Routes cleaned or re-equipped

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

I cleaned up Untoward at Black Rocks a few weeks back.
Took a couple of sessions as it was so minging. Very good compression style boulder problem above bomber gear.
Go get it.
 
Good work. Good route isn't it. I did it in 2011 (also took a bit of cleaning back then). Which side of the arete did you finish up? I ended up on the rhs at the top.
 
Great route. I also headed up and right by turning the arete. Seemed the easiest way although dropping it on that last move would be a big grim lob. It looks like another party ticked it on ukc and they may have headed up and left judging by the extra cleaning and chalk.
 
Louis Wilder on Upper Wrysagn got a good brush yesterday. Deserves attention, is brilliant with the lower hard bit well protected, the upper bit is a bit more wiggy but not as hard; the perfect balance. Absolutely super classic. Cuchulainn was also brushed but not climbed (needs some 5/6mm cord to replace thread) and Wall of Ghouls was climbed but not brushed. Genuine quality routes up there.
 
Dharma. Clean and probably as dry as it’s ever gonna get though it could be a bit hot next wk. Getting this route in condition is a bit of a mystery as despite so little rain the crag was quite damp on Tuesday evening (humidity levels for Whatstandwell were in the low 60s and it was overcast). Yesterday they were in the upper 50s and it was much brighter.

Apart from the crux crimp which would be tricky to hold if it was really hot the rest probably goes even on a warm day.

For future reference realistically it needs cleaned and then left to dry out before returning…

Personally I think it’s worth the effort - classic esoterica.
 
Apparently Upping The Ante is almost in nick nearby as well. Surely one of the best quarried grit E5's in Derbyshire?
 
T_B said:
Getting this route in condition is a bit of a mystery as despite so little rain the crag was quite damp on Tuesday evening (humidity levels for Whatstandwell were in the low 60s and it was overcast). Yesterday they were in the upper 50s and it was much brighter.

It’s like a little rainforest in there with its own microclimate. I doubt the temperature rise is going to help it unfortunately. It’s an awesome place though, looks to have so many routes that would be great if they were in condition.
 
Get Rich Quick is fantastic and safe. I expect it'll need a reclean by now though. Everything on that wall is worth cleaning up I reckon.
 
I took garden shears to Two Tier main wall on the right side today. Cut back all the nettles from Inbetweeners to the right hand end. Also cleaned up the right most route, Tip Dollar 6a+.
The route needs a belay, which I’d be happy to equip if someone doesn’t mind lending me a drill.
I’d be happy to rebolt the routes to the left as well, Tippers & What a Waste.
 
Aussiegav said:
I took garden shears to Two Tier main wall on the right side today. Cut back all the nettles….

Nice one Gav, though a bit of ‘nettle beta’ will hopefully be useful:-

Shears probably isn’t the answer, though for a particularly tall crop, shearing them to a foot above the ground might be a useful start point.

Nettles do pull out of the ground fairly readily, if you grasp the stem near its base. They won’t break off like many plants, and a length of root will come out with the stem.

Obviously you do need leather gloves for this - I always have a pair in my sac for belaying - but this approach will last much longer than shearing.

I pulled all the nettles out around the adit entrance at Smalldale last week, and you couldn’t tell there’d been any nettles there when I went back yesterday. I’ll try to do some other sections at the base of that wall in the coming days (if I find myself back there). I wish others would do the same, but the lack of summer veg clearance undertaken by the younger generation seems sadly pitiful to me. I carry a host of cleaning kit in my sac in the summer, including secateurs and a saw. And I use them….

Last one on nettles: sadly, whilst my approach will give you a decent result for a season, it isn’t the final solution. If you’ve ever attempted to dig out a patch of nettles, you’ll know that the root system - which is bright yellow - is really extensive. Round up, anyone… :eek:
 
Neil F said:
…the lack of summer veg clearance undertaken by the younger generation seems sadly pitiful to me.

Crag cleaning shots do nothing for the Insta profile. Blame the algorithm ;)
 
Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.
 
Tony S said:
Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.

I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.
 
Tony S said:
Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.

General Incompetence was the long term project of Dave Lee, aka Chesters (he came from Chesterfield), aka ‘The General’. Chesters was a brilliant climber and a good mate of mine. I remember watching him trying the line one day - I might even have a photo buried somewhere gathering dust - and it was really impressive seeing Dave pulling some really challenging moves with the gear well below his feet…

After Chesters moved away and Dougie did the FA, Chris Gore suggested General Dismissal as a potential name, and I suggested General Incompetence. I seem to remember some (Gore?) thought my suggestion was a bit disrespectful, but it was actually a gentle micky take of a good friend and much respected climber. Chesters thought it was funny and certainly wasn’t offended by it.

Bit of 80s Cheedale history for you there… :)
 
remus said:
I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.

Crossed posts there, Remus. I’m afraid you’re wrong…
 
Neil F said:
remus said:
I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.

Crossed posts there, Remus. I’m afraid you’re wrong…

Indeed. We’ve been here before:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649612.html#msg649612
 


Write your reply...

Latest posts

Back
Top