I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting.
Quote from: Bradders on August 06, 2021, 09:48:45 amMy goodness me Garnbret v Raboutou was tight! I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting. Important result for Garnbret. She may well need that 5th place, but importantly also knocks Raboutou down to 7th at best.Garnbret put in a good showing there. Will probably helps settle any nerves she had with her best two rounds to go. Will be interesting with the Japanese athletes both ahead of her. Gutted for Raboutou, Hopefully it won't affect her like it seemed to get in Duffy's head as she's worth a medal imho.
My goodness me Garnbret v Raboutou was tight! I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting. Important result for Garnbret. She may well need that 5th place, but importantly also knocks Raboutou down to 7th at best.
I've no idea how good the Japanese are at lead, anyone know?
Looked like someone was up a ladder on B3 in the intermission. Obviously needed to make it harder to really stick it to those daft speed climbers.
From UKC:Quote OK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!" I was saying yesterday that I thought it was odd that no one went again with the RH. Seemed like it wasn’t that much further and then you could do a big move out the the final volume. I’ll take the top for it.
OK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!"
Quote from: James Malloch on August 06, 2021, 09:29:50 amFrom UKC:Quote OK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!" I was saying yesterday that I thought it was odd that no one went again with the RH. Seemed like it wasn’t that much further and then you could do a big move out the the final volume. I’ll take the top for it.It would be pretty cool if they showed a video (just to the viewers) of someone climbing each problem how they were intended to be done, before the first climber came out to try it. It would help highlight all the weird and wonderful solutions that the climbers come up with and it could add some excitement as you watch the climber slowly work towards (or away from) the correct beta.
Yeah this ^. Was thinking the same yesterday. Would be a simple way to give general viewers a greater understanding. Not sure if the beta would then get relayed to the climbers by members of audience?
Commentator quote of the day:"It's visually appealing, especially to the eye"Edit: ha Pete beat me to it
So a speed specialist is currently ahead of Miho and Jessie after the 1st boulder.
Makes you wonder though. It would be really easy to have a code known to the competitor and the coach which can guide the climbers towards or away from a duff sequence. It looks like this palm-down method is the way that it was intended to be done (looking at all the route setter chalk on the top of the lower yellow volume), but we've seen that it's much easier to do it as a rock over.Even if it were as simple as "Go on" means you're warm and "come on" means you need to do something different.
Even if it were as simple as "Go on" means you're warm and "come on" means you need to do something different.
Quote from: GraemeA on August 06, 2021, 11:03:03 amSo a speed specialist is currently ahead of Miho and Jessie after the 1st boulder.I have to say I am surprised. Miroslaw actually managed to achieve the starting position on problem 1 a few times. Remarkable.