposed to be a worldwide competition that inspires people; I think it's all the better for giving people from these places a chance.
Neither Bertone or Grossman were competitive in world cups pre pandemic, I'm not sure they even entered Olympic qualifications?
Ironically, it appears Ondra has just posted a PB in speed.Three PBs in a row!
Ironically, it appears Ondra has just posted a PB in speed.
The point I'm making is that the Olympics was supposed to be the biggest event in climbing competition and the absolute top of the sport, when in reality we already have much more competitive events in the world cups and world championships.
I don't think there is any particular problem with the multiplication per se.
The main issue is that it gives equal weighting to the speed as to the boulder and lead, which is something that people on here don't really like.
People would be happy enough to see a 1st place boulderer, 20th speed, 20th lead go through to the finals, but not someone who comes 1st speed, 20th boulder, 20th lead.
Could be a costly punt off the flash go there from Ondra
Trying to watch this on my phone between hearings in the tax tribunal. Did I just Tomoa and Adam both fail to bonus in the run and jump problem?
Quite a tight top four and Alberto Gines Lopez is good on the lead, right? He's probably got a solid chance of the podium, unexpected there.
Quite a tight top four and Alberto Gines Lopez is good on the lead, right? He's probably got a solid chance of the podium, unexpected there.
He has a very good chance of gold
If Ondra wins lead, Duffy/Schubert come 2nd/3rd and Gines-Lopez comes 4th, then Ondra would get gold.......IT COULD STILL HAPPEN FOLKS.
| [th]Climber[/th] [th]Rank (head 2 head)[/th] [th]Rank (fastest time)[/th] | ||
| Gines Lopez | 1 | 5 |
| Narasaki | 2 | 1 |
| Mawem | 3 | 4 |
| Ondra | 4 | 7 |
| Duffy | 5 | 3 |
| Coleman | 6 | 2 |
| Schubert | 7 | 6 |
Highlights why using the score multipliers in combination with a head to head format in speed is a bad idea.
Either by themselves is arguably ok, but the combination is too distorting. Nathaniel would be a nailed on gold if it were done by time, and Ondra’s bye would have caused no issues.
What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?
What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?
There's a million and one methods to break ties with the ultimate one being the seeding.
What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?
There's a million and one methods to break ties with the ultimate one being the seeding.
What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?
There's a million and one methods to break ties with the ultimate one being the seeding.
Hardest outdoor redpoint
If Ondra wins lead, Duffy/Schubert come 2nd/3rd and Gines-Lopez comes 4th, then Ondra would get gold.......IT COULD STILL HAPPEN FOLKS.
If Ondra wins lead, Duffy/Schubert come 2nd/3rd and Gines-Lopez comes 4th, then Ondra would get gold.......IT COULD STILL HAPPEN FOLKS.
This could actually happen! Allez Jakob.
I really hope all the naysayers eat there words as that was amazing. As good as nearly every event in the games.
Two outsiders getting top spots and the last climber settling it all getting himself a bronze.
Amazing route setting. Amazing event. Climbing as a sport has really arrived.
And despite what everyone was moaning on about, the only section that really struggles to work as a spectator event is the bouldering, which must be like watching paint dry to a non climber.
The speed was mint and the combined format should stay, just make moaning Megos train it a bit if he wants to win. The youngsters will be doing it from day one so once the old guard die off it will fit right in.
I thought Jakob was just psyched to top the route, makes way more sense now! What a crazy unpredictable format, very entertaining, if slightly random.
Feel a bit sorry for Tomoa
If we exclude the nonsense of speed, as of course we should, the medalists are:
Schubert and Coleman tied for gold.
Duffy and Ondra tied for bronze.
I'll let someone else figure out how to split them.
Amazingly exciting final lead comp - just a shame that so much hinges on speed and the head-to-head format, which basically makes it a Random Winner Generator.
If we exclude the nonsense of speed, as of course we should, the medalists are:
Schubert and Coleman tied for gold.
Duffy and Ondra tied for bronze.
I'll let someone else figure out how to split them.
Amazingly exciting final lead comp - just a shame that so much hinges on speed and the head-to-head format, which basically makes it a Random Winner Generator.
Unpredictability is the thing that makes sport amazing.
I really hope all the naysayers eat there words as that was amazing. As good as nearly every event in the games.
Two outsiders getting top spots and the last climber settling it all getting himself a bronze.
Amazing route setting. Amazing event. Climbing as a sport has really arrived.
Someone like tomoa will never win a medal if its just boulder and lead neither will gines lopez.
The gold medal has gone to the 5th fastest speed climber, the worst boulderer, and the 4th best lead climber.
My suggestion that there should be separate medals for speed, boulder an lead then a separate combined including all three, not two. This will be like athletics and there will be people who specialize in the combined who are not the best at each individual component, just like decathlon.
My suggestion that there should be separate medals for speed, boulder an lead then a separate combined including all three, not two. This will be like athletics and there will be people who specialize in the combined who are not the best at each individual component, just like decathlon.
With the current scoring format, if you specialise in combined, so you come upper mid table in everything, you will not get a medal!
(https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/mO8UICqmeSd97l09w_FgSP1TDPQ=/13x0:1409x785/1600x900/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/55701645/Screen_Shot_2017_07_13_at_1.09.20_PM.0.png)
GME - who are these kids whose opinions you have so quickly canvassed?! I watched the speed with a 10-year-old comp climber who admittedly found it quite entertaining to watch, but who wrinkled her nose at the prospect of actually training for it. Kids climb at bouldering walls. We're certainly not going to drive to London to climb on a (currently non-existent) speed wall. And before you also write off their outdoor aspirations, I discovered the other day that, yet again, she's been telling her coaches that though she likes getting on podiums, she is much more interested in doing hard things outside.
I have never thought they were trying to find the best climber just the best at this event. The whole best climber thing is something for UKC forums.
Tomoa was possibly favorite but would he be the best climber if he had won? surely Ondra and megos are miles better than him.
My suggestion that there should be separate medals for speed, boulder an lead then a separate combined including all three, not two. This will be like athletics and there will be people who specialize in the combined who are not the best at each individual component, just like decathlon.
Kids will train speed it if there is a reason to do so.
To use the analogy of heptathlon again, surely speed climbing has more in common with boulder and lead than the shot put has with 100m hurdles or 1500m. But it works.
I have never thought they were trying to find the best climber just the best at this event. The whole best climber thing is something for UKC forums.
Well I'm arguing from the perspective of climber, sure if you are just after another event to fill out TV schedules that is appealing to a wide audience then you should replace the bouldering round with egg and spoon.QuoteTomoa was possibly favorite but would he be the best climber if he had won? surely Ondra and megos are miles better than him.
I think that's my point, I'd want the best climber (i.e. the gold medal winner) in a combined event to be down from bouldering and lead, in any event Tomoa would be in the reckoningQuote
I think you've missed a "not" there gme! teestub is arguing that if you are a solid competitor across all three events, you won't medal in the combined: you're better to be world-beating (or lucky in the case of head-to-head speed) in one, average in another and poor in a third.
My suggestion that there should be separate medals for speed, boulder an lead then a separate combined including all three, not two. This will be like athletics and there will be people who specialize in the combined who are not the best at each individual component, just like decathlon.
With the current scoring format, if you specialise in combined, so you come upper mid table in everything, you will not get a medal!
How is that any different from the decathlon/heptathlon, which i, and many other love. Not one perosn whos ever won that is world leading in an individual event.
Im talking about it as a separate event that people will specialise in with individual medals for each event.
My personal opinion is that speed and boulder have more in common for larger body types with large amounts of strength and power than boulder and lead, and as the sports grow these specializations will become more prevalent. Why should Mickeal Mawem or his like not have a combination event to try and win.
Tomoa would not even make semis in a world cup lead comp with a full entrant list.
I think you've missed a "not" there gme! teestub is arguing that if you are a solid competitor across all three events, you won't medal in the combined: you're better to be world-beating (or lucky in the case of head-to-head speed) in one, average in another and poor in a third.
My suggestion that there should be separate medals for speed, boulder an lead then a separate combined including all three, not two. This will be like athletics and there will be people who specialize in the combined who are not the best at each individual component, just like decathlon.
With the current scoring format, if you specialise in combined, so you come upper mid table in everything, you will not get a medal!
How is that any different from the decathlon/heptathlon, which i, and many other love. Not one perosn whos ever won that is world leading in an individual event.
Im talking about it as a separate event that people will specialise in with individual medals for each event.
My personal opinion is that speed and boulder have more in common for larger body types with large amounts of strength and power than boulder and lead, and as the sports grow these specializations will become more prevalent. Why should Mickeal Mawem or his like not have a combination event to try and win.
I've no issue with there being a combined event, it's just the scoring needs sorting out. Have speed based on time and give people points on their performance relative to the winner of each discipline. At the moment there's no differentiation between smashing the field in an event or just squeaking the win, or conversely losing a tight contest or having a complete stinker. Heptathlon, Decathlon and Modern Pentathlon have solid scoring mechanisms, not multiplication of placings across events.
Tomoa would not even make semis in a world cup lead comp with a full entrant list.
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=2276
Some pretty decent results against packed fields here
It all makes me a bit worried about tomorrow. I do hope there's no combination of events that could see Miroslaw with a medal.
Was looking at how Erin qualified and looked like there were only 8 competitors total in the African Championship (7 RSA, 1 UGA) competing for the one spot, they seemed to all compete in qualifiers then all progress to finals. Looks like Graeme was the official there so maybe can shed more light. Wonder if there was a pre-qualification comp or if Covid prevented travelling competition (event I looked at was in December 2020)
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1168
With three separate medals you can actually get the best person of each category winning the event and make it more entertaining. As soon as you combine any of them you end up with a weakened final with boulderers falling low in lead comps and lead not getting a top in boulder stood falling off some running jump for 4 mins.
If someone wants to prove they are the best at each event they can, if they want to prove they are the best at all of them they can try to win each individual or if someone wants to prove tha, whilst not the best at any they are the best allrounder they can.
That seems the solution to me.
Tomoa would not even make semis in a world cup lead comp with a full entrant list.
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=2276
Some pretty decent results against packed fields here
I have not got time to look but happy to reign my comment in to he would struggle to get to a FINAL with a full entry list.
Tomoa would not even make semis in a world cup lead comp with a full entrant list.
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=2276
Some pretty decent results against packed fields here
I have not got time to look but happy to reign my comment in to he would struggle to get to a FINAL with a full entry list.
I got you. In 2019, he came 3rd and 4th in lead against a lot of people.
The winners in the future will have no interest in outdoor climbing. I dont think a lot of them do now. - GME
I think you've missed a "not" there gme! teestub is arguing that if you are a solid competitor across all three events, you won't medal in the combined: you're better to be world-beating (or lucky in the case of head-to-head speed) in one, average in another and poor in a third.
My suggestion that there should be separate medals for speed, boulder an lead then a separate combined including all three, not two. This will be like athletics and there will be people who specialize in the combined who are not the best at each individual component, just like decathlon.
With the current scoring format, if you specialise in combined, so you come upper mid table in everything, you will not get a medal!
How is that any different from the decathlon/heptathlon, which i, and many other love. Not one perosn whos ever won that is world leading in an individual event.
Im talking about it as a separate event that people will specialise in with individual medals for each event.
My personal opinion is that speed and boulder have more in common for larger body types with large amounts of strength and power than boulder and lead, and as the sports grow these specializations will become more prevalent. Why should Mickeal Mawem or his like not have a combination event to try and win.
I've no issue with there being a combined event, it's just the scoring needs sorting out. Have speed based on time and give people points on their performance relative to the winner of each discipline. At the moment there's no differentiation between smashing the field in an event or just squeaking the win, or conversely losing a tight contest or having a complete stinker. Heptathlon, Decathlon and Modern Pentathlon have solid scoring mechanisms, not multiplication of placings across events.
And we all know that he's the best climber that's ever lived.
I totally agree with Nemo. It’s fucking tragic that Ondra has been driven to bouldering in a sauna (is this actually true?) when he could’ve been doing a 10a.
Speed climbing is a silly novelty sport that armchair punters like because it reminds them of Gladiators. The irony is that the best person at doing proper fast climbing - Ondra - is fairly shit at circus fast climbing…
1. Speed finals have been head to heads for years, they've kept the format for the Olynpics. Makes sense.
I don't think he'll be in the next Olympic final - probably not good enough by then.
1. Speed finals have been head to heads for years, they've kept the format for the Olynpics. Makes sense.
I don't understand this. In what way does head to head make mores sense than time? Except for knowing that there's someone over there who's trying to beat you, I find it hard to believe that whether your opponent is Tamoa, Ondra or whoever has much bearing on your time. Surely you don't change your tactics because they're getting ahead, you just fucking sprint and hope.
Try telling all those Russians and kazahks that it's a silly sport.
What a bullshit attitude. You mean it doesn't resemble a sport tgat you enjoy? It's not supposed to! Interesting how all non climbers think it's the most entertaining discipline. It smacks of serious self righteousness when there's a huge number of people who for them, see Speed as the most important form of climbing. Try telling all those Russians and kazahks that it's a silly sport.
What a bullshit attitude. You mean it doesn't resemble a sport tgat you enjoy? It's not supposed to! Interesting how all non climbers think it's the most entertaining discipline. It smacks of serious self righteousness when there's a huge number of people who for them, see Speed as the most important form of climbing. Try telling all those Russians and kazahks that it's a silly sport.
You’re right - that was a little excessive. And I did actually quite enjoy it. If you search for climbing on Twitter it seems there are 70% of people saying yo checkout the speed climbing #spiderman this is so wild i can’t put my pants on in the time they climb dat wall, and then a bunch of old misanthropes saying wot olympic climbing, they’ll have hedge trimming next time haha.
Although I like to think they some of the speed specialists might actually concede that it is a tiny bit silly.
Comp climbing is currently interesting to actual climbers as the best outdoor climbers are still turning up to compete.
If they don't, a lot of the interest in comp climbing evaporates, so severing the link would be detrimental to comp climbing in terms of the interest in it.
What a bullshit attitude. You mean it doesn't resemble a sport tgat you enjoy? It's not supposed to! Interesting how all non climbers think it's the most entertaining discipline. It smacks of serious self righteousness when there's a huge number of people who for them, see Speed as the most important form of climbing. Try telling all those Russians and kazahks that it's a silly sport.
You’re right - that was a little excessive. And I did actually quite enjoy it. If you search for climbing on Twitter it seems there are 70% of people saying yo checkout the speed climbing #spiderman this is so wild i can’t put my pants on in the time they climb dat wall, and then a bunch of old misanthropes saying wot olympic climbing, they’ll have hedge trimming next time haha.
Although I like to think they some of the speed specialists might actually concede that it is a tiny bit silly.
Maybe they do. I'm sure all sports people do sometimes. What was dave graham's quote, something like "never think you're that cool when you're just hanging out in the woods getting bitten by bugs".
We, of all obsessive sport types, have very little grounds to tell people their sport is silly.
Speed is the only discipline that makes any sense as a sport to a non climber.
I totally agree with Nemo. It’s fucking tragic that Ondra has been driven to bouldering in a sauna (is this actually true?) when he could’ve been doing a 10a.
If you gave points based on performance relative to the winner of each discipline that would surely only punish someone like Jakob where he won but only by a narrow margin. It would essentially put more value on being mediocre across all 3 disciplines than being really good in any single event.Was Jakob's margin small - seemed significantly better than Ondra to me? It'd depend how you assigned points, but as in Lead it gets harder as you go up the wall, a difference of one hold near the top should maybe count for more than a difference of one hold lower down. I'm sure points could be allocated on some sort of exponential/log formula to account for this. Similar with speed, each decrease in time by a hundredth of a second is harder than the last.
It’s not wrong and definitely not stupid.
People enjoy the skateboarding but don’t get it as a sport. BMX split as some of it is racing, which is far more exciting than the freestyle stuff.
Plus all of them have speed. For the general public Bouldering is a shit watch unfortunately skating, bmx, diving are not.
It’s not wrong and definitely not stupid.
People enjoy the skateboarding but don’t get it as a sport. BMX split as some of it is racing, which is far more exciting than the freestyle stuff.
Plus all of them have speed. For the general public Bouldering is a shit watch unfortunately skating, bmx, diving are not.
They looked like those circus elephants who have been trained to ride a tiny bike.
Just caught up with the final. Exciting?…yes…in a lottery kind of way I guess. Satisfying?…no.
Normally the excitement comes from the fact that a good performance puts that individual higher up the leader board and potentially into a medal position. Not just switches around all the other results below them in a seemingly random way.
Oh, and that zone on Boulder 3 should have been one hold higher, as it looked piss up to it then a stopper move which only Ondra held. If someone can maybe pass that on to Percy?
Now we're talking! Tenner on Dumbo, cut his ears off for improved aerodynamics.
The gold medal has gone to the 5th fastest speed climber, the worst boulderer, and the 4th best lead climber.
Take a bow, Sport Climbing!
The only way I can think to fix this would be to make it a flash comp, which might be a nightmare to set for but would mean everything is much more immediate and fast paced, yet also easier to follow and still a great way to select the very best athlete on the day.
One person out at a time, 10 mins on the clock, 6 problems to try, only tops matter 🔥🔥🔥
Speed is at least still climbing. In triathlon the Brownlees have to excel at riding a bike, swimming across a lake and running, three dissimilar events. Daly Thompson is lauded as an Olympic great for being good at chucking a spear a long way across a field, running fast around the track and being quite good at jumping over a high bar amongst other daft challenges.
I think the setters have nailed it.
In triathlon the Brownlees have to excel at riding a bike, swimming across a lake and running, three dissimilar events.
In regards to changing the bouldering format, does it really need to be exciting?
Bouldering is going to get lost on the watching public though unless it changes to flash or some other tweak to make it watchable - this shouldn't be a surprise when you think what bouldering's like in real life, who would pay to watch someone stand around staring at their fingers and do two moves every 3 minutes. Worse than sailing.
Bouldering is going to get lost on the watching public though unless it changes to flash or some other tweak to make it watchable - this shouldn't be a surprise when you think what bouldering's like in real life, who would pay to watch someone stand around staring at their fingers and do two moves every 3 minutes. Worse than sailing.
I quite like watching sailing actually, but then I used to do lots of it as a teenager. Itd be amazing if the windsurfing could have a wave sailing component as that's a bloody amazing spectator sport, but it would have to be held in Hawaii or Portugal every time...
I concur with the general thought that the final was very exciting, but mostly because of how much maths I had to do in my head to work out the various options of who would podium depending on where Jacob fell off. Yay for the maths olympics! :lol:
Side note: I'm sure there was some better beta on B3? There were a couple of feet holds not being used, and no one really tried a different sequence? Unless it was just poor conditions?
OK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!"
Reading public comments below newspaper articles, there are a lot of very positive reactions (including how physically difficult it looks, something I've always felt non-climbers struggle to get) but bouldering is almost universally viewed as extremely dull. It seems to be speed and lead the general public like.
My goodness me Garnbret v Raboutou was tight!
I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting.
Important result for Garnbret. She may well need that 5th place, but importantly also knocks Raboutou down to 7th at best.
I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting.
My goodness me Garnbret v Raboutou was tight!
I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting.
Important result for Garnbret. She may well need that 5th place, but importantly also knocks Raboutou down to 7th at best.
Garnbret put in a good showing there. Will probably helps settle any nerves she had with her best two rounds to go. Will be interesting with the Japanese athletes both ahead of her. Gutted for Raboutou, Hopefully it won't affect her like it seemed to get in Duffy's head as she's worth a medal imho.
I've no idea how good the Japanese are at lead, anyone know?Akiyo is pretty handy on the lead wall, came 5th in the 2019 overall season for lead. She makes finals in almost every comp she attends, and has a fair number of podiums too.
Looked like someone was up a ladder on B3 in the intermission. Obviously needed to make it harder to really stick it to those daft speed climbers.
From UKC:QuoteOK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!"
I was saying yesterday that I thought it was odd that no one went again with the RH. Seemed like it wasn’t that much further and then you could do a big move out the the final volume. I’ll take the top for it.
From UKC:QuoteOK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!"
I was saying yesterday that I thought it was odd that no one went again with the RH. Seemed like it wasn’t that much further and then you could do a big move out the the final volume. I’ll take the top for it.
It would be pretty cool if they showed a video (just to the viewers) of someone climbing each problem how they were intended to be done, before the first climber came out to try it. It would help highlight all the weird and wonderful solutions that the climbers come up with and it could add some excitement as you watch the climber slowly work towards (or away from) the correct beta.
Yeah this ^. Was thinking the same yesterday. Would be a simple way to give general viewers a greater understanding. Not sure if the beta would then get relayed to the climbers by members of audience?
Commentator quote of the day:
"It's visually appealing, especially to the eye"
Edit: ha Pete beat me to it
Looked like someone was up a ladder on B3 in the intermission. Obviously needed to make it harder to really stick it to those daft speed climbers.
So a speed specialist is currently ahead of Miho and Jessie after the 1st boulder.
Makes you wonder though. It would be really easy to have a code known to the competitor and the coach which can guide the climbers towards or away from a duff sequence. It looks like this palm-down method is the way that it was intended to be done (looking at all the route setter chalk on the top of the lower yellow volume), but we've seen that it's much easier to do it as a rock over.
Even if it were as simple as "Go on" means you're warm and "come on" means you need to do something different.
Even if it were as simple as "Go on" means you're warm and "come on" means you need to do something different.
So a speed specialist is currently ahead of Miho and Jessie after the 1st boulder.
I have to say I am surprised. Miroslaw actually managed to achieve the starting position on problem 1 a few times. Remarkable.
Graeme, ever noticed this kind of thing on the circuit?
I’d pay good money to see a combined-discipline face off between Will and Fiend and the speed specialists they keep calling punters. :popcorn:
Has anyone else on here ever attempted to do the speed route in less than a minute? It’s fucking nails!
I’d pay good money to see a combined-discipline face off between Will and Fiend and the speed specialists they keep calling punters. :popcorn:
Janja is just so dominant. Another level. I feel like the men's was a bit more exciting because there was less of a clear and obvious just top end individual, the women's is like a comp for silver almost.
I think the standard speed route when climbed statically is actually good training for the style of climbing at Gogarth. Awkward blobby pinches. Doing lots of slow laps on it is quite good for main wall fitness.
I’d pay good money to see a combined-discipline face off between Will and Fiend and the speed specialists they keep calling punters. :popcorn:
I'll save you the money and give you the result. Any of the speed people would destroy us.
Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?
Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?
Slip on B1 no?
Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?
Slip on B1 no?
Thought it was there on the speed, thought it may have been in quals
Anybody else imagining the Wideboys commentating on B3
the speed punts will be on the bus (hopefully the same bus, tragically falling off a cliff, killing all inside)FFS. Pure comedy eh?
Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?
With 2 climbers tied on 64 points, what is it that they use to split them?
With 2 climbers tied on 64 points, what is it that they use to split them?
I think the1st tie breaker is head to head, so Akiyo beat Alexsanra twice
For those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? :???:
1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]
2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]
3. Seo (14) [7*2]
4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz (15) [5*3]
6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]
7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]
8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]
I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.
For those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? :???:
1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]
2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]
3. Seo (14) [7*2]
4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz (15) [5*3]
6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]
7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]
8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]
I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.
For those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? :???:
1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]
2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]
3. Seo (14) [7*2]
4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz (15) [5*3]
6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]
7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]
8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]
I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.
;D, but still no need for multiplying rubbish (why should Seo be above Nonako or Pilz. Just add the scores and if scores are equal then person with highest best placing wins.
1. Garnbret (2) [1+1]
2. Raboutou (8) [2+6]
4 Nonaka (8) [3+5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz (8) [5+3]
6. Noguchi (8) [4+4]
3. Seo (9) [7+2]
7. Jaubert (13) [6+7]
8. Miroslaw (16) [8+8]
Do we know yet how Paris will be worked out and how ties might be broken? Seems like with multiplication or addition there's a good chance of seeing ties with only two disciplines. Have looked on the IFSC website but can't see anything.
Do we know yet how Paris will be worked out and how ties might be broken? Seems like with multiplication or addition there's a good chance of seeing ties with only two disciplines. Have looked on the IFSC website but can't see anything.
A speed climb.
I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.
I've been thinking about this far too much (especially for a combined event that looks set to be scrapped), but having a play around with the numbers I think a points system like this could work:If you gave points based on performance relative to the winner of each discipline that would surely only punish someone like Jakob where he won but only by a narrow margin. It would essentially put more value on being mediocre across all 3 disciplines than being really good in any single event.Was Jakob's margin small - seemed significantly better than Ondra to me? It'd depend how you assigned points, but as in Lead it gets harder as you go up the wall, a difference of one hold near the top should maybe count for more than a difference of one hold lower down. I'm sure points could be allocated on some sort of exponential/log formula to account for this. Similar with speed, each decrease in time by a hundredth of a second is harder than the last.
Just watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?
Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?
Just watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?
Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?
is it so they can put the pressure plate thing, that they start off, in the right place?
Just watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?
Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?
is it so they can put the pressure plate thing, that they start off, in the right place?
She was out of her depth in the bouldering but I would have thought she'd have a got a little bit further in the lead.
Gutted for Raboutou, feel like some of the setting didn't suit her being so small tbh.
She was out of her depth in the bouldering but I would have thought she'd have a got a little bit further in the lead.
She got to the 4th clip in qualifying so 3rd clip is about right for the final? She obviously didn't expect to get too far herself - she was the only one not to bother bringing out a pair of binoculars.
Apologies if this has already been asked and answered but how hard are the men's and women's lead routes? I can't find any reference to the exact grades.
Anyone know what the hardest outdoor boulders and leads she's done?
Janja gets the Imperial Death March as her entrance music 🤣Is there any video of this majestic stroke of genius?
Have to say among all the non-medalist Insta posts, Ondra's is standout as veering very close to sour grapes. He's obviously an incredible climber, but on the day he was captain average, despite the speed gift. Disappointing.
Speed climbing should be combined with BMX, surfing, skateboarding and breakdancing for a post-modern pentathlon.
Have to say among all the non-medalist Insta posts, Ondra's is standout as veering very close to sour grapes. He's obviously an incredible climber, but on the day he was captain average, despite the speed gift. Disappointing.
Have to say though, found the bouldering a little dull - for non-climbing audience, proper snore-fest - 1 hour of people failing to climbing anything (except Janja). Shame, as the rest of the setting was fantastic, but then if you set for "everyone except Janja", not sure it helps anyone.
Have to say among all the non-medalist Insta posts, Ondra's is standout as veering very close to sour grapes. He's obviously an incredible climber, but on the day he was captain average, despite the speed gift. Disappointing.
Yeah, this post is a shocker. Not written by Adam, but hopefully he has oversight and should suggest it gets taken down.
It's super-salty, and paints him as a bad loser.
Nah, love a bit of aggro. It's a competition, and all the best competitions involve rivalry and sour grapes. Especially when there is a very clear issue around the scoring and how the "winner and other medalists" were chosen. All the lovely posts on social media about how well everyone did etc. are frankly a bit boring if you ask me!
Not that I disagree that he was a bit average (for Ondra), and wouldn't really have deserved a medal if he'd got one (but then again just as Gines-Lopez, if we're being honest, didn't really deserve the gold).
What did everyone think of Ondra being short roped? It seemed nuts to me, I thought he looked noticeably slower at clipping after that, I can imagine it upsetting his flow/speed quite a bit.
Have to say among all the non-medalist Insta posts, Ondra's is standout as veering very close to sour grapes. He's obviously an incredible climber, but on the day he was captain average, despite the speed gift. Disappointing.
Yeah, this post is a shocker. Not written by Adam, but hopefully he has oversight and should suggest it gets taken down.
It's super-salty, and paints him as a bad loser.
Can someone copy and paste - I am not on Instgram
and yes, without even slightly degrading anybody’s performance having just that little bit more luck on his side
AO landed with his arse in the butter more than anyone.
better clipping positions than most
Unfortunately beaten by some Schubert bionicism.
Ms particular stand-outs were the visual aesthetics of B3, Ondra's near flawless movement on lead, and Jakob bettering that on lead.
I know that seems unbelievable given my form for hating on speed, its practitioners, and its apologists, but that's what he said with no prompting from me.
I think what impressed him most was that the sport relied on being able to figure out a novel set of complex moves in just a few minutes. Thinking about it, are there (m)any other Olympic sports where this is the case? Mountain biking and canoe slalom courses change but they do get practice runs on them.
I think what impressed him most was that the sport relied on being able to figure out a novel set of complex moves in just a few minutes.
Unfortunately beaten by some Schubert bionicism.
Why is it unfortunate that Schubert was stronger than Ondra on the day?
Ms particular stand-outs were the visual aesthetics of B3, Ondra's near flawless movement on lead, and Jakob bettering that on lead.
Surprised you say that as I thought it looks great in the photos now circulating on Instagram but the footage of it during the event was terrible!
Pity Snoop wasn't commentating for the whole event..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zxj-O-51WFs
Thinking about it, are there (m)any other Olympic sports where this is the case? Mountain biking and canoe slalom courses change but they do get practice runs on them.
Mountain biking and canoe slalom courses change but they do get practice runs on them.
I wonder if for the Paris Games they will be able to change the speed route, to the Grandes Jorasses North Face, that would spice it up a bit!!
Wow that’s cool, I remember seeing it mooted but didn’t realise they’d gone for it, assume it would have gone for somewhere on the Atlantic coast. I don’t really know much about surf comps, would you be looking at a different batch of surfers attempting to qualify with it being a big wave spot rather than a tricks in smaller waves type venue?
I've just read climbing is not in the Paralympics. Is that correct? Seems a shame they couldn't be started at the same time.