UKBouldering.com

Tokyo Olympics Sport Climbing schedule (Read 55965 times)

GraemeA

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1877
  • Karma: +80/-6
  • FTM
    • The Works, it's the Bollocks
Graeme, ever noticed this kind of thing on the circuit?

No comment  ;)

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3398
  • Karma: +523/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
I’d pay good money to see a combined-discipline face off between Will and Fiend and the speed specialists they keep calling punters.  :popcorn:

Has anyone else on here ever attempted to do the speed route in less than a minute? It’s fucking nails!
« Last Edit: August 06, 2021, 11:27:32 am by cheque »

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
Showing how to do the boulder before hand is then likely to make the Olympians look bad when they can't do it as well? Yes we know how important beta and number of attempts are but I think the perception would remain for the general public.

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 550
  • Karma: +29/-0
Yep I think you're completely right. Suddenly everyone will be wondering why Percy didn't qualify!

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5792
  • Karma: +624/-36
I’d pay good money to see a combined-discipline face off between Will and Fiend and the speed specialists they keep calling punters.  :popcorn:

Has anyone else on here ever attempted to do the speed route in less than a minute? It’s fucking nails!

I think the standard speed route when climbed statically is actually good training for the style of climbing at Gogarth. Awkward blobby pinches. Doing lots of slow laps on it is quite good for main wall fitness. Fiend should get on it.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8018
  • Karma: +635/-116
    • Unknown Stones
Setters currently shitting it?
Gutting to see Raboutou so agonisingly close.

I’d pay good money to see a combined-discipline face off between Will and Fiend and the speed specialists they keep calling punters.  :popcorn:

I'll save you the money and give you the result. Any of the speed people would destroy us. That doesn't make them Olympic standard climbers (this depends whether you agree that being good at speed hasn't the slightest thing to do with being a good climber)

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 550
  • Karma: +29/-0
Oh Brooke :( heartbreaking again.

Would be super happy to see her as the person to somehow shoot up the rankings after a fall by someone else on the lead wall

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1448
  • Karma: +104/-10
Janja is just so dominant. Another level. I feel like the men's was a bit more exciting because there was less of a clear and obvious just top end individual, the women's is like a comp for silver almost.

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 550
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
Run dmc "it's tricky"


Genius

IanP

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 709
  • Karma: +34/-0
Janja is just so dominant. Another level. I feel like the men's was a bit more exciting because there was less of a clear and obvious just top end individual, the women's is like a comp for silver almost.

True in the competition sense, but there is something about watching someone who is at a truly incredible level.

And how hard is it for the setters - basically problems which are too hard for everyone else and she is crushing them .

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1448
  • Karma: +104/-10
They probably should have made these problems a little easier tbh but yes it is very tough

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2846
  • Karma: +160/-4
Nobody has topped anything except Janja yet. Its an absolute nightmare job trying to set for this field. Maybe we need some kind of handicap system like golf, Janja should have to do the probs with a weight vest or something  :lol:

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3398
  • Karma: +523/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
I think the standard speed route when climbed statically is actually good training for the style of climbing at Gogarth. Awkward blobby pinches. Doing lots of slow laps on it is quite good for main wall fitness.

I used to warm up on it when I was climbing on autobelays loads a few winters ago, partly because it was always unoccupied and partly because it made me climb gradually more dynamically over a few successive goes. Unless you’re quite tall it’s very tough to climb statically so it’s good for that.

I’d pay good money to see a combined-discipline face off between Will and Fiend and the speed specialists they keep calling punters.  :popcorn:

I'll save you the money and give you the result. Any of the speed people would destroy us.

I’m not in doubt if what the result would be, I just want to see it.  ;)
« Last Edit: August 06, 2021, 12:09:13 pm by cheque »

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
I think the difficulty is perfect if only 1 person is getting up them. Making it a bit easier could see someone else getting joint 1st with Janja despite not being as good.

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 550
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
Anybody else imagining the Wideboys commentating on B3

IanP

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 709
  • Karma: +34/-0
On the commentary front, just been talking to daughter on whatsapp and when I typed 'shit' predictive text suggested 'commentary'  :lol:

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 550
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2117
  • Karma: +85/-1
Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?

Slip on B1 no?

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2117
  • Karma: +85/-1

Super chuffed for Brooke. She deserved second.

Setting wise, I think it's spot on. Brooke pretty much topped two.

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 550
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?

Slip on B1 no?

Thought it was there on the speed, thought it may have been in quals

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2117
  • Karma: +85/-1
Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?

Slip on B1 no?

Thought it was there on the speed, thought it may have been in quals

I take it back. Just checked and you are right. No idea!

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29300
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Anybody else imagining the Wideboys commentating on B3

Thought that, looked like a baggy lock or two in there.

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2809
  • Karma: +135/-3
Still pretty wide open going into the Lead. Obviously Janja the favourite but she needs to win to guarantee it. Both Raboutou and Nonaka can still win it if they come first in the lead, although Brooke would need Janja to come 3rd. Nonaka will win if she comes first in lead.

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 550
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
Dj has definitely been a highlight for me.
Que sera sera..

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8001
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
the speed punts will be on the bus (hopefully the same bus, tragically falling off a cliff, killing all inside)
FFS. Pure comedy eh?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal