[Dr T]

Heading peakwards this weekend and fancy another round with Banana Finger direct (this time with some beta care of Rob *fish and his wonderful little youtube library).
If this goes then Banana reverse but the question is where exactly does it go????
seen (and read of) at least two finishes
i) top out as per the original and the direct
ii) reverse the original but to where? - the exact starting holds or continue shuffling right???
I know in the grand scheme of things it really doesn't matter but if I'm gonna do it I wanna get it right you know...

[dave]

the clue is in the name - it reverses the original. probably best finishing by getting to the start of the original and rocking staight up there. or step off.

[Dr T]

cheers...
that's what I thought but the peak bouldering guide isn't clear and I've seen a number of videos going straight up so I thought I'd go for some local knowledge...

[Jaspersharpe]

Hope the weather holds for you as it's absolutely glorious (and freezing) today. The difficult bit is over once you get that good edge anyway.

[Dr T]

metcheck is promising good things...
off to flesh out my tick/wish list now.....
anything else 7a(+) I should attack in burbage north?
considering that all quiet direct shut me down last time but mermaid was dispatched in double quick time....   ???

[lagerstarfish]

The Nose at B West (not far away) is easy 7a and satisfying. If the sun makes North prooblems too warm in the afternoon then head here for some shade and friction.
Eliminates on the arrete/nose left of re-emergance.
Sphinx is scary 7a, (++?) and Safe Bet 6c up the hill is sweet.
Get back on AQ direct in the morning when its ccccold - as long as your fingers are warmed up.

As for BF Rev, the nicest is trav into the direct and then up that. The finger swap and subsequent reverse of the first moves of BF is the same grade, but feels a bit of a faff, so I'd do that as a the second version.

Might see you up there?

[dave]

hows about the nose, the 2 sloper eliminate at remergence, AQD, that sitdown slopey lip thing underneath grogan, small is beautiful, the left arete slap thing near terrace (i.e. the finish to jasons) and also the sitter roof/arete problems at the right end of the same block, the arete left of Striker, i could go on.

[Jaspersharpe]

I was gonna say The Nose before I remembered seeing a video of Dr T doing it.

[Dr T]

sounds good..
did the nose on my last visit.. couldn't get the toe hook so went for the swinging stylee...
tried small is beautiful too but my soft southern skin had taken too much of a battering, and I had bad beta too.. high left foot is apparently the way forward...

[dave]

if you've got a few (more than 2) mats get on Twenty Year Itch near niccotine stain, its well brown.

[Dr T]

if you've got a few mats get on Twenty Year Itch near niccotine stain, its well brown.

yep got a couple of fat bastards... plus a couple of starter pads to fit inside
one of the bastards is mine, the other I got the school climbing club to purchase - being in charge of something does have the odd perk..

[Andy B]

Two more to try are Velvet Crab, and the high lip traverse on remergence.

[Dr T]

Might see you up there?

hope so - we'll definitely be heading for burbage north and west - the wife has her eye on a couple of things
so that'll probably be Sat and Sun sorted then Plantation on Monday morning before I have to get her in charge back for her proper job (my teaching doesn't count I am well aware of that....)

[BenF]

hows about the nose, the 2 sloper eliminate at remergence, AQD, that sitdown slopey lip thing underneath grogan, small is beautiful, the left arete slap thing near terrace (i.e. the finish to jasons) and also the sitter roof/arete problems at the right end of the same block...

Jinx, I was about to post pretty much exactly that.  A good circuit that lot. 

I'd also add that morpho wall/jump thing right of Yabbadabbado (I think) that's in the BMC Burbage guide.  I looks shit if you're tall and can easily do the first moves but being not so tall I really enjoyed struggling like hell to get the crimps in the break and then doing the jump to the ledge.  Probably about 6b if you're tall and 7a-ish if you're not.  I expect to be corrected by people that think it's shit.

[dave]

you mean the eliminate/blinkers thing left of the slopey break pod thing? if you're tall its piss to get to the thin crimp break but i found it hard to get fingers into for the big top move. its going to be nigh on impossible for the short, we saw robin barkwad shut down on it.

[lagerstarfish]

off to flesh out my tick/wish list now.....

It might be worth a short diversion up to Higgar East if you run out of stamina/skin/crimp ability. That curved arete on its right is a nice 7a/7a+ and is only 1 move on rounded skin freindlyish holds with short walk in (no sun in afternoon/eve so usually good friction). Seems to be one of those that people either find ok or impossible - well worth finding which group you are in... Its a really nice problem to have on your "can do" list to finish off sessions with. Landing is safer than it looks.

[Dr T]

hadn't thought about higgar but it's pleasant wander so why not...

for some reason that video seems to have failed though 

works fine from here though....

http://lagerstarfish.googlepages.com/higgareast

[a dense loner]

maybe you could try and repeat r-mans "hardest arete eliminate" on the the remergence block, noted on 8a.nonsense, which incidently is not hard nor the hardest arete eliminate. i wouldn't bother with AQD or small is beautiful, i like these which tells a story, there's plenty more stuff around. the slopey sitter under the grogan has really good moves. if you're into burly probs maybe walk down and have a look at boyager. never tried it myself, went and had a look the other day. looks good, spotting required. i prefer banana reverse finishing up the direct, i don't like the hand swap to go right

[Dr T]

pardon my (obvious) ignorance - am I right in thinking that boyager is what is referred to as Iain's prow in the BMC guide??
twas on winter sessions too if I remember..

[dave]

banana reverse without reversing the original isn't banana reverse, its just adding 3 easy traverse moves into BFD. as i said above, the clue is in the name. i'd prefer powerband-into-PUTP without having to do PUTP, but life's a bitch.

boyager is iaiaiaian's prow ting. you'll need a fair few mats.

[Andy B]

Just been to check out Boyager today. We unfortunately only had an Alp Kit postage stamp with us, and you really need a few decent pads to cover the spikey boulders, but it looks brilliant, really good line and rock. Is Mono Bulge the filthy block beneath boyager?

[dave]

me and jiggaman pulled on buoyager on a hot day with not much in the way of mattage, felt like it'd be fine in reasonable temps with a team. yeah i assume the mono thing is the same thing you're on about.

[Jim]

the moves on the traverse into BF direct aren't as trivial as Dave would suggest, They are excellent moves though.
A good circuit on BF block is

BF
BF direct
traverse from left into BF direct
BF reverse
traverse from left into BF reverse
slopers problem left of BF start
same as above but from start by pinching the lower overlap

then when you get home, pour yourself a nice pint of millstone tiger rut.
Oh wait its just me that can do that  

[lagerstarfish]

slopers problem left of BF start
same as above but from start by pinching the lower overlap

That lower start is quality 

[Andy B]

Another good problem on here is to start on the low starting slot on Banana Finger, move up to the lip and traverse the lip leftwards all the way to finish up the drop down on banana reverse. About 7a+ or maybe a bit harder. Good moves.