[crazymadtom]

any info on this boulder? looks good in the videos. Is it worth a vist/time spent on it. any beta?

cheers

[Johnny Brown]

I believe its the forest 8a of choice if you're plenty strong. Footwork not required.

[saltbeef]

video of roddy mackenzie doing it how johnny would ie with a heel on you tube (thats not a slur) it looks ace.

[Johnny Brown]

Indeed. I haven't seen it, apologies for my previous beta but it was Dense derived...

[saltbeef]

ie two crimps and a slap!
most of the other vids they don't do this to be fair. looks very good though.
anyone know what the landing is like?!

[Jim]

landing is fine beef.
Now stop being such a big girls blouse

[saltbeef]

i need lots of perfect landings having managed to dislocate my foot on a flat grass landing. doh!
its out of my grade range.

[a dense loner]

it always will be if you don't try it

[fatdoc]

you're lucky to even have a grade range mate

[Doylo]

tis a good problem , didn't think it was amazing though although it was wet when we saw it. I'd say only go if your decent on small two finger pockets, its a small one!

[Dr T]

if you want the beta watch this I guess...


http://bleau.info/longsvaux/1499.html

[Jaspersharpe]

Totally confused about this. The stand up is 8a and the first move after pulling on is the slap out right (or you can do it the other way with the heel at the same grade?). The low start is 8a+ (although it gets 8b on Bleau.info). It starts on some holds (which, people can't seem to agree on) and does a couple of hard moves into the stand up. Then the sit start is 8b (?) but which holds does that start on? And if doing the low or sit start is the heel sequence allowed and/or does it change the grade? 

I can't climb this hard either but I hope to be able to in a year or two and the problem(s) look(s) class.

Edit: Satan I Helvete and the various variants on it look ridiculously hard. Think I get where they go but I really don't need to know about that.

[a dense loner]

this boulder is very unlike font climbing. the second of three, young daniel cattell, did the low start to fata very quickly. he declared it piss if you climb on a board, den 7b anyone? obviously the truth here is far different ie it's quite hard. satan looks amazing jasper. really good climbing. the lower starts are boggling when you're there, hope the new guide has made some sense of these. i don't really believe the bit about you not climbing that hard tho. they're called spies for a reason

[Jaspersharpe]

Yes I'm awaiting delivery of my guide so hopefully you're right. I have very specific strengths and weaknesses at the moment Dense. As in my fingers are quite strong but my arms are as weak as a small child's. If the spies haven't noticed this then either they aren't doing their job properly or it is misinformation that you are receiving. 

[monkey boy]

Stick the first move and your in! Its a good one if your strong as it does require very little technique. Hardest bit is probably turning the little pocket into a crimp. On the link i didnt end up doing this and just open handed it but it makes the last moves a bit more difficult! Class boulder though!

[saltbeef]

didn't keith have a vid of danny doing it on here or did i imagine it, tried searching but to no avail, something about 2 gentlemen in font?

[Jim]

your right salty sea dog. I can't be arsed finding it tho as I've got it on my hard drive

[monkey boy]

didn't keith have a vid of danny doing it on here or did i imagine it, tried searching but to no avail, something about 2 gentlemen in font?

Seen as i know you have time on your hands when you do eventually find it, you fancy re-posting it?! Be good to see monsieur DC crushing!

[Jaspersharpe]

[Jaspersharpe]

Heelhook method..........




Some footage of the low start or possibly the sit start (he's claiming 8b either way  ) in the first minute of this. Unfortunately it's wank footage so not very helpful for beta...........



And here is an American chap also seemingly claiming 8b for the 8a+ low start and Chad Greedy calling it the sit start in the video description. More confusion..........




Yes I've got too much time on my hands but that's because I'm in the office "working" on a Saturday. 

[a dense loner]

good links. never seen the heel method before. will leave that kind of thing to huffy tho. the pocket looks tiny on them vids but is actually really nice

[Jaspersharpe]

Well the new guide does seem to clear this up. The stand up is 8a the sit start is 8b and that's it.

The low start thing isn't included which seems fair enough (as it's only half the sitter really by the looks of things) and this removes any confusion as to which holds you're supposed to start on and whether it's 8a+ or 8b etc etc.

Makes it much easier to understand from where I'm sitting and I'm a stand up kinda guy, I sit you not.