[Bonjoy]

 A couple of weeks ago I added a bunch of new problems to Gardoms middle/south, a mini circuit if you will. I have some pictures at home and will post up when I get a chance.
 The problems are generally borderline highball, but none too scary with a couple of pads and a spot. Gardoms south/Moorside has always been a bit of a limited circuit for the length of walk in. This new area would combine well to make a fairly chunky session. Business as Usual and Double Bum are also passed along the way and could be added.
 All the new probs bar one are on Capillary Crack Butress, the next buttress left of Grooved Wall (the one with Waterloo Sunset on), approx 100m left of the Apple Buttress area.
 Don't hold me too accountable for the starring, it's mostly their to give a vague idea of their comparative merits and hopefully to goad people into making the extra walk. Suffice to say I think they are worthwhile problems.
From left to right:

* Chav's Head 6a+ - The nose-like arete/prow on the far left of the buttress, from a sit start. Reach round the chin, share the nose, get the sloping brow and slap for the baseball cap.

*** A Fearful Orange 6c+ - Starting on a perfect triangular sloper in the open groove to the right, gain and climb the highball dogleg crack, lurching left at the top for a tiny groove (the top bit is a neglected John Allen E1 6a called Squeeze Your Lemon).

* Fearful Head 6c+ - The start of AFO traversing into the end of CH at the undercuts.

** Neutral Milk Hotel 6a - The lovely highball arete behind the oak tree climbed on it's LHS. May have been done years ago, I remember seeing it cleaned and climbing it a fair few years ago.
 
** Two Headed Boy 6c - The arete up it's RHS to the shelf which is then traversed right to it's end then rockup via a undercut fingerlock.

* Ladder Coins 6b - Up the hill at the right side of the buttress, right of a small birch tree. Up the wall to a ledge via sloping crimps. Just left of a groove. Can be done direct or with a LH finish which is easier but not as good.

The last prob is on the big block just below Charlotte Rampling on Pillar buttress (the most southerly buttress on the main edge):

*** English Voodoo 7a - The overhanging arete/prow, with great moves on a pocket, an exceptionally tasty pinch and some layaways


 Obviously i'm keen to hear any feedback if anyone does take a look.

[dave]

me and the slopefield did the chav's head thing and can confirm its well brown.

[Bonjoy]

 Was there again today and with nice conditions things felt a fair bit less hard. So much so I've changed the grades on the original post.
 Also added a sit start to English Voodoo at 7b.

[Bonjoy]

Some pics from a couple of weeks back.


Dan Ogden on A Fearful Orange


Steff on Two Headed Boy


Cofe on Two headed Boy


Dan on Two Headed Boy


Rhys on Chav’s Head

[dave]

Also added a sit start to English Voodoo at 7b.

nice work.

P.S. was reading the chatsworth guide last week, I didn't realise the charlotte rampling doesn't even climb the ramp feature, but instead takes the wall to the L of it. Now theres an outstanding line waiting for someone.

[Fiend]

Oggers let you get no less than 3 photos with him in?? Blimey he is getting socialble!

Looks good in the shots...

[a dense loner]

hate myself for saying it but these new probs are actually very good, indeed one of the party was declaring the crack as one of the best probs he'd ever done on grit. all this while i was trying to be sick in the woods. alcohol is evil

[Somebody's Fool]

To be fair, 'one of the party' has never been to the mighty Hobson Moor have they.  They are very good problems though,  English Voodoo was like a better version of Excalibur at Cuisiniere.  You going back next weekend to redpoint being sick in the woods?

[Johnny Brown]

That Fearful Orange is ringing some bells, can't find squeeze your lemon in the guide though? Me n The RingSting did some stuff here in the vintage seasons of  98/99 and 99/00, be worth me trying to remember what. Never recorded anything as there was obviously someone else on with the same game at the time... landings n chalk would change between visits. Due to their patio building skills in one spot we presumed it was Jerry.

[Bonjoy]

 Me and Kim did what i've called Neutral Milk Hotel (in the modern guidebook tradition of retronaming unclaimed lines) back in the day possibly around that time, but it was brushed and looked to have been done by others before that. I remember a line up the wall 5m right on slots being cleaned around then too, but this is still unclimbed, not exceptionally inspiring but still there if anyone is looking for that sort of thing.
 The landing under AFO (the first moves where not accessible without moving a big rock), THB (very gnarly large spike which I leveled by building up around it) and EV took some heavy lifting and patioation to sort, which is why they never got done before I'd guess. I dare say Chav's Head and Ladder Coins may have been done in the past.
 

[Johnny Brown]

Still can't find it in the guide - when you say 100m left of Apple buttress are you being the crow acawing atop undertakers buttress or the ant toiling up (not down!) in search of a cider apple?

[Bonjoy]

 Definately the crow. Squeeze Your Lemon is in the yellow Chatsworth guide, left of Jumping Jack Flash and Capillary Crack. The whole buttress is off the Rockfax radar (obviously).

[Bonjoy]

Some more Gardom's action from Rob Smith. This time on the Business as Usual block. This is the overhanging quarried block 300m right (SE) of Apple Buttress.
Dirty Business 6b+ - OHing left arete on it's steep RH side.

The left arete was climbed on its right from a sit down by me all the way to the top at about a bold font 6b+ although this may be totally wrong as felt hard because of green slime, how about "dirty business" for a name.  The left hand side of the arete was climbed as a stand up, and goes all the way to the top on the left side but not sure which memeber of the team did it first. Not sure if I should name it, possibly Jamie who did it first.   

[unclesomebody]

I remember a line up the wall 5m right on slots being cleaned around then too, but this is still unclimbed, not exceptionally inspiring but still there if anyone is looking for that sort of thing.
 

What would that be then? I seem to remember a wall by that description but it's all very hazy... Has it not been climbing because it's hard or because it really is shit like you say? Where exactly is this wall? I only have the chatsworth guide and the bouldering guide to go by... thanks

[Jim]

if bonjoy says its not inspiring then its gotta be utter dog shit

[Johnny Brown]

You fool! You're the ant! There I was thinking my guide had a page missing... will need a site visit to check, the thing we did was pretty good and will be worthy of inclusion on this circuit.

[Bonjoy]

if bonjoy says its not inspiring then its gotta be utter dog shit

Look if you're refering to The Bi-curious Cormorant, it was only a joke problem. Care to name any other prob i've ever done that's log?

Uncle - It's the wall left of Jumping Jack, slots are narrow and overhung so you can't crimp. Prossibly only 7b+/7c but above a slanted rock. If the landing was good it might be a good prob.

JB - Oh yes I am the ant aren't I . My appleogies

[cowboyhat]

Neutral Milk Hotel is one of the albums I was going to give you Johnny - its amazing.

[Bonjoy]

In The Aeroplane Over The Sea? It's king of my collection at the mo.

[Johnny Brown]

Just got Hot Chip's first, ta! Look forward to more....

[Jim]

if bonjoy says its not inspiring then its gotta be utter dog shit

Look if you're refering to The Bi-curious Cormorant, it was only a joke problem. Care to name any other prob i've ever done that's log?

don't worry, I'm only jealous cos you beat me to the 1st ascent

[Bonjoy]

Both sides of English Voodoo

LHS


RHS

[Jim]

thats does look good. Dense & enigma went down today, will await report.
Will be having a look next week when not working

[enigma]

REPORT:

"Well informed no doubt" (Somebody's Fool, 2006)

It was too fucking wet, so we didn't go.

[Bonjoy]

From a couple of weeks back. A couple more new things by Rob Smith and Jamie Lilleman

The left arete [of Business As Usual] was climbed on its right from a sit down by me all the way to the top at about a bold font 6b+ although this may be totally wrong as felt hard because of green slime, how about "Dirty Business" for a name.  The left hand side of the arete was climbed as a stand up, and goes all the way to the top on the left side but not sure which memeber of the team did it first. Not sure if I should name it, possibly Jamie who did it first.