[Jim]

get yourself down to the peak sometime. me or worm will put you up

[squeek]

Picnic Sarcastic simply must get done 

Have you got a good sequence?  It made a lot of difference to me.

[Houdini]

The Stung.  I hate it so much now that I just have to do it.  Piece of shit.  (Spit!)

[moose]

Picnic Sarcastic simply must get done 

Have you got a good sequence?  It made a lot of difference to me.

Spill the beans re 'stone knowledge / recommendations..... please.  I keep intending a first visit but have always been put off by the strong suspicion that it would be too disspiriting an experience for words.... even with top beta.  Is there frankly any point in going to t'Stone if you're a non-local non-beast?  I manage the odd V7ish on grit but generally on the thin crimpy stuff (often with a great deal of foot-faffing).  A distinct lack of basic brawn is the problem: power, dynamism and locking-off being pretty much alien concepts (1-3-4 campusing!).  Still, a project there is probably exactly what I need physically... just would involve a great deal of long, miserable drives back.

[Bonjoy]

For this winter I don't have any grand ambitions in terms of hard problems. Am never much into projecting stuff anyway. But do have a bunch of not too tricky things i'm keen to mop up and some broader ideas about places to go and things to do.
 Probs to go do include: Jackelope, Spare Rib, Pogles Wood, David, Sole Power (will after find new sequence after dislocating hip on healhook sequence in spring).
 Ideas: Get out on the crags with a crew and make up some quality highball circuits, get round to getting to the Churnet, various new probs the locations of which I'll keep to myself for now and a couple of new routes to do on the grit.

[squeek]

Spill the beans re 'stone knowledge / recommendations..... please.  I keep intending a first visit but have always been put off by the strong suspicion that it would be too disspiriting an experience for words.... even with top beta.  Is there frankly any point in going to t'Stone if you're a non-local non-beast?  I manage the odd V7ish on grit but generally on the thin crimpy stuff (often with a great deal of foot-faffing). 

Well, there are a lot of people on here that will know more about the stone than me, but I climb a similar grade to you and really like the bowderstone.  Although I climb quite a lot of steep problems inside so am used to it.  You need a bit of power as it's steep, but some problems don't involve large powerful, moves such as picnic sarcastic, although Inaudible Vaudeville and Impropa Opera are two that do.  There's enough easier stuff to adequately warm up on, even if it's just doing the traversing on the right hand side of the ladder face and doing The Rib. 

Picnic sarcastic is quite a good one to do if you're climbing V7 at a push because even if you don't do it you should come close because it's just sustained.  Trick for me was near the top when you get the pinch with your right hand (make sure you get your thumb on), you need to put your left heel on a hold far out on your left (it's kind of a scoop) to rock up and the finishing jug. 
Once you get the rigth sequence the sitting start isn't too hard to add on.

Slapstick has a little bit of a trick that makes it easier for me, when you do the first move to get the right hand hold, before rocking up to the slapstick hold, put your little finger on a little dimple instead of next to your other 3 fingers, this way you can pinch it better and it stops your hand from coming off.

Power pinch was easier for me after taping my finger up so it didn't rip going for the final pocket.  You need a bit of body tension to keep your right foot on the smear whilst getting the first pinch (and maybe second can't remmeber exact sequence).

Impropa Opera: I found the first move (big move up to the V hold) hard and although I stuck it a few times, couldn't repeat it every go, because it was quite dependant on how my fingers fell on the hold.  I didn't try going out right to the crimp (hold X on lakesbloc topo).

Ears of Perception seemed quite doable and really good, although you need a spotter for this really because the footjams seemed a lot better than the hand holds.

There's the crack, and the crack direct etc which are a tad easier, although to my shame I haven't actually done these yet.

It's worth having, although not necessary, a few mats and a spotter because the problems cover quite a bit of ground and it can feel a little worrying putting heel hooks in for the finishing moves.

[moose]

Much obliged Squeak - lots of useful sounding stuff (unless it's all lies... must try to recall whether I have given you any reason to hate me!).  Despite my utter weakness I am generally okay at roofs and steepness (forced to be by the Sunderland Wall) - I just have to use lots of foot-faffery and pilates honed body tension.  So unless all the problems require cutting loose and dynamically campusing there is enough hope to merit a few visits.

[Stubbs]

The more you use your feet at the stone the easier it is - there are at least three drop knees that can be employed on picnic sarcastic, and for me the best beta i found on power pinch involved starting with a drop knee one way to get the first pinch, then turning it over for the next move.

The crack problems are less steep, i found the crack itself an absolute nightmare, and felt it harder than the direct version.  The superdirect is more about finger strength as there is a pretty small crimp about half way up.

All in all a great venue which will definitely get you coming back for more - i climbed there for about 8 hours on my first day there because i couldn't get enough.

[Jim]

stone rules - V10's are cheating.

I took the fall on my back on ears (ie hands slipping and feet staying in) it was quite painfull but I didn't let it show cos I'm hard.

I have yet to do a single problem on the stone despite being very close on a lot of them

Bonjoy - I have sequence photo shoot for sole power somewhere if your after beta. some of them were posted ages ago in the bouldering pics thread I think. If you want any knowledge give us a shout

[Rice Boy]

Probs to go do include: Jackelope, Spare Rib, Pogles Wood, David, Sole Power (will after find new sequence after dislocating hip on healhook sequence in spring).
 

That's a top list. When's Pogles Wood best climbed, most photos make it (all of Gardoms) out to be luminous all year.

[Stubbs]

stone rules - V10's are cheating.

Shit, that invalidates half my sends there. 

[Jim]

and all of bungles. your not alone

[Bonjoy]

Bonjoy - I have sequence photo shoot for sole power somewhere if your after beta. some of them were posted ages ago in the bouldering pics thread I think. If you want any knowledge give us a shout

Basically I need a sequence which doesn't use the left foot healhook. Sadly this is by far the easiest way of doing it, but as i'm still not fully recovered from spring I daren't risk the healhook again.

[Jim]

can't see any other way of doing it to be honest unless your a mutant on arete pinches and can one arm off it

[Rice Boy]

  Jim, had good cop bad cop down the pumphouse yesterday evening luckily for me good cop recognised me (flattered,  ) and won over.

May be down on Thursday after 5.30.

Back on topic, not quite the same kudos but couldn't you give the right side of Soul Power a go?

[Jim]

I maybe keen for the pump house, still not been - let me know. I'm working till half 6 but may go straight from work.
Training has begun tho. bench pressing last night.... still injured from it tho 

[unclesomebody]

stone rules - V10's are cheating.

I took the fall on my back on ears (ie hands slipping and feet staying in) it was quite painfull but I didn't let it show cos I'm hard.

I have yet to do a single problem on the stone despite being very close on a lot of them

Is being strong cheating aswell Jim? I knew there was a reason you'd stopped training... 

Also, the use of feet is totally over rated on Ears. It's possible to campus it which is both safe and makes you feel like a man (a man with no climbing technique)

[Stubbs]

Also, the use of feet is totally over rated on Ears. It's possible to campus it which is both safe and makes you feel like a man (a man with no climbing technique)

Campus the moves from the holds at the back of the roof to the lip? I would like to see that.

[Falling Down]

fuck the lists, bring on the winter!
grit conditions, real fires, ale, not sweating all the time, more bhp out the car, font trips etc etc..
can't wait

Amen to that Jim... driving back from a crag somewhere, tips sore ... listening to the footy results coming in on 5-Live before stopping for a pint somewhere.

[Mike Tyson]

How do folks. Had the bleeding internet cut off at home for ages so aint been on. Now I've gotta feck off for a meal so will be back on later to discuss st'yan tactics, just had a good 4-5 hour session down there. PERFECTION!!!!!

[a dense loner]

Training has begun tho. bench pressing last night.... still injured from it tho 

you call that bench pressing? outrageous, throat pressing more like

[Johnny Brown]

Basically I need a sequence which doesn't use the left foot healhook (sic). Sadly this is by far the easiest way of doing it, but as i'm still not fully recovered from spring I daren't risk the healhook (sic) again.

You can just use your toe on the same hold, though was it your hip that was the problem?

[Mike Tyson]

Finally got back on the computer!

Had 2 contrasting sesions on the cobble this weekend. Awesome on Friday, getting the furthest up Power pinch in ages.

Went down tonight and it was a bit damp and muggy. Totally powered out on a pointless V6  There was also the most unfriendly people climbing too. One dude was ok but the other 2 hardly spoke and there was a strange atmosphere, I was most unsettled!!!! Still, they aint local so wont probably bump into them again!

OK back to talking st'yan tactics. Its not the easiest place to climb, with most stuff being hard and the easy stuff being polished therefore appearing hard. There's so much different beta for every problem as well so it can get mighty confusing. I reckon with picnic its all about the left foot. When your right is on the highest good flatty, and your moving out left to the hold with a chunk missing on the lip, you have to have your left foot on the highest rail on a small spike. It holds your foot on and stops the swing. Then pop your right foot onto a V-shaped hold and take your left off. This allows you to get the sidepull with your right hand, the higher the better. Then left back on the same rail and drop your knee then suck it all in and go for the jug.

Its that easy, if only I could frigging do it.

V10's are cheating and naughty, so Tubbs next time without!!! I remember meeting you there and you were fairly happy with your visit. It is a class place, but I'm a tad biased.

The crack problems are ace if you like filling your pants on the top moves like me. The crack direct is top and super direct is good too. There be loads of eliminates though.

Jim I reckon once I'm paid this month I'll be questing to the grit. What days off do you have fellla?

[Mike Tyson]

Stubbs excuse my slip of calling you Tubbs, I'm tired.......

Have a bit of waddage.

[Bonjoy]

Basically I need a sequence which doesn't use the left foot healhook (sic). Sadly this is by far the easiest way of doing it, but as i'm still not fully recovered from spring I daren't risk the healhook (sic) again.

You can just use your toe on the same hold, though was it your hip that was the problem?

I don't really pull on the heel so much as hang with a straight leg off it. I'm fairly sure I couldn't achieve the same off a toe.
 It's the hip joint, high heelhooks a la Brad Pit seems to agravate it.

 The spelling was obviously a subliminal message to myself.