Power Club 760 1 - 7 July 2024

[duncan]

M - Pembroke with Hugo. Off to Chance Encounter Zawn, a new cliff for me, in search of The Soup Dragon (E2). The eerie groaning sounds emanating from the back of the cave made it very easy to imagine Fafnir, or his descendant Smaug, lurking ready to eat unwary climbers. Unfortunately once we had abseiled in it was clearly too wet. It’s not a route that is ever going to be bone dry but this was dripping. Looks amazing and I hope to return. We retreated via the steep and entertaining Googe St. (HVS). Next, we checked out Gun Cliff, also new, and Dragon Slayer (E1), a Heart of Darkness style traverse. I got about 30' along this before retreating due to more wet. Prospective Beowulfs or Siegfrieds would be wise to note the photo on p88 of the definitive guide, as descriptions miss an important detail. Escaped up the microwave jenga (VS 4a) of the abseil line. Team psyche was a bit low after three good days so we beat a retreat and had a semi-rest day.

T - Back to Mowing Word. Warmed-up on Mental Block (E1) and Independence Dave (E1) then did the good but brittle Onion Eaters (E3) over on the beach area. Led Maininwhite (E2), finally starting to feel like I was moving a bit more smoothly and confidently again.

W - Rained in the morning thankfully so we could have a lie-in. Mowing Word in the afternoon. Warmed up on Logos (E1 but not really) and Hugo led Steep Pace. This is bizarrely E5 6b in RockFax (has the rock changed?) and more reasonably E4 5c in the CC guides. We both thought E3; about Fr6a to top-rope. There is small but good gear at the start of the arete, then 4-5 unlikely but straightforward moves to a good thread where it’s all over. Good climbing and great positions especially with a big sea running which it was! Hugo then led Olive Branch (E4), a much sterner proposition. This looked very finger-tweaky so I declined to follow. I was belaying on the ledge at the start of Charenton Crack proper due to the high seas but neither of us fancied this so Hugo led us up Steep Pace for the second time of the day. Still felt easy. I really should have led this myself but was feeling mentally and physically a bit worn by this stage of the trip.

T - Penally Scoop Wall for the entertaining Magic Flute (E1). Fortunately the tide was coming in fast so we could call it a day without needing to do another route. Drove back to London.

F - Tired! Shoulder/elbow conditioning: handstands, side planks, press-ups.

S - Fingerboard hangs for the first time since March. Finger (and elbow) feeling a lot better and surprisingly strong as I was able to crimp the 15mm edge.

S - 400m / 20 mins swim in the murk. Shoulders conditioning.

Pembroke was great. Felt quite knackered after 7 days ‘on’ even if they were not the fullest days. Was good to explore some new areas, very keen to return to Gun Cliff and Chance Encounter, though not as keen as for Stackpole when it opens in 3 weeks.

Finger isn't 100% but easy trad. did its usual healing. The pick-ups I’ve managed to do over the last 3 months seem to have had a transferable effect to hangs. I was trying to avoid tweaky finger jamming or pockets and use more basic holds, often smaller, and also noticed I was feeling stronger on these than I was expecting. Possibly could have tried harder routes but didn't want to risk finger and my trad. head still needs some nurturing. I’ve led 23 trad. routes in the last couple of months; in the 90s I used to think it took 50 to feel in the groove so I've some work to do.

Will be down in Weston from tomorrow as mum has a health issue and someone needs to help her with life for a few days. Hopefully meeting up with shark tomorrow. Get in touch if you’re free this week and can get to N Somerset.

 

[Fultonius]

Woke up Monday feeling a bit mildly under the weather....

Tuesday similar. Still worked and felt energetic enough, so went to the wall. OK session, kept to myself as don't like to risk spreading stuff..... One of the guys who works there mentioned he'd had covid a few weeks back and that "everyone was getting it".

Weds: work up with funny taste in my mouth.... Tickly cough..... Rummaged around for an out of date test at the back of the cupboard. Mild double line. Damn!

Thurs: Nowt, recovery
Friday worked remotely, 80%.
Saturday: felt super queasy all day, struggling for appetite on the Keto diet and no palatable options. Finally managed got start to feel a bit better in the PM. Watched football (rarity for me).
Sunday: pretty much normal. Woodwork (making dining table) and a 2 hr session at TCA. Must be a combination of having lost 2.5kg on this keto thing, plus post covid bounce back but I felt pretty good at the wall - managed a white 7A+ in a few goes, flashed a few 6Cs and got close on some other 7As.

Down to 79.6kg from about 82kg - I had hit 83kg at one point, but think was more like 82kg when I started this out 3 weeks ago. Aiming for 77kg, and keto certainly seems to maintain energy levels while being in a decent caloric deficit (which is the struggle I have had in the past when trying to cut any fat, is that my mood and energy levels just dorp with intake...).

I'm off to London this weekend for a gig, and eating out/socialising so I think I'll end the keto phase on Friday and see where I end up. Might do another month in the Autumn or Winter.

 

[oldfella]

Monday -
Fingerboard at home
18mm edges
Finger strength assessment half crimp
Total weight 100.4kg. Same as last assessment on 20 May.

Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday
Rest day

Thursday
Fingerboard session at home
Six 10s hangs @ 87.3kg
Five 7s hangs on 12mm edges at 79.3kg

Friday
Rest

Saturday

Facebook hook up with FaffmasterG for an afternoon at Peter Dale

Dyslexia Rules KO. 6a
Nissed As a Newt. 6b
Bad Spellers of the World Untie 7a. 4 tie ins, managed to Redpoint on 4 tie in. Really pleased to get this done. Took more tries than expected. Ripped a flapper in the process.

Had another play on Mark20’s Kraken In Arm. Hampered by tender skin. Sharpish holds. Still can’t work out how to use that poor left side pull to get to the right hand crimp near the 3rd bolt. Does seem tough move for a 6c… maybe it’s a body position thing….


Sunday
Strength training at Virgin Gym.

 

[Duma]

Sounds like a great week in Pembroke Duncan! I'm free Tuesday but the forecast is looking pretty ropey at the moment tbh...

M - 12 hr shift.
T - 12 hr shift.
W - lunch, TCA, 120 min. Humid and upstairs shut for a couple of weeks for renovations. Whites, blacks, blues, mostly slight overhang. 11 problems, did 7, flashed 3, 1 second go, 2 quick, one took a while. All moves on 2 others but not sure how close to linking. Of the other 2, 1 seemed like campus moves that are too hard for me, and the other I didn't try but looks nails. Lower back a bit uncomfortable, not sure why.
T - lots of walking to try and help ease my back, did help, but only temporarily. Lunch, TCA, 90 min, back on things from yesterday. Lots of downclimbing as nervous about back, but it seemed to tolerate it fine. Managed the campus one that I thought was too hard yesterday, another that I'd missed last week, but neither of the 2 that I did the moves on yesterday. Did do better links on one of them though.
F - back seemed a bit better when I woke, but gradually stiffened up through the day, probably because I spent most of it on the sofa.
S - 12 hr shift. Back not amazing but not worse.
S - 12 hr shift. Lots of standing up at the desk which seemed to help a bit. Eve, run, hilly, trail, 6k, 33 min. Back seems ok with it

72 kg.

Not a very active week, and concerned about my back. Lost some of the weight from last week at least.

 

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Trad if suitable - yes but bumbling. Sport otherwise - no but was planned, weather crapped out. Indoor training while it rains - yes and one session seemed useful. Keep moaning about being shit - not as much as I should.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - not really. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - touched base with a couple of people. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - one small jump outside. Look after injuries - no, shoulders fatigued and golfer's elbow flare up, (gym x 1), (elbow rehab x 2), shoulder rehab x 3 - yes, stretching x 3 - x 2 and need to do more.


M - Stamina circuits @ Depot. Red (F6b+) into Yellow reverse (F6a+), Yellow into Red reverse, Blue (F6c+) into 80% of Blue reverse (F7a), Blue reverse into 20% of Blue, Purple reverse (F7b), 60% of Purple (F7a+/b), 80% of Blue reverse into 120% of Red reverse, 70% of Blue. Tired by the end. Slightly better than last time. Full stretching session scattered during rest periods. Shoulder a bit sore after but slightly better than last time.

T - Active rest. Photoshoot @ Troy Quarry. E1, E2. Pleasant. DOMS from stamina circuits which was satisfying. Shoulder a bit sore afterwards but it was bloody cold in the evening. Shoulder rehab.

W - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 6 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5 (5 flash), 5 x V4-6 (4 flash, 1 3rd go, plus attempted 3 more), 3 x V5-7 (all 3rd go, plus attempted 5 more, one of which would be physically possible). Grades back to almost normal after the Great Softening of early 2024. Hard for me, but decent fun. Shoulder sore as I tweaked it on a gaston press across a groove, but okay otherwise. Lots of LingLing cuddles / rump scratches after an initially aloof start.

T - Recovery sabotage. 1.5 hours cleaning / excavating. Was supposed to be a mini-photoshoot but there wasn't the right people there. Shoulders and upper back very tired after. Previously: Shoulder okay in morning. Upper back stiff from wall. Shoulder rehab. Full stretching session.

F - Rest. 1 hour walk.

S - A bit of light spad climbing @ Honley Quarry. 2 x E3 5c (beta-flash), 1 x E3 6a (first ascent after practise). Both shoulders quite sore after some tree-cutting, RH golfer's elbow flared up a bit after steep climbing.

S - Rest. Shoulders a bit less tired. Shoulder rehab.


Hmmmm. Okay week. Some mistakes with cleaning when fatigued. A bit of decent trad. Don't think I got any worse at climbing overall.


Next week STG: Trad - and push a tiny bit harder. Sport - and do some more falls.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

 

[Wellsy]

Monday - Rested

Tuesday - Light indoor session just getting volume in

Wednesday - Big session, lots of effort. Tried the hardest circuit at the Works, didn't do any problems but did some moves. Training: Weighted Pullups, Rows, Lock Offs. Did some Pressing and chest work

Thursday - Rested

Friday - Short Session just getting some time in trying to finish off Yellows at the Works.

Saturday - Fingerboarded for the first time in a while as left ring finger finally pain free. Got to 40kgs for 7 seconds, felt tough but no pain and I think just a bit of a lack of try hard tbh. Reckon 40+ for 10 is still in me when not Fingerboarding regularly which is good. Some more Yellows

Sunday - Trowbarrow. Did some stuff on Red Wall up to 6C. Tried Pit Problem for a while, very enjoyable session, will definitely back with less tired and mushed fingers!

Good week overall, little bit low in beans but glad to be pain free in finger. Slightly heavy at the moment so will try to drop a kilo or two in the next few weeks I think.

 

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. Evening board session - struggled to motivate myself and sat on the mats for a while doom scrolling, before kicked into action and actually had a great one. Not feeling 'floaty' yet but getting more so!
W. Woke up with a stiff neck, didn't think much of it.
T. Evening board session - another good one, though struggling for friction slightly. Feeling slightly better on a few gaston type moves which are a huge weakness at the moment.
F.
S. Took the lad swimming in the morning - neck still bad.
S. Neck getting worse - WTF.

 

[monkoffunk]

M - Family trip to Project. Mostly spotting daughter on the slide, but managed quick play on the board. Did a 7A that I’d failed before, so maybe progress, shut down on a harder 6B, standard. Yoga evening.

T - Gym. Deadlifts, weighted pull ups, incline press mainly. Yoga evening.

W - Happened to be in Portsmouth for work, so squeezed in a brief board session in Red Spider on the way home. Unsurprisingly rusty on that board, probably was last on it in 2019. Humidity high. Once I might have been disappointed by performance, now see it as bonus training with no implication for future performance. #growth.

T - Election day was pretty busy.

F - Recovering from election day

S - Spent day with friends, didn’t squeeze anything in

S - Evening finger session. Sub max hangs two sets. Brief stretch evening.

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - 531 week 13. Training max 144 kg. Bentover rows, high pulls.
Wed - Doms d'oh. Goblet squat, glutes, bar work, abs, triceps.
Thu - AM as usual; PM weights. Mind elsewhere.
Fri - weights, loaded carries.
Sat - tired, light weights.
Sun - shoulder static holds, finished with not a single second to spare. I don't know how I managed it.

 

[csl]

Sounds like a good week with lots off the beaten track Duncan.

July goals: Got a trip to N Wales planned for end of July and I'd like to be in the right headspace for something like Right Wall.
- Stick with the training, including lots of aerocap/arc
- Stop being lazy on weekends, its not hard to get the yoga mat out and do some stretching after childs bedtime/during naps
- 1x day out before Wales - hopefully High Tor, some questy wall climbing is what I need I think.
- Wales at end of month, do something off the lifetime list.


My hope was to visit High Tor this week but the weather didn't play ball.

Mon: Wall. 3x repeats on medium/hard boulders, then round a circuit of 6C-7A managed a fair few. 1 on 1 off 20 mins.
Tue-Sat: Intense work week, the sort of thing which has you buying lottery tickets/updating your LinkedIn profile
Sun: I couldn't be arsed but ended up doing "ARC" with a squeezy ring watching TV which got me inspired enough to do some max pickups, shoulder stuff with dumbbells etc

This week: Ideally a couple of wall sessions, try and get some exercise done most days no matter how hardcore work gets.

 

[SA Chris]

M - evening run while son at athletics. Mate bailed so on a whim decided to run up Cheyne Hill and then into Fetteresso and up Swanley Hill (15 km, 217m vert). Actually felt OK and enjoyed it, which sowed a seed....
T - pick ups in evening.
W - marginal call but hike with scouts, weather stayed dry. After hum and ha, and look at weather, last minute entry Stonehaven Half Marathon for Sunday.
T- each 7 km lunch run. Kettlebells evening.
F - not much, Last day of primary for daughter.
S - climbing wall - did a couple of routes on autobelay and lead. and bouldered a bit.
S - Stonehaven Half. Weather warmer than expected, and more hills in the forest than I remember, but managed 1:43:25, 10 minutes off 2018 time (but it was in mid to high 20s that time). Might find another flatter one to do later in the year (this one has nearly 300m of elevation) and put in a decent block of training.

 

[spidermonkey09]

July goals: Got a trip to N Wales planned for end of July and I'd like to be in the right headspace for something like Right Wall.

Sure you've got all the info on RW you want but best way to think of it imo is as three E3 5cs on top of each other with hands off rests in between. The middle one is comfortably the hardest/boldest but its not *that* bold unless you climb past some gear. Imagine you'll rinse it if you're remotely fit!

 

[csl]

July goals: Got a trip to N Wales planned for end of July and I'd like to be in the right headspace for something like Right Wall.

Sure you've got all the info on RW you want but best way to think of it imo is as three E3 5cs on top of each other with hands off rests in between. The middle one is comfortably the hardest/boldest but its not *that* bold unless you climb past some gear. Imagine you'll rinse it if you're remotely fit!

Thank you, I'll try and take it ledge by ledge if the weather plays ball. Not sure how fit I am currently but I've got the (unavoidable?) gear beta about which unexpected cams you need - and perhaps more importantly I'm realising that there is no point putting this stuff off.

 

[spidermonkey09]

100% just get on it. I was absolutely terminally boxed when I made it to the girdle ledge and just hung out there for 10 mins until I felt OK again. Top bit was fine, especially after a long rest.