[Bonjoy]

I did DB without the flake as a deliberate eliminate because it´s a fun an obvious move. Also did it with flake on the same day but didn´t rate it as much and wouldn´t have mentioned it as a new prob at the time for the all-holds way. Wouldn´t normally give a name to an eliminate on grit, but really liked the move in this case.
 As Sombody´s Fool says, there is no need to do Perfect Day direct as a french start, it is better and obviously a bit harder to do it from a pull on, it was my impression that Ru had graded it for the non-french way(??).

[dave]

perfect day direct isn't much difference french or non-french, certainly no change in grade. I assumed its graded for french start, this to me is the obvious way to do it - its a route start afterall.

[Ru]

It's a route start but graded as a boulder problem, and one that's not in Bas Cuvier, i.e. pull on.

[Nigel]

The layaway has three possible holds, the one I used is more of an side/under crimp, kind of the middle one rather than the highest one (nearest to the jug) crimp lft hand, lft foot in the on the large hold low down nr the Arete, smear rt foot v close to your rt hand, once you get used to that possition, the move is really wierd, you pull on, once tight againt the wall, launch lft foot away from the big hold, (your facing rt) you almost one arm the crimp whilst mid launch pulling hard on the layaway your foot pops from the smear at the same time as your rt hand leaves the layaway, you catch the jug facing Lft, long discription of what is a rather complex dyno.
Someone should try the double roof Underneath Waggy, wanted this to be the start to the route but found it to intimidating, also tryed the pocketed wall further lft, (possibly wall lft of English Voodoo)
Really missed the grit, back next year to witness the fitness

Repeated this today (i.e. direct pull-on start to Business as Usual). Not like Pat describes above though (!!!!!), I bouled over with my left. Brilliant move, I would rate it about 7b+ for the whole kit and kaboodle including topping out direct, or maybe 7b just for the first move. Cofe and Kim repeated the move so they can pontificate on this also. There was an opinion at the crag that it was a first ascent as Pat hadn't toppped out or something (?), but as far as I can understand from what Pat has written he did it first so I won't give a name.

This circuit is excellent.

[Kim]

Nige did Business as Usual without the jump start today, direct start, direct finish, no aretes, etc, etc. Quality problem. We found a tiny nubbin foothold for right foot, which was the key to doing the move to the jug. Left hand on crimp, right on undercut, right foot on nubbin, pull on, left foot onto obvious foothold, snatch for jug with left hand, match quickly to hold the swing. 7b+/c was muted, but as me and Cofe discovered topping out may still be the stopper for many.... Effort Nige.

Was the first time I'd been to Gardoms South since Bonjoy reported his findings, and it really is a quality circuit, enhanced by today's excellent weather, with the trees there taking the buffeting out of the wind!

[Kim]

 

How did you sneak that in?!

I must type slowly.

[cofe]

He's a BEEEAAASSSSSSTTTTTTTTTTT.



a fine move. the top being a little difficult to justify with impending font trip/lack of testicles.

[mark]

the top being a little difficult to justify with impending font trip/lack of testicles.

Impending lack of testicles? Harsh. Are you going to be fitted with neuticles?

[dave]

good effort nige but you really must widen your outfit repertoire.

[Idol eyes]

Course I fucking toped out, its a direct start to an old E4....

[Idol eyes]

By the way well done, Its fucking "ard". E 7A i thought!!!

[Bonjoy]

 Added another problem to this mighty circuit on Saturday. Somewhat eliminate, but very logical and uncontrived as eliminates go. Basically it climbs Rob Smith's fine prob Dirty Business without the big edges out right on Business As Usual.
 For quality of climbing it's one of the best new things i've done (assuming no retro-claimers pop up) and i'm going to stick my neck out and give it a name and grade - Plan D 7b+ from standing, 7c from sitting.

Cheers to Cofe for the pic from a few weeks back. And cheers to Adam for the idea.

[Stubbs]

Nice pic, but who is spotting you? Their arms look like twiglets! I assume it's an effect of the camera....

[Bonjoy]

Twiglet limbs Leyland (Kim)

[Johnny Brown]

Effort word. As the grades seem rather lowly I assume there was some 'trick' beta found? Please share...

[cofe]

kim's arms do actually look like twiglets.

nice one yooooot.

[Bonjoy]

 From that position with left hand on chest height pinch, RF on edge near arete, RH on high pinch, LF heel hooking round corner - gingerly slide LF to good notch in arete, stand up without barndooring (thumbs doing a lot of work), adjust balance so RH takes most of weight as gaston pinch, crossover boule for break with LH. Very knacky.

[Johnny Brown]

WOW! Sounds tricky. Technical aretes may not be my forte, but the time I've spent on this prob suggest it'll be mighty hard at 7b+. Pity the fool:

[Bonjoy]

If I'm honest I'd have to say it's probably 7c standing and harder 7c sitting, but the extra grade always encourages people to do the extra few moves which really add to the problem. It'd be good to get a second opinion on the numbers before it goes in the BMC book, assuming it's allowed in.

[Kim]

I assume it's an effect of the camera....

Absolutely, Cofe's still learning. I actually have massive arms. 

[Stubbs]

Sorry Kim, I meant massive muscly twiglets obviously   

[dobbin]

I suspect either a trick or that its harder than 7b+. Feels fully improbable. Thought I was going to do it until it transpired I'd actually done only the easiest move. Quite keen to go back though if thats any sort of indicator of quality (warning : I like rubicon)

[Somebody's Fool]

Effort Jon.

From what I remember, my good self and the manliest man in Britain were getting close to this by jumping right-handed at the break from a move or two in.  It felt a goer like this, I think the problem was it's highly likely you'd brain yourself on the photographer/tree if you fell off too flamboyantly.

Obviously the spotter wasn't daydreaming about Carnaby Street, we might have stood a better chance.

[cowboyhat]

I can unfold my arms in under five seconds.

[Johnny Brown]

More action here yesterday. Repeated Plan D from standing and sitting, quite easily much to my surprise. I think 7b+ is fair, I suspect having a pad on the tree made a difference, it still bit me a couple of times though. Eschewed jon's wierd sequence and just popped with right hand. Also did Idol's BAU start, though again not by his daft sequence. Again, easy 7b+?

Also fulfilled Old Mother Kershaw's predictions with an ascent of the right arete of this (Business as usual) block, to give Forward-Thinking Sound Engineer. 7a+ or possibly less? The crack is out, obviously, good sitter still to do. Perhaps done before as top holds looked to have been cleaned.