[fatdoc]

StuM

yr tick list is sooo nearly to same as mine...

no doubt are paths will cross in the months to come..

not sure about sunday weather wise - it's lashin it down at the mo   but i'll be out if at all possible !!!

[squeek]

Not sure I posted mine, but it's the same as last years pretty much.

Not sure, it's on this page!  Although that is a cut down version off the top of my head.

[Stubbs]

To be honest I've not been out in very good conditions yet.  Also did a V7 arete at Caley near roof of the world, that I wouldn't mind trying from sit start at V9.

Pedestal Arete?  I think V7 for the stand up is a bit of a holiday grade, just one hard move innit?  Quality problem though, I only did it a couple of weeks ago and am up for the sit start too. If you're tall you can use a hell hook round to the right apparently.

Agree with you on underhand, nice problem, am struggling to find a good sequence though.

[squeek]

Might be pedastal arete, it's on a boulder leaning against the wall.  The first move is quite hard, sidepull pinch with left hand, poorish seam for right with a quite vicious pebble that your index finger goes on.  Up to a good flat hold with left hand, high right heel hook, then a cross over move to a good ear with your right hand.  Found the first move and the cross over move pretty tricky, but only took me two attempts so wouldn't be surprised if it was easier.  Although pulling on with the pebble is quite hard.  Doesn't look like you have to be that tall to start on the heal hook, just start further round the arete, guppy the arete with left then up to vicious pebble/seam for right.  In the yorkshire graded list I've got, it's Font 7c without heal hook, 7b+ with.

Sequence for Underhand that we were trying: 
Start at back right hand on big block, feet on slab.
left hand into undercut above good block your right hand is on.
Lean out Right hand into the crimp in roof.
Left foot heal/toe at top of starting slab and against roof.
Lean out and get second pocket which is the best one, using first as intermediate if necessary.
Right heel hook on arete next to your right hand.  It's tricky to place it well, sometimes it feels good, sometimes it comes straight off.  if you look at the arete there are a few pebbles, I'm presuming sometimes I get a bit of pull off these and sometimes I don't.  Left foot can go against a little crimp out left in the roof to steady yourself.
Right hand to a wide pinch on the bottom of the arete, then again to the crimp above the pinch.
If you're flexible you can now put your heal underneath your right hand, where your fingers where on the pinch.
Get the good bit of the break where it is a slot with right, and then reach for big jugs and end of arete.

Apparently when you have the sloping pinch and pocket, you can get the other pocket with your left hand, that points away from the arete, it's the third pocket.  Then spin round and double toe hook the big jugs, before coming into the good slot, and getting jug with your hands.

Hope this helps.

[Nibile]

i still havent bouldered out of home turf, so im pretty pissed.
perhaps this weekend, who knows.

project in sassofortino is hard, so no wonder i havent ticked it.
yet.

it wasnt in the ticklist, but there was one problem in città dei sassi i was dreaming about since last summer, and i did it. unluckily ive been so stupid not to include it in the list.
damn.

[Fiend]

StuM

yr tick list is sooo nearly the least imaginative Peak ticklist ever...

 

Errr, mine is going okay, failed on a couple of routes, succeeded on a few more (don't really like it being a "tick" list, it's an inspiration list really....and these routes have been better doing them than having done them), and managed to almost entirely avoid bouldering apart from a mileage session at Swastika Stones, and a Halloween night time bouldering session at The Roaches Lower Tier (did Stretch and Mantle which was cool).

[StuM]

StuM

yr tick list is sooo nearly the least imaginative Peak ticklist ever...

 

I missed some unimaginative stuff out... please do tell!

I did miss some stuff out, such as doing attitude inspector as a double handed dyno but i thought i'd get laughed at 

[Bonjoy]

 Given the difficulty of everything else on the list I'd say the inclusion of Ben's Wall was pretty imaginative!

[Rice Boy]

It's a knack 7c. You'll do it Stu! Go Stu Go!! 

[Duma]

This Winter:
Big Boss
Noir Desir
Arrache Coeur
Iceberg (the whole thing)
Trois Homme et a Coup Fin (that black circuit again)
La chose (ditto)
WSS
Stall SS
Gibbering Wreck
Deliverance
Brads Wall
Get to Churnet (I know...)

Did Iceberg during Octobers font trip and Brads Wall a couple of weeks ago.

Re the others:
Stall went without too much trouble at the beginning of Oct, but wrecked my skin so didn't try the sit down
WSS pebble hurts - will go though...
Haven't been on anything else off the list yet

But would like to add:
Zaff Szycolas (beaten by rain a fortnight ago but confident)
The Terrace - suprised myself by getting all the moves in a session, but will still take some serious work methinks

And remove:
Gibbering wreck - looks both hard and scary.
Stall SS - bit underwhelmed by the stand up, and nasty on the skin.

[Stubbs]

Gibbering Wreck looks quality! just need enough mats and rucksacs etc to pad it all out and cover up that little sign.  Went up to the lip four or five times in the summer and streeeeetched for the pocket, but could quite reach it static. Didn't fancy bouncing for it as we only had two pads.

I will be back!

[StuM]

Dude, i only put it there cos you said you'd give me the beta  

you up for sunday?

[Bonjoy]

 Someone needs to move that sign out of the way. I can't see any reason why anyone would object if it was pulled up and replanted out of harms way. Obviously it would be nice just to throw it in the nearest skip, but I guess that might cause conflict.
 For the grade I think Gibbering Wreck is pretty easy, but it is very scary due to an insecure horizontal move quite high off the deck. Have been out to the pocket a few times but have yet to commit to the move.

[fatdoc]

fiend:

how the hell did you adulterate that quote box????!

are you being a naughty little chappie and using moderator privilages to misquote me... you cad sir!

i dont reckon ben's wall (going up with right hand) is out the league of that tick list...

I've done just about all of it in days gone by.. back in the day i damn/ bugger/ next time/ shit/ arse.... arggh my skin  nearly stuck the bounce on my first session on it.

 I happen to have a slight aptitude for bouncing up and latching holds, to me the problem is ace/ very learnt movment and will be be rock hard for me but i think it's not unreasonable to waste skin on it in a few months time.

[Bonjoy]

 Did Great White last week, but have never got close with BW. Need to get back on it and find me this elusive knack.

[Rice Boy]

I find going with left hand, less powerful and easier and so did shorter (5 8in) friend. Tried with right a few times and ended up nutting the rock.

Considering borrowing a friend's full hockey kit and making a day of banana finger direct, ben's wall and another half dozen climbs in the peak that I've donated skin to.

[fatdoc]

if i ever do BW i doubt i'll ever get established in the 7c league, for instance i find GW really damn hard and i cant see me ever being strong enough for it.

on bW i (which I cant do, and may well never) find releasing with R easier to start the bounce, though catching the pod / pocket at that angle is infuriating to say the least. i used not the highest L foothold, but the one a little bit lower and closer in (and i'm a smerf height ) cos i was geting the height easily - just not slow enough if you know what i mean. it also takes 7 shades out of your L hand in the pocket as you spring up... still wanna do it though!!

[Jim]

the crux on bens wall is latching the hold. I've seen every man and his dog getting close (or what is percieved to be close) on this problem.
Nigela has some good beta on BW

[Rice Boy]

Encouraging. Held the hold a few times but foot kept popping ending in catastrophe. Trax rubber??

There is a climb at the Pumphouse which is effectively the same move just more in the 7a ball park, much better as well. Apart from the fact it's eliminate, dark at 3pm and illegal.

[fatdoc]

the crux on bens wall is latching the hold. I've seen every man and his dog getting close (or what is percieved to be close) on this problem.
Nigela has some good beta on BW

hence the *knack*....... i just .5 secs more of "latch time" and i've got the bugger!!

[Nibile]

got to try "il signore degli anelli", finally.
its very hard for me and ill be happy if i tick it. just going there and finding the foolish courage to try it, seems a good tick.
its a bit scary to get involved in a project that could really mean failure.

[Nibile]

here it goes, caminati style.


other strongman

[Blunk]

A beautiful line Nibs, what is it rated?

IMO it's always worth trying really compelling problems, no matter how hard they are. See what you can learn from it rather than worry about the possible disappointment of failure.

Would you avoid hanging out with a beautiful woman just because she is with another guy? Enjoy the experience.

[unclesomebody]

Would you avoid hanging out with a beautiful woman just because she is with another guy? Enjoy the experience.

In Italy? Yes.

[Blunk]

Not our man Nibile!