[Nibile]

my friends,
hopefully next weekend the ill begin the assault to one of the ticks.
"il signore degli anelli" ceriola.

reset your year calendars so you all can take note of how many years ill take to do it.

[moose]

At the risk of rendering this thread hideously touchy-feely (rocktalk group-huggathon style), I had my first ever Bowderstone session on saturday.  Would just like to say thanks to all of those (Squeek etc) who contributed beta and encouragement.  I had an absolutely fantastic time and barring natural disasters will be there again next saturday (I'll be the one falling off the same move on Picnic Sarcastic for 4 solid hours... again). 

Only downer was realising how much time I have wasted by not daring to go.  Daft really, the most fun way to get strong enough to climb there is obviously to try and fail.  Bugger the embarassment, petrol costs, and possible emotional cost of lengthy unmitigated failure!  Just all of a shock to the grit-honed system though, each bloody hold was a voyage of discovery: open-handed? spread-fingered? pinch it? crimp it?  Hard to figure out when you're hitting it at a rate of knots and knackered from climbing up to its meretricious delights.   One of the few locations I have fervantly hoped for some other climbers to turn up at... If only to keep an eye on the creepy old fella who lurked about rubbing his shiny trousers and muttering "g'on do it again, do it again..." in the kind of hoarse, fervid whisper that gets windows smashed by News of the World readers. 

Just one question to stop me from wasting too much of my next session.  On (what I hope was) the Picnic Saracastic crux: that long LH move to the high, far-left hold (before the RH-to-side-pull move), how do most people position their body?  Facing left to rock forward into the hold, or, facing more to the right and reaching back for the hold more in an egyptian stylee?  Best candidate left foothold for the rocking-forward-facing-left approach appeared to be a high slanting crimp (the starting RH hold on Inaudible Vaudeville? - is that the "rail" you refer to Golt?).  Felt bloody cramped though for someone my height, so lanky-twat beta preferred.  I did experiment with a whole crapucopia of footholds but none of them felt quite right and I am wary of judgements arrived at whilst munted from the "whittling"  required to get to that point... (too much time spent warming-up and pissing about on competing delights).

Note to self....and other potential first-timers: do not "warm-down" in the deserted dusk on any of The Crack problems.....  More bulging, greasey, hideous slipperyness than the Miss Steroid Abuse trophy.  The desperate, pumped-out, lonely terror of that top-out lingered all the long way home... fantastic stuff.

[Mike Tyson]

Good effort dude!!!!

Glad you finally made it the cobble, it is pretty ace aint it?!!!

Were you there on Friday at all? Dont worry about failing on Picnic, as I've mentioned on here before, 2 years I've been trying it!!!

Your right with thinking the start hold to Inaudible was the rail I was talking about, I'm just under 6ft, and it makes all the difference to me. If your defo coming back on Sautrday I can meet you there. I'm working til 6 though. Can be down there for 6.15 though!! I love that road!

I'm well chuffed you haven't been put off by the steep bits and the polished bits, it really is world class mate.

Waddage awarded for you good sir 

[andy_e]

Yay!

Been in Leeds for three days now and I'm steadily ticking some of the more easy/mid-grade problems off the list, last night I did Otley Wall (nice and delicate) and Forked Lighting Crack (hmmm...)

 

[moose]

Cheers Golt, re Picnic Sarcastic it looks as though I was on the right sequence... just too tired to execute it (next time I will look out for the spike on the foothold).  On a related note, presumably for the easier, cheaty, "natural" version of Inaudible you use that foothold for your RH, the good hold on the LH side of the Bowderiser crack for the LH, wedge LF inside the crack, and slap up high with the LH to the (very) high jug?  I had a quick go at this and it almost felt more likely to slap with the RH over to a slightly lower (but still bloody high) jug just to the RHS.  Again, working out sequences when exhausted from the "warm-up" problems: not a sensible idea.

I am afraid I probably won't see you on saturday... though don't fear that it's because I don't want to meet you or am dismayed by the polish (hell... I have a soft spot for Ilkley and thats like climbing a chipped piece of teflon).  But, as I live in Durham (almost 2 hours away) and need a decent meal after a hard day's cranking I tend to arrive at crags early and leave early. We may meet, but as 6.15pm is probably the latest I will be there, it will be in passing.  Dependent on when my brain sends out that strange, sudden, and utterly unignorable "you are spent" signal.  That primal urge, plugged directly into the limbic system, that takes you from tiredly but contentedly pottering, to driving food-fixated and hell-for-leather from the carpark, within the space of 5 minutes without any conscious decision being made.

[unclesomebody]

looks like there may be quite a crowd on saturday if the weathers good and everyone goes! The more (mats) the merrier! Perhaps someone could show Jim the beta for Picnic... 

[Blunk]

my friends,
hopefully next weekend the ill begin the assault to one of the ticks.
"il signore degli anelli" ceriola.

reset your year calendars so you all can take note of how many years ill take to do it.

Go on Nibile, go on!   

[Mike Tyson]

Moose, I was at the St'yan briefly this afternoon. Conditions were good but the GF wasn't feeling to good. Thats the problem with taking a pregnant lady to sit on the floor in the cold.

Anyhow got a snippet of a failed attempt but you can see how using the rail for your left keeps you on when going for the far hold.

It was shot on my mobile so the quality goes shite if you watch it full screen.

looks like there may be quite a crowd on saturday if the weathers good and everyone goes! The more (mats) the merrier! Perhaps someone could show Jim the beta for Picnic... 

Jim, here's how not to do Picnic!!!!!

[moose]

Cheers (again) for the beta. Video guidance: that's just above and beyond the call of duty  The possibilities of a "new" venue have unleashed a wave of childish excitement in me (I am 30 years old... and nominally an academic).  Symptons include feverishly annotating my lakesbloc topo with beta and sequences for all of the classics, including those that, unless I am involved in a genetic accident with David Graham, I don't have a hope of doing.  Not sure certain whether this is a good thing really as I suspect I am quite obsessive enough already: my 6.5 hours of solid cranking at the 'Stone (largely on Picnic) on saturday, was followed on sunday by falling from the same two moves at Kyloe-In for another 6 hours!  Currently feel as though someone has been battering my ribcage and shoulders with a plank.  Still, Sunderland Wall on wednesday night, a few hours there will cure what ails me!

Re saturday... bouldering in the presence of others.... not sure how I'll cope with that.  Still, anyone who'll be there: the use of my Dropzone is yours for the asking.  Don't be put off by my seemingly silent, brooding, shy exterior.  Once you get to know me you'll find that I am caustic, selfish and jealous of those with more youth, talent and luck (i.e. everyone except Christopher Reeves and that kid who had to live in a bubble).

[Mike Tyson]

No problems fella. I had promised myself a rest from it as I'm getting blinkered on it. But conditions were good, and I couldn't resist!!

I know what you mean about kiddy like excitement, I'm off to look at something tonight, but it will no doubt be gash. But still, its always exciting!

[squeek]

Jim, here's how not to do Picnic!!!!!

You were about to do it!  Why did you just stop and drop off instead of trying to get the next hold? 

[Control freak]

The only project I'll have on the go this winter is topping up my tan 

Im with you on that (tho after Thailand its looking pretty fly) - and also trying to turn left (or anyway for that matter) on my big stick

 

[SA Chris]

Are you goofy or regular Nick? Lefts are on my winter ticklist too (although conditions will be a bit different here).

Got 3 weeks in South Africa before winter really sets in though. I am hopefully shopping for a smaller board out there.

[Mike Tyson]

Jim, here's how not to do Picnic!!!!!

You were about to do it!  Why did you just stop and drop off instead of trying to get the next hold? 

Dude. This is the story of my life on Picnic. Tried so much I'm getting fed up!! It took me a year of trying to progress from that move I dropped off on. to the next hol! Been giving myself some time off it to be honest. Tried tonight, got to the same place.... AGAIN! Was surprsied to see Mr Dave Macleod there tonight. First time I've met him, thoroughly nice chap.

[Nibile]

my friends,
hopefully next weekend the ill begin the assault to one of the ticks.
"il signore degli anelli" ceriola.

reset your year calendars so you all can take note of how many years ill take to do it.

Go on Nibile, go on!   

due to warm/wet conditions, i was forced to change my destination, so, the assault is postponed.
anyway, in the last three weeks i trained quite seriously, and was feeling ok.
now, after only two days of bouldering on real rock, i am completely smashed, today i can barely walk.
feels good.

[Blunk]

Go on Nibile, go on!   

due to warm/wet conditions, i was forced to change my destination, so, the assault is postponed.
anyway, in the last three weeks i trained quite seriously, and was feeling ok.
now, after only two days of bouldering on real rock, i am completely smashed, today i can barely walk.
feels good.

Weird the difference real rock makes isn't it? I had the opposite effect, the past two weeks my elbows were sore so I did no training, yesterday climbed and today everything but elbows hurts!

[Nibile]

the starting hold of one of the ticks...


the move


its said to be a short mans move.
itd better be.

[Houdini]

Lovely starting holds Nibs, the hold you go for looks like a bag of wank, mind. 

[Mike Tyson]

Well I'll be trying to finish 3 things at the stone.

Picnic Sarcastic simply must get done 
Power Pinch the original way, done the easier version.
Improper Opera any way!!

Had a chuckle to myself and had a play on Special Cases. Managed to do a move and nearly did two!!! 

I would also like to maybe try climbing somewhere else apart from the Bowderstone!!!!!!!

Well, managed to do one thing on my wishlist so far. Just had an entertaining weekend in the Peak, and managed to deal with an old nemesis and surprise myself. Clawed my way up Banana Figer Direct and then blasted through Banana Reverse which I was fair chuffed with. A thankyou to Nick, Andy and Luis (I think that was thier names) who gave good beta and encouragement plus a good spot!!! Went to Curbar today and got my closest on Trackside and Guerilla Warfare so they'll go next time, I'm sure.

With regards to Powerpinch, some local strong man pulled a sizeable chunk of the pinch used on the original way off recently, so better get that done before it all comes away!!!!!

[moose]

How much shin-flesh did you lose on banana-finger direct!? That and the normal BF are possibly the two most unpleasant "classics" I have ever climbed.  Is it the second side-pull above the start holds that has broken? The one you get with your LH before the hideous pocket? 

[Nibile]

a very good friens of mine broke an ankle falling from bf direct, the first day.
broke a pebble, missed the (small) s7 pad and hit the flat rock.
welcome to the peak.

[Mike Tyson]

No shin flesh gone, but a good graze and lump on my knee!! Felt really good and I was suprised to get the reverse as well.

[BenF]

How much shin-flesh did you lose on banana-finger direct!? That and the normal BF are possibly the two most unpleasant "classics" I have ever climbed. 

Word to that (although I could start another Gorilla Warfare debate whilst we're on the subject of crap classics).  However, I do really like the reverse version of Banana Finger.  The move across from the arete is lovely. 

[Mike Tyson]

Agreed, the move over from the arete is most pleaseant. GF is not a crap classic, its very frustrating!! Got on it yesterday and got to the holds below the move to the sloper. Furthest I had got before! Then got nowhere near again  Still, there's always next time I visit.

[SA Chris]

. GF

Gorilla Finger? That's quite a linkup?