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Banana Reverse (Read 11433 times)

Dr T

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Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:19:29 am
Heading peakwards this weekend and fancy another round with Banana Finger direct (this time with some beta care of Rob *fish and his wonderful little youtube library).
If this goes then Banana reverse but the question is where exactly does it go????
seen (and read of) at least two finishes
i) top out as per the original and the direct
ii) reverse the original but to where? - the exact starting holds or continue shuffling right???
I know in the grand scheme of things it really doesn't matter but if I'm gonna do it I wanna get it right you know...

dave

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#1 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:22:04 am
the clue is in the name - it reverses the original. probably best finishing by getting to the start of the original and rocking staight up there. or step off.

Dr T

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#2 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:23:58 am
cheers...
that's what I thought but the peak bouldering guide isn't clear and I've seen a number of videos going straight up so I thought I'd go for some local knowledge...

Jaspersharpe

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#3 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:30:28 am
Hope the weather holds for you as it's absolutely glorious (and freezing) today. The difficult bit is over once you get that good edge anyway.

Dr T

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#4 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:40:57 am
metcheck is promising good things...
off to flesh out my tick/wish list now.....
anything else 7a(+) I should attack in burbage north?
considering that all quiet direct shut me down last time but mermaid was dispatched in double quick time....   ???

lagerstarfish

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#5 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:48:05 am
The Nose at B West (not far away) is easy 7a and satisfying. If the sun makes North prooblems too warm in the afternoon then head here for some shade and friction.
Eliminates on the arrete/nose left of re-emergance.
Sphinx is scary 7a, (++?) and Safe Bet 6c up the hill is sweet.
Get back on AQ direct in the morning when its ccccold - as long as your fingers are warmed up.

As for BF Rev, the nicest is trav into the direct and then up that. The finger swap and subsequent reverse of the first moves of BF is the same grade, but feels a bit of a faff, so I'd do that as a the second version.

Might see you up there?
« Last Edit: December 13, 2007, 11:55:46 am by lagerstarfish »

dave

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#6 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:51:38 am
hows about the nose, the 2 sloper eliminate at remergence, AQD, that sitdown slopey lip thing underneath grogan, small is beautiful, the left arete slap thing near terrace (i.e. the finish to jasons) and also the sitter roof/arete problems at the right end of the same block, the arete left of Striker, i could go on.

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#7 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:52:49 am
I was gonna say The Nose before I remembered seeing a video of Dr T doing it.

Dr T

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#8 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:54:22 am
sounds good..
did the nose on my last visit.. couldn't get the toe hook so went for the swinging stylee...
tried small is beautiful too but my soft southern skin had taken too much of a battering, and I had bad beta too.. high left foot is apparently the way forward...

dave

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#9 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:55:41 am
if you've got a few (more than 2) mats get on Twenty Year Itch near niccotine stain, its well brown.

Dr T

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#10 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 11:57:12 am
if you've got a few mats get on Twenty Year Itch near niccotine stain, its well brown.
yep got a couple of fat bastards... plus a couple of starter pads to fit inside
one of the bastards is mine, the other I got the school climbing club to purchase - being in charge of something does have the odd perk..

Andy B

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#11 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 12:00:15 pm
Two more to try are Velvet Crab, and the high lip traverse on remergence.

Dr T

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#12 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 12:06:50 pm

Might see you up there?


hope so - we'll definitely be heading for burbage north and west - the wife has her eye on a couple of things
so that'll probably be Sat and Sun sorted then Plantation on Monday morning before I have to get her in charge back for her proper job (my teaching doesn't count I am well aware of that....)

BenF

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#13 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 12:45:09 pm
hows about the nose, the 2 sloper eliminate at remergence, AQD, that sitdown slopey lip thing underneath grogan, small is beautiful, the left arete slap thing near terrace (i.e. the finish to jasons) and also the sitter roof/arete problems at the right end of the same block...

Jinx, I was about to post pretty much exactly that.  A good circuit that lot. 

I'd also add that morpho wall/jump thing right of Yabbadabbado (I think) that's in the BMC Burbage guide.  I looks shit if you're tall and can easily do the first moves but being not so tall I really enjoyed struggling like hell to get the crimps in the break and then doing the jump to the ledge.  Probably about 6b if you're tall and 7a-ish if you're not.  I expect to be corrected by people that think it's shit.

dave

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#14 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 12:51:34 pm
you mean the eliminate/blinkers thing left of the slopey break pod thing? if you're tall its piss to get to the thin crimp break but i found it hard to get fingers into for the big top move. its going to be nigh on impossible for the short, we saw robin barkwad shut down on it.

lagerstarfish

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#15 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 12:58:25 pm
off to flesh out my tick/wish list now.....

It might be worth a short diversion up to Higgar East if you run out of stamina/skin/crimp ability. That curved arete on its right is a nice 7a/7a+ and is only 1 move on rounded skin freindlyish holds with short walk in (no sun in afternoon/eve so usually good friction). Seems to be one of those that people either find ok or impossible - well worth finding which group you are in... Its a really nice problem to have on your "can do" list to finish off sessions with. Landing is safer than it looks.



Dr T

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#16 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 01:02:17 pm
hadn't thought about higgar but it's pleasant wander so why not...

for some reason that video seems to have failed though  :-\

works fine from here though....

http://lagerstarfish.googlepages.com/higgareast

a dense loner

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#17 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 03:03:03 pm
maybe you could try and repeat r-mans "hardest arete eliminate" on the the remergence block, noted on 8a.nonsense, which incidently is not hard nor the hardest arete eliminate. i wouldn't bother with AQD or small is beautiful, i like these which tells a story, there's plenty more stuff around. the slopey sitter under the grogan has really good moves. if you're into burly probs maybe walk down and have a look at boyager. never tried it myself, went and had a look the other day. looks good, spotting required. i prefer banana reverse finishing up the direct, i don't like the hand swap to go right

Dr T

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#18 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 03:34:36 pm
pardon my (obvious) ignorance - am I right in thinking that boyager is what is referred to as Iain's prow in the BMC guide??
twas on winter sessions too if I remember..

dave

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#19 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 03:37:28 pm
banana reverse without reversing the original isn't banana reverse, its just adding 3 easy traverse moves into BFD. as i said above, the clue is in the name. i'd prefer powerband-into-PUTP without having to do PUTP, but life's a bitch.

boyager is iaiaiaian's prow ting. you'll need a fair few mats.

Andy B

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#20 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 05:14:44 pm
Just been to check out Boyager today. We unfortunately only had an Alp Kit postage stamp with us, and you really need a few decent pads to cover the spikey boulders, but it looks brilliant, really good line and rock. Is Mono Bulge the filthy block beneath boyager?

dave

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#21 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 05:22:26 pm
me and jiggaman pulled on buoyager on a hot day with not much in the way of mattage, felt like it'd be fine in reasonable temps with a team. yeah i assume the mono thing is the same thing you're on about.
« Last Edit: December 13, 2007, 05:29:28 pm by dave »

Jim

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#22 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 05:23:43 pm
the moves on the traverse into BF direct aren't as trivial as Dave would suggest, They are excellent moves though.
A good circuit on BF block is

BF
BF direct
traverse from left into BF direct
BF reverse
traverse from left into BF reverse
slopers problem left of BF start
same as above but from start by pinching the lower overlap

then when you get home, pour yourself a nice pint of millstone tiger rut.
Oh wait its just me that can do that  ;D

lagerstarfish

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#23 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 05:27:36 pm

slopers problem left of BF start
same as above but from start by pinching the lower overlap


That lower start is quality  :thumbsup:

Andy B

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#24 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 05:33:27 pm
Another good problem on here is to start on the low starting slot on Banana Finger, move up to the lip and traverse the lip leftwards all the way to finish up the drop down on banana reverse. About 7a+ or maybe a bit harder. Good moves.

a dense loner

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#25 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 09:52:53 pm
banana reverse without reversing the original isn't banana reverse, its just adding 3 easy traverse moves into BFD. as i said above, the clue is in the name. i'd prefer powerband-into-PUTP without having to do PUTP, but life's a bitch.

yes dave i can see what you're driving at. oh wait, i have no idea. the only difference in finishing right or direct on banana reverse is nothing. i expect 8a.users to tick both boxes, if it takes them 10 sessions to do one, they can still claim a flash for the other.

fatdoc

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#26 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 10:25:34 pm
Ok

i've no idea where boyager is...

soo... where is it guys? is it in the burb valley?? cos i got pass out to there both days of the weekend...

i got needs you know

abarro81

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#27 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 10:49:29 pm
is it the (unsurprisingly-voyageresque) prow in the woods between knights move area and 3 blind mice area? (half answer, half question...)

Andy B

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#28 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 09:44:46 am
is it the (unsurprisingly-voyageresque) prow in the woods between knights move area and 3 blind mice area? (half answer, half question...)

Yep, that sounds abut right. It's probably nearer knights move than 3 blind mice. We walked through the woods at mid height until we saw it towards the top of the tree line, but once you have an idea of where it is it's probably easier to approach from the base of the crag.

Johnny Brown

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#29 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 09:48:21 am
Quote
the only difference in finishing right or direct on banana reverse is nothing.

Here speaks a man who can't do the reverse, the crux of which is the finger swap after the up move on banana direct. Its so hard 9toez had to do it as a rose move, Dense just swears at it.

dave

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#30 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 09:51:19 am
the beta i got shown for that move was to go up to the next lefthand hold on BFD (those twin pebbles) then span down and right to the BF fingerslot. still ain't fucking easy though. i'd be more psyched to do this as a rose move.

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#31 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 09:58:44 am
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rose move.

Please excuse my ignorance, but what on earth is a rose move?

Johnny Brown

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#32 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 10:13:22 am
a cross under.

Jaspersharpe

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#33 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 10:31:29 am
Quote
rose move.

Please excuse my ignorance, but what on earth is a rose move?

 :spank:


a dense loner

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#34 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 10:32:07 am
unbelievable!
no wonder you find it easier then dave if you go half way up the other prob anyway. by your logic, and anyone with style, you have not done the reverse since nowhere on the original do you use the pebbles :hug:

dave

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#35 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 10:44:57 am
so let me get this straight, i can't use the pebbles, but i'm fine to totally sack-off the reversing of the original buy topping out the Direct which presumably uses the pebbles anyway.  :-\  well theres no arguing with that type of watertight reasoning.

Jim

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#36 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 11:07:02 am
so were all agreed that both Dense and Dave haven't done banana reverse

Dr T

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#37 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 02:06:00 pm
hold on a sec - I've got my arc welder here somewhere....
got it....
right now to reseal that can of worms  ;D

seriously though thanx to all for your comments
fingers crossed that the weather is holding, metcheck is still promising
hopefully see a few of you around - yes I look vaguely like my avatar....

a dense loner

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#38 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:04:54 pm
no no no dave. what i'm saying to you is the pebbles above the break are not used on BF so how can you use them on the reverse? what i'm saying to dr t is there is no difference, except one is nice the other isn't, and what i'm saying to johnny is "unbelievable".
i have done BR many times however i don't like the hand swap so now just finish up the direct. i will give myself the BR tick for this every time even tho i haven't finished up PUTP. i do not do it using a rose move since i have 10 toes

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#39 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:08:11 pm
i'll buy you a beer if you do it finishing up putp.

dave

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#40 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:17:55 pm
no no no dave. what i'm saying to you is the pebbles above the break are not used on BF so how can you use them on the reverse?

because you use them on BFD, which you're climbing to access the reverse section from which the problem takes its name. theres lots of holds on BR that you don't use on BF.

you'll be telling me next you do extended warefare by just topping out up gorilla warefare. ::)

a dense loner

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#41 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:25:57 pm
of course, don't you?

i also do play hard by topping out up the crack ;)

dave

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#42 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:31:37 pm
i too start playhard in the crack, and also finish it with the crack. the crack is also useful for the section in the middle. i thought it seemed a bit soft for 7c, was was thinking more like 5+.

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#43 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:56:40 pm
I do it that way too.  What you see on all the videos are simply one of Ben Moon's many duff sequences.

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#44 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 04:44:47 pm
i too start playhard in the crack, and also finish it with the crack. the crack is also useful for the section in the middle. i thought it seemed a bit soft for 7c, was was thinking more like 5+.

a dog. with the body of a cat, and the head of... a cat.

lagerstarfish

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#45 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 04:51:48 pm
That crack was my first and only 7c.
I am now worried that it might be downgraded to 5 in the next guide book  :'(
I see little point in doing that silly eliminate that Ben does when my laybacking and jamming skills are up to the job.

Jim

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#46 Re: Banana Reverse
December 15, 2007, 01:03:03 am
maybe dense has done it then?
If you ain't done the finger swap crux thing then you ain't done BR I'm afraid Dave, I'll send the guidebook ticking police round ya crib yo!
Anyway there are a lot of quality problems to be done on banana finger block so get to it even if you have a body of a cat.
I know cofe will be ordering in at least 3 crates of poppers.

saltbeef - you generous bastard

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#47 Re: Banana Reverse
December 24, 2007, 03:17:09 pm
Quote
the only difference in finishing right or direct on banana reverse is nothing.

Here speaks a man who can't do the reverse, the crux of which is the finger swap after the up move on banana direct. Its so hard 9toez had to do it as a rose move, Dense just swears at it.

blimey. i thought that bit was ok and im shit. with fat fingers.

Jim

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#48 Re: Banana Reverse
December 24, 2007, 03:41:56 pm
that sounds pretty good doing it as a rose move. will try it next time I'm there

no wait it sounds hideous

 

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