[galpinos]

Someone needs to tell them they were getting Tomoa Narasaki’s name wrong (back to front) before the final…

They aren't. The OBS have told them to refer to them surname first, as they would do in Japan.

[fatneck]

STATIQUE!!!

[fatneck]

Garnbret so impressive...

[spidermonkey09]

UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed

This is such a joke.

I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.

Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.

Exactly. The draw has been made and you don't redo the whole draw when someone pulls out at Wimbledon, whether they are injured before the tournament starts or halfway through. It's just luck, which is a key element of all competitive sport.

Apart from having a bit more rest, a bye in Wimbledon becomes pretty much irrelevant once the next match starts. Not really the case here though is it? Especially with Ondra’s speed pedigree.

Isn’t this in a different league of jamminess compared to byes in other sports?

It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.

[andy popp]

It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.

And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.

[fatneck]

Great show from Shauna.
Great W4 flash from Akiyo.
Janja on another level!

All to fight for on the lead wall....

[GraemeA]

It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.

And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.

He was 8th which is why he has an easy run, if he was 7th he'd be up against Tomoa.

[Ru]

It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.

And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.

Agreed. It sucks, but injuries are part of the sport just as much as the other elements. If Bassa had been injured by something unconnected with his climbing, then it would seem a lot more unfair for Ondra to benefit from that, than the current situation.

Anyway, happy for Shauna after a great bouldering round. The Garnbret nonchalance has also obviously survived any olympic nerves.

[remus]

It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.

And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.

Agreed. It sucks, but injuries are part of the sport just as much as the other elements. If Bassa had been injured by something unconnected with his climbing, then it would seem a lot more unfair for Ondra to benefit from that, than the current situation.

I don't think anyone is worried about Ondra benefiting per se, it's the magnitude of the benefit that seems off.

If the favourite had to pull out of the 100m final in the olympics it's understandable that the least favourite would be then be likely to get at least 7th. If the least favourite was then guaranteed at least 4th I think that'd be pretty unfair.

Personally I think it comes down to the head to head format of speed in the final being a poor choice as there's too much luck involved. The qualifying format seems fairer imo.

[andy popp]

It's jammy as fuck, no question. But the rules are pretty standard, and there is no scenario which is actually satisfying.

And it's not as if Ondra contrived to be 7th so that he'd get the bye (or for Megos to be in 9th and lose out). It is what is.

He was 8th which is why he has an easy run, if he was 7th he'd be up against Tomoa.

Sorry, yes, that's I meant to say. Probably momentarily confused (easily done) by the fact there are now only seven finalists.

[Will Hunt]

Isn't it obvious? Ondra is the Chosen One and this is a gift from above. Romans 8:28. "And we know that in all things God works for the good of those who love him, who have been called according to his purpose."

Megos should turn up anyway and the crowd should start chanting "LET HIM CLIMB, LET HIM CLIMB". If films have taught me anything he'd take gold.

[Nigel]

Personally I think it comes down to the head to head format of speed in the final being a poor choice as there's too much luck involved. The qualifying format seems fairer imo.

Its a totally bizarre sitch, but maybe this will be the positive outcome i.e. it really highlights how whack having head-to-head is. Obvs we knew that already, but having to implement this weird state of affairs might actually sway some of those who made the decision that perhaps its a strange system.

[Hoseyb]

Slightly giggling that even in the Olympics they couldn't get the finishing hold to fit, and had to pop on some screw ons to cover the overlap

[galpinos]

Its a totally bizarre sitch, but maybe this will be the positive outcome i.e. it really highlights how whack having head-to-head is. Obvs we knew that already, but having to implement this weird state of affairs might actually sway some of those who made the decision that perhaps its a strange system.

This is the only time this format will feature in the Olympics.

[MischaHY]

I'm just entertained that a short segment of the Transformers score keeps sporadically playing. 52s to 70s, broadly speaking:

[GraemeA]

This is the only time this format will feature in the Olympics.

The format for the speed final  is the same as Speed World Cups and hasn't changed in 30+ years, ie the seeding has always been as it is now. It is just that the top qualifier has neverpulled out before the start of the finals.

Paris 2024 will almost certainly have the same format as a normal Speed World Cup.

(NB the Combined Speed Finals are slightly different to a Speed World Cup but only in that they have run offs to determine 5th/6th/7th/8th unlike World Cups where these rankings are determined by the qualification time. This is to ensure that all athletes in the finals have 3 races).

[galpinos]

Graeme, I meant the combined format. When speed is split off in Paris we will all go back to not caring about speed again so normal service can be resumed!

(I actually like the head to head nature of the speed but this particular scenario seems to disproportionately benefit one athlete which seems a shame)

[RobK]

I'm just entertained that a short segment of the Transformers score keeps sporadically playing. 52s to 70s, broadly speaking:

The music is one of the best things about this comp for me. It's all over the place. And the often nation themed tunes for the lead highlights are ... interesting.

[fatneck]

Gutted...

[dr_botnik]

Someone should have warned me I'd need some pen and paper and a calculator to write down which hold everyone gets to and what their ranking is from the previous rounds as they never seem to show both. Guess the commentators worked it out for us. Still, next time add a multiplier for the number of Instagram posts they made divided by how many pieces of tape they have on their bodies just to make it even more accessible to nerds?

[205Chris]

Someone should have warned me I'd need some pen and paper and a calculator to write down which hold everyone gets to and what their ranking is from the previous rounds as they never seem to show both. Guess the commentators worked it out for us. Still, next time add a multiplier for the number of Instagram posts they made divided by how many pieces of tape they have on their bodies just to make it even more accessible to nerds?

You can see the ranking from all rounds on the IFSC website: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/olympic-games

[GraemeA]

https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/en/results/sport-climbing/reports.htm gives you every bit of info that any nerd could desire. It even shows the reaction times and split times (black holds) for speed

[cheque]

I've been an idiot. I hadn't thought of this as a two-step gig before. Only the 8 best ranked will progress, so the speed punts will be on the bus (hopefully the same bus, tragically falling off a cliff, killing all inside) long before the final. Phew.

Miroslaw appears to have qualified by winning the speed bit but not getting a single point in bouldering and literally saying whatever’s Polish for “Nah, I’ve fucked it, take us here” quite low on the lead route.  I guess that’s a result caused by the lead route being too hard to differentiate between them enough

I like speed myself. Fair play to the lass.

[Coops_13]

I've been using a vpn to watch it on the Canadian Broadcasting site and had awful male commentators yesterday but the female commentators today (both Canadian) were actually alright. Just a shame on the schedule so I only watch the lead (0610 start)

[Wellsy]

Gutted that Shauna didn't qualify but realistically I think that she can say that as a boulderer she got 4th place in the bouldering leg of the qualifiers and that's respectable, which it is.