Routes cleaned or re-equipped

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DAVETHOMAS90 said:
I didn't like the music! In fact, I nearly switched the video off.
Such brilliant nothingness is what I thought you'd have without the music.

I tend to agree if the recording doesn't get ruined by the wind. This was more of an aside to kindred listener.
 
More mid range punterizing at Rivelin again. Can’t get enough of the place this route I thought was a bit weird. Clinker - make a move on a pebble in the scoop then reach the right arête? Anyway gave it a dust / de scrittle on Ab, then did it this way. Has anyone else tried once you start rocking over you can’t move to the e1on the left. Quite a good move but couldn’t see any pebbles further right. Some very thin slopey nothings but I did have 3 split tips so hard to tell. Strangely bad conditions despite the temps

https://youtu.be/FIyncW77U18
 
Anglezarke is the bees knees, wot a place. Popped there today for a mooch and found this line on Grey wall -I think it was Age of Reason but can’t be sure as wasn’t in the guide we had. Dare I mention them. Anyway cool moves and prob around e5 6b depending on how much you trust the rock quality and corroded peg.

https://youtu.be/iSyT8bEZrAg
 
Ps gotta love the new YouTube vibe. Goodbye 4K anamorphic, hello 320p lofi - ness
 
Eavestone stuff at about E3:
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29883.msg579220.html#msg579220
 
Nina Caprez has partially rebolted Mingus in Verdon (8a) and replaced all belays on it. She also checked the status of the pitons.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/verdon-nina-caprez-reequipe-mingus-300m-8a-verdon-mingus-300m-8a-rebolted-by-nina-caprez/

So now you can follow in Lynn Hill's footstep and casually onsight this route knowing that you don't have to clip rusty caving bolts from the late 80s, at least not on any of the hard parts ;)
 
Nice one Ted, how does this rate on the Peak 8a+ scale? (i.e. is it actually 8b?). Been interested in this ever since I belayed Joble on it, though he made it look hard and I put it in the 'till I'm a mutant...' list.
 
Cheers Guy I thought it was about the same as the other 8a+s down at 2 Tier like Gonads and Ultralight. This was after my mate discovered a much easier way of doing the crux using your RH in a 2 finger gaston pocket to reach the crux sidepull by the 3rd bolt. I was pinching this hold with my thumb in that pocket before, which was much harder. I understand James was also trying it this way as he couldn't otherwise use the pocket (possibly as your fingers need to be quite thin) which is maybe why he commented that it was about the same grade as Kali Yuga. Its been 10 yrs since I did Kali but am inclined to think it is a tougher proposition than Flow.
 
Kingy said:
Cheers Guy I thought it was about the same as the other 8a+s down at 2 Tier like Gonads and Ultralight. This was after my mate discovered a much easier way of doing the crux using your RH in a 2 finger gaston pocket to reach the crux sidepull by the 3rd bolt. I was pinching this hold with my thumb in that pocket before, which was much harder. I understand James was also trying it this way as he couldn't otherwise use the pocket (possibly as your fingers need to be quite thin) which is maybe why he commented that it was about the same grade as Kali Yuga. Its been 10 yrs since I did Kali but am inclined to think it is a tougher proposition than Flow.

:thumbsup:
 
Gave Disillusioned Screw Machine at WCJ Cornice a good scrub on Thursday. Someone else had been up it but it was still pretty filthy. Now just filthy hard.

Man could this crag could do with being re-equipped. Given Brachiation Dance is a 3 star 7b+ it’s pretty shocking the state of the bolts and the lower off being one bolt and another bolt with no chain or hanger.
 
T_B said:
Gave Disillusioned Screw Machine at WCJ Cornice a good scrub on Thursday. Someone else had been up it but it was still pretty filthy. Now just filthy hard.

Thanks for that. I have been on that one a few times over the last few weeks and have been intermittently cleaning it. Was pretty grim a few weeks ago! That top crux is hard!
 
Tbh I was shut down on the whole crux section. But then it is about F6b until the 3rd bolt so essentially 8a in 12 feet! From the good hold/edge/undercut at the start of the hard bit are you putting your left heel on the obvious big flatty and reaching up with your left hand to that crimp? I wasn’t using the small pocket/slot out left.
 
T_B said:
Tbh I was shut down on the whole crux section. But then it is about F6b until the 3rd bolt so essentially 8a in 12 feet! From the good hold/edge/undercut at the start of the hard bit are you putting your left heel on the obvious big flatty and reaching up with your left hand to that crimp? I wasn’t using the small pocket/slot out left.

Yes. Exactly as you describe, reach up from low feet to mingling crimp with left hand, put left heel up, flag with right foot and then up with right hand to pinch and then snatch again with right hand to good hold. After that reach up with left hand to grim split crimp thing and put left heel up and right foot up and almost drop knee then snatch Gaston. After that I bring left hand up to pocket and bust up to the jug with left hand.
I think I would have been better leaving this one till later in the season when I was re-adjusted to minging Peak crimps.

Like you say 8a in about 12 feet
 
That makes sense - really helpful. I actually cleaned a small side pull/undercut at the back of the bulge to the right of the good flat glued edge that you’d clip off. Then was busting off that to the Gaston as you describe it as I couldn’t use that mingin slot/crimp. But then I’m gonna have to reach through to the two finger pocket with my right :-\
 
None of my doing but a few things I've noticed being done over the last couple of weeks.

Dragonslayer at Eavestone.
Also a new route to the right of it called Roots Manuva.

Doomed Oasis and Warriors at Guisecliff.
 
Cleaned the grass + ants out of Tin Drum at Curbar this evening. It’s the seam left of Be Bop Delux. Brilliant micro route/solo (gear after the hard bit so no point putting a rope on). Anyway, it’s as good as anything of that genre. Spicy with a couple of pads, would be fun ground up with a team.
 
Hollywood Bowl, Giggleswick North:
Superbowl has now got a new lower-off, some new bolts and a second perma-draw in the roof (Thank you Eduardo). This means you can easily strip the top half without having to pull back under the lip, and then strip the first section to the cave separately (lower-offs in the cave).
The new lower-off is about 1m higher than the original, meaning there's a beefy slap to do after turning the lip, right at the end. Probably 7c/+ now, and a brilliant, improbable route.
Everything else in the bowl is clean and has seen ascents up to Aladdin 8c, except for Whitelock witchery start - this is now normally started up Jorjas Connection at 7b+, or Illywacker at 7c.
 
Not sure when you were in there, John, but the true start of Whitelock is clean and chalked at the moment. Not sure how popular it is though - certainly not the most appealing route in there!
 


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