Hmmm, what else have I seen today.... Hurry on Sundown. Thought 7a was about right for stander when I did it. Sitter seemed desperate (did not investigate cheat stones in crack though) - Andy B did it mostly by climbing sideways toe hooking flatworld I think. Did not sound very 7a+.
I personally reckon early doors is fair at 7a+ dont think it needs downgrading, would say its harder than electrical storm.
I think it must of been really good conditions!Fact Hunt - went here for the first time today, both problems are really good and did them a number of times to complete my alpine circuit.Fact hunt has to be the biggest gift at 7b+ in the world. As for the grade, I was thinking about 7a, but then I realised its quite a bit harder than early doors so top end 7a+/ bottom end 7b 7b I recon cos its quite a powerfull lock.
Famous Grouse. In Ru's guide the stand start only gets 7b+. I think its harder than this, 7c.
Hurry on sundown sitting - 7b (I think the chock stone is cheating)
Nice! Definate opinions on grades, that's what I like to see.
For the list I won't consider changing grades on probs I haven't done unless at least two people who have done said problem suggest change of grade and then it comes down to trying to average out opinions (not always easy). All the suggested changes on the original post where based on this rule.
Quote from: Andy B on April 07, 2008, 11:44:00 amHurry on sundown sitting - 7b (I think the chock stone is cheating)There is no chockstone! Know what you mean though, it feels like cheating, even though doing it any other way is actually an eliminate.
Whilst we're at Baslow, Andy B, you really think Hurry on Sundown standing is two grades easier than Dirty Bitch? Baslow 7a'sLittle Richard (hard)Hurry on Sundown (soft)Dirty Bitch (very soft)
As for that 7a slab, JB told me he's done it straight up the middle, which seems very hard. I've done it up the left with a pop for a good crimp, which felt reasonable for 7a. I've seen it done up the right and moving into the middle, which feels harder. Should be three problems I think (ala Tiny slab at B.north) - at the moment everyone I know who has tried it is confused.
Dirty bitch has some comparitively intense bunched locking on small holds, and I know at least one person who took longer to do this than Fact Hunt.
I and everyone that I know who has done this, started with their right foot on the starting hold of Fat World, and went straight up (maybe slightly left) using a highish poor left foothold that is hard to make stick, and the two gash slopers for hands.
Glove Love? What's that?
Dirty Bitch felt like 6c to me. Everyone in our group flashed it, but I guess there weren't any tall people present.
I ain't done all these 7a problems at Baslow away from Flatworld but I agree with R-man that Elmer Fudd should possibly be listed as 'Left Hand' and 'Right Hand' starts as there is scope for 2 lines on this slab. These lines would not be eliminates as they start a fair way away from each other. I have done the left hand one which I thought rated 7a and tried the right one which was harder IMO.
The difference between 6c and 7a isn't a big one unless this is close to your limit, which is why I think it is very hard to accurately assess grades for problems more than a couple of grades away from your personal limit.
I agree that there are two lines on the slab, but don't reckon the left hand one is 7a.