[edshakey]

Given Janja's tendency to cruise everything that other competitors make look very hard, does anyone know if she has particularly high measurements on deadhangs, weighted pullups, etc.
Sometimes she can relax on holds that other people have struggled to hold, but I've never heard anything of her getting particularly high scores on standard training tests, so does she just have unreal technique?

[spidermonkey09]

Massive result for Garnbret, surely that makes her even more odds on than she previously was.

[James Malloch]

I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting.

I quite like the format of the knock out. Like in Football you have the Domestic Leagues which require consistency, but the FA Cup, World Cup etc are exciting as they penalise mistakes and allow the underdogs a chance.

Whether it’s the best way to do it in a combined event is a different matter though, but I still quite liked it.

I thoroughly enjoyed the excitement (chaos?) of the final yesterday - it made it quite a spectacle for me which is how I think of the Olympics. Really looking forward to today!

[Aussiegav]

Guessing from the qualifications, I guess   Janja is in a good position for gold.

A 15 point total  would guarantee gold. 
She’d just need to be in the top 3 in lead.

[Bradders]

My goodness me Garnbret v Raboutou was tight!

I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting.

Important result for Garnbret. She may well need that 5th place, but importantly also knocks Raboutou down to 7th at best.

Garnbret put in a good showing there. Will probably helps settle any nerves she had with her best two rounds to go. Will be interesting with the Japanese athletes both ahead of her. Gutted for Raboutou, Hopefully it won't affect her like it seemed to get in Duffy's head as she's worth a medal imho.

Yeah I reckon Raboutou's only route to gold now will be to win at least one of the other events, and take at least second in the other and hope that Garnbret has a mare. Seems unlikely.

I've no idea how good the Japanese are at lead, anyone know?

[Will Hunt]

Looked like someone was up a ladder on B3 in the intermission. Obviously needed to make it harder to really stick it to those daft speed climbers.

[edshakey]

I've no idea how good the Japanese are at lead, anyone know?

Akiyo is pretty handy on the lead wall, came 5th in the 2019 overall season for lead. She makes finals in almost every comp she attends, and has a fair number of podiums too.
Miho is definitely worse, normally semis in world cups, but did place 5th in Innsbruck, which had a good number of other competitors there so not the easiest field.

[Aussiegav]

Looked like someone was up a ladder on B3 in the intermission. Obviously needed to make it harder to really stick it to those daft speed climbers.

Show some respect, they’re Olympians. Done a lot of hard work and sacrifices to get there.

[36chambers]

From UKC:

  OK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!"

I was saying yesterday that I thought it was odd that no one went again with the RH. Seemed like it wasn’t that much further and then you could do a big move out the the final volume. I’ll take the top for it.

It would be pretty cool if they showed a video (just to the viewers) of someone climbing each problem how they were intended to be done, before the first climber came out to try it. It would help highlight all the weird and wonderful solutions that the climbers come up with and it could add some excitement as you watch the climber slowly work towards (or away from) the correct beta.

[James Malloch]

From UKC:

  OK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!"

I was saying yesterday that I thought it was odd that no one went again with the RH. Seemed like it wasn’t that much further and then you could do a big move out the the final volume. I’ll take the top for it.

It would be pretty cool if they showed a video (just to the viewers) of someone climbing each problem how they were intended to be done, before the first climber came out to try it. It would help highlight all the weird and wonderful solutions that the climbers come up with and it could add some excitement as you watch the climber slowly work towards (or away from) the correct beta.

It would be.

What are the route setting teams like? I.e. will they be able to climb them, or does doing individual sections and their experience allows them to get grades right despite not necessarily climbing them?

[petejh]

Yeah this ^. Was thinking the same yesterday. Would be a simple way to give general viewers a greater understanding. Not sure if the beta would then get relayed to the climbers by members of audience?

Did I hear correctly this classic quip from Bryn? 'it's certainly visually appealing, especially to the eye'.

[Bradders]

Commentator quote of the day:

"It's visually appealing, especially to the eye"

Edit: ha Pete beat me to it

[crimpinainteasy]

What's interesting is that if Bassa hadn't been injured, and Alberto had to face him in the speed then it's likely Alberto wouldn't have podiumed in the overall. Tomoa and Jakob got screwed over the most by Bassa not being in finals since everyone but their speed scores would have been affected and Adam and Alberto stood to benefit the most.

[edshakey]

Yeah this ^. Was thinking the same yesterday. Would be a simple way to give general viewers a greater understanding. Not sure if the beta would then get relayed to the climbers by members of audience?

I think it would be fine - I don't think there is much beta shouted from the audience when someone does a boulder (therefore probably getting the right sequence) and then the next climber is struggling to work it out.

[petejh]

Commentator quote of the day:

"It's visually appealing, especially to the eye"

Edit: ha Pete beat me to it

It was auditorily amusing, especially to my ear.

[GraemeA]

So a speed specialist is currently ahead of Miho and Jessie after the 1st boulder.

[petejh]

I'm sure they'll be made to look the fools they undoubtedly are..

Looked like someone was up a ladder on B3 in the intermission. Obviously needed to make it harder to really stick it to those daft speed climbers.

[Will Hunt]

Makes you wonder though. It would be really easy to have a code known to the competitor and the coach which can guide the climbers towards or away from a duff sequence. It looks like this palm-down method is the way that it was intended to be done (looking at all the route setter chalk on the top of the lower yellow volume), but we've seen that it's much easier to do it as a rock over.

Even if it were as simple as "Go on" means you're warm and "come on" means you need to do something different.

[Will Hunt]

So a speed specialist is currently ahead of Miho and Jessie after the 1st boulder.

I have to say I am surprised. Miroslaw actually managed to achieve the starting position on problem 1 a few times. Remarkable.

[SA Chris]

classic commentary - "her percentage of reaching the top of a boulder is 6 times out of 10"

[petejh]

Makes you wonder though. It would be really easy to have a code known to the competitor and the coach which can guide the climbers towards or away from a duff sequence. It looks like this palm-down method is the way that it was intended to be done (looking at all the route setter chalk on the top of the lower yellow volume), but we've seen that it's much easier to do it as a rock over.

Even if it were as simple as "Go on" means you're warm and "come on" means you need to do something different.

Yep, I've thought this before for bouldering. So much can pivot on number of goes.. that a simple signalling system a la Who Wants to be a Millionaire could be beneficial. Could just be for 'correct sequence' / 'incorrect sequence', or something more complicated could also be trained. Depends how cheaty they wanted to try being. ROC I'm sure could come up with something elaborate.

[crimpinainteasy]

Speed specialist is burning everyone off lol

[edshakey]

Even if it were as simple as "Go on" means you're warm and "come on" means you need to do something different.

I've often wondered if this kind of thing happens - surely it would be beneficial to come up with a plan like this, as it'd be very hard to detect. Graeme, ever noticed this kind of thing on the circuit?

Maybe with a video preview for the audience/viewers at home, all coaches would have the same opportunity to secretly coach their athletes. Rather than currently: the first ones out not having a precedent to use, and then the later ones can use all the previous competitors as a video preview of sorts.

[galpinos]

Massive blow for Brooke that. Gutting. Would have put her in a v strong position. Looked a bit mentally broken walking off....

[GraemeA]

So a speed specialist is currently ahead of Miho and Jessie after the 1st boulder.

I have to say I am surprised. Miroslaw actually managed to achieve the starting position on problem 1 a few times. Remarkable.

Don't be so rude. Most speed specialists climb recreationally on lead and boulder as well. They just happen to be very good at speed so have specialised.