[Bonjoy]

 Did Dirty Business and the one up the LH side today. Both really good we thought, especially DB and not at all dirty! The LH one seemed about 6b/6b+.
 Somebody's Fool added another new one on the butress right of the one with Spanish Fly and Vaya Con Dios on it. Roof and rib 6a-ish with right arete and 6c-ish straight up the rib without arete. Good warm ups for Pogles/Perfect day. Have a video I might stick up on Youtube, if I get chance.

[Bonjoy]

Vid of SFs new 6c ish prob mentioned earlier
  (I amazed how much image quality is lost uploading to YouTube!)

[Somebody's Fool]

As long as the quality of the fare on show doesn't suffer.  That's the main thing.
I'm thinking of calling this Bloc Steno, which is French for shorthand notebook.  If you didn't already know.

[Fiend]

Looks pretty neat.

[r-man]

These all look really good. Will try and get out there soon. Any chance of a basic topo? I'm losing track of what goes where. Pretty please?

___

(I amazed how much image quality is lost uploading to YouTube!)

Have you checked out http://www.snapdrive.net - you can upload up to 2GB for free, with max file size of 100mb. Handy for movies. They can't be viewed online, and have to be downloaded, but that's not such a bad thing.

[Bonjoy]

I'll try them next time, cheers r.
Will scribble down a basic topo and scan it in later if i get a chance

[Idol eyes]

Oh dear, I have done all of these, thought them to be John Allen outings!
the overhanging sloper problem is named Solomon, after my godson.
looking at the shots, I think all three are the ones i have climbed, but would be suprised if they had not been climbed before...
There is also a great direct to a Nigel Prestige E4, do not know the name but if you find an isolated tower with a series of side pulls on a bowed wall, i have done the dyno at E-7A, needs a sitter.
I spent a lot of time at this crag...

[Bonjoy]

As I said already this one...

... is a low start to a John Allen micro route Squeeze Your Lemon. Are you saying you did this already?
 I also said that Neutral Milk Hotel was done years ago by various people including me. I gave it a name because nobody else had and it's good enough to deserve one.
 What do you mean by the overhanging sloper one, this doesn't sound like anything I did?
 Two Headed Boy had a lot of thick lichen on the slopey ledge and a big pointed rock beneath the crux rockover. To my knowledge the ledge has never been cleaned in the 15 years I have been visiting Gardom's. I admire your balls doing that move on thick filth above that landing (have moved rocks to improve now)!
 What dyno do you mean?

r-man heres a rough location map

[r-man]

Excellent, cheers! Looking forward to having a good day out here.

[Bonjoy]

Here's a better shot of Fearful Orange

 

[Idol eyes]

The problem to the left of this is Soloman. did this one pictured, and very nearly did the roof to the right! this is not a spray, just happy to see others enjoying Retro problems, (Soloman needed hard cleaning before my ascent)
I feel like a martyr

[Bonjoy]

The one to the left is this
I called Chav's Head, english 6a/6b Font 6b?
Or did you do a harder one going up to the sloper on the RH side of the arete? This looked possible but harder.
 The thing with the one pictured is that there was a v large quarried block resting against the groove, up to roughly where his chalkbag is making the low start from the triangular sloper inaccessible/impossible until I moved this. You must have done the standard John Allen version starting on the big undercuts above his head, which is now the top half of a great prob.
 The roof to the right looks desperate and now has a awkward block under it.

[Bonjoy]

 This sort of illustrates one of the problems with retro claiming. Someone retro claims something based on a sketchy memory. On this rare occasion the circumstances mean this is  proved mistaken. If the circumstances hadn't been thus (i.e. if the boulder had not been in the way), it would have to be presumed that said someone had done the FA even though he would still be just as mistaken. Maybe it's better to be sure of what you've done before retrospectively claiming something, or not to bother if unsure?

[a dense loner]

bonjoy surprised us all again on sunday with yet another good problem. double bump indeed

[Somebody's Fool]

Oi Jarhead. I believe it's called Double Bum.
Your 'no matching' antics were a sight to behold. 

[a dense loner]

like the shirt says "watching makes you weak"

[r-man]

It was dry on Sunday? Gardoms North was wet so we retreated to Burbage.

[a dense loner]

dry as the proverbial bone

[Somebody's Fool]

Not quite true.  There was a bit of seepage out of Double Bum.

[Bonjoy]

 Some details in case anyone's interested:
 Double Bum - 7a -  On the inset quarried bay containing Master of Thought in the Apple Buttress area, right of the route/highball called Cider is a narrow recessed overhanging wall. Launch for the horizontal pinch and exit rightward via sloping ledge and jug. The crimpy highball direct finish is still to do. FA pre-2003?

Some old pics:

[Scouse D]

That looks great. It is officially on my 'to do' list.

[r-man]

Was going to ask what Double Bum was. Looks really good. Shame G.North frightened us off on Sunday.

Some questions, so next time I try and persuade our group I'll be better able to deal with their scepticism:

-Do the edge problems often stay dry when G.North is damp?

-Looks like the best plan of attack might be to park at South and start at Fearful Orange (reasonable warm ups?) then work back along the edge to the car? (Maybe come back for the other bits another day.)

[Bonjoy]

 Gardom's North is often last to dry so if it's a bit iffy you are better off starting  at the other end (parked at the Robin Hood).
 The Jackalope is very quick drying. Shame there isn't much else at Moorside. English Voodoo is quick drying. The Sauvitto area would be next to dry, then Fear Orange etc although NMH might have a wet streak.
 The Fearful Orange area is mostly highball, so you might want to be warmed up before you go there. A good south end circuit might be to warm up at G-thang/Sauvitto, nip over and do Jackalope, then wander over to Fearful Orange area, then head back south to Double Bum (seeps after prolonged rain), then Dirty Business/Business as Usual and finish with English Voodoo. You'd have to move very fast to take in all the best probs on the whole crag in a day!

[Fj]

Its good to see people keen on Double Bum, I saw it on an internet list a couple of years ago and hunted it down.
I'm fairly sure it was apeindex so maybe grimer (assuming the site and lectures were related) could shed some light on the fa?

[Bonjoy]

 The FA was me, I just couldn't remember when off the top of my head. Checked diary and it was spring 2003