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Banana Reverse (Read 11425 times)

a dense loner

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#25 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 09:52:53 pm
banana reverse without reversing the original isn't banana reverse, its just adding 3 easy traverse moves into BFD. as i said above, the clue is in the name. i'd prefer powerband-into-PUTP without having to do PUTP, but life's a bitch.

yes dave i can see what you're driving at. oh wait, i have no idea. the only difference in finishing right or direct on banana reverse is nothing. i expect 8a.users to tick both boxes, if it takes them 10 sessions to do one, they can still claim a flash for the other.

fatdoc

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#26 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 10:25:34 pm
Ok

i've no idea where boyager is...

soo... where is it guys? is it in the burb valley?? cos i got pass out to there both days of the weekend...

i got needs you know

abarro81

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#27 Re: Banana Reverse
December 13, 2007, 10:49:29 pm
is it the (unsurprisingly-voyageresque) prow in the woods between knights move area and 3 blind mice area? (half answer, half question...)

Andy B

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#28 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 09:44:46 am
is it the (unsurprisingly-voyageresque) prow in the woods between knights move area and 3 blind mice area? (half answer, half question...)

Yep, that sounds abut right. It's probably nearer knights move than 3 blind mice. We walked through the woods at mid height until we saw it towards the top of the tree line, but once you have an idea of where it is it's probably easier to approach from the base of the crag.

Johnny Brown

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#29 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 09:48:21 am
Quote
the only difference in finishing right or direct on banana reverse is nothing.

Here speaks a man who can't do the reverse, the crux of which is the finger swap after the up move on banana direct. Its so hard 9toez had to do it as a rose move, Dense just swears at it.

dave

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#30 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 09:51:19 am
the beta i got shown for that move was to go up to the next lefthand hold on BFD (those twin pebbles) then span down and right to the BF fingerslot. still ain't fucking easy though. i'd be more psyched to do this as a rose move.

slackline

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#31 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 09:58:44 am
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rose move.

Please excuse my ignorance, but what on earth is a rose move?

Johnny Brown

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#32 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 10:13:22 am
a cross under.

Jaspersharpe

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#33 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 10:31:29 am
Quote
rose move.

Please excuse my ignorance, but what on earth is a rose move?

 :spank:


a dense loner

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#34 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 10:32:07 am
unbelievable!
no wonder you find it easier then dave if you go half way up the other prob anyway. by your logic, and anyone with style, you have not done the reverse since nowhere on the original do you use the pebbles :hug:

dave

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#35 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 10:44:57 am
so let me get this straight, i can't use the pebbles, but i'm fine to totally sack-off the reversing of the original buy topping out the Direct which presumably uses the pebbles anyway.  :-\  well theres no arguing with that type of watertight reasoning.

Jim

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#36 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 11:07:02 am
so were all agreed that both Dense and Dave haven't done banana reverse

Dr T

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#37 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 02:06:00 pm
hold on a sec - I've got my arc welder here somewhere....
got it....
right now to reseal that can of worms  ;D

seriously though thanx to all for your comments
fingers crossed that the weather is holding, metcheck is still promising
hopefully see a few of you around - yes I look vaguely like my avatar....

a dense loner

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#38 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:04:54 pm
no no no dave. what i'm saying to you is the pebbles above the break are not used on BF so how can you use them on the reverse? what i'm saying to dr t is there is no difference, except one is nice the other isn't, and what i'm saying to johnny is "unbelievable".
i have done BR many times however i don't like the hand swap so now just finish up the direct. i will give myself the BR tick for this every time even tho i haven't finished up PUTP. i do not do it using a rose move since i have 10 toes

saltbeef

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#39 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:08:11 pm
i'll buy you a beer if you do it finishing up putp.

dave

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#40 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:17:55 pm
no no no dave. what i'm saying to you is the pebbles above the break are not used on BF so how can you use them on the reverse?

because you use them on BFD, which you're climbing to access the reverse section from which the problem takes its name. theres lots of holds on BR that you don't use on BF.

you'll be telling me next you do extended warefare by just topping out up gorilla warefare. ::)

a dense loner

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#41 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:25:57 pm
of course, don't you?

i also do play hard by topping out up the crack ;)

dave

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#42 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:31:37 pm
i too start playhard in the crack, and also finish it with the crack. the crack is also useful for the section in the middle. i thought it seemed a bit soft for 7c, was was thinking more like 5+.

Paz

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#43 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 03:56:40 pm
I do it that way too.  What you see on all the videos are simply one of Ben Moon's many duff sequences.

cofe

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#44 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 04:44:47 pm
i too start playhard in the crack, and also finish it with the crack. the crack is also useful for the section in the middle. i thought it seemed a bit soft for 7c, was was thinking more like 5+.

a dog. with the body of a cat, and the head of... a cat.

lagerstarfish

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#45 Re: Banana Reverse
December 14, 2007, 04:51:48 pm
That crack was my first and only 7c.
I am now worried that it might be downgraded to 5 in the next guide book  :'(
I see little point in doing that silly eliminate that Ben does when my laybacking and jamming skills are up to the job.

Jim

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#46 Re: Banana Reverse
December 15, 2007, 01:03:03 am
maybe dense has done it then?
If you ain't done the finger swap crux thing then you ain't done BR I'm afraid Dave, I'll send the guidebook ticking police round ya crib yo!
Anyway there are a lot of quality problems to be done on banana finger block so get to it even if you have a body of a cat.
I know cofe will be ordering in at least 3 crates of poppers.

saltbeef - you generous bastard

simes

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#47 Re: Banana Reverse
December 24, 2007, 03:17:09 pm
Quote
the only difference in finishing right or direct on banana reverse is nothing.

Here speaks a man who can't do the reverse, the crux of which is the finger swap after the up move on banana direct. Its so hard 9toez had to do it as a rose move, Dense just swears at it.

blimey. i thought that bit was ok and im shit. with fat fingers.

Jim

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#48 Re: Banana Reverse
December 24, 2007, 03:41:56 pm
that sounds pretty good doing it as a rose move. will try it next time I'm there

no wait it sounds hideous

 

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