Some mid grade additions to Gardoms South (Read 53155 times)

RopeBoy · November 27, 2006, 08:55:04 pm

Must have a chat with you on Wednesday evening. I've noticed all the evidence but was unaware of who it was chalking the stuff up.

J

Bonjoy · December 02, 2006, 08:30:20 pm

Yet more Gardom's activity. This time at the north end and the work of Mr Harris. The as yet unnamed roof is at the upper northernmost end of the boulders behind A Tasty Graunch etc. Very much in the G North syle involving crimps and heel-toes to reach slopers round the lip, then a slopey rockover/mantle finish. The landing is not ideal but nothing a couple of pads and a spot won't sort out. Quick repeats from Roy and me confirmed the grade at 7a+.

r-man · December 04, 2006, 04:52:12 pm

Finally checked out some of the Gardoms highballs. Did the Fearful Orange problems - thought they were all excellent, tricky starts followed by exciting finishes on good holds. Only had one spotter and two thin mats, more would have been nice, but it added to the experience. Will be back to seek out Double Bum and English Voodoo.

Andy Harris · December 09, 2006, 11:52:16 am

Finally plumped for a name.

"Joint Care"

Watch those knees guys. And the petfood aisle at your local supermercado!

Andy

cofe · December 09, 2006, 06:44:17 pm

some great problems down here.

Scouse D · December 10, 2006, 05:17:11 pm

Seconded. English voodoo and fearful orange are top drawer.

cofe · December 10, 2006, 06:18:40 pm

puts in context how good these probs are when you consider that most of gardoms north stuff is dogshit.

dave · December 10, 2006, 11:07:55 pm

I too would like to take this opportunity to offer my wholehearted endorsement of the aforementioned problems.

r-man · December 11, 2006, 12:14:27 am

Quote from: dave on December 10, 2006, 11:07:55 pm

I too would like to take this opportunity to offer my wholehearted endorsement of the aforementioned problems.

Better hurry then, before you miss the moment...

dave · December 11, 2006, 07:54:58 pm

I only said that i would like to, not that i was going to.

r-man · February 19, 2007, 12:43:41 am

Played at Gardoms today, mostly backing off from things since we only had one mat. Conditions not great, though monkey boy stilled squeezed up Pogles Wood sitter - I couldn't even do the standup. Gritstone Treaty looks amazing, though we didn't dare try it with only one mat.

Went searching for Double Bum, but didn't recognise it in the dusk (thought it was a non-problem despite looking at it twice). Found this though, an overhanging wall a little further right. Is this Dirty business? French start to a jug (low start probably hard), big move to pocket in break, then a combination of ramp and left arete and a high step to top out on easy angled slab, heart beating. Not hard, but dark and damp patches made it very exciting. From re-reading thread, this sounds like possibly the DB block, though this seemed the obvious line and I didn't use the arete till later.

I question ye.

Bonjoy · February 19, 2007, 08:45:43 am

That block is is the home of Dirty Business and Business As Usual. DB climbs the left arete from sitter, all the way on it's RHS (the LHS can also be climbed, it's slightly easier). BAU climbs the middle without either arete, jump start as mentioned.

I imagine DB would have had heavy seepage yesterday anyway.

r-man · February 19, 2007, 09:28:28 am

Ta. Quel grade? Felt 6bish, but scary. Good problem.

Bonjoy · February 19, 2007, 09:49:26 am

DB was given 6b+ by Rob, BAU was originally graded E5 6b and led with a cam in the break. Not sure what grade i'd give it F6C+/V5 maybe, but it's a while since I did it.

r-man · February 19, 2007, 10:30:23 am

Brilliant, E5!

Is the arete really straightforward when it's in condition? Looked trickier than BAU. Doubt BAU is 6c+ - it's just jug pulling, with a slightly awkward top. Even 6c feels a bit much, but hey, probably best to overgrade highballs I suppose. Safer anyway.

Been using this topo to navigate around all the new stuff. Just a copy and paste job from this thread, plus I've added a few directions. Maybe other folk will find it useful...

http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Gardoms%20Circuit2.pdf

Somebody's Fool · February 19, 2007, 10:38:42 am

Quote from: Bonjoy on February 19, 2007, 08:45:43 am

BAU climbs the middle without either arete

As the man said, for your E5 tick the aretes are out. I should know, I've backed off the fucker three times in the last year. Oh to be as reckless as a pissed up Tetler...

Bonjoy · February 19, 2007, 10:43:44 am

Yes, the direct topout is not trivial.

r-man · February 19, 2007, 10:59:59 am

Damn. Bloody Eliminates.

Have amended topo.

Disapointed now. Crushed, even.

Ah well. Maybe I should go back and climb the bottom of DB into the top of BAU. Grumble grumble.

Can I have an E-grade for the left arete? I feel like I deserve something for all that fear...

Somebody's Fool · February 19, 2007, 11:26:15 am

Hell no. As the man said, 6b+.

r-man · February 19, 2007, 11:43:49 am

Thought as much.

I do think the direct is very eliminate though - I had my left hand on the arete, and right on the top of the ramp for the final move - ignoring the arete just seemed like a duff sequence!

In fact, as DB was climbed after BAU, isn't BAU just the obvious line up the block, and DB the eliminate? The problem I'm having is that I climbed the line of least resistance, and it was good fun. Both routes as described may have good climbing, but are a little contrived, which seems a shame, when the obvious way up is so worthwhile. Maybe you feel differently, but sans guide, I did what seemed like the obvious challenge.

Anyway, I'm claiming D5 for the atmospheric darkness, where D10 is pitch black, and D11 is blacker still. Obviously, if you fell of a D10, you'd probably land on your head and die, erased by the night... whereas if you fell off a D11, you'd just keep on falling, deeper and deeper into the obsidian oblivion...

Bonjoy · February 19, 2007, 11:52:23 am

Effort with the topo robin. Another one you could add is the left arete of Bin Laden's block, done a few weeks back by Jamie Lilleman 7a+ I think he said, harder than BLC.
Straight up sans arete seemed the obvious way to me on BAU. It didn't feel contrived. The way it climbs (left foot on ramp) means the left arete is out of easy reach. I dare say using the left arete might not have been an option when I did BAU as it had yet to be cleaned for use on DB.

r-man · February 19, 2007, 12:40:50 pm

I did try direct to begin with, as it looks the obvious way from the ground. It's not the easiest way though, and to me the challenge was to get to the top. But hey.

Updated topo - Bin Laden's left arete included.

http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Gardoms%20Circuit3.pdf

How about making a sticky for miscellaneous topos? Stuff like this, the Tube, a link to that matlock one, and whatever else? (Actually maybe this is just peak topos in search of a home.)

Bonjoy · February 19, 2007, 12:58:31 pm

Quote from: r-man on February 19, 2007, 12:40:50 pm

It's not the easiest way though, and to me the challenge was to get to the top.

There's an easy way up round the back. You've a very purist attitude for a Brownstones afficionado

Might be an idea to put links to topos in the descriptions on Bouldr. Or you could create a thread and gather all the relevant bits together and i'll make it a sticky in Beta.

Fiend · February 19, 2007, 01:04:01 pm

Are you allowed to handjam between the tree on Bin Laden's Cave LA?

Bonjoy · February 19, 2007, 01:16:01 pm

Have never actually been to BLC. Jamie did mention that a tree growing on the rock spoilled the aesthetics somewhat, but it still climbs nice.