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Some mid grade additions to Gardoms South (Read 53154 times)

SA Chris

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They believe they do.

Bonjoy

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Ahoy spicy captain, that looks good. Did you all do Double Bum in the end?

Johnny Brown

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Yes we did, all three versions. Need to return with beans for the topout.

Bonjoy

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You bring the beans, i'll bring the bacon, egg, sausage and mushroom. We'll be eating breakfast all over it, like it's a formica tabletop.

Idol eyes

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If I was around, we could all brew some lovely rinsemeal.... but i would only eat Ego Pops! with skitzed out milky wilky.

Jim

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just got video clip of adam doing the sitter to the latest problem here.
Could I email it someone so they can put it on youtube or similar and post it up here as I can't be arsed to sign up for an account and learn how to use it?

Jim

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I had to do it myself then


cofe

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looks good.

Idol eyes

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Champagne Wall???

r-man

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I checked out a few of these problems recently.

English Voodoo is very nice. From the pics I've seen, it looks as though the original sequence may have been harder - we used a right hand crack for the top section? Sitter felt 7a+ maybe.

Also tried Another Green World. Failed miserably! Don't think it's 7a! Anyone else done this apart from JB?

cofe

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Also tried Another Green World. Failed miserably! Don't think it's 7a! Anyone else done this apart from JB?

tried it a while back and it felt frustratingly knacky. I think we'd had to warm up on it which didn't help.

Bonjoy

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English Voodoo is very nice. From the pics I've seen, it looks as though the original sequence may have been harder - we used a right hand crack for the top section? Sitter felt 7a+ maybe.


I should have made this more clear at the outset, as you're not the first person to do this. EV doesn't use the crack, call it an eliminate (I prefer tight line) but them's the rules. I figured this would go without saying, cos if you use the crack at all you might as well climb the crack sans arete at about 5+ (which I also did but didn't bother to name/grade). IMO it only makes (perfect) sense as a problem if you eliminate the crack completely, hence that's what it's graded for.
Here's a pic for illustrations sake.

r-man

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So no crack on the sitter either?

Bonjoy

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Correct, hence tough 7b.

dave

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first ascent or thereabouts:


Sloper

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Nice overbite, in fact really nice looking rock, where abouts is it?

dave

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under charlotte rampling.

Johnny Brown

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One from the archive, winter of '98-'99. Posted solely to add vital credibility to my claims that Pat and I 'did everything around that time, but didn't believe them worth recording'.

Competing for the wall that became China in your hands


I'll stick a couple more in the old skool thread.

cofe

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that's one for the new guide ken

Jim

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worm did another green world but only after 1000+ goes.

r-man

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I only had 999 goes. More fool me.

cofe

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Egg and your face must have been in alignment

Bonjoy

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So no crack on the sitter either?
So....? What sequence did you use on the sitter? I figured two ways to do it (sans crack of course) both seemed pretty 7b when linked into the top.

r-man

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One hand in the crack, one on the arete. Get legs involved and slap a bit to get guppy jug. Come onto the arete, then work upwards and rock right to gain crack, then go again for top. Actually a very nice sequence, but I'll have another look sans crack. Maybe there's room for two versions?

 

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